Gear / Technical Help > Microphones & Setup

DPA 406* Some Questions

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gormenghast:
I'm thinking following String Cheese Incident on tour next year for a while and thought about running something small but high quality.  Most likely on a pair of glasses and blend in to the crowd in a sweet spot and capture not only the band but the crowd around me.  Got me to thinking about the DPA 4060 or 4061's--I don't know the difference really, so can someone tell me why I would want one over the other--I'll buy them for this one time run only.  How best to power them?  I have a R05 coming in the mail so that's my only deck.  I don't want to lug a bunch of gear around so small lightweight and easily powered would be best.  I could go back to a Nbox Schoeps rig but that is expensive for a one time--maybe last time--run with SCI.

Gutbucket:
4061 for that application.  It is less sensitive and can handle higher SPL than 4060.  It is slightly noisier, but its self-noise will be way, way below the noise floor of any venue Cheese plays.

You'll need a battery box or preamp to power them properly.

You'll need either a batt-box or preamp with microdot inputs, a microdot stereo Y adapter, or need to re-terminate the mics with a different connector suitable for the batt-box/preamp - most typically that means wiring both mics to a single TRS stereo miniplug or a mini-XLR.

heathen:
I got a used pair of 4061s that are terminated in a stereo mini connector.  So far I've used those plugged into a CA9200 preamp, which is in turn plugged into a Roland R-05.  In the few outings I've had with this so far, I've been very happy with the results.

That said, I've thought about getting the 4061s re-terminated to microdot connectors so I could use an adapter to power them from phantom when running open.  If I do that I'd need the microdot stereo Y cable Gutbucket mentioned.

If you're buying new, you may want to get the Core version of the 4061s (I'm guessing the non-Core versions are still available new).  If it were me and I bought them new, I'd leave the microdot connectors and get the adapter cable.  I think that would still work with a battery box or pre like the CA9200.

fandelive:

--- Quote from: heathen on August 07, 2018, 01:07:39 PM ---If it were me and I bought them new, I'd leave the microdot connectors and get the adapter cable.  I think that would still work with a battery box or pre like the CA9200.

--- End quote ---

+1. The adapter cable works like a charm with a 9V powered battery box. That's what I do.

Below 9V might not be enough juice to power those mics propperly. I don't know about 12V battery boxes, but there might be a risk of frying the capsules...

Also if you buy them separated make sure both serial numbers are following themselves. Otherwise, you might get a non-matched pair. I've heard there could be a 8dB gap between two mics if they are from a different batch.

heathen:

--- Quote from: fandelive on August 07, 2018, 05:12:37 PM ---Also if you buy them separated make sure both serial numbers are following themselves. Otherwise, you might get a non-matched pair. I've heard there could be a 8dB gap between two mics if they are from a different batch.

--- End quote ---

Even if this is the case, though, once you've figured out the difference between the two capsules you could just start your post processing by applying the amount of gain needed to bring them back in line with each other.  I had a pair of Countryman B3s that were different, and I figured it out to be about 3.8 dB so I would just add 3.8 dB to the lower one right out of the gate.  It added about four seconds to my workflow  :)

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