Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Battery Boxes, Preamps, Mixers, ADCs, and Processors => Topic started by: Nick's Picks on January 22, 2004, 07:55:14 AM
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hey now folks...
I plan on taking my digimod UA-5 and really trying to soup it up!!
My plan:
- i'm going to try and install some level metters. I've found tons of them (the boards w/the lights) online. Not sure how it will be done, but I plan on giving it serious effort. For mounting, I plan on cutting the aluminum case and inserting it someplace so that it is visable.
- analog front end. Not sure what i'm going to do here, but I'm going to learn this thing inside and out.
- analog output. I'm gonig to try and recruit Wayne of Boulder Cables to look into this and breathe some of his magic here. I always like the sound of playback through the UA-5, and seeing what he can do with a $130 ART DIO (turning it into something sweet!), perhaps he can turn this into a great DAC as well.
Any other ideas?
I was thinking of maybe trying to move the toslkink/coax jacs to the front by soldering wire on the board in place of the jacks so that each one will be more like a 10" pigtail w/a female jack on the end. That could be cool.
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Moving the rear imput level to the front would be nice.
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locking XLRs, that should be easy enough. Good idea!
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Get the digital input to output to coax, optical as well as the USB all at once, rather than only to the USB. Allows for DAT patching and optical and USB outputing while still passing the coax signal - a gloryfied CO2 without all the problems associated with the CO2...
Terry
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what would be gained by this? doesn't the Oade digimod allow for all digital outputs to be hot (from analog input) ?
I cant imagine running digi in to a UA-5 for any reason other than laptop recording w/a different A/D feeding the UA-5, or for DAC purposes..in which case digital output is not needed.
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what would be gained by this? doesn't the Oade digimod allow for all digital outputs to be hot (from analog input) ?
I cant imagine running digi in to a UA-5 for any reason other than laptop recording w/a different A/D feeding the UA-5, or for DAC purposes..in which case digital output is not needed.
I use a Nomad 3 (optical in) and would like to patch out of DAT chains. Right now, the ONLY device that allows me to do this is the CO2 (which sucks ass). I could use a digital format converter like the Hosa ODLs, but they do not pass the digital coax, just convert one to the other.
And yes, the digi-mod will run all the digi-outs hot from the analog in, but when you switch to digital input, it only outputs to the USB.
It took me several attempts to explain this even to Doug, so I'm not surprised you are confused...
So, for me, and the oterhs that use the UA5, I would like to be able to take a Sony 7-pin/digital coax output, run it into my UA5, run my Nomad out the optical, and pass the coax to the next machine in the chain. I would like 1 device that does this as well as all the regular UA5 features, makes for 1 thing to carry in the field rather than 2 - the UA5 and a separate convertor.
So yeah, basically, I'd like a CO2 mod on my UA5 - except without all the asociated CO2 problems...
Terry
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so buy the hosa box and a coax splitter.
problem solved
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hey now folks...
I plan on taking my digimod UA-5 and really trying to soup it up!!
My plan:
- i'm going to try and install some level metters. I've found tons of them (the boards w/the lights) online. Not sure how it will be done, but I plan on giving it serious effort. For mounting, I plan on cutting the aluminum case and inserting it someplace so that it is visable.
- analog front end. Not sure what i'm going to do here, but I'm going to learn this thing inside and out.
There's a risk of affecting the analog pre by adding metering.
Go for the highest impedance and take the voltage off the preamp out.
You'll probably need a circuit to show peak(not rms) levels, as this is what you seek to meter. A clipping level and 6db below that should be all that you'd really need - There's not a lot of room on that front panel, did you mean the top ? Maybe a 6db off peak light addded to Eddy's peak indicator circuit ?
Do you want to share ideas or are you trying to get some industry going ?
I'm working on a Op-Amp pre mod. I expect it to take some time, as I'm doing it on my "spare" time.
Got a full schematic?
-Bob
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Talking with Doug about it, and he came up w/a great idea for meeters.
This would be a seperate project box that took a 9v signal (as most meeters i've been looking at will work with this voltage) and take a signal from the UA-5's RCA outputs.
This is the meeter i'm looking at: http://www.canakit.com/Default.asp?Contents=/Include/Template/MenuCat.asp&Main=http://www.canakit.com/Contents/Items/CK106.asp
It has cal pots on it, so it should be easy to setup and get it all dialed in.
Not looking to do anything but make it better, and I'll document the procedure w/plenty of pics and post it on my site.
:)
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Thanks for that !
Wouldn't the output level control affect it ? Or would you replace it with a fixed value
and split off before the control ?
Let us know if it plays.
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One thing that sucks about the UA5 -- put a power button on it that has one of those switch covers so that you can't shut it off on accident. I've had it happen to me a couple of times..
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is there an output level? I know there is an input level controll on the RCA ins...its been a while since iv'e head one in front of me. We'll see next week when it arrives.
I'll figure something out.
Originaly, i was thinking of just hacking the wire that goes to the level indicator on the front panel, and running it up through the top of the case to a new level controll, but i'm not sure how that would work as that single light just comes on at a given value and is not variable.
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so buy the hosa box and a coax splitter.
problem solved
Yeah, I've done that... I've tried the CO2 and now am testing the Hosa ODL...
I guess you miss my point. I want one box that does everything - so I only have to carry one thing. If I have this or that, I'll end up losing this or that... Or I run the risk of having loose connection due to more connections... Or a whole myriad of things...
Terry
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I've got several COAX splittes, and they all fit tight, work fine..and cost about $4. Actualy, I dont really know because I've been given all the ones I have.
I use them on my CO2 and it works like a charm.
My co2 broke, and will no longer pass the signal, just convert it. So it was the same thing as just a sole converter like the hosa.
I understand your point perfectly, but what you want only exists in the CO2 and as you know, it sucks. Your best bet is the hosa coax splitter on the hosa s/pdif converter.
or...
tell the patchers to take a hike.
:)
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is there an output level? I know there is an input level controll on the RCA ins...its been a while since iv'e head one in front of me. We'll see next week when it arrives.
I'll figure something out.
Originaly, i was thinking of just hacking the wire that goes to the level indicator on the front panel, and running it up through the top of the case to a new level controll, but i'm not sure how that would work as that single light just comes on at a given value and is not variable.
Yes, the output levels are controlled by the volume dial located next to the 'Monitor SW'.
Anyhow, real level meters would be so awesome to have!
edit: The volume dial essentially attenuates the signal... turned all the way to the right it delivers the same level as whats being output over the SPDIF/USB.
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I've got several COAX splittes, and they all fit tight, work fine..and cost about $4. Actualy, I dont really know because I've been given all the ones I have.
I use them on my CO2 and it works like a charm.
My co2 broke, and will no longer pass the signal, just convert it. So it was the same thing as just a sole converter like the hosa.
I understand your point perfectly, but what you want only exists in the CO2 and as you know, it sucks. Your best bet is the hosa coax splitter on the hosa s/pdif converter.
or...
tell the patchers to take a hike.
:)
Well, I've been doing more thinking on it... And I think what I want is impossible or impractical... The UA5 is digitally bit-accurate... So any coax input would be hosed even befroe it got to an output...
Look like its time to get off my butt and test the Hosa ODL... I have a good feeling about it though, I think I bought it from Jason Sobel and he's used t to go Fostex D5>optical>Hosa>coax>Device before... I have one of his sources done this way...
Oh well, I thought I had a good idea, but shows what I know! Hahaha!
Terry
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I think this is what you meant to say, but the UA5 is NOT bit-accurate...so the coax input would be hosed before getting to an output. It's fine if you're using it as a pre-A/D because what you master is what you master, but as a pure sound card, it's useless for bit-accurate transfers.
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One thing that sucks about the UA5 -- put a power button on it that has one of those switch covers so that you can't shut it off on accident. I've had it happen to me a couple of times..
I replaced the power button on my UA-5 w/ a short piece of shrink wrap to prevent this very problem. I'll post some pics in the morning. I am deciding between this setup or modifying the stock button by taking about .75 cm off of the back so it sits on the UA-5 a little deeper. Or, if you want to go a different route one could add an inline switch on the power cable and just pull out the stock button.
Drew
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OK, hope these pics look OK. I still might cut the skrink wrap a little shorter so I can cover the hole w/ duct tape or something to make it a little less susceptible to beer or dirt getting in. Another option is to just pull the button off and leave it like that. You might still be able to reach the switch inside w/out an extension like I made.
Drew
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another
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another
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don't know if this got mentioned,....
Switch the power input to tip hot, ring not (tip +, ring -)
I am so glad that you mentioned this !
Just putting a batt pak together.
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is there an output level? I know there is an input level controll on the RCA ins...its been a while since iv'e head one in front of me. We'll see next week when it
The headphone volume knob controls the levels on all the analog outs. It is another one of the not so great things about the ua-5.
I still love it though.
JAson
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couldnt a single pole, double throw be inserted in the power button place???
i mean an "on" "off" button!!! ::)
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My "Ghetto" fix for the power button issue was to modify the cardboard box the UA-5 came in. It just so happens that the cardboard protector has a protective "lip" that covers the power button. I duct taped the hell out of the cardboard and added some extra "Pelican pluck foam" to it so it gave the unit a padded base. I have a velcro strap (that comes on celery from the grocery store) holding the UA-5 in place in case i need to take it out of the holder. I will try to post some pictures later. Not pretty but certainly works
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I'm looking for some kind of button cover, like something you'd find over a really important button at a nuclear launch site, something like that.
I'll draw a picture...
Just some cheap plastic cube type cover that I could super glue to the thing so I can open it, push the button, close it and forget about it. Even if I could find a small cheap box and just cut the botton off, that would be fine too. I'd prefer clear, but, whatever. Anyone know where to find something like this?
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I'm looking for some kind of button cover, like something you'd find over a really important button at a nuclear launch site, something like that.
How about a double key switch requring two (sober) members of the taper section, each with a unique key, to turn it on or off ? :D
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Make sure you match the spec'd polarity!
Second time i heard mention of the UA-5's polarity being different. I'm building a battery pack for mine from http://www.taperssection.com/reference/html/DIY_EdirolUA5Power/
but Radioshack's in canada for some reason don't carry the battery repair kits, so i bought some wire and nylon connector sets to make my own
(http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F004%5F010%5F000%5F000&product%5Fid=23%2D445)
I'm an electrical idiot, that's why i'm not doing anything to special, but following someone elses tried and tested directions. So could someone explain to me if when making these connectors or anything else, what am i looking for, and how do i test if the polarity is fine? The last thing I want to do is take the brand new UA-5 out of the box, plug in the battery and have a puff of smoke come out :(
Thanks,
Travis
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The red wire coming off the battery is positive (+). The black is negative (-). You want the outer ring of the DC plug to be positive (+), the inner ring to be negative (-).
Two ways to get the polarity correct:
[1] Check the voltage polarity of the DC plug while hooked up to the battery
Wire up the DC plug temporarily to the battery - no solder or crimps, just twist the wires together. Hook the battery up. Place the red tip of your voltmeter on the outer ring of the DC plug. Place the black tip of your voltmeter on the inner ring of the DC plug. If the voltmeter reading is positive, then you have the DC plug wired up for outer ring (+), inner ring (-), which is correct. If the voltmeter reads negative, then the opposite is true: the DC plug is wired for outer ring (-), inner ring (+) - in this case, switch the wires so the outer ring is (+), inner ring (-).
[2] Check the continuity of the wires leading to your DC plug
Set your multimeter to check continuity. Place one multimeter lead on the outer ring of the DC plug. Place the other on either of the wires leading to the DC plug. Whichever wire provides continuity is the wire you want (+). The other, obviously, (-).
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And the UA-5 is protected so it won't blow up anyways. Where in Canada are you - I have a line on some very inexpensive 3000mAh Nimh packs that are way better than Radio Shack Nicads
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Thanks, I'm interested in finding out about those 3000mAh. I just bought the 1000mAh Ni-cd w/ charger and 1600mAh ni-mh from radioshack this weekend. I'd need a different charger for the 3000mAh's won't I?
I'm in New Brunswick on contract until the end of April, then back in Ontario for a while.
Bit of a delay on the battery pack too, because these nylon connectors i picked up aren't the right type, and no one in town carries what I need (apparently the connectors on the battery packs are called Tamiya connectors, correct me if i'm wrong), so I had to order them. I just hope I ordered the right thing this time, since according to the fedex tracking, my rig is due to arrive tomorrow :)
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I'd return that Radio shack stuff if you can. Nicads just don't have enough capacity. We should update Jordan's page to reflect the reality of Nickel Metal Hydride batteries.
You don't need Tamiya connectors - doesn't fit the UA-5 anyways. That's just a convenient way of connecting the battery to the charger and anything will do, as long as they match. If you're not in a rush, I can probably do up a battery pack and charger for you with the right connectors for the UA-5. Less than $40 CDN for sure. PM me if you want.
No difference in the charger required - just takes longer to charge a 3000.
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pm sent, thanks