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Gear / Technical Help => Cables => Topic started by: splumer on February 09, 2015, 11:28:34 AM
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I'm looking to get some right-angle female XLR cables and have been shopping around. I found some on Amazon in fashion colors, but I've never heard of the maker, and none have reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/male-right-angle-female-cable/dp/B00LOTR02C/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1423498533&sr=1-3&keywords=xlr+cable+right+angle
Anyone ever heard of these? I wanted to get color just to make it easier to differentiate between left and right (plus it looks cool).
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The connectors look cheap/non-Neutrik but I'm sure they work.. I'm not a particularly huge cable snob, though.
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I'm looking to get some right-angle female XLR cables and have been shopping around. I found some on Amazon in fashion colors, but I've never heard of the maker, and none have reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/male-right-angle-female-cable/dp/B00LOTR02C/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1423498533&sr=1-3&keywords=xlr+cable+right+angle
Anyone ever heard of these? I wanted to get color just to make it easier to differentiate between left and right (plus it looks cool).
IMO, I would get one of the cable-makers here to do them for you and ask them to order colored XLRs for you:
http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-cable-connector-accessories/bxx
Terry
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The connectors look cheap/non-Neutrik but I'm sure they work.. I'm not a particularly huge cable snob, though.
That's what I noticed - cheap looking connectors. I don't think of myself as a cable snob either really. I sure don't spend much time thinking about which cables make my recordings sound better but I do care about reliability and longevity and the connectors are huge part of that.
These make me a little nervous to look at. Somebody will chime in and say they've been using these cables for years and they're fine of course...
I guess you could buy a bunch of these at this price and toss them if/when they fail. Or buy some new connectors and rewire them.
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I'm not a cable snob either, but cables take a beating, so decent quality is a must. I had cheap cables I got in the bargain aisle at Wal Mart (!) and the connectors came apart when I was breaking down. I'd like to spend no more than $30-ish per cable.
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I'm not a cable snob either, but cables take a beating, so decent quality is a must. I had cheap cables I got in the bargain aisle at Wal Mart (!) and the connectors came apart when I was breaking down. I'd like to spend no more than $30-ish per cable.
I think the cable builders here are within that budget for XLR cables:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=110932.0 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=110932.0)
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133186.0 (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133186.0)
I can tell you that if you're used to buying cheap cables (like I was), the prices seem high until you have the experience of the quality and service firsthand. You also know everything is hand made from the best materials by one person who stands by their work. I think the cables Darktrain has made me will last many years.
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The connectors look cheap/non-Neutrik but I'm sure they work.. I'm not a particularly huge cable snob, though.
Perfect advice right here. +t to not being a cable snob, but there is a definitive 'minimum quality threshold' when it comes to XLR cables. Neutrik connectors and Canare Star Quad are arguably the gold standard for XLR cables and pennies more in price, relatively speaking, so why bother with anything else?
I would not buy the Yovus cables, they like junk to me. That said, I do think you have some good options at reasonable price points. Our custom cable makers have been suggested and can certainly make you a pair of XLR cables. If you want a simple 10ft run of decent Canare with stock XLR connectors, they can easily do that. If you want 'fancy' XLR cables with chopped XLR connectors and what not, they can of course do that as well. If you're handy with a soldering iron, you could also just buy a decent canare 10ft XLR cable and replace the female connector with a right angle connector of your brand/liking.
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Additionally, the TS cable makers can put them at what ever clock position (position of the chopped connector when coming out/into the device) you would desire or need.
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I can tell you that if you're used to buying cheap cables (like I was), the prices seem high until you have the experience of the quality and service firsthand. You also know everything is hand made from the best materials by one person who stands by their work. I think the cables Darktrain has made me will last many years.
For the record, I have Belden cables with Neutrik connectors now. I want to replace them because they're too long and the straight female connectors pull on my mics too much.
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I can tell you that if you're used to buying cheap cables (like I was), the prices seem high until you have the experience of the quality and service firsthand. You also know everything is hand made from the best materials by one person who stands by their work. I think the cables Darktrain has made me will last many years.
For the record, I have Belden cables with Neutrik connectors now. I want to replace them because they're too long and the straight female connectors pull on my mics too much.
OK, now I'm not sure I understand the actual need here. At any length, your cables should never be pulling on your mics. It's imperative that you gaffers your cables near the female end so that there is small loop of relaxed cabled between the mics. Any movement / pulling / tugging on the rest of the cable should absolutely not be pulling on the mics.
If you already have quality Belden cables with Neutrik connectors, why not just get them shortened? It's an easy task.
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I can tell you that if you're used to buying cheap cables (like I was), the prices seem high until you have the experience of the quality and service firsthand. You also know everything is hand made from the best materials by one person who stands by their work. I think the cables Darktrain has made me will last many years.
For the record, I have Belden cables with Neutrik connectors now. I want to replace them because they're too long and the straight female connectors pull on my mics too much.
OK, now I'm not sure I understand the actual need here. At any length, your cables should never be pulling on your mics. It's imperative that you gaffers your cables near the female end so that there is small loop of relaxed cabled between the mics. Any movement / pulling / tugging on the rest of the cable should absolutely not be pulling on the mics.
If you already have quality Belden cables with Neutrik connectors, why not just get them shortened? It's an easy task.
what he said
If you are uncomfortable doing it yourself (it's a very easy task if you know how to solder and if you don't it's a great way to learn) one of TS's resident cable makers can do the job for you. If the cables are way too long then have them shortened to your desired length and have the remaining section made into a second set of cables you can connect to the shortened set for the inevitable occasion when the need for a longer set arises.
wrt them tugging on your mics - absolutely put a shock de-coupling loop in the cables. Think of it as the same safety feature as a drip loop on a live electrical line entering a residence. Identical concept but a different application.
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OK, now I'm not sure I understand the actual need here. At any length, your cables should never be pulling on your mics. It's imperative that you gaffers your cables near the female end so that there is small loop of relaxed cabled between the mics. Any movement / pulling / tugging on the rest of the cable should absolutely not be pulling on the mics.
I just use a velcro cable tie:
(http://hoxnet.com/drop/IMG_20150212_213632.jpg)
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OK, now I'm not sure I understand the actual need here. At any length, your cables should never be pulling on your mics. It's imperative that you gaffers your cables near the female end so that there is small loop of relaxed cabled between the mics. Any movement / pulling / tugging on the rest of the cable should absolutely not be pulling on the mics.
I just use a velcro cable tie:
That's fine, especially with those beefy cables, so long as it doesn't slip when the cable gets pulled/tugged. If you're using thin AWG cables, gaffers is probably the better choice.
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That's fine, especially with those beefy cables, so long as it doesn't slip when the cable gets pulled/tugged. If you're using thin AWG cables, gaffers is probably the better choice.
I use another velcro tie at the bottom end of the stand too. It's not too beefy; Canare Star-Quad. I make my own cables.
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OK, now I'm not sure I understand the actual need here. At any length, your cables should never be pulling on your mics. It's imperative that you gaffers your cables near the female end so that there is small loop of relaxed cabled between the mics. Any movement / pulling / tugging on the rest of the cable should absolutely not be pulling on the mics.
I do tape them, and use velcro wraps the rest of the way down the stand. My mic clips could be tighter, though. I just want cables with right-angle plugs. I figured less stress, less hassle.