Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Recording Gear => Topic started by: kirk97132 on December 28, 2010, 06:08:57 PM
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Starting off a New thread since the old one is at 25. Link to Part 2:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=137231.360
So lets start the thread off right. Gearing up to run three DR-680's. Since the cascade function DOES NOT sync the clocks my thought is to get preamps that DO allow them to be synced to a SPDIF signal. If I feed the three decks a digital SPDIF signal that is synced then the decks will be synced too, right? I hope so. It will sure make it easier to mix down. It also will allow the use of all eight tracks on each deck. Has anyone run two or more 680's yet? Any feedback on syncing? Has anyone else tried this method of syncing the digital inputs? I am kinda miffed that tascam lead us to believe that the decks could be synced only to find out later they can't. I sent a pissed off letter to them but of course got no reply at all about that. Thanks for any input, Kirk
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This post doesn't relate to the S/PDIF syncing. I mostly want to just be notified about posts here, but also I hope to maybe get a post with a collection of KNOWN batteries that work on the DR-680 and have long operational times. It would be nice if we could get a bunch of battery links in one post for future reference. It's hell sifting through 25 pages of messages.
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I also bought the DR-680 with the idea of syncing multiple units to the master deck word clock. Definitely not with the idea of buying additional pre/ad's w/word clock and/or an external master clock to sync up decks. There are many other lower cost options for quality multitrack recording.
But... I do still love having one for my everyday recording needs.
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I posted in the old thread about mid-side recording with the 680. Anyone else doing that, want to chat about it, or should I go in the mics and setup room?
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:headphones:
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Matt, I dunno about any "cheaper" options that allow more than 8 tracks. And for me, I run preamps in front of this unit so it's no big deal especially with the SUSBPre2 out now.
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Just marking....carry on.
Happy New Year
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Quick update, it appears that having the spdif signals synced allows the decks to be synced. More later.............
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Well apparently B&H photo had the DR-680 offered with a free CSDR680 shoulder bag. I put it in my cart then wavered. I missed the deal! >:(
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Quick update, it appears that having the spdif signals synced allows the decks to be synced. More later.............
Ok, really just trying to mark the new thread, but....
Yes, I would imagine if you sent the same spdif signal to two 680's, they all then would be synced using the same clock as the spdif source. So that would effectively give you 14 channels (with the 2 digi channels on each deck repeated).
On my SD 722, you could connect it to a digi spdif input, but instead instruct it via the menu to actually record the analog inputs. it would record the analog inputs, but use the spdif signal for clocking. Wonder if there is a way to do this on the 680, or if not if it could be implemented with a future firmware?
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Quick update, it appears that having the spdif signals synced allows the decks to be synced. More later.............
Ok, really just trying to mark the new thread, but....
Yes, I would imagine if you sent the same spdif signal to two 680's, they all then would be synced using the same clock as the spdif source. So that would effectively give you 14 channels (with the 2 digi channels on each deck repeated).
On my SD 722, you could connect it to a digi spdif input, but instead instruct it via the menu to actually record the analog inputs. it would record the analog inputs, but use the spdif signal for clocking. Wonder if there is a way to do this on the 680, or if not if it could be implemented with a future firmware?
Actually used the SD USBPre2 as the second spdif source which accepts clocking from the first dr680 and then you get the full 16 channels without sacrificing anything ;D
I asked Tascam tech support about that external clocking but they were not very positive in there reply. I doubt if it will happen and I don't know if it is even possible with their software setup.
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Well apparently B&H photo had the DR-680 offered with a free CSDR680 shoulder bag. I put it in my cart then wavered. I missed the deal! >:(
I didn't. ;D But really, is there much use for the shoulder bag? I mean, you're not really gonna stealth with this deck and it's most likely going into a gear back with your other equipment.
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Had my first snafu last night with th DR680. I was running my V3 Digital in with a stereo pair and analoag into 1&2 and 3&4 with two other stereo pairs. I made sure that the "DIN MON" was set on the the "Function Screen". Everything looked good with levels etc. When I went to play back the files this morning I only had files for st12.wav & st34.wav, no st.wav file :( So basicly there was no file created for the V3 digital source.
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Had my first snafu last night with th DR680. I was running my V3 Digital in with a stereo pair and analoag into 1&2 and 3&4 with two other stereo pairs. I made sure that the "DIN MON" was set on the the "Function Screen". Everything looked good with levels etc. When I went to play back the files this morning I only had files for st12.wav & st34.wav, no st.wav file :( So basicly there was no file created for the V3 digital source.
Wouldn't you set it to DIN Stereo? I thought the DIN MON would be the RCA inputs.
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Had my first snafu last night with th DR680. I was running my V3 Digital in with a stereo pair and analoag into 1&2 and 3&4 with two other stereo pairs. I made sure that the "DIN MON" was set on the the "Function Screen". Everything looked good with levels etc. When I went to play back the files this morning I only had files for st12.wav & st34.wav, no st.wav file :( So basicly there was no file created for the V3 digital source.
Wouldn't you set it to DIN Stereo? I thought the DIN MON would be the RCA inputs.
The DIN MON is the setting used on the function button right above the rec trim button on the front of the unit. The DIN stereo is the setting you use in the recording screen when using the menu botton on the top of the unit, which was was set properly.
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Had my first snafu last night with th DR680. I was running my V3 Digital in with a stereo pair and analoag into 1&2 and 3&4 with two other stereo pairs. I made sure that the "DIN MON" was set on the the "Function Screen". Everything looked good with levels etc. When I went to play back the files this morning I only had files for st12.wav & st34.wav, no st.wav file :( So basicly there was no file created for the V3 digital source.
Wouldn't you set it to DIN Stereo? I thought the DIN MON would be the RCA inputs.
The DIN MON is the setting used on the function button right above the rec trim button on the front of the unit. The DIN stereo is the setting you use in the recording screen when using the menu botton on the top of the unit, which was was set properly.
ahh, OK. I may be confusing two different functions. I was thinking of the I/O function on the menu screen and choosing either the analog or digi in option. I believe this directs the signal to the RCA or the SPDIF inputs or outputs.
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Being outa town not near my gear, but, I seem to remember something funky about playback. I think I had to go into the menu and open the file or something like that. I was trying to do playback and listen with headphones. I can't recall what I did, but I had the same experience...I thought that the digi track was gone when I just hit play on the recorder. Hope that helps.
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Ive only read the first and third threads here, but I asked Doug at Oade about this model and he said it is basically the Tascam DR100 x 4.
That answered alot of my questions...
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So using the usbpre2 to send a digital signal to a second 680 while having it synced to the spdif output of the first deck gave a perfect sync between the two units AND allowed the use of all 8 tracks on both units. I used a Bm2p+ for the first decks spdif input. I am still really bummed that you cannot sync the clocks using the cascade function and I would swear that the deck was originally advertised that way. Anyone using 32GB cards in it yet?
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So using the usbpre2 to send a digital signal to a second 680 while having it synced to the spdif output of the first deck gave a perfect sync between the two units AND allowed the use of all 8 tracks on both units. I used a Bm2p+ for the first decks spdif input. I am still really bummed that you cannot sync the clocks using the cascade function and I would swear that the deck was originally advertised that way. Anyone using 32GB cards in it yet?
I forgot to post back when you had first mentioned it, but that is a very cool way of getting 16ch out of two 680's! Good to hear it works, too.
I'm using a 32gb card in my 680, been working fine. I had a supposedly 6x 16gb card (A-Data?) when I first got the 680, and it just wasn't working reliably (either had to be 4ch @24 or if 6+ channels needed to keep to 16bit). I got a 32gb card to replace that, almost positive it is a Kingston card. I'll have to check on the speed rating.
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Are you running your deck at 48 or 96? Wondering if it makes a difference
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Are you running your deck at 48 or 96? Wondering if it makes a difference
Good point, I'm sure it makes a difference as it gets to the data rate needed. I've been running 24/44 or 24/48, generally for 4 or 6 channels. I think though including the stereo mix channel the 680 can make, I've run 22/48 at 8ch before.
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Ive only read the first and third threads here, but I asked Doug at Oade about this model and he said it is basically the Tascam DR100 x 4.
That answered alot of my questions...
Isn't that generalizing a bit too much? Is there anything that is the same (except for the manufacturer)?
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Yeah, I was wondering that too. Really, the two units have completely different functionality and feature sets, so it makes no sense to say that the 680 is 4x a DR-100.
I took it to mean that the preamps and possibly A/D sections of the 680 are pretty much the same as the DR100. Only at the very least that would mean the 680 is 3x the DR100 not 4x, as the 680 only has 6ch of analog inputs, the other 2ch are digital input only, and the DR100 doesn't have digital inputs.
Even trying to say the preamp/AD are the same on the two units doesn't really make sense either, as the max input for the DR100 is +2dbu on the XLR input and +6dbV on the 1/8" line input, whereas the 680 can take a +24dbu signal. If the 680 can take that much hotter a signal, something is different about it compared to the DR100.
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The DR-680 has much lower noise also.... -127dBu compared to DR-100 -113dBu. Thats a big difference...
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I got the Sys Rom Error tonight and couldn't record. :(
^that can't be good.
1. Where is the cheapest place to get a new one?
2. Where do I send it to get fixed ???
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I got the Sys Rom Error tonight and couldn't record. :(
^that can't be good.
1. Where is the cheapest place to get a new one?
2. Where do I send it to get fixed ???
Chuck try powering down, swap out cards and try a restart....of course you probably did all that. That is one of the error codes where all they list is a "turn off then turn on, if it don't work then send it in for service". Still I'd try another card AND a format on that card too if you can then see what happens. Good Luck!
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I got the Sys Rom Error tonight and couldn't record. :(
^that can't be good.
1. Where is the cheapest place to get a new one?
2. Where do I send it to get fixed ???
Chuck try powering down, swap out cards and try a restart....of course you probably did all that. That is one of the error codes where all they list is a "turn off then turn on, if it don't work then send it in for service". Still I'd try another card AND a format on that card too if you can then see what happens. Good Luck!
those are the exact symptoms mine exhibited
as Kirk mentions, try re-powering and swap out cards
as I indicated in my PM... mine was under warranty, so I sent it back to Full Compass
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I got the Sys Rom Error tonight and couldn't record. :(
^that can't be good.
1. Where is the cheapest place to get a new one?
2. Where do I send it to get fixed ???
Chuck try powering down, swap out cards and try a restart....of course you probably did all that. That is one of the error codes where all they list is a "turn off then turn on, if it don't work then send it in for service". Still I'd try another card AND a format on that card too if you can then see what happens. Good Luck!
those are the exact symptoms mine exhibited
as Kirk mentions, try re-powering and swap out cards
as I indicated in my PM... mine was under warranty, so I sent it back to Full Compass
Yeah, I swapped cards and did a system restore and still not working. When it does power up without the error screen I can't get levels when I hit the record button. It's pumping out phantom power to the mics, but no levels. I bought it at Sound Professionals, so my next step is to contact them. Thanks guys, I'll report back when I hear something.
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Is there something that happened to cause this Sys Rom Error? Is there anything to watch out for to avoid this, or is it just a thing that happens sometimes?
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Had my first snafu last night with th DR680. I was running my V3 Digital in with a stereo pair and analoag into 1&2 and 3&4 with two other stereo pairs. I made sure that the "DIN MON" was set on the the "Function Screen". Everything looked good with levels etc. When I went to play back the files this morning I only had files for st12.wav & st34.wav, no st.wav file :( So basicly there was no file created for the V3 digital source.
Wouldn't you set it to DIN Stereo? I thought the DIN MON would be the RCA inputs.
The DIN MON is the setting used on the function button right above the rec trim button on the front of the unit. The DIN stereo is the setting you use in the recording screen when using the menu botton on the top of the unit, which was was set properly.
ahh, OK. I may be confusing two different functions. I was thinking of the I/O function on the menu screen and choosing either the analog or digi in option. I believe this directs the signal to the RCA or the SPDIF inputs or outputs.
If someone who does digi-in regularly would write up the best way to set up for that, I bet a number of us would be eternally grateful.
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Is there something that happened to cause this Sys Rom Error? Is there anything to watch out for to avoid this, or is it just a thing that happens sometimes?
on mine it meant the main board took a crap
I ended up getting a NEW unit after waiting 2 months
I was patient and let Full Compass deal with Teac
EDIT:
If someone who does digi-in regularly would write up the best way to set up for that, I bet a number of us would be eternally grateful.
the I/O setting on the MENU controls how you record the digital input
I have mine set for recording digi in on 7&8:
INPUT SEL : ANALOG
A. OUT SEL : DIRECT
D. OUT MODE : SPDIF
the DIN MON setting on the HOME/FUNC button will monitor your digital input while recording
also remember to check and see if the LR bullet is showing on the main screen while recording
it's along the bottom of the screen under the meters... 1 2 3 4 5 6 LR
did I forget anything?
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As you note, you can set up the 680 to record digitally on the "ST" channels (it's easier to me to think of these as channels 7 and 8 ), or you can record digitally to channels 5 and 6.
If you are recording to channels 7 & 8, I think you left out the most important part:
To record on 7/8, you need to go the the recording menu off the main menu, and set "ST REC" to "DIN", meaning digital input (as opposed to "MIX", for recording a mix of channels 1-6 on the 7/8 channels).
This is all you need to record digitally on 7/8. According to the manual, if set to "DIN" on "ST REC", on the I/O menu, it will not matter if you select "ANALOG" on INPUT SEL" or if you select "DIGITAL", either way, the 680 will record the analog channels on 5/6, since you have set it up in the REC menu to record the digital channels on 7/8.
I don't think the DIN MON settings or D OUT MODE have anything to do with whether you can record digitally. They will affect whether you can monitor your digi input channels on the headphone, or output the digi input to the spdif coax output (for a patcher, etc), but I don't think they affect whether you can actually record off the digital input.
For recording the digital input on channels 5/6, the "ST REC" setting on the recording menu must be set to "MIX" (sending the 1-6 mixed signal to 7/8), and then also set on the I/O menu the "INPUT SEL" to "DIGITAL".
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thanks Todd
I was on my way out and thought I forgot something
yes... the D OUT does not affect recording
but you have to have the DIN MON on to monitor what you are recording on 7&8
otherwise you have a mix level showing
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thanks Todd
I was on my way out and thought I forgot something
yes... the D OUT does not affect recording
but you have to have the DIN MON on to monitor what you are recording on 7&8
otherwise you have a mix level showing
Ah, interesting! I've only recorded digi-in on ch 5/6, so I've been using 7/8 as the mix channels. So if you set to record digi-in on 7/8, you'll actually record that, but if you don't set DIN MON correctly you'll be recording digi-in, but seeing the levels of the non-recorded mix channels? Weird!?!
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Yeah I'm not sure if it was this update or the one before it that forced you to reset the Din Mon each time you power up. I have to remind myself and have panicked when I saw excessive levels, even made adjustments before the DOH! moment and reset the view. I wish they would go back to the old style when it remains set. FWIW I just leave the deck set to record digi on 7&8 then I never have to reset it. Easy enough to turn off channels not being used for recording.
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Where is the cheapest place to get a new one?
A few places have it for new $809. Musiciansfrind has it used for $688, also.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/673541-REG/Tascam_DR_680_DR_680_8_Track_Portable_Field.html
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/navigation?q=tascam+dr+680&src=3WWRWXMG&ZYXSEM=0&orgid=100210
http://www.zzounds.com/item--TASDR680
Ebay has them for $809 as well. Factory refurbished for $799. Every now and then someone will put one up for $804.95
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=tascam+dr-680&_sacat=See-All-Categories
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Yeah I'd say B&H is the best place. No tax, free shipping, good return policy. Why buy on ebay just to save 10 bucks?
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Well, I talked to the service department at Teac. The recorder has a one year warranty on the parts, which still applies to my recorder. The labor warranty (90 days) has expired. I shipped it to Teac in Montebello, CA for repair. They say I should have it back in two weeks. I'd like to have it back for the two moe shows the first weekend in February in Denver.
I also called Chris at the Sound Professionals where I bought it. He said he may be able to help expedite the repair process for me as he has a good relationship with the Teac sales rep. I'll report back on how it goes with Teac repair.
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sounds good Chuck... hope they keep their word about 2 weeks
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sounds good Chuck... hope they keep their word about 2 weeks
Well, darby, thank you for telling me that your problem got put on the fast track after contacting the place where you bought yours. I wouldn't not have thought of that. Now, I've got my fingers crossed.
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Ive only read the first and third threads here, but I asked Doug at Oade about this model and he said it is basically the Tascam DR100 x 4.
That answered alot of my questions...
Isn't that generalizing a bit too much? Is there anything that is the same (except for the manufacturer)?
as others mentioned, of course it has more effects and features, but the preamp section is essentially the same as dr100.
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Ok...I know I've been threatening to join Team DR-680 for months, but just haven't gotten around to getting one. I'd like to be in the game by the time Further hits Denver in a few weeks.
What are you guys using for power on these things? I would assume that you are using some external power source.
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A 9v DVD battery is working for me.
edit to add:
...and congrats on making the decision to buy the recorder!
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A 9v DVD battery is working for me.
edit to add:
...and congrats on making the decision to buy the recorder!
Thanks. Figured that would work.
I just bought the PortaBrace case for it. I'm going to look like an ass if I show up to the section with a PortaBrace without a recorder! :P
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plus you can use a standard power cable that comes with the battery
unless you want to have a special cable made
A 9v DVD battery is working for me.
edit to add:
...and congrats on making the decision to buy the recorder!
Thanks. Figured that would work.
I just bought the PortaBrace case for it. I'm going to look like an ass if I show up to the section with a PortaBrace without a recorder! :P
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What are you guys using for power on these things? I would assume that you are using some external power source.
Anyone using a Tekkeon MP3450?
Todd, what 32gb card are you using?
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What are you guys using for power on these things? I would assume that you are using some external power source.
Anyone using a Tekkeon MP3450?
Todd, what 32gb card are you using?
I am along with the extended power pack... I had it on for about 4.5 hours the other night and only used 1 bar
and for 32 gb cards I use San Disk and Verbatim
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If been using the Tekkeon MP3450 with good luck. I've run it for 2 shows with 2 sets of mics both with phantom on and it still has
1/2 charge left. You probably could get 7-8 hours with 2 sets of mics with phantom on. I've charged it when it hits half way so far.
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I'm using a Kingston Class 4 32gb card. Been working fine at 24/48, haven't pushed into higher sampling rates. Oh, for anywhere from 2 channels to all 8.
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If been using the Tekkeon MP3450 with good luck. I've run it for 2 shows with 2 sets of mics both with phantom on and it still has
1/2 charge left. You probably could get 7-8 hours with 2 sets of mics with phantom on. I've charged it when it hits half way so far.
I've drained mine in a little less than 7 hours running 4 channels line and SPDIF in @ 24/48
that's why I bought the extended power pack
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What's the "Extended power pack"? Got a link?
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What's the "Extended power pack"? Got a link?
B&H
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/622827-REG/Tekkeon_MP3450_10_myPower_ALL_Plus_MP3450_10.html
here's what it looks like with both units together
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/public/6-Lt7_X3_tHIz3Ea077QlHZpmAcMl8XPqfTfT5cxC4UMaIHwEFyiTqurF85WXI0AVDw-cpZa9RWa_3YsOUPjjsTBJUoWAmEMds4rkQM22KjDFN_XhzL4y3ZrXFNy)
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Ah OK. Got it. I saw that but just clicked on the 99.00 one. Looks cool. On B&H there were couple reviews from people who the battery died on, but one was complaining about a recalled model. I think for my use with the 680 I won't need the extension battery. I wonder though, if you have the extension, and they are both connected, if one battery fails, not runs out of charge - but actually fails, could the other battery take over and save the day? That would be an awesome confidence booster out in the boonies somewhere.
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I've drained mine in a little less than 7 hours running 4 channels line and SPDIF in @ 24/48
2 channels line in & 2 spdif or 4 line in & 2 spdif?
When I read it, I was a little confused.
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I've drained mine in a little less than 7 hours running 4 channels line and SPDIF in @ 24/48
2 channels line in & 2 spdif or 4 line in & 2 spdif?
When I read it, I was a little confused.
4 channels total... sorry for the confusion
no phantom power either
EDIT:
I also was running the Tekkeon at 12V
I have since started to run it at 9V so that will help the battery life
plus using the Extended pack
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Ah OK. Got it. I saw that but just clicked on the 99.00 one. Looks cool. On B&H there were couple reviews from people who the battery died on, but one was complaining about a recalled model. I think for my use with the 680 I won't need the extension battery. I wonder though, if you have the extension, and they are both connected, if one battery fails, not runs out of charge - but actually fails, could the other battery take over and save the day? That would be an awesome confidence booster out in the boonies somewhere.
having the extended pack makes them work in tandem
if the main battery FAILS I would say you still would be hosed
but I honestly can't say that for sure though
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I just bought the PortaBrace case for it. I'm going to look like an ass if I show up to the section with a PortaBrace without a recorder! :P
maybe you could just ask that someone slip their 680 inside your sweet bag. ;D
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A question about SDHC cards and the DR-680:
The current list from Tascam of tested SDHC cards includes several 32GB cards from various vendors, so I know there's no blanket lockout of that capacity of card.
But when I tried a Ridata brand 32GB Class 10 card (not on the tested list) in the 680 today, I get the message "Invalid Card Change Card". That error message cannot be cleared, and the unit cannot be powered down while that message is displayed. I had to eject the card with the machine powered up, which doesn't seem to have harmed the card but isn't good practice in general.
The card works fine and fast when hooked up to my iMac either via the provided SDHC slot on the iMac or via an SDHC card reader. The DR-680 manual offers no advice for a work-around for this error message other than "Something might be wrong with the card. Change the card."
I tested it originally in the DR-680 with its factory formatting of FAT-32. After the initial problem I reformatted it as FAT-32 on the iMac. Same result, invalid card.
Any suggestions?
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Format the card in the 680.
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Format the card in the 680.
X2
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if one battery fails, not runs out of charge - but actually fails, could the other battery take over and save the day? That would be an awesome confidence booster out in the boonies somewhere.
Always keep AA batteries loaded when in the field. A nice feature of this deck is that if your external battery (/ AC power) fails for whatever reason (battery dies, cord gets disconnected, etc) the batteries take over seamlessly. No power down first, no loss of recording, no stopping of recording. This is your "fail safe" when in the field. Another benefit is that AA rechargeables will power at least two channels of phantom for over 2 hours, so you really don't have to worry if your main battery fails towards the end of a show.
-Matt
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Well, I talked to the service department at Teac. The recorder has a one year warranty on the parts, which still applies to my recorder. The labor warranty (90 days) has expired. I shipped it to Teac in Montebello, CA for repair. They say I should have it back in two weeks. I'd like to have it back for the two moe shows the first weekend in February in Denver.
I also called Chris at the Sound Professionals where I bought it. He said he may be able to help expedite the repair process for me as he has a good relationship with the Teac sales rep. I'll report back on how it goes with Teac repair.
Update on my DR-680 repair:
It arrived at TEAC repair in Montebello, CA on 01-19
I called yesterday (01-24) for a status update. The gal on the phone told me the tech was looking at it.
I called today 01-25 and was told that the main board was bad. The cost (labor) to fix was $120. She said they can have it shipped out by Friday 01-28. They ship via FedEx 3 day. So, I will have it back for the Denver moe shows. ;D The technician didn't say why the main board was bad. So far, that works for me. I'll call Friday to make sure it did ship. :) I'll just be happy to have it back.
I'll update again when the recorder is in my hands.
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Good to hear it can be fixed quickly and at not too great a cost.
Any word on whether your Platinum card purchase provides additional warranty time to cover this?
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Good to hear it can be fixed quickly and at not too great a cost.
Any word on whether your Platinum card purchase provides additional warranty time to cover this?
Thanks Todd.
I forgot about that.
I'll look into it.
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I just called them. My credit card extends the parts warranty (one year) to two years and the labor warranty (90 days) to 180 days. Both warranties are doubled.
So, they won't pay the labor for this repair. But, if it breaks again, within the two years the parts are still covered.
Oh well. I'm going to call on Friday to make sure it really ships and ask why the main board was bad. I think darby had the same issue with his.
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I just called them. My credit card extends the parts warranty (one year) to two years and the labor warranty (90 days) to 180 days. Both warranties are doubled.
So, they won't pay the labor for this repair. But, if it breaks again, within the two years the parts are still covered.
Oh well. I'm going to call on Friday to make sure it really ships and ask why the main board was bad. I think darby had the same issue with his.
they never told me why the main board took a crap
I got my unit replaced free of charge, but did wait 2 months after sending it in to my retailer (Full Compass) and letting them deal with Teac
I also had a bad AC transformer (wall wart) so with the 2 problems on the original unit, it made it look more like a LEMON
as far as warranty on the new unit, Full Compass said they had no idea and that would be up to Teac
glad to hear yours didn't take as long Chuck
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A question about SDHC cards and the DR-680:
The current list from Tascam of tested SDHC cards includes several 32GB cards from various vendors, so I know there's no blanket lockout of that capacity of card.
But when I tried a Ridata brand 32GB Class 10 card (not on the tested list) in the 680 today, I get the message "Invalid Card Change Card". That error message cannot be cleared, and the unit cannot be powered down while that message is displayed. I had to eject the card with the machine powered up, which doesn't seem to have harmed the card but isn't good practice in general.
The card works fine and fast when hooked up to my iMac either via the provided SDHC slot on the iMac or via an SDHC card reader. The DR-680 manual offers no advice for a work-around for this error message other than "Something might be wrong with the card. Change the card."
I tested it originally in the DR-680 with its factory formatting of FAT-32. After the initial problem I reformatted it as FAT-32 on the iMac. Same result, invalid card.
Any suggestions?
Hi Dude.
I have this same problem and after testing all possibilities i've noticy that the unit was defective. I return to B&H, and got a new one.
Sorry about my poor english.
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glad to hear yours didn't take as long Chuck
I guess we'll see. I don't have it back yet. :-\ I'm going to call TEAC tomorrow afternoon to make sure it really does ship back to me on Friday.
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Quick question. Is the Hi Gain a boost of the gain on the DR-680? Or is Hi neutral, and the lo gain is a -10db cut?
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Well nobody answered my question as to whether the Hi-gain setting is a boost or not. I posed the same question to Chris Johnson, the man who does the Busman mods on the DR-680. Here's what he had to say in case anyone is interested:
"Well the low gain is really a cut as it uses resistors like a pad but I feel that it should be left in low gain and only use high gain if needed. The noise floor in low gain is better. I look at it like this… If you need to turn the gain up past 20 in low gain then switch to high gain and use less gain to give the best noise floor and headroom.
I think that each person should do what makes them comfortable and gives them the best sound. I do not subscribe to the opinion of not running something through a couple extra resistors in because it “may give less circuit noise”, the difference is negligible in this case.
The stock unit has a much higher amount of noise in high gain than the low gain setting. The modified unit lowers the noise by -12db in high gain and -6db in low gain. The stock unit from my measurements has about 30db more noise in high gain at the 0 setting for gain.
Hopefully this clears the air a bit."
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Well nobody answered my question as to whether the Hi-gain setting is a boost or not. I posed the same question to Chris Johnson, the man who does the Busman mods on the DR-680. Here's what he had to say in case anyone is interested:
"Well the low gain is really a cut as it uses resistors like a pad but I feel that it should be left in low gain and only use high gain if needed. The noise floor in low gain is better. I look at it like this… If you need to turn the gain up past 20 in low gain then switch to high gain and use less gain to give the best noise floor and headroom.
I think that each person should do what makes them comfortable and gives them the best sound. I do not subscribe to the opinion of not running something through a couple extra resistors in because it “may give less circuit noise”, the difference is negligible in this case.
The stock unit has a much higher amount of noise in high gain than the low gain setting. The modified unit lowers the noise by -12db in high gain and -6db in low gain. The stock unit from my measurements has about 30db more noise in high gain at the 0 setting for gain.
Hopefully this clears the air a bit."
But if you look at http://www.avisoft.com/recordertests.htm and the column "Equivalent Input Noise (EIN) impedance: 150 ohm" they have a lower noise measurement (A-weighted) in high gain (-127dBu) than low gain (-112dBu)?
Can anyone more technical skilled explain?
For the interested... ::)
There was someone in here saying that dr-100 had the same preamps as dr-680. I asked Tascam about this and they said that they don't have the same preamps.
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I think that was Doug Oade that said the DR-680 is just a DR-100 X 8. Really Dough doesn't offer a mod for the 680, for whatever reason, and I think he just throwes crap like that out as an excuse not to expand his services.
As for that chart, man I don't know. I did pass it on the Chris Johnson to see how it may relate to his findings. I'll post when I get a response. But in my experience more gain always means more noise, so that chart doesn't make sense to me. Then again I am not versed in the nerdly arts...
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glad to hear yours didn't take as long Chuck
I guess we'll see. I don't have it back yet. :-\ I'm going to call TEAC tomorrow afternoon to make sure it really does ship back to me on Friday.
TEAC repair says my DR-680 shipped today via FedEx 3 day. They gave me a tracking number too. I should have it by Feb 2. :) That makes me very happy. :) Not sure if it was a mis-communication, but it sounded like I might be getting a new one.
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glad to hear yours didn't take as long Chuck
I guess we'll see. I don't have it back yet. :-\ I'm going to call TEAC tomorrow afternoon to make sure it really does ship back to me on Friday.
TEAC repair says my DR-680 shipped today via FedEx 3 day. They gave me a tracking number too. I should have it by Feb 2. :) That makes me very happy. :) Not sure if it was a mis-communication, but it sounded like I might be getting a new one.
the reason I received a new one was because Teac was waiting for another bum unit to be sent in so they could swap out main boards
after waiting patiently for 2 months, I contacted Full Compass and they agreed that the wait was too long and that Teac should just send me a new unit
so who knows, maybe Teac just decided that the main board is not worth swapping out and they can just use your old unit for parts... but that's just my guess
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I'll let you know when it arrives if it's a new recorder. I talked to two different people over there. The second guy thought I was getting a new one according to the paper work. But, the first guy was still saying the main board was getting replaced.
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My DR-680 arrived. They sent me a brand new one.
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See they DID replace the mainboard..........and everything else attached to it :-*
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See they DID replace the mainboard..........and everything else attached to it :-*
Yeah, FWIW the invoice said this:
NO PARTS AVAILABLE
EXCHANGE
Defect Code FS-B2
Process For Exchange
Repair Code FS-AV
Exchange Program
It came with firmware 1.11 build 50 on it.
I just updated the firmware to 1.20 build 59. I plan to test everything later tonight.
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Good news Chuck! Hopefully this one is in it for the long haul.
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Good news Chuck! Hopefully this one is in it for the long haul.
Me too.
There's lots of shows coming up in February.
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I have an external battery for my DR-680 that can provide it with either 12v or 9v.
What voltage would YOU use and why?
Can DR-680 provide full 48v phantom on 6 channels if you're using 9v on the external battery?
I know that DR-680 works with 9v but are there any advantages or disadvantages?
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I have an external battery for my DR-680 that can provide it with either 12v or 9v.
What voltage would YOU use and why?
Can DR-680 provide full 48v phantom on 6 channels if you're using 9v on the external battery?
I know that DR-680 works with 9v but are there any advantages or disadvantages?
It's spec'd for 12v DC, so I'd use that. 9v is on the low end of what it can run on.
Yes, it can provide phantom power to 6 microphones on 9v DC.
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I can't speak to the 12 volt differences. I've only run it on 9 volt because that is what I already owned. But on 9 volts it was able to provide phantom power to mics that not only are spec'ed at 48 volts but also at 10mA which is high for mics. What did it actually put out? I don't know for sure. I had never put a meter on it. I also know that Tascam tech support will not recommend anything other than 12 volts, but in real world experiences a lot of people do run it at 9 volts. Is there a difference in run times, probably. But I don't know if a lower voltage will give you a longer or shorter run time.
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When using an external pre-amp and A/D in front of the DR-680 going digital in on inputs 7 & 8...
Does the DR-680 use it's own clock or the outboard unit's clock (via the S/PDIF input)? I thought this was covered before, but I can not find it.
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The only insight I can offer is that when I used A USBPre2 to input the digi signal into a second 680. For that, the two decks were synced so it must have been using the clocking signal that was being input into it. So it seems that the 680 clocks off of the spdif signal when it is present.
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I did do a test when I first got the recorder. I sent a digital signal from a UA-5 to tracks 7 & 8. I pulled the dig cable out and it kept recording (the other channels) on the 680...
So, I wonder if it just switched to the internal clock when the S/PDIF outboard is pulled? My only worry is that if the UA-5 lost power while recording I would hope it wouldn't screw up the recordings on the other channels.
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Well....I'm not sure. When I had the issue of the USBPre2 dropping signal for a brief instant, I sometimes got a sort of ripple that went through ever track, but yet it did not happen every time. It could be the unlock/lock of the digi signal that caused it. And these dropouts were so quick that even when watching the deck it never showed a DIN unlock screen, only a DIN lock screen. I can't say that I have ever tried killing the digi signal during recording in order to see if there was a seamless transition. And fwiw I have narrowed down that particular problem to the preamps power side of the equation.
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I finally joined the team. I was wondering about battery power. I know that tascam says to run off of 12v battery, but people here run them off of 9v dvd batteries. Does running off of the 9v battery lower the dynamic range of the 680? The reason I ask is because of the sonosax pre can run off of a battery from 12v-24v. With the 24v battery, the pre has full dynamic range and if you use a lesser voltage battery the dynamic range is smaller.
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Don't think it has an effect. I even run mics that require a full 10ma of phantom power and the 9v dvd batteries work great.
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What's the "Extended power pack"? Got a link?
B&H
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/622827-REG/Tekkeon_MP3450_10_myPower_ALL_Plus_MP3450_10.html
here's what it looks like with both units together
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/public/6-Lt7_X3_tHIz3Ea077QlHZpmAcMl8XPqfTfT5cxC4UMaIHwEFyiTqurF85WXI0AVDw-cpZa9RWa_3YsOUPjjsTBJUoWAmEMds4rkQM22KjDFN_XhzL4y3ZrXFNy)
Thinking of purchasing a 680.
Was wondering is there a cord provided with the extended battery pack that connects to the 680?
Or do I have to buy that separately and where would someone suggest to get one?
If I went the 9v DVD way to power the 680, is there a local denver/boulder place I can buy one?
Thanks.
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Regarding the 9 volt DVD batteries that are talked about here on TS. AKA wallmart battery. The reason that there is still so many references to them is the fact that a lot of people already own them. In the past they were a great way to power many of the devices that we use. notice I did say in the past. The price has climbed to about 250% of what you used to be able to buy the battery for. AND with the rise in price the sources for those batteries have dropped to a vendor or two. Nowadays, it is probably better to look for other battery options. The DVD battery can be had but they are $50 now and at that price point you can get different batteries larger capacity for just a little more money. When these batteries were $10 & $20 they just couldn't be beat. Now....well tekkon is one that a lot of people go to. There are others out there but the generic DVD battery is going the way of the Dodo. If you "have" to have a DVD battery they are on Ebay. you need to watch, the cheaper ones are usually half the capacity of the more expensive ones. Most people want at least the 5400 mAh versions. The 2600 mAh does not really provide long enough run times for a long two set show.
As for cables, it will depend on what gets shipped with a battery or use one of the cable makers here on TS to build you a nice one. Hope that helps.
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Regarding the 9 volt DVD batteries that are talked about here on TS. AKA wallmart battery. The reason that there is still so many references to them is the fact that a lot of people already own them. In the past they were a great way to power many of the devices that we use. notice I did say in the past. The price has climbed to about 250% of what you used to be able to buy the battery for. AND with the rise in price the sources for those batteries have dropped to a vendor or two. Nowadays, it is probably better to look for other battery options. The DVD battery can be had but they are $50 now and at that price point you can get different batteries larger capacity for just a little more money. When these batteries were $10 & $20 they just couldn't be beat. Now....well tekkon is one that a lot of people go to. There are others out there but the generic DVD battery is going the way of the Dodo. If you "have" to have a DVD battery they are on Ebay. you need to watch, the cheaper ones are usually half the capacity of the more expensive ones. Most people want at least the 5400 mAh versions. The 2600 mAh does not really provide long enough run times for a long two set show.
As for cables, it will depend on what gets shipped with a battery or use one of the cable makers here on TS to build you a nice one. Hope that helps.
Thanks Kirkd...Appreciate it.
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What's the "Extended power pack"? Got a link?
B&H
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/622827-REG/Tekkeon_MP3450_10_myPower_ALL_Plus_MP3450_10.html
here's what it looks like with both units together
(http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/public/6-Lt7_X3_tHIz3Ea077QlHZpmAcMl8XPqfTfT5cxC4UMaIHwEFyiTqurF85WXI0AVDw-cpZa9RWa_3YsOUPjjsTBJUoWAmEMds4rkQM22KjDFN_XhzL4y3ZrXFNy)
Thinking of purchasing a 680.
Was wondering is there a cord provided with the extended battery pack that connects to the 680?
Or do I have to buy that separately and where would someone suggest to get one?
If I went the 9v DVD way to power the 680, is there a local denver/boulder place I can buy one
Thanks.
Another option is this one. I own a tekkeon, and I own three of these. These run far longer than the tekkeon does, so my recommendation would be these. The tekkeon does offer the flexibility of changing the voltage though, so it depends on what your taping needs are. For festival taping these batterygeek batteries are a better option than the tekkeons because you can run most pieces of equipment all day on one of them.
http://www.batterygeek.net/Portable-DVD-Player-Battery-p/10-14-100_batterygeek.htm
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Bit off topic, but then not.
So I borrowed a buddy's D100 DAT with the purpose of transferring some old DATs, and was planning on using the spdif in on the tascam. Have the 7 pin cable > rca coax. Plugged it into the DAT...and no DIN Lock. In fact it doesn't seem to recognize it at all. I know its not the cable, because I've used the SBM-1 with the cable and it locks in perfectly.
At one brief moment it locked, showed levels, and then unlocked.
Poked around the net. Looks like the dat doesn't put out perfect spdif voltage, but most recorders could take it. Does the Tascam take only regular spdif voltage, and I need to break out another setup (ie not the tascam 680), or am I doing something wrong?
EDIT: I think I figured out my problem. Patched it into my multiface>laptop, no problems. Realized the DAT was set at 48k, whereas the tascam was set at 44.1k. Switched the Tascam to 48k, now its golden.
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Recently, I heard some unexplained noise on one of my recordings with the DR-680. The problem was on channels 5 & 6 only. So, I did a test and found that the set of breakout cables I made for those TRS inputs make a bunch of noise when the connector twists (even a very slight twist) in the DR-680 TRS jacks. The break out cables I made have some generic TRS connectors, as I found them very easy to work with for making right angle outputs. I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with any other brand of connectors? I do have some Neutrik and Switchcraft TRS connectors, so I'm going to test them next.
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Recently, I heard some unexplained noise on one of my recordings with the DR-680. The problem was on channels 5 & 6 only. So, I did a test and found that the set of breakout cables I made for those TRS inputs make a bunch of noise when the connector twists (even a very slight twist) in the DR-680 TRS jacks. The break out cables I made have some generic TRS connectors, as I found them very easy to work with for making right angle outputs. I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with any other brand of connectors? I do have some Neutrik and Switchcraft TRS connectors, so I'm going to test them next.
What's the cable?
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Recently, I heard some unexplained noise on one of my recordings with the DR-680. The problem was on channels 5 & 6 only. So, I did a test and found that the set of breakout cables I made for those TRS inputs make a bunch of noise when the connector twists (even a very slight twist) in the DR-680 TRS jacks. The break out cables I made have some generic TRS connectors, as I found them very easy to work with for making right angle outputs. I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with any other brand of connectors? I do have some Neutrik and Switchcraft TRS connectors, so I'm going to test them next.
What's the cable?
Belden 1804a. I should have thought to PM you before posting. I knew a cable maker would provide some good input. I believe it's the connectors that I used, not the cable.
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The connector is probably a good place to start.
Recently, I heard some unexplained noise on one of my recordings with the DR-680. The problem was on channels 5 & 6 only. So, I did a test and found that the set of breakout cables I made for those TRS inputs make a bunch of noise when the connector twists (even a very slight twist) in the DR-680 TRS jacks. The break out cables I made have some generic TRS connectors, as I found them very easy to work with for making right angle outputs. I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with any other brand of connectors? I do have some Neutrik and Switchcraft TRS connectors, so I'm going to test them next.
What's the cable?
Belden 1804a. I should have thought to PM you before posting. I knew a cable maker would provide some good input. I believe it's the connectors that I used, not the cable.
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TRS jacks and plugs are sketchy as far as I'm concerned when used for microphone inputs . I've never liked using them. They don't lock, they stick out too far & they can spin. I suspect that when I try Switchcraft plugs everything is going to work just fine.
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Use TRS & TS a lot and with many different brands and even custom right angles. Never had a problem with any of the channels on the 680. And since you HAVE to use them in order to get channels 5 & 6, whether you like them or not becomes a moot point. I'd look over the connectors to be sure that there isn't a light "layer" of dirt or anything, maybe even wipe them down with alcohol to clean them. The spinning should not make any noise, even though I would not recommend it. I guess a rule of thumb is if you can see a line on the sleeve where the contact is making the connection while spinning then there might be some "dirtiness" there that could be the cause of your problem. I'm also assuming that none of these decks are old enough to have developed any corrosion on the contacts inside the deck. Or maybe you've been taping out in a row boat in heavy surf? Another thing to check is can you spin any part of your TRS connection. IE Can you spin the tip of ring or sleeve part with your fingers? You should not be able to do that. If you can then that plug needs replacing.
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I brought it up, partly because I didn't have this issue with my first DR-680. I have tried other connectors this week and found the Switchcraft TRS to work best so far. But, the problem didn't completely go away. I'm going to treat the connectors with ProGold this weekend. I try to treat all my connectors with ProGold once or twice per year. I'm hoping that is all that is needed.
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Recently, I heard some unexplained noise on one of my recordings with the DR-680. The problem was on channels 5 & 6 only. So, I did a test and found that the set of breakout cables I made for those TRS inputs make a bunch of noise when the connector twists (even a very slight twist) in the DR-680 TRS jacks. The break out cables I made have some generic TRS connectors, as I found them very easy to work with for making right angle outputs. I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with any other brand of connectors? I do have some Neutrik and Switchcraft TRS connectors, so I'm going to test them next.
what kind of noise?
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Scratchy, like the jack or plug is dirty or corroded. I know the plugs are good and clean. I've had the recorder for less than one month, so the input jacks shouldn't be old and corroded.
But, like I said, the noise only appears when turning the plug inside the TRS jack. I'm willing to bet that ProGold will fix it.
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Which ProGold product do you use? I was just checking out their site, and there is a lot of products.
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ProGold and DeoxIt. Those are the old names. They changed the naming and I'm not sure what they call it now.
I do a bunch of connectors at one time. So, I spray or pour some onto a cotton rag and wipe everything down with it a couple times per year. I use the ProGold much more than the DeoxIT, which is, or was, more useful for really corroded connectors. I can't remember off hand what it was exactly, but I did have good luck using the DeoxIT on something once.
I don't believe that mumbo jumbo that ProGold is a magical potion that makes music sound better or more clear. I just think it's a good general cleaner for connectors.
I started using it when I did sound reinforcement work and have continued using it as a taper. Some guys also use the Caig products on scratchy pots and faders on mixers and recorders.
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Bit off topic, but then not.
So I borrowed a buddy's D100 DAT with the purpose of transferring some old DATs, and was planning on using the spdif in on the tascam. Have the 7 pin cable > rca coax. Plugged it into the DAT...and no DIN Lock. In fact it doesn't seem to recognize it at all. I know its not the cable, because I've used the SBM-1 with the cable and it locks in perfectly.
At one brief moment it locked, showed levels, and then unlocked.
Poked around the net. Looks like the dat doesn't put out perfect spdif voltage, but most recorders could take it. Does the Tascam take only regular spdif voltage, and I need to break out another setup (ie not the tascam 680), or am I doing something wrong?
EDIT: I think I figured out my problem. Patched it into my multiface>laptop, no problems. Realized the DAT was set at 48k, whereas the tascam was set at 44.1k. Switched the Tascam to 48k, now its golden.
I have a similar problem. My setup is below
I have my TC-D8 > 7 pin cable > output > digi in on my DR-680/system set to Digital input on the I/O menu > DIN locks ......
but no signal coming through. I've tried setting the DR-680 @ 24/48, 24/44.1, 16/48, and 16/44.1 but still no signal passing, I do get a message saying DIN lock on the screen though. Any thoughts? I've switched it to DIN mon and I can hear the show and there is monitoring levels, but nothing records to the 7 & 8 channels. ???
Anyone? Somebody here must know how to record digi-in here.
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Is there any way to change the 2 GB limit on the DR680?
I have a 2 GB limit in my software and its a hassle to stop the recording and start it before you hit the 2 GB.
Or if anyone has any other suggestions.
Thanks!
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Took a chance and ran my first recording with the DR680 this weekend and will post comments latter. Everything worked and I ran 6 channels. YAHOO! Found out many things the hard way...but found work around in the Field!!!
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Ran a 6 channel set up this weekend with the Tascam DR680.
My set up was a V3 with DPA mics XLR's into the V3 Analog inputs XLR and used the V3 AES digital outputs connected to Tascam DR680 Channel 5 and 6 via the SPDIF cable. Then used Channel 1 and 2 from the RCA SBD feed. Used Channels 7 & 8 for stereo mix. So running 6 channels with 24/96 wav format with DPA's on stage Front of lip with SBD feed then those run into the stereo mix.
Tascam DR680 settting If I remember correctly:
Set Tascam DR680 I/O - Input sel to digital and D. Output to AES
It is important to make sure everything is set up correctly before hitting the actually record button to start the show. Would be easy to make a mistake in the beginning.
Checked to make sure format was 24/96 wav. Ran channels as pairs for stereo or channel one and two output was one stereo pair wav file in 24/96 format. Everything ran well but had some small nuisances or things that might help others running the rig.
Display: - if you have it in AC mode (running from AC cord) it will run the DISPLAY on all the time. If you run it on batteries/external batteries it will show display for x amount of seconds. I did not see this but the default for the display is to run for 5 seconds with external/or internal batteries. You can change this in menu -> System -> Back lit (values 5 sec, 10 sec, 15 sec and 30 sec). I set mine to 30 seconds. 5 seconds in way to low.
Levels meter: The one bar is INSUFFICIENT to determine where the record level is. We need to ask tascam to put in 2 more levels for the level meter. Maybe with dotted lines at 2 different predetermined levels. Have 2 dotted lines on the display at19 at 22 DB would be my suggestion. First night ran levels low then second night almost too high...argggg.
Batteries/AC cord: I pluged in the Tascam DR680 AC cord to the SBD power. Everything looked good. I saw the AC meter in the display. Well I moved the Tascam DR680 and must of unplugged the AC cord where the 2 attach and WAS RUNNING it on the 8 batteries I had already put in before the show. I noticed in the beginning of the second set the AC light was out and the battery light was down one of the 3 bars and buy the end of the second set it was done to one bar. So I would say I ran the recorder about 2.5 hours with 6 channels and the battery light was down to one bar for awhile. You might want to tape the AC cords together so they do not come apart. Put in batteries there is a fail safe to go from eternal power to internal power. I looked at the wav file and no glitches from going from AC to battery power.
channel Buttons: Make sure you have the channels you want turned on. As soon as you hit record if you get this wrong and you can not stop/start when the band has already started playing. The extra channels BURN SPACE ON THE SDHC card. First time I set it right. I turned the Tascam DR680 off between sets and it RESETS to the default of all channels on and I did not check this and was recording 8 channels burning valuable SHDC card space. Almost filed one 16 GB card in 2.5 hours in 24/96 with 6 and the 8 channel error above. Put in a second 16 GB card for 3 set and it worked fine. HIGHLY RECOMMEND A 32 GB card or 2 - LOL.
AES/SPIDF format I ran the SPIDF cable form the V3 to the Digital in on the Tascam DR680. It hooked in no problem. I did a test at home with the digital output format set to "SPIDF" and "AES". There is a huge difference in these 2 formats SPIDF is consumer grade and AES is professional grade. I ran 2 tests one with AES on then the other with SPIDF on and listened to both wav files on the computer. The SPIDF sounded nice but was thin and seemed to be missing something. Then listened to the AES file and WOW what a difference a really full sounding file with more detail and just seemed more information coming at you.
Battery meter: When the battery power on the Tascam DR680 went from AC to batteries the "Battery meter" was NOT accurate. It showed hardly any juice left when I new at least 1/2 the battery power was left on the battiers. The "Battery meter" would grow instead of shrink as the night went on. This "Battery meter" was not reliable IMO or I was using it wrong.
Noise in outputs: Chuck asked if anyone noticed noise from touching the connectors TRS in the Tascam DR680. This happened once during set 2 for about 2 minutes then went back to normal. I think I moved the deck.
One thing I found is it is hard to see the meters if its not positioned right. So Next time when I set it I don't want to move it for the above reasons. Pulling out AC cord from one another. TRS connections causing static if moved.
Thats all I remember right now...
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AES/SPIDF format I ran the SPIDF cable form the V3 to the Digital in on the Tascam DR680. It hooked in no problem. I did a test at home with the digital output format set to "SPIDF" and "AES". There is a huge difference in these 2 formats SPIDF is consumer grade and AES is professional grade. I ran 2 tests one with AES on then the other with SPIDF on and listened to both wav files on the computer. The SPIDF sounded nice but was thin and seemed to be missing something. Then listened to the AES file and WOW what a difference a really full sounding file with more detail and just seemed more information coming at you.
Thanks for the detailed reporting Patrick! So I didn't realize you had gotten a 680, very nice, becoming the recorder of choice for the CO Crue.
On your point above, I think this is a case of hearing what you want to hear. There is no difference whatsover in sound between a spdif bitstream and an AES bitstream. They carry exactly the same sound bits (whether 16 bit or 24 bit). The only difference in the digital "words" making up the AES and spdif bitstreams is a bit that is either flagged as consumer or professional. This bit doesn't affect the sound at all, iirc it really is used to set consumer status, where consumer status doesn't allow digital clones to be made (SCMS stuff).
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After I cleaned up the recorder TRS jacks with the ProGold the scratchiness is gone when turning the TRS plugs in the DR-680. I've only ever had an issue like that with older gear. Now, any TRS plug I use works fine in those jacks.
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Chuck...good to hear that it's all cleared up. Still kinda odd that a new deck would need that. Maybe there was some "dirt" from manufacturing?
LEVEL METERS. I think that the real world application is what matters most. I think you will find that the placement of the line works as great reference point when setting levels ESPECIALLY in the 24 bit world. Tascam has placed it at a point were it allows plenty of headroom and yet gives good levels if you set you levels to peak at about the line. You just need to trust it. I don't see asking for "two" bars being a way to make it more accurate. after all the same increments will be applied to the meter scale. So how does a "bigger" level marking make it more accurate? Initially I thought the metering was weak but after using it I found there was actually good foresight in the placement and layout of the meters.
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Bit off topic, but then not.
So I borrowed a buddy's D100 DAT with the purpose of transferring some old DATs, and was planning on using the spdif in on the tascam. Have the 7 pin cable > rca coax. Plugged it into the DAT...and no DIN Lock. In fact it doesn't seem to recognize it at all. I know its not the cable, because I've used the SBM-1 with the cable and it locks in perfectly.
At one brief moment it locked, showed levels, and then unlocked.
Poked around the net. Looks like the dat doesn't put out perfect spdif voltage, but most recorders could take it. Does the Tascam take only regular spdif voltage, and I need to break out another setup (ie not the tascam 680), or am I doing something wrong?
EDIT: I think I figured out my problem. Patched it into my multiface>laptop, no problems. Realized the DAT was set at 48k, whereas the tascam was set at 44.1k. Switched the Tascam to 48k, now its golden.
I have a similar problem. My setup is below
I have my TC-D8 > 7 pin cable > output > digi in on my DR-680/system set to Digital input on the I/O menu > DIN locks ......
but no signal coming through. I've tried setting the DR-680 @ 24/48, 24/44.1, 16/48, and 16/44.1 but still no signal passing, I do get a message saying DIN lock on the screen though. Any thoughts? I've switched it to DIN mon and I can hear the show and there is monitoring levels, but nothing records to the 7 & 8 channels. ???
Anyone? Somebody here must know how to record digi-in here.
Myco
not sure about the 680 other users may need to chime in
but you do know the TCD-D8 is only outputting 16/48 - so I would guess your entire recording would need to be set at 16/48
doubt that helps... but I'd thought I'd chime in
--Ian
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Ian,
wouldn't the digi cable output what ever was recorded? So if it was recorded 16/44 then the output would be 16/44 right? and as for the Tascam. You could set it to 16 or 24 bit it wouldn't matter. The other thing to be aware of Myco is that the 680 can be configures to record digital on channels 5 & 6 instead of 7 & 8. You might want to check that.
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Chuck...good to hear that it's all cleared up. Still kinda odd that a new deck would need that. Maybe there was some "dirt" from manufacturing?
LEVEL METERS. I think that the real world application is what matters most. I think you will find that the placement of the line works as great reference point when setting levels ESPECIALLY in the 24 bit world. Tascam has placed it at a point were it allows plenty of headroom and yet gives good levels if you set you levels to peak at about the line. You just need to trust it. I don't see asking for "two" bars being a way to make it more accurate. after all the same increments will be applied to the meter scale. So how does a "bigger" level marking make it more accurate? Initially I thought the metering was weak but after using it I found there was actually good foresight in the placement and layout of the meters.
I will always listen and respect others opinions. The first night I aimed for the levels slightly above the line and the AVERAGE RMS was only 28 or 29 in 24/96 in wavelab. I usually like Average RMS around 21. So the additional bars or dotted lines would help me aim for that. I know about head room, but if my average RMS is not over 25 I do not get good saturation of mids and highs only lows at least with my gear.
Am I missing something?
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AES/SPIDF format I ran the SPIDF cable form the V3 to the Digital in on the Tascam DR680. It hooked in no problem. I did a test at home with the digital output format set to "SPIDF" and "AES". There is a huge difference in these 2 formats SPIDF is consumer grade and AES is professional grade. I ran 2 tests one with AES on then the other with SPIDF on and listened to both wav files on the computer. The SPIDF sounded nice but was thin and seemed to be missing something. Then listened to the AES file and WOW what a difference a really full sounding file with more detail and just seemed more information coming at you.
Thanks for the detailed reporting Patrick! So I didn't realize you had gotten a 680, very nice, becoming the recorder of choice for the CO Crue.
On your point above, I think this is a case of hearing what you want to hear. There is no difference whatsover in sound between a spdif bitstream and an AES bitstream. They carry exactly the same sound bits (whether 16 bit or 24 bit). The only difference in the digital "words" making up the AES and spdif bitstreams is a bit that is either flagged as consumer or professional. This bit doesn't affect the sound at all, iirc it really is used to set consumer status, where consumer status doesn't allow digital clones to be made (SCMS stuff).
Thanks Todd for the note. There was so much difference between these files that it was not what I wanted to hear. Maybe I made a mistake and did not do the test properly each time. But all I thought I changed was the Digital output from SPIDF to AES and ran the test again. I deleted all the test files I ran last week. My wife even commented on how much difference there was. I will have to run it again in the future and see if I can repeat it.
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The first couple of times I used the DR-680 I thought I was going to hate the meters, but I have really grown to like them. I do still wish there was an actual clipping indicator though.
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Thanks guys! Teddy actually filled me in on how to do this. To record digi-in I needed to set the 680 to Digital and Mix on the I/O instead of DIN, Stereo - Mix on the Main Menu shutting off 1,2,3,4, channels, and Mix Mon on the function screen. I now get the digi-in reading on the 5 & 6 channel, and I can monitor the levels there on 5&6, and the levels display in the mix side of the screen also. ;D
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The first couple of times I used the DR-680 I thought I was going to hate the meters, but I have really grown to like them. I do still wish there was an actual clipping indicator though.
see page 16 from the owners manual
http://www.avisoft.com/DR-680.pdf
if signal is distorted at input level, the area below the channel is highlighted
if the signal reaches +2db the black rectangle above the channel will flash indicating overload
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AES/SPIDF format I ran the SPIDF cable form the V3 to the Digital in on the Tascam DR680. It hooked in no problem. I did a test at home with the digital output format set to "SPIDF" and "AES". There is a huge difference in these 2 formats SPIDF is consumer grade and AES is professional grade. I ran 2 tests one with AES on then the other with SPIDF on and listened to both wav files on the computer. The SPIDF sounded nice but was thin and seemed to be missing something. Then listened to the AES file and WOW what a difference a really full sounding file with more detail and just seemed more information coming at you.
Thanks for the detailed reporting Patrick! So I didn't realize you had gotten a 680, very nice, becoming the recorder of choice for the CO Crue.
On your point above, I think this is a case of hearing what you want to hear. There is no difference whatsover in sound between a spdif bitstream and an AES bitstream. They carry exactly the same sound bits (whether 16 bit or 24 bit). The only difference in the digital "words" making up the AES and spdif bitstreams is a bit that is either flagged as consumer or professional. This bit doesn't affect the sound at all, iirc it really is used to set consumer status, where consumer status doesn't allow digital clones to be made (SCMS stuff).
Thanks Todd for the note. There was so much difference between these files that it was not what I wanted to hear. Maybe I made a mistake and did not do the test properly each time. But all I thought I changed was the Digital output from SPIDF to AES and ran the test again. I deleted all the test files I ran last week. My wife even commented on how much difference there was. I will have to run it again in the future and see if I can repeat it.
There is a difference in voltage levels that may account for what you heard but the data is the same in either format.
Remember that even though the audio data is the same between AES3 and S/PDIF, they have different subcode formats. AES3 converted to 75-ohm coax is not S/PDIF, and S/PDIF converted to XLR balanced is not AES3. Nor is AES3id 75-ohm BNC the same as 75-ohm RCA S/PDIF -- it may work, but it is not the same. They are still in their native format; just the transmission medium has changed. Going from S/PDIF to AES3 has a higher degree of success than the other way around. AES3 signals often are not recognized as valid by S/PDIF inputs. Whether they will work in your application depends on the equipment chosen.
Therefore the following passive circuits convert only the signal level and impedance, and not other protocol details (e.g., sample rate, consumer/professional status, nor correct any block errors in the data stream).
Taken from:http://www.rane.com/note149.html
Phil I'm not sure what you mean by saturation since that is really a magnetic tape term but what you record at level X should be the smae as what you record at the higher level Y. Are you referring to the digital input? In that case you would be controlling it at the preamp and could adjust you levels so that they peak higher. IE: halfway between the mid line and the top line. I think once you;ve used the deck a few times and get a feel for it you will like the way the levels are set up to read.
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"If a recording level exceeds 2.0 dB below the maximum level, a mark appears at the top of it's meter, indicating an overload." I haven't ever seen the distorted at input stage indicator come on. 2 dB from clipping isn't clipping. Small point, but it's not a true clipping indicator. I really liked the resettable clip light on the V3...
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"If a recording level exceeds 2.0 dB below the maximum level, a mark appears at the top of it's meter, indicating an overload." I haven't ever seen the distorted at input stage indicator come on. 2 dB from clipping isn't clipping. Small point, but it's not a true clipping indicator. I really liked the resettable clip light on the V3...
well then just buy 3 more V3's and you will be set :P
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Thanks for that detail, Kirk.
The voltage level doesn't matter from a sound perspective, since it all is digital information. The voltage level only addresses what is sensed as a digital "one", as opposed to a digital "zero" (zero and one being the only choices with binary encoding). Thus the voltage level can be problematic with your gear (as in consumer gear expecting a 0.5v digital one might get fried or something if it instead gets a +10v digital one from an AES stream). But assuming the gear is reading the digital bits correctly, that AES vs spdif voltage level has no effect on the resulting sound.
The Rane note gets at the heart of things -- there is a standard for transmitting digital audio over either the spdif standard or AES standard. The voltages, impedences and connections are one thing (the hardware side if you will), then there is the software side -- the digital word that represents each of the 44,100 samples per second (or 96k or whatever). Each digital word has 16-24 bits of audio data (per channel), and then there are something like 8 other bits as part of the "subcode" information. You should be able to find these with a google search. I looked into them years ago and don't recall what they all are. One bit is for professional vs consumer (AES vs spdif), one bit is for pre-emphasis on or not, and there are others.
Assuming things are correctly configured, it shouldn't be an issue.
Patrick -- in testing it, I'd set the 680 to professional/AES or whatever it is. Then send it a signal from your V3 out of the AES2 output (I think it is the AES2, maybe it is the AES1). Choose the V3 AES output that is configurable internally via jumpers. Set the V3 to output a professional output on the AES2 out (or AES1, whichever it is) and send that to the 680. Then configure the jumpers on the V3 to output a consumer output on that AES output, and send the signal of the same material the using the same cable then same way to the 680 (without changing the pro vs consumer setting of the 680). This should give you the difference between the professional subcode output and the consumer subcode output.
And this should sound the exact same. Ultimately, I trust Grace to get it right (and am pretty sure I tested all this to be bit-perfect the same many years ago). I'm guessing you won't hear any difference this way.
I'd be curious if you tested it this way and didn't hear a difference, and then tested it a different way by changing the pro vs consumer status on the 680. If you are hearing a difference this latter way, I'd really like to know what is up with Tascam's handling of pro vs consumer (AES vs spdif). There shouldn't be a difference!!
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From Kirk:
"Phil I'm not sure what you mean by saturation since that is really a magnetic tape term but what you record at level X should be the smae as what you record at the higher level Y. Are you referring to the digital input? In that case you would be controlling it at the preamp and could adjust you levels so that they peak higher. IE: halfway between the mid line and the top line. I think once you;ve used the deck a few times and get a feel for it you will like the way the levels are set up to read. "
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Thanks kirk, appreciate it.
You are right "saturate" is a magnetic tape term and that dates to when I started taping...LOL
I ran different levels both night and following is the results:
case 1) The recd level meters on DR 680 were set at slightly above the mid line. When I got home and looked at it in wavelab the peak RMS was around -18 db and average was around -28 - 29 DB. Signal in wavelab is quite low and most of the frequency response in only in the 20 - 1000 range.
This is too low of a recording level is what I was trying to indicate in my previous post.
case 2) Then second night I went past the half way point between what to you refer as the "mid line and the top line". The peak RMS in wavelab was around -8-9DB and a average was around -18 to 19 DB.
Very good signal in wavelab no oversaturation or clipping but it is starting to push towards there. Very good representation of freq. response in wavelab from 20 - 5000 and sometimes levels appearing in 8000 to 1000 range.
This is a slightly high recd level IMO and I should of have lower the recd levels slightly.
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So when I asked for a possible update from tascam for 2 addition bars or dotted lines I wanted them to be at maybe -22 and -19 DB on the display so we could tell what to aim for instead of half between the "mid line and the top line".
You guys have used the deck more then I have and you have seemed to gotten used to this feature and now you guys like it. I will wait and see but sure thought they could of put 2 more dotted lines for other level besides the "mid line" IMO.
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Thanks for that detail, Kirk.
The voltage level doesn't matter from a sound perspective, since it all is digital information. The voltage level only addresses what is sensed as a digital "one", as opposed to a digital "zero" (zero and one being the only choices with binary encoding). Thus the voltage level can be problematic with your gear (as in consumer gear expecting a 0.5v digital one might get fried or something if it instead gets a +10v digital one from an AES stream). But assuming the gear is reading the digital bits correctly, that AES vs spdif voltage level has no effect on the resulting sound.
The Rane note gets at the heart of things -- there is a standard for transmitting digital audio over either the spdif standard or AES standard. The voltages, impedences and connections are one thing (the hardware side if you will), then there is the software side -- the digital word that represents each of the 44,100 samples per second (or 96k or whatever). Each digital word has 16-24 bits of audio data (per channel), and then there are something like 8 other bits as part of the "subcode" information. You should be able to find these with a google search. I looked into them years ago and don't recall what they all are. One bit is for professional vs consumer (AES vs spdif), one bit is for pre-emphasis on or not, and there are others.
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Assuming things are correctly configured, it shouldn't be an issue.
Patrick -- in testing it, I'd set the 680 to professional/AES or whatever it is. Then send it a signal from your V3 out of the AES2 output (I think it is the AES2, maybe it is the AES1). Choose the V3 AES output that is configurable internally via jumpers. Set the V3 to output a professional output on the AES2 out (or AES1, whichever it is) and send that to the 680. Then configure the jumpers on the V3 to output a consumer output on that AES output, and send the signal of the same material the using the same cable then same way to the 680 (without changing the pro vs consumer setting of the 680). This should give you the difference between the professional subcode output and the consumer subcode output.
And this should sound the exact same. Ultimately, I trust Grace to get it right (and am pretty sure I tested all this to be bit-perfect the same many years ago). I'm guessing you won't hear any difference this way.
I'd be curious if you tested it this way and didn't hear a difference, and then tested it a different way by changing the pro vs consumer status on the 680. If you are hearing a difference this latter way, I'd really like to know what is up with Tascam's handling of pro vs consumer (AES vs spdif). There shouldn't be a difference!!
Thanks todd.
If you like to come over to my house some time we can run test one with the jumpers on the V3.
Todd states:
"I'd be curious if you tested it this way and didn't hear a difference, and then tested it a different way by changing the pro vs consumer status on the 680. If you are hearing a difference this latter way, I'd really like to know what is up with Tascam's handling of pro vs consumer (AES vs spdif). There shouldn't be a difference!!"
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What I thought I did was change only thing on the menu in the DR680
Menu
I/O
D.Out mode = Changed SPIDF to AES
One file was with Digital OUT MODE = SPIDF
Second file was with Digital OUT MODE = AES
I was running DPA's XLR into V3 analog XLR input. Digital output XLR's out of V3 (AES) to Female XLR's - TRS cable into channels 5&6 Tascam . I had the SPIDF cable connected from V3 to Digital in on tascam DR680.
This is a easy retest for me or anyone with this rig set up. I will try and make time this week to see if I can test this again.
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Phil assuming that you are recording in 24 bit(you probably said but I can't remember) Have you tried to just increase your levels in WL? IE: boost them 8dB. and then see how things are. The nice advantage to 24 bit is you can boost levels without getting a bunch of unwanted noise.
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Attached are photos of the snake I recently made for my DR-680.
I made a four channel 17' long snake for the first 4 inputs. Wrapped in .5 inch TechFlex. Thanks goodcooker :)
I found the colored labels (colored the same as resistor band codes ;D ) at my local electronics surplus warehouse.
I made a second 12' long pair of cables for the 2 TRS inputs.
Typically I use the TRS inputs for SBD line feed at my local venue. So, 12' works perfectly for that. I also wanted to have one set of cables that were not TechFlexed together for when I run split microphones.
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Thanks for that detail, Kirk.
The voltage level doesn't matter from a sound perspective, since it all is digital information. The voltage level only addresses what is sensed as a digital "one", as opposed to a digital "zero" (zero and one being the only choices with binary encoding). Thus the voltage level can be problematic with your gear (as in consumer gear expecting a 0.5v digital one might get fried or something if it instead gets a +10v digital one from an AES stream). But assuming the gear is reading the digital bits correctly, that AES vs spdif voltage level has no effect on the resulting sound.
The Rane note gets at the heart of things -- there is a standard for transmitting digital audio over either the spdif standard or AES standard. The voltages, impedences and connections are one thing (the hardware side if you will), then there is the software side -- the digital word that represents each of the 44,100 samples per second (or 96k or whatever). Each digital word has 16-24 bits of audio data (per channel), and then there are something like 8 other bits as part of the "subcode" information. You should be able to find these with a google search. I looked into them years ago and don't recall what they all are. One bit is for professional vs consumer (AES vs spdif), one bit is for pre-emphasis on or not, and there are others.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Assuming things are correctly configured, it shouldn't be an issue.
Patrick -- in testing it, I'd set the 680 to professional/AES or whatever it is. Then send it a signal from your V3 out of the AES2 output (I think it is the AES2, maybe it is the AES1). Choose the V3 AES output that is configurable internally via jumpers. Set the V3 to output a professional output on the AES2 out (or AES1, whichever it is) and send that to the 680. Then configure the jumpers on the V3 to output a consumer output on that AES output, and send the signal of the same material the using the same cable then same way to the 680 (without changing the pro vs consumer setting of the 680). This should give you the difference between the professional subcode output and the consumer subcode output.
And this should sound the exact same. Ultimately, I trust Grace to get it right (and am pretty sure I tested all this to be bit-perfect the same many years ago). I'm guessing you won't hear any difference this way.
I'd be curious if you tested it this way and didn't hear a difference, and then tested it a different way by changing the pro vs consumer status on the 680. If you are hearing a difference this latter way, I'd really like to know what is up with Tascam's handling of pro vs consumer (AES vs spdif). There shouldn't be a difference!!
Thanks todd.
If you like to come over to my house some time we can run test one with the jumpers on the V3.
Todd states:
"I'd be curious if you tested it this way and didn't hear a difference, and then tested it a different way by changing the pro vs consumer status on the 680. If you are hearing a difference this latter way, I'd really like to know what is up with Tascam's handling of pro vs consumer (AES vs spdif). There shouldn't be a difference!!"
--------------------------------------------------------
What I thought I did was change only thing on the menu in the DR680
Menu
I/O
D.Out mode = Changed SPIDF to AES
One file was with Digital OUT MODE = SPIDF
Second file was with Digital OUT MODE = AES
I was running DPA's XLR into V3 analog XLR input. Digital output XLR's out of V3 (AES) to Female XLR's - TRS cable into channels 5&6 Tascam . I had the SPIDF cable connected from V3 to Digital in on tascam DR680.
This is a easy retest for me or anyone with this rig set up. I will try and make time this week to see if I can test this again.
I reran the test today and there is no difference between those 2 modes. It was a pilot error. Not sure what I did the first time
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Attached are photos of the snake I recently made for my DR-680.
I made a four channel 17' long snake for the first 4 inputs. Wrapped in .5 inch TechFlex. Thanks goodcooker :)
I found the colored labels (colored the same as resistor band codes ;D ) at my local electronics surplus warehouse.
I made a second 12' long pair of cables for the 2 TRS inputs.
Typically I use the TRS inputs for SBD line feed at my local venue. So, 12' works perfectly for that. I also wanted to have one set of cables that were not TechFlexed together for when I run split microphones.
Nice chuck.
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I also wanted to have one set of cables that were not TechFlexed together for when I run split microphones.
Kewl. That is some real skinny cable so that Tecflex is a little baggy but it will be easy to coil and uncoil.
Can you phantom power mics on the 5/6 TRS inputs? One of the reasons I always ran TRS cables for the board patch into combo jacks on my R4 was that phantom was active on the XLR but not the TRS so I knew I would never fry anyone's console by accidentally sending power back to the outs on the SBD if I got a little :drunk:
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Can you phantom power mics on the 5/6 TRS inputs? One of the reasons I always ran TRS cables for the board patch into combo jacks on my R4 was that phantom was active on the XLR but not the TRS so I knew I would never fry anyone's console by accidentally sending power back to the outs on the SBD if I got a little :drunk:
yes you can phantom power on 5/6 TRS
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I really liked the resettable clip light on the V3...
Me too, I really miss that peak hold :(
I have been seriously contemplating a 680. Is ANYONE doing mods on them yet? I have even thought of running:
MBHO>722>680 +
MBHO>LB>680
Or just getting some Audix micros[hypers of course :P ] and running:
MBHO>LB>680 +
Audix>722>680
Even Chucks Furthur recordings sound EXCELLENT w/ just running 483>stock 680. In fact, I think the 680's preamps are right up there w/ the 7xx preamps, at least IMO of course!
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I really liked the resettable clip light on the V3...
Me too, I really miss that peak hold :(
I have been seriously contemplating a 680. Is ANYONE doing mods on them yet? I have even thought of running:
MBHO>722>680 +
MBHO>LB>680
Or just getting some Audix micros[hypers of course :P ] and running:
MBHO>LB>680 +
Audix>722>680
Even Chucks Furthur recordings sound EXCELLENT w/ just running 483>stock 680. In fact, I think the 680's preamps are right up there w/ the 7xx preamps, at least IMO of course!
Busman is doing mods and the cost is $1100 for all 6 channels.
http://www.busmanaudio.com/mods.html
There is a discussion I think it was in Part 2 of this thread on the pro/cons of the mod. Some I had never thought of before.
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I really liked the resettable clip light on the V3...
Me too, I really miss that peak hold :(
I have been seriously contemplating a 680. Is ANYONE doing mods on them yet? I have even thought of running:
MBHO>722>680 +
MBHO>LB>680
Or just getting some Audix micros[hypers of course :P ] and running:
MBHO>LB>680 +
Audix>722>680
Even Chucks Furthur recordings sound EXCELLENT w/ just running 483>stock 680. In fact, I think the 680's preamps are right up there w/ the 7xx preamps, at least IMO of course!
Busman is doing mods and the cost is $1100 for all 6 channels.
http://www.busmanaudio.com/mods.html
There is a discussion I think it was in Part 2 of this thread on the pro/cons of the mod. Some I had never thought of before.
Phil, you have it wrong, that is way too much. Here is the email I got from Chris personally. The link you've supplied even breaks it down by 2,4, & 6 channels.
Mike,
The mod is a change of all the input op amps and all of the input capacitors. I change the values of the input caps and use elna silmic II caps which have a nice detailed but warm tone not to be confused with a warm type mod. These just give a better sound throughout the audio band while giving great bass response and smooth top end without harshness. I feel the sound of these mods and this recorder in general is much better than the R44. I have always liked the converters that tascam uses and this is no exception. The stock preamps leave a lot to be desired in my opinion. I know others have posted that I thought the stock sound was just fine but that is not true. My statements were that it works ok out of the box but sound wise it is closed in on the soundstage while being very unflattering to music with no life to the sound. The mods also give better noise floor which in concert recording doesn’t really matter anyway because the signal is so strong to begin with.
I normally charge $300 for all 6 channels.
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It's $1100 for a new unit with a mod on all 6 channels or $300 for the mod to all 6 and you supply the unit.
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It's $1100 for a new unit with a mod on all 6 channels or $300 for the mod to all 6 and you supply the unit.
;) OK, gotcha.
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It's $1100 for a new unit with a mod on all 6 channels or $300 for the mod to all 6 and you supply the unit.
;) OK, gotcha.
;D
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Hello, i bought the DR-680 recently and I'm going to use it in my bag for upcoming documentary project. I searched long and hard and still cannot figure out how to reset the take number on this device. Seems that Tascam will remember last take number, for example let's say you set USER1 string as BOWIE1 - then the recorder should name tracks BOWIE1-000,001, etc. The way my unit behaves is it remebers last number and even when you change the user string to date or something else, it will still start from the last take number it had worked with. So whenever i start a new project i have to start with the last take for example 257? It happens even when i create new project folder. Is there something i am missing? There are some mystery files on SD card, tascam.sys and tascam.tak that seem to hold that data, but after reformatting the card the number is still in memory! Thanks in advance, Bartosz.
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Hi,
Great forum! First post. I've been reading all the threads on the DR-680 here and everywhere. So, I bought one last week to use as a bit bucket for my Metric Halo ULN-2 so I don't have to carry a noisy fanned Macbook on location for classical recording. I've posted this issue I'm having over on GearSlutz too. I'm hoping that this is user error and I can get these two to work. I have a week before I can send the DR-680 back.
I can't get the DR-680 and the ULN-2 to lock via SPDIF. I keep getting a "DIN UNLOCK" message when I press Pause to enable Recording. I've set and saved the Snapshot 2 State of the ULN-2 to:
Clock Source-Internal
Sample Rate-48000
WC Out-1x FS
DI Source-S/PDIF
DI SRC-not highlighted
DR-680 is set to:
I/O
INPUT SEL - DIGITAL
A. OUT SEL - DIRECT
D. OUT MODE - SPDIF
REC
FORMAT - WAV 24 bit
SAMPLE - 48 kHz
FILE - STEREO
TRACK - (all tracks 1-6 and ST are in listed in dark blocks. I can't select anything here)
ST REC - MIX
I've unplugged the ULN-2, and with the DR-680 off, hooked up the SPDIF cable then plugged ULN-2 in and switched to Snapshot to 2 on the front. I then power on the DR-680. I've made sure the DR-680 is set to same sample rate. I've also set the DR-680 to 24bit and set the Digital In to SPDIF on the DR-680 enabling tracks 5&6 to record the SPDIF signal.
Is there something obvious that i'm missing regarding the ULN-2 Snapshot? Perhaps the clock? I don't understand anything about clocking or if the DR-680 is supposed to clock off of what's coming in. Can't find it in the manual - no mention of clocking.
I have the SPDIF cable coming from the ULN-2 RCA Out to the DR-680 RCA In. Do I need to get another SPDIF Cable to connect from the DR-680 Out to the ULN-2 In as well? Should I set the ULN-2 clock differently?
Thanks for any more help or suggestions.
Jay
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I've searched here and read the compatibility list here:
http://tascam.com/product/dr-680/downloads/
I'm still unsure of the minimum class rating that works with, say 8 tracks of 96/24 audio.
I'm assuming that (or 192) would be the "acid-test" of class compatibility.
I'll probably go with 32gb cards, but class 10's of those get pretty pricey.
So . . .
How "low-class" can I go?
Is there any down side of using 32gb cards over several 16gb cards? (other than switching cards)
All of my work has been done on CF cards so the 680 and SD will be unexplored territory for me.
Thanks for the advice,
Dave
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I've searched here and read the compatibility list here:
http://tascam.com/product/dr-680/downloads/
I'm still unsure of the minimum class rating that works with, say 8 tracks of 96/24 audio.
I'm assuming that (or 192) would be the "acid-test" of class compatibility.
I'll probably go with 32gb cards, but class 10's of those get pretty pricey.
So . . .
How "low-class" can I go?
Is there any down side of using 32gb cards over several 16gb cards? (other than switching cards)
All of my work has been done on CF cards so the 680 and SD will be unexplored territory for me.
Thanks for the advice,
Dave
I have 2 16 GB cards both class 4 and they work fine. One is a Lexar Platinum II 16 GB SDHC card and other one is a scandisk 16 GB SDHC class 4. Recently bought a Kingston 32GB SDHC Memory Card * Class 4 Rating. Heard you can go as low as class 4 and don't have to have the class 10.
I almost filled a 16 GB card at 2,5 hours of a show and was nervous that it would fill the card bfore teh set was done. Remember each 2 channels is 1 GB for 37 minutes at 24/96 and then mulitple that by many channels and you burn thru disc space like crazy. Having 2 cards if something goes wrong with one card you have data on the other card. Failure with one card no back up you SOL.
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Right class 4 I believe it is the manual somewhere. Out of the mix of class 4, 6 & 10 cards including some cheaper brands the 680 has not had an issue with any of them. I think the 32's are still a little spendy. I run 24/48 and that give you bout 4 hours on a 16GB card. At that setting I don't have to worry about a long set. And if it's a two set show then depending on 1st set length I can swap them out if needed. If I wanted to run 24/96, I would use the 32 GB cards so you would have basically the same 4 hours on a card. That is using all 8 tracks too. Less tracks = more space
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Below is some of my latest update from another forum. I thought I should update here in case anyone wants to use a Metric Halo ULN-2 with the DR-680 - They can! ;D
UPDATE! I've got 44.1k, 48k, AND 96K working no problems now! I'm VERY excited about this! I can also switch sample rates at will without being hooked up to my macbook or powering down either device etc. All I have to do now is have two SPDIF cables hooked up - so that, I guess, each device is communicating each way with each other. I want to have both cables hooked up anyway because I've routed and made my Snapshot States in the Metric Halo MIO Console- one for each sample rate - so that I can monitor and playback through my ULN-2 (or both devices at the same time, if I want, for a total of two headphone outs on location - sans MacBook). DELIGHTFUL!
Anyway, it wasn't always like this for some reason. I guess each device just had to get to know each other better - and me them. Now we all know and like each other just fine and are getting along wonderfully!!
Thanks,
Jay
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I have this SanDisk Ultra 32GB SDHC Card (SDSDRH-032G-A11) It's Class 4 and working no problems with 2 tracks at 96k. I haven't tried 192k or any more tracks yet. It's only around $60.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/563180-REG/SanDisk_SDSDRH_032G_A11_32GB_Ultra_SDHC_Memory.html
http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-32GB-SDHC-SDSDRH-032G-A11/dp/B00194101O
Jay
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Below is some of my latest update from another forum. I thought I should update here in case anyone wants to use a Metric Halo ULN-2 with the DR-680 - They can! ;D
UPDATE! I've got 44.1k, 48k, AND 96K working no problems now! I'm VERY excited about this! I can also switch sample rates at will without being hooked up to my macbook or powering down either device etc. All I have to do now is have two SPDIF cables hooked up - so that, I guess, each device is communicating each way with each other. I want to have both cables hooked up anyway because I've routed and made my Snapshot States in the Metric Halo MIO Console- one for each sample rate - so that I can monitor and playback through my ULN-2 (or both devices at the same time, if I want, for a total of two headphone outs on location - sans MacBook). DELIGHTFUL!
Anyway, it wasn't always like this for some reason. I guess each device just had to get to know each other better - and me them. Now we all know and like each other just fine and are getting along wonderfully!!
Thanks,
Jay
Thanks for the report jay! WOuld not of thought to connect a 2nd SPIDF cable. WAY TO GO!
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Here is my first recording using the Tascam DR-680. It was a SBD feed.
http://www.archive.org/details/TB2011-02-25
SBD feed -> RCA cables ->
RCA -> XLR converter -> Tascam DR-680
I ran the SBD feed into the tascam Channel 5&6 as digital with SPIDF cable and all worked fine. I also ran on stage mics but they were too close to the drum kit and I did not use that recording for this upload. The mic were run into channels 1&2 analog and I ran that into the stereo mix. There was a warm up band so I got the mix with a decent sound.
I was shocked on how good the SBD feed sounded. Joel is Thunder body sound guy and he had the sound pegged that night. Gave it to the band and they were happy!
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I ran the 680 last night for the first time and was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to operate. my buddy Hummat here in new orleans gave me rundown in the afternoon and I ran all 8 channels last night at the Maple Leaf.
here were the 8 channels I ran:
Organ, Keyboard, Keybass, leslie cabinet - subgroup
Bass
Guitar
Sax
Drum subgroup
Vocals
onstage omni
onstage omni
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I ran the 680 last night for the first time and was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to operate. my buddy Hummat here in new orleans gave me rundown in the afternoon and I ran all 8 channels last night at the Maple Leaf.
here were the 8 channels I ran:
Organ, Keyboard, Keybass, leslie cabinet - subgroup
Bass
Guitar
Sax
Drum subgroup
Vocals
onstage omni
onstage omni
Oh your screwed now with Jay's help >:D Cool deal. All you need now is a USBpre2 in the mix you sync the clocks to each others decks and not lose the digi channels and run 16 channels. Ask him him about the NYE shows, I'd recommend not taping with Martini's ::) He'll explain.
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Joining the team. Due to arrive tomorrow. Plan to run it for Springfest next week and use the channel ganging feature to match gain on 4 channels for the Tetramic + SBD on 5 & 6. I'll probably run the R-44 as well for omni outriggers (and for redundancy options) rather than trying to tackle 8 channels with digital in.
I stopped actively following the DR-680 threads last fall so I have some reading to do, but have quick question if I may..
I'll be building a power cable for DVD batteries this weekend. Am I correct in reading from DR-680 battery options thread (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=135317.0) that the external power jack takes a Radio Shack 'size M' plug, tip positive? Anything else critical that I should know?
Planning on using several Trancend 32GB class 10 cards, but also have Kingstons as backup if needed.
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Type "M" I prefer right angle style over the straight. The digi in is simple. Warning: the default display shows mix on 7 & 8 you MUST go in and set it manually for "DIN MON" (digital monitor) one of the things they screwed up in the updates. it will not hold the DIN setting after power down. Have fun. Oh and @ 24 bit aim for the line on the display. it works out great
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Cool, thanks.
Looking forward to firing it up this weekend.
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Joining the team. Due to arrive tomorrow. Plan to run it for Springfest next week and use the channel ganging feature to match gain on 4 channels for the Tetramic + SBD on 5 & 6. I'll probably run the R-44 as well for omni outriggers (and for redundancy options) rather than trying to tackle 8 channels with digital in.
I stopped actively following the DR-680 threads last fall so I have some reading to do, but have quick question if I may..
I'll be building a power cable for DVD batteries this weekend. Am I correct in reading from DR-680 battery options thread (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=135317.0) that the external power jack takes a Radio Shack 'size M' plug, tip positive? Anything else critical that I should know?
Planning on using several Trancend 32GB class 10 cards, but also have Kingstons as backup if needed.
What is he refering to here "channel ganging feature to match gain on 4 channels" in the above statement. Was that one of the software upgrades?
Thanks.
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The v1.20 firmware update provides for quick 'linking' and 'unlinking' of channels so that gain (or pan) changes effect all channels in the group. It's one of the features I'm looking forward to on the DR-680.
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Type "M" I prefer right angle style over the straight. The digi in is simple. Warning: the default display shows mix on 7 & 8 you MUST go in and set it manually for "DIN MON" (digital monitor) one of the things they screwed up in the updates. it will not hold the DIN setting after power down. Have fun. Oh and @ 24 bit aim for the line on the display. it works out great
Is it normal or reverse polarity?
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The dc plug is normal polarity, tip positive.
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The dc plug is normal polarity, tip positive.
^ Yep! And the deck will run off 9 volt DVD battery. I have had discussion with friend about whether it supplies the full 48 volt 10mA phantom power. I never tested it but I have run mics that do want a full 10mA and they seem sound the same as when I run them on AC power. not a very technical test so YMMV.
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Oh and @ 24 bit aim for the line on the display. it works out great
Just opened the box. Haven't fired it up yet, but looking through the manual I can see the line you mention, what record level does the line represent?
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I'd have to double check but I believe it is -12 (dBfs)
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Just wondering. That's my guess as well and my prefered target.
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Just got my modded box back from Busman Audio yesterday. I'm gonna run it straight with m20's, m27's, & a soundboard patch for Moon Boot Lover on Fri. night @ the Stone Church in Newmarket, NH. I'll let you hear it once it's ready.
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Just got my modded box back from Busman Audio yesterday. I'm gonna run it straight with m20's, m27's, & a soundboard patch for Moon Boot Lover on Fri. night @ the Stone Church in Newmarket, NH. I'll let you hear it once it's ready.
^
Hell yeah. ;D
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I too have the busman modded 680, and I like the sound going straight in better than through my SD MixPre. Here's a test I did and made a video of:
http://www.vimeo.com/16681934
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Hey guys. I'm not so well versed on electrical things, so I have a question. I got a series 7 EX-L96 battery for my EX1 camera. It supplies the camera 14.4v power for the camera, and has a D-Tap jack to power lights and whatever 12-volt accessories I have.
Here's the battery: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/655645-REG/Switronix_EX_L96_EX_L96_14_4v_96W_Lithium_Ion.html
Is there any way I can use this battery to power the DR-680? The Tascam says "12v" on the power jack. Is there anything special I should be concerned about? A certain kind of cable you could suggest?
Thanks!
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I believe that 13v is the high end of the dc range. Might be risky, especially if your battery is even higher than 14.4v on a full charge.
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Type "M" tip center pin positive is all that you need to make 12volts work on the 680 power jack. Not familiar with those type of batteries or their connections.
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Oh and @ 24 bit aim for the line on the display. it works out great
I'd have to double check but I believe it is -12 (dBfs)
Noticed a little '16' next to the line on the display, so I assume the line indicates -16dBFS. Metering is not certainly one of the strongpoints of the recorder but does the job fine. I had no problems running six channels on it all last weekend- 4 with phatom power and two SBD. Pretty cool to gang the 4 mic channels to adjust their levels simultaneoulsly, gang the two SBD channels and get everything in the right neighborhood, then gang all six channels to adjust levels globally across all 6 channels using one knob, while retaining individual gain differences between channels.
The DR-680 It was just slightly hungrier than my Oade R-44, both running 4 channels of phantom yet the 680 recording two more channels- a single 9v DVD battery powered it all day for about 12 hours.
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OK 16 sure...now you're gonna make me go get mine and fire it up 8) Metering is ...odd. It really looks bad initially yet after you use it you realize that they set it up pretty well. You just have to get used to it. It does not have the great display the HD-P2 does but then again they fit 8 channels in a smaller space than that. I use the dvd batteries and like you said they hold up just fine. I usually run an SD MP-2 & 680 off the same battery.
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No need to fire it up, the '16' is printed on the display. ;)
Having a DR-2d designed around the same time period, I guess I expected similar metering with a level number displaying the highest peaking channel or in this case whatever channel might be solo'd, along with the multiple channel bar display. That numeric display comes in handy for things like matching levels more closely than the limited resolution of the bar displays. But it works fine.
Also ran cooler than the R-44 in the bag.
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I didn't search..... a friend is interested..... does a Tekkeon mate well with the 680? Thanks.
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Oh and @ 24 bit aim for the line on the display. it works out great
I'd have to double check but I believe it is -12 (dBfs)
Noticed a little '16' next to the line on the display, so I assume the line indicates -16dBFS. Metering is not certainly one of the strongpoints of the recorder but does the job fine. I had no problems running six channels on it all last weekend- 4 with phatom power and two SBD. Pretty cool to gang the 4 mic channels to adjust their levels simultaneoulsly, gang the two SBD channels and get everything in the right neighborhood, then gang all six channels to adjust levels globally across all 6 channels using one knob, while retaining individual gain differences between channels. The DR-680 It was just slightly hungrier than my Oade R-44, both running 4 channels of phantom yet the 680 recording two more channels- a single 9v DVD battery powered it all day for about 12 hours.
I need to read up on how to do this
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I need to read up on how to do this
Simple. You need to have the current firmware for the feature. Hit rec/pause and enter the channel trim display the same as you do now to adjust channel input levels one by one. Ordinarily you'd push the channel selection buttons one at a time to highlight and adjust the virtual control knob on the display one after the other until they are all adjusted correctly. To 'gang' any number of channels simply hold down the selection button for the first channel of the group you want to create, then before releasing it, push the selection button for the last channel of the group. When you do that, those two channels and any channels in-between them are ganged, and all of them are highlighted on the display and will be adjusted with a single knob turn. Pushing the selection button for any channel in the group then selects the entire group. Ungroup by doing the press and hold thing again for the first and last channels at each end of the group. At that point you can adjust channels individually or gang a different group of channels.
You can have more than one group at a time as long as the selections don't overlap, in other words, no channel can be included in more than one group. So you can make 3 separate stereo groups to have each adjustable as a pair, one big 6 channel group, or any combination of sequential channels you’d like.
You can have different gains within a group, simply by adjusting them before ganging. Once ganged those differences within the group are locked in and maintained, and the overall available adjustment range for the entire group becomes limited to the remaining range of the highest and lowest gains in the group.
In my example above, I'd first check to make sure the gains were equal on each of my mic channels 1-4, then group them and adjust them all simultaneously to my liking. Then I balanced the SBD inputs on channels 5-6 individually, then grouped them for a single stereo adjustment of SBD feed level. Once I had both the mics and SBD levels balanced well, I unganged those groups and made one big 6 channel group of all my inputs allowing me to quickly adjust everything at once. That way if an act like The Traveling McCoury's+LeeBoys followed Roy Bookbinder, I could quickly lower the gain across all 6 channels with one control knob without upsetting the balance between them.
Pretty cool and really only takes a few minutes of playing with it to figure it out.
Works the same way for the monitor levels and pan controls. M/S processing introduces some constraints since those channels are somewhat linked anyway, but I haven’t played around with any of that.
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Thats pretty badass that you can gang the channels like that :)
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Thats pretty badass that you can gang the channels like that :)
Yep, pretty BA. 8)
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Thats pretty badass that you can gang the channels like that :)
Yep, pretty BA. 8)
That feature plus the ability to pan during monitoring and/or the recording of stereo mix track are two of the of the biggest advantages over the R-44, IMO (besides the extra four channels, obviously).
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I still really, really like mine. It's a great recorder.
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I was recording a festival and only was using 4 channels with the stereo mix being sent to 7/8. I was surprised at how good the mix sounded. source: pair of omnis split 3.5' onstage + sbd
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Cool. I haven't used the stereo mix recorded to 7/8 yet, but 3'-4' Split omnis onstage + SBD is one of my favorite ways to go when available- simple, easy to balance and sounds great.
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Hello,
Sorry to come and disturb you in this long discussion ....I'm interested to buy a tascam DR 680....
Could you tell me if this recorder is able to record each track at a time during the playback of other tracks already recorded for the same project? (as does a Zoom H4n for example). This function interest me to make some musical composition on the way...
Thank you for your assitance!
(I've got already an Zoom H4 but I would like to have better preamps.)
P.S. Sorry for my bad english.
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Hi O.Dantes welcome to the forum,
No this recorder can only record and play back seperately. It cannot do both at the same time.
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:D
Hey, Great!
People answers quickly in this forum! :D
Thank you Gutbucket for your assistance!
Are you happy with the general "sound quality" of your recordings using the XLR's inputs? Don't you hear some "clock" sounds in the inputs 6 and 7 just behind the display...(someone reports this problem in a french forum...)?
In fact, I hesitate quite well with the Marantz PMD 661 (I know that in this last case, I have only 2 XLRs imputs, but the device is less cumbersome for "sounds hunting" on location, I would forget my idea of musical composition "on the way")
Would it be a great divide, between the 2 devices, in terms of sound quality due to higher sampling rate / frequency? (192HZ/24-bit for the tascam vs 96KHz/24-bit for the marantz), or due to basal noise of the device/preamps? Does anyone have reviews for a comparison? ???
Hi O.Dantes welcome to the forum,
No this recorder can only record and play back seperately. It cannot do both at the same time.
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I'm familiar with the PMD 661, but don't own one. I record nearly everything at 28bit/48kHz so I can't help on the higher sample rates (I'n a few listening tests, I personally have not heard a compelling reason for me to record at higher rates and the doubling or tripling of the amount of data generated is too much of a burden to me for little if any return).
Just ran the deck for the first time last weekend and haven't really listened to much of that yet, but I expect the preamps to be fine for what I'm recording, though I'm not sure of their ultimate noisefloor for nature and ambient recording if that is your interest. I expect the machine to sound as good as or better than the Marantz but others here have first hand experience with both and may be able to tell you more.
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I have never heard of a noise issue from the display on the 680. I know the edirol R-44 had been reported to have that issue by Doug Oade. I know that somewhere out there was a comparison of the a large number of digital recorders. I can't remember where, it wasn't on TS. What I do remember was that the on paper the 680 was only surpassed by the Sound Devices 744/788 series...(Maybe the 702 & 722 were the same too) I do not do any nature type recording. I have done some purely acoustic recordings in a fairly small room and even with cards at stage lip i still hear people shuffling their feet and creak of chairs coughs etc. Not a very scientific test but leads me to believe the preamps have nice range and detail. If I remember where I saw that listing or recorders I'll post the link here. Hope that helps. Oh and I have not used any marantz products so I cannot comment on the differences.
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Thank you very much, it's really nice from you to answer me. I am pleased with your positive opinion on the DR 680! ::)
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Brand new owner of a DR-680. I have been considering it for quite sometime. I plan to use it for location (music) recording activities as well as my regular job which is audio post for teevee.
It get's its baptism this coming week first on a couple of small TV projects and then a Thursday evening concert in a small very reverberant chapel.
Question for the experts. I have a Lexicon Omega usb interface that has s/pdif I-O. Since the Omega can act as a pass through mic pre-amp as well as a computer interface I'm wondering if anybody has used an Omega to feed the digital ins on the DR-680 for microphone sources? I know that the Omega pre is not quite as nice as a DAV Broadhurst Gardens for example. But I just want to know if anyone has tried this with an Omega or something similar to it?
Thanks. Looking to contribute when I can!
W26
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I don't know the Omega stuff. The catch for the 680 is the way it sees and reads the incoming digital stream. To break it down to plain english terms....the 680 reads the info attached to the digital feed(the header) it DOES NOT read the actual digital information itself. So there are some preamps that will not work with the 680. The Audient Mico is an example of this.
The preamp you have is not one that a lot of tapers use, so the two best suggestions I have for you are to do search of the Live Music Archive for that preamp paired with the 680, or just hook it up and see if it gives you a DIN lock. If you get a lock then it will work and that is the easiest way to check IMO.
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I have to use 2 S/PDIF cables plugged in at the same time, each way to get my Metric Halo ULN-2 Firewire to DIN Lock with it consistently at all sample rates- and to be able to use and change all sample rates on the fly at will etc. S/PDIF - ULN-2>DR-680, DR-680>ULN-2. Everything works great now.
I posted this - reply #142 here and on a thread on GS:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=141730.135
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/remote-possibilities-acoustic-music-location-recording/588088-uln-2-into-tascam-dr-680-how.html
p.s Although this question was for experts - I'm definitely no expert - but I thought this might help you to trouble shoot if it doesn't work for you the first time.
Jay
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If any of you guys want to hear the Busman mod, I posted a copy of my first run with it here.
It's just m27's, m20's and the soundboard into the analog inputs.
Mixed: 60% omni/40% card, then mic mix 65%/ sbd 35%.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=144288.0
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I like those percentages.
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Does the digital input need to be set to be the same bit depth/sample rate as the recoding setup for analog channels 1-6? Would like to use an SBM-1 with the digital input but am recording everything going directly into the 680, obviously, at 24 bits.
What's the end-result of the digital channels? 24 bit with 8 zeros appended?
What if I'm set to 96kHz on the deck, but 48kHz on the SBM?
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You could send a 16 bit signal into the 680 when it is set for 24 bit. It will just add zeros. But you CANNOT send a 48Hz signal into the 680 if it is set for 96Hz. It will not give you a digital lock. IMHO 24/48 is not too big a difference than 24/96. I don't think the extra space it requires is worth it. YMMV
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Thanks for the info on being unable to digi lock!
IMHO 24/48 is not too big a difference than 24/96. I don't think the extra space it requires is worth it. YMMV
I totally agree, but wanted to throw this out there as a reasonable plausible scenario. I actually still prefer 44.1 as resampling is one of my least favorite processes. Ten years ago I was using a Zefiro ZA2 to hardware resample and now feel those transfers are almost unlistenable. Software resampling is obviously much better (I prefer r8brain), but it will never be perfect.
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Well I pulled the trigger and ordered the 680 from B and H photo.... 799 and they include the case (CSDR-680) Seemed like the best deal.... Same day music advertised they would beat any deal by 5% When I told them the b&h offer they said they did not carry the case but would sell me the 680 for 724... (I wanted the case) This is to replace my R4 (with Bussman mods and 80gb fast drive) It has been a brick... I sometimes tho need the extra channels and the on the fly mix.
looking forward to long relationship with this one.
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Good deal with a case. Your gonna want to sell that R-4 >:D
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I wanted to share a recording made Thursday (4-7) evening. I recorded a concert for the Lone Star Uke group at the Interfaith Peace Chapel in Dallas.
The featured player is Kemo Hussey (who is well known in the uke community). Mics used were an Sennheiser MKH 40 on uke, MKH 40 on harp and a KM84 on the bass.
Ambience/Crowd were a pair of MKH 40s in XY.
All the mics went directly to the DR-680. Raw files were imported into PTHD for mixing. The room was live, I didn't add any reverb.
Enjoy!
W26
http://www.divshare.com/download/14524619-a33
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Great recording.....
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Great stuff!
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Every time I listen to something that is just 680 preamps I get reminded how nice they sound on their own. nice work
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Thanks. I recorded the concert so the group can sell CD's to raise funds for a program called "Ukes In Schools." I was amazed at how good the folks featured in this concert were, since many of the pieces were classical in nature, not something you'd expect on the ukelele.
I've got to admit the DR-680 will open up some new avenues for me. While I've spent the bulk of my career in audio post production I still enjoy going out and pressing the record button on live stuff.
FWIW my first "rig" was a Tandberg quarter track RTR and a pair of AKG D-200 microphones, 40 years ago!
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The Unit just arrived... Much smaller than I thought.. case is tight but sweet. More to follow
Bought a 16gb class 6 card and popped it in... Menus are straight forward... Need to hook up signals and play..
(so this is love ??)
I've had the unit out the last two nights... I have yet to read the manual so there were a few "bumps" First night I recorded to "stereo" tracks 1/2,3/4,5/6 and I freaked out about space and didn't record the mix past the first set.... Last night I recorded 6 "mono" tracks AND the mix. (Stage L , Stage R , SBD , all other vocals (aux) , star vocals , lead guitar , Stereo mix) Both nights came out great although I to jump thru hoops in post to separate the stereo tracks from the first night... I think the mix will be good as is from the 2nd night.
(This IS Love)
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I am having a problem with the 2 GB limit and the tascam. I want files shorter then 2 GB, for 2 reasons
1) My software only opens files up to 2 GB.
2) when I write to dvds it is easier to group files around 1 gb then 2 GB files.
Is there a way to have the DR-680 make a new file but have it seemless while recording?
In other words, let say I am recording and its been 35 minutes, can I hit a button and then have it create a new file without missing any music and the new file created would be seamless with the one before.
What I was doing is hit "pause at 35 minutes" then hit record as fast as I can. This caused gaps between the 2 files.
Am I missing something here?
On page 34 for pre-recording it states:
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the unit can record up to 2 seconds before the start of the recording and include it in the recording...
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Won't this overlap the 2 files?
On page 32 of the manual it states:
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You can mannually create a new take during recording at any time.
Press the REC key during recording to create a new take and continue recording.
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So if I understand correctly what is stated above:
All I need to do is hit the "record" button and then it will create a new file without loss of data.
Is that correct?
Thanks!!!
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@phil_er_up
Manual file splits by pressing the record button should be seamless, tmk. Pre-recording is not in effect once you are in record mode, so there won't be overlap between the files.
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Also posted in the powering forum
Go to ebay and search for sale # 280641111464 This is a 6800mah Li
Battery I think this would work out of the box. It is cheap but it IS in
Hong Kong... (puts us all on a level field) I'm going to try it.... Brian
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Also posted in the powering forum
Go to ebay and search for sale # 280641111464 This is a 6800mah Li
Battery I think this would work out of the box. It is cheap but it IS in
Hong Kong... (puts us all on a level field) I'm going to try it.... Brian
Brian, let us know what you think after you use that battery for a while.
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I bought one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160438173336&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
but only using it for my USBPre2 so far. I want to try it with the pre and the 680. One thing you will not like is the lack of any kind of charge indicator
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I bought one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160438173336&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
but only using it for my USNPre2 so far. I want to try it with the pre and the 680. One thing you will not like is the lack of any kind of charge indicator
This is the same battery I use with my DR680. It's been reliable, so far.
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I bought one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160438173336&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
but only using it for my USNPre2 so far. I want to try it with the pre and the 680. One thing you will not like is the lack of any kind of charge indicator
This is the same battery I use with my DR680. It's been reliable, so far.
How long did you run it? How many channels did you use? Was phantom power on?
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Anyone use a Kingston 32 gig class 6 sd card?
On sale for $50 at buy.com today, thinking about doing it...
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I have a couple Kingston 32GB class 4 cards which have had no problems doing 6 x 24/48.
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@phil_er_up
Manual file splits by pressing the record button should be seamless, tmk. Pre-recording is not in effect once you are in record mode, so there won't be overlap between the files.
Exactly what I was going to say. Thats how the 722 does it too!
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Anyone use a Kingston 32 gig class 6 sd card?
On sale for $50 at buy.com today, thinking about doing it...
A buddy of mine uses a 32gb kingston class 6 card in his 680 and has no issues. I bought the class 10 kingston since it was only 4 dollars more at newegg and have had enough issues with it that I don't use it anymore. I figured I'd be safe w/ a class 10 and have faster xfers but my 680 doesn't like it. Sometimes I got a card error on the screen, and another time I thought it recorded OK but had hick-ups every couple of seconds on playback.
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I bought one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160438173336&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
but only using it for my USNPre2 so far. I want to try it with the pre and the 680. One thing you will not like is the lack of any kind of charge indicator
This is the same battery I use with my DR680. It's been reliable, so far.
How long did you run it? How many channels did you use? Was phantom power on?
Well, the longest I've had occasion to run it so far was about 2.5 hours with 6 channels (4 channels phantom and 2 channels line in) at 24/48. Since there's no battery meter I had no way of knowing how close I came to draining the thing.
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Anyone use a Kingston 32 gig class 6 sd card?
On sale for $50 at buy.com today, thinking about doing it...
Have kingston 32 GB class 4 SD card and have run 24/96 with 6 channels no problem.
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@phil_er_up
Manual file splits by pressing the record button should be seamless, tmk. Pre-recording is not in effect once you are in record mode, so there won't be overlap between the files.
Exactly what I was going to say. Thats how the 722 does it too!
PM sent to bean!!
Thanks Bean and others for their comments.
Will try the record button to create new files...
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I bought one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160438173336&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
but only using it for my USNPre2 so far. I want to try it with the pre and the 680. One thing you will not like is the lack of any kind of charge indicator
This is the same battery I use with my DR680. It's been reliable, so far.
How long did you run it? How many channels did you use? Was phantom power on?
Well, the longest I've had occasion to run it so far was about 2.5 hours with 6 channels (4 channels phantom and 2 channels line in) at 24/48. Since there's no battery meter I had no way of knowing how close I came to draining the thing.
I have two of these and I have run it for 6.5 hours and then stopped it, but I don't know how much juice it had left. That time I had two channels with phantom power.
I have used them in really cold weather and they work fine.
There is a problem with both of them that is annoying...
When I switch it on and have it close to 680 there is a signal that gets recorded... I don't have to have it connected to 680. I can hear the signal just holding it close to my ear.
It ruins the recordings... getting a signal at 4000, 8000, 12000, 16000hz and so on...
The problem is solved by getting the battery away from 680 and a 1/2 meter is enough. The default cable must be stretched fully to avoid the signal. I have made my own cable now with angled connectors and it's a bit longer than the cable that came with the battery.
It's a drawback to not be able to have it in the same case. Especially when both of them fitted in the extra pocket on the 680 case. I just have to remember to take them out and put them away from the recorder when i use them.
Does anyone know how to fix this? It guess it's the on/off switch that is bad. I haven't opened them up yet.
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That is because of the regulator circuit for the +9v and +5v... just the straight battery would be better
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@phil_er_up
Manual file splits by pressing the record button should be seamless, tmk. Pre-recording is not in effect once you are in record mode, so there won't be overlap between the files.
Exactly what I was going to say. Thats how the 722 does it too!
PM sent to bean!!
Thanks Bean and others for their comments.
Will try the record button to create new files...
No problem, glad to help ya out ;)
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I bought one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160438173336&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
but only using it for my USBPre2 so far. I want to try it with the pre and the 680. One thing you will not like is the lack of any kind of charge indicator
I don't mean to get off topic but does anyone know if this could be used to power the UA-5?
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should work but Edirol needs negative center pin
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Tested out pressing the "RECORD" button on the tascam DR680.
Anytime you push record while recording the tascam will create a NEW seemless file.
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PS: Found out if I don't power things up (batteries/preamp and recorder)in a certain order the tascam DR680 does not see the incoming signal correctly from the V3. Channel 1&2 were connected to the V3 and channel one kept overloading even at 0 DB for output on the V3 knob for that channel. I reconnected all wires in back and the SPIDF was not tightly screwed on. So retighten SPIDF and reconnected. Then repowered up v3 and tascam and channel one was not overloading.
Good stuff. Thought one DPA was having a problem but it was PILOT error...
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A recent issue has developed with my 680. My analog input #2 has dropped by 10db. Anyone run into this?
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A recent issue has developed with my 680. My analog input #2 has dropped by 10db. Anyone run into this?
You probably did this already, but double check your mic/line, hi/low gain switches on the top of the unit. One of those may have just gotten bumped.
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A recent issue has developed with my 680. My analog input #2 has dropped by 10db. Anyone run into this?
You probably did this already, but double check your mic/line, hi/low gain switches on the top of the unit. One of those may have just gotten bumped.
thanks, but it isn't that, the limiter, cables or mics.
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any chance something got changed by menu selection? IE: limiter. Just guessing at this point.
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checked all that unless there is something else i am missing. Smokinjoe suggested cleaning the contacts but I haven't tried that yet.
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ted, have you checked the whole chain? caps>mics>cables?
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Yeah. When I first noticed it I was running analog from the v3. The v3 meters were spot on running my 414s but the 680 meters were off. I switched to channels 3-4 on the 680 and bingo, no issue. There is definitely something going on with analog input 2 on my 680.
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I've experienced similar behavior on my 680... and iirc it was on channels 3 and 4. Huge differences in the metering.
It went away after powering down, unplugging everything, and then booting back up. It seems like the order in which you plugs things in and turn on phantom, mic/line settings, etc. seem to affect operation. Sorry I can't really be anymore specific, but if we experience it again we'll take better notes.
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When I had my deck modded by Chris Johnson from Busman Audio, I believe he told me that the XLR inputs that Tascam uses are pretty much meh. I've loved my mod, I'd highly recommend it.
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It's been a ongoing issue for atleast the last month.
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It's been a ongoing issue for atleast the last month.
Damn, I'm sorry to hear that Ted.
I hope it's a simple fix.
Please let us know how this issue resolves.
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Yeah sorry to hear that Ted, on-going intermittant problems really suck. Does the problem seem to correct itself with a power cycle like hi and lo reports?
Myco, does Chris change out the XLR jacks as part of his mod?
What else can you tell us about it? Sensitivity change, reduced noise floor, sonic flavor direction?
At some point I'd love to hear a good comp of a stock vs Busman modded deck.
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This discussion makes me wonder. I've had several instances in the field of one channel being lower, but I haven't been able to figure out what the cause was.
When I've had the instances of a low channel volume, it always has been at shows, and my only motivation at that point was to get things working. After trying different things to narrow it down (switching cables/mics, taking outboard preamps out of the chain, whatever), I've always gotten it working so I could record the concert.
After the concert, I'd go home and try to figure out the cause, and never was finding the problem. Since I could never replicate the problem at home, I've been assuming it is an intermittent problem, and have been presuming a cable issue. I've got several pairs of cables I've been treating as suspect, and have taken to bringing extra sets of XLR ICs with me to shows for backup.
Bummer to think it is the 680, but from this thread I'm not sure if an instance of low volume in one channel has something to do with how everything is set up with the 680 (order of wiring up, menu selections, whatever) or if it indicates a problem with the 680, or whether it can even be traced to the 680.
For now, I'll continue to use my Sony D50 as a back-up recorder. Bummer to feel this way, esp since it may not be the 680 at fault, but the experiences people are having do make you wonder. Too bad, a great piece of gear in all other respects.
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I've experienced similar behavior on my 680... and iirc it was on channels 3 and 4. Huge differences in the metering.
It went away after powering down, unplugging everything, and then booting back up. It seems like the order in which you plugs things in and turn on phantom, mic/line settings, etc. seem to affect operation. Sorry I can't really be anymore specific, but if we experience it again we'll take better notes.
I had a similar problem recently. Channel one was overloading on the Dr680 with huge spikes and the V3 meters was normal. I did a complete dismantle of every cord and found the SPIDF was not screwed in properly. Then it worked with no overloading of channel one.
I do agree with the statement above about booting up. I was running 4 mics and SBD feed at the time. Every time I made a change on the DR680 I powered off the big box preamp (one set of mics) and the V3 (other set of mics). I would take the XLR's out of the V3 digital and put it in the analog and retry the whole sequence again. Also swapping out channel 1 and 2 with the digital channel 5&6 on the DR680. Then I found if I did not do a certain order the DR680 did not seem to respond correctly.
That was the last time I recorded and wanted to do more tests before I brought this subject up. I thought it appropriate here. I think the order to power up machines that worked was BB, V3, then DR-680. I had to change the Digital channel each time on the Dr-680 from analog to digital to see if the spidf was working properly. I tried this many times before I got it to work.
This was with 10 minutes to go before the band starting...but finally got it all working correctly. No overload in channel one due to either SPIDF connection or powering sequence is what I determined so far. First I thought something happened to one of my mics and sure glad that was not the case....so many times it can be so many different possibilities with all the preamps, recorders, cables etc that we hook up.
I still not sure if it is a DR680 problem or not...this thread makes me want to lean one way thou. Will have to do more tests to be sure for myself.
PS: I always thought the XLR connections were not very good on the DR680. I have many audio pieces at home with XLR's inputs/outputs and they are built so much better. They just snap right in and fit seems really good on my home audio gear the DR680 XLR connections DO NOT FEEL THAT WAY TO ME.
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I have the Busman mod on my DR-680. I don’t think the mod affects the color of the pres at all it just opens them up for better soundstage and detail while bringing the noise floor down. If anything on the tone, the mod makes the response more flat therefore more transparent.
I don't have a before/after mod comparison, but I did do a little test comparing mics going into the 680 straight vs. through a MixPre. I think I liked the sound going in straight better.
Here's my test: http://www.vimeo.com/16681934
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I have totally narrowed it down to channel 2 of the 680 and it is constant.
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I have totally narrowed it down to channel 2 of the 680 and it is constant.
Damn. Really sorry to hear that.
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Yeah sorry to hear that Ted, on-going intermittant problems really suck. Does the problem seem to correct itself with a power cycle like hi and lo reports?
Myco, does Chris change out the XLR jacks as part of his mod?
What else can you tell us about it? Sensitivity change, reduced noise floor, sonic flavor direction?
At some point I'd love to hear a good comp of a stock vs Busman modded deck.
Sorry, my bad, it was not the XLR jacks. Here is what Chris modded for me, "The mod is a change of all the input op amps and all of the input capacitors. I change the values of the input caps and use elna silmic II caps which have a nice detailed but warm tone not to be confused with a warm type mod." So maybe it's related to faulty input op amps? That would make more sense that the XLR jack itself, correct? I would think that an XLR problem would be exibited more by static or a not working at all, rather than a drop in gain. Since the op-amps provide gain, a faulty one would drop, or cause a spike in, the gain I would think. I'm nowhere near an expert on any of this, but logic would point this way.
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I can tell you that the internal circuit boards including the one that houses the XLR/TRS inputs connect to each other via a flat plastic strip connector that makes it's connections via pressure by a hold down tab. it is not even ribbon cable but a plastic film with metal contacts on it. Maybe the internal connection is not "great" ? BUT to check or reseat the connections would require you to basically dismantle your 680. Unless you are comfortable doing open heart surgery on your deck I would not recommend trying it.
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I had a dropout on channel one on Wed night. It only happened in the second set. kind of weird. it is the first time that has ever happened. I wonder what the deal is.
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Man, reading this thread is not good publicity for Tascam. :o Just confirms why I will never part with my 744.
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Man, reading this thread is not good publicity for Tascam. :o Just confirms why I will never part with my 744.
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Man, reading this thread is not good publicity for Tascam. :o Just confirms why I will never part with my 744.
OK so let me get this right. A total of three people have had an issue. And now you are will to condemn the piece and only go with a Sound Devices unit? so if I follow that logic then because Sound Devices USBPre2 had problems then it must be bad too? what's to say that there were not some issues when the first 744's hit the streets just like the Usbpre'2? Man that is snap judgment on a tiny percentage of the market. Yeah for the interweb. I personally LOVE my 680. Have never had a problem and would buy another in a heartbeat
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actually if you read the reviews on B&H (I know that's not a true indicator) alot of folks are having problems with the 680
myself, I grew tired of the battery problems and having to carry so much extra weight for the amount of multichannel recording I do
if in the future I need to do alot more multichannel recording, I'll just save up for a SD unit
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darby, I don't mean to put ya down but there is only ONE review that is about a unit not working right. So I wouldn't call that " a lot of people". There is another about the M/S not working but that could easily be operator trouble. Of the thirteen reviews there, the most common complaint is about the plastic case and some complaints about how the functions work which are personal preferences about design issues not about decks having actual problems.
this is a perfect example of how one problem listed on another website now becomes "a lot of people having problems" And then someone reads it here and then it becomes "everyone is having problems with those units" type of thing. I just think people are way too quick to pass a judgement about a piece of gear based on one persons post. Like you said yourself B&H is not true indicator. And I'd still cite a similar situation...since the Sound Devices preamp that came out had a problem is that now a good reason to not ever buy one?
To each their own. Everyone like different gear for different reasons. These reviews are helpful. But only to the point where it should lead you to do your own research and check facts rather than a blanket statement to not buy something just because you read it on that there interweb
Oh and I'll give you the argument about AA battery life, but since I only have used external Li-Ion I cannot relate to those problems. A single DVD battery runs this thing longer than I have ever needed it to run and the weight of that is about the same as eight AA battereis.
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I use my 680 without issue, and the thing sounds frickin' amazing. If I could get an equivalent from SD I would, but then we're at a bit of a higher price point aren't we? Also you are not getting much (if any ) bump in sound quality, only functionality and robustness. You must remember that people who buy stuff that works - don't usually go on forums and write anything. It's people with issues that go search out forums. These forums consist of geeks that just love gear and people with questions, and most of the problems are user error. Also you'll need a big battery to run an SD recorder just like one should be using with the 680 (rather than stupid AA's). And finally, I bet if you scour SD forums, you will also find issues with different devises mentioned on forums from users just like here.
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out of 13 reviews on B&H I counted 3 that had 3 stars or less... not exactly what I would call rave reviews
the battery life of "AA"s is pathetic at best and I even had trouble with the Initials when I needed over 4 hours
I also had trouble with the Tekkeon before buying the extended pack
so with a V3 I was carrying what I felt was WAY TOO MUCH weight in batteries
I was running 2 preamps as well with it because I preferred the sound to the the stock preamps on the 680
some folks don't mind carrying that much, but I definitely felt a huge weight off my back (shoulder) when I ditched the 680 & V3
what soured me on the 680 was the wallwart was DOA when I received the unit and it took almost 2 months to get a new one
then, just after the 90 day warranty ran out the MAIN BOARD took a SHIT and I had to wait 2 more months before getting a replacement
as far as the 744... you don't need an external battery with it, the largest battery for it last quite awhile
but I can't really afford one at the moment, so I'll leave that subject alone
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my $.02 worth on this.
I'm one of the people on this thread that had a problem with my recorder.
The night mine died, I used an Energizer energi to go battery pack that has separate 5v, 12v and 20v outputs. It was the first time I had used that battery with my DR-680.
When the recorder was not working properly that night, I started checking all the cables. I pulled out the power cable and plugged it back in. I don't know for sure what outlet on the battery pack I originally had it plugged into, as it was dark and the battery is black with small lettering on the outputs. So, I think there's a chance that I briefly sent it 20v rather than 12v. :-[
Mine was still covered by the Tascam labor warranty. So, I happily sent it to Tascam and paid the parts cost to get it fixed. I still love my DR-680. So, keep that in mind when assessing the reports of problems with the Tascam DR-680.
Now, I have taped off the 20v output on that battery pack. 8)
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Hey Darby what multi-track recorder are you using instead of the 680 now?
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Hey Darby what multi-track recorder are you using instead of the 680 now?
I recently bought the Tascam DR-2d for the few times I run SBD/AUD and had battery trouble with it as well >:(
before that I was using 2 units (M10 & P2 or 2 M10s) and dealing with that nightmare in post
when I had the 680 I was running 2 pairs of mics and SBD (1 pair for MTX & 1 pair for AUD only)
but tired really quickly of all the weight in batteries/preamps and mics/caps
if I was doing real multichannel recording like others do I wouldn't screw around with the DR-2d
but it seems like a nice little unit for the few times I can run SBD as well... I just need to figure out a battery solution for it
my thing right now is... the smaller the better, and I wasn't getting that with the 680 plus 2 external pres and batteries
EDIT:
sorry for bringing up your problems Chuck
I guess with all the trouble I had... your problems just reinforced my feelings
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EDIT:
sorry for bringing up your problems Chuck & Ted
I guess with all the trouble I had... your problems just reinforced my feelings
No sweat Darby!
I just wanted to make it a bit clearer what happened in my case.
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Kirk, read Gearslutz. Tapersection.com is not the market for this machine. FYI Not sure why yer jumping on me. I had issues with my R4 from day 1. I know of what I speak. And I was one of those few who had issues apparently. Doesn't matter.
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I had issues with my R4 from day 1.
Yup - My R-4 had input #4 out of phase (reverse polarity) compared to the other three inputs. ::)
Same on all early machines, I think.
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Kirk, read Gearslutz. Tapersection.com is not the market for this machine. FYI Not sure why yer jumping on me. I had issues with my R4 from day 1. I know of what I speak. And I was one of those few who had issues apparently. Doesn't matter.
I had to go back and reread that reply and it does seem like I was addressing you personally. Sorry I was really trying to make a general point about the comments being made. It was not aimed at you personally. But it is the things like I saw it had a three star rating...so an assumption was made that there were "a lot of people having problems" with the deck when in reality it wasn't that way
Screw gearslutz. Don't even get me started on them. I have almost no respect for what gets posted over there. That place just more and more screwed up as time goes by.
R-4?? I'm confused
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Shipped my 680 to Chris at Busman today. I was able to work around my issue by running that channel hotter with a stereo pair on 1&2 but typically I would just use that channel for a direct out from the SBD. Figured I would go for all 6 channel mods from Chris since the difference between 2 & 6 channels was $125. Regardless of the issue I had I have no regrets going from an R44 to a DR-680. Me love 8 channles ;D
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Shipped my 680 to Chris at Busman today. I was able to work around my issue by running that channel hotter with a stereo pair on 1&2 but typically I would just use that channel for a direct out from the SBD. Figured I would go for all 6 channel mods from Chris since the difference between 2 & 6 channels was $125. Regardless of the issue I had I have no regrets going from an R44 to a DR-680. Me love 8 channles ;D
Nice. Best of luck Ted!
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Shipped my 680 to Chris at Busman today. I was able to work around my issue by running that channel hotter with a stereo pair on 1&2 but typically I would just use that channel for a direct out from the SBD. Figured I would go for all 6 channel mods from Chris since the difference between 2 & 6 channels was $125. Regardless of the issue I had I have no regrets going from an R44 to a DR-680. Me love 8 channles ;D
Shit, I feel over exerted just running 4 channels :P ;D
That's why I am just running MBHO>LB>M10 for festies/Phish tour. I hope I dont regret leaving the 722 behind :(
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I was looking at what I recorded the other night and the wav forms look like there was limiting... (flat tops) I thought crap... I must have left that turned on... last night I was very careful to make sure there was no limiting on and one channel of the five I recorded look this way. Please say it ain't so... I love this machine.. I've pulled gold with it but I'm scared. Also I have to format the card every time or I get a write delay (press enter) when I do the little "buffering" thing on the display starts and nothing works till I pull a battery. I haven't upgraded the firmware so I guess thats the first thing to do.
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Sounds like they wanted to release it before all the "bugs" were worked out :(
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All this talk of bad units has me scared... Its like having a girlfriend who you know is crazy but you love her anyway. Happy to report that since I flashed the 680 with the latest firmware there has been no gremlins... Both Rad shows in Minny came out perfect. Another local show had no problems. Whew.Is there anybody else that is running theirs and having no problems?? I do recommend keeping the internal batteries in and charged (seems to like that) (I love seamless switching fro internal to external power) Also I find that formatting the card before each show is prudent (likes that too)
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All this talk of bad units has me scared... Its like having a girlfriend who you know is crazy but you love her anyway. Happy to report that since I flashed the 680 with the latest firmware there has been no gremlins... Both Rad shows in Minny came out perfect. Another local show had no problems. Whew.Is there anybody else that is running theirs and having no problems?? I do recommend keeping the internal batteries in and charged (seems to like that) (I love seamless switching fro internal to external power) Also I find that formatting the card before each show is prudent (likes that too)
I've had zero issues with mine. My only "complaint" is being unable to monitor the SPDIF and the analog inputs simultaneously, which is of course a design issue, not a failure. Otherwise, it's been very, very good for me.
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Knock on wood, my unit has run perfectly. I've run it on internal and external batterys and used up to 6 channels with phantom power on and every show has been no problem. I have not updated the firmware yet from when I got it either. I really do love this unit and sure hope it lasts a long time. I think it sounds really good.
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No probelms with mine that I've noticed either. I immediately updated the firmware right out of the box to get the channel ganging feature and have used it pretty hard since, with phantom on channels 1-4 and either analog in to 5/6 or digital in to sync it with the R44.
I still mean to check channel sensitivities with a signal generator just to make sure everything is up to spec before I'm out of warranty.
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yep no issues with mine either. Nearly always running a full 8 channels in a variety of configurations. Would buy another without hesitation. The deck has great sound with a great feature set all for a great price.
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My only "complaint" is being unable to monitor the SPDIF and the analog inputs simultaneously, which is of course a design issue, not a failure. Otherwise, it's been very, very good for me.
Wait, what? I swear I was looking at both the other night. SPDIF on 5 & 6, Analog on 1-4. I thought when you switched to digital monitor, it was just switching from mix to digital on 7 & 8.
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I've had absolutely no issues with mine for the last year or so..
Original firmware and generally only format to make space on a card.
This thing is fantastic.
I typically run v3 digi into 7+8 to keep 5+6 free for analog inputs.
Monitoring the spdif input (toggle MIX MON and DIN MON) along with other channels works fine - but I can't solo the spdif this way.
Its an inconvenience I currently work around using the v3's analog output into a mini headphone amp.
Unless I'm missing something..?
Funny enough, I record a 20-piece jazz orchestra every second week and I got them dialed in - now all I use is one pair of mics clamped by a 2-channel snake I installed in the sweet spot for that gig.
These guys sound fantastic - wildly dynamic and they blast out at 110db routinely with no amplification and the tapes turn out just excellent!
The biggest band needs the least set up :)
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Wow, that's cool. I aspire to recording an orchestra. I haven't done that yet. Maybe some day...
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My only "complaint" is being unable to monitor the SPDIF and the analog inputs simultaneously, which is of course a design issue, not a failure. Otherwise, it's been very, very good for me.
Wait, what? I swear I was looking at both the other night. SPDIF on 5 & 6, Analog on 1-4. I thought when you switched to digital monitor, it was just switching from mix to digital on 7 & 8.
It is switching, but the mix only has the analog channels in it. I don't think it matters whether you have the SPDIF assigned to 5/6 or 7/8 . . . So you can A/B the analog mix and the SPDIF, but you can't hear the digital signal mixed with the analog.
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Funny enough, I record a 20-piece jazz orchestra every second week and I got them dialed in - now all I use is one pair of mics clamped by a 2-channel snake I installed in the sweet spot for that gig.
These guys sound fantastic - wildly dynamic and they blast out at 110db routinely with no amplification and the tapes turn out just excellent!
The biggest band needs the least set up :)
What kinds of mics are you using?
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Hey rastasean, its tough to really capture a band that big but its a bi-weekly gig so I tried a bunch of variations.
In the end I found a really cool synergy between the band, the room, and DIN mk5 cardioids looking down on the front line saxophones from about 12 feet up, 25ish feet back, so I installed a snake to a light rail nearby and reach the mics over there with a little extension bar.
Its kind of a sonic focal point of the room with tons of direct sound and schoeps cards are great at rejecting rearward kitchen/bar/reverberant/etc sounds while reaching right into the back rows of the band to capture all sorts of nuance and detail.
The complete signal path would be mk5 (set to card) > cmr > pfa > 2-chnl snake > v3 > spdif > dr-680
Chuck, its definitely been a blessing.
They play 100% new material every two weeks and just completely nail it..
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Ok, so I thought my first project with the 680 was flawless from last Friday (Warren @ Orpheum Boston). Ran 4 channels 3 & 4 direct and dig in via the V3. Great recording until I got around to mixing down and processing the 2nd set this past weekend and realized a segment of the file toward the end (approx 12 minutes) has intermittent clipping. But then the final 5 minutes of the encore is fine. I have narrowed it down to the direct source (ch 3 & 4) as only that source and the mixdown have the problem but the stereo channels/tracks are fine. As such I figure it must be the 3 & 4 pres or maybe the card. I was careful with the card purchase and bought one of the 32 gig sanctioned cards from the tascam list and formatted prior to use so leaning away from that being the issue. Also I was using a dvd 9 v battery that had plenty of power remaining at the end. Any ideas what it might be would be appreciated. Next up is Mtn Jam on 6/4 so it will get a good work out and I will be sure to monitor and troubleshoot starting with trying channels 1 & 2 for the direct source. Again, glad I bought the B & H extended plan, but hopefully won't need it. . .
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Ok, so I thought my first project with the 680 was flawless from last Friday (Warren @ Orpheum Boston). Ran 4 channels 3 & 4 direct and dig in via the V3. Great recording until I got around to mixing down and processing the 2nd set this past weekend and realized a segment of the file toward the end (approx 12 minutes) has intermittent clipping. But then the final 5 minutes of the encore is fine. I have narrowed it down to the direct source (ch 3 & 4) as only that source and the mixdown have the problem but the stereo channels/tracks are fine. As such I figure it must be the 3 & 4 pres or maybe the card. I was careful with the card purchase and bought one of the 32 gig sanctioned cards from the tascam list and formatted prior to use so leaning away from that being the issue. Also I was using a dvd 9 v battery that had plenty of power remaining at the end. Any ideas what it might be would be appreciated. Next up is Mtn Jam on 6/4 so it will get a good work out and I will be sure to monitor and troubleshoot starting with trying channels 1 & 2 for the direct source. Again, glad I bought the B & H extended plan, but hopefully won't need it. . .
Ran the 680 3 times this past week.
1) First time was running 680 with channels 1,2,3,4 from a Naint Big Box and V3 with 2 sets of DPA mics. No problems all files came out. Recording sounded really good and no clipping on 680.
2) Second time running 680 was with 6 channels 1,2,3,4,5,6. Channels 1-4 for 2 sets of mics (front of lip) and channels 5-6 for SBD patch. Channel 1 was overloading ONLY at end of show for about 15 minutes. Almost like levels double and clipping happens all the time on 680. I did not notice the V3 having problems. In wavelab listend to channel 1 and clipping sounded like constant digi-noise.
3) Third time running 680 was with 6 channels 1,2,3,4,5,6. Channels 1-4 for 2 sets of mics (front of lip) and channels 5-6 for SBD patch. This time it was Channel 3 was overloading for most of the show. Did notice this time big jumps in the V3 that I never noticed before. Was recording with first 2 greens lights on v3 and occasionally hitting 3rd green light then all of a sudden it just jumped into the first red light and occasionally the second red light. Like a 10 - 20 DB gain or more. None of the other channels showed this behavior. When listening in wavelab channel three sounded like complete garbage no music at all just digi-noise during the times it clips. First 5 minutes sounded fine thou with channel 3.
Comments:
The above never happens with the Big box only with v3. I believe during the 3rd night I switched the mics from the second night so it would make sense that channel 1 and 3 problems experienced above are probably the same mic. Think the first night the music was not that loud and mics might just not had enough SPL to clip V3/mics/680 pres. The second and third nights the music was very loud on stage with front of lip recording.
Was not really sure what was happening?
(Still not sure if its the my mics, cables, V3 or 680?)
Mics: DPA4022 and 4027
Cables: Most brand new from tgladis
V3 I bought new about 2 years ago.
Card is kingston 32GB class4 (also have 2 16 GB kingston Class 4 cards)
Batteries for 680 is a tekkon with extended battery pack and is set to 12 volts.
Batteries: V3 is set to 6 volt and runs off a single tekkeon
(I live in boulder and had grace change the V3 from 12 volt to 6 volt due to it was really hot in a fanny pack during recording, so he said at the time since my other recorder was not 12 volt to change it to 6 for the heat issue)
Any comments on my comment or the above comment would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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This is just opinion, but I think it might be the battery. I know a lot of people use the dvd batteries and they power the decks and all, but they're designed to work on 12V and people are running them on a 9V. I use a 12V and have never had this issue. I have had my deck modded though, so the different op-amps may play into it also.
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Thanks guys for input/recent experiences. Looks like maybe a 12v battery option should be the next troubleshoot option.
Myco, what is the specific brand/model you are using. (I think I have a multiple voltage laptop battery someplace I used for laptop field recording until a couple of years ago.
Thanks again. I'll see how it goes at Mtn Jam next week.
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Thanks guys for input/recent experiences. Looks like maybe a 12v battery option should be the next troubleshoot option.
Myco, what is the specific brand/model you are using. (I think I have a multiple voltage laptop battery someplace I used for laptop field recording until a couple of years ago.
Thanks again. I'll see how it goes at Mtn Jam next week.
http://www.thebatterygeeks.com/Portable-DVD-Player-Battery-p/10-14-100_batterygeek.htm
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I want to record 8 channels at 24/96. Which card will I need? Reasonable options from a b&h search are:
Lexar (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=getItemDetail&Q=&sku=692820&is=REG&si=rev#costumerReview)
Transcend (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/712659-REG/Transcend_TS32GSDHC10_32GB_SDHC_Card.html)
Sandisk (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/563180-REG/SanDisk_SDSDRH_032G_A11_32GB_Ultra_SDHC_Memory.html) says 15 mb/s but is listed as class 4... something doesn't add up here.
Sandisk extreme (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=getItemDetail&Q=&sku=757925&is=REG&si=rev#costumerReview) Expensive
I'm a Sandisk diehard and really don't trust transcend. I've heard ok things about Lexar, but am still leery.
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I use Kingston 6; Polaroid/PNY 4; Adata 10; Patriot 6; Patriot LX 10 ; Centon 6, cards all with no problems all 16GB
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I have never used a 680, but I have used Ri-Data 32gb/8gb CF Cards, and 16gb A-Data Class 6 MicroSDHC Cards, and have never had a problem [kocks on wood] :P ;D
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All Lexar cards here (cause of a local sale), no problems.
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I love to run matrixes... It is what I do better than 90% of the time. Last night I'm recording a blues man (Louisiana Red) in my favorite club. (Rhythm Room) So channels 1 and 2 are split (8') omnis at the stage lip between the monitors and PA. I split the board signal between channels 3 and 4... channel 5 is an aux out of the board with straight vocals. Channel 3 is normal and I set the trim to get a decent level... on channel 4 I turn the limiter on and set the gain as high as it will go. I had wondered if the limiter was robust enough to handle this and it is... I just turned down this channel into the mix and it worked like a champ . on the fly New York Compression in Phoenix... Right now I'm mixing the 5 channels (and the mix) God I love this machine.
Kingston 16gb class 6, A-Data 16gb Class 6 No Problem..... I always buy from Newegg
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Good to hear the limiters are decent, hadn't tried 'em.
Diggin' that cool extra track trick too.
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Yep now I'm gonna try slamming the limiters myself. That trick could make for a whole new approach with the 680 ;D
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So back to my memory card question... who's done a full 8 channels of 24/96 and what brand/speed card would be needed?
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been lurking on the 680 threads for a while now, and even posted some comments.
I've seen some battery solutions
I may join the team this summer...
but need to know about external battery options that won't break the bank.
saw some Li-Ion batts like this on ebay- yea or neigh?
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-9800mAH-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-CCTV-Camera-/260756895091?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb6527573 (http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-9800mAH-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-CCTV-Camera-/260756895091?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb6527573)
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-9000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-CCTV-cam-/150572284101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230eceb8c5 (http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-9000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-CCTV-cam-/150572284101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230eceb8c5)
seem to remember that: tangtang1628 is a reputable seller?
also on SDHC cards any issues with the Transcend cards? class 6 or 10?
I usually get Transcend's never have had issues with them.
thanx
--Ian
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been lurking on the 680 threads for a while now, and even posted some comments.
I've seen some battery solutions
I may join the team this summer...
but need to know about external battery options that won't break the bank.
saw some Li-Ion batts like this on ebay- yea or neigh?
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-9800mAH-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-CCTV-Camera-/260756895091?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb6527573 (http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-9800mAH-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-CCTV-Camera-/260756895091?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb6527573)
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-9000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-CCTV-cam-/150572284101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230eceb8c5 (http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-9000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-CCTV-cam-/150572284101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230eceb8c5)
seem to remember that: tangtang1628 is a reputable seller?
also on SDHC cards any issues with the Transcend cards? class 6 or 10?
I usually get Transcend's never have had issues with them.
thanx
--Ian
Hey Ian,
Like many of us, you'll probably really like the DR680.
I purchased a battery from the ebay vendor you listed (TangTang1628), but it wasn't either of the ones you mentioned, so I can't fairly comment on how they work with the dr680. However, the transaction I had was very smooth and the follow up communication with them about how to properly charge the battery was quick and friendly.
I'm using a Transcend 16gb class 6 card and have had zero trouble with it, so far. I usually record 6 tracks at 24/48.
Good luck with your dr680 aquisition.
Dave
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Hey Ian! I do have one of the Tang Tang batteries but I got it for the USB power option. Two things I have seen/heard about the battery. One I read on TS somewhere that if the battery was too close to gear that it picked up noise?? maybe from the regulator in it?/ I can't say that I've heard or experienced that. Second. Jeff's buddy Bruce has a screen shot os battery noise. BUT he claims he has it with no mics connected AND the noise is below the self noise of mics. Now I am far from an expert but from what I understand is that taking readings of electrical signal(noise) without a circuit being loaded (having mics) is not an accurate representation. It's akin to turning your deck on cranking the gain and then saying you hear a noise. The other thing is I have run my 680 since they first came out with the 9 volt DVD batteries and have not had any issues at all. Tascam list it as needing 12 volts but I suspect is has a range of voltages that it can work under. I have even run batteries then AC power and cannot hear or see any differences. As for cards. all you need is a good class 4 but if you look at my post above you'll see I run class 4, 6 & 10 cards. I have even used a cheap card all have functioned well. It's too bad you are not still living closer you could borrow the deck and try it out. Hit me up if you got any questions
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Another reply, mainly echoing kirk.
I bought two of those type of CCTV batteries, both were useless. Neither was the same storage amount, but both looked essentially the same with the blue shrink wrap.
First one I got from ebay/China, listed as 12v output, 6800mah. It worked fine for some initial testing, but first time I charged it, it blew up like a balloon. Not good for li-ion batteries -- scrap that (ok, recycle that). Next one came from DinoDirect (or something like that), also from China, also listed as 12v, 6800mah. It worked fine, ran the 680, used it only a couple of times, but it ran the 680 for far less than I was expecting. Then it died, wouldn't charge, no output voltage, useless.
I finally got around to dissecting it and it contained 3x 3.7v li-ion packs, so without upconverting the voltage, that would be 11.1V out, not 12v out. I never tested while it was working to see if it was 11.1V out or 12v out, so it may have stepped up the voltage to 12v. Thing is though -- the 3.7v li-ion packs inside were 4200mah packs. Yep, no wonder it didn't last as long. The 6800mah listing was just completely made up, it was a 4200mah pack at best.
Bottom line, stay away from this junk, the typical 9v DVD battery works great with the 680.
On the card speed, I first ran a (supposedly) Class 6 Adata 16gb card I had been using with the R44. It worked for 4ch at 24/48, but choked and ruined recordings with 6ch at 24/48. I have a Mac, so I don't know how to do actual speed testing on the card (which is now lost) and I thus don't know how fast it really was.
I replaced it with a 32GB Class 4 card from Kingston. It has been rock solid running up to 8ch at 24/48. I've never run above 48k, but I think theoretically 8ch at 96k sampling should be less than 2.5 MB/s write speed, so a true Class 4 card at 4 MB/s should be able to cover 8ch of 24/96 recording. From my experience, get a quality card from a quality mfg (Sandisk, Lexar, Kingston, maybe others, but that's who I trust) and just get a Class 4 or Class 6 card. No reason for Class 10, unless the mfg is mis-reporting their speeds.
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and FWIW the Tang Tang are not shrink wrapped but come in a plastic case with an on off switch and three slots, 1-USB, 1-12volt, 1-9volt. I'll grab it and take some voltage readings that I will post here. The noise I was talking about is in direct reference to the Tang Tang model.
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This is just opinion, but I think it might be the battery. I know a lot of people use the dvd batteries and they power the decks and all, but they're designed to work on 12V and people are running them on a 9V. I use a 12V and have never had this issue. I have had my deck modded though, so the different op-amps may play into it also.
Hey Myco, when we spoke last week at phish I had forgotten you helped me with the battery advice. I have decided to pull the trigger on the BG unit you use. That night I ran about 3/4 of the show with the lithium advanced cells and then had to plug in one of my 9v dvd's which finished the show no problem, but no more messing around around with cells and 9v dvd's too much $ and aggravation. It seems like that BG unit is not much bigger than the 9v's. Thanks again for input.
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been lurking on the 680 threads for a while now, and even posted some comments.
I've seen some battery solutions
I may join the team this summer...
but need to know about external battery options that won't break the bank.
saw some Li-Ion batts like this on ebay- yea or neigh?
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-9800mAH-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-CCTV-Camera-/260756895091?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb6527573 (http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-9800mAH-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-CCTV-Camera-/260756895091?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb6527573)
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-9000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-CCTV-cam-/150572284101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230eceb8c5 (http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-9000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-CCTV-cam-/150572284101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230eceb8c5)
seem to remember that: tangtang1628 is a reputable seller?
also on SDHC cards any issues with the Transcend cards? class 6 or 10?
I usually get Transcend's never have had issues with them.
thanx
--Ian
Shameless plug:
Summer is officially just around the corner, and I've got everything you need if you want to join the team now:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=146307.0
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been lurking on the 680 threads for a while now, and even posted some comments.
I've seen some battery solutions
I may join the team this summer...
but need to know about external battery options that won't break the bank.
saw some Li-Ion batts like this on ebay- yea or neigh?
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-9800mAH-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-CCTV-Camera-/260756895091?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb6527573 (http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-9800mAH-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-CCTV-Camera-/260756895091?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb6527573)
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-9000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-CCTV-cam-/150572284101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230eceb8c5 (http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-9000mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-CCTV-cam-/150572284101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230eceb8c5)
seem to remember that: tangtang1628 is a reputable seller?
also on SDHC cards any issues with the Transcend cards? class 6 or 10?
I usually get Transcend's never have had issues with them.
thanx
--Ian
Shameless plug:
Summer is officially just around the corner, and I've got everything you need if you want to join the team now:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=146307.0
Todd,
Thanx!
I want it!
I sent a PM - though may not be the first...
hopefully I am!
;D
peace
--Ian
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This is just opinion, but I think it might be the battery. I know a lot of people use the dvd batteries and they power the decks and all, but they're designed to work on 12V and people are running them on a 9V. I use a 12V and have never had this issue. I have had my deck modded though, so the different op-amps may play into it also.
Hey Myco, when we spoke last week at phish I had forgotten you helped me with the battery advice. I have decided to pull the trigger on the BG unit you use. That night I ran about 3/4 of the show with the lithium advanced cells and then had to plug in one of my 9v dvd's which finished the show no problem, but no more messing around around with cells and 9v dvd's too much $ and aggravation. It seems like that BG unit is not much bigger than the 9v's. Thanks again for input.
Good deal! I run them parallel myself. The internals are just emergency backup that way. I ran the whole phish show on my batterygeek 12V and didn't lose a bar. The 9V can work just as well I'm told, so it's good to have options. I have (2) 12V batterygeek lithiums, and (4) 9V dvd lithiums that I bought in the big ebay sale a year or two ago. Oh, yeah, I got one old 9V Energizer lithium from an Oade purchase a while ago also. So I'm good for a festi & more. ;D
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When I was running a Mini-MP > M10 one time I had to rearrange my bag and ended up setting a DVD battery on the powered-up mmp and I guess because there are(?) relays in the mmp phantom circuitry it kept causing the phantom power to shut off. Really freaked me out at first because I was doing work for a festival organizer and thought the mmp had an issue.
One of the first things I did with the 680 was to check and see if it was affected by being too close to a battery and there were no issues.
BTW here's a quick comparison between some MC930s and MBHO 603a/500 (hypers) both straight into a 680 if anyone's interested:
http://www.mediafire.com/?82b8p8kx99t39vd
http://www.mediafire.com/?3rwu7mkcix0588w
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I await my "new" DR-680 from ToddR
--Ian
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Synchronization of two DR-680
As Kirkd describes jan 5 2011 he succeeded with synchronization of to DR-680 via SD USBPre2, but that means to put another 700 Dollars invest on top of two DR-680. My goal is to use them for smaller recordings as backup DR-680 to the second one and backup recording of up to 12 (hopefully 14 or 16?) channels of my Fostex D 1624 of classical live recording. I nearly lost two live concert recordings through a contact issue of my Fostex D1624 or even a internal power failure of the R-44 in the last months.
Did nobody find a costly solution up to now for synchronizing both devices as the master slave only synchronizes the record and stop "buttons". but not the digital clock.
May there be a way to send the digital output of track 7/8 (mix modus) to the input 7/8 of second device in the normal "not master/slave" modus to synchronize?
That's my main issue bevor investing in a second DR 680,
Thanks
Grosse_j
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May there be a way to send the digital output of track 7/8 (mix modus) to the input 7/8 of second device in the normal "not master/slave" modus to synchronize?
That will certainly work to syncronize clocks using a SPDIF coaxial cablebetween machines for 12 total tracks (or 14 if you also use the digital input on the 1st deck). Transports would not be locked so the recorders would need to be started individually and the resulting tracks aligned latter in the computer. I do that to clock the DR-680 to my R-44. I can then record four channels on the R-44 and send digital out from there to sync the 680 with six more tracks on it for 10 total.
Might it be posible to use that SPIF linking make clock sync and also use the sync cable for master/slave mode transport linking? I don't know of anyone trying that yet.
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What was your longest track/recoding you realized synchronisity between R44 and DR 680? Was it some ten minutes or hours f.e. classical live recording of 90 to 120 minutes?
Thanks
Grosse_j
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105 minute jazz set lastnight.
The DR680 screen indicates DIN UNLOCK if the SPIF connection is lost for what ever reason (cable disconnected, R44 powered down, etc) and DIN LOCK once the connection is restored.
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Ok...I know I've been threatening to buy one of these since before it came out...and...wait for it...I FINALLY DID!
>:D
Musicians Friend had them as their daily deal for $649! :o
Now the Porta-brace I bought for it about 6 month ago finally feels wanted.
Just need to pick of a large SDHC card and battery and I should be good to go. Probably should pick up some long XLR's too so I can run my MCE400's on stage.
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Got a link to that? I don't see it.
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Got a link to that? I don't see it.
well it was discussed here: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=146489.0
but since its just a day long deal, its gone now.
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I see. I guess it made no sense to mention it then!
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My "new" DR-680 Arrived today from ToddR! Thanx!
I had trouble powering it on with the internal AA NiMh rechargeables- I'm assuming it just a low charge on them. It worked fine with the external power supply.
--Ian
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You are going to love it
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Need a little help folks. Saturday night CD and I ran 6 channel for Dangermuffin. I ran 4022>vms5u(@30db)>AD2K(+18 input/6db level meter switch) 24/48>spdif>680. Got excellent levels on 680, but nothing on AD2K. level meter. So,why would the AD2K not show levels?
Todd
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My "new" DR-680 Arrived today from ToddR! Thanx!
I had trouble powering it on with the internal AA NiMh rechargeables- I'm assuming it just a low charge on them. It worked fine with the external power supply.
--Ian
Great minds think alike. (i.e. sell FR2LE... buy DR680)
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I have a playback question for my DR-680 - I've never tried to playback the files directly on the machine but rather have always just copied the SD card over to my laptop and messed around with things from there. Today I tried to play the files directly on the machine - I selected Browse from the menu and when I highlight a certain take and select info, it says "Irregular File" and when I try to play it it says "File Not Found in Take". The files copied over to my HD and play fine there - anyone know what's up?
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Question about internal batteries: I notice that the Power button is really a Standby button. is there a way to actually power down the unit, so as to not trickle the batteries down? After recharging 8 NiMH batteries I did manage to get the unit to power up vial the 8 AA internal batteries.
Thanx
-- Ian
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Question about internal batteries: I notice that the Power button is really a Standby button. is there a way to actually power down the unit, so as to not trickle the batteries down? After recharging 8 NiMH batteries I did manage to get the unit to power up vial the 8 AA internal batteries.
Thanx
-- Ian
Ian,
If you hold down the power/standby button for ~ 3 sec or so, it will shut down the unit. I'm not sure why they call it standby mode, as it basically shuts the unit down - perhaps others have measured potential power consumption during this mode but as far as I can tell it is minimal. I've never actually used the unit with AA's - I've always used AC power or DVD batteries, so not sure how much life you can expect out of a set of AA's, especially if you are providing phantom power.
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Today I tried to play the files directly on the machine - I selected Browse from the menu and when I highlight a certain take and select info, it says "Irregular File" and when I try to play it it says "File Not Found in Take". The files copied over to my HD and play fine there - anyone know what's up?
This happened for me last night when I tried to use the DR-680 to play a file form a card that was recorded using a DR2d (the only time I've tried to play a file that was not recorded on this machine). I got the same error messages, assumed it was a file directory format issue or something but didn't look into it further. I say that from similar experience with playing back mulitchannel files on the R-44 which must be placed in a folder with a .pjt extension and in general the R-44 is less particular than the DR-680 about file structure and where the WAVs are placed.
As for power drain when off, I've noticed mine slowly draining a DVD battery a few times overnight when off I think (though not the internal AA's) so I've taken to keeping the battery unplugged before and after use just to be safe.
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Today I tried to play the files directly on the machine - I selected Browse from the menu and when I highlight a certain take and select info, it says "Irregular File" and when I try to play it it says "File Not Found in Take". The files copied over to my HD and play fine there - anyone know what's up?
This happened for me last night when I tried to use the DR-680 to play a file form a card that was recorded using a DR2d (the only time I've tried to play a file that was not recorded on this machine). I got the same error messages, assumed it was a file directory format issue or something but didn't look into it further. I say that from similar experience with playing back mulitchannel files on the R-44 which must be placed in a folder with a .pjt extension and in general the R-44 is less particular than the DR-680 about file structure and where the WAVs are placed.
As for power drain when off, I've noticed mine slowly draining a DVD battery a few times overnight when off I think (though not the internal AA's) so I've taken to keeping the battery unplugged before and after use just to be safe.
I can see a compatibility issue with files recorded on a different model machine but I can't figure out why this is happening when I recorded it on the DR-680. Anyone else experience this problem or otherwise have any ideas why I am getting these error messages?
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I posted some questions in another thread, http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=146617.0 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=146617.0). Should I have posted here instead? I thought it best to isolate them at the time because of the length of the 3-part, 72 page total thread.
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105 minute jazz set lastnight.
The DR680 screen indicates DIN UNLOCK if the SPIF connection is lost for what ever reason (cable disconnected, R44 powered down, etc) and DIN LOCK once the connection is restored.
Today I did a 2 h test run with SAT receiver input, left channel in R44 and via coax digital to DR 680 in, right channel direkt in DR 680. Everything went well, the track 7/8 (sum up of all R44 tracks) is verry well synchronized over the 2 hours to track 1/2- thats clear. How do you align single tracks directly from R44 SDHC card to the DR 680 tracks? Do you lock for an specific "click" on pc screen in audio sw to calculate the time difference and afterwards delete or fill in that difference? My first attempts were quiet difficult for that. Do you have an special advice?
Thanks
Grosse_j
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That's it. Move one set of tracks along the DAW timeline until they align with the set from the other recorder. Looking for an obvious transient peak makes it easier.
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Am i missing something? How do you display the total time left on a SD card while the unit is recording?
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Am i missing something? How do you display the total time left on a SD card while the unit is recording?
Good question. I've wondered this also.
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you cant it will only display the time remaining in the file
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you cant it will only display the time remaining in the file
Lame-ooooo
Hopefully this will be a firmware update.
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you cant it will only display the time remaining in the file
Lame-ooooo
Hopefully this will be a firmware update.
Yeah, it is rather lame-o. I found it hard to believe that simple but important function was missing.
My work around is checking card info for remaining space, though it's displayed in MB rather than time and means going through the menus. Otherwise I hit rec/pause and confirm that I at least have full remaining time for that particular file.
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you cant it will only display the time remaining in the file
Lame-ooooo
Hopefully this will be a firmware update.
qft
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you cant it will only display the time remaining in the file
Lame-ooooo
Hopefully this will be a firmware update.
Agree, there are a few little "quirks" that could use an update, but getting used to for now. . .
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Is the limiter to be avoided or does it just cut in when clipping would already be an issue?
Thanks,
David
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Is the limiter to be avoided or does it just cut in when clipping would already be an issue?
Thanks,
David
After reading a post that the limiter was worth using and had some nice properties even when slamming it pretty hard( sorry maybe the OP can chime in I forget exactly who it was) I have been using it all the time to help cover my ass. I am a little backlogged in the transfer department but so far I have not had anything pop up that would lead me to discontinue it's use. I believe it only comes into play as you hit overs and is not an attenuation type setting. I also believe it is not an absolute and can be overcome be extreme levels leading to overs. I'd have to review the manual to be sure of what Tascam claims.
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In normal operation the limiter would only limit the signals that would clip anyway. I have been splitting say my sbd signal between two channels and running one channel at a decent, normal level and running the other channel at max gain and slamming the limiters. I mix this into the "stereo mix" On the fly "Parallel Limiting" (soon to be known as Phoenix Limiting) Been working for me....
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I'm sure this has been covered before, so my my apologies. I'm borrowing the 680 (thanks Drew) for a show tonight and this weekend. Gonna take a digital in for tracks 7 and 8 from my 671. Two tracks from the soundboard. The rest will be direct outs, bass, vocals, guitar. My question is this. Does panning effect the recording at all, or just the mix if I was mixing to a stereo track? Right now, I have all the pan buttons centered, adjusting in post. Is that right or do I need to pan accordingly on the fly?
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You got it.
Pan only controls the internal mix to the stereo track (which you aren't using in your config) and the monitor output, which you may or may not care about.
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Thanks for the quick reply Gutbucket.
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Anyone else have problems with slow write errors with A-Data 16gb type 6 SDHC cards? I had a couple during a show I was working a week ago. I've run a 32gb Lexar card for a while now with no problems though.
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My dr-680 will not power up.I used last week and after I transferred the files it will not turn on. Never had any problems prior to this.Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Todd
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Did you check the LOCK switch on top?
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Did you check the LOCK switch on top?
^^
That's caught me a number of times with the DR2d before I realized what was going on. No indication at all, unlike the R-09 that displayed 'hold is on' if you pressed a button. I don't use the lock on the DR680 enough to have the situation arrise.
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Anyone else have problems with slow write errors with A-Data 16gb type 6 SDHC cards? I had a couple during a show I was working a week ago. I've run a 32gb Lexar card for a while now with no problems though.
My experience has been that the 680 is a little picky about cards. It didn't like a Kingston class 10 32gb card I bought for it (also slow write errors) but hasn't missed a beat with a Kingston class 4 32gb card that I now use. It also didn't like a Transcend 8gb class 6 card I had, but that one had a slightly different label on it than two other Transcend class 6 8gb cards I have and work fine in it.
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Anyone else have problems with slow write errors with A-Data 16gb type 6 SDHC cards? I had a couple during a show I was working a week ago. I've run a 32gb Lexar card for a while now with no problems though.
My experience has been that the 680 is a little picky about cards. It didn't like a Kingston class 10 32gb card I bought for it (also slow write errors) but hasn't missed a beat with a Kingston class 4 32gb card that I now use. It also didn't like a Transcend 8gb class 6 card I had, but that one had a slightly different label on it than two other Transcend class 6 8gb cards I have and work fine in it.
Thanks Drew. I won't use the A-Data in there, I gave up on Transcend with my last Edirol R-44. I do have some Lexar & Kingston cards. How about PNY? anyone have problems with them?
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Just repeating what's been said, but I had an Adata Class 6 that didn't work unless I moved things down to 16/44. Replaced it with a 32GB Class 4 Kingston and it worked fine for 8ch at 24/48. I never run at 96k, so I didn't try that.
Perhaps slower on transfer, but I'd recommend the Class 4 Kingston -- works fine and you can get them fairly cheap since they are only Class 4.
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We've been using a Sandisk Ultra 32gb card (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820171359&cm_re=sandisk_32gb_sdhc-_-20-171-359-_-Product) with our 680 with flawless results. Have done 6 x 2496; no problems at all.
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We've been using a Sandisk Ultra 32gb card (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820171359&cm_re=sandisk_32gb_sdhc-_-20-171-359-_-Product) with our 680 with flawless results. Have done 6 x 2496; no problems at all.
Well no duh...! as my daughter would say :lol:, that's a Cadillac right there, but it also comes with the Cadillac price as well.
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We've been using a Sandisk Ultra 32gb card (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820171359&cm_re=sandisk_32gb_sdhc-_-20-171-359-_-Product) with our 680 with flawless results. Have done 6 x 2496; no problems at all.
Well no duh...! as my daughter would say :lol:, that's a Cadillac right there, but it also comes with the Cadillac price as well.
But you also need to ask how important the recording is to you.
32GB may be horrendously expensive, but 16GB cards are a lot less and 4 x 8GB cards are well affordable.
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To each their own, but $60 is not expensive. Not even close. It blows my mind that people even consider brands other than Sandisk. ridata, adata, transcend, etc. are all..... pardon my tone... complete garbage. If you've followed the SD market for a few years, you should know there is a big difference in compatability and reliability between brands. Sandisk is the best and the money you save is in the neighborhood of a beer or two. There's just no reason whatsoever to use a brand that could cause headaches.
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To each their own, but $60 is not expensive. Not even close. It blows my mind that people even consider brands other than Sandisk. ridata, adata, transcend, etc. are all..... pardon my tone... complete garbage. If you've followed the SD market for a few years, you should know there is a big difference in compatability and reliability between brands. Sandisk is the best and the money you save is in the neighborhood of a beer or two. There's just no reason whatsoever to use a brand that could cause headaches.
So very true. Spending thousands on a nice rig and cheaping out on an SD card makes no sense to me. Even with a low-cost rig, the hassle factor isn't worth it.
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To each their own, but $60 is not expensive. Not even close. It blows my mind that people even consider brands other than Sandisk. ridata, adata, transcend, etc. are all..... pardon my tone... complete garbage. If you've followed the SD market for a few years, you should know there is a big difference in compatability and reliability between brands. Sandisk is the best and the money you save is in the neighborhood of a beer or two. There's just no reason whatsoever to use a brand that could cause headaches.
Not super interested in following the SD market--maybe you could point us to some info. I've been using Kingston and Transcend cards with no problems for a few years. But if you can convince me that I'm much more likely to never have a problem with the Sandisk, I'll make the switch. I'm not into skimping on cards, and $60 doesn't seem like that much for 32 gigs.
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'Follow the market' was probably the wrong phrase to use. Essentially, I've been reading this board and others for years and anecdotally I cannot recall there ever being a major issue with a Sandisk manufactured cards. There are some other good brands out there, but for my money Sandisk is the only brand I will trust. I recall many, many issues being reported with the various other brands previously mentioned; whether or not those issues are still in-play I don't know, but historically speaking their track record is less than ideal.
It's really analogous to the 'made in japan' vs. 'made in china' debate. You pay a few extra dollars to buy a product you -know- was manufactured under very tight tolerances with stringent QA procedures or you buy a product that is a few bucks cheaper and -hope- you got a unit that falls into spec.
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To each their own, but $60 is not expensive. Not even close. It blows my mind that people even consider brands other than Sandisk. ridata, adata, transcend, etc. are all..... pardon my tone... complete garbage. If you've followed the SD market for a few years, you should know there is a big difference in compatability and reliability between brands. Sandisk is the best and the money you save is in the neighborhood of a beer or two. There's just no reason whatsoever to use a brand that could cause headaches.
I meant no insult, sorry if it came across that way. Sandisk is top notch.
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nah man.. no insult whatsoever!!! I loved the Cadillac reference :)
I just feel that if you're going to skimp on a few bucks here and there, you're asking for trouble. Basically the same thing every single week with the M10 versus that 8493837 other pocket recorders on the market.
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TTT God I love this unit... I have been pulling gold with it. Love that ability to slam the limiters... love those two extra channels.
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TTT God I love this unit... I have been pulling gold with it. Love that ability to slam the limiters... love those two extra channels.
Feelin' the love man. I'd like to try that limiter parallel thing sometime, except I'm usually running something else into 5&6.
Ran 5 omnis in a spaced pentagonal arrangement (~40" between each) into it last Friday for an outside gig with the mics setup in a small tree growing third row just left of center. Got some looks gaff taping wires down the trunk to my bag, but it worked fantastic. Team green mic-stand!
BTW, this was the first full 5 channel surround recording that I've brought home and played directly off the recorder via the analog outs. No sync'ing, no computer BS. An unexpected firetruck pass-by 3/4 of the way through has made me look out the window each time I've played it back! I then wondered why I didn't run six omnis. Too bad you can't adjust playback output levels for each channel like on the R44.. only level and pan for the stereo mixdown. Fortunately I set levels close enough to each other that not adjustment isn't really needed.
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Last week I have received the six8zero machine's schematic and Service manual. Planned upgrade some of the lytics to Rubycon Z low ESR.
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I'd love to take a look at the schematic...
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I'd love to take a look at the schematic...
go back top page 23 my post...
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Thanks :)
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Last week I have received the six8zero machine's schematic and Service manual. Planned upgrade some of the lytics to Rubycon Z low ESR.
Sweet! Can you post the service manual too? Looks like the three documents are only schematics and do not include assembly instructions.
I would love to know how this turns out; it's an interesting idea to say the least. :)
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+T
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Last week I have received the six8zero machine's schematic and Service manual. Planned upgrade some of the lytics to Rubycon Z low ESR.
Sweet! Can you post the service manual too? Looks like the three documents are only schematics and do not include assembly instructions.
I would love to know how this turns out; it's an interesting idea to say the least. :)
it is to big 3.8 MB for posting here...
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I'd like to see the service manual too.
Maybe you can post it on a free file share site and post the link here?
Or email it to someone to do that for you?
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post it in the manual section here....
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Oh yeah, forgot about that great resource.
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I have a playback question for my DR-680 - I've never tried to playback the files directly on the machine but rather have always just copied the SD card over to my laptop and messed around with things from there. Today I tried to play the files directly on the machine - I selected Browse from the menu and when I highlight a certain take and select info, it says "Irregular File" and when I try to play it it says "File Not Found in Take". The files copied over to my HD and play fine there - anyone know what's up?
Sorry, haven't checked this thread in a while. When I move files from the machine to my computer I often "cut & paste" (cut) instead of "drag & drop" (copy). When I do this, the file name still shows up in the 680's menu. When you do Browse>Info it then shows "file not found in take" as you described above. Essentially, I think if the header information is present, it will look for and play the file correctly (assuming it's the same file that the 680 recorded). I am not removing the SD card from the machine when I do the "cut & paste" as described. The only way to get rid of the file names is to format the card. The card still says the correct amount of free space is present, but for whatever reason keeps the file names (header information) until formatted.
I assume if you record with the 680 and the file is still on the machine, it will play back properly. I have played back the files in the car (once/twice) on the way home to check them out - simply using the headphone out to AUX in on the car stereo. I have also listened through headphones at home directly on the 680 without issue.
Cheers,
Matt
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Question about internal batteries: I notice that the Power button is really a Standby button. is there a way to actually power down the unit, so as to not trickle the batteries down? After recharging 8 NiMH batteries I did manage to get the unit to power up vial the 8 AA internal batteries.
Thanx
-- Ian
I will say that I've noticed something: I use DVD batteries, with AA rechargeables in the deck at all times for backup. If I keep the DVD batt plugged in to the deck even when the unit is off, it does drain the battery. I get 4+ hours with this particular battery, and left it plugged in twice (deck is "powered off", but cable from batt > deck is still attached). Both times the battery was empty when I went to use it again (fortunately I always have a 2nd battery). I can't comment on the drain on the AA's, as the unit will use what it considers AC power (anything plugged in to the unit) before it uses the batteries. I did have some life left one of the two times mentioned above.
Cheers,
Matt
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it is in user manual section but 3 parts are to big can not upload...
I like this Batterie 6800mA it will run for approx 15 hours and its so cheap & light and a newer ones (3800 mA @ 12V) have 5V USB too
http://cgi.ebay.ch/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120599451526&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CH:1123
http://cgi.ebay.ch/12V-DC-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-for-CCTV-Cam-6800mAh-/120645075335?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item1c1701c187#ht_3329wt_1141
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Made a Dropbox for the DR 680 stuff
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/30801792/Tascam/DR-680Service%20manual.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/30801792/Tascam/DR-680_SCH.pdf
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Last week I have received the six8zero machine's schematic and Service manual. Planned upgrade some of the lytics to Rubycon Z low ESR.
Sweet! Can you post the service manual too? Looks like the three documents are only schematics and do not include assembly instructions.
I would love to know how this turns out; it's an interesting idea to say the least. :)
I have done this with several digital audio devices it opens the sound. You you have to carfully unsolder the things, not to damage the copper on the printed circuit. Some of them have multiple layers the I cut off the old caps and solder it to the old wire on the board. I strip off the plastics from the caps. Dont want to fight/discuss this in detail it sounds better. Swiss genius Serge Schmidlin recommend it.
http://www.audio-consulting.ch/?Philosophy
http://www.stereotimes.com/comm071111.shtml
http://digilander.libero.it/agostino.manzato/audio/reportage/visiting_AudioConsulting/visitingAudioConsulting.html
Some recordings with Serges stuff
http://translate.google.de/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=de&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.boenicke-audio.ch%2FBTR.pdf
http://www.boenicke-audio.ch/BTR.pdf
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Thank you so much for posting this.. +T
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it is in user manual section but 3 parts are to big can not upload...
I like this Batterie 6800mA it will run for approx 15 hours and its so cheap & light and a newer ones (3800 mA @ 12V) have 5V USB too
http://cgi.ebay.ch/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120599451526&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CH:1123
http://cgi.ebay.ch/12V-DC-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-for-CCTV-Cam-6800mAh-/120645075335?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item1c1701c187#ht_3329wt_1141
Three things on these batteries. 1 -no meters. 2-power switch cab easily be turned off. 3- a friend and I are going back and forth about noise from the battery. it's low and is down in a mic self noise range, but it is there. Compared to the 9V dvd batteries which do not have the noise. and I'll post the link later got take off right now.
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it is in user manual section but 3 parts are to big can not upload...
I like this Batterie 6800mA it will run for approx 15 hours and its so cheap & light and a newer ones (3800 mA @ 12V) have 5V USB too
http://cgi.ebay.ch/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120599451526&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CH:1123
http://cgi.ebay.ch/12V-DC-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-for-CCTV-Cam-6800mAh-/120645075335?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item1c1701c187#ht_3329wt_1141
Three things on these batteries. 1 -no meters. 2-power switch cab easily be turned off. 3- a friend and I are going back and forth about noise from the battery. it's low and is down in a mic self noise range, but it is there. Compared to the 9V dvd batteries which do not have the noise. and I'll post the link later got take off right now.
Yes they are black stinky and made of plastic
1 Why Meters, Tascam sucks 350mA : 6800 = 19 hrs (I never tape that long)
2. The newer ones have bigger Switch with resistance
3. Noise what Noise. I have 5 dead silent. The only noise I hear is from the refrigerator
.-)
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Switch is still a potnetial probelm. I put some guards next to mine in order to preven accidentailly have it turned off in a gear bag.
Link to Noise:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=144811.msg1872122#msg1872122
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j372/TaperBruce/RegulatorNoise.jpg
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Now I see what is the trouble the 12 Volts alone dont have this issue? Check cranking up silence with different Batts
Made some tests with el chaepo chineese firecracker (Lipo) 12V & 12/ 5V batt, if you switch on all Phantom 1/2 3/4 5/6 one of noisesources is gone... Some of the noise is from the Tascam herself :-( bitch!
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I have one of these cheapo "tri-voltage" batteries, but have been reluctant to take it out yet.
I does have long run-time but I haven't tested the noise yet.
Are they lithium ion or lithium polymer?
I just got into rc cars and the big boys all use lipo batteries (with the added fun of torching, fireworks, smoke, explosion)
Are lipo's appropriate for runnin audio gear?
I use Wally-World, LiIon's and NiMh AA's, and have thought about trying LiPo. Do they have (need) voltage regulation?
I built a 12v pack out of NiMh AA's to run my DR-680. (2 sets of 8 AA's parallel)
I need schooling on which flavors of batteries need voltage regulation and why.
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Sanyo Eneeloop are cool long lasting capacity 85% over a year. Leave them always inside as backup, or for short recordings.
Very low inner impendance much better then NMHY
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Sending the discussion over to part 4:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=147677.0