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Author Topic: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?  (Read 17596 times)

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Offline flipp

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #30 on: April 05, 2010, 03:09:42 PM »
Using an AD20 would effectively limit you to 16 bits. While it ouputs 20bits it is basically truncated to 16. See the Zefiro or Denecke website for a more detailed explanation. Also realize the the AD20 does not supply phantom power. So you'll need to add a phantom supply as well as the AD20 if you decide to go that route. The Denecke PS2 is a good match for the AD20 but there are also other phantom supplies on the market.

Are you planning on using the laptop's built in sound or are you thinking of using a different soundcard like a VX Pocket?

Offline Todd R

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #31 on: April 05, 2010, 06:05:11 PM »
I just saw that fullcompass has got the Audio-Technica AT4051's for sale for $299 ea.  At $600 a pair, this would be a great set of mics for your budget.  They are very under-used in our circles, but they sound great and they also use interchangable capsules, so when you get more money available you can add in omni caps or hyper caps.

Also, one more strong vote for a littlebox, though it probably is a better choice if you were planning on a dedicated recorder, not a laptop.
Mics: Microtech Gefell m20/m21 (nbob/pfa actives), Line Audio CM3, Church CA-11 cards
Preamp:  none <sniff>
Recorders:  Sound Devices MixPre-6, Sony PCM-M10, Zoom H4nPro

Offline Nick's Picks

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #32 on: April 05, 2010, 07:04:36 PM »
that is a good price on those mics...

Offline charles

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #33 on: April 06, 2010, 10:31:27 AM »
Ok. You guys have convinced me to scratch the laptop. On further thought, considering everything that's been said on this thread, I'm thinking it really isn't worth it. I'm going to take all the great suggestions you guys have given me and come up with a few possible rig scenarios. I'll bring those scenarios back here and see what everyone thinks looks like the best option.
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Offline Jhurlbs81

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #34 on: April 06, 2010, 10:44:08 AM »
If you do need a bit bucket I have been using the Microtrack 2 with no issues whatsoever FWIW.  The Microtrack gets a bad rap around here, but for writing a SPDIF stream reliably, the MT2 fits the bill IMO. 
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Offline charles

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #35 on: April 06, 2010, 10:47:14 AM »
If you do need a bit bucket I have been using the Microtrack 2 with no issues whatsoever FWIW.  The Microtrack gets a bad rap around here, but for writing a SPDIF stream reliably, the MT2 fits the bill IMO.

Why the bad rap?
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Offline L Ron Hoover

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #36 on: April 06, 2010, 12:17:41 PM »
Firmware glitches early on maybe? I don't get it either.
Great bitbucket here.

I've been using an original Microtrack for five or so years with no problems whatsoever.

Offline Jhurlbs81

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #37 on: April 06, 2010, 12:26:06 PM »
Quote
Why the bad rap?

When the original came out people reported it had software bugs and would lock up periodically.  There were other issues too that were slowly corrected through software updates.  (FWIW I owned the original and never had any issues recording a SPDIF stream.)

The only current issue I'm aware of with the MT2 is the decks inability to continue recording if the SPDIF signal is lost.  (If you turn off the A/D before you end the file on the MT you'll lose the file.)  I understand this is an issue, but I always end my recording before I start shutting things down.  Other members have experienced this issue while running an A/D off AC power.  A dip in power caused the SPDIF signal to be lost and the MT cannot recover.  If you know this you'll be fine.  I suspect a lot of folks lost files by turning off the pre/AD before ending their files. 

There may be other issues with the deck when it comes to the analog intputs and whatnot, but for simply recording a SPDIF signal the MT2 is all I need.  YMMV.  :)
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Offline Todd R

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #38 on: April 06, 2010, 12:35:03 PM »
Yep, I think that is about it.  I got a MT1 when they first came out and used it for several years.  It worked ok for a low cost bit bucket.  It was finicky though -- had to keep the spdif stream on and available from the moment you hit pause-record to when you ended the file, plus the internal battery was generally not robust enough to record a whole show and the MT was particular about when you connected/disconnected the external battery, etc.

Things like that -- to me it wasn't bad in particular, but was finicky and particular about how it needed to be connected, powered, used, etc, so it could be problematic in the field if you weren't careful.

The MT also came out with only 30v phantom available, not the typical (and originally spec'd) 48v, which left a bad taste for many people. 

The original MT (not sure about the MTII), was really pretty noisy on the analog inputs, so it was much better suited as a bit bucket behind a UA5 or V3.  Unless the MTII fixed these problems, I wouldn't recommend getting it if you plan on running it analog in from a Littlebox or SD MP2 or whatever.
« Last Edit: April 06, 2010, 02:25:18 PM by Todd R »
Mics: Microtech Gefell m20/m21 (nbob/pfa actives), Line Audio CM3, Church CA-11 cards
Preamp:  none <sniff>
Recorders:  Sound Devices MixPre-6, Sony PCM-M10, Zoom H4nPro

Offline it-goes-to-eleven

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #39 on: April 06, 2010, 01:57:55 PM »
Quote
Why the bad rap?

When the original came out people reported it had software bugs and would lock up periodically.  There were other issues too that were slowly corrected through software updates.  (FWIW I owned the original and never had any issues recording a SPDIF stream.)

I still have my microtrack.  New firmware or not, it is still a piece of sh*t.  Worse, m-audio knew it when they released it, and they even chose to lie about the specs.  We could go on about the specific flaws of the mt, but I don't see the point (Todd touches on some of the issues in his post).   I cannot think of another piece of gear so poorly designed.  In comparison, other handheld recorders "just work".

The mt2 apparently continues the idiocy with a built-in lithium battery.

Let's not forget that TS member spoogles' microtrack exploded in his hands after charging:

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=64648.0

Offline Jhurlbs81

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #40 on: April 06, 2010, 02:41:44 PM »
That's the first I've heard of an exploding cell in a microtrack. Interesting.

Yeah, I won't argue that the MT and MT2 are worthless when running line-in.  (not enough phantom, tons of noise, etc, etc, etc.)  But this is exactly how the thing gets a bad rap; people expect too much from an "all-in-one" plastic device the size of a pack of cigarettes.  Manufacturers specifications are never accurate and always exaggerated. 

What it can do, however, is reliably write a SPDIF stream providing your A/D can provide an uninterrupted SPDIF signal.  MT haters love to hate, but I wouldn't bother running expensive front-end gear into a recorder I didn't have full confidence in. 
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Offline Belexes

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #41 on: April 06, 2010, 02:42:30 PM »
There have been more "problems with M-audio" gear on this board than one can shake a stick at.
Busman Audio BSC1-K1/K2/K3/K4 > HiHo Silver XLR's > Deck TBD

CA-14 (c,o)/MM-HLSC-1 (4.7k mod)/AT853(4.7k mod)(c,o,h,sc)/CAFS (o)/CA-1 (o) > CA-9100 (V. 4.1)/CA-9200/CA-UBB > Sony PCM-D50/Sony PCM-M10

Offline it-goes-to-eleven

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #42 on: April 06, 2010, 03:25:38 PM »
Manufacturers specifications are never accurate and always exaggerated. 

Any examples?  I am trying to think of any other product where that has been an issue on this board.

In this case, the magnitude makes it look like fraud.

They claimed analog specs that were better than the 722.

They claimed 48v phantom.  The switch was even labeled "48v".  But it was 30volts even before you connected a mic.

I think the reliability issues and "quirks" that impacted recordings were more serious...  though not as serious as the "will it explode?"

Quote
What it can do, however, is reliably write a SPDIF stream providing your A/D can provide an uninterrupted SPDIF signal.

It sure would be nice if it could do that.  But the list of quirks and gotchas is lengthy...  And the posts from people who have encountered them are numerous.

Offline Jhurlbs81

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #43 on: April 06, 2010, 06:30:19 PM »
gotchas?
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Offline StuStu

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Re: Getting Back in the Game / Best Rig For $800-$1000?
« Reply #44 on: April 06, 2010, 07:33:33 PM »
I too had the original MT and I recommend avoiding this company altogether for a recorder when Edirol's R-09 and R-09HR are proven to be quite reliable. Of course there are other small recorder options, I'm just mentioning the recorders I have personal experience with.


As for mics, why not find a used set of AKG 460's or AKG 451eb's? With a Littlebox? Wouldn't this be close to your budget?


Good luck whatever you decide! :)
MK5, MK8, MK41, KM184D, CK77, B3 ---CMD 2U XT, KC5, KCY, AKI---KCY Tinybox, Ugly BB---AETA 4MinX, PMD661 MKII, R-26, M-10, MR-1

 

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