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Gear / Technical Help => Recording Gear => Topic started by: NOLAfishwater on March 27, 2013, 03:49:02 PM
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This thing looks perfect for a DSLR setup http://tascam.com/product/dr-60d/ but could probably be used for normal taping as well since it doesn't have built in microphones.
(http://tascam.com/content/images/universal/products/799/main.jpg)
Record to SD/SDHC card(Up to 32GB)
Simultaneously record up to 4 tracks
Record Mode：MONO, STEREO, DUAL MONO, DUAL ST, 4CH
Recording format：16/24bit、44.1/48/96kHz (WAV/BWF)
TASCAM original HDDA microphone preamps
Recording levels can be adjusted independently for the 1/L, 2/R and 3-4 inputs
Two XLR/TRS inputs support +4dBu line level input and phantom power supply (24/48V)
Plug-in power supply and high-output mic input supported on input 3-4
CAMERA OUT connector for output from the DR-60D's mixer
CAMERA IN connector for sound monitoring from the Camera
Independent LINE OUT connector and HEADPHONE output for high-quality sound output
50mW/ch headphone output
Tripod mounting threads (bottom) and DSLR screw attachment (top)
Handles protect the screen and can be used to attach a shoulder strap
Soft-Touch Rubber Keys for silent operation
HOLD switch to prevent accidental operation
A QUICK button is available for easy access to various functions
128x64 pixel LCD with backlight
USB 2.0 connection for high-speed transferring
Mini USB cable included
Operates on 4 AA batteries, an AC adapter (sold separately) or USB bus power
Can extend battery life with BP-6AA battery pack (sold separately)
Dedicated remote control jack for the wired RC-10 remote control or RC-3F footswitch (both sold separately)
Internal mixer: PAN and LEVEL controls
Low cut filter(40/80/120Hz)
Limiter (1/L and 2/R can be selected for link-operation)
Delay function for distance of microphones adjustments (+/-150ms)
M-S decode function
Slate tone generator (AUTO/MANUAL)
Selectable duration of slate tone from four positions (0.5/1/2/3 sec, when Auto generate)
Selectable slate tone generate position. 3 positions: OFF/HEAD/HEAD+TAIL, when Auto generate
File name format can be set to use a user-defined word or date
Dual recording function allows two files to be recorded simultaneously at different levels
Auto-record function can automatically start and stop recording at set level
Pre-recording function allows the unit to record a 2 second sound buffer before recording is activated
Self timer function for solo recording
New file starts recording automatically without interruption when maximum file size is reached
Track incrementing function allows a recording to be split by creating a new file when desired
Jump back and play function
Equalizers function for playback, and level alignment function to enhance the perceived overall sound pressure
Resume function to memorize the playback position before the unit is turned off
MARK function up to 99 points per audio track
DIVIDE function
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Cool - like half a 680...
and half the price...BP $349 pre-order
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/929347-REG/tascam_dr_60d_4_ch_track_linear_pcm.html
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MS decode...does the 680 do that?
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Damn - here our on the fly matrix box!
Delay function for distance of microphones adjustments (+/-150ms)
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Input 3-4 sound like the weak point...sounds like mic in only - assuming that means this is an unbalanced input?
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It's an interesting device, even for use as a standalone recorder. I wonder how the quality compares to dr-100.
One thing i don't understand so much: the adjustable output helps to feed the camera with undistorted signal. It means that the audio recorded in the dslr card will come from the tascam. Then we could have another audio file recorded in the Tascam's sd card. am I wrong?
But, am I missing something or the camera input will affect the signal with a low quality preamp stage and with another a/d conversion through which the signal will forcely pass?
thanks for your opinion
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It's an interesting device, even for use as a standalone recorder. I wonder how the quality compares to dr-100.
One thing i don't understand so much: the adjustable output helps to feed the camera with undistorted signal. It means that the audio recorded in the dslr card will come from the tascam. Then we could have another audio file recorded in the Tascam's sd card. am I wrong?
But, am I missing something or the camera input will affect the signal with a low quality preamp stage and with another a/d conversion through which the signal will forcely pass?
thanks for your opinion
I think the idea here is to provide a superior audio front end for these cameras.
Since its 4 channel - the line out for the camera, might be a mixdown of the 4 channels...thus making it a unique source as well.
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It will certainly sell like hot cakes to the target market - I'm tempted... DSLR video quality these days is stunning, sound is another matter.
The video review at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lO1iSh87zo is well worth watching.
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Funkily-shaped/large R-26
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That safety track action would have saved me earlier in this week (nudged my levels way too hot by accident on the last track of a show argh.....)
Very interesting deck!
cb
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looks interesting... however Ch 3 & 4 seem to only be 1/8" stereo plug...
why not 1/4" or RCA, or another set of XLR's?
but $349 at B&H is tempting...
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The small stereo input is designed for typical camera mics (eg by Rode and Sennheiser) which tend to have that kind of connector.
The safety track is very likely only an attenuation in the digital domain - so if you've overloading at the mic preamp you're just going to get a clipped recording, but at a lower level. A bit like recording with the R44's inner gain knobs reduced - doesn't actually help matters most of the time.
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Hi all, Tom Duffy from TASCAM here to clear up some details:
MS decode...does the 680 do that?
Yes, MS Decode was added to the DR-680 in a firmware update. (V1.20)
Input 3-4 sound like the weak point...sounds like mic in only - assuming that means this is an unbalanced input?
Mic and Line level (-10dBV with 20dB headroom) compatible. unbalanced because it's a stereo input. This would be a great way to get audio from a wireless receiver into the DR-60D.
One thing i don't understand so much: the adjustable output helps to feed the camera with undistorted signal. It means that the audio recorded in the dslr card will come from the tascam. Then we could have another audio file recorded in the Tascam's sd card. am I wrong?
You'd send a mix of the 4 channels to the camera to use as "scratch" audio, for lining up the video with the audio files from the DR-60D in your editing application, or PluralEyes, for example. The output can be mic or line level to match what your camera takes, so that's where it's important not to distort the camera - nothing to do with distortion in the DR-60D.
The small stereo input is designed for typical camera mics (eg by Rode and Sennheiser) which tend to have that kind of connector.
Correct, you can plug a video mic straight in, but the 1/8" input also accepts a stereo line level signal as well.
The safety track is very likely only an attenuation in the digital domain - so if you've overloading at the mic preamp you're just going to get a clipped recording, but at a lower level.
Incorrect, the safety track is attenuated in the analog domain prior to the ADC, it really does save your bacon if an actor was holding back a scream or shouted line that they didn't deliver in rehearsal.
Please come and see the DR-60D at NAB if you have the chance, I'll be there to answer any questions. Although my main audio forum hang-out is on jwsoundgroup, I will check back here as well.
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Tom, how many volts of plug in power?
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Incorrect, the safety track is attenuated in the analog domain prior to the ADC, it really does save your bacon if an actor was holding back a scream or shouted line that they didn't deliver in rehearsal.
I stand corrected! Thanks for the clarification, that's very useful to know.
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Go to the web page, they show a picture of a discrete front end (surface mount transistors) plus a 4580 opamp!
Discrete front end is a great way to get low noise, but the sound quality (distortion) is unlikely to be as good as a proper opamp. We see discrete front ends in a lot of gear, all the way back to the AD20. It will never sound good for music unless designed by a competent engineer. They are great for video or ambient sound (low) noise, and that is what most (video) people want.
For example, the best sounding recorder I have is the Sony PCM D50. Someone here posted a schematic of the front end, and I saw ADA4841-2 as the opamp. That part is designed to operate at low voltage and low distortion.
Now let's compare that to the Creative EMU 0404 USB. This is an excellent very low noise USB device, with top converters too. The problem is the discrete front end on the mic preamp (four surface mount transistors per channel). This is great for low noise applications (eg., a dynamic mic input, far from the sound source), but it sounds noticeable worse than a TI INA163 instrumentation amp running at +/-15V.
So, after buying, modding, and sometimes ruining tons of gear, I recommend either buying a Sony D50 and putting phantom power in front, or buying an INA163-based preamp and putting analog output into a solid line-level recorder, Edirol R09 or whatever. Save yourself the aggravation of using a cheap mic input...
Note: my comparisons of several interfaces are based on Countryman B3 mics in front of an excellent Meyer PA in a local night club. I've tried numerous recorders including: Fostex FR2-LE, Edirol R4, Edirol UA5, Presonus Firebox, etc. None of them touches the sound quality of an ancient M-audio Duo USB interface with INA163 preamps! The problem is that the convertors are not great on this box. So I may just hack it for a preamp only.
I've been poking around a lot. Older boxes use INA217. Most current gear, such as RME Fireface use TI INA163 Now both Apogee and RME are moving to TI PGA2500, which is a programmable gain version of the INA chips. There are some DIY projects working with the PGA2500, but the problem is you need a digital controller chip to set the gain. The digital and analog parts have to be separated on the board to avoid interference. Programming is also hard. So, my recommendation is to build an INA163 preamp + phantom PSU. Even something with fixed gain, like 20dB, would go a long way to making all of our portable recorders useful.
BTW, if Jon or someone else took this on, I would be interested in buying one.
Richard
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Go to the web page, they show a picture of a discrete front end (surface mount transistors) plus a 4580 opamp!
Do you know if that is different than the 680?
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What happens to the audio on "Camera In"? Is that just for monitoring whats happening on the camera?
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Tom, how many volts of plug in power?
Sorry, the exact voltage,etc are not specs we publish (don't know why, it's just a policy we have).
Go to the web page, they show a picture of a discrete front end (surface mount transistors) plus a 4580 opamp!
Correct, this is a new combination of parts we designed for the US-322/US-366. It is different to the DR-680 and other DR series. We are proud of it. We (with an additional team of ears we respect) spent a long time comparing the sound with different transistors.
What happens to the audio on "Camera In"? Is that just for monitoring whats happening on the camera?
For Monitoring: From the manual :
When the Home Screen is open and the recorder is stopped, paused, in recording standby or recording, press the MONITOR SELECT button to open a pop-up where you can select which sound to monitor. Turn the DATA dial and select CAMERA IN.
The monitoring path also contains an auto-leveler/expander function that we call "level align", so that even if you record at low levels, you can hear what was recorded properly without needing to crank the headphone output.
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Nice idea by Tascam. Should be interesting to see how it compares w/ the DR-40 which most video people seem to have migrated to because it's cheaper than the Zoom H4n. I like that you can mount it to your tripod socket.
Wish Roland would pay attention to DSLR video too...their R-26 needs a few tweaks for it to work better..
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Just marking for interest
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I can't help feeling that aspects of the DR-680 monitoring are a bit like the Naiant monitoring mixer they built for me to my specifications to overcome the shortcomings of monitoring on the R44. In particular, the "camera in" monitoring facility corresponds with the provision on the Naiant device for monitoring a stereo backup recorder fed from the output of the monitor mixer (with variable output level just like the output to camera of this Tascam device). I should have patented the design... anyway, those provisions make the DR-60D very usable as the first of a two-recorder rig for those who can't bring themselves not to have a backup recorder running.
Which gives rise to a question to Tom - in that situation, the 60D feeding a backup recorder, obviously if there's a major failure of the 60D, the backup recorder (or camera) won't be getting any sound, but if the more likely scenario happens whereby there's a write problem on the memory card in the 60D, does the 60D shut down and turn off output to camera, or would it continue that output so you'd still come away with a recording? These days, you run a backup recording chiefly to cover yourself against such a media failure (unless you use a mixer split to two independent recording devices).
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Regarding voltage specs for plug in power, it's a measurement that take seconds with a volt meter. However it's a spec that matters, especially to us. PIP Mics distort st high SPL unless they are supplied sufficient voltage. If this unit negates the need for an external power supply, it's a selling point for me.
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Here's an idea, Tom, for which you can reward me with a free DR-60D in due course -
Clearly this device is intended to address the requirement of videographers using DSLR cameras. So, it doesn't have built in mics like other small Tascam recorders, so it's not so suitable for people wanting a one-piece mic/recorder device.
The trouble with built in mics is that typically (if not invariably) the mics are inferior to the recorder. It's actually refreshing to see a small recorder without those often useless appendages.
However, it would be quite easy to design an accessory kit for the DR-60D which would make it the ultimate one-piece recorder/mic combo, designed so that you'd bring you own mics.
The kit would consist of a short post about 12cm in length, perhaps shaped as a handgrip, which at the bottom would have a threaded socket to accept the screw on the top of the 60D - in other words you'd screw this handgrip onto the top of the recorder.
On the top of the handgrip would be a standard mic stand screw, allowing you to attach a mic clip (not supplied) above the hand grip, and of course you'd then put your mic pair (one piece ideally) into the mic clip. In handheld use, the recorder below your hand would tend to counterbalance the mic above your hand.
I have a mental picture of my Sennheiser MKH MS mics mounted in this way - what an awesome handheld rig that would make!
In order to attach the recorder/mic combo to a mic stand, if desired, you'd include a suitable adapter from mic stand to camera thread in the kit, to attach to the bottom of the recorder.
You could also include in the kit a couple of short mic leads, say 30cm, for neatly connecting the mics to the recorder without having to deal with dangling wires. And the handgrip could incorporate a trigger to toggle between record and stop when used handheld.
You read it here first.
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I suppose we're all looking at that 1/8th inch input and wishing it would be switchable to accept a commercial line level...?
Scratch that - just re-read Toms comments on the last page...line level too!
Mic and Line level (-10dBV with 20dB headroom) compatible. unbalanced
I can't quite tell from the photos - but is that an inner knob/outer ring setup there?
I was kind of sold on the 680 - but I will probably have enough challenges just going to 4 channels and 24 bits...my primary application, Im usually getting SBD RCA feeds - so the 1/8 input doesn't really scare me.
And the new preamps sound very interesting.
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Tom, how many volts of plug in power?
looks like it can be USB powered (5v) or
Four AA batteries(Alkaline or NI-MH),
USB bus power,
Dedicated AC adapter(TASCAM PS-P515U, sold separately),
Dedicated external battery pack(TASCAM BP-6AA, sold separately)
6 AA or 6 x 1.5 v = 9vdc
which could mean a dvd battery!
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Tom, how many volts of plug in power?
looks like it can be USB powered (5v) or
Four AA batteries(Alkaline or NI-MH),
USB bus power,
Dedicated AC adapter(TASCAM PS-P515U, sold separately),
Dedicated external battery pack(TASCAM BP-6AA, sold separately)
6 AA or 6 x 1.5 v = 9vdc
which could mean a dvd battery!
PIP - mic power on the 3.5mm jack
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Tom, how many volts of plug in power?
looks like it can be USB powered (5v) or
Four AA batteries(Alkaline or NI-MH),
USB bus power,
Dedicated AC adapter(TASCAM PS-P515U, sold separately),
Dedicated external battery pack(TASCAM BP-6AA, sold separately)
6 AA or 6 x 1.5 v = 9vdc
which could mean a dvd battery!
PIP - mic power on the 3.5mm jack
oops... nevermind sorry I did not fully read...
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... the more likely scenario happens whereby there's a write problem on the memory card in the 60D, does the 60D shut down and turn off output to camera, or would it continue that output so you'd still come away with a recording? These days, you run a backup recording chiefly to cover yourself against such a media failure (unless you use a mixer split to two independent recording devices).
Good question. I need to investigate what actually happens. At first you'll probably see an error message "Write Timeout", and the recording will stop. I'm not sure right now whether the output gets interrupted for a split second when the recorder changes states. I'm hoping it doesn't but I can't be 100%.
PIP Mics distort at high SPL unless they are supplied sufficient voltage
True, but Plug in power is a combination of the supplied voltage and the impedance, so depending on the load, the voltage alone doesn't tell you if a particular mic is going to work well or not... P48 phantom power has the impedance explicitly defined, not so for PIP, which is why it becomes a sticky point to compare two products with different PIP ratings...
I can't quite tell from the photos - but is that an inner knob/outer ring setup there?
Sorry, no, it's just a nicely contoured single piece knob.
Thanks to Ozpeter for his rig idea. I'm hoping that NAB will bring up some more ideas for accessories as well, as people start to put a mental picture together of how they are going to use it.
Tom.
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Good question. I need to investigate what actually happens.
Perhaps testing what happens when the card fills up would be a relatively easy test to do (with a small capacity card) and hopefully valid for a write failure - not sure how you'd readily test for that, as you can bet that on the one occasion you actually want a card to fail, it won't!
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Clarification: The Camera OUT signal is not interrupted by transport actions or write errors, REC start/stop etc.
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Excellent, ideal design. Thanks for coming back on that.
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Clarification: The Camera OUT signal is not interrupted by transport actions or write errors, REC start/stop etc.
Is this 4 channel output from the mixer or is this just 2 channels?
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they posted the user manual yesterday http://tascam.com/content/downloads/products/799/e_dr-60d_om_va.pdf
see page 44 for line input info
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Thanks for the manual link. I think I'm going to jump - this looks like the perfect bridge between my recording equipment (esp mics) and my GH1, which so far has only been used with its internal mics (no disaster but not the Real Thing). And it can double as an audio-only recorder (not that I'm short of them....).
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Is the use of the record button to pause, as well as to record, unique? I'm not sure I like the principle of pressing a red record button to STOP recording (at least temporarily). Goes against the grain. Usually pressing record (on other devices I've come across) while record is in progress is a safe thing to do, causing either nothing or the dropping of a marker. I would have thought that pressing the stop button would have been better (then press record to continue after pause, or press stop a second time to come out of record mode altogether and close the file). Still, I'll get used to it. My order is in.
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My LS-10 uses the Record button as a pause as well (and begins in standby on the initial press of Record).
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Tascam still has not added any software updates that allow auto saving the files. At least now they flat out state that if you lose power the files are lost and unrcoverable
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The ability to close the current file and start a new one simply by pressing the "forward" button gives a degree of insurance - for instance you could do that between each song of a live set, and if something went seriously wrong you'd only lose the current song.
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Interesting device. Am I just missing it or does this recorder NOT have a way to power it externally?
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Interesting device. Am I just missing it or does this recorder NOT have a way to power it externally?
Four AA batteries(Alkaline or NI-MH),
USB bus power,
Dedicated AC adapter(TASCAM PS-P515U, sold separately),
Dedicated external battery pack(TASCAM BP-6AA, sold separately)
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The ability to close the current file and start a new one simply by pressing the "forward" button gives a degree of insurance - for instance you could do that between each song of a live set, and if something went seriously wrong you'd only lose the current song.
ok I guess, didn't read that in manual and don't have time right now to do it. I guess that works , yeah sure if you wanna sit there doing that all night long instead of enjoying the show. Still does not help with accidental loss of power or battery dying unexpectedly. You're just fucked. Dunno why Tascam can't write their software to auto save for the DR series decks. They did on the HD-p2 so they do know how. it is one of my biggest complaints with my 680. It has fucked me more than once.
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I guess that works , yeah sure if you wanna sit there doing that all night long instead of enjoying the show.
I invariably drop a marker between each song in a show as it goes along to make it much easier to find stuff later - so this wouldn't be an issue for me, personally. I'd just end up with separate files instead of one big file with markers. But yes, much more humble gear protects files against failures.
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Just got my tracking number, so hopefully I'll have mine before the end of the week (just about). Needless to say I will report back with my opinion!
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Just got my tracking number, so hopefully I'll have mine before the end of the week (just about). Needless to say I will report back with my opinion!
Excellent, thank you!
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I have opened another thread about using this Tascam and other 4-channel recorders on double-system recording setups.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=161774.0
The idea is to use a timecode generator, like the Horita PG-2100 ($ 260), to inject a TC signal on one 1/8" input, low enough so as not to bleed into the other tracks. Also on the DSLR camera audio input.
Then to use that signal to sync video and audio on an NLE such as Avid, where you can use it.
This is an old idea, that I did try in DAT and MD recorders, and it does work. The problem is on the NLE end.
In any case, what I didn't like so much about this Tascam is that the mic amp circuits are not as good as they might be, as those chips do not qualify that well.
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the mic amp circuits are not as good as they might be, as those chips do not qualify that well.
Tascam reps here and elsewhere seem to suggest they are better than in their other small recorders (define "better"!) so presumably they should be no disaster - and bear in mind the price.
Tascam reps are also mentioning on youtube videos that the clock is higher grade than normal to avoid drift when manually syncing to video.
Mine arrives on Monday, just as some renovations are starting on my house, so I may not be able to report much about it for a few days. Unfortunately I have no way to test the timecode idea (not having a tc generator).
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Well, it's arrived and as I expected, I haven't got a chance to do much with it right away, but here's some immediate impressions before I even get to turn it on! -
It's a robust-looking piece of kit, and it's correspondingly heavier than I expected. Mounted beneath my Panasonic GH1 on a bracket that also takes a Rode Stereo Video Mic, it's crying out for a tripod rather than being inviting to use hand-held. This isn't really a criticism, I'm just trying to make it clear that it's not any kind of toy, and its size and weight point to it being designed for serious videographers rather than casual use.
I've also tried it with the Rode mic fixed above the recorder, omitting the camera, to make a hand-held one piece recording device - like the usual "shavers" but with my own choice of mic, not the often-dubious built in ones. That's not too bad for combined weight, but the display angle is not ideal unless the outfit is held rather higher than you would hold a device of the normal form factor.
For a table-top device it should work pretty well, except again the display is vertical and on a table you'd want a bit of an angle towards you. However in that scenario it would be easy to mount it to a low mini-tripod and angle it on the tripod's adjustable head.
All in all it's a nicely designed piece of kit, which looks like it should have been bigger (maybe like an FR2??) but has been shrunk down for video applications. The handles either side not only provide a strap attachment point, but also enable you to put it face down without any of the controls touching the surface it's placed on.
Ah yes - another slight irritation - the screw thread under the device is recessed too far. The bracket I want to mount it on has a screw too short to mate to the device's thread.
So, that's my first thoughts - maybe tomorrow I'll have five spare minutes to actually turn it on!
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Interesting device. Am I just missing it or does this recorder NOT have a way to power it externally?
Four AA batteries(Alkaline or NI-MH),
USB bus power,
Dedicated AC adapter(TASCAM PS-P515U, sold separately),
Dedicated external battery pack(TASCAM BP-6AA, sold separately)
I just left B&H the external power is only $29.98. And take s a few AAs. They were in stock, but I had mine shipped home to avoid tax and not to have to deal with it in an already crowed bag. The staff there said raved about the box even knowing I was prepared to spend more. Can't wait to run it soon. FYI it was $350 out the door.
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Another minor negative, still prior to turning on (!) - to drop a track mark when recording, you press the data dial in. This (unlike any other button on the front) makes a pronounced click sound (acoustically, not electrically) which in some situations would be a nuisance. For instance, when sitting within earshot of an audience at a classical concert and dropping marks between movements of a work etc. If they'd used the silently operating "play" button for marking instead, the problem would have been avoided.
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Stepped preamp gain control?
Fran
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Knobs freely rotate. Still not switched on!! Trying to restore tech systems after major household works.
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Still not switched on!!
LOL...tape yourself fixing stuff so we can get an idea of the mics :-)
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Knobs freely rotate. Still not switched on!! Trying to restore tech systems after major household works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Kl-7vmShkgs
02:10 or so he demos the stepped nature of the input level control.
Fran
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At last, I've turned it on!
I made a quick recording in the garden with a Rode SVM mounted on top of the recorder. At the end I faded it off, and no clicks were audible. Yes, it's stepped, I can hear that listening to a steady sound (tumble drier and washing machine going!) but it's not a big deal in real use. The steps appear finer than with the R44's steps. I'll try and post the samples later. I also recorded indoors - the dogs eating their breakfast, would you believe...
Noise level on 3&4 seems fine, subjectively, in these initial tests. Of course the SVM mic is not the world's quietest. I'll try a night-time test with a Sennheiser MKH MS rig as soon as I can.
Display is a bit small but that's a consequence of including the range of physical controls on the front of a compact body.
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FYI, DSLRFilmNoob did some audio samples. Sounds ok to me on headphones and you do hear the slight clicking when bumping volume via the knobs:
http://www.dslrfilmnoob.com/2013/04/21/tascam-dr-60d-audio-testing/
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I'm thinking about getting this, the dr40 or a juicedlink
I'm leaning heavily toward this because it should have better preamps than the dr40, and can record straight into camera like juicedlink +get audio backup correct?
and do you guys think i should sell my marantz 661 to get another one?
I have an SD Mix Pre D so no need for marantz preamps
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The key thing about the Tascam device is that you are not dependent on the often not-too-good audio input of your camera. The JL device is fine if your camera doesn't mess up the recording from the JL's output. For instance, my camera has no input control apart from auto level, which is far from ideal.
I am still having difficulty finding the time to do much testing of the DR-60D but here, for what they are worth, are a couple of ambient samples. Both are recorded via the 3.5 input jack (ch 3 and 4) from a Rode Stereo Video Mic attached to the top of the recorder, hence a little handling noise. The gain of the Tascam was set to high, and the input knob full up. Both files have been normalised and converted to mp3, otherwise unprocessed. Note that plugin power was off, this being a self powered mic.
First sample - http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/9/22/1451533/Tascam%20garden.mp3
Recorded in a suburban, not very quiet, garden. The mic was protected from the light wind by a "dead kitten". As the file is normalised you shouldn't listen to it at levels greater than you would play a music track, for an authentic experience. After about 3 minutes I faded it off using the Tascam's fader - listen for any clicks. During the fade one of our dogs barks, giving a full scale peak, but bear in mind this was after the level had been faded somewhat, so the bark is actually quieter than it really was in proportion to the background ambience of the earlier part.
Second sample - http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/9/22/1451533/Tascam%20dogs%20dinner.mp3
When I went back indoors the dogs were eating their dinner (two of them) and this was recorded at the same levels etc as the previous sample, but it was normalised separately - correct replay level will be a little lower than the previous sample. For an authentic level replay, it should sound no louder than you would expect two not-big dogs to sound when chomping on their dinner! It was faded in on the Tascam faders. Note that they don't fade to nothing so it starts audible, not silent. They are for level setting rather than fading in and out - the assumption is that the recording will be post-processed to achieve total fades if required. It's easier to hear any mic and preamp noise on this. I would expect the mic to be more noisy than the preamp.
I don't know how much you can really judge by these recordings but for me they show that the noise levels of the Tascam are not bad. Whether they are actually good will be seen when I have the chance to do a clock-tick test using a really good mic, in comparison with the the same test on an R44 (should show whether the Tascam preamps are significantly better or worse than the R44).
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listen for any clicks
...
It's easier to hear any mic and preamp noise on this. I would expect the mic to be more noisy than the preamp.
FWIW, I didn't hear clicks in the first sample or any noise. The airplane and duck were fairly clear :-)
Definitely noise on the 2nd sample though...guess the mic is noisy.
The DR60D's preamps seem good from the first sample if you really had the input knob cranked all the way up.
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The Rode is specced at Equivalent Noise Level (A-weighted) 20dB-A, which is around the point where a mic starts to be classified as not very quiet - though in practical use (apart from nature recording) it's no disaster.
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Tascam still has not added any software updates that allow auto saving the files. At least now they flat out state that if you lose power the files are lost and unrcoverable
It's not as bad as it sounds. When the voltage drops too low, the DR-60D stops recording cleanly and displays "Battery Low".
In this state, it won't let you start another recording. You get advance warning before "battery low" because the battery icon would
be blinking.
If you were on external power, with no batteries installed and you pulled the external power during a recording, that one file will be lost, but the rest of the files on the card would be fine.
You'd have to try hard to mess this up in normal use, just keep batteries installed at all times even when using external power.
Tom (TASCAM).
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Tascam still has not added any software updates that allow auto saving the files. At least now they flat out state that if you lose power the files are lost and unrcoverable
It's not as bad as it sounds. When the voltage drops too low, the DR-60D stops recording cleanly and displays "Battery Low".
In this state, it won't let you start another recording. You get advance warning before "battery low" because the battery icon would
be blinking.
If you were on external power, with no batteries installed and you pulled the external power during a recording, that one file will be lost, but the rest of the files on the card would be fine.
You'd have to try hard to mess this up in normal use, just keep batteries installed at all times even when using external power.
Tom (TASCAM).
Tom, I assume your from Tascam.....Can you tell us why with the talented people that are obviously employed there writing software, that there is not some kind of file recovery tool offered up by Tascam for the occasion that power is accidentally lost? for instance in the field when AC power is not an option and you have batteries give out on you. In some cases that "one" file amounts to a whole set of music being lost. The one set can be a huge issue if it is something that there is no back up for and a hour or so worth of filming is now useless. And another question I'd like to pose is, can you tell us the reason that Tascam chose to not have the file write automatically ( like the HD-P2 does) ? Sorry to put you on the spot, but to be honest Tascam customer support has be less than responsive in the past. I know you are only the messenger but you are also the only person who has given me (us) a chance to talk with a Tascam rep directly. And, no I don't own the 60D but do own two 680's and the last time I tried to get in touch with support it took months literally.
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And another question I'd like to pose is, can you tell us the reason that Tascam chose to not have the file write automatically ( like the HD-P2 does) ?
Simply put, the "Low Battery" feature solves the problem, but without requiring the extra CPU power and data throughput of constantly seeking / rewriting / closing and re-opening the file being recorded.
Even with this feature, If losing data because of power-dropout was a real problem, I'm sure our customer support staff would be passing on the complaints. That they are not shows that except for extraordinary accidents, this approach is working.
Tom (TASCAM).
All emails into our customer support staff are read, and requests for feature improvements are summarized back to the R&D departments, so that is always a good way to get your ideas heard.
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for instance in the field when AC power is not an option and you have batteries give out on you.
When the voltage drops too low, the DR-60D stops recording cleanly and displays "Battery Low".
As Tom said, that is exactly the scenario that which would not result in data loss.
Data loss can only arise in the opposite scenario to the one you quote - when you are not in the field, you are using mains power, and you haven't got batteries installed (or charged) and the mains fails. In that situation, you'd probably only have yourself to blame.
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I also recorded indoors - the dogs eating their breakfast, would you believe...
Now that is a good thing to record. How do you mic a dog?
Richard
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How do you mic a dog?
Well - you certainly have to be careful they don't notice the dead cat.
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And another question I'd like to pose is, can you tell us the reason that Tascam chose to not have the file write automatically ( like the HD-P2 does) ?
Simply put, the "Low Battery" feature solves the problem, but without requiring the extra CPU power and data throughput of constantly seeking / rewriting / closing and re-opening the file being recorded.
Even with this feature, If losing data because of power-dropout was a real problem, I'm sure our customer support staff would be passing on the complaints. That they are not shows that except for extraordinary accidents, this approach is working.
Tom (TASCAM).
All emails into our customer support staff are read, and requests for feature improvements are summarized back to the R&D departments, so that is always a good way to get your ideas heard.
Tom,
Thank you for a prompt reply. But truth is if I searched here and on gear slutz I could find multiple posts lamenting the fact there are files lost after an unexpected power loss.
I don't want to turn this discussion about the 60D into something else and derail the thread. BUT, I will point you to this thread:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=153114.0;all
And, I know for a fact that any post on the Tascam facebook page that are complaints get deleted. I know that for sure because it happened to me, and now I cannot even post on the Tascam FB page. I'd would love to offer up some more experiences an maybe that is best done in another thread or via PM's, Kirk
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Here's a dynamic range test of the DR-60D.
http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/9/22/1451533/Mower%20and%20room%20render.mp3
The recording was made with an MS pair of Sennheiser MKH series mics.
The first 30 seconds are of a lawnmower (rated at 70dBA) recorded at a distance of about 1 metre. It's LOUD. The second 30 seconds use the same gain settings to record the sound of a barely audible clock in a quiet room (but in daytime rather than night, which might have been quieter).
You can listen to this two ways. Either play back the first loud part at what seems to be the volume you'd expect to hear from a motor mower just in front of you (as if you were using it). Then when you get to the quiet bit, can you hear the clock - should just be possible - and can you hear any system noise?
Or, when you get to the second part, play it back so you can just hear the little clock, like I just could in the room for real. You have to listen hard to hear it tick once a second. Do you hear any system noise when the clock can only just be heard? Then play the first part - is it then painfully loud? (That's my experience).
My view is that this recording shows that this combination of mic and recorder has a dynamic range which equals that of the human ear - from loud to soft - without you being aware of system noise.
The jury is out - you decide!
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So if I'm thinking of getting into SBD feeds this unit is a good choice? RCA's out of the board to line 3/4 stereo mini in? If that's the case I'm all over this.
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So if I'm thinking of getting into SBD feeds this unit is a good choice? RCA's out of the board to the 3/4 stereo mini in? If that's the case I'm all over this.
To record 4 channels with this deck, don't you HAVE TO use the internal mics ??? I could've sworn I read that yesterday when I was on tascams website looking over the dr680.
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So if I'm thinking of getting into SBD feeds this unit is a good choice? RCA's out of the board to line 3/4 stereo mini in? If that's the case I'm all over this.
From page one (Tom Duffy @ TASCAM):
Mic and Line level (-10dBV with 20dB headroom) compatible. unbalanced because it's a stereo input. This would be a great way to get audio from a wireless receiver into the DR-60D.
So, yes, you can run phantom power on 1 & 2 via XLR and then run RCA's out of the SBD > 1/8" via the stereo in. I would assume 20dB headroom and -10dBV should be safe enough for even older boards.
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To record 4 channels with this deck, don't you HAVE TO use the internal mics ??? I could've sworn I read that yesterday when I was on tascams website looking over the dr680.
No, you don't have to use the internal mics. Indeed, that would be a bit tricky, as it doesn't have any. ;)
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Wow, tascam is really starting to put out soe very nice products!
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To record 4 channels with this deck, don't you HAVE TO use the internal mics ??? I could've sworn I read that yesterday when I was on tascams website looking over the dr680.
No, you don't have to use the internal mics. Indeed, that would be a bit tricky, as it doesn't have any. ;)
Oops, my bad. I wonder which one of their devices I was looking at yesterday?
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So many devices to look at, so little ready cash to buy with... :)
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So if I'm thinking of getting into SBD feeds this unit is a good choice? RCA's out of the board to line 3/4 stereo mini in? If that's the case I'm all over this.
From page one (Tom Duffy @ TASCAM):
Mic and Line level (-10dBV with 20dB headroom) compatible. unbalanced because it's a stereo input. This would be a great way to get audio from a wireless receiver into the DR-60D.
So, yes, you can run phantom power on 1 & 2 via XLR and then run RCA's out of the SBD > 1/8" via the stereo in. I would assume 20dB headroom and -10dBV should be safe enough for even older boards.
Thanks, I saw that quote but was looking for a more direct answer as most of this stuff goes right over my head. :laugh: Power supply is my next concern. I'd rather not have to deal with 10 rechargeable AA's, so I'm guessing a 9V DVD battery would work? Also, 4 mics. I don't see why I couldn't run 2 into CH. 1&2 with phantom and two battery powered mics into CH. 3/4. I'm thinking a 4 mic Nak mix. 2 CM1000's and two CM700's with internal batteries would be nice.
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I'd rather not have to deal with 10 rechargeable AA's,
Ten? It takes four. So maybe eight for a spare set, but it should run on a decent battery pack with usb output (5v).
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I'd rather not have to deal with 10 rechargeable AA's,
Ten? It takes four. So maybe eight for a spare set, but it should run on a decent battery pack with usb output (5v).
I was adding the external battery pack. 4+6
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This was something I considered before going down the 680 path. All and all I'm glad I went with the 680. I'm getting more and more photography but I haven't been bit by the video bug to the point where I want my audio rig to be designed around my photo rig. Honestly I was wondering how I would get the thing to stay put in my bag. Neither this or the 680 is a SD or a diva but, even with some of the 680's issues, I have more confidence in it for concert taping.
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I just received my email from Markertek and they shared this video of the 60-D... maybe it's been posted here of everyone's already seen it, but here it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAvQghQwUUs&feature=share&list=UU6If5myxm_Gb39PMW2hjMLw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAvQghQwUUs&feature=share&list=UU6If5myxm_Gb39PMW2hjMLw)
--Ian
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So, has anybody else got anything to report further on this deck? Was considering picking up a pair of AKG Active PFA's and running P48 and I came back to this deck. I know the R-26 is also a contender but not sure which route I want to go.
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So, has anybody else got anything to report further on this deck? Was considering picking up a pair of AKG Active PFA's and running P48 and I came back to this deck. I know the R-26 is also a contender but not sure which route I want to go.
Never mind, folks. I had a couple of PM's responded to from a couple of respected 60D owners and, combined with the price I was offered, it was a no-brainer. It'll do what I need it do.
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And, I know for a fact that any post on the Tascam facebook page that are complaints get deleted. I know that for sure because it happened to me, and now I cannot even post on the Tascam FB page.
lol
Sounds like tascam is top notch to deal with
So, has anybody else got anything to report further on this deck? Was considering picking up a pair of AKG Active PFA's and running P48
would love to hear these
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can anyone point me to some concert recording with one of these?
I assume the recordings are time coded and can be mixed fast and easy?
The slate feature seems kick ass for my video stuff too
thanks
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can anyone point me to some concert recording with one of these?
I assume the recordings are time coded and can be mixed fast and easy?
The slate feature seems kick ass for my video stuff too
thanks
I would've but mine's been sitting in a box since December when I picked it up and it'll be god knows how long before I use it.
I know Teddy did a show or two with one. And I think a couple of other people have as well. Having clock sync for P48 and 1/8" is great for matrices. :)
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Thanks
Found a few busman samples on archive and they sound good
The two things I am worried about are the battery life, which can be "fixed" and the gain knobs clicking
There are YouTube videos where you can clearly hear the clicks as gain is adjusted
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I'm not 100% positive but I think the clicking is "less noticeable" since the last firmware update but I can't be 100% certain on that.
As for battery life, I picked up an 11000mAh USB battery and have tested it with the device (and a DR-2D with USB > 5V cable) and can confirm that it powers it just fine. I can't say for how long but I'm sure that would give me more than enough "extra time" for a festy situation. I won't know until I get to one of those in June (depending on everything else going on -- bracing for bad news).
I think for the price point that it's a good little device. Not perfect but also not $429 like, or as heavy as, the 680. I needed P48/XLR and 1/8" and this gave me that in a pretty small, lighweight box.
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Thanks for the info
I think this would be a nice way to make my video projects easier and allow me to have one box vs two m10
I could always do a comp too buy running mics > little box > RCA out and 1/8 out at the same time, m10/dr60d
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Are you currently running audio out of M10's into a camera? I'm wondering whether to run an attenuator cable out of the m10 into my camera, but aren't sure what level of attenuation is needed?
The 60D seems to solve this by offering an adjustable level out to the camera.
What's the benefit of running audio into the camera directly as opposed to letting the camera record the room and then syncing the audio recorder and the camera audio later?
For existing 60d users, any comments on how well the 60d appears to hold sync with your camera?
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Are you currently running audio out of M10's into a camera? I'm wondering whether to run an attenuator cable out of the m10 into my camera, but aren't sure what level of attenuation is needed?
The 60D seems to solve this by offering an adjustable level out to the camera.
What's the benefit of running audio into the camera directly as opposed to letting the camera record the room and then syncing the audio recorder and the camera audio later?
For existing 60d users, any comments on how well the 60d appears to hold sync with your camera?
Clock drift. Without genlock or wordclock to sync the two devices, over time the slight difference in timing crystal frequency will cause the two sources to vary. by recording into the camera directly, you avoid this issue. (one reason why the DR60 allows you to mix xlr and line inputs before outputing unbalanced signal.)
Clock drift can be corrected for but it's a pain in the ass on longer recordings. How to do so has been covered here in the forums.
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Are you currently running audio out of M10's into a camera? I'm wondering whether to run an attenuator cable out of the m10 into my camera, but aren't sure what level of attenuation is needed?
The 60D seems to solve this by offering an adjustable level out to the camera.
What's the benefit of running audio into the camera directly as opposed to letting the camera record the room and then syncing the audio recorder and the camera audio later?
For existing 60d users, any comments on how well the 60d appears to hold sync with your camera?
yes I am running from my m10 into a canon r300 and before that a zr800
100% use line out and not headphone out. I learned the hard way last week that the headphone out is way to noisy and ended up with just static overall.
I had to use a -20db attenuating Cable with the zr800, no questions asked.
With the r300 I have a meter on screen and with the cable and without the cable the meter doesn't change visually but on playback the audio is slightly lower with the attenuating cable in the chain.
I thought the cable might have been broke but it clearly drops the signal if I run headphone out. I have no clue why line out it isn't dropping the signal though. I actually will prob start a thread asking about it.
The advantage is not having to synch in post which can be a total pain. Even when it's not a pain it still saves time.
The dr60d appeals to me because I can have an out designed to go into a camera/camcorder plus the added benefit of level adjust if need be as backup.
I just wish I could get one as a trial to test the sound vs a m10
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I had a discussion with a sales rep at B & H today about the 60d. Among other things, he said they have a 30 day return if I don't like it. So I take it from that B & H wouldn't be opposed to a buy it/try it, but you could always call them directly to confirm this before ordering. I didn't ask what their return policy would be insofar as opening and using the PE3 software would be.
I have an HF200 that seems to take a strong signal, but my HF M500 seems to need attenuation.
I'm wondering how sensitive the meter in the camera really is. Maybe the attenuation just doesn't show up that much in the meter? I suppose you could run a known test signal though both ways and then check the db level in your DAW?
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As for battery life, I picked up an 11000mAh USB battery and have tested it with the device (and a DR-2D with USB > 5V cable) and can confirm that it powers it just fine. I can't say for how long but I'm sure that would give me more than enough "extra time" for a festy situation. I won't know until I get to one of those in June (depending on everything else going on -- bracing for bad news).
I would like more information on an external rechargable battery to use. What brand and where did you get it? Can you guess how long it might last?
Thanks,
Glenn
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Any external Li=Ion with USB output should work. Higher MAh rating the longer the run time. I wouldn't be too concerned. I bet some of the many USB batts favored on TS would power this unit for hours. Anker Astro pro or the Tekkeon, or the Nastech...
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...
I had to use a -20db attenuating Cable with the zr800, no questions asked.
With the r300 I have a meter on screen and with the cable and without the cable the meter doesn't change visually but on playback the audio is slightly lower with the attenuating cable in the chain.
I thought the cable might have been broke but it clearly drops the signal if I run headphone out. I have no clue why line out it isn't dropping the signal though. I actually will prob start a thread asking about it. ...
Is it possible that the auto-level in the camera is boosting your attenuated signal?
Fran
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...
I had to use a -20db attenuating Cable with the zr800, no questions asked.
With the r300 I have a meter on screen and with the cable and without the cable the meter doesn't change visually but on playback the audio is slightly lower with the attenuating cable in the chain.
I thought the cable might have been broke but it clearly drops the signal if I run headphone out. I have no clue why line out it isn't dropping the signal though. I actually will prob start a thread asking about it. ...
Is it possible that the auto-level in the camera is boosting your attenuated signal?
Fran
i don't think so but i can check setting agains tomorrow
the headphone out is clearly showing a signal drop but line out isn't
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Thanks, I saw that quote but was looking for a more direct answer as most of this stuff goes right over my head. :laugh: Power supply is my next concern. I'd rather not have to deal with 10 rechargeable AA's, so I'm guessing a 9V DVD battery would work? Also, 4 mics. I don't see why I couldn't run 2 into CH. 1&2 with phantom and two battery powered mics into CH. 3/4. I'm thinking a 4 mic Nak mix. 2 CM1000's and two CM700's with internal batteries would be nice.
Do It!
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I picked up one of these from B&H and I can't wait to try 4 channel recordings, I have a USBPRE2 for channel 3/4.
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This should be a nice upgrade from my (former) zoom h4n. ;D
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For peeps wanting to run an external battery, think about the following:
http://www.amazon.com/10000mAh-Smartphones-USB-charged-Adapters--Lightning/dp/B009USAJCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392726934&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+1000mah
Works like a charm. I've got one and it powers it perfectly. I don't know for how long but with a full charge, I'm assuming I'd _easily_ get away with a day for P48.
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If the external battery conks out, does the DR-60 seamlessly switch over to internal batteries? Has anyone tested this?
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There is a review on Amazon where the reviewer says if connected to AC power via the USB connection, it will seamlessly connect to the internal batteries if the USB is disconnected. I suppose it will seamlessly switch. Prior posts in this thread have warned that one better periodically save the file because all files will be lost if there is a complete power failure and the files weren't saved.
My question is whether the DR60d can be safely powered via a USB battery like adrianf posted or if there is going to be another group of sad 60d owners like 680 owners who found out that 680 will be messed up by the wrong external power pack.
An external battery pack is obviously needed in many situations.
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I'm surprised that there is this much interest in the DR60D here on TS, considering the availability of the Roland R26. The latter seems smaller volumetrically and has better battery life (?). I also suspect it has better preamps but stand to be corrected. Or am I talking out of my rear here?
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I'm surprised that there is this much interest in the DR60D here on TS, considering the availability of the Roland R26. The latter seems smaller volumetrically and has better battery life (?). I also suspect it has better preamps but stand to be corrected. Or am I talking out of my rear here?
Price: $500 vs $200 (right now)
Thinking about it in terms of $$/channel, at this price the DR-60d is $50/channel, roughly the same as the DR-680 is going for lately.
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I'm surprised that there is this much interest in the DR60D here on TS, considering the availability of the Roland R26. The latter seems smaller volumetrically and has better battery life (?). I also suspect it has better preamps but stand to be corrected. Or am I talking out of my rear here?
Options.
I can use it like my sony m10 as a bit bucket for my USB PRE2, or I can use it for 2 mics and a sbd feed, or I can use it as a 4 channel recorder with p48 for channel 1 & 2, and the USB PRE2 for channel 3/4.
Its small, so its not a much larger footprint than a Sony m-10 and its a pretty good deal at $200.
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Price: $500 vs $200 (right now)
This. And if the Plural Eyes software that B&H is throwing in works as advertised it will save me a ton of time processing video with external audio.
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Its small, so its not a much larger footprint than a Sony m-10 and its a pretty good deal at $200.
Well, the 60D is about 6x the size of the m10 volume-wise (59.03 in.3 vs 10.125 in.3). That's not really a big deal if you're doing video/4chan, but the current price is about all these two recorders have in common.
Oddly, the black M10 at B&H is now at $245, the white is holding steady at $229, and the red is still $209. I should have my red one Friday.
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@ GDfan ^^^^ technically neither the M-10 or the DR-60D are bit buckets since they have no digital in... but may be I'm wrong. As I understand Bit bucket usually refers to a recorder with digi in, as in it's only recording the bit's sent to it.
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I contacted Busman and he quoted me a $200 price to mod all 4 channels.
Busman DR60-D >:D
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I contacted Busman and he quoted me a $200 price to mod all 4 channels.
Busman DR60-D >:D
Well then it looks like I know what my first upgrade will be! NICE! >:D
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i'm hoping it doesn't need a mod
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I contacted Busman and he quoted me a $200 price to mod all 4 channels.
Busman DR60-D >:D
To repeat what I wrote in the retail thread on this deck, interesting and good to hear. From what I've read, the stock DR-60 pres, while slightly different from the DR-680's, are supposedly just as good. And with the anecdotes of the -680's pres being a little better than the stock Roland/Edirol R-44/-88's, I wonder how much of an improvement will be heard from a mod? Please keep us posted.
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I wish Tascam would figure out Sony's secret for battery life in the M10 and build its units to that quality.
Waiting on my 60d to arrive....
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I wonder how much of an improvement will be heard from a mod?
The chance of hearing (in an objective test) a real world actual "improvement" from any of these mods to any well designed device is pretty small. I mean, delivering a noticeably flatter response and noticeably lower noise at normal levels. What you might hear is a change in the recorded sound which the modder deems to be an improvement - but is really simply a matter of personal preference and taste. Most of the devices you hear of being modded have a ruler flat frequency response and inaudible noise levels* in the first place. And there seems to be a dearth of before-and-after tests for most if not all mods.
* for music. OK, for nature recording where you are greatly amplifying the original levels, there could be room for improvement.
And now, back to the topic..
Funny that someone above mentioned having left their DR-60D in the box for months. Same here. I really, really wanted mine - but I've not yet found what for. Typical case of gear lust.
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Would anyone mind posting some pictures? Sounds like its small, but I'm having a hard time visualizing the actual size. Thanks.
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Would anyone mind posting some pictures? Sounds like its small, but I'm having a hard time visualizing the actual size. Thanks.
small is relative
I took some cardboard and made one based on b&h info and it was way bigger then my m10 and tb combo
About 2.5 times bigger but still way smaller then my fr2le
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Okay, thanks.
I did a quick google search and saw this brief overview video. Got a decent feel for its size. May be slightly larger than I'm looking for.
Anyone know if it will fit vertically into a sonicase shelf? I'm almost positive it won't, but if anyone had the ability to test it I would greatly appreciate it.
http://vimeo.com/64122825
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Mine hasn't arrived, but surely someone who has a 60d can post a picture next to an M10.
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Mine hasn't arrived, but surely someone who has a 60d can post a picture next to an M10.
That would a nice size comp
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Why?
In my mind they serve pretty different functions. One is a handheld, the other is not. One is two track, the other 4. One has phantom, the other doesn't. In choosing what recorder to buy size is obviously a factor, but the functions of these two put them in entirely different camps for me. Just for interest's sake I'm curious, but personally think the vastly different functionality of the two would be more to consider than the size.
M10 to a DR-2d would be a much more appropriate comparison to me.
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Why?
In my mind they serve pretty different functions. One is a handheld, the other is not. One is two track, the other 4. One has phantom, the other doesn't. In choosing what recorder to buy size is obviously a factor, but the functions of these two put them in entirely different camps for me. Just for interest's sake I'm curious, but personally think the vastly different functionality of the two would be more to consider than the size.
M10 to a DR-2d would be a much more appropriate comparison to me.
only for size.... maybe a DR -680 an M-10, FR2-LE Dr2-d, etc....
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That makes sense. Would be kind of fun to get all the popular, available devices in one shot. handhelds M10s/R09s up through like a Tascam HS-P82.
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DR-60D with Sony PCM D50, Tascam DR-07, DR-05
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv96/hoppedup_36/20140224_182601Medium.jpg) (http://s673.photobucket.com/user/hoppedup_36/media/20140224_182601Medium.jpg.html)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv96/hoppedup_36/20140224_182657Medium.jpg) (http://s673.photobucket.com/user/hoppedup_36/media/20140224_182657Medium.jpg.html)
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Would be kind of fun to get all the popular, available devices in one shot. handhelds M10s/R09s up through like a Tascam HS-P82.
We need a couple of sluts for that. :P
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M10 w/tinybox
Overall the m10 is about 4x smaller then the dr60d
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nice photos, even though the DR-60 is bigger than some units it's still a nice size for a XLR phantom and 4 channel recorder. maybe not the smallest, but compact. at $200 it's a steal.
I like th efor factor with controls and knobs on the front/top surface, compared to other smaller more compact decks.
I think I may need one.
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I think I may need one.
When I go into gear shops and the assistant comes up to me and asks if there's anything I'm looking for, I always reply, pretty truthfully, "I'm looking for something that I didn't know I needed"!
Nice photos above.
The 60D is neck-hangable, if that's handy for you, unlike most.
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I think I may need one.
The 60D is neck-hangable, if that's handy for you, unlike most.
you can also remove the top mount fast and easy with a flat head screwdriver of prob even a coin
That would knock the size down a half inch prob
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^^^ exactly. I'd remove the camera mount unless I needed it .
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started out the day about 10am with an M10 and the DR 60d running side by side until about 3 pm. The 60d hungrily ate 3 sets of alkaline batteries on phantom power. Each set came out hot to the touch. The M10 was running on batteries that have been in it for how long, and kept going. I was using an external battery box on the m10.
I need to listen to the recordings with fresh ears, but I think I'm hearing hiss on the Tascam's medium recording setting going into my camcorder. The audio on the Tascam itself seems okay.
First impression, if I could only have one unit, for $200 stick I'd still buy the M10. I can put the M10, a BB, and two mics in my camera case with my camera and extra lens with no problem. Not sure how to carry the Tascam. I took it in the factory box today after reading that someone broke the ear mounts when they put it in their camera bag.
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started out the day about 10am with an M10 and the DR 60d running side by side until about 3 pm. The 60d hungrily ate 3 sets of alkaline batteries on phantom power. Each set came out hot to the touch. The M10 was running on batteries that have been in it for how long, and kept going. I was using an external battery box on the m10.
I need to listen to the recordings with fresh ears, but I think I'm hearing hiss on the Tascam's medium recording setting going into my camcorder. The audio on the Tascam itself seems okay.
First impression, if I could only have one unit, for $200 stick I'd still buy the M10. I can put the M10, a BB, and two mics in my camera case with my camera and extra lens with no problem. Not sure how to carry the Tascam. I took it in the factory box today after reading that someone broke the ear mounts when they put it in their camera bag.
where you feeding the dr60d anything while recording?
There are reviews on youtube showing the noise when nothing is feed to it but when send a signal the noise can't be heard
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I was recording a variety of duets, trios, large ensemble, you name it into the DR 60d and running a signal out of the 60d into the camcorder. Maybe the 10' cable between the 60d and the camera was too long? I wanted a shorter cable, but didn't see the one I wanted in stock when I ordered the 60d.
Or maybe I didn't have the output gain from the 60d and the input gain on the camera set just right?
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home tests
AKG ck61 >
1) TB > DR-60D w/channels 3/4 > Canon r300
2) TB > M10 > Canon
3) TB > Canon
wasn't able to run a dual test at the same time but that doesn't matter for my test of going into a camcorder
DR-60D def has a "hiss" in the background of softer and more quite parts.
louder and more constant music (recorded from computer speakers playing iTunes) seems ok
as stated above the audio recordings do not have the hiss at all, it is 100% related to the camera/line out jacks
M10 could have slight hiss, not sure if it did or if I was just used to hearing it from the DR-60D samples
Gain on DR-60D
good news, you can not hear the clicking as you adjust the gain like shown in many youtube videos
bottom line on my fast home test is that unless you want 4 channels or NEED to have better control over your levels going to a camcorder the M10 will beat the DR-60D on battery life and noise
for the size the DR-60D is compact overall and with 48v it is the smallest all in one I have personally held
EDIT - just saw this
http://www.uniquesquared.com/blog/pro-audio/tascam-dr-60d-review/
"Some users have described problems with the camera’s audio when sampling in post. Specifically, the noise generated from the DR-60D when attached to the bottom of DSLR cameras. However the audio recorded on the DR-60D’s SD card remains noise-less and sounding great. Chalk it up to the inherent problem with running audio through a camera that sees audio as an afterthought. This seems to be a general problem with DSLR’s than it is with the DR-60D."
Not sure I see it as a camera issue since the M10 > canon seem muchhhhh better if not fine
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hmmm....design flaw? Wonder if this may be a reason for such a heavy discount?!! ???
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My one experience yesterday was disappointing hiss out to the camcorder (user error on my part still not ruled out), but the internal audio on the 60d didn't seem hissy. If user experience is that the audio feed to a DSLR is hissy, that means having to replace the audio in video editing instead of having an immediately useable mix right on the camera, IMO.
Agree with willndmb that the reason for the 60d would be the 4 channels + phantom power in one box + built in feed to camcorder (with hiss being possible issue given my one limited experience thus far).
Think we need a head to head controlled audio test of DR-680 v. Dr 60d using same mics maybe on a piano.
I also want to do a test to see how well the 60d and the Canon HF M500 maintain sync over longer periods of recording.
I had the 60d sitting on the padded seat next to me yesterday laying face up towards me. Not quite sure how best to mount it. Thinking about some kind of yoke mount (attach to bottom and top of 60d like a yoke for support) to go on my super clamp. (M10-no problem mounting on a swivel camera mount--easy, easy, easy).
The 60d rectangular boxy size is at once good and not so good. It's good for access for the physical controls. It's not so good from the standpoint how to carry it or mount it to my thinking. Or at least it's unusual compared to the shape of other recorders to which I am accustomed, and that is forcing me to have to re-think these issues in actual use. It doesn't lend itself to laying there quite like a 680. I don't see mounting it to a tripod with a camera on top for my purposes. I'd like to be able to mount it so I can tilt the viewing screen to however I'm sitting.
Got to address the battery life some way.
Slate button seems to have a slight delay before it actually makes the beep on the audio. Negative is that you've got to edit out the beep if it's in the middle of a longer take. I haven't quite figured out whether it's best to let the camcorder and the DR60d run for a long time with slates at the beginning and end or taking multiple shorter takes. The multiple shorter takes make for more confusion in editing to my thinking.
Having used a Dr2d, the menu is familiar. For someone who hasn't used a Tascam with a similar menu before, I could see the possibility for user confusion.
The physical control surfaces appear laid out well, IMO.
DR-680 seemed to have an edge in being able to gang channels 1 and 2 together. Not sure if this is even possible on the 60d. I had to adjust gain several times yesterday (kids all over the place volume wise), and it's not so easy to adjust channels 1 and 2 together quickly at the same time that I'm seeing so far. Although the ability to use dual tracks is there, that's another set of files to keep up with.
Other suggestions and perspectives very much appreciated.
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I just did another home test with some audio from iTunes & results are sad for video
SP BMC 2 mics > TB > splitter >
1) M10 (line out w/Attenuator cable)> Canon r300
2) DR-60D (camera out at "5") > Canon r300
levels where as close as I could get them and all cables where the exact make ran into two r300 at once
clips of 2 songs randomly selected by clicking the mouse wherever it happened to be and a bit of silence at the end
you can clearly hear how bad the dr-60d noise is
the audio samples themselves sound far better
https://www.dropbox.com/s/798pvxg7gq6rkie/dr60dSamples.zip
if you need dropbox you get get it here and that will also give me some free space https://db.tt/QQ9E0bL
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I think this sucks for users who buy it just run the audio into a camera. Personally, I plan to use the bundled Plural Eyes to help sync audio from external sources. Maybe that's why it was bundled to begin with?
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I think this sucks for users who buy it just run the audio into a camera. Personally, I plan to use the bundled Plural Eyes to help sync audio from external sources. Maybe that's why it was bundled to begin with?
if you are going to mix in post anyway its fine but for me I wanted to have one box vs two and save mix in post time
Not happening with good results
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I think this sucks for users who buy it just run the audio into a camera. Personally, I plan to use the bundled Plural Eyes to help sync audio from external sources. Maybe that's why it was bundled to begin with?
The bundled software, AFAIK, was only available from B&H so I wouldn't say that's why.
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I will test mine this weekend running audio into the camera from the DR-60D and see if I have the same results.
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^^ ditto
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I'm not sure if the hiss is that much of a concern. Isn't the main point of this package that you want to capture the high quality audio on the DR-60D, then sync it to the video in post? The ADCs on the Tascam are hopefully better than going line out, preamps on the camera, then ADC on the camera. I assume that is why they are including PluralEyes in the deal too.
I was assuming that the line out to the camera is just for easier sync'ing purposes (hence the slate button).
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I'd like to be able to mount it so I can tilt the viewing screen to however I'm sitting.
Maybe attach it to one of those cheap mini tripods, the ones that are only a few inches high?
http://www.binglee.com.au/inca-535291-mini-tripod?gclid=CID-sOTt77wCFRRufgodNSQABg
As for power, if you know you are going to running for an extended period, one of those rechargeable power packs intended for recharging mobile phones should work.
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As for power, if you know you are going to running for an extended period, one of those rechargeable power packs intended for recharging mobile phones should work.
Indeed... the Anker branded 10000mAh battery works well with the 60D. I've said it previously, and I'll say it again, anybody looking to run this device should run one of these. Period. You should be able to run a full day at a festival without needing to worry if you're 60D's gonna last. For those looking for the link...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009USAJCC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ak9600-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B009USAJCC
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I'm not sure if the hiss is that much of a concern. Isn't the main point of this package that you want to capture the high quality audio on the DR-60D, then sync it to the video in post? The ADCs on the Tascam are hopefully better than going line out, preamps on the camera, then ADC on the camera. I assume that is why they are including PluralEyes in the deal too.
I was assuming that the line out to the camera is just for easier sync'ing purposes (hence the slate button).
did you listen to the samples?
imo the m10 is better then the dr60d anyway so unless you want 4 channels or a small 48v all in one there is no advantage of using this over the m10
plus if you are on a mac tcp has a built in synch feature that does exactly what pe3 is meant for anyway
curious to see others test results before i send mine back i suppose its possible that I got a bum unit but i don't think so
edit, maybe i'll do a straight silence sample
i'll record using the cameras built in mic then plug in the out from the dr60d and see if/how it changes
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Not yet! I'm on a PC and it doesn't like your file names (I think the ">" is illegal in Windows). I'll give it a listen when I get home on my Mac.
I'm just thinking that the audio you feed into the camera will get replaced by the audio that you record onto the DR-60D. In other words, the audio on the video track is just a "rough" version. The audio that you record on the DR-60D can be 24 bit where you can dial in the gain and add any eq you like in post. Whereas on the camera (at least on MY cameras) the audio is 16-bit, so I wouldn't be able to modify it as much as the 24-bit version.
Anyway, that is the way I'm thinking of using it. I normally go from my PSP2 > camera, but the deal is still the same -- I usually end up replacing the audio with a processed version. The 4-channel and the slate feature appealed to me.
I'm just videoing my kids anyway, so it's probably overkill. But then again, isn't that the fun of taping? :D (obaaron knows -- he's seen my rig)
Did you mean FCP (you wrote tcp)? I didn't know it had a sync feature. I'll look into how to do it! Thanks!
I'm not sure if the hiss is that much of a concern. Isn't the main point of this package that you want to capture the high quality audio on the DR-60D, then sync it to the video in post? The ADCs on the Tascam are hopefully better than going line out, preamps on the camera, then ADC on the camera. I assume that is why they are including PluralEyes in the deal too.
I was assuming that the line out to the camera is just for easier sync'ing purposes (hence the slate button).
did you listen to the samples?
imo the m10 is better then the dr60d anyway so unless you want 4 channels or a small 48v all in one there is no advantage of using this over the m10
plus if you are on a mac tcp has a built in synch feature that does exactly what pe3 is meant for anyway
curious to see others test results before i send mine back i suppose its possible that I got a bum unit but i don't think so
edit, maybe i'll do a straight silence sample
i'll record using the cameras built in mic then plug in the out from the dr60d and see if/how it changes
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Fcp yes, damn ipad and me never get along
What I do is tell it to make a multi cam clip and it synchs everything then you can select what cam angle and/or audio to use
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Well...I think the normal expectation would be that feeding audio into a camera from the 60d would produce a better recording on the theory that the mics are better and the preamp in the 60d would be better than in the camera. However, the camera audio I got yesterday was hissy to my ears. signal chain Line audio CM3s>60d>Canon HF M500.
In the comparison that willndmd posted, the M10 has better audio, IMO, and that's what really counts.
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Thanks for the samples guys. I agree, there is a lot of hiss and it's pretty disappointing. All of the outs produce this, such as the line out and headphone out?
willndmb -- there seems to also be a high pitch sound that is absent from 2manyrocks' recording.
Anyway, I don't think I'll return it when I get it. I never planned to use the camera out for anything other than an audio track that would be replaced. Still, it's pretty disappointing from the standpoint that from a company like Tascam, if you do something, you should do it right.
Well...I think the normal expectation would be that feeding audio into a camera from the 60d would produce a better recording on the theory that the mics are better and the preamp in the 60d would be better than in the camera. However, the camera audio I got yesterday was hissy to my ears. signal chain Line audio CM3s>60d>Canon HF M500.
In the comparison that willndmd posted, the M10 has better audio, IMO, and that's what really counts.
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I'd be a bit cautious about drawing too much of a general conclusion re the quality of the output to camera. There's a lot of variables here (eg how the gain structure was set up, possible impedance mismatch, how the camera audio input was set up, etc. Perhaps a good test would be to try running the output from the Tascam into the input of a "known quality" device such as the M10, and see whether the result is something significantly hissy or not. And perhaps it needs to be borne in mind that the output to the camera is chiefly for sync purposes rather than something intended to be heard.
I'm not saying there's no problem, I'm just saying there's possibly a problem - or possibly not.
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Great idea ozpeter on running to the m10
I can do that/this
Mics > tb >
1) m10 > r300
2) dr60d (camera out) > r300
3) dr60d (line out) > m10
All at once, using the exact same cables on each connection
Ill then switch 2 and 3 outs
I didn't try headphone out but line out had the same issue as camera out
Not sure on the high pitch sound. I believe it could be coming from my comp, the mics where inches away from it and it tends to make some weird sounds as its old
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The specs on the Camera out are odd - and not a line level...
Maybe they just pad the line level down to mic level - and the pad blows(ie doesnt work right!)?
Camera Out
Output impedance 200 ohms
Standard output level -50dBV
Maximum output level -30dBV
vs the Line Out
Output impedance 200 ohms
Standard output level -10dBV
Maximum output level +10dBV
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The specs on the Camera out are odd - and not a line level...
Maybe they just pad the line level down to mic level - and the pad blows(ie doesnt work right!)?
Camera Out
Output impedance 200 ohms
Standard output level -50dBV
Maximum output level -30dBV
vs the Line Out
Output impedance 200 ohms
Standard output level -10dBV
Maximum output level +10dBV
yes, it is ment to be knocked down to go direct to a camera
The line out, as expected, was much stronger
Ps the battery cover is junk too
It just barely hooks on and can be removed with the slightest of touch. I highly recommend putting gaff tape over the release/catch
Otherwise I find the build quality to be good
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i just did a ton more home testing andddd
I found out that most of the hiss is from the camcorder itself
I determent this by going out to the m10 as well. The m10 recordings from the dr60d do not have as much hiss
the dr60d is adding a lot more to it especially when going camera out vs line out
I am not sure if the m10 just outputs a better/hotter signal or what but the m10 > camcorder sounds fine when there is any type of noise, on silence you hear hiss but not as bad as going from the dr60d > camcorder
the dr60d is not only adding noise but it does't output a loud enough signal to cover up the noise where the m10 seems to be doing that
here is a sample, you will hear the noise then the m10 will "cover it"
the sample with the dr60d follows and you hear it doesn't "cover" the noise
bottom line for me is that its going back
I have no use for 4 track recording vs my naiant box/m10 combos and the outs do not do anything productive as far as video work goes (at least with my canons).
If I have to synch in post I pref the m10 over the dr60d sound anyway so there is no added value
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i just did a ton more home testing andddd
I found out that most of the hiss is from the camcorder itself
I determent this by going out to the m10 as well. The m10 recordings from the dr60d do not have as much hiss
the dr60d is adding a lot more to it especially when going camera out vs line out
I am not sure if the m10 just outputs a better/hotter signal or what but the m10 > camcorder sounds fine when there is any type of noise, on silence you hear hiss but not as bad as going from the dr60d > camcorder
the dr60d is not only adding noise but it does't output a loud enough signal to cover up the noise where the m10 seems to be doing that
here is a sample, you will hear the noise then the m10 will "cover it"
the sample with the dr60d follows and you hear it doesn't "cover" the noise
bottom line for me is that its going back
I have no use for 4 track recording vs my naiant box/m10 combos and the outs do not do anything productive as far as video work goes (at least with my canons).
If I have to synch in post I pref the m10 over the dr60d sound anyway so there is no added value
I hear a nasty buzz on the M10 sample, but just white noise on the Dr60.
Do your Canon cameras have manual audio level control or are you stuck with auto control ? , some way of overriding auto
level control is essential to get useable results from DSLR camras. That is why double system sound is so popular.
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i just did a ton more home testing andddd
I found out that most of the hiss is from the camcorder itself
I determent this by going out to the m10 as well. The m10 recordings from the dr60d do not have as much hiss
the dr60d is adding a lot more to it especially when going camera out vs line out
I am not sure if the m10 just outputs a better/hotter signal or what but the m10 > camcorder sounds fine when there is any type of noise, on silence you hear hiss but not as bad as going from the dr60d > camcorder
the dr60d is not only adding noise but it does't output a loud enough signal to cover up the noise where the m10 seems to be doing that
here is a sample, you will hear the noise then the m10 will "cover it"
the sample with the dr60d follows and you hear it doesn't "cover" the noise
bottom line for me is that its going back
I have no use for 4 track recording vs my naiant box/m10 combos and the outs do not do anything productive as far as video work goes (at least with my canons).
If I have to synch in post I pref the m10 over the dr60d sound anyway so there is no added value
I hear a nasty buzz on the M10 sample, but just white noise on the Dr60.
Do your Canon cameras have manual audio level control or are you stuck with auto control ? , some way of overriding auto
level control is essential to get useable results from DSLR camras. That is why double system sound is so popular.
they have both
i'll double check the settings
i would love to have made mistake and figure out a reason to keep this box
edit - mic in on manual
mic attenuator on automatic, but doesn't kick in because i adjust the levels to be peaking between -12 and -3
has auto mix too where you can mix the external mix input with the built in mic - thats on off which then only uses the external mic
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Trew Audio posted that some customers reported similar problems with their DSLR cameras using output from the 60d. They later posted that this was solved with later production units. https://www.trewaudio.com/audioflow/tascam-dr-60d-problem-solved/
I don't see that they ever posted which serial nos. reflect early production units.....
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Trew Audio posted that some customers reported similar problems with their DSLR cameras using output from the 60d. They later posted that this was solved with later production units. https://www.trewaudio.com/audioflow/tascam-dr-60d-problem-solved/
I don't see that they ever posted which serial nos. reflect early production units.....
good news
part, well basically all, of the issue was my splitter
i decided to run some more tests based on questions and comments
and this time the m10 version was worse so i started switching cables and everything around and found that the splitter had one out that was bad
there is still some hiss but it goes away/covered up whatever when feed this song sample
canon r300 set on manual level 30, dr60d set on camera out at 7
levels staying around -10 with peaks at -6 (maybe not this exact sample but in general)
this might be a keeper after all for going direct into camcorder, which I am pleased about
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Looking more carefully, the hiss in the sample I posted is because the camera was still set to auto gain. Setting the Tascam 60d camera out to 10 and the camera's manual gain to about 13, I have to listen carefully listen to detect any hiss. The hiss in my camcorder audio sample was due to my own user error.
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Looking more carefully, the hiss in the sample I posted is because the camera was still set to auto gain. Setting the Tascam 60d camera out to 10 and the camera's manual gain to about 13, I have to listen carefully listen to detect any hiss. The hiss in my camcorder audio sample was due to my own user error.
thats good too then
I'm glad there was people interested enough to keep asking me questions and stuff or I wouldn't have figured out my issue
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^^ Glad to hear these issues are being rooted out. Thanks for all the testing you're doing. Very appreciated!
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Just got the DR-60D. I'm at work, so I can't really test it out here. I like the size!
Have you guys tried to remove the silver plastic handle bars? What are these things for aside from looks?! I saw a review online where the person reported that one of the handle bars broke by just normal manipulation in his gear bag. I might try to do some preventative modding to make sure that doesn't happen. I'll report back if it's possible.
I think I may need one.
The 60D is neck-hangable, if that's handy for you, unlike most.
you can also remove the top mount fast and easy with a flat head screwdriver of prob even a coin
That would knock the size down a half inch prob
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OK, the little silver bars come off, just in case you might be paranoid about these things snapping. Then again, I wonder if Tascam can send a replacement. It looks like you can easily replace the silver part out .
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I think the bars are there to enable you to put the thing down on its face (if you want, or by accident) and to provide a strap attachment point if you want to wear it on your chest.
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I think the bars are there to enable you to put the thing down on its face (if you want, or by accident) and to provide a strap attachment point if you want to wear it on your chest.
pretty much
It's for a shoulder strap and to help protect the face if you where to tip it over or something
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I think I need one
I won't be using it feed a video cam, and like the form factor, and could care less about the output to camera.
If I can run 2 ch phnatom and potentially run a second feed in SOB or other set of mics it a nice user friendlily interface, comparable to my DR-680 but more compact, and smaller then my old Fostex FR2LE that I used to stealth with on occasion.
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It's pretty nice. You can take off the handlebars and the top mounting bracket, and it reduces its size a bit. It's becomes about the size of a pack of butter.
I think I need one
I won't be using it feed a video cam, and like the form factor, and could care less about the output to camera.
If I can run 2 ch phnatom and potentially run a second feed in SOB or other set of mics it a nice user friendlily interface, comparable to my DR-680 but more compact, and smaller then my old Fostex FR2LE that I used to stealth with on occasion.
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I think I need one
I won't be using it feed a video cam, and like the form factor, and could care less about the output to camera.
If I can run 2 ch phnatom and potentially run a second feed in SOB or other set of mics it a nice user friendlily interface, comparable to my DR-680 but more compact, and smaller then my old Fostex FR2LE that I used to stealth with on occasion.
its about 1/4 the size of a fr2le overall
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As far as a straight audio recorder, how do people feel about this?
It would kind of sucks that I would only be using a fraction of the features of this device.
But..I have a DR-2D which I love and have considered buying a second one. But since it is discontinued, I am leery.
The DR-40 seems a good option but 4 channel recording is only possible with one of the sources being their internal mics.
Does anyone know if this is the replacement for those two recorders?
Or is there another one coming soon?
I really like the fact that I can go XLR direct and with Phantom power. Will certainly reduce my gig bag.
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I didn't do any true concert recording tests nor did I listen super close to my home tests but I can say that the m10 sounded better overall however the dr-60d was nothing to complain about and it def made nice recordings
It's back on sale at b&h this week too via a code which can be found in te retail thread
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I had the opportunity to record a bunch of kids getting ready for music competition, and found the 60d easy to use laying flat on the battery door. The audio quality was respectable, IMO.
I didn't compare the 60d to the 2d, but I did compare it with the M10 and 680 on piano in a more controlled test. I had the pianist listen to all three recordings later and the pianist's order of preference went: 1) 680; 2)m10 3) 60d. The 680 and the 60d both used line audio cm3s. The m10 used AT853s>BB>M10. I was sort of surprised how well the M10 setup fared in my test to the point that I returned the 60d since the M10 setup worked so well and I already have the M10. If I need more channels, I can use my 680.
With the 60d also offering 2 xlr inputs with phantom power, the 60d looks to me to be something that would appeal to 2d users who want to record a feed off the soundboard and also record with their own mics without having to add external setups for phantom powered mics.
Size wise, if the 2d is about the size of a thick pack of playing cards, the 60d is about the size of a box of bill paying envelopes. I like the layout of the controls on the 60d, and much prefer the rotary gain knobs to the side mounted gain control on the 2d.
2d users will immediately be able to grasp the 60d controls and menu with the 60d overall layout being much improved over the 2d, IMO. The 60d uses a rotary menu selection knob instead of the disc wheel used on the 2d. IMO, the 60d's menu knob is an improvement.
Obviously, the 60d is aimed at providing audio recording to DSLR users and appears well suited to run and gun audio recording on a budget, IMO. The boxy shape of the 60d could lend itself to some DIY case to protect it in travel and maybe hold an external battery, too. The screw in camera mounting plate on top obviously gives an extra place for mounting options besides the 1/4 case thread on the bottom.
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I think I'm gonna take the plunge next week.
Amazon has it for $199
I have a show I plan to tape on the 15th so I'll probably run the DR-60D and the DR-2D to try to get somewhat of a comparison.
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But if B & H has it for $185 with a free copy of Plural Eyes software?
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What is shipping from B&H?
And what is Plural Eyes?
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Free shipping at B & H. Plural Eyes is a software that syncs camera audio with recorder audio. There's a weekly promo code at B & H for this deal. More details in
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=166605.60
If you're going to buy the 60d, this is the best deal I know of.
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I'll second that! Free software, discount, free shipping and no tax.
Although they didn't include Plural Eyes in my shipment, they made it right and are shipping that to me.
Free shipping at B & H. Plural Eyes is a software that syncs camera audio with recorder audio. There's a weekly promo code at B & H for this deal. More details in
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=166605.60
If you're going to buy the 60d, this is the best deal I know of.
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I bit $184.99 from B&H. mine should arrive by 3/13, which I am hoping is the case as I leave for 10 days @ 6pm that day. I am hoping that as usual fed ex delivers a day early .
Now on to making some custom cables for it...
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I'm really tempted to go for this one, right now priced at $199 with Plural Eyes (B&H). I've been very very happy with my M-10 and R-44, for two- and four-channel audio recording, respectively, but this has nice features for use in tandem with a video camera. I think that it would also be useful as an audio recorder by itself, even for someone without any interest in video. For example, the mid-side decoding feature that allows me to monitor the decoded output via headphones. The only real shortcoming that I've heard about is that it drains batteries quickly, but I already have a couple of devices that will power it via USB.
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I'm really tempted to go for this one, right now priced at $199 with Plural Eyes (B&H). I've been very very happy with my M-10 and R-44, for two- and four-channel audio recording, respectively, but this has nice features for use in tandem with a video camera. I think that it would also be useful as an audio recorder by itself, even for someone without any interest in video. For example, the mid-side decoding feature that allows me to monitor the decoded output via headphones. The only real shortcoming that I've heard about is that it drains batteries quickly, but I already have a couple of devices that will power it via USB.
can you link me to USB power you have and like?
Thanks
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I posted this on page 8... if it helps. ;)
http://www.amazon.com/10000mAh-Smartphones-USB-charged-Adapters--Lightning/dp/B009USAJCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392726934&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+1000mah
Works like a charm. I've got one and it powers it perfectly. I don't know for how long but with a full charge, I'm assuming I'd _easily_ get away with a day for P48.
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I posted this on page 8... if it helps. ;)
http://www.amazon.com/10000mAh-Smartphones-USB-charged-Adapters--Lightning/dp/B009USAJCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392726934&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+1000mah
Works like a charm. I've got one and it powers it perfectly. I don't know for how long but with a full charge, I'm assuming I'd _easily_ get away with a day for P48.
i saw that, the anker see like they are the best reviewed followed by ravpower
Rav does get complaints at times of a ith pitch sound which isn't normal
All of them have the reviews of it dying after a few weeks or months but with 4.5 starts out of 3k plus reviews is pretty good imo
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I'm really tempted to go for this one, right now priced at $199 with Plural Eyes (B&H). I've been very very happy with my M-10 and R-44, for two- and four-channel audio recording, respectively, but this has nice features for use in tandem with a video camera. I think that it would also be useful as an audio recorder by itself, even for someone without any interest in video. For example, the mid-side decoding feature that allows me to monitor the decoded output via headphones. The only real shortcoming that I've heard about is that it drains batteries quickly, but I already have a couple of devices that will power it via USB.
can you link me to USB power you have and like?
Thanks
Speaking of USB power. IF I had a converter to work with the 9volt DVD battery would that be something you'd be interested in? I only ask since many of us already own the DVD battery and this has been something I have wanted and been kinda working on for awhile
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Used mine in the field for the first time on Friday night ran 4 channel for Karl Denson. Very pleased with the results...used a set of 2000 mah rechargeables and had one bar left.....wasn't using phantom either it was a 2hour 20 minute set. Ill post them in kickdown and specifics a few days as far as level settings, etc..
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I'm really tempted to go for this one, right now priced at $199 with Plural Eyes (B&H). I've been very very happy with my M-10 and R-44, for two- and four-channel audio recording, respectively, but this has nice features for use in tandem with a video camera. I think that it would also be useful as an audio recorder by itself, even for someone without any interest in video. For example, the mid-side decoding feature that allows me to monitor the decoded output via headphones. The only real shortcoming that I've heard about is that it drains batteries quickly, but I already have a couple of devices that will power it via USB.
can you link me to USB power you have and like?
Thanks
Speaking of USB power. IF I had a converter to work with the 9volt DVD battery would that be something you'd be interested in? I only ask since many of us already own the DVD battery and this has been something I have wanted and been kinda working on for awhile
personally, yes and no
I like DVD batteries and had a vr box made by leegeddy
However since I don't need 9v for anything anymore (in fact sold my batteries) I find it easier to have one 5v USB battery instead of two items
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I hear you especially if all you need is the 5V USB power. For me I have USBPre-2 and other pieces of gear to power at the same time so it would be a convenience. Actually your post makes me think that this is the wrong thread for it, just something that popped into my mind
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I'm wondering if the 60d will be more forgiving of external battery sources than the 680 has been reported to be on TS.
The internal batteries seemed to last in the 60d roughly as long as Tascam indicates on its website, but they sure came out warm to the touch on my unit. Has anybody else noticed this with theirs?
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whoo hoo mine arrived today a day ahead of the scheduled fedex smart post delivery date(usually add one or two days - with smart post).
Good news, as I leave town for 10 days tomorrow.I won't be bringing it or have any time to really check it out. Happy to have one.
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Just grabbed a ravpower 10400mah battery for $25
Should run this for 9 plus hrs
Ill test it out and see for sure
PB07SD02 code for $8 off
http://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-10400mAh-External-Thunderbolt-Incredible/dp/B009V5X1CE/
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I need one of those externals. Really like the unit...i posted my Karl Denson 4 channel in kickdown the shows sound great and unit ran flawlessly...just guzzled batteries even without phantom power on
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whoo hoo mine arrived today a day ahead of the scheduled fedex smart post delivery date(usually add one or two days - with smart post).
Good news, as I leave town for 10 days tomorrow.I won't be bringing it or have any time to really check it out. Happy to have one.
Lucky that happened for you. My DumbPost (tm) shipment was not only a day late when it arrived, they said that nobody was there to receive the package when it's a freakin' company that handles shipments and it was inside business hours!
Gotta love USPS. Ended up submitting a redelivery request stating the same and the package was mysteriously delivered the following day. :facepalm:
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Some of this seems to depend on the local UPS delivery guy. Mine has been great.
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Received mine on Monday.
Picked up the power supply also.
Only a little different interface coming from DR-2D.
And not that much bigger either. Maybe like carrying two of them.
First real run is on Friday night.
Gonna run the the DR-2D as well just in case...
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Got a DR-60D last week and took it out almost immediately to record Cowboy Junkies at City Winery in NYC. Haven't given a critical listen to the results yet, but a casual listen left me with a decent impression of the sound and I'm pretty happy with it. Then again, I had my mics in a nice spot and CW is a wonderful sounding room. Hope to have some time this weekend to mix it down and post it next week. Some initial observations and thoughts...
* Overall feel and build quality:
It's more or less all plastic but it seems to have a fairly solid feel and heft to it. Switches and buttons have a positive click to them, gain pots turn smoothly. Really like that the 1&2 channel inputs are XLR/TRS combo and the XLRs lock, unlike those on the Roland R-26. Even though it's different than most of the recorders we're used to using, I personally like the form factor. Whoever said that it's about the size of a 4-stick/1-pound pack of butter is pretty spot on. And yes, the top camera mount and front-face bars are all removable to reduce size, but those front bars help protect the face of the recorder so I'd be leery to take them off. I'm used to Edirol/Roland recorders which I find very intuitive to use and the DR-60D is not terrifically different, IMO. However, the menu system is a little more extensive than I'm used to, and I question the need for subfolders for some of the menu choices.
* Runtime:
Haven't really tested it thoroughly but can tell you my field results from one night. As obaaron pointed out, this deck seems to chew through power. Had 4 freshly and fully charged Eneloop 2000 mAh AA batteries in the compartment, and a freshly and fully charged 3000 mAh cell phone external battery connected to it. After 2 hours 45 minutes where the DR-60D was on the entire time in 2-channel mode with phantom power on both channels (running Milab VM-44 Links) and either recording or in standby, the external battery was out of juice, the deck had automatically switched to internal power and the meter was down to 2 out of 4 bars. I recently picked up a Tekkeon MP3300 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=166745.0), bought a USB adaptaplug for the cable and it works perfectly. Will test this for runtime at some point and post the results here.
* What I'm not crazy about:
- Gain pots are just a hair too small for my liking and wish they were ridged instead of smooth on the sides for better grip. I also wish they had a bit more resistance or even stepped clicks like the R-44.
- Headphone output is definitely noisy and strictly to be used for monitoring. I wouldn't patch out of it, but I guess that's what the Line Out jack is for.
- Level meter has no reference except for an arrow at the -14 dB point; that's an odd level to mark, too. The tiny lines they have at the dB steps are a bit too small to use effectively. What's nice is there's a single readout in decibels which tells you the overall peak but one for each channel would have been better. Then again, you're limited by the size of the display screen which isn't that large.
* What would be nice:
- A way to stereo link the gain pots on channels 1 and 2 so that they could both be controlled by one pot (a la Sound Devices MixPre-D). I think I read that the gain pots work in the digital realm so maybe this could be accomplished with a firmware update?
- A S/PDIF digital-in (and digi-out, if we're going for broke) would be ideal on this deck.
For $200 and with phantom-powered XLRs, this deck is a keeper in my gear chest unless we find something drastically wrong with it. Really looking forward to testing and recording more shows with this recorder.
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* What I'm not crazy about:
- Gain pots are just a hair too small for my liking and wish they were ridged instead of smooth on the sides for better grip. I also wish they had a bit more resistance or even stepped clicks like the R-44.
- Headphone output is definitely noisy and strictly to be used for monitoring. I wouldn't patch out of it, but I guess that's what the Line Out jack is for.
- Level meter has no reference except for an arrow at the -14 dB point; that's an odd level to mark, too. The tiny lines they have at the dB steps are a bit too small to use effectively. What's nice is there's a single readout in decibels which tells you the overall peak but one for each channel would have been better. Then again, you're limited by the size of the display screen which isn't that large.
Does everyone prefer the pots over the a percentage-style input?
I find I like the percentage better so I can document where I was on a particular night\venue.
I think the pots will make this difficult.
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My first thought is I'm not sure it matters since the volume from one group to the next can vary so much depending on who is running sound. However, this did matter in being able to identify the best gain settings to use on the 2d.
I think the front bars merit more thought and development. It just seems like they are needed to protect the recorder, yet they appear vulnerable to being broken. I think it would be worth considering buying some polycarbonate and fabricating a face place to go over the controls and removing those bars.
For example, Peavey makes a simple polycarbonate cover for its mixers. http://www.amazon.com/Peavey-Mixer-Face-Plate-Cover/dp/B003GS50F8
I also think some thought is needed towards mounting an external battery pack to make sure there's enough battery power on hand for taping. I think one might as well plan on running an external battery pack and figure out how best to add it to the package.
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Does anyone know which chip the DR-60D is using at the input?
As I am very much considering this unit for external audio on video recordings, some design touches are important. Another option would be the DR-680, which has more channels and seems to be well regarded.
Even if I couldn't find anywhere, my guess is the DR-60D limiter is placed like on the DR-680, after the ADC, which is not too good. The limiter should be on the first stage, linked to the mic preamp.
Has anyone tested what happens to the DR-60 sound when it peaks and the limiter should protect?
Both recorders seem to have a weak link on the battery power, and I see some of you are using external iPod batteries with the DR-60D.
Is there a Service Manual available on-line?
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Got my 10400mah external battery
Ran it out of te box with lights stating it had between 50-75% charge
Ran out of card space at 6hr 15 min at four channel 48v/pip on
Battery lights showed 0-25% charge left
No further testing by me as it will clearly go much longer then ill ever need
Edit and you can NOT use a card larger then 32gb
It will not format and gives you and instant error
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good to know..wish I would have grabbed the battery before the discount code expired! Still grabbing one anyhow it's needed!
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Got my 10400mah external battery
What battery is that? A ravpower?
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The link to the battery was posted just a few posts back. The opamps were discussed early in the thread on page 2. http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=161501.msg2030627#msg2030627 As I recall, a Tascam rep indicated they were different than the ones used in the DR 680.
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If the chip used in the DR-60 is the 4580 with some transistors up front, then it's the same as the DR-680.
What Tascam seems to claim is that they used different transistors up front on the DR-60 than on the DR-680, but the chip seems to be the 4580 too.
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Here is the post on that: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=161501.msg2030639#msg2030639
From my listening, the 60d is not a cut down DR680. It is its own distinctive unit.
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Someone's claiming it's a cut down?
Even in spite of what Tascam claims about the change of transistors, I don't think they would sound better or worst because of that. It's quite likely they are as you say: distinctive.
Most reviews I'm reading are praising the preamps, not complaining.
But I still say the DR-680 might be a better choice for video & film work, due to the number of channels available.
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yes, my battery is a ravpower
in my limited home testing i can not hear much difference between my m10 and dr60d going line in
so little that i sold my m10 and pe3 for $235 which covered my dr60d and battery purchase and upgraded me to 4 channels
i did decide to keep my littlebox so if I don't care for the mic pres I still have that and can run line in.
Hope to run mic in on thurs for rrfb
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Million dollar question: has anybody here managed to calculate unity gain on this puppy?
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Million dollar question: has anybody here managed to calculate unity gain on this puppy?
well what I am wondering is if the different gain levels, low/mid/high add gain or just give you more on the dial.
For example, the max gain at low is 11db, mid is 36db, and high is 52db with the knob at full (5:30). So with the knob at lowest (7:30) is the gain zero for all three and the knob just has a higher gain at smaller turn increments OR is the lowest setting at low 0, mid (for discussion) say 10db and high say 20db.
I am leaning toward the first, all zero and bigger amounts of gain at smaller increments because the difference between low > mid > high isn't the same
I guess I'll have to find time to send white noise at all three to see, if I ever care enough to do so
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Today I got acquainted with Fostex recorder I didn't know about: the Fostex DC-R302.
Has anyone considered it and/or compared it with the Tascam DR-60?
The Fostex is slightly wider than the Tascam, but it's thinner. Weight about the same.
The Tascam has four channels, but just two XLR balanced inputs. The Fostex has two channels, but three XLR mic inputs.
As I'm thinking of using TC on my video shootings, the extra channels on the Tascam would be handy though.
Fostex price is higher too, particularly now with B&H offer.
A mic preamp comparison would be interesting.
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I took my DR-60D out for its first show last Friday.
Kung Fu at the Spot in Providence.
Otava MK-319s (OFTR) > DR-60D
Was lucky enough to get AC power so I cant speak to any battery life on the unit.
Really pleased with the results. "Seemed" to take a hotter signal than the DR-2D but I don't have the actuals to back up that statement. Just based on the levels I saw and the way it sounded when done.
I did receive a SDB feed and ran that on channels 3/4. That seemed to come in particularly hot and at one point I had the gain pot within a hair of being all the way down and it was still level with channels 1/2. I expected the levels to be much lower than that since the gain was almost all the way down.
The one thing I really need to figure out is when listening via headphones how to switch between channels.
Other than that, I am really pleased with it. Great to eliminate the Phantom Power boxes and extra XLR cables from my bag and reduce my footprint.
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Tested this battery at home with DR-60D with phantom on: http://www.amazon.com/Jackery-High-capacity-Aluminum-Dual-Port-Ultra-fast/dp/B00AANQLRI
I stopped it at 11 hours and there was one bar lit on the battery pack.
So I ordered one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Jackery-High-capacity-Aluminum-Dual-Port-Ultra-fast/dp/B00EA1P8OI
I will be running this rig (and a backup) tonight and tomorrow night. I will report back on Sunday.
I am using this card with no issues: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/992490-REG/sandisk_sdsdxs_032g_a46_32gb_sdhc_extreme_class.html
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I need one of these batteries. Used mine again for Galactic and love it!
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first real outing with my dr-60d last night for robert randolph
here are some mp3
1st - 3rd = akg ck63 > dr-60d
4th = akg ck61 > tb > m10
first - dr-60d ch 1/2
second - dr-60d with -6db "dual st mode"
third - -6db dual st mode amplified to match original
fourth - m10 version that was .8db different from dr-60d original
samples removed
full show up http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=167322.0
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Tested this battery at home with DR-60D with phantom on: http://www.amazon.com/Jackery-High-capacity-Aluminum-Dual-Port-Ultra-fast/dp/B00AANQLRI
I stopped it at 11 hours and there was one bar lit on the battery pack.
So I ordered one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Jackery-High-capacity-Aluminum-Dual-Port-Ultra-fast/dp/B00EA1P8OI
I will be running this rig (and a backup) tonight and tomorrow night. I will report back on Sunday.
I am using this card with no issues: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/992490-REG/sandisk_sdsdxs_032g_a46_32gb_sdhc_extreme_class.html
Forgive the dumb question but is it seamless when it goes from internal battery to external battery pack?
Or do most people only use the external pack?
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Tested this battery at home with DR-60D with phantom on: http://www.amazon.com/Jackery-High-capacity-Aluminum-Dual-Port-Ultra-fast/dp/B00AANQLRI
I stopped it at 11 hours and there was one bar lit on the battery pack.
So I ordered one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Jackery-High-capacity-Aluminum-Dual-Port-Ultra-fast/dp/B00EA1P8OI
I will be running this rig (and a backup) tonight and tomorrow night. I will report back on Sunday.
I am using this card with no issues: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/992490-REG/sandisk_sdsdxs_032g_a46_32gb_sdhc_extreme_class.html
Forgive the dumb question but is it seamless when it goes from internal battery to external battery pack?
Or do most people only use the external pack?
i read it switches see less but never tried it
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Can the 60D charge internal batteries?
If it can they it should be seamless, if not just trying.
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Can the 60D charge internal batteries?
If it can they it should be seamless, if not just trying.
no
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I did receive a SDB feed and ran that on channels 3/4. That seemed to come in particularly hot and at one point I had the gain pot within a hair of being all the way down and it was still level with channels 1/2. I expected the levels to be much lower than that since the gain was almost all the way down.
yep..the 3/4 channels do run hot! I had to turn my tinybox to low (+4) rather than mid (+18) like I typically do from the spot I record from at my local venue on Wed.
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I did receive a SDB feed and ran that on channels 3/4. That seemed to come in particularly hot and at one point I had the gain pot within a hair of being all the way down and it was still level with channels 1/2. I expected the levels to be much lower than that since the gain was almost all the way down.
yep..the 3/4 channels do run hot! I had to turn my tinybox to low (+4) rather than mid (+18) like I typically do from the spot I record from at my local venue on Wed.
what level of gain are you guys running the channels at? 1 and 2 have low/mid/high while 3/4 are low/high
I had my 1/2 on mid and the knob as low as it could go and it matched my tb on mid almost exactly
I noticed the knob doesn't seem t give much gain either, it seems like if you have to turn it a lot before it even shows anything on the meter
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Ive had the gain on low for all channels and on 3/4 even the pot was all the way down and it was overloading with my tinybox at +18. Had to turn it low (+4) and kept 3/4 on low gain but turned the pot on the front to 12 oclock or so and it was peaking around -8db.
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first real outing with my dr-60d last night for robert randolph
full show up http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=167322.0
sounds nice, I am listening to the akg63>dr60d, I almost made it this show, really wanted to go, life got in the way...
Glad you got a nice recording.
On a side note. I sent mine to Busman, he reduced his price to 175 and this is what he is doing:
"DR60 modifications to 4 analog preamps-Includes op amp and capacitor upgrades in the input path.$175.00"
I should have it back this week. I'll take it out to Terrapin Flyer May 8th at the Westcott.
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Any idea if Busman thinks this mod, whatever it is, brings the 60d up to the level of his modded 680s?
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I'm not sure i would mod anything
It seems pretty legit vs the tb > m10 combo
If he thinks he can make it better then by all means it will,be sweet
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Aaron, not sure if you're still looking for a battery, but this is a pretty good deal.
http://dealnews.com/RAVPower-12-000-m-Ah-Power-Bank-for-28-free-shipping/1011780.html
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GDfan, I wonder if there would be any advantage to adding a different connection for a plug in power tip instead of that usb power connector. Maybe that is something you can ask Busman in addition to asking Busmans' perspective on the other upgrades?
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Any idea if Busman thinks this mod, whatever it is, brings the 60d up to the level of his modded 680s?
Yes, from he indicated he is using the same parts on this as his modification for the 680.
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Aaron, not sure if you're still looking for a battery, but this is a pretty good deal.
http://dealnews.com/RAVPower-12-000-m-Ah-Power-Bank-for-28-free-shipping/1011780.html (http://dealnews.com/RAVPower-12-000-m-Ah-Power-Bank-for-28-free-shipping/1011780.html)
thanks Ted I do need to get one...did you grab one for yours? I like mine a lot...its my new go-to for 4 channel for sure
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thanks Ted I do need to get one...did you grab one for yours? I like mine a lot...its my new go-to for 4 channel for sure
I think it was a steal for the price (US$185) plus the free copy of Plural Eyes. I haven't had a chance to try mine out (hoping to next month) but it'll be nice to have the option of either 2-channel (M10) or 4-channel (60D) or 6-channel (with clock resync) using both decks. Really was a no-brainer for the price and any decent USB battery is a god-send with this device. Definitely money well-spent but I'm wondering about what Busman has to say about the "improvements" with the mods because it's still pretty quiet for what it is.
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Just ordered the RAV battery pack! Will be running the unit again this Thursday for Lettuce at the Belly Up 4 channel. Cant believe I was able to unload my H4N for $180 and grab this for $5 more same day....what an upgrade!
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Good job! I bought an Anker 15000 a couple months ago to run my preamp and recorder from the dual USB sockets. My old Tekkeons are becoming unreliable -- I don't know if you remember at the NMAS show, I was having some problems with the batteries that night.
I think price for capacity, the RAV works out to be a better deal. It should power the 60D for as long as you need!
My first use of the 60D in the field might be on Wed -- my daughter and her friend are performing a duet at our elementary school! It's just a 2 min song, but it's the first time she's performing a whole song singing and playing the guitar in front of people! I need to not screw this up, so I might just go with my trusted 661.
Just ordered the RAV battery pack! Will be running the unit again this Thursday for Lettuce at the Belly Up 4 channel. Cant believe I was able to unload my H4N for $180 and grab this for $5 more same day....what an upgrade!
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My old Tekkeons are becoming unreliable -- I don't know if you remember at the NMAS show, I was having some problems with the batteries that night.
How did the Tekkeons become unreliable?
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I think just age. A few of them don't seem like they hold a charge. They will power to about halfway, then the battery shuts off. I'm afraid to use them on anything that doesn't have internal batteries to backup. I have a couple of the 3750s that are doing OK though.
My old Tekkeons are becoming unreliable -- I don't know if you remember at the NMAS show, I was having some problems with the batteries that night.
How did the Tekkeons become unreliable?
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Looks like there are quite a few sets on LMA recorded with the DR-60D: https://archive.org/search.php?query=%22Tascam%20DR60-D%22%20AND%20collection%3Aetree
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I ran a test to see how long the Eneloop 1900 mAh batteries last with an ME-66 drawing phantom power from the Tascam DR-60D. I get a respectable 3 hours 45 mins roughly. However, the problem is with the battery indicator. For more than half the time, I'm running on 1 (out of 3) on the battery scale. From the time this 1 changes to a blinking battery sign to it saying BATTERY LOW (at which point recording stops) is barely a couple of seconds. (I had a video camera aimed at the Tascam display to record all this.) So the battery indicator is essentially useless. My battery type is set to Ni-MH.
Anyone else see this issue?
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I used alkalines for my first recording and switched to Ni-mh for the second. Both times the battery meter went to one bar really quickly. I changed batteries at set break each time. I switched to an external USB power supply for my last recording. I will only use AAs as a backup from now on.
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I ran a test to see how long the Eneloop 1900 mAh batteries last with an ME-66 drawing phantom power from the Tascam DR-60D. I get a respectable 3 hours 45 mins roughly. However, the problem is with the battery indicator. For more than half the time, I'm running on 1 (out of 3) on the battery scale. From the time this 1 changes to a blinking battery sign to it saying BATTERY LOW (at which point recording stops) is barely a couple of seconds. (I had a video camera aimed at the Tascam display to record all this.) So the battery indicator is essentially useless. My battery type is set to Ni-MH.
Anyone else see this issue?
exactly what the manual days for 16/44
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exactly what the manual days for 16/44
days -> says ?
16/44 -> ?
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Lightbulb goes off! 16 bits 44.1 kHz? If so, my issue was how useful the battery indicator is, not how long the battery lasts. Not that it matters, but I was using 24/48.
In any case, I called Tascam and they said this is what to expect from NiMH. Or else use "high quality alkalines"
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We can't forget alkalines are 1.5v each, and NimHs are 1.2v each, or multiple of them.
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Well that's why they have a menu setting for us to tell the recorder which we are using. The Tascam DR-60D seems much worse than my Zoom H4n in this regard. I would think it's a simple matter of tweaking a few numbers in the software. Or maybe it's not so simple if different NiMH behave differently, at different points of time in their life.
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I am trying to figure out what size pelican case this will fit into. I cannot find the dimensions in inches anywhere. Can someone tell me the dimensions and if you already know, what size Pelican case it will fit into?
Thanks,
Glenn
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I am trying to figure out what size pelican case this will fit into. I cannot find the dimensions in inches anywhere. Can someone tell me the dimensions and if you already know, what size Pelican case it will fit into?
Thanks,
Glenn
5.24x3.67x3.07
Don't forget there is a firmware update too guys
http://tascam.com/product/dr-60d/downloads/
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I ran a test to see how long the Eneloop 1900 mAh batteries last with an ME-66 drawing phantom power from the Tascam DR-60D. I get a respectable 3 hours 45 mins roughly. However, the problem is with the battery indicator. For more than half the time, I'm running on 1 (out of 3) on the battery scale. From the time this 1 changes to a blinking battery sign to it saying BATTERY LOW (at which point recording stops) is barely a couple of seconds. (I had a video camera aimed at the Tascam display to record all this.) So the battery indicator is essentially useless. My battery type is set to Ni-MH.
Anyone else see this issue?
Yes. And I wrote an explanation why this is so: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=138990.msg1801890#msg1801890
Greetings,
Rainer
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I would say that the Tascam firmware can still be tweaked to be more helpful. From the point that the BATTERY LOW indicator came on (at which point it saves the file and stops recording), the recorder stayed on for 24 mins. Some of those 24 mins could be given to the user to voluntarily stop recording and change batteries. Of course, it may not be 24 mins with a battery of a different brand or age, so I guess no matter what Tascam did, someone would be unhappy. But it's better to give the user more control than less.
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>>5.24x3.67x3.07
Thanks,
Glenn
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That update seems chiefly to add a function required by the EU to force standby when running on external power. Consider whether that is something you want to do.
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Yes. And I wrote an explanation why this is so: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=138990.msg1801890#msg1801890
Thanks Rainer. I'd never read that e-mail before but it makes perfect sense to me. I've always wondered why my 2000mAh Eneloops showed 1/2 battery within an hour or two of use but always worked well beyond that. For the 60D, I'll still use a USB battery as my primary and the 4xAA's as "backups" to that.
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That update seems chiefly to add a function required by the EU to force standby when running on external power. Consider whether that is something you want to do.
No. They extended the "Auto power off" to the external power input. And the best: you can switch the "Auto power off" off ;D
BTW this was added in update V1.10. There is also an update V1.20
Greetings,
Rainer
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BTW this was added in update V1.10. There is also an update V1.20
You are of course quite correct, now that I look a bit harder.
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Has the "hum" problem happening with some video cameras been discussed here?
My information was that it was an issue on one batch of units, but that Tascam had solved it. Is that so?
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Has the "hum" problem happening with some video cameras been discussed here?
My information was that it was an issue on one batch of units, but that Tascam had solved it. Is that so?
Yes
I had huge issues and another member had it too
tuned out on mine to be a cable > camcorder issue and I have "fixed" it, at least in home tests. I have not had a chance to run live yet at a show or anything
long story short, if your camera has adjustable "gain" set it very low
My camera was perfect sound wise even with a bad cable running from the m10 and/or little box but as soon as I had it hooked to the dr-60d i had issues and had to drop the level on my camera from 75 to 40 (along with get a new cable)
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One thing I am still unclear on is how to switch between channels on LineOut.
I didn't see anything in the manual for it and when I have used headphones I cant tell if it is Ch. 1/2 or Ch 3/4 or a Mix.
Does anyone how to do this or if it is even possible?
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One thing I am still unclear on is how to switch between channels on LineOut.
I didn't see anything in the manual for it and when I have used headphones I cant tell if it is Ch. 1/2 or Ch 3/4 or a Mix.
Does anyone how to do this or if it is even possible?
I have never done it but check out page 40/41 http://www.tascam.eu/en/docs/DR-60D_Manual.pdf
this, along with a few others things I read made me wonder if you can change them WHILE recording
i would assume you can because if you had 4 channels running you might need or want to hear 1, 2, 3/4 in different configs
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One thing I am still unclear on is how to switch between channels on LineOut.
I didn't see anything in the manual for it and when I have used headphones I cant tell if it is Ch. 1/2 or Ch 3/4 or a Mix.
Does anyone how to do this or if it is even possible?
I have never done it but check out page 40/41 http://www.tascam.eu/en/docs/DR-60D_Manual.pdf
this, along with a few others things I read made me wonder if you can change them WHILE recording
i would assume you can because if you had 4 channels running you might need or want to hear 1, 2, 3/4 in different configs
Ok, so I did she this but thought the Monitoring they were referring to was the meters on the display.
Reading this again, I think they are one and the same in this context.
If you say you want to see Ch 1/2 that what you will hear in headphones.
Since I have it set to Mix because I want to see meters for Ch 1/2 and Ch 3/4, I am getting Mix in the headphones too.
Makes sense but peak meters can be deceiving so it would be nice to switch between them on-the-fly.
The manual does seem to state that you can switch on the fly;
Selecting the monitored signal
1.
When the Home Screen is open and the unit is stopped, paused,
in recording standby or recording, press the
MONITOR SELECT
button to open a pop-up menu where you can select which
signal to monitor.
Will try to test at home or on an opening band at my next outing.
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Yes
I had huge issues and another member had it too
tuned out on mine to be a cable > camcorder issue and I have "fixed" it, at least in home tests. I have not had a chance to run live yet at a show or anything
long story short, if your camera has adjustable "gain" set it very low
My camera was perfect sound wise even with a bad cable running from the m10 and/or little box but as soon as I had it hooked to the dr-60d i had issues and had to drop the level on my camera from 75 to 40 (along with get a new cable)
[/quote]
From what I have read it looked like a ground loop, that came up when DR-60 and camera shared the same battery, or when the DR-60 was screwed to the camera.
In situations different from that, like when just using a cable and non-shared ground or metallic parts, there was no hum.
AFAIK you wouldn't solve the problem with camera gain setting.
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Has anyone tried the Energizer XP 18000A battery on the D60?
http://www.laptopmag.com/review/accessories/energizer-xp18000a.aspx
The output options includes an USB port. The other ports would allow me to power a Blackmagic camera and an external monitor at the same time.
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Probably not what I'm looking for, but this package looks ideal for powering the DR-60:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/ZINEN-Large-capacity-10000mAh-mobile-power-bank-bateria-externa/1517441136.html?s=p
This one too looks very smart, and it's sun rechargeable:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/30000mAH-Solar-Charger-2-Port-External-Battery-Pack-For-Cellphone-iPhone-4-4s-5-5S-5C/1672400635.html
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Any USB battery should work fine. The one I have is made by ravpower and is 10400 or something like that
I powered my dr-60d out of the box with four ch, 48v for over 6hrs
The way my meter works is like this...
Four lights = 75-100%
Three lights =50-75
Two = 25-50
One =0-25
I went from three lights to one
I wouldn't order from the link above either but that's just me, I don't like ordering from china when I can get it for a few bucks more direct from us
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I wouldn't order from the link above either but that's just me, I don't like ordering from china when I can get it for a few bucks more direct from us
Why wouldn't you? I do not live in the USA, so China is infinitely cheaper and easier to get things than from the USA.
Ali Express is quite reliable. Some months ago, I bought some stuff from BH and some from Ali, delivered in Colorado.
They got there almost at the same time.
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I wouldn't order from the link above either but that's just me, I don't like ordering from china when I can get it for a few bucks more direct from us
Why wouldn't you? I do not live in the USA, so China is infinitely cheaper and easier to get things than from the USA.
Ali Express is quite reliable. Some months ago, I bought some stuff from BH and some from Ali, delivered in Colorado.
They got there almost at the same time.
well if you do not live in the us then that's a different story but for me I got basically the same battery from amazon for $4 more and in 2 days
The battery from ali/china would have taken 40, info taken direct from alis site
Edit, also 90% of what I have read online says Ali is a great place to get ripped off,mostly by china based sellers
If you can give me different info please do because my job is looking for a mascot costume and they only place we have found them is on ali
Example http://resources.alibaba.com/topic/801198638/IS_AliExpress_A_SCAM_.htm?va=0&page=9
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The info I have is from people that bought stuff from them, all in the film or video business, sent to Brazil. They always delivered.
But you are right, they deliver using different sellers, and some of them may not be good.
If what you need can only be provided by Ali, then you should go down that way. The are becoming an important source, so at least your money back should be guaranteed.
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Today I was having a look at the Tascam DR-40, and I wondered what were the technical differences when compared with the DR-60.
Has anyone actually compared them and can tell what are the pros and cons of each?
My main concern is with the preamp quality.
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The main difference for me was the DR-60D has the ability to record from two external sources at once (like the discontinued DR-2D) while the DR-40 can record from two sources as long as one of the is their Internal Mics
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That's not good. I would want to add a separate independent source on tracks 3-4, like a time-code track or something.
The DR-40 has no separate level pots either.
Batteries seem to last longer though.
Don't know about the preamps audio quality. I had heard the DR100 had excellent preamps.
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BTW, I didn't know about the Fetheads add-ons, which I found pretty amazing on situations where you need more gain:
http://www.zenproaudio.com/triton-audio-fethead.aspx
Having a pair doesn't add up too much to a DR-60 rig.
I just wonder what microphones might need it, I mean from condenser types.
The next question is if Busman's mod, which seems to cost about the same as two Fetheads, lowers noise as these preamps do. I wonder if anyone tried both on the DR60.
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I believe the Busman mod for the Dr60d is supposed to put its preamps on the same level as his mod for the DR680. The pricing for this mod should be on his website.
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I highly recommend doing some recordings before getting a mod
I ran ck61 > tb > m10 and ck63 > dr60d and they sound very Similar to me
If bm can do a mod to sound better thats great but I don't feel it's needed. Keep in mind the 680 has different preamps hen the 60d too
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I believe the Busman mod for the Dr60d is supposed to put its preamps on the same level as his mod for the DR680. The pricing for this mod should be on his website.
Not as of 1:53pm Eastern on April 8th.
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I highly recommend doing some recordings before getting a mod
I ran ck61 > tb > m10 and ck63 > dr60d and they sound very Similar to me
If bm can do a mod to sound better thats great but I don't feel it's needed. Keep in mind the 680 has different preamps hen the 60d too
The 680's preamp was "pretty quiet" as well. Again, I think it's all perception. I haven't had a chance to run my 60D yet (likely later this month or next) but I'm sure it's more than sufficient.
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But did the Fetheads bring any improvement to the DR-60?
I imagine that with certain recording situations, low level, and certain condenser microphones (Neumann or Schoeps) there might be. But I wonder.
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I highly recommend doing some recordings before getting a mod
I ran ck61 > tb > m10 and ck63 > dr60d and they sound very Similar to me
If bm can do a mod to sound better thats great but I don't feel it's needed. Keep in mind the 680 has different preamps hen the 60d too
The 680's preamp was "pretty quiet" as well. Again, I think it's all perception. I haven't had a chance to run my 60D yet (likely later this month or next) but I'm sure it's more than sufficient.
How do you stand it having your 60d sit in the box this long?
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Any of you is currently using you DR-60D for double-system audio with video?
The more the merrier.
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I highly recommend doing some recordings before getting a mod
I ran ck61 > tb > m10 and ck63 > dr60d and they sound very Similar to me
If bm can do a mod to sound better thats great but I don't feel it's needed. Keep in mind the 680 has different preamps hen the 60d too
The 680's preamp was "pretty quiet" as well. Again, I think it's all perception. I haven't had a chance to run my 60D yet (likely later this month or next) but I'm sure it's more than sufficient.
How do you stand it having your 60d sit in the box this long?
1) As stated in my signature (and mentioned in the open forum), I've got *a lot* of bigger things to deal with right now. :(
2) I've played with another 60D before getting a new one from B&H with Plural Eyes. :)
3) I haven't had my AKG Actives/PFA's in my possession for a while as Jon was doing so research into how to make them quieter for me so there's been no point in taking it out (and I've had no shows to record). A lot of stuff is starting to ramp up and most of those shows where the 60D will see use are festival shows and are month's out. For now, the M10 will likely see more use.
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But did the Fetheads bring any improvement to the DR-60?
I imagine that with certain recording situations, low level, and certain condenser microphones (Neumann or Schoeps) there might be. But I wonder.
I believe you'll find that using something like the FEThead eliminates phantom power downstream, so a conventional phantom powered condenser will not work with the FEThead.
http://tritonaudio.com/index.php?Itemid=33
Protects the microphone
Some ribbon microphones do not tolerate phantom power, FetHead's circuit uses Phantom power but shields it from its input (and the microphone's output), as a result it offers effective protection to the microphone.
Fran
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I believe you'll find that using something like the FEThead eliminates phantom power downstream, so a conventional phantom powered condenser will not work with the FEThead.
http://tritonaudio.com/index.php?Itemid=33
There is also a "FetHead Phantom" version for condensers. I wonder if it affects mic performance, as it is presumably siphoning off some of the juice from the deck?
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But did the Fetheads bring any improvement to the DR-60?
I imagine that with certain recording situations, low level, and certain condenser microphones (Neumann or Schoeps) there might be. But I wonder.
I believe you'll find that using something like the FEThead eliminates phantom power downstream, so a conventional phantom powered condenser will not work with the FEThead.
http://tritonaudio.com/index.php?Itemid=33
If you look there you will see there are two versions: one feeds phantom power and the other does not.
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^^ Honest question: What exactly is the advantage of running a FetHead with a condenser microphone? Unless I'm missing something in the description, the FetHead for dynamic mics just adds gain which can be useful for low-output dynamics and ribbon mics. Does it only add gain for condenser mics, too?
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Well, it all depends on the noise (of mic, Fethead,, mic preamp), so if the objective is to lower noise because the mic has low noise, then it would be a good thing.
It would all depend on the condenser mic quality.
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FWIW, I ran a loaner V2 (thanks Hypnocracy!) in front of my DR60-D for the first four tapes I did. I didn't quite like any of them. And I preferred my CA-14>9200 source on a couple of them. I ran a back-up rig each time until Friday night. I decided to leave the V2 out of the chain and run the VM-44s straight into the DR60-D. I think I made my best recording ever. I know a lot of factors play into this and each venue was different. But I will be running without an external pre for a while, I think. I used phantom power with a USB battery and still had three bars (full) after 2h43m of recording.
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I wonder how a Milab VM-44 would behave in film location recording.
My work workhorse is a Sennheiser MKH 416, even if most people are using Schoeps or Neumann nowadays.
But they are quite expensive and I don't work that much to justify the investment.
As I will be soon buying a DR60, I wonder how my mics will work with it.
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What do you mean by film location?
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What do you mean by film location?
Location shooting is the contrary of studio shooting.
On an actual location you have less ways to control things than you have on a studio.
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Far from scientific, but I can tell you from doing side-by-side recordings with my Milab VM-44's against acidjack's Schoeps MK41's and the similarities between the two when listening to the playback are much more apparent than any differences. In other words, the Milabs easily compete with the "big boys". My 2 cents and YMMV, etc...
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Hi, I primarily audio record my own band, ergo unattended. In my last 2 shows I have slate marks on my recording. 1 or 2
Im blown away someone is actually touching my deck while im playing. I figured leaving the feature enabled wouldn't
hurt. Ill disable the feature now. Wondering if anyone has seen a slate mark w/o that button being pushed??
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Hi, I primarily audio record my own band, ergo unattended. In my last 2 shows I have slate marks on my recording. 1 or 2
Im blown away someone is actually touching my deck while im playing. I figured leaving the feature enabled wouldn't
hurt. Ill disable the feature now. Wondering if anyone has seen a slate mark w/o that button being pushed??
mines disabled for safety but no I have not had an issue
I would do some home test where you are the only one there just to make sure it's not a faulty unit
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In the brief time I had a 60d, I didn't have any surprise slates. I had to use some effort to get the slate to activate. Shouldn't happen on its own at all.
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I've made a few recordings now with mics straight into the 60D. Here's one:
https://archive.org/details/gsbg2014-05-07.VM-44links.flac24
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Anyone know what this noise is?
I ran 4channels on this night, 1/2 from mics and 3/4 from SBD. The file attached is from the SBD feed but the diginoise is on all sources.
Could it be a write-error on the card?
Or could it be an error with the DR-60D itself.
I haven't listened to the entire recording yet to see if it happens while they are playing.
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bump
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Anyone know what this noise is?
I ran 4channels on this night, 1/2 from mics and 3/4 from SBD. The file attached is from the SBD feed but the diginoise is on all sources.
Could it be a write-error on the card?
Or could it be an error with the DR-60D itself.
I haven't listened to the entire recording yet to see if it happens while they are playing.
are you sure it wasn't something broadcast through the pa?
Was it in the rest of the recording too or just that spot
Sounded different then noise I have heard in the past
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Here is my first recording with DR-60D.
https://archive.org/details/TerrapinFlyer2014-05-08.Neumann184
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Here are a couple recording made On-Stage with DPA 4023 > Sonosax SX-M2 > DR-60d....
https://archive.org/details/erb2014-05-23.dpa4023.sxm2.flac
https://archive.org/details/otisgrove2014-05-23.dpa4023.sxm2.flac
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Listened to both, but the Otis Grove recording is a hit so far as I'm concerned.
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are you sure it wasn't something broadcast through the pa?
Was it in the rest of the recording too or just that spot
Sounded different then noise I have heard in the past
[/quote]
I found another source and it is on theirs also.
Much relief.
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Just picked up a second DR-60D and another stand to make it easier to cover two stages at a festival. Now I need more big boy mics. I feel like such a slut.
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Has anyone ran this unit mics> xlr > 1/4" with phantom on? Doesnt work on mine isnt it able to provide 48v to the XLR and 1/4"? Rig works fine on my 680 1/4" jacks?
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Has anyone ran this unit mics> xlr > 1/4" with phantom on? Doesnt work on mine isnt it able to provide 48v to the XLR and 1/4"? Rig works fine on my 680 1/4" jacks?
if you are running TRS 1/4" then it should work, as noted it does work on the 680. I haven't tried it though.
Do you have the proper TRS 1/4 to XLR cables or are you using an adapter in there?
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Same cable female xlr>1/4" TRS. Cabel works fine into the 680 1/4" jacks with phantom on. I tested the xlr ins on the 60d and the phantom works just not with the TRS inputs?
Can anyone confirm they have suxcessfully used the 1/4" inputs with 48v phantom on?
Edit: i looked in the Features section in the manual and sure enough it makes no mention of the 1/4" jacks providing 48v as it does say for the XLR's....
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I know the Anker 10000mAh pack is popular and I ordered one to go along with my 60D that's arriving today. It won't be arriving in time for a show tomorrow night, and was wondering what results I can expect from this one I already have?
http://www.amazon.com/Mophie-Powerstation-4000mAh-External-BlackBerry/dp/B005OW4BFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406726794&sr=8-1&keywords=mophie
4000mAh rechargeable power capacity
Special high out battery that allows for fast charging
Capable of switching between 500mAh, 1A, and 2.1A charge
Ability to charge virtually any USB device in the world.
Not to up on what the mAh will translate to actual consumption from the 60D.... any idea? I also have a set of 1400mAh energizer nimh rechargeables. Just trying to see if I'd be safe with this battery pack & the rechargeables installed for 4channel, 24/48 for about 2h15m. Assuming that should be more than enough, but any insight would be great.
Thanks for any advice.
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^^ The first time I ran my 60D it was under similar circumstances to you but not quite exact: was using a fully charged 3000 mAh external battery and had a set of newly charged Eneloop batteries (~1800-2000 mAh, I believe) in the deck. Running two channels with 48v phantom on at 24/48, the deck was powered up and recording for over 3 hours straight. By the end of that time the external battery was done, the deck automatically switched over to internal batteries and the meter was at two bars out of four. I wouldn't call that a definitive test, but I'm guessing you should be OK, dank.
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thanks. will report my results from Eric Johnson tomorrow night.
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I know the Anker 10000mAh pack is popular and I ordered one to go along with my 60D that's arriving today. It won't be arriving in time for a show tomorrow night, and was wondering what results I can expect from this one I already have?
http://www.amazon.com/Mophie-Powerstation-4000mAh-External-BlackBerry/dp/B005OW4BFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406726794&sr=8-1&keywords=mophie
4000mAh rechargeable power capacity
Special high out battery that allows for fast charging
Capable of switching between 500mAh, 1A, and 2.1A charge
Ability to charge virtually any USB device in the world.
Not to up on what the mAh will translate to actual consumption from the 60D.... any idea? I also have a set of 1400mAh energizer nimh rechargeables. Just trying to see if I'd be safe with this battery pack & the rechargeables installed for 4channel, 24/48 for about 2h15m. Assuming that should be more than enough, but any insight would be great.
Thanks for any advice.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=166875.0
You def want to use 1a
I recorded over 6hrs of four channel, two 48v with my 10,000 and still had juice
Based on the formula I should get 9hrs approx for your 4000, you should get 3.7hrs so I would say 3
Have aa installed for backup
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$149 at B&H today, in case you miss the other thread:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/929347-REG/tascam_dr_60d_4_ch_track_linear_pcm.html
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:o Holy crappola - what timing! Thanks for posting this here. Order placed.......thanks davepeck, you're my new best friend!
:)
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Powering question....ive got an external battery pack with 2 USB outs to power my dr60....one is 1A the other is 2A.....cant seem to find in the owners manual what the correct amperage(?) Should be going to the unit anyone know?
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Powering question....ive got an external battery pack with 2 USB outs to power my dr60....one is 1A the other is 2A.....cant seem to find in the owners manual what the correct amperage(?) Should be going to the unit anyone know?
It doesn't list it in the manual http://tascam.com/content/downloads/products/799/e_dr-60d_om_va.pdf but the Tascam AC adapter shows 1.5A
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81b3%2BaQ9z2L._SX355_.jpg)
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It doesn't list it in the manual http://tascam.com/content/downloads/products/799/e_dr-60d_om_va.pdf but the Tascam AC adapter shows 1.5A
I was using the USB-out of one of those Naztech rebranded batteries to power my 60D until I realized that the USB jack only outputs 200mA, not that I noticed any problems, but given that the AC adapter supplied 1.5A I bought another battery that has 1.5A/2.1A outputs.
I know the 60D has a low voltage message but wonder if insufficient amperage would trigger it as well.
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Great deal
1a is all you need based on experience and talking to Jon from naiant
As for run times, I use a 10k mah battery it stopped recording 4ch at 6.5 hrs ONLY because my card filled up. That was enough for me so I never we t down to dead
Based on talking with Jon I should expect around 9
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Yeah ive been running mine on 1A with NO issues but want to make sure it wont damage/fail. Sounds like im good to go. Thanks for the replies!
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How is everyone doing a SBD patch? Lines 1 & 2 or 3/4? I'm guessing the best way for me would be to run my SD Pre Tape Out to 3/4 on the 60D and leave the XLR inputs open for the SBD patch.
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How is everyone doing a SBD patch? Lines 1 & 2 or 3/4? I'm guessing the best way for me would be to run my SD Pre Tape Out to 3/4 on the 60D and leave the XLR inputs open for the SBD patch.
I would go 3/4 if I was just running sbd but it sounds like you will be running mics too and in that case I would do what you suggest.
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How is everyone doing a SBD patch? Lines 1 & 2 or 3/4? I'm guessing the best way for me would be to run my SD Pre Tape Out to 3/4 on the 60D and leave the XLR inputs open for the SBD patch.
I run my mics directly from the DR-60D so I use 3/4 for SBD. I have an RCA to mini cable and adapters for XLRm, XLRf, and 1/4" .
If I run a second DR-60D, I use XLR for the SBD if they have it. It's nice to run the dual recording feature and not have to watch levels so close.
I haven't run my third DR-60D yet ;D
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How is everyone doing a SBD patch? Lines 1 & 2 or 3/4? I'm guessing the best way for me would be to run my SD Pre Tape Out to 3/4 on the 60D and leave the XLR inputs open for the SBD patch.
I would go 3/4 if I was just running sbd but it sounds like you will be running mics too and in that case I would do what you suggest.
Yes, mics into 3/4 and SBD into 1/2. At least this way I can adjust the levels from the SBD feed on the 60D and do level adjust on the pre>3/4.
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Anyone use micro SD cards (with an adapter) in the DR-60D. My other recorder is a Sony M-10 and I have micro SD cards (16 GB and 32 GB) so would prefer to use what I have.
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Anyone use micro SD cards (with an adapter) in the DR-60D. My other recorder is a Sony M-10 and I have micro SD cards (16 GB and 32 GB) so would prefer to use what I have.
I've used them and never had a problem. Although I mostly used normal sd cards of the normal size. But the adapters as long as it's not a super cheap one seem to be pretty well made.
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I am trying to figure out what size pelican case this will fit into. I cannot find the dimensions in inches anywhere. Can someone tell me the dimensions and if you already know, what size Pelican case it will fit into?
Thanks,
Glenn
5.24x3.67x3.07
What are folks using as protection for the recorder in their bag? Anything? The closest Pelican is the 1150 (9.12" x 7.56" x 4.37") and that would take up half my bag or more.
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I am trying to figure out what size pelican case this will fit into. I cannot find the dimensions in inches anywhere. Can someone tell me the dimensions and if you already know, what size Pelican case it will fit into?
Thanks,
Glenn
5.24x3.67x3.07
What are folks using as protection for the recorder in their bag? Anything? The closest Pelican is the 1150 (9.12" x 7.56" x 4.37") and that would take up half my bag or more.
im not using anything
I have mine sitting on top of an external battery and have a soft crown royal bag I put on the top to cover the screen and such
All inside mu bag nova 4
How is everyone doing a SBD patch? Lines 1 & 2 or 3/4? I'm guessing the best way for me would be to run my SD Pre Tape Out to 3/4 on the 60D and leave the XLR inputs open for the SBD patch.
I would go 3/4 if I was just running sbd but it sounds like you will be running mics too and in that case I would do what you suggest.
Yes, mics into 3/4 and SBD into 1/2. At least this way I can adjust the levels from the SBD feed on the 60D and do level adjust on the pre>3/4.
exactly what I am thinking
Best way to adjust if need be IMO
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What are folks using as protection for the recorder in their bag? Anything? The closest Pelican is the 1150 (9.12" x 7.56" x 4.37") and that would take up half my bag or more.
im not using anything
I have mine sitting on top of an external battery and have a soft crown royal bag I put on the top to cover the screen and such
All inside mu bag nova 4
That's also exactly what I put my -60D in when it's in my gearbag. Too funny! ;D
If you have a military surplus store nearby, you could probably find a nylon canteen pouch or something like it that would work.
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Mentioned before that someone else had the plastic ears on the side break when transporting the 60d in a bag. I was sort of thinking about taking them off, and finding a way of padding the case. Not going to spend as much on a padded case as the recorder, though. I have a piece of a foam pad you put on the ground under a sleeping bag that might could be repurposed into a protective cover. Not sure about the bright blue color........
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I was disappointed the DR-60D didn't come with a felt bag like the DR-2D did.
Found this on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-CROWN-ROYAL-LITER-PURPLE-FELT-BAGS-MANY-USES-/271591747359?_trksid=p2054897.l5675
Group purchase?
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I was disappointed the DR-60D didn't come with a felt bag like the DR-2D did.
Time to find a crown royal bag....
Tons of Crown Royal bags on ebay.
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If you need a Crown Royal bag, let me know. I have a bunch of different sizes and colors. (purple, gold, black, brown, and I think maybe a red one)
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Or ask your favorite bartender for one. When I was working in bars, people rarely ever wanted one of the Crown bags after I opened a new bottle. I saved so many that I started tossing them out. Then lost or threw away most of them after moving a few times.
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That's funny. Large Crown Royal bag is exactly what I use ;D
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Specs say up the 32gb supported. Has anyone tried a 64gb card for shits and giggles?
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Specs say up the 32gb supported. Has anyone tried a 64gb card for shits and giggles?
100% does not work
Gives you an error message. Can't recall exactly what it was bit something about can't format or no card.
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Just as a point of reference, in my testing, a 32GB card gave me the following while recording 4 channels:
On A/C power:
7 Pairs of 2GB files
1Pair of 1GB files
16 hours total
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So I bit on a DR-60D when B&H had their $150 deal. Got it our this past week for the first time and gotta say I like the design of the device. 2 big issues/questions.
1 - The level knobs are easy to bump and offer very little resistance to turning so it could be very easy to mess up levels on accident.
2 - Battery life on internal AAs was terrible. I was running MBHOs>DR60D with 48v Phantom and was down to 1 bar left after less than a 2 hour show starting with brand new Energizer alkalines. Had me sweating it a bit. Sounds like most people here are running USB based external batts. Just want to confirm my experience with the AAs is normal and I didn't miss something obvious that caused my high power consumption. Looks like I'll have to run the external in the future.
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1. I could see that opinion. Also, the two xlr channels can't be linked.
2. Someone else described battery consumption as like a fat kid eating donuts. Your experience with battery life is like mine.
Now if they come out with a WIFI controllable version, I'm going to be disappointed at buying one for $150 like you did.
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I jumped on the B&H deal also and knew going in the 60-D was power hungry, so I also bought the A/C adapter. Fortunately I have an outlet to plug into near my setup at my local venue. An external battery is on my wish list so I can free myself from the cord.
If you engage the "Hold" switch "all buttons are inoperative when hold is ON", per Tascam. I'm pretty sure I tested that on my last outing and the levels did not change with the Hold switch on while I turned the level knobs.
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So I bit on a DR-60D when B&H had their $150 deal. Got it our this past week for the first time and gotta say I like the design of the device. 2 big issues/questions.
1 - The level knobs are easy to bump and offer very little resistance to turning so it could be very easy to mess up levels on accident.
2 - Battery life on internal AAs was terrible. I was running MBHOs>DR60D with 48v Phantom and was down to 1 bar left after less than a 2 hour show starting with brand new Energizer alkalines. Had me sweating it a bit. Sounds like most people here are running USB based external batts. Just want to confirm my experience with the AAs is normal and I didn't miss something obvious that caused my high power consumption. Looks like I'll have to run the external in the future.
I noticed those same things when I had my first outing with the DR-60D. > http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=161501.msg2084094#msg2084094 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=161501.msg2084094#msg2084094)
But aside from a few quirks it's a great, and inexpensive, little deck.
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So I bit on a DR-60D when B&H had their $150 deal. Got it our this past week for the first time and gotta say I like the design of the device. 2 big issues/questions.
1 - The level knobs are easy to bump and offer very little resistance to turning so it could be very easy to mess up levels on accident.
2 - Battery life on internal AAs was terrible. I was running MBHOs>DR60D with 48v Phantom and was down to 1 bar left after less than a 2 hour show starting with brand new Energizer alkalines. Had me sweating it a bit. Sounds like most people here are running USB based external batts. Just want to confirm my experience with the AAs is normal and I didn't miss something obvious that caused my high power consumption. Looks like I'll have to run the external in the future.
I noticed those same things when I had my first outing with the DR-60D. > http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=161501.msg2084094#msg2084094 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=161501.msg2084094#msg2084094)
But aside from a few quirks it's a great, and inexpensive, little deck.
Agreed, one heck of a deck for $150. Just was kind of blown away by the battery consumption.
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Specs say up the 32gb supported. Has anyone tried a 64gb card for shits and giggles?
100% does not work
Gives you an error message. Can't recall exactly what it was bit something about can't format or no card.
32 vs 64 is the dividing point between SDHC and SDXC so it's a common point of demarcation for max capacity.
Fran
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Making my maiden voyage with the DR-60D this week (Tuesday - Drive-By Truckers), so re-reading the thread and playing with the recorder today. Soaking it all in. I have a few questions, but I'll see if they've been answered already before posting them.
I pulled the recorder out today and my wife wanted to know what it was. hehehe. ;D Of course, I had already told her about it and had her give it to me for my birthday instead of buying me a gift. And she accuses *me* of not listening to *her*.
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Okay, so here is my first question... I live stream the audio from time to time and expect to do so with the Truckers on Tuesday. I've output the audio many different ways in the past - direct via USB out of my UA-5 when I had one and most recently, line out from my M-10 into the mic in on the laptop. Which output on the DR-60D do you think I should use to output a signal to my laptop. I'm guessing Line Out.
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Okay, so here is my first question... I live stream the audio from time to time and expect to do so with the Truckers on Tuesday. I've output the audio many different ways in the past - direct via USB out of my UA-5 when I had one and most recently, line out from my M-10 into the mic in on the laptop. Which output on the DR-60D do you think I should use to output a signal to my laptop. I'm guessing Line Out.
i would go line out maybe camera, not headphone
I can't recall the difference but camera out is not as "loud" at 10 as line is
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Sorry if I overlooked this subject somewhere else on the boards, but with the release of the DR-60D mkII, does anyone know what differences there are between it and the original -60D? Off the bat, the only readily noticeable ones are the buttons/color scheme and touting that the mkII supports "high-output microphones", whatever that means compared to the mkI.
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Sorry if I overlooked this subject somewhere else on the boards, but with the release of the DR-60D mkII, does anyone know what differences there are between it and the original -60D? Off the bat, the only readily noticeable ones are the buttons/color scheme and touting that the mkII supports "high-output microphones", whatever that means compared to the mkI.
MSRP
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Sorry if I overlooked this subject somewhere else on the boards, but with the release of the DR-60D mkII, does anyone know what differences there are between it and the original -60D? Off the bat, the only readily noticeable ones are the buttons/color scheme and touting that the mkII supports "high-output microphones", whatever that means compared to the mkI.
couple of posts here that tell the differences http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=170048.0
Red handles
Higher gain
Price
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^^^^^^
I believe those are high definition red handles. ;) ;D
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So I picked up Jamos' open box DR60d from the YS
First impressions...
Smaller than I thought it would be especially the screen. I would like some reference marks on the meters but it has the numerical peak readout so not so bad. The status indicators for the features I don't use (limiter,lowcut,etc) take up room I would rather have for the meters.
Form factor is going to take some getting used to for running in a bag. I'm used to either a larger upright oriented deck (Marantz 670, R4) or a mini deck (Marantz 620, DR2D).
Gobbles the rechargeable AAs running my ADK TLs which are a little power hungry. I have a 5 volt external just need a cable for it. Hopefully I can get through a whole show with that and AAs for backup.
Guess I'll get another USB battery like that Anker people have linked to since the one I have is a little long in the tooth.
Haven't had a chance to run it for a show yet but in a home test the preamps sound decent...no hiss even at max gain.
I like the menus. Different than the DR2D I used to run but still fairly easy to navigate.
Pretty impressed with the feature set for the price.
So nothing new to report :)
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Folks, please help me make sure the polarity is correct coming out of this adaptaplug tip connected to a Tekkeon MP3300 battery pack. The thing that bothers me is that the flat on the black connector and the flat on the white connector are reversed to each other even though the + marks line up.
The + side of the white tip and the + tip of the charger cable are on the same side. Checking with a volt meter, it appears that I have 5v positive voltage from the connector on the side of the side of the tip marked with a sharpie "+" shown in the lower left hand part of the photo. Ground ("G") is marked on the opposite side of the usb tip in the photo as well.
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^^ Yes, that is the correct alignment. I have the same mini-USB tip and Tekkeon MP3300, and I have run my DR-60D just like that several times for hours at a clip. No issues. As long as the "+" marks line up on the tip and the cable, you're OK.
BTW, nice score on the mini-USB tip. They've been out of production for awhile but do pop up regularly on eBay.
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Thank you.
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I'm looking for a powering solution. I've been using my Tekkeon MP3300 and it works okay, but I don't trust it as it doesn't hold a charge great. If I charge just before going out, it will be fine, but if it sites for a couple days, it will lose some charge and i'm not sure how much is lost.
The Anker and the Jackery solutions look good and the price is pretty good. Anyone using these and can give some insight on which one to order?
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I'm looking for a powering solution. I've been using my Tekkeon MP3300 and it works okay, but I don't trust it as it doesn't hold a charge great. If I charge just before going out, it will be fine, but if it sites for a couple days, it will lose some charge and i'm not sure how much is lost.
The Anker and the Jackery solutions look good and the price is pretty good. Anyone using these and can give some insight on which one to order?
I have a rav power I believe it's called from amazon
Works great
Ankers have good reviews too
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There is a deal on that Ravpower battery at newegg flash right now, but it's white. I ordered one because I'm still scared of the multipower settings on the Tekkeon I bought, and I think the smaller size of the Rav will be easier to mount to my tascam some way or the other. I'm still thinking through a custom mount for it.
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The RavPower is also $20.99 at Amazon.
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By the way, I have like a 10k mah and I run my 60-d for over six hrs. The meter dropped approx 3/4
Based on math, I should get around nine hrs on a change. They do take forever to charge though
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I don't use a DR-60d but use Jackery Giant 12000mah USB battery with my SD USBpre2 and have been very happy. It takes a while to charge I'll admit but I while I haven't timed it, I have gotten well north of 9 hours when I pushed it at a festival.
I believe I paid about $50 or so at Amazon for it 6 months ago.
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I took my DR60D out for the first time on Wednesday and I'm quite impressed. Ran Milab VM44-links straight in using the phantom power on the deck and they sound really nice. I used a Anker Astro E3 10,000 battery with great results. It was a 2 hour show and it still shows full power. I also picked up a 1 foot right angle mini Usb to right angle USB cable for power. I still can't believe you can get all of these features on a deck for $149. How things have changed.
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This is what I have in black http://www.neweggflash.com/Product/0SC-000Y-00052?icid=WP_0_10302014&nm_mc=AFC-C8JunctionFlash&cm_mmc=AFC-C8JunctionFlash-_-na-_-na-_-na&utm_source=afc-Slickdeals+LLC&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_campaign=na&AID=11445855&PID=4485850&SID=0298367eb8554ffdace8cc89ecfce5a9
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I don't use a DR-60d but use Jackery Giant 12000mah USB battery with my SD USBpre2 and have been very happy. It takes a while to charge I'll admit but I while I haven't timed it, I have gotten well north of 9 hours when I pushed it at a festival.
I believe I paid about $50 or so at Amazon for it 6 months ago.
I second this. Can run my DR-60D for 11 hours on a full charge. Its like $40 on Amazon currently
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Third on the 12000mah Jackery. I run Milab Link VM-44 direct from DR-60D and got over 12 hours on a test run.
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sorry to ask this here if has already been answered...but does this unit clock sync the two XLR inputs with the 1/8" input for easily creating a matrix in post? I ask because I would likely record 4 separate channels as separate recordings...but would like the ability to easily sync them if so desired.
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^^ If you're recording all 4 channels at the same time (two XLR + two on the 1/8" stereo input) then yes, they are all clock synced. However, unless there's a setting I'm missing, the -60D will record the XLRs and the 1/8" input as stereo pairs. There's no setting to have the deck record as four separate mono tracks like the R-44 and other 4-channel (or more) recorders.
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^^ If you're recording all 4 channels at the same time (two XLR + two on the 1/8" stereo input) then yes, they are all clock synced. However, unless there's a setting I'm missing, the -60D will record the XLRs and the 1/8" input as stereo pairs. There's no setting to have the deck record as four separate mono tracks like the R-44 and other 4-channel (or more) recorders.
So they will be clock synced but I can still use the separate 2 channel recordings independently If I want?
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^^ Of course, unless I'm misunderstanding you. If you're using all the inputs on the recorder, the two XLRs and the 1/8" stereo input, the deck will record the XLRs as a stereo pair in its own file and the 1/8" as a stereo pair in its own file. It won't record them as one big 4-channel file. At that point and in theory, you could even split them into 4 mono tracks with the right DAW, the -60D just doesn't have it as an option.
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I haven't tried splitting 4 tracks in Audacity, but it will split a stereo track into two tracks pretty easily.
Back to the external battery for a minute, but I really like the size of the Ravpower 10400mah pack for the 60d. It's just about the size of the back of the 60d. Not sure I'd velcro anything to the battery door on the 60d, but there's probably a way of mounting this battery pack by screwing a mounting plate to the bottom of the 60d. Plus, the Ravpower has a fixed voltage output so presumably there's less chance of accidentally frying the 60d.
By comparison, the Tekkeon is just longer and overall bigger making it tougher to figure out how to mount.
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what model ravpower is that and how long will it run the unit if using 48phantom? I just picked one of these units up and I know I need to grab an external battery but am torn which battery to purchase. Are there other suggestions besides the ravpower? Am i correct that it powers the unit via miniUSB cable?
Thanks for answering all my questions...a bit late to the party.
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I was going to pick one of these up for my Busmsn box but it could work to mount a USB battery on top too:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/969843-REG/tether_tools_rs314_rock_solid_1_4_20_mighty.html
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The 60d will record in stereo pairs or 4 mono
Page 50 http://www.tascam.eu/en/docs/DR-60D_Manual.pdf
The 10400 rav will power for approx 8.5hr using 1a out and 60d at max power, 5.4v - math calculations
I got 6.5 hrs and dropped three bars - real world test
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I left mine charging all night. Apparently, it takes a while to fully charge. It's Ravpower model RP-PB07, 10400mah. The tips that come with it are too small. You need to use the mini-B usb connector that came with the 60d.
For mounting, I suppose I could put the battery in the bag that came with the battery and let it hang off a superclamp for the time being.
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Would I be able to run a pair of DPA 4061s into the stereo channels 3/4 off the plug in power, or would they still require me to power them though my Tinybox and turn off the plug in power? I'm assuming still through the Tinybox.
Have you all noticed the digital stepping of the gain pots and is it distracting or hardly noticeable? Is it something that can be done away with with a firmware upgrade?
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Would I be able to run a pair of DPA 4061s into the stereo channels 3/4 off the plug in power, or would they still require me to power them though my Tinybox and turn off the plug in power? I'm assuming still through the Tinybox.
Have you all noticed the digital stepping of the gain pots and is it distracting or hardly noticeable? Is it something that can be done away with with a firmware upgrade?
1/2 has the option of line, 24v,48v
3/4 has line and pip
The digital stepping is only noticeable if there isn't a signal or a low db signal
I have never once noticed it in real life concert recording or even home recording test
Even with no signal, it isn't anywhere near as bad as some reviews make it out to be and I did a ton or research on it before buying because I was nervous
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Would I be able to run a pair of DPA 4061s into the stereo channels 3/4 off the plug in power, or would they still require me to power them though my Tinybox and turn off the plug in power? I'm assuming still through the Tinybox.
Have you all noticed the digital stepping of the gain pots and is it distracting or hardly noticeable? Is it something that can be done away with with a firmware upgrade?
1/2 has the option of line, 24v,48v
3/4 has line and pip
The digital stepping is only noticeable if there isn't a signal or a low db signal
I have never once noticed it in real life concert recording or even home recording test
Even with no signal, it isn't anywhere near as bad as some reviews make it out to be and I did a ton or research on it before buying because I was nervous
Thanks for all your answers.
Regarding plugging in the DPA4061s into channel 3/4 1/8"...does anyone have any idea how much plug in power the unit provides? I'm trying to figure out if I will still need to utilize my Tinybox in front of those.
Ordered a unit yesterday, should be here Tuesday.
Thanks
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Can someone elaborate on the digital stepping?
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Can someone elaborate on the digital stepping?
The unit does not have analog potentiometers so it utilizes digital pots. Seems like a non issue for our purposes according to the above experience. One upside of digital pots is you will never get the "scratchy" pots like happens to analog units.
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Would I be able to run a pair of DPA 4061s into the stereo channels 3/4 off the plug in power, or would they still require me to power them though my Tinybox and turn off the plug in power? I'm assuming still through the Tinybox.
I read elsewhere on TS that too much voltage will fry 4061s and would stick with what I knew works until I was certain there's no issue using plugin power from the 60d with 4061s. I'm pushed for time to find the thread on this, but this is something I want to nail down since I also have a set of 4061s.
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If you are recording test tones you might hear the stepping. Fortunately, bands who perform test tones are fairly rare (and their fans are even rarer) so this is unlikely to be a problem in real terms.
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Someone here willing to make some pictures of the unite for a size comparison to, let's say a Sony M10, Edirol R44?
EDIT: Found, halfway back here is some: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=161501.120 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=161501.120)
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Some size comparison photos posted at posts 122 and 124 (M10). I don't think we've had a comparison photo to an R44 yet.
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Front view of the R-44, DR-60D and R-05:
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g412/JFCB/R-44DR-60DR-05225.jpg)
Side view of the R-44, DR-60D and R-05:
(http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g412/JFCB/R-44DR-60DR-05325.jpg)
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Im really liking this sucka!!! It would be perfect for my vms and littlebox setups. I can run vms>XLR>60D on channels 1/2, which allows me to tweak the gain on BOTH channels, since the vms has a 20db gain setting and a 40db gain setting, and its for BOTH channels, so I have zero control over left/right channels separately. Major coolness factor to me lol!!! And I can run the littlebox>mini on channels 3/4, since the LB has variable gain and I can tweak the levels on the LB ;) And then since the LB has [2] separate outputs[RCA and 1/8"], I can run one of my m10s as a backup, and barely take up any space ;) That way all 4 channels are already synced up, and I would only have to track a set ONCE for both sources. Just down to 1 cue sheet per set would be amazing. It gets very redundant when I have to make a separate cue sheet in cdwave for both of my m10 sources :P And since at festies I record at 2 stages, I will just run my [2] m10s obviously. So I would be using this the other 9 months of the year whenever I run BOTH of my rigs. Just absolutely perfect for my needs!!! And for $200 its a no brainer.
I hate to be "that guy" that barges into the thread on the LAST page and asks all the questions that have been asked a million times already, but can someone PLEASE tell me how long the 60D will run/last on the 4xAA internal batteries running LINE-IN on all 4 channels ??? I promise I will read this whole thread eventually, but I just want a quick answer to help me decide if I really want it or not ;) And if I have this thing down, I would want to run in the 4 channel mode, right? That way all the tracks are their own mono file, right?
Thanks in advance fellas 8)
Bean
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Damn, this thing is TINY!!! I just looked up the specs at B+H, and its as small as my Droid Ultra Motorola smartphone! So badass. Now I'm really interested ;D 8) I just need a decent size bag, maybe a new Mountainsmith Tour TLS, that Jon Merin talked to me about yesterday. I need a vms02ib, kcy littlebox, 60d, an m10 for backup and both pairs of mics in one bag, and the MS Tour TLS might fit the bill perfectly :) Now I need yinz opinion on how good the ADC is ??? 8) Is it the same or better than the m10s ADC? Because if it is, then I'm all over it this winter 8) Now I guess the only thing left to do is search for some Schoeps>preamp>60D tapes to listen to, if there are any!!!
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Bean
I never ran line in but mic in, no phantom, the manual says 4.5 hrs for two channel
I dumped one of my m10 for the dr-60d and haven't missed it but I haven't done any huge scientific test/listening either just so side by side
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Bean
I never ran line in but mic in, no phantom, the manual says 4.5 hrs for two channel
I dumped one of my m10 for the dr-60d and haven't missed it but I haven't done any huge scientific test/listening either just so side by side
Well, I can't really get rid of an m10, since I do about 3-4 LONG festies every summer, and i would just rather run both of my m10s at two different stages. But I would definitely get a LOT of use out of this the other 9 months when I mainly record indoors and at ONE stage lol :) But the thought has crossed my mind ;) Sometimes you have to make sacrifices to get what you want, like me selling a littlebox and KCY cable to get my vms02ib preamp ;D It's just REALLY hard to beat the m10s battery life AND quality of its ADC, for a slightly bigger deck, that doesn't last anywhere in the same planet when it comes to recording runtimes :) BUT, since this sucker is ONLY $200[which is a drop in the bucket compared to a lot of our rigs expense-wise, so I really don't have to get rid of an m10 to get this thankfully! And I haven't had a SBD patch but MAYBE twice in the last 6+ years, so I would only be running both of my Schoeps rigs into it!
And willndmb, thank you kindly for the info I was looking for ;)
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The DR-60D is the Deal Zone deal of the day on B & H today. $129.99 Price expires at midnight.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/find/dealZone.jsp
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The DR-60D is the Deal Zone deal of the day on B & H today. $129.99 Price expires at midnight.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/find/dealZone.jsp
Damn - trying to raise funds for the DR-70D...but I could rock this today.
Must resist...want red handles! :P
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The DR-60D is the Deal Zone deal of the day on B & H today. $129.99 Price expires at midnight.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/find/dealZone.jsp
thanks ridiculous
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Part two http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=170743.0