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Author Topic: Melting Batteries  (Read 7663 times)

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Offline travelinbeat

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Re: Melting Batteries
« Reply #15 on: January 09, 2010, 11:09:13 AM »
Brian that diagram helped a lot.  If I catch your meaning, I should be listening for the multimeter to stay silent, right?  That would be a good thing in this test?
Mics: Busman BSC1's K1/K2/K3/K4, CA-14's
Units: 2x Edirol R-09HR, iRiver H120 (RockBox + 2200mAh + CF mod)
Power & Accessories: Naiant Littlebox 1.5, Church ST-9100, Denecke PS-2, 2x Kingston SDHC (Model: SD2/8GB), 2x Kingston SDHC (Model: SD4/16GB), Kingston 32GB (Model: SD4/32GB), Darktrain XLR, 2x Shure A81WS's, 4x Powerex 9.6v, 12x Sanyo 2700 NiMH, 2x AT8410A's

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Offline setboy

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Re: Melting Batteries
« Reply #16 on: January 09, 2010, 04:59:59 PM »
Man! I thought this was going to be a how to on melting batteries >:D

Offline Brian Skalinder

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Re: Melting Batteries
« Reply #17 on: January 10, 2010, 12:02:47 AM »
Brian that diagram helped a lot.  If I catch your meaning, I should be listening for the multimeter to stay silent, right?  That would be a good thing in this test?

Glad the diagram helped a lot...I, too, appreciate visual aids.  Different multimeters indicate continuity differently, but yes...your multimeter probably beeps when there's continuity.  So yes, silent would be a good thing.
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Offline travelinbeat

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Re: Melting Batteries
« Reply #18 on: January 10, 2010, 09:27:17 PM »
Brian that diagram helped a lot.  If I catch your meaning, I should be listening for the multimeter to stay silent, right?  That would be a good thing in this test?

Glad the diagram helped a lot...I, too, appreciate visual aids.  Different multimeters indicate continuity differently, but yes...your multimeter probably beeps when there's continuity.  So yes, silent would be a good thing.

Winner, Winner!!!!!  First time, the multimeter stayed silent, but I didn't trust it, so I was jostling the 1/8" and twisting things and it starting beeping like mad!  After that first silence, I couldn't get it to come back silent again! 

I inspected things all a little closer and realized that the mono plug I was using had a petruding plastic case which *might* have been preventing it from sitting all the way snug in.  The PS2's hole for the phono-plug looks to have been constructed by drilling a hole out of the casing, and then lining up the actual "guts" of the female end with the hole in the case.  Thus, if the plastic sheilding on my male was too thick, I couldn't get the connection nessisary, as the whole male end, tip and all, wouldn't reach easily (God it's hard not to make jokes right now....).

Next step I've taken has been to buy another 9.6V RC battery and build another Tamiya > 1/8" cable, though this time using Radio Shack's 274-0288 1/8" plug instead of their model number 274-286.  Now I have my new cable made with my new model number mono male, and everything is testing perfectly with the multimeter.  Below I am including pictures of the two products, as posted on Radio Shack's website, enlarged a bit, and presented with guidelines to emphasize difference.  I will also post this discovery in the thread which discusses constructing an external RC battery for the PS2, and finally, once my battery charges, I will be sure to check back in and let you know how it goes-- hopefully it will be good news!  Thanks to all who've read-on and weighed-in thus far!




EDIT to add follow-up:  Charged the battery, plugged in the unpowered 1/8" > Tamiya cable into the PS2, then plugged in the male Tamiya lead coming off of the battery.  The light on the PS2 clicked on, as it should, and I ran it by itself like that for about 5 minutes without noticing any real change in the battery temperature (using the ever so scientific "hand-test").  After five minutes I hooked up my BSC1's and plugged in R09HR and it looks like I'm getting some great levels!  I've been running the battery this way now for the past 30 minutes and it is slightly warmer than cool, unused batteries, but certainly not hot by any means, let alone anywhere NEAR as hot as it got last time.  Looks like my second wire has worked! 

Also, before I ran this test, as the battery was charging, I opened up the PS2 and tried to see if the older, plastic 1/8" plug would fit through the hole in the casing and as I'd come to suspect, it would not (the obvious next trial then, resulted in my discovering conclusively that the second, silver 1/8" plug slides right through). 

My final diagnosis, owed entirely to the help of you folks, is that the black plastic sleeved 1/8" plug was being prevented from making a good connection with the female 1/8" inside the PS2, therefore causing a short, and the very rapid heating, and ultimately melting, of my last battery.

A million thanks folks, I love this board =)
« Last Edit: January 11, 2010, 02:16:41 AM by travelinbeat »
Mics: Busman BSC1's K1/K2/K3/K4, CA-14's
Units: 2x Edirol R-09HR, iRiver H120 (RockBox + 2200mAh + CF mod)
Power & Accessories: Naiant Littlebox 1.5, Church ST-9100, Denecke PS-2, 2x Kingston SDHC (Model: SD2/8GB), 2x Kingston SDHC (Model: SD4/16GB), Kingston 32GB (Model: SD4/32GB), Darktrain XLR, 2x Shure A81WS's, 4x Powerex 9.6v, 12x Sanyo 2700 NiMH, 2x AT8410A's

Team DC · Team Naiant · Team Busman · Team Church Audio · NFL Team is NY Jets

I tape in earnest dedication to the mission of breaking the back of the CTOA

 

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