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Author Topic: Bi Amping speakers  (Read 13999 times)

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mfrench

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Re: Bi Amping speakers
« Reply #30 on: July 13, 2012, 09:42:23 AM »
Take out any post bridging that might be on your speakers.  You do not want any connection bridging made between the posts that were there prior to this effort.

keep your phasing correct:
L+ to L+ /// R+ to R+ 
L- to L- /// R- to R-
Do this at all four points of both the amp and speaker, when connecting speaker cable leads.

Do you have cable?
If not, for the experiment, you can use a heavy gauge of stranded lamp cord, like 10 or 12gauge wire (smaller numbers equal larger diameter), for your runs.  Home Depot or Lowes sell wire from bulk spools. So you can get a minimum amount without having to break the bank on full spools (for an experiment; copper ain't cheap anymore).  As Lee (gutbucket) suggested, you can also use battery terminal lead wire or welding wire.

Offline ts

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Re: Bi Amping speakers
« Reply #31 on: July 13, 2012, 09:50:55 AM »
Thanks Mike. Can I ask you to take a quick look at the 1290 owners manual. As these are setup for biamping and I am unsure what to do with biwiring. ie: post bridging.

http://sportsbil.com/ads/l-1290_and_l-1290_ownersmanual.pdf



Take out any post bridging that might be on your speakers.  You do not want any connection bridging made between the posts that were there prior to this effort.

keep your phasing correct:
L+ to L+ /// R+ to R+ 
L- to L- /// R- to R-
Do this at all four points of both the amp and speaker, when connecting speaker cable leads.

Do you have cable?
If not, for the experiment, you can use a heavy gauge of stranded lamp cord, like 10 or 12gauge wire (smaller numbers equal larger diameter), for your runs.  Home Depot or Lowes sell wire from bulk spools. So you can get a minimum amount without having to break the bank on full spools (for an experiment; copper ain't cheap anymore).  As Lee (gutbucket) suggested, you can also use battery terminal lead wire or welding wire.

Offline Gutbucket

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Re: Bi Amping speakers
« Reply #32 on: July 13, 2012, 10:28:33 AM »
You can run as many pairs of wires as makes you happy between the amp and speakers.  You can use a single set of binding posts on each speaker and amp and cram as many wires in there as will fit.  Or if it's more convenient, you can use both sets of binding posts on the speakers as long as you don't throw the switch on the back to bi-amp mode (which internally disconnects the two sets of posts) and you can use both sets of binding posts on the amp if you switch on both the A and B speaker outputs on the amp.

Using the extra posts on either the speaker or amp side mostly makes for convenience in attaching the extra wire pairs, electrically it's the same using a single set of posts at either end.  Using two sets of wires per speaker is pretty much the same as using a single wire with conductors that are twice as large. 

The most important thing is to make sure the polarity of the wires is correct.  Like Mike says + connected to + and - connected to -, regardless of how many coat hangers you use.

Take out any post bridging that might be on your speakers.  You do not want any connection bridging made between the posts that were there prior to this effort.

Not for these speakers.  If using both sets of posts on the speakers and not using an external crossover, you must keep the speaker input pairs pairs bridged.  Otherwise you won't hurt the speakers, but you will get full range sound out of the woofer with no crossover to it.  There are no removable external bridging conections between posts like on many speakers with two sets of posts, the connection is made internally with the bi-amp switch.  Make sure the bi-amp switch is not set to the bi-amp position.  Leave it in the normal position and you can use both sets of posts if you like.
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mfrench

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Re: Bi Amping speakers
« Reply #33 on: July 13, 2012, 10:38:26 AM »
Yeah, i now realize that. I hadn't seen the manual, and was speaking in generalities.
Also:  The suggestion of the speaker cable gauge - the manual suggests 16g as the maximum, without having to install terminations to make larger gauge fit.
Follow Lees advice.

Offline Gutbucket

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Re: Bi Amping speakers
« Reply #34 on: July 13, 2012, 10:42:09 AM »
Take out any post bridging that might be on your speakers.  You do not want any connection bridging made between the posts that were there prior to this effort.

To clarify, this is what makes these speakers somewhat unusual.  For typical speakers with two sets of normally bridged posts, you could remove the bridging and use two seperate amps without an external crossover.  That would be what is typically called "passive biamping" - all the crossover filtering would be done in the speaker, even though the woofer and the midrange / tweeter would be driven by seperate amps.  But you can't do that on these without opening up the speakers and re-wiring things internally because doing so would bypass the crossover for the woofer.

The way these speakers are wired makes it easier to actively bi-amp with an external crossover, but more difficult to passively bi amp witout one.

You can use heavier than 16guage wires that if you want, but as Mike mentions, you'll need to either install terminations that will fit the posts, or simply trim down the end diameter of the bare conductors until they'll fit.
« Last Edit: July 13, 2012, 10:44:05 AM by Gutbucket »
musical volition > vibrations > voltages > numeric values > voltages > vibrations> virtual teleportation time-machine experience
Better recording made easy - >>Improved PAS table<< | Made excellent- >>click here to download the Oddball Microphone Technique illustrated PDF booklet<< (note: This is a 1st draft, now several years old and in need of revision!  Stay tuned)

Offline ts

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Re: Bi Amping speakers
« Reply #35 on: July 13, 2012, 11:27:04 AM »
Thanks Mike and gotbucket. I will try biwiring first since I don't own a crossover yet.

Offline scb

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Re: Bi Amping speakers
« Reply #36 on: July 16, 2012, 09:06:10 AM »
i've been using 4 channels of a 7 channel amp on my fronts for 8 years now.  separate for lows and highs for each l and r

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Re: Bi Amping speakers
« Reply #37 on: July 16, 2012, 09:53:46 AM »
That's how mine rolls for 2 channel.  I realized that I could set the multichannel amp to automatically switch to bi-amp mode for 2 channel stereo using two seperate internal 100W amp modules per side.  Sounds pretty much the same to me as setting it to simply bridge the two amp modules instead of seperately bi-amping for the same total wattage (the alternate 2 channel only option), yet the extra wires are already run to the L/R speakers so why not.

In multichannel mode it switches back to using a single 100W module per speaker.  Cranking it up to near live levels, the additional bass headroom provided from doubling the modules (either bridged or bi-amped) is welcome, yet at normal listening levels all three options sound pretty much identical.  The audiophile-minded will laugh at me for using this amp and generally claim I need 300-500Watts on each side to drive my 3-way floorstanders properly, but I think Chris is correct that 100WPC is typically enough for speakers with a sensitivity of 90db at 1 watt at 1 meter.
musical volition > vibrations > voltages > numeric values > voltages > vibrations> virtual teleportation time-machine experience
Better recording made easy - >>Improved PAS table<< | Made excellent- >>click here to download the Oddball Microphone Technique illustrated PDF booklet<< (note: This is a 1st draft, now several years old and in need of revision!  Stay tuned)

 

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