Topic: Any Rega RP-1 owners out there? I have questions...

[mfrench]

I use an inexpensive $15 eBay digital scale.  It runs on AA batts, for ease of power.

[twalker]

I've used the Garrard for years, 2 VPIs with Rega Arms and an Acoustic Solid, SME arm, Benz cartridge.  It was recommended to me when I purchased my first VPI, I was told to just look for a used one. Found one in old stereo and record shop in Hollywood.  But, I guess everybody is different. 

I have used the Shure as well and a smattering of those digital ones.  But, I always go back to the Garrard.

And, I agree...even if I am a "über high end fetishist"   , it is relatively easy once you actually do it.

Oh yeah,  there are all kinds who listen to vinyl.  Each of us will probably have a different opinion on setup and calibration tools.  There are those who will tell you cleaning your records with steam is better than washing.  Some will say a brush is all that is needed.  Bottom line, it is another hobby where varying opinions are always fun to share.

[mfrench]

As they say there are many roads to rome,...
Me, I love overhauling older idler drive decks, and long tonearms.  I've got seven decks ranging from 1950->1970, by Presto Recording Corp. (1950->1955), Bogen-Presto (1959->1963, rebadged Swiss Lenco's) and Lenco L75's; and a 1964 Pioneer PL7E idler drive

[mfrench]

acidjack-
Did your deck come with a cartridge alignment protractor?
If not, go to vinylengine.com, and they'll likely have one for you that you can d/l, and print.

[twalker]

As they say there are many roads to rome,...
Me, I love overhauling older idler drive decks, and long tonearms.  I've got seven decks ranging from 1950->1970, by Presto Recording Corp. (1950->1955), Bogen-Presto (1959->1963, rebadged Swiss Lenco's) and Lenco L75's; and a 1964 Pioneer PL7E idler drive

Nice! 

[zowie]

As they say there are many roads to rome,...
Me, I love overhauling older idler drive decks, and long tonearms.  I've got seven decks ranging from 1950->1970, by Presto Recording Corp. (1950->1955), Bogen-Presto (1959->1963, rebadged Swiss Lenco's) and Lenco L75's; and a 1964 Pioneer PL7E idler drive

I'd like to go further down that route one day.  I'm currently sportin' a TD-111/Ortofon (among other decks), but stock.

The coolest would be one of those washing machine sized RCA broadcast turntables with the two-foot motor shaft.  Used them in radio before we switched over to Technics SPs.   Joe Bussard uses one in the "Desperate Man Blues" documentary.

[twalker]

As they say there are many roads to rome,...
Me, I love overhauling older idler drive decks, and long tonearms.  I've got seven decks ranging from 1950->1970, by Presto Recording Corp. (1950->1955), Bogen-Presto (1959->1963, rebadged Swiss Lenco's) and Lenco L75's; and a 1964 Pioneer PL7E idler drive

I'd like to go further down that route one day.  I'm currently sportin' a TD-111/Ortofon (among other decks), but stock.

The coolest would be one of those washing machine sized RCA broadcast turntables with the two-foot motor shaft.  Used them in radio before we switched over to Technics SPs.   Joe Bussard uses one in the "Desperate Man Blues" documentary.

Oh! That would be cool.  I think me favorite would be an EMT 948 broadcast table. 

[mfrench]

I'm currently following a rebuild of an EMT 927 dual console overhaul, by a doctor from Belgium. This one is two 16" platters.  The original platters went missing, so, the rebuild is being done with two newly machined platters.
The build is being documented over at http://www.lencoheaven.net and is in the "Other Turntables" section of the forum.
If you've not been there yet - LH is an amazing TT resource for anybody, not just idler heads. Its heaven for any fan of idler drives though.  Its an amazing group of minds over there.

EMT dual console rebuild:
http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=7793.0

My TT projects are documented there as well:
http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=1112.msg98417#msg98417

[acidjack]

acidjack-
Did your deck come with a cartridge alignment protractor?
If not, go to vinylengine.com, and they'll likely have one for you that you can d/l, and print.

Short answer is yes, it did, but their instructions made absolutely no sense to me.  I've never had a non-completely-idiot-proofed record player.  I will go look up that link, though, and try and make sense of it. 

[mfrench]

With the supplied protractor sheet, you should just be able to drop the stylus tip into/onto the designated spot, and then use the outside case of the cartridge to make sure that the cartridge is aligned squarely to the reference lines of the protractor.
I'm not sure what cartridge it has, so i can only generically reply to your questions. I've only run one Rega deck, the P3-24. Its arm came with a three hole design in its headshell. I also had the Rega Elys2 cartridge on that arm.  The Elys2 cartridge had a three hole design that directly corresponds to / was designed for that arm. So, you'd mount the three screws, and supposedly you were in perfect alignment.
THe P3-24 was a more advanced level of deck, and they made it foolproof.  I'm a little surprised that their entry level deck doesn't have the same foolproof way of mounting the cartridge, given that the typical use for it was going to be with people that were not used to setting up turntables.

So, back to the protractor:
I've always taken a pin, and punched a slight relief at the stylus drop point on the protractor. This should give you the required overhang. Then by eye, make sure that the casing of the cartridge is aligned squarely to the reference lines of the protractor.  You'll never get it 100% perfect with a pivoting arm, but you can average out the alignment between the inner and outer "null points" easily enough, and accurately enough, for fine playback.

What the klunking noise is, I'm not sure. 
Did you buy the deck new?
My first thought is spindle bearing noise, or maybe motor noise.
If you pull the belt off, does the platter spin freely and smoothly?
Is there any flat spot in the belt?

Another good source for TT information is http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php  (AK)
There are quite a few people with that deck there, and a whole bunch of knowledgeable TT veterans.
You can ask there, or do database searches as well, if you don't want to sign up.  I like this site, as its not as contentious as some sites that deal with analog TT playback.  AK and LH are two really friendly sites to ask questions or seek answers.

Does the needle drop easily onto the record, or does it try to skate inward?

[twalker]

I'm currently following a rebuild of an EMT 927 dual console overhaul, by a doctor from Belgium. This one is two 16" platters.  The original platters went missing, so, the rebuild is being done with two newly machined platters.
The build is being documented over at http://www.lencoheaven.net and is in the "Other Turntables" section of the forum.
If you've not been there yet - LH is an amazing TT resource for anybody, not just idler heads. Its heaven for any fan of idler drives though.  Its an amazing group of minds over there.

EMT dual console rebuild:
http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=7793.0

My TT projects are documented there as well:
http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=1112.msg98417#msg98417

Nothing else to say other than, WOW! Thanks for sharing.

[acidjack]

With the supplied protractor sheet, you should just be able to drop the stylus tip into/onto the designated spot, and then use the outside case of the cartridge to make sure that the cartridge is aligned squarely to the reference lines of the protractor.
I'm not sure what cartridge it has, so i can only generically reply to your questions. I've only run one Rega deck, the P3-24. Its arm came with a three hole design in its headshell. I also had the Rega Elys2 cartridge on that arm.  The Elys2 cartridge had a three hole design that directly corresponds to / was designed for that arm. So, you'd mount the three screws, and supposedly you were in perfect alignment.
THe P3-24 was a more advanced level of deck, and they made it foolproof.  I'm a little surprised that their entry level deck doesn't have the same foolproof way of mounting the cartridge, given that the typical use for it was going to be with people that were not used to setting up turntables.

So, back to the protractor:
I've always taken a pin, and punched a slight relief at the stylus drop point on the protractor. This should give you the required overhang. Then by eye, make sure that the casing of the cartridge is aligned squarely to the reference lines of the protractor.  You'll never get it 100% perfect with a pivoting arm, but you can average out the alignment between the inner and outer "null points" easily enough, and accurately enough, for fine playback.

What the klunking noise is, I'm not sure. 
Did you buy the deck new?
My first thought is spindle bearing noise, or maybe motor noise.
If you pull the belt off, does the platter spin freely and smoothly?
Is there any flat spot in the belt?

Another good source for TT information is http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php  (AK)
There are quite a few people with that deck there, and a whole bunch of knowledgeable TT veterans.
You can ask there, or do database searches as well, if you don't want to sign up.  I like this site, as its not as contentious as some sites that deal with analog TT playback.  AK and LH are two really friendly sites to ask questions or seek answers.

Does the needle drop easily onto the record, or does it try to skate inward?

It is brand new. 

The platter seems to spin freely and smoothly. 

On the needle drop, the drop is kind of loud... I lower the needle using that lever in the back... (please tell me that is how you're supposed to do it...)... I always lower it slowly so that it just finally plunks down on the vinyl.

It's OK if you are all laughing at my incompetence btw... believe me it is embarrassing to know absolutely nothing about operating a seemingly very simple product.

[mfrench]

I'm not laughing, at all.  A truly simple product is a CD player - a TT is not. Analog is a challenge!

The arm lowering is being done correctly.  It should have some sort of damping built into it, so that even if you drop the lever quickly, the arm should come down slower in relation to how quickly you drop the lever. Ultimately, you're doing that correctly.

In a different phrasing, a similar question,...
When the needle touches down, do you enter into the lead-in groove smoothly, and start the music smoothly, without jumping into the music?
I've had misadjusted arms that start racing towards the music in the lead-in groove, and actually jumping into the music quite un-smoothly.

I'm not sure if its been asked, so I'll ask again,...
Is the deck sitting level?

ANother question:
Is there any anomaly in playback, like a skipping or sticking in a similar spot with different records?
I'm trying to figure out what that thunking might be. Tonearms have bearings in them as well, and that is another source for possible anomalies/noise.

[acidjack]

I'm not laughing, at all.  A truly simple product is a CD player - a TT is not. Analog is a challenge!

The arm lowering is being done correctly.  It should have some sort of damping built into it, so that even if you drop the lever quickly, the arm should come down slower in relation to how quickly you drop the lever. Ultimately, you're doing that correctly.

In a different phrasing, a similar question,...
When the needle touches down, do you enter into the lead-in groove smoothly, and start the music smoothly, without jumping into the music?
I've had misadjusted arms that start racing towards the music in the lead-in groove, and actually jumping into the music quite un-smoothly.

I'm not sure if its been asked, so I'll ask again,...
Is the deck sitting level?

ANother question:
Is there any anomaly in playback, like a skipping or sticking in a similar spot with different records?
I'm trying to figure out what that thunking might be. Tonearms have bearings in them as well, and that is another source for possible anomalies/noise.

Well, I appreciate your patience, because this whole analog world makes me feel like an idiot.  My last record player just had a "start" button with an automatic arm... and I owned it in the early 90s...

To answer your questions in turn:

- it seems level to me. Floor surface is flat, it's on top of an amp that is flat. There is no jerking or anything if I press down on it.

- There has been skipping/sticking on a few records - all of them colored vinyl, which I understand is more finicky and also prone to warping(?)  (Though these were new, unplayed vinyl).

- The needle touch down and move into the lead-in seems fine to me. 

- So anyway, I figured rather than just try to describe it in words, I'd record what it sounds like. This is an AKG 414 mic'ing my left speaker.  The record playing is brand-new - only played one other time, this morning.  It sounds to me like the vinyl is hitting the cartridge on every revolution, just slightly, making that light "thunk" sound.  But hear it for yourself:

http://www.nyctaper.com/regatest.mp3

I also took video of it, if that helps.

[mfrench]

Try this:
Try getting the tonearm VTF (vertical tracking force) to a neutral floating point, where the arm floats at neutral, horizontal position; this is done by turning the counterweight outward on the arm stub.  To do this, you'll need to zero out any antiskating mechanism (bias) that you have first.

When you've achieved zero-neutral with the arm, put a penny on the arm, right above the cartridge.  You might need to add small bit of doubled-over or two side tape to get it to stay on the arm;  maybe some blue tack putty - a minimal amount.
A US penny weighs 2.5grams, which is a fair average tracking weight, maybe just a touch heavy, but only a bit over what some modern carts spec as a VTF (ex: The Rega Elys2 specs at 1.75gr vtf).
You can also try zeroing the arm to neutral, and then adding just enough vtf to cause the arm to lower, by bringing the counterweight forward towards the pivot.  I suggested the penny, as its a known vtf load for this test effort.

See if this "known" VTF helps in eliminating the noise.
Its entirely possible that you have a stylus cantilever suspension issue that cannot support the arm and cart, or are running to much VTF.