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Author Topic: New Playback Questions: Source (?) > PHP-850 preamp > HCA-1200II amp > VR-4's  (Read 22260 times)

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Offline bkirby

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the ones they have rated for 6ga
http://vampirewire.com/mcart/index.cgi?code=3&page=1&cat=7

doesn't really matter which, as long as it can handle that wire.

Just make sure you have a pretty beefy crimper! I had a mighty tough time working on those! They sure are solid once finished though...

Oh, and I used model "Part #HDS1 - Spade Connector"...

Offline thegreatgumbino

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Alright, question of the day.  If I run this 6 awg speaker wire, my understanding is that I'm going to have to do one of two things. 

Option 1 (which I hope works):

Run 8 each 6 awg conductors out of the amp.  This would be 2 conductors out of the (+) and 2 conductors out of the (-) binding post for both the right and left speaker outputs of the amp.  I would have to stack 2 of the spade connections at the (+) and (-) binding posts for the left and right outputs on the amp.  Is stacking the spades on the binding posts do-able?  Does this pose any problems with supplying the power over two separate runs that may short out the amp?

Option 2

Run 4 each 6 awg conductors out of the amp.  This would be ione conductor out of the (+) and one conductor out of the (-) binding post for both the right and left speaker outputs of the amp.  I'd then have remove the sheathing and bi-wire the cables so that the 4 conductors produce 8 spade terminations to power the 4 speaker cabinets.  If I go this route, I'd have to re-teflon the exposed wire.  Basically, what Nick was referring to here:

I had them in a bi-wire config for a while, and those really kicked ass.  It was super easy w/this stuff.  the metal braid consists of 19 other braids of 19 wires.  you can untwist the entire thing, and re-twist it into two (one w/10 and one w/9 braids) leads at the speaker end, and leave it as is on the amp end.
this way, you only need those 6ga spades on one end, the amp.
It’s not what you look like when you’re doin’ what you’re doin’, it’s what your doin’ when you’re doin’ what you look like your doin’…express yourself. - Charles Wright

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Offline bkirby

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Alright, question of the day.  If I run this 6 awg speaker wire, my understanding is that I'm going to have to do one of two things. 

Option 1 (which I hope works):

Run 8 each 6 awg conductors out of the amp.  This would be 2 conductors out of the (+) and 2 conductors out of the (-) binding post for both the right and left speaker outputs of the amp.  I would have to stack 2 of the spade connections at the (+) and (-) binding posts for the left and right outputs on the amp.  Is stacking the spades on the binding posts do-able?  Does this pose any problems with supplying the power over two separate runs that may short out the amp?

Option 2

Run 4 each 6 awg conductors out of the amp.  This would be ione conductor out of the (+) and one conductor out of the (-) binding post for both the right and left speaker outputs of the amp.  I'd then have remove the sheathing and bi-wire the cables so that the 4 conductors produce 8 spade terminations to power the 4 speaker cabinets.  If I go this route, I'd have to re-teflon the exposed wire.  Basically, what Nick was referring to here:

I had them in a bi-wire config for a while, and those really kicked ass.  It was super easy w/this stuff.  the metal braid consists of 19 other braids of 19 wires.  you can untwist the entire thing, and re-twist it into two (one w/10 and one w/9 braids) leads at the speaker end, and leave it as is on the amp end.
this way, you only need those 6ga spades on one end, the amp.


Mine are set up as Option 1 which I believe is called shotgun wiring!

Offline Nick's Picks

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you have no choice in the matter.
you must go option 1.
the spades will stack up just fine..but it will likely be a PITA due to the stiffness of the wire.

this is how VS says is "the only way".
plus, you'd have to un-braid a LOT of wire to make that 30" gap between the posts eh?

Offline thegreatgumbino

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you have no choice in the matter.
you must go option 1.
the spades will stack up just fine..but it will likely be a PITA due to the stiffness of the wire.

this is how VS says is "the only way".
plus, you'd have to un-braid a LOT of wire to make that 30" gap between the posts eh?


Thanks, guys.  I received speakers yesterday and got them setup temporarily with the home depot cables until my silver stock comes in.  I ran the cables per Option 1 and had no problems.  I revisited this in my post yesterday because I was talking to a guy at a hi-fi store and he was telling me it wouldn't work  ???  I don't think he understood what I was saying, or just didn't have a clue.

FWIW, I picked up the Vampire HDS3 spades from Take Five Audio in Canada.  They have Cryo'd HDS3's for about $2.65 USD.  Most US retailers I found wanted $2.50/each for an non Cyro'd version.
It’s not what you look like when you’re doin’ what you’re doin’, it’s what your doin’ when you’re doin’ what you look like your doin’…express yourself. - Charles Wright

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Offline thegreatgumbino

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Oh, btw...

The new system sounded bad ass for 16 bit even with cheapo rca interconnects from my original Nintendo, the home depot speaker cables, my laptop feeding the source through a shitty mini > dual rca cable, and the amp/preamp being cold.  I can't freakin' wait to get some silver cables & interconnects made and figure out how to hook up my dvd player and listen to some 24 bit files. 

The down side was my wife told me they have been banished to the loft due to the fact that they are big & ugly!   ;D  I claimed I didn't realize how big they were going to be  :yack: 

What that does is enable me to use the iMac (in the loft) as the source > Firewire Audiophile 24/96 > PHP-850 preamp > HCA-1200II amp > VR-4.  I'm still going to figure out how to hook up the old Panasonic dvd player.  I need to do some research on that though.  Does a dvd player read flac files off of a cdr or dvd-v?

+T's for all the help.
It’s not what you look like when you’re doin’ what you’re doin’, it’s what your doin’ when you’re doin’ what you look like your doin’…express yourself. - Charles Wright

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Offline carlbeck

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Honestly being in the loft can't be that bad of a thing, crank it up >:D
I know you like, tape for people's approval and stuff, and wave your tapes around like they're your dick...  but even you can't actually think section tapes from philips sound good.  



Mics: Telefunken Elam 260, 61, 62, MBHO KA200, KA500 > Niant PFA's, AKG C34L-MS
Preamps: Grace Lunatec V2, Shure FP24
Decks: Tascam DR-2d, Zoom F8

Old rig: Recording: AKG C34 & AKG CK1X or CK2X > MK46 > 460 > Aeta Mix2000 > Sound Devices 702

Playback: Thorens TD125, Denon DVD-2900> Bel Canto DAC-1 > Audible Illusions 3B > Rogue Atlas >ZU Wax Shotgun> Hyperion 938
ALL TUBES BABY!!!

Offline Nick's Picks

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that much less room to pressurize.
:)
i'm tellin ya, Stevie Wonder "livin for the city".

no, you can't play FLAC files via any CD/DVD deck that I know of, unless its in a computer.

Offline thegreatgumbino

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Honestly being in the loft can't be that bad of a thing, crank it up >:D

Oh, definitely not.  It's a good sized room (15' x 18'), and it's carpeted where downstairs is wood.  It also solves my source dilemma for me since the computer is up there.  Now that I can run out of the Mac I'm going to figure out how to go media-less.  I've got an external 250 gb HD, so I could pick up another and set them up for automatic backups.  It would be a cheap and easy way to get started. 

The worst part about the loft it is that it's directly above the master bath, so she's going to have a hard time sleeping while I'm jammin' out upstairs  >:D

that much less room to pressurize.
:)
i'm tellin ya, Stevie Wonder "livin for the city".

no, you can't play FLAC files via any CD/DVD deck that I know of, unless its in a computer.



Good to know.  Thanks, Nick.  That helps even more with my source dilemma since my archived cd's/dvd's are all flac files.  All the more reason to move to HD based playback. 

Unfortunately, I don't have Stevie Wonder's "livin for the city".  But I sure had fun playing a ton of other stuff last night!
It’s not what you look like when you’re doin’ what you’re doin’, it’s what your doin’ when you’re doin’ what you look like your doin’…express yourself. - Charles Wright

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Offline som

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i'm tellin ya, Stevie Wonder "livin for the city".

I kept reading this, so last night I pulled out my old vinyl copy of Innervisions that I haven't played in years and listened to the whole thing. What a great album, +T for reminding me of that!
AT ES943/C's > Church Audio ST-9100 > iRiver H100 (Rockboxed)

Offline bkirby

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you have no choice in the matter.
you must go option 1.
the spades will stack up just fine..but it will likely be a PITA due to the stiffness of the wire.

this is how VS says is "the only way".
plus, you'd have to un-braid a LOT of wire to make that 30" gap between the posts eh?


Yeah, it's a major PITA! Make sure you stack the spades the same way on each terminal. Apparentally it will make a difference in sound (but I don't hear anything). Also, make sure you crank down on the posts to keep them from falling out or moving (not too much to break the post)! The stiff cables really made this difficult, but they sure do sound good in my system!

Offline thegreatgumbino

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4) Anyone have an online copy of the owner's manual that I can read up on before they get here?

Anyone have this?  I don't find an owner's manual on their website.  I'm curious to know how to use the volume dials on the back of the midrange/tweeter cabinet to maximize their performance, and I'm curious in any other pointers they give on how to set them up for maximum performance.
It’s not what you look like when you’re doin’ what you’re doin’, it’s what your doin’ when you’re doin’ what you look like your doin’…express yourself. - Charles Wright

My recordings on the Archive

Offline Nick's Picks

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the dial on the back adjusts the output of th erear fire tweeter.  the higher the number, the higher the volume.
I liked it cranked.  lots of depth w/it on.

Offline Nick's Picks

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also, I recall from the manual that they suggested a minimum of 8' spread between them.  and to have them pulled out at least 2'.

I ran mine 12' apart, 5' out in the room and 2.5' from each side wall.  Toed in a lot, maybe 3", so that they were pointing at each shoulder while I sat.
My seat was 13' away.
After keeping this for nearly a year, I moved them in a little to 10' apart.  I think I liked that a little better.  imaging was a little more stable.

Offline thegreatgumbino

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What is the longest speaker cable run you can make?  I've read several things on Cable Asylum that mention 8', but that is pretty limiting.  Any issue with 10' runs, realistically?

I'm loving my new playback.  My recordings sound completely different!  I've been considering moving to some different mics, but after hearing my recordings on a good playback system I've decided to hold off for a while.   8)
It’s not what you look like when you’re doin’ what you’re doin’, it’s what your doin’ when you’re doin’ what you look like your doin’…express yourself. - Charles Wright

My recordings on the Archive

 

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