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Gear / Technical Help => Remote Power => Topic started by: noahbickart on March 14, 2019, 10:14:29 AM
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I have a Schoeps vms02ib, which, according to Ted's excellent sticky at the top of this sub requires 9-16v / Schoeps DC Connector tip model # DIN45323 / Center pin (-) Ring (+) Reverse Polarity
As the internal battery option is 8 x AA, why not use the following:
M-Tip reverse polarity adaptor cable ($5.60):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Guitar-Reverse-Polarity-Converter-Cable-Lead-for-Keyboard-Guitar-Pedal-5-5x2-1mm/131446350790?epid=1292368177&hash=item1e9ad023c6:g:1pAAAOSw--1WrDzQ
8 x AA battery holder with on/off switch and m-tip ($2.90)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-AA-Cells-Battery-12V-Clip-Holder-Box-Case-with-Cover-ON-OFF-Switch-Wire-Lead/252385718968?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3D08c242895c0549fba2d8c22b37928a1b%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D401204561387%26itm%3D252385718968&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109
It seems like such a solution would be very inexpensive ($8.50 plus shipping) and convenient. Rechargeable AA's are plentiful and one could always use disposables in a pinch.
I suspect this could also work for lots of other 12v gear.
Thoughts?
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Seems like it should work.
Years ago when I ran a 02IB, I used a 9v DVD battery and Radio Shack Adapta-plug with the tip (I don't remember what size) reversed on the preamp end.
Worked perfect.
YMMV.
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i really like this option too. the internal sled is oriented in such a way that replacements from newegg mouser b&h are incorrect. thank you for ideas/links.
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I think this is the key...... Schoeps DC Connector tip.
The M-tip adapter will power the VMS but it will not be a rock solid connection and slightest bump to the cable is likely to disrupt DC power temporarily.
So a perfect world solution might be to hack off the M-tip on that adapter and replace it with Schoeps' proprietary connector. From what I can see all Schoeps did was to add a rubber donut ring to the end of a M-tip to get it to seat correctly into the VMS' DC power pin on the front of the box.
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I think this is the key...... Schoeps DC Connector tip.
The M-tip adapter will power the VMS but it will not be a rock solid connection and slightest bump to the cable is likely to disrupt DC power temporarily.
So a perfect world solution might be to hack off the M-tip on that adapter and replace it with Schoeps' proprietary connector. From what I can see all Schoeps did was to add a rubber donut ring to the end of a M-tip to get it to seat correctly into the VMS' DC power pin on the front of the box.
The problem is that Redding says they don’t have any more of the tips.
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Not trying to hijack thread... but I ran a 02IB for 2-3 years with the adapta-plug tip and never ever had a power issue.
I'll try to see if I have a record of what size tip I was using... but whatever size it was, it fit perfect.
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Yep - Steve Toney managed to track down a Schoeps vendor in Germany a few years back and snapped up what was left of their inventory of Schoeps tips. He super-generously gave me one and then I got a 2nd when I bought my 2nd VMS ( I believe the seller got his from Steve as well). Its amazing that something so tiny, simple, and inexpensive can throw a wrench into using the VMS efficiently.
One of the other things Steve helped me with was he got a few of the battery sleds and hacked off the metal arms (not sure what to call these) that make the battery sled connection inside the VMS. He flipped those metal arms around and superglued it all back together which effectively made a normal battery sled into one that now has the needed reverse polarity. Not the prettiest battery sled hack but it works and I have more confidence in using the sled (especially when taping lo-pro) that I do using an external battery that needs to be plugged into the front of the VMS.
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Not trying to hijack thread... but I ran a 02IB for 2-3 years with the adapta-plug tip and never ever had a power issue.
I'll try to see if I have a record of what size tip I was using... but whatever size it was, it fit perfect.
Guy - it fits but it can easily jiggle around? So if you have it set in your bag and nothing touches it then no problems but if someone were to accidentally kick the bag you could have a momentary disruption in power? Just guessing but that is my experience with the adapta plug solution. I used those for a while before Steve fixed me up with the real deal Schoeps plug.
I like Noah's solution and hope someone spends the $10 to test it out.
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Here's the thread with Steve's really useful information: https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=170684.0
TL/DR= M tip works, but is liable to shorting if pulled while the unit is on. He suggests that as long as one is careful to turn the unit off before pulling the plug, the m-tip should work just fine.
I'm really intrigued by the notion of hacking one of the standard 8 AA battery holders, so as to use it internally.
This whole mind exercise comes from a deep place of fear: When my plastic battery holder dies, how will I continue to run my VMS?
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mmmm I'm useless with tools or DIY hacks although I'm fascinated watching what other creative people can do. I'm wondering how hard it could be to engineer a rubber (or even gaff tape/heat shrink/epoxy) donut to fit around the end of the M-tip adapter effectively creating a Schoeps-like tip.
Otherwise the battery sled hack looks like something I would attempt to tackle if/when I break the sleds I got from Steve.
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I have a Korg MR1000 and it uses atypical connector. One of the Tekkeon Adapta-plug type connectors worked. Perhaps of of those would work of this too? Then you just reverse tip so negative and positive were switched...
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I have a Korg MR1000 and it uses atypical connector. One of the Tekkeon Adapta-plug type connectors worked. Perhaps of of those would work of this too? Then you just reverse tip so negative and positive were switched...
The problem is the adapta plug does fit on the pin but the VMS has a lot of open space around the area you plug the adapta-tip onto and therefore it can slide around if jostled preventing plug from seating tightly around the pin. The Schoeps version of the plug that is no longer available has a rubber ring around the end of the M-tip connector that fills the open space inside the VMS making the plug fit snugly. My explanation probably isn't making this clear without having pictures.
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I have a Korg MR1000 and it uses atypical connector. One of the Tekkeon Adapta-plug type connectors worked. Perhaps of of those would work of this too? Then you just reverse tip so negative and positive were switched...
The problem is the adapta plug does fit on the pin but the VMS has a lot of open space around the area you plug the adapta-tip onto and therefore it can slide around if jostled preventing plug from seating tightly around the pin. The Schoeps version of the plug that is no longer available has a rubber ring around the end of the M-tip connector that fills the open space inside the VMS making the plug fit snugly. My explanation probably isn't making this clear without having pictures.
I get the idea.
An alternative then is to search for DIN45323. This is apparently a standard German connector and variations are available from other manufacturers. Many appear to be in Europe but I see some avaiable in the US.
http://www1.futureelectronics.com/doc/Friwo/1807701.pdf
https://www.buerklin.com/en/1807703-hollow-plug-to-din-45323/p/24k4412
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^ The pic in this link you posted looks almost identical to the plug on my cable. Eureka! I think you found it ;D
https://www.buerklin.com/en/1807703-hollow-plug-to-din-45323/p/24k4412
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^ The pic in this link you posted looks almost identical to the plug on my cable. Eureka! I think you found it ;D
https://www.buerklin.com/en/1807703-hollow-plug-to-din-45323/p/24k4412
I wonder if Ted can marry this to the AA box above....
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Here's another version:
https://roka-berlin.de/products/power-supply-connectors/power-supply-plug-overmolded-on-cable/?lang=en
it seems like the important term is "overmolded" and "45323"
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I think this is the key...... Schoeps DC Connector tip.
The M-tip adapter will power the VMS but it will not be a rock solid connection and slightest bump to the cable is likely to disrupt DC power temporarily.
So a perfect world solution might be to hack off the M-tip on that adapter and replace it with Schoeps' proprietary connector. From what I can see all Schoeps did was to add a rubber donut ring to the end of a M-tip to get it to seat correctly into the VMS' DC power pin on the front of the box.
The problem is that Redding says they don’t have any more of the tips.
i believe i got a couple somewhere. i ordered a few at one point and they only had one, and sent me that and put the rest of my oder down as backordered. months later i got a couple more in the mail and they refunded me for the 1-2 they didnt send me that i had originally ordered
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I think this is the key...... Schoeps DC Connector tip.
The M-tip adapter will power the VMS but it will not be a rock solid connection and slightest bump to the cable is likely to disrupt DC power temporarily.
So a perfect world solution might be to hack off the M-tip on that adapter and replace it with Schoeps' proprietary connector. From what I can see all Schoeps did was to add a rubber donut ring to the end of a M-tip to get it to seat correctly into the VMS' DC power pin on the front of the box.
The problem is that Redding says they don’t have any more of the tips.
i believe i got a couple somewhere. i ordered a few at one point and they only had one, and sent me that and put the rest of my oder down as backordered. months later i got a couple more in the mail and they refunded me for the 1-2 they didnt send me that i had originally ordered
^
Sent you a PM Dustin...
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I had a cable with one of the schoeps tips that I almost gave away since it sat in the YS so long. Can't remember who eventually bought it.
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I think this is the key...... Schoeps DC Connector tip.
The M-tip adapter will power the VMS but it will not be a rock solid connection and slightest bump to the cable is likely to disrupt DC power temporarily.
So a perfect world solution might be to hack off the M-tip on that adapter and replace it with Schoeps' proprietary connector. From what I can see all Schoeps did was to add a rubber donut ring to the end of a M-tip to get it to seat correctly into the VMS' DC power pin on the front of the box.
The problem is that Redding says they don’t have any more of the tips.
i believe i got a couple somewhere. i ordered a few at one point and they only had one, and sent me that and put the rest of my oder down as backordered. months later i got a couple more in the mail and they refunded me for the 1-2 they didnt send me that i had originally ordered
I’ll gladly one if you have an extra....
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Newark sells a compatible connector:
https://www.newark.com/lumberg/nes-1-g/plug-low-voltage-1-95mm/dp/97K6463?st=nes%201
Made by Lumberg, this connector is called NES 1 G. There is a plastic shroud around the barrel, but I suppose this can be cut away or if I read the drawing correct, it should slide into the casing. Even here in Germany they are a rare sight nowadays, most DC plugs and jacks are 5.5/2.1 or 5.5/2.5
Hope that helps.
Rainer
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Newark sells a compatible connector:
https://www.newark.com/lumberg/nes-1-g/plug-low-voltage-1-95mm/dp/97K6463?st=nes%201
Made by Lumberg, this connector is called NES 1 G. There is a plastic shroud around the barrel, but I suppose this can be cut away or if I read the drawing correct, it should slide into the casing. Even here in Germany they are a rare sight nowadays, most DC plugs and jacks are 5.5/2.1 or 5.5/2.5
Hope that helps.
Rainer
Thanks. I've ordered a few of these and I'll report back.
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I finally did this. Works perfectly.
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sweetness. Good job!
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I’ve got extra tips if anyone else needs one.
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id love one if you are selling still?
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I’ve got extra tips if anyone else needs one.
i have one original VMS tip, but wanted to re-visit the internal battery pack option for 007
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I’ve got extra tips if anyone else needs one.
i have one original VMS tip, but wanted to re-visit the internal battery pack option for 007
Todd, back when I was futzing around with VMS's alot, I made up like 10 or so DIY battery sleds to give away. I'd give you one but unfortunately, they're all stashed away in a box in storage up in PA and I've been in Cali for the last year and I'll be here until November. It's a long story, but when I leave Cali, I head back home to Virginia, so I have no idea when I'll finally get my shit out of storage in Pennsylvania.
If you're handy with a soldering iron and a multi-meter, you can do this yourself. It's not very hard to do. All you need is a pair of wire cutters or something that will snip some metal, some flat metal strips (maybe 1/4 inch wide and somewhat robust), solder and soldering iron, solder flux, and non-conductive epoxy. (For example, don't use JB Weld because it has metal shavings impregnated in it.)
I recall that I sourced the strips from ebay. I can't remember details about what I bought except that they're 1/4 inch wide and pretty robust. It can't be foil strips because you want the strips to be able to retain their shape and apply pressure to ensure the sled stays connected when pressed up against the clips on the inside of the VMS.
Basically, all I did was took one of the non-reverse polarity battery sleds and epoxied over the existing terminals to make them non-conductive. I can't remember if I had to do any snipping, but it seems like I had to do some minor modifications with the wire cutters to make everything fit. Then I soldered the 1/4-inch thick flat metal strips onto the opposite terminal. Once everything was soldered up, I sort of molded the 1/4 inch strips in an arc so that the new strips will apply pressure onto the tabs of the VMS. Obviously, you want to make sure that the new strips are soldered to the opposite pole as the original battery sled had.
Before you stick it into your VMS with batteries loaded, use your multi-meter to check continuity, check polarities, check voltage at the terminals, etc. Boom you're almost done! It'll take you two hours at most for the first one...45 minutes for each one thereafter.
After you slide the sled in, you'll probably need to re-bend or re-shape the 1/4 inch strips so that they optimally contact the clips inside the VMS. I ended up throwing my first version away because the strips needed to be repositioned slightly.
I recommend buying 2 or 3 of the battery sleds so you can practice on one before settling on a final design. Even more if you want to have a spare or two.
Good luck!
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I’ve got extra tips if anyone else needs one.
i have one original VMS tip, but wanted to re-visit the internal battery pack option for 007
Todd, back when I was futzing around with VMS's alot, I made up like 10 or so DIY battery sleds to give away. I'd give you one but unfortunately, they're all stashed away in a box in storage up in PA and I've been in Cali for the last year and I'll be here until November. It's a long story, but when I leave Cali, I head back home to Virginia, so I have no idea when I'll finally get my shit out of storage in Pennsylvania.
If you're handy with a soldering iron and a multi-meter, you can do this yourself. It's not very hard to do. All you need is a pair of wire cutters or something that will snip some metal, some flat metal strips (maybe 1/4 inch wide and somewhat robust), solder and soldering iron, solder flux, and non-conductive epoxy. (For example, don't use JB Weld because it has metal shavings impregnated in it.)
I recall that I sourced the strips from ebay. I can't remember details about what I bought except that they're 1/4 inch wide and pretty robust. It can't be foil strips because you want the strips to be able to retain their shape and apply pressure to ensure the sled stays connected when pressed up against the clips on the inside of the VMS.
Basically, all I did was took one of the non-reverse polarity battery sleds and epoxied over the existing terminals to make them non-conductive. I can't remember if I had to do any snipping, but it seems like I had to do some minor modifications with the wire cutters to make everything fit. Then I soldered the 1/4-inch thick flat metal strips onto the opposite terminal. Once everything was soldered up, I sort of molded the 1/4 inch strips in an arc so that the new strips will apply pressure onto the tabs of the VMS. Obviously, you want to make sure that the new strips are soldered to the opposite pole as the original battery sled had.
Before you stick it into your VMS with batteries loaded, use your multi-meter to check continuity, check polarities, check voltage at the terminals, etc. Boom you're almost done! It'll take you two hours at most for the first one...45 minutes for each one thereafter.
After you slide the sled in, you'll probably need to re-bend or re-shape the 1/4 inch strips so that they optimally contact the clips inside the VMS. I ended up throwing my first version away because the strips needed to be repositioned slightly.
I recommend buying 2 or 3 of the battery sleds so you can practice on one before settling on a final design. Even more if you want to have a spare or two.
Good luck!
wow, this is so up my alley and exactly what i now plan on doing.
i was looking at the easier to find batteyr sled last night and realized i'd need to flip the contacts as they are now, and love the epoxy idea to ensure no shorts.
thank you again.
i am beyond thrilled regarding your post, this is seems very within reach and anything to cut off an external battery pack is greatly appreciated!
EDIT: this looks promising, also ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353333375517?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wsa8xdw_tae&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=T5-nXUyeQRS&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Similar except this uses the 'spring' instead of the bend battery springs.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284534816003?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3sRbM8MHTG6&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=T5-nXUyeQRS&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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wow, this is so up my alley and exactly what i now plan on doing.
i was looking at the easier to find batteyr sled last night and realized i'd need to flip the contacts as they are now, and love the epoxy idea to ensure no shorts.
thank you again.
i am beyond thrilled regarding your post, this is seems very within reach and anything to cut off an external battery pack is greatly appreciated!
Excellent! I'm really glad to help. I know you can do it, if for no other reason that I did it.
The two ebay connectors you located definitely look worth trying. I think either one of them might work...if I was a betting man I'd bet on the clip more than the spring. The challenge is that there's not a heck of a lot of room to work with between the end of the sled and the connectors and by epoxying over the old terminal, you're taking up even more of the precious millimeters that you already have to work with. That said, it's not an impossibly tight space so with some creativity and elbow grease, I'm sure you will not be denied. LOL.
By the way...one other pointer. Once you get the sled finished and have it ready for insertion/testing. Put the sled into the VMS without batteries. Check to make sure that neither one of your new contacts on the sled are cross-contacting either of the two clips on VMS. I mentioned earlier that I made up a bunch of my own DIY's to give away. Well, as you might imagine as I was doing this my 'manufacturing quality control' was non-existant. My sleds were visually gnarly looking, but functional. LOL. That said, I did end up throwing out a couple of them because when I soldered the strips they were positioned slightly cock-eyed so that, if I'd put them into the VMS with batteries installed, it would have shorted my pre-amp because one of the cock-eyed strips unwittingly was in contact with both VMS clips. Doy!!!