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Author Topic: LM317 in altoids can help  (Read 1625 times)

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Offline bagtagsell

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LM317 in altoids can help
« on: January 20, 2005, 09:15:57 PM »
I'm trying to make this

Quote
In an effort to keep this thread as long as "jb3 external power I"  Grin  I figured I'd share a few pics of my 5v regulator that I just finished tonight! This was the first circuit I've ever put together I think. Anyway, here are a few shots. Now whether or not I'd actually use this in the field, who knows, but it was fun just working on it. And thanks again to Fozzy for that Altoids tin idea!

as seen here http://www.taperssection.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=29230.105
 
but i don't know anything about working with a circuit board.  I bought all of the components.  But how do I rig it up.
i have this board http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=276-150
the board lay out is 2 holes  with copper traces connecting them, sever un connected holes, and then 3 holes connected.  In the center of the board is a row of single holes all connected that runs the entire length of the board. 
I want to run a 9.6 racing battery into this, but where do I solder the positive and negative wires coming from battery?  Does the 3 pins on the LM317 run parallel to short side or long side.  Which set of holes do i put it in?
Do all  resistors run parrallel to the short side or the long side?
I am running this out to a jb3 where would I wire the positive and negative out?
I need some major help.
MG200/210>m148>v3>MT2496
                       
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Offline leegeddy

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Re: LM317 in altoids can help
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2005, 10:20:55 PM »
this is the circuit that i use (less the input/output capacitors).

it really doesn't matter the location of the input and output solder joints, location of the IC and the resistors on your RS PCB, as long as circuit is made as shown below.

marc

« Last Edit: January 20, 2005, 10:23:45 PM by leegeddy »
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Offline bagtagsell

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Re: LM317 in altoids can help
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2005, 10:33:02 PM »
what does the open circle mean?  not connected?
are both resisors connected to the adju pin? 
« Last Edit: January 20, 2005, 10:42:39 PM by bagtagsell »
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*aspiring gear slut of the month year*
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Offline leegeddy

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Re: LM317 in altoids can help
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2005, 10:44:57 PM »
what does the open circle mean?  not connected?
are both resisors connected to the adju pin? 

correct. there's no current flow in an open circuit.

marc
"I'm a taper, he's a taper. Wouldn't you like to be a taper too?"
"Mics? What mics? This is my hat."

Offline bagtagsell

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Re: LM317 in altoids can help
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2005, 10:57:04 PM »
so... (Eliminating the caps)

soldered to pin 3 is the positive from my battery
soldered to pin 1 is the first tip of r2 and the second tip of r1
soldered to pin 2 is the first tip of r1 and the positive out to my jb3
soldered to the second tip of r2 is the ground from my battery and teh ground to my out for my jb3
MG200/210>m148>v3>MT2496
                       
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Offline leegeddy

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Re: LM317 in altoids can help
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2005, 11:08:31 PM »
so... (Eliminating the caps)

soldered to pin 3 is the positive from my battery
soldered to pin 1 is the first tip of r2 and the second tip of r1
soldered to pin 2 is the first tip of r1 and the positive out to my jb3
soldered to the second tip of r2 is the ground from my battery and teh ground to my out for my jb3

sounds about right.

an easier alternative is to:

1. Vin+ > pin 3
2. Vout+ > pin 2
3. R1 across pins 1 & 2
4. R2 across pin 1 and gnd.
5. Vin- an Vout- to gnd.

gnd. can basically be the "other end" of r2.

marc
« Last Edit: January 20, 2005, 11:22:14 PM by leegeddy »
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Offline bagtagsell

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Re: LM317 in altoids can help
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2005, 11:14:35 PM »
your a life saver.  +T for years to come
MG200/210>m148>v3>MT2496
                       
*aspiring gear slut of the month year*
"I am the gear slut goo goo g’joob g’goo goo g’joob"

Offline jdawg

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Re: LM317 in altoids can help
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2005, 11:35:15 PM »
Here ya go, I just put it together on a breadboard for you and snapped a picture. Let me know if this helps. Everything just comes down to the bottom of the board and out to ground.
R1 is the top resistor (green band) R2 below it. the smaller one is for the LED.


Offline bagtagsell

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Re: LM317 in altoids can help
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2005, 02:17:02 AM »
Hey I got it guys.  Thanks for all your help.  +t in 12.  I got it all wired up, with blue led, and on/off switch.  I learned sooo much doing this project.  It was frustrating, but with help i made it.  pics will be up tomorrow.
MG200/210>m148>v3>MT2496
                       
*aspiring gear slut of the month year*
"I am the gear slut goo goo g’joob g’goo goo g’joob"

Offline fozzy

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Re: LM317 in altoids can help
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2005, 10:56:28 AM »
Any ~5v 1.5+amp DC source is suitable.  Also 1amp current is suitable if the internals are not present. 
FT: AT853 hyper caps, I need white, have black pair

Rig:
MK 4V > KCY 250/5 Ig (KS 10I)  > VST62IUg > V2 > 722

Playback 1: Audiophile 2496 > coax > Benchmark DAC1 > AKG 701
Playback 2: Audiophile 2496 > coax > Benchmark DAC1 > Audioquest Diamondback XLR > PS Audio HCA2 > Kimber 4pr >B&W 600S3
Playback office: Generic Pci coax > Lucid DAC9624 > AKG K240

Offline jdawg

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Re: LM317 in altoids can help
« Reply #10 on: January 21, 2005, 12:00:25 PM »
Hey I got it guys.  Thanks for all your help.  +t in 12.  I got it all wired up, with blue led, and on/off switch.  I learned sooo much doing this project.  It was frustrating, but with help i made it.  pics will be up tomorrow.

Way to go! +T  I knew you could do it!    It's a nice feel of accomplishment isn't it?

-john

 

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