Topic: Edirol R-09 input woes

[guysonic]

here what my plugs look like....standard soundprofessionals and microphonemadness plugs.

Thank you for posting the photos.   

NO problem picking the right-angle plug as likely innocent,  but that dual cord straight plug definitely looks like an R-09 jack killer especially if used in pocketed or in-carrying-bag stxxlth mode where giving the cords few even minor stress-inducing  tugs is unavoidable.   

And this is exactly what breaks R-09 not cemented firmly enough jacks. 

So I'm now thinking adequate glue-down, was NOT done on your most recent replacement. 

Being somewhat an optimist, might also be Roland is recycling 'supposed to be jack fixed' refurbished decks from older runs as replacements, and you have yet to try Roland's most recent jack fix?   

Same NOT GOOD ENOUGH credit  goes to Roland either way, even if your replacement deck is not most recent version.

Since it seems you're on a roll,    and have a 'dialog' going with Roland service  ,  maybe keep returning the broken R-09 untill either getting a more solid fix, or a full refund.

Actually getting a manufacturer's product refund raises a special kind of corporate flag that's way more noticeable than repeated service fix cycles, and losing sales cash helps gets across a louder dissatisfaction message.   

And you get 'all your money' back instead of trying to sell used for less. 

Suggest getting by using another (the back up?) deck when the R-09 is out traveling like a ping-pong ball back - forth in play? 

Please post what's happening, especially if deciding to play more rounds of R-09 'table-tennis' with Roland

[gmm6797]

someone needs to disable the use of simleys around here

[bhakti]

sorry... can someone explain why the angled mini-jacks have less stress on the input on the R-09?
sorry for the dumbass question....

bhakti

[it-goes-to-eleven]

I made it for a year with a straight connector.
I think more important than a RA connector, I used extremely flexible, narrow diameter cable.

Nah.  It is fear that keeps your r09 in line.  Fear of the Dremel.

[Zaphod]

I made it for a year with a straight connector.
I think more important than a RA connector, I used extremely flexible, narrow diameter cable.

Nah.  It is fear that keeps your r09 in line.  Fear of the Dremel.

[guysonic]

sorry... can someone explain why the angled mini-jacks have less stress on the input on the R-09?
sorry for the dumbass question....

bhakti

While all R/A plugs are NOT better at keeping stress low, the small size molded one you show having very flexible cord IS type producing less stress.  Mechanism is fulcrum associated with leverage advantage. 

Example is: If you use a smaller-shorter length pry bar on something, you have LESS applied force than if using a longer length pry bar.  Same goes for plug strain relief size in that larger produces more force when bumped or the cord is tugged.   

[Arni99]

end of the story :
Just returned from my local retailer and got a 3rd Edirol R-09.
BUT I WON`T UNWRAP THIS ONE! 

They tested my mics and I showed them my mics work fine on my MZ-RH1.
On THEIR R09 my mics worked fine too, but on my 3 days old one they didn´t.....
They called Edirol who told them a problem like that is NOT KNOWN and has never happened, also no problem with mic-in or line-in jacks...HAHA!

THE NEW ONE IS FOR SALE!
380€ shipping included for all European tapers.
398€ is the price for a new one in Europe.

[guysonic]

end of the story :
Just returned from my local retailer and got a 3rd Edirol R-09.
BUT I WON`T UNWRAP THIS ONE! 

They tested my mics and I showed them my mics work fine on my MZ-RH1.
On THEIR R09 my mics worked fine too, but on my 3 days old one they didn´t.....
They called Edirol who told them a problem like that is NOT KNOWN and has never happened, also no problem with mic-in or line-in jacks...HAHA!

THE NEW ONE IS FOR SALE!
380€ shipping included for all European tapers.
398€ is the price for a new one in Europe.

Good luck on finding new owner, and another affordable flash deck that breaks only when thrown or hammered.   

[Arni99]

end of the story :
Just returned from my local retailer and got a 3rd Edirol R-09.
BUT I WON`T UNWRAP THIS ONE! 

They tested my mics and I showed them my mics work fine on my MZ-RH1.
On THEIR R09 my mics worked fine too, but on my 3 days old one they didn´t.....
They called Edirol who told them a problem like that is NOT KNOWN and has never happened, also no problem with mic-in or line-in jacks...HAHA!

THE NEW ONE IS FOR SALE!
380€ shipping included for all European tapers.
398€ is the price for a new one in Europe.

Good luck on finding new owner, and another affordable flash deck that breaks only when thrown or hammered.   

thx, I´m fine with my rockboxed iriver H120 and my Sony MZ-RH1 with solid input jacks etc. .

[flintstone]

gmm6797 wrote
"what is the alternative [to the R-09] for a good 24/48 small stealth deck??? "

guysonic wrote:
"Good luck on finding...another affordable flash deck that breaks only when thrown or hammered."

I like what I've read so far about the new Marantz PMD620.
Specs are very similar to R-1 and R-09. 
http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,91816.0.html

Delivery is supposed to start in November. MSRP is $399,
so I expect dealers will offer it somewhere around $300
after the first few weeks.

At this point, nobody knows what the PMD620 sounds like.
The preamp in the PMD660 has major limitations, but
the PMD671 sounds very good. 

Flintstone

[blindowl]

I asked this question once before, but it doesn't seem like anyone answered so I'll try again:

I have an out-of-warranty original build R09 that is suffering from the mic input defect.   What should I do?  I live in Los Angeles.  Where can I get it fixed?  How much will it cost me?  Can I ship it back to Edirol and get one of the new builds?

[guysonic]

I asked this question once before, but it doesn't seem like anyone answered so I'll try again:

I have an out-of-warranty original build R09 that is suffering from the mic input defect.   What should I do?  I live in Los Angeles.  Where can I get it fixed?  How much will it cost me?  Can I ship it back to Edirol and get one of the new builds?

My R-09 manual gives 5900 S Eastern Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90040-2938 for Roland Corporation USA (main headquarters), TEL 323-890 3700. 

Give them a call Monday to find out service cost and how to send in for repair. 

NO WAY you can do anything yourself.  I consider myself an expert with 3+ decades of experience with equipment and optical aids to do smallest SMT board work (I do mics and chip to board construction, so having this kind of gear is mandatory), and even I was sweating to repair my own R-09, and barely was able to fix the damage.

Even Roland throws away the damaged boards I think, just sending back with new, or repaired for other reason board inside.

[fourdegreeswarmer]

It doesn't appear that Roland put any glue under the jacks on my replacement board - examining the unused rivet holes reveals nothing but clean plastic.  There is epoxy in there now.   

I cleaned the board & jacks with denatured alcohol and scuffed the surface of the jacks a bit, then mixed and applied JB Weld brand epoxy around the perimeter of the input jacks and to the mounting holes to secure them to the board. I had the JB Weld on hand and have used it for other projects in the past so I was familiar with it's working properties.  It's a high-strength 'slow cure' non-conductive epoxy, but does have 'fillers' of some sort added for strength.  Lacking toothpicks, I cut some matchsticks to make some nice pointy applicators.  The pointy matchsticks also worked well to herd and remove excess epoxy and keep it from covering the solder pads so that I can still solder on leads to other jacks at some point.  I was careful not to get epoxy in any of the openings in the jack housings, let everything dry overnight and reassembled this morning.  I'll try it out tonight.

Is there a certain type of JB Weld (or another nonconductive epoxy) that is best for this strengthening? I've seen JB Weld described elsewhere as "nonconductive", but I've also seen one type that said it was good for soldering, and they all seem to contain "steel", which doesnt sound very nonconductive (or is that just a more general expression for very strong stuff)  Is it the Marine Weld type that you used?

[guysonic]

It doesn't appear that Roland put any glue under the jacks on my replacement board - examining the unused rivet holes reveals nothing but clean plastic.  There is epoxy in there now.   

I cleaned the board & jacks with denatured alcohol and scuffed the surface of the jacks a bit, then mixed and applied JB Weld brand epoxy around the perimeter of the input jacks and to the mounting holes to secure them to the board. I had the JB Weld on hand and have used it for other projects in the past so I was familiar with it's working properties.  It's a high-strength 'slow cure' non-conductive epoxy, but does have 'fillers' of some sort added for strength.  Lacking toothpicks, I cut some matchsticks to make some nice pointy applicators.  The pointy matchsticks also worked well to herd and remove excess epoxy and keep it from covering the solder pads so that I can still solder on leads to other jacks at some point.  I was careful not to get epoxy in any of the openings in the jack housings, let everything dry overnight and reassembled this morning.  I'll try it out tonight.

Is there a certain type of JB Weld (or another nonconductive epoxy) that is best for this strengthening? I've seen JB Weld described elsewhere as "nonconductive", but I've also seen one type that said it was good for soldering, and they all seem to contain "steel", which doesnt sound very nonconductive (or is that just a more general expression for very strong stuff)  Is it the Marine Weld type that you used?

'Plastic Welder' type(s) 2-part epoxy seems to have best chance of adhering to plastic jack and coated boards.  Cleaning to-be-glued surfaces with a Q-tip moistened with pure +91% isopropyl alcohol is good prep practice.

[Gutbucket]

Is there a certain type of JB Weld (or another nonconductive epoxy) that is best for this strengthening? I've seen JB Weld described elsewhere as "nonconductive", but I've also seen one type that said it was good for soldering, and they all seem to contain "steel", which doesnt sound very nonconductive (or is that just a more general expression for very strong stuff)  Is it the Marine Weld type that you used?

I used the standard type JB Weld.  I did consider the filler material's electrical properties, but the package says 'non-conductive' and a quick check with an ohm-meter on some cured material confirmed that for me.  I'll defer to Guysonic's advice on the 'plastic welder' type perhaps being best suited to this application. I don't know if certain epoxy packaging states 'plastic welder' or not or if JB qualifies.  The thing to be aware of with the standard JB weld I used is that it does tend to flow until it cures, so be carefull to keep it out of the jack openings and postition the project so you don't get an unfortunate drip forming after you have left it alone to cure.  FWIW, my reinforced jacks on the replacement board are going strong, but I've been using a small right angle plug, been gentle with the jacks and taking the precautions discussed here and I haven't opened it up since to take a look.