Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Recording Gear => Topic started by: Nick's Picks on November 02, 2007, 08:18:59 AM
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to surmise what we covered in 16 pages of the first section of MR1 discussion...
- it sounds really good
- tricky to power (needs a lot of current)
- some units have bugs, or better put, some people have had some issues w/theirs... but the majority seem to be solid rocks (mine is).
am I missing anything ?
Edit by BSkalinder: Pt I: http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,80529.0.html
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I asked a question in the last one that went unanswered - anyone run a SBD > MR-1 yet? Just wondering if there is a need for attenuation based on the input level of the MR-1.
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*future of playback systems seems also to be hot topic.
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what is an SBR sound board feed?
yes, you'll want to attenuate. either at or before the korg's input.
future of playback?
hopefully, we'll be mastering our own SACDs at some point. otherwise, we just have to settle for what *we think is superior* mastering yielding kick ass PCM recordings.
I"m still very happy with redbook. so DSD>PCM (redbook) is A-OK w/me.
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what is an SBR sound board feed?
yes, you'll want to attenuate. either at or before the korg's input.
Woops, meant SBD. Thanks Nick.
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re - dsd only do not convert to pcm.
they do not read, show no respect, dont listen.dont care.
dream at own expence.
g
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don't eat the brown acid
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Too late...
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I just finalized charging of external batteries and connected from USB out on battery to power input on the MR-1 and was able to record 7+ hours nonstop in DSD format. "Boy, I love this country..." and it wasn't so long ago I was flippin cassettes every 45 to hour to record live. I wonder what 25 more years will bring. Hope I'm still here... Joe Ray
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nice !
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I think I want one of these.
Suppose I should start paying attention to this thread.
:)
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i just joined the mr-1000 family.
maiden voyage tonight.
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nice Ed.
you'll never look back.
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Checking in...
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i just joined the mr-1000 family.
maiden voyage tonight.
I remember you looking at mine at Red Rocks thinking about it.
Way to go Ed!
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so tell us Ed...
how was the maiden voyage, and what do you think of DSD recording ?
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i do like dsd. i've listened to my mcfadden trio + bernie worrell a few times now.
same room, same pa, same mics and cables and same hanging location in the room. with a bonus of a fairly well behaved audience.
there is definately something to dsd, my first impression was there seemed to be extra clarity. i don't know how else to describe it other the sound of the recording was cleaner and more clear.
i have used the same rig for 3 years now mk-41 > vms 5 >v-3 and same rig 24 bit for 2 years. i am very familiar with how things sound. the new rig mk-41 > vms 5 > mr-1000 line in @ 1 bit 2.8MHz is a whole new world.
probably going to let busman do his magic in the very near future.
OK DSD PEOPLE
lets start trading dsd recordings. i'm assuming snail mail dvds will be the way to go to get started.
anyone want my mcfadden trio + bernie worrell recording let me know.
besides mountain biking and skiing is there a cooler hobby than live music archiving? i don't think so.
i love all you boys and girls!
thanks
ed
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you gots it!
I dont know if its all in my head or not, but I like it.
:)
i've got a years worth of DSD masters. lots of panic, ratdog, phil...and various jazz / funk shit.
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I've got quite a few myself. By happy to send them on.
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thanks guys!
i would love to get some trading going.
to get started i would like to hear some mule, phil or allmans.
all i have so far is the mcfadden trio w/ bernie worrell to trade.
thanks
ed
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I've got Phil from...10-10 this year.
abb from 8-3 / 8-8
Mule from 9-11
all 2007
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Just saw this. So are they selling the new Korg units as their playback system?
http://www.tweakaudio.com/EVS-2/Whats_New.html
SUPER DUPER ANNOUNCEMENT : We are very excited to offer a new audio format for the two channel enthusiast (the last and best 2 channel format?!?). We will be doing live two channel recordings using a custom modded battery powered double speed DSD recorder (5.6Mhz sampling frequency....twice that of SACD). We will be selling battery powered playback systems and will be distributing our recordings for playback on these modified machines.....these machines will be identical to the original recorder and the digital information will not be altered in any way......there will be no optical/laser digital path for purest sound. Imagine double speed DSD master tapes played on a battery powered modified player directly into your amps.....this will be better than any $100,000 turntable system.....The mics will be custom modified and hardwired directly into the recorder (no connectors). We will have more information as we go. I expect release of the modded recorder/playback system with software sometime in October. Music will be varied.....all types except symphonies.....which will be too expensive to record (at least for now). The fully modded playback system is targeted around $1500 and the software around $25 per release....absolutely no limiting, roll-off filters, copy protection, etc....you will get the pure raw double speed DSD data that was originally recorded....... We are talking super transparency and super dynamics.....This has never happened in the history of recorded music. No one besides the original recordists and a few friends have even had access to original master tapes. If you have ever heard even a copy of an analog master tape or have heard some DSD demos (like Ray Kimber's) then you have an idea of how incredible this will be.
Since this machine can also play all PCM formats up to 24/192 then the hard drive on the machine can also be loaded with up to 60 hours of CD quality music....or 24/96 DADs or DVD-A material....whatever......and having it played back on a hard drive based battery powered super modded machine may actually sound better than most any CD playback system.....And also you can record your own music on it and transfer records to double speed DSD or 24/192 for archiving and preserving your old vinyl and......even has a headphone amp.....salivating yet?!? stay tuned!!!
We are also going to make one off CDs, DVDs (at 24/96) and DVDAs (24/192) available of all the recordings. Some people will not want to buy the hard drive master player but will still want to hear these incredible recordings on their players. We will be distributing a few hundred free samplers of the first recordings on CDR and DVD in a few months. Email me if you want one. You can also make copies of this initial sampler for your friends and people in your audio clubs, etc
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With much thanks for nearly a month MR-1 deck loan from TS member gmm6797 the Technical MR-1 Review 'rough cut' edition is ready for first viewing.
PLEASE BE KIND as not everything is finished after nearly 6 days working on it, all links on the page are not yet correct, and I have some useful stuff still to add. But hope to get most of this done next day or two so maybe give it a look and check back in a few days for more finished version with corrections (some from TS member suggestions?).
MR-1 TECH REVIEW AT: www.sonicstudios.com/mr-1revw.htm (http://www.sonicstudios.com/mr-1revw.htm)
What you should find most interesting is full disclosure of MR-1 input gain settings in chart form, how MR-1 gain set works, MIC/LINE input signal limits, and balanced/unbalanced input noise plots with/without external preamplifiers.
As always, corrections and suggestions welcome.
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awsome data guysonic.
many thanks
g
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How difficult is it to see and adjust the levels in stealth conditions?
My eyes are not what they used to be . . I have difficulty with my R-09.
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How difficult is it to see and adjust the levels in stealth conditions?
My eyes are not what they used to be . . I have difficulty with my R-09.
IMHO, easy, especially if you lock both channels to change at the same time
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meters on m1 are awsome with good options on metering
-individual L/R gain while rec
-fully adjustable back light to nice and bright or slick dim
-meters are very easy in the dark,
-press hold button up while on hold and meter lights come on while rec for amount of time you have set to.
-mine comes on for 5 sec then off.
metering is just awsome on this unit, big and adjustable lighting.
it would be great to see you in the dsd realm master jedi jo
its where you belong.
good luck
g
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2.5 hours internal battery life will not cut it.
What are people using as a stealth solution?
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any 5v 1amp source.
lots of those "USB packs" seem to work. wouldn't be difficult.
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any 5v 1amp source.
lots of those "USB packs" seem to work. wouldn't be difficult.
I have just done some measurements. MR-1 is said to draw ~1/2 ampere at 5 volts = 2.5 (running) watts, measured ~.25 amps charge when off, NOT running.
Connected to charger draw turned on running goes to .45 amps so charging/running together seems the maximum; near KORG's spec power.
Charger drops out to then run on the internal battery at ~4.6 volts external applied charger voltage, but ICON on LCD shows still charging until external voltage drops down to 4.1 volt. At 4.1 input volts the BATT ICON shows the battery bars.
This means MR-1 hard connected to 4 NiMH cells will NOT work well to fully use NiMH cell's full capacity (to ~4.2 volts) before deck disconnects charging/running 4.6 volts and depending make/condition of NiMH cell, leaving as much as 50% external cell capacity untapped.
Now I'm waiting for the battery to fully charge so just deck running power is measured to know external battery power budget for just running the deck.
BATTERY SIZING 101:
If looking for a battery pack for running so many hours, and know the external pack internal battery size, do the math with battery voltage x ampere capacity = ~watt capacity of the external pack maximum.
Sometimes the selling retailer does not list the pack's internal battery voltage and ampere capacity, but try to find this going to the pack maker's web page technical description for best chance of finding this. Most of these external rechargeable packs use just ONE 3.7 volt lithium battery at some ampere capacity.
Actual available watts at 5 volts pack output will be (10%-25%) less than that, but you'll know at least ideal run time by dividing external pack watts by 2.5 deck watts. So be conservative in estimated running time from any pack until fully 'rundown' tested.
TIP: New packs need 2-3 use to ~60% remaining, recharges to fully wake up to maximum capacity, and then will last up to 2 years before losing 20% or more capacity/runtime ability.
So SUGGEST best to BUY NEW having 50% MORE capacity than expected to actually need.
PERSONAL EXAMPLE: My own BC-MT4 for Microtrack deck with USB output plug can be instead fitted with 4 x 1.7 mm locking barrel connector required by MR-1 power jack. I planned to do this if there's time. This external pack has ~40 watt capacity using 4 C alkaline cells that when divided by 2.5 watts needed by MR-1 = ~16 hours 'ideal' runtime. This pack 'recharges' in seconds anywhere with fresh cells inserted.
16 hours runtime is far more than most recordists need for doing an evening concert or session, and then returning home, but exactly what's very needed for those doing days of recording in remote locations where recharging external packs is not so practical, or simply wanting recording runtime reliability as moot issue.
AND, however convenient, reliable, and powerful, disposable flashlight cell type packs seem not environmentally kind!
This is less an issue with packs using much larger capacity D cells having 35-50 Hr recording time, and needing 'refreshing' every year or two(!) if used every month for recording one or two events.
What's interesting is most lithium rechargeable pack batteries fully work same 1-2 Yr. length of time, and have lost enough reliability/capacity for owners to be disposed for cheaply getting another! So in some situations, about the same burden on the environment using either battery type, or so I am thinking.
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i use a power runner pr2e for mine.
works like butta. will even charge the internal.
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I have found that the MR-1 pulls about 0.5 A on average but since it has an internal battery if the Charger kicks in it will start pulling more current.
So you need to make sure your power source can handle higher currents (I would say 1-1.5 A).
Also make sure the internal MR-1 battery is fully charged when ever you run an external battery.
I currently run a Tekkeon myPower 3400 and it works very well. I could probably get about 20 hours of use out of this setup but it is a bigger battery.
I was thinking about getting a Tekkeon myPower go and loading it up with 4 2500mA Rechargables. I would think you would get about 4-5 hours with this setup. http://www.tekkeon.com/site/products-mypowergo.php
I don't know if the myPower go would will work, as Tekkeon does not list the output voltage (only saying it should power most 5V devices) but it looks like it is very small and you can get them on eBay very cheap at around $20 (with no batteries). You also may need to get a USB to Sony PSP power cable to connect it to the MR-1 - but it does look like it may come with the right adapter plug and cable (albiet it looks like it may be polarity reversable so you would need to be careful with it).
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I have just done some measurements. MR-1 is said to draw ~1/2 ampere at 5 volts = 2.5 (running) watts, measured ~.25 amps charge when off, NOT running.
Connected to charger draw turned on running goes to .45 amps so charging/running together seems the maximum; near KORG's spec power.
Charger drops out to then run on the internal battery at ~4.6 volts external applied charger voltage, but ICON on LCD shows still charging until external voltage drops down to 4.1 volt. At 4.1 input volts the BATT ICON shows the battery bars.
This means MR-1 hard connected to 4 NiMH cells will NOT work well to fully use NiMH cell's full capacity (to ~4.2 volts) before deck disconnects charging/running 4.6 volts and depending make/condition of NiMH cell, leaving as much as 50% external cell capacity untapped.
Now I'm waiting for the battery to fully charge so just deck running power is measured to know external battery power budget for just running the deck.
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I've found this deck to be finicky w/its power requirements. Sounds like you are having the same discovery.
it likes a strong current...., that is for sure.
I tried doing all sorts of VR devices to run 7.2v or 6v sources w/a 5v, 1amp output. still wouldn't work.
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I've found this deck to be finicky w/its power requirements. Sounds like you are having the same discovery.
it likes a strong current...., that is for sure.
I tried doing all sorts of VR devices to run 7.2v or 6v sources w/a 5v, 1amp output. still wouldn't work.
I did see momentary power spike to at least 0.7 amps when first connecting external power with deck on, but his quickly settled to <.45 amps. Using 1 amp external regulator should work OK.
Suggest putting a large +330 mfd 'low impedance' type electrolytic capacitor maybe with +0.1 mfd ceramic/chip in parallel on the output of your regulator to soften momentary 'deck startup' current surges that might spike-drop the output voltage too low shutting down a deck having exhausted internal battery. Also if using long battery cable to the regulator, or low capacity batteries, consider shorter or larger cable, and using batteries large enough to better handle the current surges; maybe a large capacitor at the input of the regulator is also a good idea if still having problems.
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Before I got the Tekkeon battery I ran it with 3A Max VR and it has worked most of the time, but on one occasion the internal battery drained all the way down (with a fully charged external battery), and it would only turn on again when connected to the AC Adapter. It would try and turn on with the external battery but get stuck turning itself on and off repeatedly.
I tried turing the voltage up to about 5.5V and it still behaved the same way.
Also I have noticed theat with either the Tekkeon or the custom power source I built the Charging icon goes away after about 5 minutes and the battery bars appear, but they never go down even after 4-5 hours of use.
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MR-1 review is being updated new battery charge/use power draw that now takes the mystery out of what the MR-1 is doing. Basically the deck TURNS OFF charging during recording, using the external 5 volts for running the deck. See the below chart to be included in the revised page.
(http://www.sonicstudios.com/mr1batuse.gif)
Also realize the external supply is DISCONNECTED AT ~4.65 volts, even though the battery gage shows charging, it will not tell the truth until the external voltage further drops to 4.1 volts where internal battery then shows in the gage. If your external supply momentarily drops with MR-1 power surges (accessing the disc), then the deck will disconnect temporarily, or for good if still below 4.75 volts, but maybe the battery ICON doesn't let you know the bad news.
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Version #3 of the review with better detail/discussion on MR-1's powering issues now at: www.sonicstudios.com/mr-1revw.htm#power (http://www.sonicstudios.com/mr-1revw.htm#power)
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I`d love to get this unit for powering my new Korg..
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180177120573&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008
Does anyone know if the Korg has that USB type A plug or does it have a different USB plug??
Best,
Karsten
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I`d love to get this unit for powering my new Korg..
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180177120573&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008
Does anyone know if the Korg has that USB type A plug or does it have a different USB plug??
Best,
Karsten
Uses 4.0x1.7 mm 'locking' barrel (coaxial) type power plug, same as sony DAT decks.
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Uses 4.0x1.7 mm 'locking' barrel (coaxial) type power plug, same as sony DAT decks.
So you mean you have to go with the power plug, no chance to power the unit over USB??
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Uses 4.0x1.7 mm 'locking' barrel (coaxial) type power plug, same as sony DAT decks.
So you mean you have to go with the power plug, no chance to power the unit over USB??
It will NOT power over USB
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Revised MR-1 review version now 4 posted and likely nearly finished. :alert:
Found version 3 too technically obscure to be mostly unreadable (very sorry about that). :crazy:
:hmmm: So maybe time to give this a read to see if understandable, and now no need to be kind about feedback/suggestions. :flack:
:wink2: www.sonicstudios.com/mr-1revw.htm (http://www.sonicstudios.com/mr-1revw.htm) :yahoo:
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Nice write-up Guysonic! One thing I've noticed, and it may be a problem with my deck, is if the internal battery gets low, I start losing volume on one channel (I think the right channel?). I noticed in your write-up that the two channels have different self-noise levels - any theories as to why the channels should behave differently?
Thanks!
Mike
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Nice write-up Guysonic! One thing I've noticed, and it may be a problem with my deck, is if the internal battery gets low, I start losing volume on one channel (I think the right channel?). I noticed in your write-up that the two channels have different self-noise levels - any theories as to why the channels should behave differently?
Thanks!
Mike
Hard to tell cause without circuit schematic diagram to know how analog output (gain) is being handled. From working the deck, forgot to mention LINE and PHONES output BOTH controlled by same volume up/down buttons simultaneously.
So we commence pure speculation on what could be happening.
Volume control of these two linked outputs may determined by dual channel varying voltage, or more likely just one single mono channel voltage working into two or four voltage controlled LINE/PHONES amplifiers.
While same voltage seems to control both line/phones output, phones voltage output is almost half that of line output if I remember correctly, so maybe line and phones do have their own amplifier (two stereo amps) controlled by the same control voltage.
If this is the case, interesting to see if your LINE output also experiences unbalance with low battery voltage suggesting dual control voltages where one channel loses voltage regulation with low battery. If both line/phones affected then problem is likely with component(s) generating control voltage losing function. If just phones is losing balance, then likely problem with amplifier driving that output.
In any case, this should not be happening if deck continues to otherwise run OK (not shut down) at that lower battery level suggesting there is problem with sub-standard part, or less likely a design error.
It may be that MR-1 is not so different than R-09 in using just one master CODEC IC generating all or most analog input/output functions. If this the case, then quality control tests on this IC may be lacking low voltage regulation tests affecting critical performance.
However, all supply voltages inside MR-1 should be regulated to work until the deck shuts itself down, and in this case also likely the problem with a voltage regulator powering certain circuits is dropping regulation too soon, before the deck is designed to know shut down point.
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One question, as my first post here.
Does anybody know how the MR-1000's ( I know it is the MR-1 topic) XLR output is organized? Which is the purer: the RCA or XLR? I feel the XLR output is worse than the RCA, so is the internal structure is generally symmetrical and RCA output is generated by an opamp, or the XLR output is generated by an opamp from the internally asymmetrical construction?
Thanks for the help.
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One question, as my first post here.
Does anybody know how the MR-1000's ( I know it is the MR-1 topic) XLR output is organized? Which is the purer: the RCA or XLR? I feel the XLR output is worse than the RCA, so is the internal structure is generally symmetrical and RCA output is generated by an opamp, or the XLR output is generated by an opamp from the internally asymmetrical construction?
Thanks for the help.
Balanced output (XLR) is usually best if running long cables for having best chance of external noise immunity, and better condition of signal for maybe cancelling the effects of wire inductance/capacitance after traveling more than a few meters extension cord distance.
For shorter cable runs, unbalanced output actually has chance of lower distortion characteristic than balanced (one less amplifier handling the output signal) and is preferred by some purists for this reason.
If the balanced output is handled by a transformer, then usually one amplifier is driving the output, and the characteristics of the output transformer has most effect on signal quality, and usually not as 'Hi-Fidelity' as direct connected unbalanced output.
For these reasons I personally choose to design a special stereo preamplifier output using an older technique once used exclusively by an audiophile equipment company also doing live performance recording and having to run mic signals a hundred or more feet. They developed a special mic preamplifier located a few feet from the mics that drove unbalanced 50 or 75 ohm load-terminated video cable.
The output in this case is much higher power (overrides by several orders of magnitude all lower power radio/AC power noise signals), the cable is also 100% shielded adding even more noise immunity, AND terminated in its characteristic impedance so there is no chance of signal reflections (phase timing corruption) usual with all long lengths of signals traveling over unterminated cable, including commonly used unterminated balanced cable.
While it's easy to find 100% shielded, precision impedance video cable these days. The engineering design challenge with this is the audio performance of the video output amplifier, and is not so easy to make as this one company realized, but eventually succeeded as did I using a special class A amplifier design developed over 20 years ago for this purpose.
(http://www.sonicstudios.com/24njvswi.jpg) This an older photo, now available with miniXLR connector upgrade
This allows EXACTLY the same quality LINE level signal outputted from the preamplifier to arrive at the terminated end thousands of feet away unchanged or interfered with by noise; not even balanced or any other extension cable method can do this feat.
So best seems single amplifier output and ultimate is also driving unbalanced, but very low impedance terminated video/RF type cable.
While required by very few caring recordists working very long distance mic positions, those interested or just curious in knowing more about a very unique S-VHS video cable output preamp capable of driving over a thousand foot length of cable, and while running on ~20 hour life internal battery power go to: www.sonicstudios.com/access.htm#24njv (http://www.sonicstudios.com/access.htm#24njv)
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Guysonic,
thanks for the detailed answer, this solution is very interesting, I will dig deeper in it nd learnt a lot. However, did not answer my question, which is the purer output of the MR-1000: the XLR or the RCA?
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did not answer my question
guysonic is just trying to get you to drop cash into his business. he offers sound advice but it's usually linked to a product on his website so just be careful.
i'm not familiar with the mr1000 but i always opt for an xlr output(+4dbv) over an rca out (-10dbv) if whatever i'm connecting it to can accept a +4 line level without being overloaded. people equate xlr to "pro" and rca to "consumer" but there's more to it, technically.
if whatever you are connecting it to only accepts rca, then that's fine. i'm not sure what you are looking for in terms of "purity" so my apologies if i have not answered your question sufficiently. a google search can get you informed on +4 line level outputs vs. -10 line level outputs with all the technical information.
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Guysonic,
thanks for the detailed answer, this solution is very interesting, I will dig deeper in it nd learnt a lot. However, did not answer my question, which is the purer output of the MR-1000: the XLR or the RCA?
In most cases, the unbalanced RCA output is purer less 'processed' output, with the balanced output handled with a 'following' amplifier stage that adds its own low distortion characteristics.
So if running <1.5 meter output cable, the RCA might be best one to use for lowest distortion effects.
Most cases the difference between the two outputs will NOT be audible, but easily measured with specialized test gear.
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Hi guys,
I´m just wondering if someone has replaced the harddrive with a bigger one?
Thanks
F :)
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Hi guys,
I´m just wondering if someone has replaced the harddrive with a bigger one?
Thanks
F :)
I think people are most interested in replacing the HDD with a SSD. I'm waiting
for my warranty to expire and the price of 64Gb SSD's to come down in price to sane
levels before attempting this mod.
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Hi guys,
I´m just wondering if someone has replaced the harddrive with a bigger one?
Thanks
F :)
I think people are most interested in replacing the HDD with a SSD. I'm waiting
for my warranty to expire and the price of 64Gb SSD's to come down in price to sane
levels before attempting this mod.
A thread on SSD got started to discuss these devices into SD 700 series decks, but really applies to all portables with HD inside: http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,93076.msg1240252.html (http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,93076.msg1240252.html)
Got a chance to carry the MR-1 around last Sunday recording ambient and acoustic (mostly) harp, dulc., mandolin, guitar stringed, and concertina instruments with some vocal. Upon returning to start an editing session with the results, I found many instances where the MR-1 produced 'glitch' sounds with slightest motion, and seemed to start entirely new (seamless) files inside the folder if movement was severe enough. And I thought minidisc was sensitive to motions!
Obviously, the MR-1 is NOT for field recordists who need to be walking around while recording. I heard recorded glitches even when having the deck in my lap, and moved it ever so slightly.
I'm sure a different make of HD inside might be less sensitive to such movements, but the real cure for this is SSD replacement inside.
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What are the chances that this will fit the MR-1 input jacks?
http://www.audiogear.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?key=Adpt-2MmmMsf&preadd=action (http://www.audiogear.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?key=Adpt-2MmmMsf&preadd=action)
Lots of adapters
http://www.audiogear.com/Audio-Adapters-Miniplug.html (http://www.audiogear.com/Audio-Adapters-Miniplug.html)
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What are the chances that this will fit the MR-1 input jacks?
http://www.audiogear.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?key=Adpt-2MmmMsf&preadd=action (http://www.audiogear.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?key=Adpt-2MmmMsf&preadd=action)
Lots of adapters
http://www.audiogear.com/Audio-Adapters-Miniplug.html (http://www.audiogear.com/Audio-Adapters-Miniplug.html)
Don't know but
http://www.audiogear.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?key=AdptFxMsm&preadd=action
looks like would work
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Don't know but
http://www.audiogear.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?key=AdptFxMsm&preadd=action
looks like would work
I'm lookin to go from 3.5mm stereo (MMA-6000) to dual 3.5mm mono.
Just looking at my options.
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I'm lookin to go from 3.5mm stereo (MMA-6000) to dual 3.5mm mono.
Just looking at my options.
Sound Professionals has these. It is "SP-KORG-ADAPTER-CABLE"
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What are the chances that this will fit the MR-1 input jacks?
http://www.audiogear.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?key=Adpt-2MmmMsf&preadd=action (http://www.audiogear.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?key=Adpt-2MmmMsf&preadd=action)
imho chances are very high. I have one of these adapters (I got it directly in a plane) and it works perfectly.
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What are the chances that this will fit the MR-1 input jacks?
http://www.audiogear.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?key=Adpt-2MmmMsf&preadd=action (http://www.audiogear.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?key=Adpt-2MmmMsf&preadd=action)
imho chances are very high. I have one of these adapters (I got it directly in a plane) and it works perfectly.
Thanks for the info.
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I would like to record outdoor & indoor concerts, and ambient nature. My concerns are the ability to burn cd's that showcase the recording capability of the MR1, and the short battery life. I have been leaning toward the Sony PCM-D50, but am drawn to the ability to make 1-bit recordings. Does anyone have both machines? If so, which do you prefer and why? Thanks for your guidance.
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I would like to record outdoor & indoor concerts, and ambient nature. My concerns are the ability to burn cd's that showcase the recording capability of the MR1, and the short battery life. I have been leaning toward the Sony PCM-D50, but am drawn to the ability to make 1-bit recordings. Does anyone have both machines? If so, which do you prefer and why? Thanks for your guidance.
I've had chance to try both machines and would suggest the D50 as most compatible for your interests with easy powering, lower noise/more conventional minijack mic input, and immunity to physical movements that cause skips in MR-1.
Most all the recording quality is with your choice and usage of external mics, not much if anything is audibly superior with 1-bit recording ability, and 1-bit format has to be converted to normal PCM anyway. At least, this is my opinion at this time.
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Thanks guysonic, I was also looking at the DS 702 but figured for what I want to do something a bit smaller is better, and the 702 is a bit costly. Yet, I am always wanting the best sound quality so who knows...
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Ok here's the scoop, I still have not made it to an authorized repair shop to have my MR-1 fixed.
http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,80529.msg1233119.html#msg1233119
So I will be going to Langerado next week and the unit is functional except for the LCD, and I want to bring it as backup. What I need is an accurate flowchart on the menu structure. I remember some sightless member asking about the way the menu was layed out and whether it wrapped around, luckily it does not and I have been able to do some things, But what I would like to be able to do is set the record mode without hunting around for right settings. The manual does not provide a good detailed flowchart especially in this section. TIA
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Who wants to sell me there MR-1 ? ;)
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Who wants to sell me there MR-1 ? ;)
PM sent
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Hi guys,
Can someone say something about the boot time of the KORG MR 1? This is very important for me and if this behaves like the M-Audio microtrack, a absolutely no go for me.
Thanks in advance
Cheers
RTD
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Hi guys,
Can someone say something about the boot time of the KORG MR 1? This is very important for me and if this behaves like the M-Audio microtrack, a absolutely no go for me.
Thanks in advance
Cheers
RTD
Takes about 5 seconds to go from off to record-ready.
Jeff
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Thanks Jeff,
And hows the real world battery life?
rtd :)
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Thanks Jeff,
And hows the real world battery life?
rtd :)
Not great. For anything over 1 1/2 hours I'd use external power.
Jeff
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It looks like its gettin quiet around the MR1.
Any reports after heavy using for month? How is your (all) opinion about the unit?
Thanks
rtd ^-^
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I own my 2nd one now. never a single problem. wonderful recordings.
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I own my 2nd one now. never a single problem. wonderful recordings.
cool. Any other users?
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I'm really happy with Mr. MR-1. You can make excellent recordings, it's small, flexible in terms of recording formats and I never had a single problem. The battery issue is not a big problem if you add an external one to your rig.
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Love my MR-1! Made 50 recordings with mine so far.
No issues.
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Has anyone tried sticking a solid state drive in one of these yet? That should improve the run time on the stock battery and reduce heat quite a bit. I remember some talk of doing that last year.
Later,
pjdavep
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Has anyone tried sticking a solid state drive in one of these yet? That should improve the run time on the stock battery and reduce heat quite a bit. I remember some talk of doing that last year.
Later,
pjdavep
i´m interested still in this too.;-)
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It may be the current batch of SSD devices are too slow for recording DSD data streams.
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I tried putting a CF card into the MR-1 last night.
Didn't work. I turned it on, and it locked up at the start up screen. I couldn't turn it off, so I had to disassemble it and hot plug back in the hard drive. From there, it booted up normally.
The details:
The hard drive in the MR-1 is a Hitachi ZIF drive in a plastic case for shock protection. There is a small hole for the ZIF connector, so you can easily detach it.
I ordered a ZIF > CF card adapter from eBay, and used a cheap pqi 2 GB card. I copied over the files from the MR-1 onto the CF card.
Taking apart the MR-1 is pretty easy. It is held together by 4 screws. The sides come off and then the back panel comes off easily. If you are going to attempt this, I suggest to tape the switches on the top to the back panel. These are not secured in, and will fall on the floor. They are easy to place back, but taping it is simpler.
The battery on mine isn't bolted in, unless the connector is soldered. The connector is plugged into one of the logic boards and a gentle tug didn't unplug it. I would have to unscrew the logic boards to see if the connector is permanently soldered on.
I'm open to suggestions! If someone knows of an easy way to shut down the MR-1, let me know.
Ted
update: 1. Found the reset switch! It is a small hole on the side, and powers down when you insert a push-pin.
2. I cloned the MR-1 hard drive using Acronis True-Image. The CF card now looks and acts like an HD when you mount it on a PC or Mac, but still no luck when I install it in the MR-1. Will keep trying!
Has anyone tried sticking a solid state drive in one of these yet? That should improve the run time on the stock battery and reduce heat quite a bit. I remember some talk of doing that last year.
Later,
pjdavep
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+T for effort.
:)
I've been wanting to do the same to mine, and have all the equipment. looks as though the deck "knows" the drive, and wont work w/o.
hmmm.....
I wonder if we could get a friendly tech from Korg to give us some inside info.
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cool, thanks for the effort guys. Would try it too, but mine is still on waranty :wink2:
Keep it goin
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I can think of no reason this shouldn't be doable. I was interested in it for a while, but I think it won't be too long before there's a CF or SD MR-2 announced, so I'm just holding on everything.
In the past I've had issues with cheap adapters of this sort. can't really find out without spending some $$ on a pricey one. same goes for the CF card.
is there more than one zif connector standard? I seem to remember something like this...the connector is physically the same but communication happens a little differently. I may be completely off.
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There were originally problems with CF modding a Rockboxed iRiver H120, and it was dependent on the brand of CF card you used. Rockbox has been updated to fix this problem I believe, and is supposed to be compatible with more brands of CF cards. Apparently some do not adhere to the IDE standard.
I'm supposed to be getting a Lexar 16 GB CF card ($70 - $70 rebate = $0 from Beach Camera deal), so I will try that if it ever comes -- my order has been "In Process" for the last week or so.
If someone can loan me another name brand, like SanDisk or Ridata, I'll be happy to try it out.
With the adapter, there are Toshiba and Hitachi ZIF connectors. I'm not sure if they are incompatible. The adapter shipped with two types of cables. One was flexible, had pins on one side. The other was stiff, and had pins on both sides. The connector in the MR-1 matched the first, so I went with that. I'll try to look up more info on that...
I can think of no reason this shouldn't be doable. I was interested in it for a while, but I think it won't be too long before there's a CF or SD MR-2 announced, so I'm just holding on everything.
In the past I've had issues with cheap adapters of this sort. can't really find out without spending some $$ on a pricey one. same goes for the CF card.
is there more than one zif connector standard? I seem to remember something like this...the connector is physically the same but communication happens a little differently. I may be completely off.
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I used the a-data speedy 16GB card when I had a 702 at 24/96 w/o issues and they are pretty cheap at about $30.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211170 - 16GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211244 - 32GB
I know it's a stretch but these cards work well and are cheap. Unfortunately do not have one any more.
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I actually went a bought a 16 GB Adata from Fry's because it was reported to be one of the few that worked with the H120 in the beginning, but after the 4 GB Lexar deal, I returned it, unopened. At Fry's, the card is $70 and that seemed like a lot for an experiment (I could have returned it opened, but I hate doing that).
The Lexar is "Shipped" so it should be here next week. I will let you guys know.
If anyone can dig up info on the differences between the Toshiba and Hitachi ZIF connectors, that may help too.
I used the a-data speedy 16GB card when I had a 702 at 24/96 w/o issues and they are pretty cheap at about $30.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211170 - 16GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211244 - 32GB
I know it's a stretch but these cards work well and are cheap. Unfortunately do not have one any more.
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what was the make/model # of the HD you took out? googling that should get you info on the connector interface.
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It was definitely a Hitachi. I don't recall the model off hand, but I googled it at the time to get install info.
what was the make/model # of the HD you took out? googling that should get you info on the connector interface.
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I can think of no reason this shouldn't be doable. I was interested in it for a while, but I think it won't be too long before there's a CF or SD MR-2 announced, so I'm just holding on everything.
could be true soon
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MR1/
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Yeah, I hope it is soon that a some manner of solid state HD or removable media is introduced. I'd really like to buy one of these and all my objections to the design would be solved by doing this. If it's introduced for this Xmas season I will,.. but if not, I'll probably go for a D-50 or R09hd.
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Any updates on the CF mod? I'm very curious. :)
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No luck so far. I tried the "name-brand" CF (Lexar Professional UDMA 4 GB), but still could get past the splash screen.
Probably have to wait for the 1.8" SSD drives to become cheap before I make my next attempt....
Any updates on the CF mod? I'm very curious. :)
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Well SSD's are starting to get cheaper - 2.5" 32GB SSD is at Fry's for $70 and it was down to $60 a few weeks back - I would bet in the next year costs will drop drastically!
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Tagging this thread for interest.
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I'm still a fan.
:)
- not one recording error w/the deck in a year of use
- not a single battery failure (when knowing im' using it for less than 2 hours)
- still sounds really good to my ears.
:)
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DSD Rocks!!!!!!
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- not one recording error w/the deck in a year of use
- not a single battery failure (when knowing im' using it for less than 2 hours)
- still sounds really good to my ears.
My experience is also very positive. Though my internal battery is now only good for around 100 minutes, I get around 6 hours by using the included 4 AA battery case (using Sanyo 2000 mAh Eneloops).
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Well SSD's are starting to get cheaper - 2.5" 32GB SSD is at Fry's for $70 and it was down to $60 a few weeks back - I would bet in the next year costs will drop drastically!
Why not just drop in a 32GB CF card instead?
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I'm still a fan.
:)
- not one recording error w/the deck in a year of use
- not a single battery failure (when knowing im' using it for less than 2 hours)
- still sounds really good to my ears.
:)
Are you going mic in or using a pre?
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using a preamp
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I've always used an external preamp as well. Guysonic has tested the deck & reported that if you need to set mic or line in record level below -10 dB in order to keep meters from hitting 0 db, your recording will clip anyway. Also edtyre has posted here that when you need to set the record level above +6 or +7 dB, the internal preamp starts to get noisy. I've always gone line in (with record level at -6, which I read somewhere is supposed to be unity gain, but don't ask me why it isn't 0 dB) with an external pre (usually a ST-9100) and gotten excellent results.
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I run somewhere between 0db and -7db. Usually around -5db. but its moot as my Apogee MMP has an output attenuator. Nice feature...as I can push the preamp for added flavor, but not smoke the decks inputs.
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Well SSD's are starting to get cheaper - 2.5" 32GB SSD is at Fry's for $70 and it was down to $60 a few weeks back - I would bet in the next year costs will drop drastically!
Why not just drop in a 32GB CF card instead?
I am just bringning this up as SSD's are almost getting to the same price point as CF. Meaning at some point it may cost less to get an SSD then to get a CF and adapter. Also an SSD may have a greater chance of compatibility. As someone pointed earlier in the thread they could not get a CF card to work.
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As someone pointed earlier in the thread they could not get a CF card to work.
I see, I must have missed that.
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So any daredevils got it working with a SSD??
Well SSD's are starting to get cheaper - 2.5" 32GB SSD is at Fry's for $70 and it was down to $60 a few weeks back - I would bet in the next year costs will drop drastically!
Why not just drop in a 32GB CF card instead?
I am just bringning this up as SSD's are almost getting to the same price point as CF. Meaning at some point it may cost less to get an SSD then to get a CF and adapter. Also an SSD may have a greater chance of compatibility. As someone pointed earlier in the thread they could not get a CF card to work.
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Well after recording my first concert with the MR-1, I ran into battery problems, despite being amply forewarned from these threads.
I read the threads on plugging in an external battery. I have the free battery pack that Korg gives for it, but I also have a Li-Ion USB battery pack that I bought as a backup power for my iPod. I have the APC UPB10 (http://www.amazon.com/APC-UPB10-Universal-Battery-10WH/dp/B000GBN42E), but any USB battery pack should work.
From the info in this thread, I reasoned that a usb charging cable for the Sony PSP would connect the battery pack to the MR-1:
http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,87354.0/all.html
but I didn't think it would be cost effective to get all the parts from Radio Shack or Fry's to make a USB -> Power plug cable.
Searching on eBay, the cables were cheap, but the shipping was outrageous.
I found this Y-cable from DealExtreme that does exactly what I want, for a grand total of $2.40 (free shipping).
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8693
Not only that, but you can plug in both the USB and power on the MR-1, then to the USB on your computer, and both charge the battery and mount the drive.
Plugging it into the battery pack, it gives the "charging" icon, so I assume it is working.
The only problem with DealExtreme is that it takes forever for them to ship the item. I ordered it on Jan 23, and only received it today (Feb. 12). They are based in China, but I have had no problems with them. I've ordered 3-4 things from them without a problem, only long wait times.
Anyway, hope that helps anyone looking to power the MR-1 with an external USB battery pack, or wanting to charge+mount the device with just one cable.
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You cannot charge the Korg MR-1 via USB.
The stock external battery pack will give you 4+ hours
plus the 2 hours from the internal. If you need more than
6 hours, carry more AA's.
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You cannot charge the Korg MR-1 via USB.
You are absolutely correct. However, that wasn't the purpose of my post! From the thread on using an external battery with the MR-1, the unit requires power that turns out to be compatible with USB power (5V, 800-500mA). The main problem is that you need some way to connect the USB source to the DC-in jack.
While it is possible to hack together a USB cable and a plug, the cable that I linked is a low-cost solution that doesn't require any cutting and soldering. In addition, it is a Y-cable, with the other end terminating in a mini-usb - this carries the data.
So the main benefit of this cable is that you can plug one end into your computer, and then the other two plugs into your MR-1. Now you can mount the drive and charge the unit -- no AC adapter required (which is almost the size of the MR-1).
The second benefit is that you can plug the MR-1 to an external Li-Ion battery pack. I just happened to have one, and I find it more convenient than the Korg external battery pack. I will still pack along both.
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Hmm, I sent in my form for the free external battery pack from Korg, but never got it.
Is there another way?
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any 5v source. Ipod external batteries work well.
I've got a tiny little one that has 5v/6v/7.2v output seletable via a switch. Its about 1/2 the size of a deck of cards and at 5v outputs 2850mAh.
In a pinch, I can use it to power my Apogee MMP on the 6v setting (2500mAh). Even has a flashlight built in.
I'm searching for it, but it has no brand name. If I can find it, i'll post it. its the best battery I've ever had, bar none.
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I can't find it..., but this would work (w/a slight modification to the USB cable, replacing w/an M tip)
http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Battery-Pack-Lithium-ion-Rechargeable/dp/B000N63AC6
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went through all of the pages in this thread (and for pt 1) and didn't see any mention of it, so guessing not. But here it goes anyway, does the MR-1 play flac files (like my iRiver does) ?
This does loook like a nifty little unit though, def keeping my eyes open for one of these......
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You cannot charge the Korg MR-1 via USB.
Is this really right? How come the charge icon comes on when I plug in a USB battery?
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Back to the SSD project for the MR1.
http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~bigsmile/rail/mr1-swap.htm
Looks that someone had done it successfully
Maybe someone can translate this a bit.
cheers
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http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url?doit=done&tt=url&intl=1&fr=bf-home&trurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww5a.biglobe.ne.jp%2F~bigsmile%2Frail%2Fmr1-swap.htm&lp=ja_en&btnTrUrl=Translate
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went through all of the pages in this thread (and for pt 1) and didn't see any mention of it, so guessing not. But here it goes anyway, does the MR-1 play flac files (like my iRiver does) ?
This does loook like a nifty little unit though, def keeping my eyes open for one of these......
Unfortunately not at this time
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I bought my MR-1 in 2007, so I didn't qualify for the free battery pack offer from Korg. But you can order it online from B&H Photo at
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/543019-REG/Korg_BATPACKMR1_4_AA_External_Battery_Pack.html
$15 plus shipping. There is a 3 week wait though as B&H doesn't carry them in stock. It's strange that you can buy the battery pack from B&H but not directly from Korg.
I just received my external battery pack from B&H yesterday and have been running a test recording this morning with the MR-1 using the battery pack and 4 fully-charged UniRoss Hybrio NiMH 2100 mAh hybrid AA rechargeable batteries. It's been recording for 4 hours now and still drawing power from the battery pack. Impressive! More juice than I'll probably ever need. I had been using a small external Lithium-Ion rechargeable battery pack and not too happy with it. The MR-1 would frequently cut off the external Li-ion pack and start drawing power from the internal battery less than an hour into the recording even though the battery pack was fully charged. I missed the entire encore of a Cure concert last year because the MR-1 had cut off power from the battery pack and drained all the power from its internal battery.
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The MR-1 would frequently cut off the external Li-ion pack and start drawing power from the internal battery less than an hour into the recording even though the battery pack was fully charged. I missed the entire encore of a Cure concert last year because the MR-1 had cut off power from the battery pack and drained all the power from its internal battery.
This is EXACTLY why i got rid of mine, lost parts of three shows and called it quits.
Used the Korg 4 AA external battery pack for the last show i recorded (MR-1) and it worked fine.
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what tip where you guys using? I have the radioshack adaptaplug B, and have not had one problem yet. Im running a VR(7-18V in - 9v out and 5v out) i am running two DVD batteries (9v 5400mah) in parallel in. 5v out of the vr box with adaptaplug B into the korg. This is in my gear bag, so not a stealth situation, not a lot of movement in there either.
im just wondering if it could have been your li bat and tip?
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Hi BJ,
The other thing with Li-Ion batteries, if this is one of those USB packs, I think you need a high current out of the pack. In guysonic's tests, he showed that the draw is normally under 500 mA, but can sometimes spike to 800 mA. If I understood correctly what he wrote, if the battery doesn't output enough current, the MR-1 will switch to the internal battery.
desertsky, I tried using rechargables but they didn't work. I thought that because the total voltage of rechargables is < 5V (ie., 4 x 1.2V = 4.8V), that it won't properly power the MR-1? Am I off, or is there something about these "hybrid" batteries that you are using?
Ted
what tip where you guys using? I have the radioshack adaptaplug B, and have not had one problem yet. Im running a VR(7-18V in - 9v out and 5v out) i am running two DVD batteries (9v 5400mah) in parallel in. 5v out of the vr box with adaptaplug B into the korg. This is in my gear bag, so not a stealth situation, not a lot of movement in there either.
im just wondering if it could have been your li bat and tip?
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desertsky, I tried using rechargables but they didn't work. I thought that because the total voltage of rechargables is < 5V (ie., 4 x 1.2V = 4.8V), that it won't properly power the MR-1? Am I off, or is there something about these "hybrid" batteries that you are using?
If you go to fmaderjr's post in this thread back on January 26th, he says he was also able to get about 6 hours total recording time using the external AA pack w/ Sanyo Eneloop 2000 mAh AA batteries. The Sanyo Eneloops are the same hybrid low self-discharge NiMH type rechargeables as the Hybrio's I tested. So there must be something about these newer batteries.
Found some info about the hybrid batteries on Wikipedia. The article say voltage with the hybrids is more stable than other traditional NiMH rechargeables. That could explain why they seem to work well with the MR-1. There certainly doesn't seem to be an issue with the total voltage being 4.8V.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low_self-discharge_NiMH_battery
It is generally claimed that low self-discharge NiMH batteries retain 90% of their charge after six months, 85% after a year and 70% after two years, when stored at 20 °C (68 °F).
Low self-discharge NiMH batteries typically have a significantly lower internal resistance than traditional NiMH batteries. This has a number of desirable effects especially for high-drain applications:
- Voltage is more stable (less load- and capacity-dependent). This can have a beneficial effect on runtime in electronic devices, which typically have a cut-off voltage per battery that is not much lower than NiMH's nominal voltage. (However, this can also cause some devices with battery status indicators to overestimate the remaining capacity of a nearly drained cell.)
- Reduced heat buildup when the battery is quickly charged or discharged
- Higher efficiency
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Sorry if this was discussed previously but I couldn't really find a clear answer.
What are people doing as far as setting levels on the MR-1 in low profile situations? It seems like accessing the gain through the menu function could be difficult. Is it?
I would be running line in.
Thanks for the help!
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Anyone here ever get the "hard drive busy" error message? I got this the other night. Had to reset and reboot, then it went away.
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Sorry if this was discussed previously but I couldn't really find a clear answer.
What are people doing as far as setting levels on the MR-1 in low profile situations? It seems like accessing the gain through the menu function could be difficult. Is it?
I would be running line in.
Thanks for the help!
Make sure the firmware is up to date. Been so long a time from handling a loaned MR-1 I cannot recall enough to suggest settings.
However, technical review of MR-1 on my site may prove helpful with knowing deck adjustment details and this found at: www.sonicstudios.com/mr-1revw.htm (http://www.sonicstudios.com/mr-1revw.htm)
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OK, I know this isn't supposed to work, but it does....
So I was using my MR-1 as a hard drive, transporting some files from my home computer to my work computer this morning. I plugged in the MR-1 via USB, and started the transfer, then had to run off to a meeting. Before I get back to my office, I start socializing and go for lunch.
I get back, and my MR-1 is still on. I forgot about it, and I was surprised that the battery had lasted so long.
So I unmount it, and unplug the USB cable, and it automatically shuts down.
I turn it on again, and then I get a "Battery Empty! Shut Down..."
I plug back the USB cable, and it fires up just fine, and mounts onto the computer as a hard drive.
With the MR-1 plugged via the USB cable, I unmount, exit USB mode, and return to the recording screen, and the battery charge icon is on!!
So far, the battery hasn't been charged via the USB cable (it's been plugged for hours and it still can't turn on if I disconnect the USB), but as long as it is connected with a USB cable, it powers just fine.
My question is: Is the DC power jack only to charge the battery, and can the unit be powered (but not charged) via USB?
Very strange....
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Anyone know the answer to this:
http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,123411.0.html
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I'm waiting for an updated MR1, MR2??? Something with longer battery life and maybe SD memory instead of a hard drive that is vulnerable to shock/handling.
Has anybody heard rumors of a new unit yet?
I love my R-09HR, but the possibility of DSD or double-DSD in my pocket is so aluring!
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http://www.powerstream.com/
Dude go to the above linked site buy that pack and NEVER worry about battery again!!!!
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Several people reporting success with CF in the MR-1:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f15/korg-mr-1-can-used-portable-player-425849/index10.html
They are using different CF's than I did, so maybe that is the secret for success. I'll try to get a 133x Transcend and report back.
That would be nice if it does work, because capacities are pretty high and affordable for CFs these days.
http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url?doit=done&tt=url&intl=1&fr=bf-home&trurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww5a.biglobe.ne.jp%2F~bigsmile%2Frail%2Fmr1-swap.htm&lp=ja_en&btnTrUrl=Translate
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http://www.powerstream.com/
Dude go to the above linked site buy that pack and NEVER worry about battery again!!!!
This is a great battery. I have it under the tekkeon label. Check here: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tekkeon-MP3450-External-Battery-for-Laptop-Notebook_W0QQitemZ120446001264QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c0b242070&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
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OK, so after doing some hunting around and PM'ing people who have had success with the CF mod, the issues with my attempts could be either the adapter and or card I am using.
1. The CF card is supposed to support "Fixed Disk Mode" but I can't find any info on the cards that I used on whether they do support it or not. The Transcend I ordered supports it, so I will find out then.
2. The adapter I used was a cheapo one, and some users have reported that it doesn't work when they try to use it to replace their iPod HDD. I ordered a new one that others have reported success, and hopefully that will come in the next couple of weeks.
Will report back on my results! I'm hopeful that this will work!
Several people reporting success with CF in the MR-1:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f15/korg-mr-1-can-used-portable-player-425849/index10.html
They are using different CF's than I did, so maybe that is the secret for success. I'll try to get a 133x Transcend and report back.
That would be nice if it does work, because capacities are pretty high and affordable for CFs these days.
http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url?doit=done&tt=url&intl=1&fr=bf-home&trurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww5a.biglobe.ne.jp%2F~bigsmile%2Frail%2Fmr1-swap.htm&lp=ja_en&btnTrUrl=Translate
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Well after others had success using an SSD, I tried out the RunCore 32 GB SSD.
I had limited success. It hung at various points when trying to access the drive:
1. It will not format; it will attempt to do so, but it takes forever.
2. It hangs on Shutdown.
3. It hangs on Recording.
The SSD drive was blank when I bought it, and I couldn't format it by using the MR-1 (see problem #1). I was able to use the MR-1/SSD as a USB drive, so I could format it as a FAT32 drive by hooking it up to my computer. I then cloned my MR-1 drive using Acronis True Image, then restored the image onto the SSD. It was able boot up, then go to the recording screen.
Most functions were normal, such as browsing through the library and playback, however, pushing the Record button would hang the unit, and I had to push reset.
The other thing is that the SSD got quite warm during operation. It wasn't too hot to touch, but definitely warm.
Since I mainly use it to record concerts, so I guess I won't be using the SSD :'(
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Success!!!
I tried Mtron 16 GB SSD, as this fellow used in his post:
http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url?doit=done&tt=url&intl=1&fr=bf-home&trurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww5a.biglobe.ne.jp%2F~bigsmile%2Frail%2Fmr1-swap.htm&lp=ja_en&btnTrUrl=Translate
The main difference that I could see is that the R/W speeds for the Mtron are on par with the MR-1's Hitachi HDD (100 MB/s), whereas the RunCore is slower, at 60 MB/s. I didn't think it would make a difference because the PATA interface caps the bandwidth, but I was completely out of ideas.
I just installed it, formatted it in the MR-1 and it is absolutely seamless. I can record, playback, etc...
Edit: The SSD doesn't improve the battery life. I charged the battery all day, then last night, I set it to record line-in from my computer where I looped a concert. I recorded a DFF file, and it lasted 2.5 h!
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Why not use a CF card instead of a SSD drive?
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I'll be trying that. I have an ZIF > CF adapter that doesn't work with the MR-1. Others are using a different adapter, which I have ordered from DealExtreme, and should be here in the next week or so.
Will report back!
Why not use a CF card instead of a SSD drive?
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Several people reporting success with CF in the MR-1:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f15/korg-mr-1-can-used-portable-player-425849/index10.html
They are using different CF's than I did, so maybe that is the secret for success. I'll try to get a 133x Transcend and report back.
That would be nice if it does work, because capacities are pretty high and affordable for CFs these days.
Thanks for the link - sounds promising - also nice to see people are having success with 80GB HDD's in the MR-1 as well - That would allow you to record DSD for Festivals - with about a 28 hour record time!
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Success with the CF-mod!!
It turns out that the ZIF > CF adapter I used previously was crap! After success reported on head-fi.org, I tracked down the correct adapter and installed it. The price is about $20 on eBay, but if you are patient, you can get it from DealExtreme in Hong Kong for $6.30. It takes about 2-3 weeks:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11814
I tested it with a 133x 16 GB Transcend, and also an old PQI 2 GB card. Both worked!
Will do a battery test.
I'll be trying that. I have an ZIF > CF adapter that doesn't work with the MR-1. Others are using a different adapter, which I have ordered from DealExtreme, and should be here in the next week or so.
Will report back!
Why not use a CF card instead of a SSD drive?
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The good news is that the CF mod almost doubles the battery life. I managed to record nearly 5 hr.
The bad news is that during the extended recording, there is a problem writing the DSD files. When recording a DFF file, the recording is subdivided into multiple files of approximately 1 GB each (approx 25 min), accompanied by a PROJ file which Audiogate uses to merge the files.
To test the runtime of the battery, I set it to record audio from my computer, and let it go till the battery ran out. On this 4+ hr recording, about half of the files were corrupted, and the PROJ file was not usable.
I repeated a long recording, this time with the unit plugged into an AC adapter, and let it go for 3 hr, which is a reasonable time for a fairly long concert. When I stopped the recording, it gave me a "Disk Error" and again, half the files were corrupted, and the PROJ file couldn't be loaded by Audiogate.
:(
I suspect the problem is that the CF card doesn't write the DSD stream fast enough. The 133x Transcend card I am using is rated at 21.5MB/sec whereas the HDD and SSD write at 100 MB/sec.
So the conclusion is that as a 1-bit recorder, the CF card doesn't pass the test, so I probably won't use it in the field.
Success with the CF-mod!!
It turns out that the ZIF > CF adapter I used previously was crap! After success reported on head-fi.org, I tracked down the correct adapter and installed it. The price is about $20 on eBay, but if you are patient, you can get it from DealExtreme in Hong Kong for $6.30. It takes about 2-3 weeks:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11814
I tested it with a 133x 16 GB Transcend, and also an old PQI 2 GB card. Both worked!
Will do a battery test.
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No sweat, just get a 650X CF card.
Oh....
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I suspect the problem is that the CF card doesn't write the DSD stream fast enough. The 133x Transcend card I am using is rated at 21.5MB/sec whereas the HDD and SSD write at 100 MB/sec.
So the conclusion is that as a 1-bit recorder, the CF card doesn't pass the test, so I probably won't use it in the field.
Bummer....but I was thinking that a CF card wouldn't be able to write fast enough.
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I suspect the problem is that the CF card doesn't write the DSD stream fast enough. The 133x Transcend card I am using is rated at 21.5MB/sec whereas the HDD and SSD write at 100 MB/sec.
Did you format the CF card in the MR-1 before you ran the test? Random write performance of CF cards is usually very poor (much lower than the 21.5MB/sec quoted for sequental writes) - formating should defragment the volume and keep the writes sequental. You can never just erase files or the volume will get fragmented.
I ran into these problems with CF fragmentation on a Sound Devices 702. As long as a I formated the CF card at the beginning of each recording session I never had speed problems (even at 24/96Khz on a much slower card (rated at about 6.5 MB/sec write speed)).
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my understanding is that cf cards cannot write the data fast enough for dsd. that is why korg used hard drives instead.
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H2O --
Yep -- before each test, I cleared the CF card by formatting it within the MR-1.
I was thinking of testing whether the CF card is fast enough to reliably record at 24-bit/192Hz, 24/96, etc., or to test just how long of a recording the CF card can make. But at this point it's just out of curiosity. I bought the MR-1 to make 1-bit recordings.
Colin and deadheaded --
I kind of suspected that the CF card was too slow (guysonic brought that up in this thread), but after the success of using the CF-mod for playback (see the head-fi.org thread), my curiosity was driving me crazy to find out for myself.
At least I found out the answer. I am going to do the same tests with the SSD drive. I believe the 2.5 h recording I previously made was intact, but I don't think I tried reloading it into Audiogate. I will probably stick with the SSD, even though the battery life was not dramatically improved. Because other people have had problems with the HDD and possible write errors when moving around, the SSD will at least safeguard against that reported problem.
I suspect the problem is that the CF card doesn't write the DSD stream fast enough. The 133x Transcend card I am using is rated at 21.5MB/sec whereas the HDD and SSD write at 100 MB/sec.
Did you format the CF card in the MR-1 before you ran the test? Random write performance of CF cards is usually very poor (much lower than the 21.5MB/sec quoted for sequental writes) - formating should defragment the volume and keep the writes sequental. You can never just erase files or the volume will get fragmented.
I ran into these problems with CF fragmentation on a Sound Devices 702. As long as a I formated the CF card at the beginning of each recording session I never had speed problems (even at 24/96Khz on a much slower card (rated at about 6.5 MB/sec write speed)).
my understanding is that cf cards cannot write the data fast enough for dsd. that is why korg used hard drives instead.
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Thanks for testing. Keep up the good work!
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hmmm, wouldn´t have a Sandisk Extreme 4 enough speed to handle DSD steams? I mean it promises more than 40 MB/s...
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I think these new fast cards use UDMA technology, which I have no idea what that means, but you need devices that are UDMA compatible in order to achieve those read/write speeds, and I'm not sure if these ZIF > CF adapters handle that.
I do have a 4 GB 300x UDMA Lexar card (http://store.lexar.com/?productid=CF4GB-300-381) that I can try, but it is a bit small to do the extended test. I think it will only record under 2 hr. I'll try it and if the files are corrupted, it will mean that these fast cards won't work for whatever reason. If everything goes fine, that will open the possibility that these fast cards could work, but I will have to get my hands on a 8 or even 16 GB CF.
Edit: My adapter apparently supports UDMA. It is the same one as in this pic:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Compact-Flash-CF-To-Toshiba-CE-1-8-ZIF-Adapter_W0QQitemZ220468721260QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Components?hash=item3354f5b66c&_trksid=p4999.c0.m14
I'll test it out now and report back (in < 2 h!) ;D
hmmm, wouldn´t have a Sandisk Extreme 4 enough speed to handle DSD steams? I mean it promises more than 40 MB/s...
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I would think modern CF cards would be fast enough, but you never know.
I know 1bit 2.8Mhz DSD file sizes are about 2.4GB per hour where as 24/96 files are about 2GB per hour and a 24/192 is about 4GB per hour. I would think a CF card that runs over 10MBps would be more than enough to handle DSD streams.
I would think a 1bit 2.8Mhz DSD 2 channel DSD stream would be around 0.68 MBps (or about 3Mbps)
Right as you say maybe the bottle neck is elsewhere.
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My 300x UDMA card doesn't work. I recorded 1.5 h, and it had the same problem.
At this point, it could be the adapter, or it can just be that CF cards aren't compatible. I agree with H2O that it should be fast enough, so I'm not a techie to figure out what else could be going on.
Just from doing all these tests, my failed attempts, ie., the RunCore SSD and the CF-mod shared the common feature that they have slower write speeds than the Mtron SSD or Hitachi drive. I guess the other common feature is that they are cheap parts sourced in Asia too, so I'm not sure what kind of standards they are adhering to, or what kind of QC is going on.
I would think modern CF cards would be fast enough, but you never know.
I know 1bit 2.8Mhz DSD file sizes are about 2.4GB per hour where as 24/96 files are about 2GB per hour and a 24/192 is about 4GB per hour. I would think a CF card that runs over 10MBps would be more than enough to handle DSD streams.
I would think a 1bit 2.8Mhz DSD 2 channel DSD stream would be around 0.68 MBps (or about 3Mbps)
Right as you say maybe the bottle neck is elsewhere.
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hmmm...Thanks for the info. I would like to get rid of the "noisy"drive. :'(
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Dunno if someone has mentioned: firmware 1.6 is available. :)
http://www.korg.co.uk/products/digital_recording/mr/dr_mr1.asp
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Has anyone tried the following SSD in the MR-1?
http://www.kingspec.com/solid-state-disk-products/ssd-18zif-mlcs.htm
http://www.memoryc.com/storage/solidstatedisk/32gbkingspeczif40pin.html (http://www.memoryc.com/storage/solidstatedisk/32gbkingspeczif40pin.html)
Looking at the wattage it looks like it may pull slightly more power then the HDD currently installed.
They are starting to get cheap enough to look at as a viable replacement for the stock HDD.
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Dunno if someone has mentioned: firmware 1.6 is available. :)
http://www.korg.co.uk/products/digital_recording/mr/dr_mr1.asp
Updated Audiogate software too. Includes FLAC support
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doesn't the new Korg recorder dump files to HDSD ?
are CF speeds slower ?
Just wondering if doing a MOD to the MR1 and utilizing a different chip will work.
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Updated Audiogate software too. Includes FLAC support
The FLAC support is nice as I convert down to 24/88.2 and the files are just at 2GB for the past few shows I have done. I then just pull them straight into CD-Wave slice and save as FLAC as well.
No FLAC frontend, etc - just Audiogate and CD-WAVE is all you need now.
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I am now testing a CF mod with the MR-1 and it's looking good so far.
Using (Transcend 32GB 400x CF):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820208529&cm_re=transcend_32gb_cf-_-20-208-529-_-Product (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820208529&cm_re=transcend_32gb_cf-_-20-208-529-_-Product)
Recording WSD for about 2hrs now on battery with included mics (screen light on constently, plug in power, line level (as I didn't get the line-mic switch on properly when I opened it)).
Battery down to 2 of 3 -> So it's looking like you double if not more than double battery life with this card from 90 minutes to 180 minutes
Battery dropped from 2 to 1 at 2 hours 56 minutes -> so you can easily get 3 hours on this setup.
Just hit 4 hours still with 1 bar - going to stop at 4:05 if it is still running.
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I'm anxiously waiting the results!
Where I got stuck was when I stopped the recording. I received a "Disk Error" and many of the file parts were truncated.
Good luck, this will be great if it works!
I am now testing a CF mod with the MR-1 and it's looking good so far.
Using (Transcend 32GB 400x CF):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820208529&cm_re=transcend_32gb_cf-_-20-208-529-_-Product (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820208529&cm_re=transcend_32gb_cf-_-20-208-529-_-Product)
Recording WSD for about 2hrs now on battery with included mics (screen light on constently, plug in power, line level (as I didn't get the line-mic switch on properly when I opened it)).
Battery down to 2 of 3 -> So it's looking like you double if not more than double battery life with this card from 90 minutes to 180 minutes
Battery dropped from 2 to 1 at 2 hours 56 minutes -> so you can easily get 3 hours on this setup.
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Yea, I´m waiting to dismantle this thing. >:D
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If you haven't yet, the biggest tip I can give you is to take a piece of scotch tape and tape the line/mic and PIP switches to the front half of the case. These switches aren't secured and will fall out when you take the back plate off. It's easy enough to realign them, but taping them saves you the trouble.
Yea, I´m waiting to dismantle this thing. >:D
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thank for the tip. Cheers. ;)
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I never got a disk error but some of the 10 split files have errors in them (truncations) - 4 out of the 10 had errors.
Next step run off wall power and record and then try 24/88.2 and finally 24/48 - will keep you all posted. Getting over 4hours on the internal battery is promising but the file errors are not.
It's a shame you cannot change the split size to see if that helps out.
Test results:
24bit 88.2Khz -> OK -> Need to run longer and at lower levels
24bit 96Khz -> Fails - Locks up when trying to stop the recording
24bit 176.4Khz -> Fails - Locks up when trying to stop the recording
24bit 192Khz -> Fails - Error after stopping recording
WSD -> Fails - with error after stopping recording and some splits truncated
So it may make a good 24/88.2 recorder with CF installed -> 4 hour record time, etc -> Maybe easier to stick with an M10 though
Maybe a 600x CF card will give better results
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One thing I have noticed is that the 2 SSD drives (Mtron, Samsung) that seem to work with the MR-1 (http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/425849/korg-mr-1-can-this-be-used-as-a-portable-player/195 thread) use SLC versus MLC flash memory.
SLC is supposed to be faster but also much more expensive.
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I've had that Mtron SSD drive installed since I reported my progress over there on head-fi, on here, earlier in this thread. I've taped a number of shows with it and no problems whatsoever. I think that is the way to go if you want solid state, however, there is no benefit in terms of battery life.
One thing I have noticed is that the 2 SSD drives (Mtron, Samsung) that seem to work with the MR-1 (http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/425849/korg-mr-1-can-this-be-used-as-a-portable-player/195 thread) use SLC versus MLC flash memory.
SLC is supposed to be faster but also much more expensive.
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hmmm...I just wondering if something like these SD card to ZIF adapters could work for a mod of the MR-1?
http://cgi.ebay.com/SDHC-SD-MMC-1-8-micro-IDE-ZIF-Hard-Disk-Drive-adapter-/370407073583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563dfb672f#ht_3483wt_1026
http://www.buyincoins.com/sd-card-to-1-8-ce-zif-50pin-ide-hdd-adapter-converter-product-1721.html
It is supposed to support up to 32 GB SDHC.
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I've had that Mtron SSD drive installed since I reported my progress over there on head-fi, on here, earlier in this thread. I've taped a number of shows with it and no problems whatsoever. I think that is the way to go if you want solid state, however, there is no benefit in terms of battery life.
What is the going rate for these SSDs? I see the 32GB SSD going for $200 which is a bit expensive IMO - Did you find these cheaper any where else?
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I can't remember how much it was, but I think $200 sounds pretty good. I was doing that bing cashback when it was alive, then ebates on top of that, so I think I got a good deal on the 16 GB.
It uses the ZIF2 interface though. Is this compatible with the interface in the MR1?
I've had that Mtron SSD drive installed since I reported my progress over there on head-fi, on here, earlier in this thread. I've taped a number of shows with it and no problems whatsoever. I think that is the way to go if you want solid state, however, there is no benefit in terms of battery life.
What is the going rate for these SSDs? I see the 32GB SSD going for $200 which is a bit expensive IMO - Did you find these cheaper any where else?
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I think someone over at head-fi was trying it, but he never reported the result. After I put in the SSD, I kind of gave up trying the mods (too much $$$ invested already!) :)
hmmm...I just wondering if something like these SD card to ZIF adapters could work for a mod of the MR-1?
http://cgi.ebay.com/SDHC-SD-MMC-1-8-micro-IDE-ZIF-Hard-Disk-Drive-adapter-/370407073583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563dfb672f#ht_3483wt_1026
http://www.buyincoins.com/sd-card-to-1-8-ce-zif-50pin-ide-hdd-adapter-converter-product-1721.html
It is supposed to support up to 32 GB SDHC.
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hmmm...I just wondering if something like these SD card to ZIF adapters could work for a mod of the MR-1?
http://cgi.ebay.com/SDHC-SD-MMC-1-8-micro-IDE-ZIF-Hard-Disk-Drive-adapter-/370407073583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563dfb672f#ht_3483wt_1026 (http://cgi.ebay.com/SDHC-SD-MMC-1-8-micro-IDE-ZIF-Hard-Disk-Drive-adapter-/370407073583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563dfb672f#ht_3483wt_1026)
http://www.buyincoins.com/sd-card-to-1-8-ce-zif-50pin-ide-hdd-adapter-converter-product-1721.html (http://www.buyincoins.com/sd-card-to-1-8-ce-zif-50pin-ide-hdd-adapter-converter-product-1721.html)
It is supposed to support up to 32 GB SDHC.
I don't think SDHC cards will work as they seem to be much slower in general versus CF.
It looks like to me that the MR-1 writes to it's HDD in somewhat of a random fashion which is not compatible with slower Flash solutions and/or the firmware is very conservative on timeouts on writes.
2 Channel 24/88.2 should run at about = 4234kbit/s ~ 4 Mbps -> seems to work
2 Channel 24/96 should run at about = 4608kbit/s ~ 4.5Mbps -> does not work
2 Channel DSD 1/2.8224Mhz should run about = 5649kbit/s ~ 5.5Mbps -> does not work
So you would think the Transcend CF Flash Memory rated at a max Sequential Write speed of 60MBps would be sufficient to handle this.
According to the other thread to get it to work you need around 100MBps Sequential Write Speeds to make this work.
Such as this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820139283&cm_re=32GB_CF-_-20-139-283-_-Product
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I'm wondering if it is an MLC vs SLC issue like you pointed out. I see that there are SLC CF cards, but a 16 GB SLC RITEK CF card is almost the same price as a 32 GB Mtron SSD.
hmmm...I just wondering if something like these SD card to ZIF adapters could work for a mod of the MR-1?
http://cgi.ebay.com/SDHC-SD-MMC-1-8-micro-IDE-ZIF-Hard-Disk-Drive-adapter-/370407073583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563dfb672f#ht_3483wt_1026 (http://cgi.ebay.com/SDHC-SD-MMC-1-8-micro-IDE-ZIF-Hard-Disk-Drive-adapter-/370407073583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563dfb672f#ht_3483wt_1026)
http://www.buyincoins.com/sd-card-to-1-8-ce-zif-50pin-ide-hdd-adapter-converter-product-1721.html (http://www.buyincoins.com/sd-card-to-1-8-ce-zif-50pin-ide-hdd-adapter-converter-product-1721.html)
It is supposed to support up to 32 GB SDHC.
I don't think SDHC cards will work as they seem to be much slower in general versus CF.
It looks like to me that the MR-1 writes to it's HDD in somewhat of a random fashion which is not compatible with slower Flash solutions and/or the firmware is very conservative on timeouts on writes.
2 Channel 24/88.2 should run at about = 4234kbit/s ~ 4 Mbps -> seems to work
2 Channel 24/96 should run at about = 4608kbit/s ~ 4.5Mbps -> does not work
2 Channel DSD 1/2.8224Mhz should run about = 5649kbit/s ~ 5.5Mbps -> does not work
So you would think the Transcend CF Flash Memory rated at a max Sequential Write speed of 60MBps would be sufficient to handle this.
According to the other thread to get it to work you need around 100MBps Sequential Write Speeds to make this work.
Such as this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820139283&cm_re=32GB_CF-_-20-139-283-_-Product
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ok, maybe the SD version is worth a try if you use a class 10 Card. The adapter is just 20 bucks and I could use the SD for my camera. My intention would be to make the MR1 really portable and noiseless. So a 16GB SD would do the job. If I try I will post it. ::)
But I got a bit confused following the threads: What is a successful combination CF cards, SSDs, adaptors and ribbon cables? ???
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Its been so long that I forget!
So far:
CF cards -- incomplete functionality
CF Adapter: "Startec" brand
SSDs -- Mtron 16 GB 1.8 ZIF
Ribbon -- the stock ribbon in the MR-1 should be compatible with the adapter, or the adapter will come with one. Basically it is a white ribbon with blue ends. On one side of the end is contacts that must make contact with the ZIF connector on your adapter or drive. The other makes contact with the motherboard.
Be careful of the ZIF latches. They come in different types. There are latches that flip up, latches that slide back. I mangled the latch to the RunCore SSD that I tried because I thought it flipped up, but instead it slid out!! (still works though) :)
ok, maybe the SD version is worth a try if you use a class 10 Card. The adapter is just 20 bucks and I could use the SD for my camera. My intention would be to make the MR1 really portable and noiseless. So a 16GB SD would do the job. If I try I will post it. ::)
But I got a bit confused following the threads: What is a successful combination CF cards, SSDs, adaptors and ribbon cables? ???
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thanks for the summary ;)
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Just grabbed a used Samsung 1.8" SSD ZIF that uses SLC - If it works (sold as untested with warranty - fingers crossed) - I will post results here.
I used some cheapo China ZIF > CF adapter (paid $7 for 2 shipped from China) - there is no logic between the ZIF and the CF card as CF cards follow IDE/PATA standards - seemed to work fine.
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Here's another Samsung 64gb SSD that may work with the MR-1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330516057741
Currently going for $31
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Here is more info on SLC vs MLC
http://www.supertalent.com/datasheets/SLC_vs_MLC%20whitepaper.pdf (http://www.supertalent.com/datasheets/SLC_vs_MLC%20whitepaper.pdf)
BTW - I got the Samsung SSD and it is having all types of issues -> I think it's bad so I am going to return it for a refund -> others have reported flawless success with 64GB Samsung SLC 1.8" ZIF SSD's
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SUCCESS WITH THE CF-MOD!!!
Thanks to H2O's observation that SLC based SSD drives work, but not MLC based SSD, I went ahead and ordered an SLC based CF card:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820183236
I couldn't find many SLC CF cards, and this one was the only one I could find from a reputable place.
Bottom line is that I got a marginal improvement in battery life. With the HDD and SSD, I was getting record times of around 2.5 h, and with the CF card, I got a record time of just over 3 hr. I would estimate around 3 h, 5 min, which is the last time I looked. The unit did a hard shut down when it ran out of juice, and I could only recover 2 h 42 min of recording.
I don't think that this is the same problem that H2O and I had with truncated file fragments because in those cases, the damaged files were randomly distributed, and I could not access them. In this most recent trial, all the fragments were intact and playable. I probably could get the whole 3 h if I stopped the unit manually and let it write out the file and PRJ file.
Anyway, I will still be recording with an external battery, since 3 h is just barely enough to cover a whole concert, including the opener.
The CF card has the advantage over the SSD drive in that the SSD drive got very hot, whereas the CF card got warm.
I am wondering why I got such a long run time with an MLC CF card (~ 5 h), when SLC memory is supposed to be lower power consumption. It could be that my battery is wearing down.
Anyway, bottom line is that money is probably better spent on getting a larger HDD. Unless you really want to go solid state, the price is not worth the advantage at this point.
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OK.
So I just got done reading all of these posts.
Interesting to me because I like these little recorders, but the question I just kept asking as I was "watching" you guys take them apart and put them together... here are the quick questions I have:
1) You are unhappy with the hard drive because it uses too much battery power. Also it can be noisy? Also it introduces errors?
2) The replacement hard drives you are using are the same size, possibly smaller, correct?
I personally have never had any issues with any files made with the stock unit, and I usually just record DSDIFF files.
What I do take offense to is the battery life. I was able to get a solid 2.5 hours for a long time, but of the 3 units I own, we're down to 13mins with my first one (200+ recordings), 2hrs with the 2nd one (33 recordings) and a new one I still haven't tested.
At this point, each one just needs an external pack, and if you are taking them apart, wouldn't the real task to be user replacement of the internal battery. I've often thought of trying to mod this with a bigger battery, even if it made the unit slightly wider and I had to use some kind of rubber to reseal it...
Anyway, just wondering if any of you have solved andy issues with the battery or if you were just working on the hard drive issues.
jb
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The hope with going to solid state (at least to me) was that I could increase the battery life. For the shows I see, 2.5 h can cover the main act, but if I try and get the opener(s) I would be in danger territory. There was also a post where someone was moving while taping, and he reported that the HDD skipped. Also, HDDs eventually fail, whereas solid state is supposed to have greater longevity.
Others have replaced the HDD with a larger size, but to me, 16 GB is enough for what I tape. If I start doing festivals, I may think about putting in a 32 GB.
The Mtron SSD is pretty much identical size to the the stock HDD. In fact the stock HDD comes with a plastic cover which I removed and placed onto the SDD. The CF adapter/CF card is pretty much the same size and approximately the same thickness too. Maybe less thick.
I have thought about replacing the battery, but I am certainly not the expert with that. I don't know if it's simply a matter of finding a LiIon pack with a compatible Voltage and Current then hacking the cable/connector. Also, I've tried to take the stock battery out, but it seems to be in there pretty tight. I've tried tugging at it with no success. If you've never taken apart one of your MR-1's, the connector is on the opposite side of the motherboard that the ZIF connector is on, so one would need to take out the M/B to get full access to the connector.
If anyone can verify that the procedure would be to cut the leads and solder the leads from the replacement, then find me a compatible battery, I would be game. I'm desperate to extend the battery life!
OK.
So I just got done reading all of these posts.
Interesting to me because I like these little recorders, but the question I just kept asking as I was "watching" you guys take them apart and put them together... here are the quick questions I have:
1) You are unhappy with the hard drive because it uses too much battery power. Also it can be noisy? Also it introduces errors?
2) The replacement hard drives you are using are the same size, possibly smaller, correct?
I personally have never had any issues with any files made with the stock unit, and I usually just record DSDIFF files.
What I do take offense to is the battery life. I was able to get a solid 2.5 hours for a long time, but of the 3 units I own, we're down to 13mins with my first one (200+ recordings), 2hrs with the 2nd one (33 recordings) and a new one I still haven't tested.
At this point, each one just needs an external pack, and if you are taking them apart, wouldn't the real task to be user replacement of the internal battery. I've often thought of trying to mod this with a bigger battery, even if it made the unit slightly wider and I had to use some kind of rubber to reseal it...
Anyway, just wondering if any of you have solved andy issues with the battery or if you were just working on the hard drive issues.
jb
-
I would think the 2 reasons to swap out the internal HDD would be for the following:
- Greater capacity with a larger HDD -> you can easily find HDD upto 120GB that should work with the MR-1 (80GB drives have been reported working fine)
- Longer battery life with Flash -> You can get up to 2x the battery life using Flash but as we are seeing it looks like you need SLC which may only give you -> If we can ever get low power and fast enough flash you may be able to record a whole show with the internal battery (4 hours record time would be ideal).
I have NEVER had any problems with noise or errors using the internal HDD -> I don't buy these arguments with this unit.
-
I have NEVER had any problems with noise or errors using the internal HDD -> I don't buy these arguments with this unit.
Lucky you. I have both of these problems. The noise is very subtle and occasionally I get drive errors of the Korg at startup and only a hard reset can help. My MR1 behaves like a bitch and I don´t know really if I want to spend another 180 bucks to mod it. A cheaper solution with non SLC CFs I would appreciate. Another important thing for me is that I want to carry around the MR1 while recording. Not easy with the harddrive. From this reason I would buy the MR2 but dunno if its really worth that much like 700 Euros.
btw: is SLC and UDMA the same?
-
The only problem I had with the HDD was when I was recording, then it gave me a write error or something. There was plenty of space left, so I don't know what happened. From then on, I have been reformatting the drive before I record.
I think I am going to stick with the SLC CF card, PM me if you're interested in the 16 GB SSD.
I have NEVER had any problems with noise or errors using the internal HDD -> I don't buy these arguments with this unit.
Lucky you. I have both of these problems. The noise is very subtle and occasionally I get drive errors of the Korg at startup and only a hard reset can help. My MR1 behaves like a bitch and I don´t know really if I want to spend another 180 bucks to mod it. A cheaper solution with non SLC CFs I would appreciate. Another important thing for me is that I want to carry around the MR1 while recording. Not easy with the harddrive. From this reason I would buy the MR2 but dunno if its really worth that much like 700 Euros.
btw: is SLC and UDMA the same?
-
I have both of these problems. The noise is very subtle and occasionally I get drive errors of the Korg at startup and only a hard reset can help. My MR1 behaves like a bitch and I don't know really if I want to spend another 180 bucks to mod it. A cheaper solution with non SLC CFs I would appreciate. Another important thing for me is that I want to carry around the MR1 while recording. Not easy with the harddrive. From this reason I would buy the MR2 but dunno if its really worth that much like 700 Euros.
Interesting.
It really sounds like you have a lemon.
I would doubt that it is under any warranty, but that is too many problems that make you want to throw it out rather than try to fix them.
I carry 2 of them now, and sometimes there is some serious bump & grind, and I've never had any issues except the battery plug or the input plug coming loose.
I definitely want to try an MR2, but then the MR1 wasn't affordable to me until it went under $200.
We'll have to wait for this year's crop of new stuff to take down the prices and generate some sales and some used gear for that.
Are you dead set on using this recorder, or are you just stubborn like me, when i wanted to keep using my SBM-1?
jb
-
Has anyone had a flawless transplant of a CF card ?
(yes - I've read all the posts..)
I mean issue free...
From what I gather -
If you have the correct converter>
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11814
and a fast CF card > (another good source)
http://www.buy.com/prod/transcend-32-gb-compactflash-cf-card-1-card-pack-400x/q/sellerid/20451128/loc/101/213259553.html
all you need to do is replace the HDD with the new rig and turn on, format and go...
I'm very interested in this deck (for the hi-resolution),
but I want to know IF I get one and all the right parts, that I can run it longer w/o issues.
(I don't want an external batt. for stealth reasons)
-
The only CF card that has worked is the SLC a-Data card. The 16GB card (highest capacity) costs about $175 or so and from tedyun's tests only gives about 50% more battery life (3 hours vs 2 hours run time).
I tested the Transcend card you linked too and it worked at 24/88.2 but nothing higher (24/96 or DSD did not work) -> Read back in this thread.
The only other flash solutions we have heard of working is Mitek SLC based SSD.
I would be willing to bet that within the next couple of years we will be able to get a high capacity SLC or VERY FAST MLC (at least 100MBps Write Speed) for under $100 and get the 4 hours we need. With that said I don't think we are quite there yet
The only other card I would try that's out now is this card ->
http://www.jr.com/kingston/pe/KGS_CF32GBU3/
as it has 90MBps write speeds as compared to the 60MBps with the 400x Transcend cards - this may be enough to make the Korg work with it.
-
I read the post and immediately did a search
(since I know what to look for now)
found this >
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0903/09030602preteccfcard666x.asp
http://www.photographybay.com/2009/03/03/pretec-666x-cf-cards/
then this >
http://theflashstore.com/product.php?id_product=723
http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=dvnation&product_name=Photofast+533X+Plus+Compact+Flash+16GB+Card&exact_match=exact
http://store.uniquephoto.com/e/index.php/hoodman-raw-32gb-675x-udma-100mb-s-slc-compactflash-card-raw6-cf32gb.html?zmae=froogle&zmam=86451217&zmas=29&zmac=65&zmap=HMD5032
http://www.supertalent.com/products/sd_detail.php?series=CFast%20Cards
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?p=CF_32-600X&c=pw&hash=8386W2e7p7B4ig8eKKdJCWCqVxd%2BiM0WeIFQensAaoqrnv9WpzSc0E6I3qAgt%2B6gIWeVa2vWK9d0gpzN2kk6w6uTDc7sQexf5s%2FnhUEtYV09fckfPMgmUBgBQ0Ce
this looks good >
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?p=CFAST32GM&c=pw&hash=8ee0GKrt4ZEmUYU3a3u7nZxedVWczijDqTQ71WQRNS2aVEmwqf2GxqtWdS1A8lDnqbd6tvtcT%2FM5dvjOrY1E3LXRgeh8aoVLJvhrC78sp7DJLoMSg6cCYkNRJnQ
I can't find prices for the pretech. The site is strange, it doesn't give ordering options.
or dealers either.
(but I think its really 80W/100R for the 32GB)
then finally this insane news >
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2375486,00.asp
-
From your links, I only see one that is an SLC card ($460 for 32 GB!). I'm not sure if speed is the issue because I think H2O calculated that even the slower cards should be able to write the DSD stream.
I've used 2 SSD drives that were not SLC, but had pretty fast write speeds, and they failed.
I'm convinced that it is an SLC vs MLC issue, but I'd love to be proven wrong.
If you haven't bought the MR-1 yet, I would strongly advise getting another deck if you want to stealth. There are smaller options out there that will allow you to capture 24/96. If you do get the MR-1, the battery life really sucks and you would have to carry an external battery to get more than 2 h run time. Even if that is ok, the battery will eventually wear out, so you won't be getting 2 h after many uses. Things like the R09HR or Sony PCM-M10 allow you to run using AA's, and they will run for quite a while.
That being said, I've stealthed with the MR-1, external battery, Aerco preamp, DVD battery. Just wear a big jacket ;D
I read the post and immediately did a search
(since I know what to look for now)
found this >
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0903/09030602preteccfcard666x.asp
http://www.photographybay.com/2009/03/03/pretec-666x-cf-cards/
then this >
http://theflashstore.com/product.php?id_product=723
http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=dvnation&product_name=Photofast+533X+Plus+Compact+Flash+16GB+Card&exact_match=exact
http://store.uniquephoto.com/e/index.php/hoodman-raw-32gb-675x-udma-100mb-s-slc-compactflash-card-raw6-cf32gb.html?zmae=froogle&zmam=86451217&zmas=29&zmac=65&zmap=HMD5032
http://www.supertalent.com/products/sd_detail.php?series=CFast%20Cards
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?p=CF_32-600X&c=pw&hash=8386W2e7p7B4ig8eKKdJCWCqVxd%2BiM0WeIFQensAaoqrnv9WpzSc0E6I3qAgt%2B6gIWeVa2vWK9d0gpzN2kk6w6uTDc7sQexf5s%2FnhUEtYV09fckfPMgmUBgBQ0Ce
this looks good >
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?p=CFAST32GM&c=pw&hash=8ee0GKrt4ZEmUYU3a3u7nZxedVWczijDqTQ71WQRNS2aVEmwqf2GxqtWdS1A8lDnqbd6tvtcT%2FM5dvjOrY1E3LXRgeh8aoVLJvhrC78sp7DJLoMSg6cCYkNRJnQ
I can't find prices for the pretech. The site is strange, it doesn't give ordering options.
or dealers either.
(but I think its really 80W/100R for the 32GB)
then finally this insane news >
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2375486,00.asp
-
If you haven't bought the MR-1 yet, I would strongly advise getting another deck if you want to stealth. There are smaller options out there that will allow you to capture 24/96. If you do get the MR-1, the battery life really sucks and you would have to carry an external battery to get more than 2 h run time. Even if that is ok, the battery will eventually wear out, so you won't be getting 2 h after many uses. Things like the R09HR or Sony PCM-M10 allow you to run using AA's, and they will run for quite a while.
That being said, I've stealthed with the MR-1, external battery, Aerco preamp, DVD battery. Just wear a big jacket ;D
That's the bottom line, as I see it, too. To keep these things practical, that battery issue has to get solved.
I'd be fine if Korg would ACTUALLY replace the battery for $85.
I think that the little AA battery pack works well and doesn't get in the way under the circumstances. The toughest part is just keeping everything plugged in.
-
still hunting for a card and found this news >
http://www.gizmag.com/sandisk-nikon-sony-propose-new-compactflash-specification/17127/?utm_source=Gizmag+Subscribers&utm_campaign=3f7cdb3777-UA-2235360-4&utm_medium=email
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'd like to get the hi-rez capability w/ the MR-1
I have a bunch of digital recorders...they're all decent and small,
but I suppose it's the challenge to make this happen that appeals to me...
the goal is to have the shortest chain possible - mics-pre-deck
(no extra battery to deal with)
It seems if I do the CF swap - I'm good for 1 (3-ish hours) show (power wise)
---------------------------------
What about this ? >
only $116./shipped
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=CF_16-600X&src=FR&pid=91fd5fd2fe1d648d22fc6a8a14af420b226e81b64fb47cd954eaf4a25ca335bf
16GB @ 22 min per GB @ 2.8MHz setting is over 5 hours (almost 6) ;D
or - almost 3 hours at the higher 5.6 setting (@ 11 min per GB)
sounds good to me !
-
FWIW - 16GB is unformatted -> after formatting you will be under 15GB
And the MR-1 doesn't support 5.6Mhz only 2.8Mhz - MR1000 supports both.
The Super Talent ones look like they may work.
Key is that the write speed needs to be around 100MBps so the 87-95MBps cards may work.
-
Nice find! I'm not familiar with that brand but I have ordered from Superbiiz before.
still hunting for a card and found this news >
http://www.gizmag.com/sandisk-nikon-sony-propose-new-compactflash-specification/17127/?utm_source=Gizmag+Subscribers&utm_campaign=3f7cdb3777-UA-2235360-4&utm_medium=email
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'd like to get the hi-rez capability w/ the MR-1
I have a bunch of digital recorders...they're all decent and small,
but I suppose it's the challenge to make this happen that appeals to me...
the goal is to have the shortest chain possible - mics-pre-deck
(no extra battery to deal with)
It seems if I do the CF swap - I'm good for 1 (3-ish hours) show (power wise)
---------------------------------
What about this ? >
only $116./shipped
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=CF_16-600X&src=FR&pid=91fd5fd2fe1d648d22fc6a8a14af420b226e81b64fb47cd954eaf4a25ca335bf
16GB @ 22 min per GB @ 2.8MHz setting is over 5 hours (almost 6) ;D
or - almost 3 hours at the higher 5.6 setting (@ 11 min per GB)
sounds good to me !
-
Based on everything that's been said, this the right one >
32GB > http://www.buy.com/prod/hoodman-raw-32-gb-675x-udma-high-speed-compact-flash-memory-card/q/sellerid/15334023/loc/33409/215498306.html
16GB > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370424531368#vi-content
(Lowest prices I've found...)
That's not affordable ^, but I'd like to find out more about the MR-1's write speed tolerances before I go ahead w/ a 90MB/s CF.
I may only need a 16GB. That's over 5 hours even with 15Gb formatted. That's all I really need it for
1 day's show (3 bands or 2 bands or 2 sets /main act)
If I've understood all the posts I've been reading (here and elsewhere)... switching to CF gives me about the same in battery power (...no ?)
so it seems an equal balance between memory and power.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Super Talent is well known for SSD upgrades in netbooks.
I have an upgrade on my ASUS 901 to a 32GB Supertalent SSD
Hoodman makes Video supplies of all sorts.
(at least I think that's the same company)
-
I'm not sure -- they don't specify what kind of memory they use. They say it's "SSD" but an SSD can use either SLC or MLC. Those cards are priced like they are SLC, but you definitely want to know before buying.
Really, the battery issue is not adequately addressed by the CF mod. The CF mod essentially gives you a solid state alternative, in case you are concerned about problems with the hard drive, as others have reported. If you want more space, then the most cost effective way is to get a larger HDD. Others have reported success with 80 GB and higher I believe.
But if you aren't going to use an external battery, then getting a 16 GB or higher is moot because the MR-1 is going to die after 2 h.
Based on everything you've said, this the right one >
32GB > http://www.buy.com/prod/hoodman-raw-32-gb-675x-udma-high-speed-compact-flash-memory-card/q/sellerid/15334023/loc/33409/215498306.html
16GB > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370424531368#vi-content
(Lowest prices I've found...)
That's not affordable ^, but I'd like to find out more about the MR-1's write speed tolerances before I go ahead w/ a 90MB/s CF.
I may only need a 16GB. Thats over 5 hours even with 15Gb formatted. That's all I really need it for - 1 day's show (3 bands or 2 bands or 2 sets /main act)
If I've understood all the posts I've been reading (here and elsewhere)... switching to CF gives me about the same in battery power (...no ?)
so it seems an equal balance between memory and power.
-
that's not hat I've been reading...and logic says otherwise...
Going from a spinning drive to no moving parts decreases power consumption.
The only question is how much is gained ?
-
One would think! I've tried it, and there is no gain in battery life by going with SSD or CF. With the CF, you go from 2.5 h to 3 h.
With a MLC CF, you do get an increase in battery life (to 5 h), but it cannot record in 1-bit (you can only do 24/88)
Anyway, I don't want to discourage you from trying. We definitely need help trying to work through this problem, and if you're able to figure it out, I would love to see success! Good luck!
that's not hat I've been reading...and logic says otherwise...
Going from a spinning drive to no moving parts decreases power consumption.
The only question is how much is gained ?
-
well...I read somewhere that there was no real power gain by swapping to SSD, but double+ gain for a CF,
but I don't have anything to back it up. I was hoping that it was true.
I think the next step would be to explore battery size and type...
What type battery is in it now ?
find out the max size within the battery area in the deck.
Can the space tolerate a larger battery ?
matching to all battery manufacturers, and possibly other battery types,
like Li-Ion poly. Higher capacity in the same space.
also, can the MR-1 support charging of this battery...?
etc...
Then a 32GB card would make more sense.
-
With a normal MLC CF, I was able to record 5 h (2-fold gain in battery life), but it can't record in 1-bit. H2O tested various resolutions and found that 24/88 was the best that an MLC CF could record. In which case an R-09 or M10 would be a better option.
Here is the only CF mod that works: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=93710.msg1833222#msg1833222
But I was disappointed to see that the SLC CF only extended battery life by a bit.
I forget the dimensions of the internal battery. I think it's 5.6 cm X 3.5 cm X 1 cm, 3.7V, 2000mAh. It is connected to a socket by a black and a red wire. I can't seem to pull the plug out of the socket, so I think I would have to cut off the old battery and solder in the new one.
I can't find a battery that size that is higher capacity, nor do I know if it would be a simple splice job. If you can find a source for the battery and someone can confirm that I can cut and paste it in, I would be happy to test it out.
well...I read somewhere that there was no real power gain by swapping to SSD, but double+ gain for a CF,
but I don't have anything to back it up. I was hoping that it was true.
I think the next step would be to explore battery size and type...
What type battery is in it now ?
find out the max size within the battery area in the deck.
Can the space tolerate a larger battery ?
matching to all battery manufacturers, and possibly other battery types,
like Li-Ion poly. Higher capacity in the same space.
also, can the MR-1 support charging of this battery...?
etc...
Then a 32GB card would make more sense.
-
what type/kind of battery is it ? Ni-Mh, Li-Ion...
"With a normal MLC CF, I was able to record 5 h (2-fold gain in battery life)"
...maybe that's what I read - The extended battery life was at a lower resolution.
too bad.
I'll look into the battery.
"Here is the only CF mod that works: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=93710.msg1833222#msg1833222"
I re-read the post. I read it once the first time thru the thread.
It really is inconclusive. He said he got 3H 5M out of it but was not able to recover all the data because of power loss/ hard shut down.
Is that due to the shut down or data write error masked by the shutdown.
He was using a Ri-Data 330x 16GB SLC UDMA CF (Read 45Mbs / Write 31Mbs)
Is UDMA a factor to consider ?
was there ever a re-test to confirm what the initial test found ? (scientific method)
I've done a lot of reading on this and it seems the errors may also be caused by an incompatible CF drive due to slower write speeds.
I've read some success stories within all the posts, but the data is inconsistent. I have not read a complete CF mod on the MR-1.
I've read about a lot of HD size upgrades though - like 80 and 120 ?
Here we are discussing the need for close to 100Mb/s write speeds for the CF
and I've read posts that claim they have a working CF mod with a Transend 133X card.(15~40Mb/s)
How is that possible ? Unless they are only using 16bit...? Then that is not a complete mod.
anyway, more research needed.
-
It's Li-Ion.
The "he" is me ;)
I did repeat the test, and I was determined to stop it at 3 h to verify that the data loss was due to the shut down. But at the 2:55 mark or so, I got distracted and forgot about it. I think I came back about 3:15, then the same thing occurred, ie., the recorder was off, and when I recovered the files, everything was fine except the last file which was truncated. I can repeat it if you're really interested, but I am pretty sure it is an SLC vs MLC issue at this point.
IIRC, the truncation here was different than the truncations with the MLC CF. With the SLC CF, the music is playable, whereas with the truncated files on the MLC, the data is corrupt. (H2O, can you confirm?)
With the MLC CF cards, I've used a non-UDMA CF card and a UDMA CF card and there was no difference.
I am wondering if the CF mod stories you read are over at head-fi? There, they are using it as a playback device. I don't think anyone has got it to record successfully. The MLC CF allows you to transfer files for playback, and then can play them, no problem. They are kind of funny over there. I read some users ripping a CD, transferring the files to an MR-1, then playing them back and claiming they could hear a difference? I kept wanting to chime in to tell them that it was just the amp section coloring the sound, but then I remembered that they probably just spent $500 on a machine bigger and lower capacity than an iPod. These are the same people that say they can hear a difference between normal wire and cryogenically treated wire..... ::)
Anyway, if you try those super fast cards, let us know. At this point, I have probably invested too much in this and those cards aren't cheap. The other thing is that to write at the high speeds, you need a device that supports UDMA. I'm not sure the MR-1 supports UDMA because it was never designed to take a CF card.
what type/kind of battery is it ? Ni-Mh, Li-Ion...
"With a normal MLC CF, I was able to record 5 h (2-fold gain in battery life)"
...maybe that's what I read - The extended battery life was at a lower resolution.
too bad.
I'll look into the battery.
"Here is the only CF mod that works: http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=93710.msg1833222#msg1833222"
I re-read the post. I read it once the first time thru the thread.
It really is inconclusive. He said he got 3H 5M out of it but was not able to recover all the data because of power loss/ hard shut down.
Is that due to the shut down or data write error masked by the shutdown.
He was using a Ri-Data 330x 16GB SLC UDMA CF (Read 45Mbs / Write 31Mbs)
Is UDMA a factor to consider ?
was there ever a re-test to confirm what the initial test found ? (scientific method)
I've done a lot of reading on this and it seems the errors may also be caused by an incompatible CF drive due to slower write speeds.
I've read some success stories within all the posts, but the data is inconsistent. I have not read a complete CF mod on the MR-1.
I've read about a lot of HD size upgrades though - like 80 and 120 ?
Here we are discussing the need for close to 100Mb/s write speeds for the CF
and I've read posts that claim they have a working CF mod with a Transend 133X card.(15~40Mb/s)
How is that possible ? Unless they are only using 16bit...? Then that is not a complete mod.
anyway, more research needed.
-
"I am wondering if the CF mod stories you read are over at head-fi?"
Yes. It's the only other place that I found any mod discussions on the MR-1.
And you are right, they make wild assumptions, and are driven by faux-knowledge created by slick advertising
and a bad case of one-upmanship. silly rabbits !
OK, I'll start researching the Hoodman RAW card (100Mb/s) to see if it's SLC.
I think it is. I read somewhere that it's the same flash NAND memory used in SSD,
which I believe is usually SLC , but I'll check it out.
then the battery after.
also the write speed (lowest tolerances) of the MR-1
Thanks for the update on the test. That helps a lot. Points me in the right direction.
(?) Do you think it won't work due to technology differences ?
ie...In order for a CF card to write at 100Mb it needs to be UDMA in a UDMA device ?
Could there be a MR-1 UDMA support conflict ? or not ?
...more questions...
-----------------------------------------------------------
add:
this doesn't look good >
http://www.hoodmanusa.com/UDMA_page.asp
there may be slower speeds in a non-UDMA device to a UDMA card.
So a 100Mb card may write slower, defeating the whole purpose. :-\
no actual data yet.
-
When the next gen of MLC/SLC chips come out on made with a smaller die size (i.e. like sub 25nm or something) I think you will see power requirements and price go down with these advances.
-
As I found out the hard way (ie., I have 2 SSD drives that do not work in the MR-1), SSDs can be of either MLC or SLC. The only ones that work in the MR-1 are made with SLC chips (H2O pointed this out).
UDMA cards work in non-UDMA devices, but the high-speeds aren't achieved. I am pretty sure the MR-1 does not support UDMA because this protocol is only available on devices that us CF as a storage, ie., DSLRs (unless the people at Korg secretly intended for people to do the CF-hack)!
I really don't think it's a speed issue. I forget how fast a DSD transfers, but even the slowest non-UDMA card theoretically should be able to handle the write speed of the DSD stream. Someone calculated it a few pages back in this thread.
Bottom line is that I don't think you can record a DSD stream to MLC memory. Thus we are relegated using SLC devices, in which case battery life is only marginally improved. It would be nice to find an MLC device that works, but so far we've had a number of failed attempts:
1. two MLC SSD devices do not work;
2. I count at least 5 different MLC CF cards being used here and over at head-fi, with no successful reports of recording a DSD stream. I've used 3 different MLC CF cards, H2O has used at least 1, and among the head-fi'ers, they've used at least 2 different brands.
So the choice is yours to try to make it work with an MLC device, but it turns pretty expensive pretty quick! If you have other uses for CF cards and SSDs, then it might not be so bad. I use my MLC devices as storage for my MTII, my camera, and for shuttling files between my computers.
I think at this point, the better option would be to find a higher capacity battery.
"I am wondering if the CF mod stories you read are over at head-fi?"
Yes. It's the only other place that I found any mod discussions on the MR-1.
And you are right, they make wild assumptions, and are driven by faux-knowledge created by slick advertising
and a bad case of one-upmanship. silly rabbits !
OK, I'll start researching the Hoodman RAW card (100Mb/s) to see if it's SLC.
I think it is. I read somewhere that it's the same flash NAND memory used in SSD,
which I believe is usually SLC , but I'll check it out.
then the battery after.
also the write speed (lowest tolerances) of the MR-1
Thanks for the update on the test. That helps a lot. Points me in the right direction.
(?) Do you think it won't work due to technology differences ?
ie...In order for a CF card to write at 100Mb it needs to be UDMA in a UDMA device ?
Could there be a MR-1 UDMA support conflict ? or not ?
...more questions...
-----------------------------------------------------------
add:
this doesn't look good >
http://www.hoodmanusa.com/UDMA_page.asp
there may be slower speeds in a non-UDMA device to a UDMA card.
So a 100Mb card may write slower, defeating the whole purpose. :-\
no actual data yet.
-
igene, running an external batt isn't too bad, even for stealthing. This is my MR-1 rig with the external battery on it. I usually run with the MR-1 cover on, but you can cut some space by taking the cover off. This is my battery:
http://www.amazon.com/MACALLY-External-Battery-all-iPods/dp/B000CGG8LW/ref=pd_sim_e_4
They are out of production and a bit hard to find, but it is the only one that seems to work with the MR-1. The problem is that the MR-1 periodically needs a high current, so you need to find one that has over 1 A. Most have 500 mA or less current. I've tried a few. For the low current ones, I keep having to unplug and replug the battery because the on screen battery indicator will switch from "charging" to not charging.
The only other solution that worked for me is a DVD battery connected to a voltage regulator (built by BJ here).
Anyone else using a different external battery?
-
UDMA is associated with the IDE interface which CF is compliant too - So I would hope KORG implemented this in there IDE interface - as this is a pretty standard mode used by IDE HDD's.
http://www.pcguide.com/ref/hdd/if/ide/modesUDMA-c.html
-
I found this interesting >
QUOTE :
From > http://www.pcguide.com/ref/hdd/if/ide/modesUDMA-c.html
"On new systems there are few issues with running Ultra DMA, because the hardware is all new and designed to run in Ultra DMA mode. With older systems, things are a bit more complex. In theory, new drives should be backwards compatible with older controllers and putting an Ultra DMA drive on an older PC should cause it to automatically run in a slower mode, such as PIO mode 4. Unfortunately, certain motherboards don't function well when an Ultra DMA drive is connected, and this may result in lockups or errors. A BIOS upgrade from the motherboard manufacturer is a good idea, if you are able to do this. Otherwise, you may need to use a special Ultra DMA software utility (available from the drive manufacturer) to tell the hard disk not to try to run in Ultra DMA mode. The same utility can be used to enable Ultra DMA mode on a drive that is set not to use it. You should use the utility specific to whatever make of drive you have.
As far as the battery goes, for MY purposes, I would want to concentrate on a higher capacity internal.
(same dimentions w/ higher capacity) I was thinking Li-Poly Ion.
The only downside is shorter battery life.
It would have to be swapped out after ~500 recharges as opposed to maybe 2000 w/ the Li-Ion.
Don't quote me on the exact numbers, it's just a range reference.
My steath rig mentality has been > always to downsize equipt. w/ same or better quality audio quality.
So far I've more or less been sticking to that. That's what I'm shooting for here as well.
(mics-pre-deck)
So summarizing - This needs to be attacked on a few fronts...
1.> UDMA compatability w/ MR-1 (already there ? or updatable ?)
2.> Is there a BIOS/Firmware/Software utility upgrade ?
3.> Will the final write speeds (based on results of 1 & 2) be fast enough ?
4.> Find compatible SLC CF card (or SSD?)
5.> Search for higher cap. batt. fitting size requirements
6.> ...will this battery get charged correctly by MR-1 (being of similar yet different composition)
what I can think of so far...
===============================================================
For a size referance :
you can see that my current stealth deck (Sanyo) is tiny (smaller than my Blackberry Pearl)
but it's only 16bit. The other 2 are 24bit and are great performers.
R-09 (well over 3 years)
VR-10 (about 6 months)
I just got the Sanyo Xacti 3 weeks ago
(for the size, for Line in use, and for extreme taping situations...)
(not yet concert tested)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_1863.jpg)
-
Personally, if I stealthed a lot, I think you're pretty much set with the TEAC. The MR1 is about the same size as the R09HR. I doubt if you'd be able to tell much difference between 1-bit, 24/96 or 24/48
1.> UDMA compatability w/ MR-1 (already there ? or updatable ?)
2.> Is there a BIOS/Firmware/Software utility upgrade ?
3.> Will the final write speeds (based on results of 1 & 2) be fast enough ?
I doubt Korg will release an updated Firmware to increase compatibility with faster drives or CF cards. Being a discontinued product, there really isn't any reason they would want to tweak the HDD interface as it works pretty well as it is. So what we have now is what it is, in terms of the unit talking to the HDD/CF/SSD. If there is some way to test the read/write speeds, I am willing to do it. I have UDMA and non-UDMA cards.
4.> Find compatible SLC CF card (or SSD?)
The Ritek I linked works, and the Mtron SSD works.
5.> Search for higher cap. batt. fitting size requirements
If you can find it, I will order it! The dimensions I posted earlier are pretty close. I can post the exact dimensions in the next few days when I get another chance to take it apart.
6.> ...will this battery get charged correctly by MR-1 (being of similar yet different composition)
I'm willing to test this!
-
I'll pick up the search tomorrow.
==============================================
Here a recording I made 9-17-10 @ the Highline Ballroom, NYC
with the TEAC VR-10 / CA-9100 / SP-CMC-08
Will I capture audio better than this recording with the MR-1 ?
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=ZALM04DW
It doesn't matter who it is (you'll like it though).
It's a really good recording w/ a low cost rig.
I don't own a MR-1 yet, but I'm willing to do the legwork and see how far I can get to a solution.
(It would be great to solve this mod)
I just want a comparison from some one who's use it to record @ 2.8
-
D/L'ing right now.
I ran CA-11 > CA-9100 > MR-1 for a while. Honestly, I think the 1-bit vs 24-bit is probably the smallest upgrade you could make. In fact there are double-blind studies where "audiophiles" could not tell the difference between a DSD vs DVD-Audio. I am probably sticking with the MR-1 because of stubbornness at this point! Too much money invested to drop it ;D
The biggest upgrade you can make is probably mics, and after that preamp, but then you are in the realm of open taping. Your stealth rig can probably pull pretty good recordings. Unless you are willing to go bigger in the mics and preamp, I think you're probably at the limit of smallest size, max quality!
I'll pick up the search tomorrow.
==============================================
Here a recording I made 9-17-10 @ the Highline Ballroom, NYC
with the TEAC VR-10 / CA-9100 / SP-CMC-08
Will I capture audio better than this recording with the MR-1 ?
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=ZALM04DW
It doesn't matter who it is (you'll like it though).
It's a really good recording w/ a low cost rig.
I don't own a MR-1 yet, but I'm willing to do the legwork and see how far I can get to a solution.
(It would be great to solve this mod)
I just want a comparison from some one who's use it to record @ 2.8
-
Don't read the text file until you've listened to the recording.
I don't want you to bias your opinion.
If this mod works this out - I'd be running the same mics & pre with the MR-1
I'm also a gear junkie, so ... it's not like I need another deck.
I'm sure you get it.
-
Nice job on the Omar show!
I'm not sure how much better you can get from going DSD.
Don't read the text file until you've listened to the recording.
I don't want you to bias your opinion.
If this mod works this out - I'd be running the same mics & pre with the MR-1
I'm also a gear junkie, so ... it's not like I need another deck.
I'm sure you get it.
-
thanks. It was a great pull. The stars aligned for that one.
...but don't blow the steam out of my search for an answer to this mod.
I don't want to lose interest here. I can get unfocused easily.
The desire or allure of better recordings with new gear is pretty strong though.
I'll get back when I've found something.
only thing I found out so far NEW is that Sandisk makes SSD's
-
I don't mean to take the wind out of your sails! I just want to make sure you know what to expect from it. If you hop on board and want to hack it, I think that would be great because the more minds working on this problem, the greater chance we have at cracking it. A lot has been done, so I want to make sure you're up to speed with where we are at.
Personally, my recordings have improved mainly by going to a fully open rig which records in 24/96. I went from CA-11>CA9100>MR-1 to DPA 4021 > V3 > AD2K+ (which has 24/96 as its highest resolution). I run the MR-1 as a backup these days. I was running Neumann KM150 > Aerco > MR-1 briefly, and I think the difference in sound was mainly due the mics and preamps, not 1-bit vs 24/96.
I think the concept of 1-bit recording is cool, it's just that the MR-1 isn't the best implementation for what we do. As long as you can deal with its quirks, you can get a nice recording. The main quirk is the poor battery life, and so far there isn't a good solution for it. At this point I think the only way to mitigate the problem is to use an external or replace the battery. Or just wait it out to see if H2O's prediction that SLCs will draw less power/cost less.
thanks. It was a great pull. The stars aligned for that one.
...but don't blow the steam out of my search for an answer to this mod.
I don't want to lose interest here. I can get unfocused easily.
The desire or allure of better recordings with new gear is pretty strong though.
I'll get back when I've found something.
only thing I found out so far NEW is that Sandisk makes SSD's
-
No worries.... I took the plunge.
I bought an MR-1, so I'm in. ;)
Now I HAVE to figure this out !
-
:coolguy:
Welcome to the Team! Let's crack this nut.
No worries.... I took the plunge.
I bought an MR-1, so I'm in. ;)
Now I HAVE to figure this out !
-
I sent an email to HOODMAN to find out about the read / write formats of their CF card.
I got this back >
HI Gene,
Hoodman RAW CF cards do not have SLC or MLC inside. As they use SSD which is on the PDF.
Best Regards,
Jean Vang
Marketing Dept.
Hoodman Corporation
20445 Gramercy Place, Suite # 201
Torrance, CA 90501
Phone: 310.222.8608
Fax: 310.222.8623
jean@hoodmanusa.com
HUH ?
This is the .pdf
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/HoodmanRAWCF.jpg
-
That makes no sense at all - SSD refers to an area of storage technology - SSD's commonly implement SLC or MLC Flash chips
-
I sent this email back.
A SSD drive needs to gather data in either SLC or MLC format.
SSD's all function that way, including all CF cards.
What format does your RAW card use if not SLC or MLC ?
Got this back >
Hi Gene,
I’m terribly sorry I gave you the wrong information.
The Hoodman CF cards use SLC memory.
If you have any other questions, please let me know.
Best Regards,
Jean Vang
Marketing Dept.
Hoodman Corporation
Now we're getting somewhere ! ;D
-
That's what happens when a marketing dude answers a tech question! Good job...
Still those cards are pretty expensive even for an SLC. Their 8 GB is around the same price as the 16 GB Ritek. And the Hoodman 4 GB is close in price to the Super Talent 16 GB at Superbiiz.
I sent this email back.
A SSD drive needs to gather data in either SLC or MLC format.
SSD's all function that way, including all CF cards.
What format does your RAW card use if not SLC or MLC ?
Got this back >
Hi Gene,
I’m terribly sorry I gave you the wrong information.
The Hoodman CF cards use SLC memory.
If you have any other questions, please let me know.
Best Regards,
Jean Vang
Marketing Dept.
Hoodman Corporation
Now we're getting somewhere ! ;D
-
I was wondering if the airline adapters work for line in on the MR-1
Is the spacing the same, or do you need to use a stereo to mono splitter w/ loose tails ?
If so, I found this really nice set >
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-adapTOUR-Audio-Adapter-Kit/10059150
-
I was wondering if the airline adapters work for line in on the MR-1
Is the spacing the same, or do you need to use a stereo to mono splitter w/ loose tails ?
If so, I found this really nice set >
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-adapTOUR-Audio-Adapter-Kit/10059150
Yea, thought the same. And I tried it, but unfortunately the airline adapter spacing is a bit smaller on the adapters I used. :-\
-
Interesting.
It really sounds like you have a lemon.
yea it seems...
and of course no warranty anymore...
Are you dead set on using this recorder, or are you just stubborn like me, when i wanted to keep using my SBM-1?
Well I´m still using it. Thinking also to exchange the battery, or try to. So cheap mods would help a lot;)
jb
-
I got mine from eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Airline-Headphone-Adapter-1-8-3-5mm-dual-3-5mm-plug-/350416782464?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519677c480
That's probably not the same person I bought it from, but it looks identical.
If you are willing to wait, there are some from Hong Kong that are $1 for 2 pcs.
I was wondering if the airline adapters work for line in on the MR-1
Is the spacing the same, or do you need to use a stereo to mono splitter w/ loose tails ?
If so, I found this really nice set >
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-adapTOUR-Audio-Adapter-Kit/10059150
-
Well, I realize the HOODMAN cards are more $$, but here is my logic >
If you read the .pdf - they are boasting zero failure on all their memory sold in the last 3 years.
I consider that a solid place to start, and remember - these are the 100Mb/s SLC read/write cards
I'm thinking 100% compatibility - yet to be seen
...So if the card is compatible,
I'm going to shoot high and assume I can find (or have made) a higher capacity battery
(working on that)
Then the 2 elements come together - Long run time and error free recording.
so that's what I'm thinkin'
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
me -I found this really nice set >
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-adapTOUR-Audio-Adapter-Kit/10059150
RTD - Yea, thought the same. And I tried it, but unfortunately the airline adapter spacing is a bit smaller on the adapters I used. :-\
--------------------------------
Hey RTD,
I didn't get what you meant. Did you get that exact set and it didn't fit, or another airline adapter similar to it and it didn't fit.
Because tedyun says he knows of ones that fit...
I'm confused... ??? :o ::)
Some fit and others don't ?
Aren't the airline plugs all a standard size, a set format ?
fill me in...
-
Well, I realize the HOODMAN cards are more $$, but here is my logic >
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
me -I found this really nice set >
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-adapTOUR-Audio-Adapter-Kit/10059150
RTD - Yea, thought the same. And I tried it, but unfortunately the airline adapter spacing is a bit smaller on the adapters I used. :-\
--------------------------------
Hey RTD,
I didn't get what you meant. Did you get that exact set and it didn't fit, or another airline adapter similar to it and it didn't fit.
Because tedyun says he knows of ones that fit...
I'm confused... ??? :o ::)
Some fit and others don't ?
Aren't the airline plugs all a standard size, a set format ?
fill me in...
No, I didn´t bought the exact same ones. I got it from Ebay in Canada. They working fine in the plane, but not with the MR1. It needs just a little more space between the plugs (1 or 1,5 mm)and possibly more flexible plastic can fit.
-
The ZIF to CF adapter I used in my MR-1 is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Compact-Flash-CF-Toshiba-IPod-CE-1-8-ZIF-Adapter-/220595019625
Only $3 shipped each from Hong Kong - Took 2 weeks to get them.
-
The ZIF to CF adapter I used in my MR-1 is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Compact-Flash-CF-Toshiba-IPod-CE-1-8-ZIF-Adapter-/220595019625
Only $3 shipped each from Hong Kong - Took 2 weeks to get them.
As I find it hard to keep straight who accomplished what in this mod...
H20 - Is your CF conversion working ?
Please refresh...
At what stage are you in all this ?
thanks
---------------------------------------------------------------
RTD - thanks for the update. That Scosche looked sweet. Real low. DAMN.
--------------------------------------------------------------
tedyun - the airline adapter you posted works / fits perfect ?
-
My CF works up to 24/88.2 with a 60MBps MLC card. When the sampling rate is changed to 96Khz or higher (including DSD) it fails (with truncated files, etc)
I would think running a MLC card rated at 90MBps or higher Write Speed would give increased compatibility and possibly work without issue.
-
Note that I did try a Samsung SLC SSD and this did not work - the speed is much slower (20MBps write)- although it may be a bad SSD.
-
igene -- I have no problems with my adapter. I can believe RTD that it is 1 mm or so misaligned, but I had no problems putting it in. I rarely run it with the adapter these days, so I can't recall. You should just buy the adapter from WalMart, try it and return it if it doesn't fit.
So a high speed (600x) MLC CF card has not been tried.
What I could try is to see if my 300x card (45 MBps) works at 24/88.2. If it fails, then that would add confidence that it is the write speed. If it passes, then it still is unknown whether a 600x card will work.
igene, would you be willing to try a 600x MLC card, or are you set on the Hoodman?
My CF works up to 24/88.2 with a 60MBps MLC card. When the sampling rate is changed to 96Khz or higher (including DSD) it fails (with truncated files, etc)
I would think running a MLC card rated at 90MBps or higher Write Speed would give increased compatibility and possibly work without issue.
Note that I did try a Samsung SLC SSD and this did not work - the speed is much slower (20MBps write)- although it may be a bad SSD.
The ZIF to CF adapter I used in my MR-1 is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Compact-Flash-CF-Toshiba-IPod-CE-1-8-ZIF-Adapter-/220595019625
Only $3 shipped each from Hong Kong - Took 2 weeks to get them.
As I find it hard to keep straight who accomplished what in this mod...
H20 - Is your CF conversion working ?
Please refresh...
At what stage are you in all this ?
thanks
---------------------------------------------------------------
RTD - thanks for the update. That Scosche looked sweet. Real low. DAMN.
--------------------------------------------------------------
tedyun - the airline adapter you posted works / fits perfect ?
-
Well,
I generally like to overbuild, start from the top and work my way down.
That's why I chose the HOODMAN. The X-fer speed matches.
That and they use 100% reliable SSD chips.
(obviously not for their knowledgeable customer relations)
As I see the issue, we are getting write errors due to insufficient transfer rates.
So if the magic # is 100Mb/s, then I would think that selecting a 100Mb/s (or faster)
CF card solves (or resolves) that issue.
Now once we have established that there is no errors recording @ 1bit,
(and repeat the process a few times to be sure)
then we know the problem was the write capability of the card.
There may be some other, yet unknown problem that could be unmasked during the trials.
or that could be it, and I move onto the internal battery.
But I think that that is where I want to start.
Unless you know of another 100Mb/s read/write SLC CF card.
nothing is purchased yet.
-
I'm still skeptical that it is the transfer rates. The Ritek SLC I used is 300x, which has a 45 Mbps speed. My Lexar MLC is also 300x and it failed. So I am still championing the SLC vs MLC, and I am reluctant to buy a 600x.
I haven't had any problems with the Ritek SLC CF card, but it is not field tested yet.
I am open to the possibility that a high-speed MLC card can compensate for the chip incompatibility but it seems like a lot to invest at this point.
So if you try the Hoodman, I would be very surprised if it didn't work. And if it does work, we still haven't resolved the chip vs. speed.
Well,
I generally like to overbuild, start from the top and work my way down.
That's why I chose the HOODMAN. The X-fer speed matches.
That and they use 100% reliable SSD chips.
(obviously not for their knowledgeable customer relations)
As I see the issue, we are getting write errors due to insufficient transfer rates.
So if the magic # is 100Mb/s, then I would think that selecting a 100Mb/s (or faster)
CF card solves (or resolves) that issue.
Now once we have established that there is no errors recording @ 1bit,
(and repeat the process a few times to be sure)
then we know the problem was the write capability of the card.
There may be some other, yet unknown problem that could be unmasked during the trials.
or that could be it, and I move onto the internal battery.
But I think that that is where I want to start.
Unless you know of another 100Mb/s read/write SLC CF card.
nothing is purchased yet.
-
tedyun -"And if it does work, we still haven't resolved the chip vs. speed."
Do you mean the slowest (cheapest) write speed CF card it will write to ?
If that's the case, I'd rather know for sure it will be more than fast enough and write error free.
I'm always looking to save, but if the solution cost more...at least I know it's worry free.
What seems to be happening is each mod test is with a slightly better card than the last.
But each one has fallen short because the speeds were not there or format didn't match.
Well, the technology has caught up to the needs of the mod.
It's just a matter of time till more cards at, or greater than, the 100Mb mark show up,
and at reduced cost. But till that's available, that is what I've found.
I'm open to suggestions too.
Does anyone else know of another 100Mb/s write (SLC) CF card ?
cheaper ? faster ? better ? Steve Austin ?
I can't even afford to buy a cheaper card right now anyway (the deck hasn't even arrived yet)
But when I buy one, it's going to be a well thought out (& overbuilt) long term solution.
Right now, so far, it's the Hoodman RAW 16GB CF
tedyun - Is that what you meant ? or something else ?
the HOODMAN is 675X / SLC
16GB - ~$269. :-\
32GB - ~$460. (ouch!) :o
-
I think SLC is faster at random reads/writes then MLC. I think if you get a fast enough MLC it could make up for this.
The rating is always SEQUENTIAL Reads/Writes. I think the MR-1 was coded/designed in a way that makes writes somewhat random in behavior (such as it is writing to the Project file while it is writing to the Audio file and the buffer is not large enough to cope with the latency of re addressing the Flash memory between the two files)
If the data was streamed to disk in a sequential fashion at the speeds required there should be any issues with corrupt files, etc.
-
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820208498
This one may be an option 90MBps Read/Write for 16GB+ cards
-
If @24/88.2, it writes at 0.5556 Mbps (1 GB/30 min) and @DSD, it writes at 0.7575 Mbps (1 Gb/22 min), then a 90 Mbps should work, since 0.7575 is less than a 50% increase over 0.5556 (which would be 0.8333).
I'll try to use my 300x MLC CF card tonight. If it is a speed issue, and it is scalable, then it should not be able to handle 24/88.2, but work at 24/48. If that happens, then I will go ahead and order the 600x.
Or if anyone wants to volunteer to test the 600x card, my wallet will thank you!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820208498
This one may be an option 90MBps Read/Write for 16GB+ cards
-
since my last post, FEDEX delivered my MR-1
It's plugged into the wall, charging.
It arrived w/ 0% batt. power.
Looks nice - almost like new.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_1816.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_1832.jpg)
I'm not ready to start any mod testing yet.
I ordered the ZIF to CF adapter today.
now I wait...
I'm going to ponder the CF card question.
and wait for the test (whom ever) with the 90Mb/s card.
Eagerly awaiting those results.
The CF card is US ship/delivery. A few days at most.
I can wait a min. for the card.
at least 'till the adapter is nearly here anyway.
I'll open the MR-1 soon and take a look inside, and take some battery measurements.
Also to physically see what I'm dealing with.
-
:clapping:
She's a beaut!
Before you open it and poke around, my biggest advice is to take a piece of scotch tape and tape the Mic/Line and PIP switches to the front part of the case. These switches are not secured to the case and will fall out if you don't tape them. If they do fall out, it's not a problem to align them again, but it certainly saves you time if you tape them.
Also, the ZIF connectors are different between the HDD and the M/B. With the HDD, the latch rotates upwards to release the cable, and with the connector on the M/B, the "handles" on the side of the connector slide horizontally.
If you want, I can post some pics.
since my last post, FEDEX delivered my MR-1
It's plugged into the wall, charging.
It arrived w/ 0% batt. power.
Looks nice - almost like new.
I'm not ready to start any mod testing yet.
I ordered the ZIF to CF adapter today.
now I wait...
I'm going to ponder the CF card question.
and wait for the test (whom ever) with the 90Mb/s card.
Eagerly awaiting those results.
The CF card is US ship/delivery. A few days at most.
I can wait a min. for the card.
at least 'till the adapter is nearly here anyway.
I'll open the MR-1 soon and take a look inside, and take some battery measurements.
Also to physically see what I'm dealing with.
-
Thanks ;D
take your time, but yeah - post the pix !
-
hmmm...I will try to get another airline adapter as my one doesn´t fit. sometimes its good to have a stereo in for some mikes.
-
Recording 1 h 30 min at 24/88.2 was successful using a 300x MLC CF card. Three files were generated, 2x 1 GB, and 1x 700 MB or so. All opened fine in Audiogate, and the PRJ file opened fine too.
I can try a slower card to see if 24/88.2 still works. I have a 133x CF.
If @24/88.2, it writes at 0.5556 Mbps (1 GB/30 min) and @DSD, it writes at 0.7575 Mbps (1 Gb/22 min), then a 90 Mbps should work, since 0.7575 is less than a 50% increase over 0.5556 (which would be 0.8333).
I'll try to use my 300x MLC CF card tonight. If it is a speed issue, and it is scalable, then it should not be able to handle 24/88.2, but work at 24/48. If that happens, then I will go ahead and order the 600x.
Or if anyone wants to volunteer to test the 600x card, my wallet will thank you!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820208498
This one may be an option 90MBps Read/Write for 16GB+ cards
-
I found something VERY interesting >
http://www.transcendusa.com/Products/ModDetail.asp?ModNo=300&LangNo=0&Func1No=1&Func2No=
check out the speed (it's SLC too)
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Nice! Transcend usually has very good prices.
But remember:
SLC = can write DSD, can't prolong battery time
MLC = can't write DSD, can prolong battery time
So there is no advantage of replacing your HDD with a SLC CF card, except for a small increase in battery life.
I found something VERY interesting >
http://www.transcendusa.com/Products/ModDetail.asp?ModNo=300&LangNo=0&Func1No=1&Func2No=
check out the speed (it's SLC too)
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I'm going to work on battery life too
I charged the battery 6 hours. turned it on (batt level full) and scrolled around the menu for
a couple min's. When I checked battery levels, it was down 1 bar.
Does that mean the battery isn't holding a charge ? :(
or does it need a longer charge ?
good news on another front >
I dug thru my bag 'O connectors and found an airline jack - and it fits !!!
(I forgot I had it)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_1844.jpg)
...and why do I get the feeling that it's in backwards...?
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If you're going from an empty battery, it takes a while to charge. I usually leave it overnight.
With the adapter, mine has the input facing the other direction, but it is easy enough to check which way yours should point.
I'm going to work on battery life too
I charged the battery 6 hours. turned it on (batt level full) and scrolled around the menu for
a couple min's. When I checked battery levels, it was down 1 bar.
Does that mean the battery isn't holding a charge ? :(
or does it need a longer charge ?
good news on another front >
I dug thru my bag 'O connectors and found an airline jack - and it fits !!!
(I forgot I had it)
...and why do I get the feeling that it's in backwards...?
-
they are all the same,
so mine should go the other way too.
I'll test the inputs and power later today.
Left it charging all nite.
==========================================
> after running some tests >
- the jack to the left is correct. Otherwise it blocks the 2 outputs.
- My battery IS dying. I charged all nite and rec. for 2 min's and batt. level dropped 1 bar.
- sounds great. This is going to be a great little recorder when the mods are done !
-
Full info on the TRANSCEND CFast CF card (16GB max) >
http://www.transcendusa.com/support/dlcenter/Datasheet/TSxxGCFX500_Datasheet.V03.pdf
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Full info on the TRANSCEND CFast CF card (16GB max) >
http://www.transcendusa.com/support/dlcenter/Datasheet/TSxxGCFX500_Datasheet.V03.pdf (http://www.transcendusa.com/support/dlcenter/Datasheet/TSxxGCFX500_Datasheet.V03.pdf)
It isn't a standard CF card - It uses a SATA interface and not the standard CF/IDE interface
-
It's a new standard based on the CF form, but different connection.
Actually, this may be a good thing.
Perhaps there is a converter made that will fit this card and the deck...?
This is the start of a faster card format, so others may soon be available.
could be worth pursuing.
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This is my battery:
http://www.amazon.com/MACALLY-External-Battery-all-iPods/dp/B000CGG8LW/ref=pd_sim_e_4
They are out of production and a bit hard to find, but it is the only one that seems to work with the MR-1. The problem is that the MR-1 periodically needs a high current, so you need to find one that has over 1 A. Most have 500 mA or less current. I've tried a few. For the low current ones, I keep having to unplug and replug the battery because the on screen battery indicator will switch from "charging" to not charging.
Nice set of pics, tedyun!
So how much time can you get with that battery?
The problem I have, is that it needs to keep supplying enough power (5v or UP, right?) to convince the MR1 that it is plugged in, and all the stuff I've tried so far, including the Korg's own battery pack will power it, but sometimes its charging and sometimes it isn't.
With the 4 AA pack, I can get a solid 2 hrs. + whatever life is left in the internal. In a decent unit, that's 2 hours already, so there you have 4 hrs, but in order to preserve the internal, you want to keep supplying it power so that it doesn't lose its charge except when absolutely necessary.
I hope this battery information will help you, igene, we'll see:
Check how many tapes were made on the unit. Assume that each one drained a 2.5 hour battery.
The MR1 needs a nice 24hr charge before you take it out in the field, which is a huge problem if you are taping 2 nights in a row.
Sometimes I can't get it to charge up completely before I'm out the door for the next night.
That's why the need for an external. (see above about keeping it charged.)
Right now I have a very nice (and slightly large and heavy) Tekkeon 3450 that I got from Rich in the yard sale.
Tested it last night and got 6+hours and the MR1 shows 3 bars afterwards. So it is good at keeping it think it is "plugged in".
The moment you take it out into the field with the internal, the crappy battery begins its demise!
So you'll have to charge it up good and then run it and see how much juice it has.
I'll have to look for one of those adapters at Walmart.
Haven't seen one anywhere until your picture.
-
does anyone know any maintenance codes...
like finding out total hours used etc... ?
-
With the 4 AA pack, I can get a solid 2 hrs. + whatever life is left in the internal.
I got around 4 hours + what the internal provided using 2000 mA Eneloops when I had an MR-1.
-
This is my battery:
http://www.amazon.com/MACALLY-External-Battery-all-iPods/dp/B000CGG8LW/ref=pd_sim_e_4
They are out of production and a bit hard to find, but it is the only one that seems to work with the MR-1. The problem is that the MR-1 periodically needs a high current, so you need to find one that has over 1 A. Most have 500 mA or less current. I've tried a few. For the low current ones, I keep having to unplug and replug the battery because the on screen battery indicator will switch from "charging" to not charging.
Check how many tapes were made on the unit. Assume that each one drained a 2.5 hour battery.
The MR1 needs a nice 24hr charge before you take it out in the field, which is a huge problem if you are taping 2 nights in a row.
Sometimes I can't get it to charge up completely before I'm out the door for the next night.
That's why the need for an external. (see above about keeping it charged.)
Right now I have a very nice (and slightly large and heavy) Tekkeon 3450 that I got from Rich in the yard sale.
Tested it last night and got 6+hours and the MR1 shows 3 bars afterwards. So it is good at keeping it think it is "plugged in".
The moment you take it out into the field with the internal, the crappy battery begins its demise!
So you'll have to charge it up good and then run it and see how much juice it has.
I'll have to look for one of those adapters at Walmart.
Haven't seen one anywhere until your picture.
Since your MaCally battery is hard to find, and expensive...
I ran across this as a good alternative
(5V/5Ah/Li-ion/1Amp output)
http://www.newtrent.com/IMP50D-dual-USB-5000mAh-iphone-battery-p/imp50d.htm
more info >
http://www.amazon.com/New-Trent-Dual-port-IMP50D-Blackberry/dp/B003690Q42/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1295653483&sr=1-4
I'm going to let my batt. charge a full day to see if that's the issue.
Otherwise, I'm working on that internal upgrade solution.
The Walmart adapter may or may not work, but try anyway, you never know.
I'm not going by a Walmart anytime soon.
But you should take your MR-1 to the store and try it out.
I like the way it would sit low on the deck. I'd get one if it fits.
They are $12+tax at Walmart and $7. shipped on eBay.
-
@jb63
So how much time can you get with that battery?
The problem I have, is that it needs to keep supplying enough power (5v or UP, right?) to convince the MR1 that it is plugged in, and all the stuff I've tried so far, including the Korg's own battery pack will power it, but sometimes its charging and sometimes it isn't.
I'm not sure how much run time I get -- I have had it going for around 4 hr with plenty of charge left. I also have the same problem with battery packs - including the Macally - where the battery sign switches from "charging" to not. At this point, I have to unplug then plug the power connector. With the Macally, the frequency of switching off the "charging" is less. Maybe once or twice over a 3-4 hr period. I have tried a Powerbank and Tekkeon, and with both, I am constantly unplugging and replugging the connector. Probably once every 5 min.
With the Tekkeon, my at home tests made me think it would work, but in the field, it wasn't working out so well.
The only other system that works for me is a DVD battery connecter to a voltage regulator. My voltage regulator was made by BJ, but I think the tgakidis boxes should work also.
@igene
The Macallys will appear every once in a while in the YS. You could always by used for $30 from Amazon. Mine is used and it works fine.
That newtrent looks good, and it outputs 1 A, so it should be OK. Unfortunately, you have to buy and try. The Powerbanks that I use are also supposed to output 1 A, but I still have problems in the field.
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Well, I'll be taking out 3 of them with 3 external battery packs next week, so I'll report back.
:-)
Meanwhile, this thread had a decent pic of the battery:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133941
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Still looking for an internal solution... but I found all these externals.
They all match up aprox. in size and output (1A or better)
Some have incomplete information or are sold out, but I added them anyway
Thought I'd share my findings >
http://www.bixnet.com/hicamiexbapa.html
http://www.pcconnectionexpress.com/1/1/87144-lenmar-enterprises-inc-lenmar-universal-power-pack-black-color-5v-7-8wh-li-ion-ppu2100b.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882403001&nm_mc=OTC-Froogle&cm_mmc=OTC-Froogle-_-MP3+/+MP4+Player+Accessories-_-Revolve+Electronics++Inc-_-82403001
http://www.ecrater.com/p/6425367/universal-portable-battery-charger-5000mah#
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400184346820#vi-content
http://www.estocksurplus.com/product_info.php?products_model=SC-029309%20%20%20%20%20%20-MobA
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/universal-usb-battery-with-cell-phone-adaptors-4400mah-5v-8-4v-output-4822
http://underbid.com/merchant/tfloutlet/product/762-9145/UL-UPP/UltraLast_ULUPP_5_V_Lithiumion_Universal_PowerPack_For_Portable_Devices_2400_mAh.html?ref=base
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Do any of you know if supplying too MUCH power is OK?
For example the Tekkeon's lowest setting is 5v, but I could set it to 7v and that might mean that the
Before I ever made the choice for this unit, I devoured this exhaustive piece by guy:
http://www.sonicstudios.com/mr-1revw.htm
quoted from there:
"Deck has momentary high +0.85 amp demands on external power especially during startup even with fully charged battery. AND very quick ~0.75 amp surges (HD access) challenging some external regulated 5 volt sources to drop below full 5 volts needed by the deck.
KNOW THE FOLLOWING: MR-1 shuts down the external supply connection trying its OWN internal battery (if charged enough) if supply voltage drops at any time to ~4.65 volts.
But battery gage still shows charging(!) unless external supply voltage is disconnected, OR external supply drops further to 4.1 volts where MR-1 battery gage shows (no charging) normal 3-bar battery gage display.
So now there's chance of knowing external power with poor load regulation often causes MR-1 to not function at startup, and at times of intensive disk access. Hope users have less problems than before selecting and running MR-1 from 'working' external power supply products in the market."
So I thought that maybe 7v would be of some help. I remember reading a thread here that someone had used a battery that gave too much power and it worked out OK.
still there's more,
jb
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@igene
I have batteries that look almost identical to the DealExtreme, and have the same specs (Variable out, 5V/1.5 A). These are the "Powerbank" batteries. They sounded good, and did well in home tests, but out in the field, they kept switching from "charging" to not. At this point, I unplug and plug, which is kind of annoying, especially in stealth. That being said, I've never run out of juice using these, but I can't recommend them.
@jb63
Someone was feeding the MR-1 directly with 9V from a DVD battery with no problems. I can't seem to find the thread at the moment, but will post if I do.
I'm starting to think H2O is correct that the difference between the SLC and MLC is their Random Write speeds. Using a slower CF card (133x) I can only write 16/44.1, which is 0.1852 Mbps, exactly 1/3 the speed of the 24/88.2 stream that a 400x card can write (and 133x is 3-fold slower than 400x). I think I will try a 600x card. Cross your fingers! I'll report back for sure.
-
Do any of you know if supplying too MUCH power is OK?
For example the Tekkeon's lowest setting is 5v, but I could set it to 7v and that might mean that the
Before I ever made the choice for this unit, I devoured this exhaustive piece by guy:
http://www.sonicstudios.com/mr-1revw.htm
quoted from there:
"Deck has momentary high +0.85 amp demands on external power especially during startup even with fully charged battery. AND very quick ~0.75 amp surges (HD access) challenging some external regulated 5 volt sources to drop below full 5 volts needed by the deck.
KNOW THE FOLLOWING: MR-1 shuts down the external supply connection trying its OWN internal battery (if charged enough) if supply voltage drops at any time to ~4.65 volts.
But battery gage still shows charging(!) unless external supply voltage is disconnected, OR external supply drops further to 4.1 volts where MR-1 battery gage shows (no charging) normal 3-bar battery gage display.
So now there's chance of knowing external power with poor load regulation often causes MR-1 to not function at startup, and at times of intensive disk access. Hope users have less problems than before selecting and running MR-1 from 'working' external power supply products in the market."
So I thought that maybe 7v would be of some help. I remember reading a thread here that someone had used a battery that gave too much power and it worked out OK.
still there's more,
jb
I actually did read (and skimmed) thru most of the info.
based on that...
I'm working on another (custom) external solution that I haven't posted yet.
I'd like an external pack for non-stealth situations.
I found a guy who makes Li-poly & Li-ion power cells.
I gave him the specs - just waiting to hear back.
It might be around $70.
It's a 5V/~8AH (@ 1" thick) battery and the size is almost the same as the MR-1
with a right angle connector.
BTW - it seems 6V is a good amount of voltage to power the deck longer.
I don't know the tolorances, but 1 volt is certainly no issue.
(I wouldn't do 9V, that might smoke the voltage regulator).
I have enough bad experiences with that !
I hate the smell of burning silicon in the morning, it smells like defeat..
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I found a guy who makes Li-poly & Li-ion power cells.
I gave him the specs - just waiting to hear back.
It might be around $70.
It's a 5V/~8AH (@ 1" thick) battery and the size is almost the same as the MR-1 with a right angle connector.
BTW - it seems 6V is a good amount of voltage to power the deck longer.
I don't know the tolorances, but 1 volt is certainly no issue.
(I wouldn't do 9V, that might smoke the voltage regulator).
Well, as far as tolerances go, eventually my unit with 16mins of battery life may get to be the guinea pig.
From the links you posted, this $40 battery:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/universal-usb-battery-with-cell-phone-adaptors-4400mah-5v-8-4v-output-4822
Dimensions: 3.35 in x 2.24 in x 0.83 in
Weight: 11.85 oz
Output: DC 5V/1.5A, 6V/1.2A, 8.4V/0.8A
would allow a set 6v output, which might work, assuming that these batteries would sometimes dip below 5v when set at that.
The MR-1 is 0.9 x 0.7 x 0.3 inches & 2.6 pounds, so that battery would still be bigger.
The pics of tedyun's MACALLY External look good. The cable a bit unwieldy, so I'd want a nice custom job for that. A long & a short one.
If what you're trying to get made would work like that, then that's a good $70.
Keeping it all so compact is nice, but really, since you are only getting, what? 3v phantom power out of the mic in, then most of us will bulk up on mics, preamps or mic power modules, which will expand the footprint and tangle thing up a bit. Right now the units I run have a power cord and a splitter running out of them and that kind of gets messy in your pocket.
(damn! just missed another PMD620 on ebay!)
When I used the MR1 as a backup only to my DAT back in 2008 and the batter ran for 2.5 hrs, it was a nice companion.
I kept it in my breast pocket and while the 2-channel splitter was a little bulky, even with the case it was not in the way.
Now...
Not stealthy at all.
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what is the barrel/connector size for the external DC power on the MR-1 ?
I found another likely candidate >
http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-5V-9V-12V-Portable-Rechargeable-CCTV-Li-ion-battery-/230575701872?pt=Batteries_Chargers&hash=item35af61ff70
The next 3 are an amazing value for the power and size, but you'd have to get or make your own connectors.
I think these batteries have high output, as they are power supplies and not chargers.
There is no output current stated.
5V/4800ma > http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-5V-4800mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-4-CCTV-Alarm-/290495475247?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item43a2e12e2f
5V/5800ma > http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-USB-5V-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-4-CCTV-Camera-/250671000270?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5d27eace
5V/7800ma > http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-5V-7800mah-Rechargeable-Li-battery-Large-Capacity-/330390473319?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item4cecce8a67
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Yeah, I'd advise against that Dealextreme battery. I have those, or at least a clone of those, and if they are anything alike, you will constantly have to check whether it is still charging. If it isn't you have to unplug then plug. I don't understand why either, since it is rated 5V, 1.5 A, so it should be plenty of juice.
I actually use them as an externals for my camera and camcorder, which takes 8.4V.
I could probably shorten the cable for stealth, but I rarely stealth. When I do, it was actually nice to have the pigtail because I could keep the battery my pocket, keep the recorder in my hand, and not have a long cable dangling around. I like the pigtail for non stealth situations too.
I found a guy who makes Li-poly & Li-ion power cells.
I gave him the specs - just waiting to hear back.
It might be around $70.
It's a 5V/~8AH (@ 1" thick) battery and the size is almost the same as the MR-1 with a right angle connector.
BTW - it seems 6V is a good amount of voltage to power the deck longer.
I don't know the tolorances, but 1 volt is certainly no issue.
(I wouldn't do 9V, that might smoke the voltage regulator).
Well, as far as tolerances go, eventually my unit with 16mins of battery life may get to be the guinea pig.
From the links you posted, this $40 battery:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/universal-usb-battery-with-cell-phone-adaptors-4400mah-5v-8-4v-output-4822
Dimensions: 3.35 in x 2.24 in x 0.83 in
Weight: 11.85 oz
Output: DC 5V/1.5A, 6V/1.2A, 8.4V/0.8A
would allow a set 6v output, which might work, assuming that these batteries would sometimes dip below 5v when set at that.
The MR-1 is 0.9 x 0.7 x 0.3 inches & 2.6 pounds, so that battery would still be bigger.
The pics of tedyun's MACALLY External look good. The cable a bit unwieldy, so I'd want a nice custom job for that. A long & a short one.
If what you're trying to get made would work like that, then that's a good $70.
Keeping it all so compact is nice, but really, since you are only getting, what? 3v phantom power out of the mic in, then most of us will bulk up on mics, preamps or mic power modules, which will expand the footprint and tangle thing up a bit. Right now the units I run have a power cord and a splitter running out of them and that kind of gets messy in your pocket.
(damn! just missed another PMD620 on ebay!)
When I used the MR1 as a backup only to my DAT back in 2008 and the batter ran for 2.5 hrs, it was a nice companion.
I kept it in my breast pocket and while the 2-channel splitter was a little bulky, even with the case it was not in the way.
Now...
Not stealthy at all.
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Make sure to find the current on those. If it's under 1 A, I'm pretty sure they won't work (most USB batteries are 5 V, 500 mA). If they are 1 A or more, they may or may not work!
what is the barrel/connector size for the external DC power on the MR-1 ?
I found another likely candidate >
http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-5V-9V-12V-Portable-Rechargeable-CCTV-Li-ion-battery-/230575701872?pt=Batteries_Chargers&hash=item35af61ff70
The next 3 are an amazing value for the power and size, but you'd have to get or make your own connectors.
I think these batteries have high output, as they are power supplies and not chargers.
There is no output current stated.
5V/4800ma > http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-5V-4800mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-4-CCTV-Alarm-/290495475247?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item43a2e12e2f
5V/5800ma > http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-DC-USB-5V-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-4-CCTV-Camera-/250671000270?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5d27eace
5V/7800ma > http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-5V-7800mah-Rechargeable-Li-battery-Large-Capacity-/330390473319?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item4cecce8a67
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I didn't read all 18 pages of the thread so if I'm saying something that's been said, my apologies.... ;D
For external I've always used a Tekkeon MP-3450 with a DC barrel set on 5V, it runs the MR-1 all day in festival situations with no issues(my internal battery was never worth a heap so I always had to run on an external source). I've also run the MR-1 off the USB 5V side on a Tekkeon MP-3450 and run my Mixpre off the DC barrel side at 9V simultaneously. Both devices on 1 battery, always worked fine for me.
J
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getting closer on the internal battery >
check out the size and capacity
I need to take measurements to see how much I can squeeze in the there...
http://www.amazon.com/HTC-DESIRE-EXTENDED-3000mAh-BATTERY/dp/B0047YHK12
from an earlier post
the internal battery of my MR-1 has the following specifications:
3.7V, 2000mAh, ~44g / size : 53 x 38 x 10 mm
I still need the DC connector size
-
The connector is an EIAJ-02
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EIAJ_connector
Same as D8, M1, D100, JB3, etc
-
It's a little too wide, but close!
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133941.msg1801004#msg1801004
How do you connect the contacts on a cell phone battery to wires? Do you just solder wires onto the contacts?
getting closer on the internal battery >
check out the size and capacity
I need to take measurements to see how much I can squeeze in the there...
http://www.amazon.com/HTC-DESIRE-EXTENDED-3000mAh-BATTERY/dp/B0047YHK12
from an earlier post
the internal battery of my MR-1 has the following specifications:
3.7V, 2000mAh, ~44g / size : 53 x 38 x 10 mm
I still need the DC connector size
-
It's a little too wide, but close!
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133941.msg1801004#msg1801004
How do you connect the contacts on a cell phone battery to wires? Do you just solder wires onto the contacts?
getting closer on the internal battery >
check out the size and capacity
I need to take measurements to see how much I can squeeze in the there...
http://www.amazon.com/HTC-DESIRE-EXTENDED-3000mAh-BATTERY/dp/B0047YHK12
from an earlier post
the internal battery of my MR-1 has the following specifications:
3.7V, 2000mAh, ~44g / size : 53 x 38 x 10 mm
I still need the DC connector size
Yes, they get soldered.
I sat on a bench for years soldering circuit boards and fixing gear, so no problem.
I do neat work.
I just wanted to show I was getting somewhere with the search...still looking.
But that type of battery may be the answer.
Hi-capacity replacement battery for a cellphone or a PMP.
I'd just solder and then dress the connection...
should work fine.
H2O - Thanks for the connector size !
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Here's the thread about using more than 5v:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=125404.0
I suspect that 7 is too much, but 6 might be fine.
None of this has to do with the internal, though. Just an external.
If a steady 6v did not overheat after 6 hours or so, I'd say that is the key to keeping the internal "charging" while in the field.
Again, the important part about that is that once the external is done, you are running down your internal, and the only has so many charges before its unreliable.
I am definitely keen on watching igene go on this search for a better internal.
One that could run the thing for 4-5 hours while pulling DSD is really all you would need.
But again, that battery would eventually lose its charge and probably fast when it happens.
One day you'd have 4 hours of record time and the next 2, etc...
That's how my first one went.
Now I feel its important to not actually fully charge > discharge all the time to keep the life in them for when you need it.
(like the spontaneous jam session in the bar after the show when your gear is all stowed away but your MR1 isn't)
But if we could land on a battery that we could easily replace when the time comes (for less than the cost of a new deck) then I wouldn't even think twice. But I'd probably still want an external in a pocket for when the 3 hour mark arrives.
I'm pretty happy with the internal drive, and I can understand the desire to eliminate the moving parts by replacing the HD, but until that can guarantee the error-free writes that the current HD has, then that seems to risky for the primary deck.
BTW, they are now completely out of production, so maybe Korg has some batteries they'd let go in bulk somewhere.
Its not like them to ever release release anything that might help hobyists tinker with their products, but I would love to have a gross of those batteries and be able to pop them out and put new ones in.
In fact, that would be the real way to upgrade this deck:
Remove the battery altogether and cut a slot in the side which would take a pre-charged lithium that fit into it like a memory card.
I realize it sounds crazy, but looking at the size of the battery, it wouldn't be too troublesome if it had some extra hardware on it-- if it had a connection grid that would allow it to snap in and hold, which could be built in the space the battery used to take, then it stuck out the side a little, that wouldn't be too bad. (I guess it would have to be the bottom, though)
You could build a unit to hold 4 batteries and charge them, then you'd have a handful of 2+ hour batteries in your pocket at the show & you could just shut down, pop one out and pop a new one in.
Yes, I realize that's all crazy, but then that's how all of this looked when i started reading it.
Picture something like this:
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/BATCAPMB13/
That would have all your batteries in it.
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I'm taking a chance on an external battery (power supply) & making my own cables.
I ordered all this...(enough parts to make 2 cables) >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250671000270&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CP-2198-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=AE10091-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=AE10636-ND
I liked what taperj said about powering the MR-1 and a Mixpre off 1 battery,
(I have one too) so I'm getting a 5v/12v battery.
[battery $23.56] + [digikey parts/shipped <$10.] = less than $33.
MR-1 dimensions > 12cm X 6.3cm X 2.0cm
battery dimensions > 9.2cm X 6.0cm X 3.0cm
really close !
I'm still working on the custom battery.
I wanted something right now so I can use the deck.
Waiting back for another reply.
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BTW - The EIAJ-02 is the external DC connector - I don't know the internal connector spec but looks like a standard white 2 prong locking connector - You would need to take out the logic board to fully identifty what the connector is.
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BTW - The EIAJ-02 is the external DC connector - I don't know the internal connector spec but looks like a standard white 2 prong locking connector - You would need to take out the logic board to fully identifty what the connector is.
No worries, Just unplug, snip and solder to the new battery.
(I'll post the pics after I do it)
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This external power supply covers a lot.
physical size, power, huge capacity & adapters.
(even has a low power indicator led)
and a decent price for what you get.
(it's actually pretty sick)
http://product.madeinchina.com/wholesale-product-image/3-7V-8800mAh-Universal-Digital-Power-Supply_12896162.shtml
I'm getting closer ~ to the internal size too >
http://product.madeinchina.com/3-7V-3000mAh-Capacity-Battery-Pack-Back-Cover-for_12842545.shtml
this battery is > 5.1cm x 5.0cm x 1.1cm / 3000mah
MR-1 internal battery > 5.3cm x 3.8cm x 1.0cm /2000mah
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I got the parts for the cable, now I'm waiting on the battery.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_3606.jpg)
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600x MLC CompactFlash card fails.
As I previously posted, testing a 133x CF card only allowed recording at the lowest data stream, and it was 1/3 lower than the fastest data stream a 400x card could write, so I was hopeful the data steam/CF card speeds were scalable. I hoped that a 600x card could write a DFF data stream.
I ordered the following card:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WE4HJW
In all my tests, I format the card prior to recording.
My first test was to record 2.5 h recording, and it worked! I then replaced it with the slower card (133x), and verified that the slower card could not (and the slower card couldn't as expected). I then replaced the 600x card and I recorded another 2 h. Everything was working fine.
I then charged the unit overnight in order to perform a battery test. With the battery, what I noticed is that the drain was faster than that of the 133x MLC CF card and the SLC CF card. By 1.5 h of recording, I was down to 1 bar on the indicator. With an SLC, it drops to 1 bar after 2 h of recording. I stopped it at 2 h of recording because I was concerned that it would run out of battery. To my surprise, I received the Drive Error!
I repeated recording with the MR1 plugged in, and again, I received the Drive Error.
I'm stumped at this point, and all I can say is ... thank goodness for Amazon's generous return policy!!!!
Ideas??? Questions???
On a side note, I took the SLC CF modded MR1 out on Sun for a test run. I ran DPA 4021 > Aerco > MR1. In my recording, I get random clicking. It is easily handled by the iZotope RX declicker fortunately. I haven't experienced this with this set up before. I am not sure if it is the mics, preamp, cables or recorder, but I will definitely report back if I isolate the cause to the CF card mod.
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so this new card will be the fastest tested so far.
but it's MLC not SLC though.
I though we established SLC was need to handle this type datastream @ 1bit.
....at least this will verify if the 92Mb/s write is fast enough in MLC or not.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm been doing some thinking about modding (cutting out) the back cover to accommodate a taller battery, or 2 batteries stacked.
Someone mentioned something about that.
I've had devices like cellphones and PDA's that I got an extended battery for (w/ a new back cover).
I was thinking something similar. Find a higher capacity cellphone battery and use the supplied cover to extend and protect it.
It would bulge a bit in the back, but it would be worth it if you got 2X the power.
I'm also concerned about what it would look like completed. I don't want a nasty looking rig.
Just tossing some ideas around.
It's hard to find the right size for a perfect fit (with more juice).
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Well, the question is whether the a fast MLC card will compensate for whatever the difference in the two types of memory is allowing the data to be written on the SLC flash but not the MLC flash.
There was an indication that the speed of the card could allow a larger data stream:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=93710.msg1836981
Here, when I tested a 133x CF, I found that it could handle the data stream of 16/44.1, but not 24/88.2, which was the maximum that a 400x could handle. Because the data stream of 16/44.1 is 33% of the 24/88.2 data stream, and because 133x is 33% slower than 400x, I was hoping the speed and data streams could scale. If you do the calculation, a 600x card SHOULD handle the DFF data stream. But clearly this assumption is wrong.
To really get down at H2O's theory, ie., that the random write speed dictates the data stream compatibility, we need a way to bench mark the random writes of these cards. I found a utility, but I couldn't correlate the measured speeds with the actual data stream (it depends on the size of data chunks it writes). Anyway, the benchmark would only be good if we could somehow test the cards before purchasing. Otherwise, it is academic at this point.
What counts is whether it works or not.
so this new card will be the fastest tested so far.
but it's MLC not SLC though.
I though we established SLC was need to handle this type datastream @ 1bit.
....at least this will verify if the 92Mb/s write is fast enough in MLC or not.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm been doing some thinking about modding (cutting out) the back cover to accommodate a taller battery, or 2 batteries stacked.
Someone mentioned something about that.
I've had devices like cellphones and PDA's that I got an extended battery for (w/ a new back cover).
I was thinking something similar. Find a higher capacity cellphone battery and use the supplied cover to extend and protect it.
It would bulge a bit in the back, but it would be worth it if you got 2X the power.
I'm also concerned about what it would look like completed. I don't want a nasty looking rig.
Just tossing some ideas around.
It's hard to find the right size for a perfect fit (with more juice).
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Has anyone verified any of this with any KORG people...?
Has there been any clues from them ?
What I mean is, has there been any supporting documentation from KORG,
or has this all been trial and error ?
Has anyone written to the right dept or person (engineering/ design)
to find out actual tolerances or requirements for writing data @ 1 bit.
Or basically - anything.
Q : What are the specs for the drive currently in the MR1 ?
Since it's a spinning drive, it's random write,
but what speeds does it write at ?
======================================================================]
I found a nice hard case in my stuff that fits the MR-1 perfectly (w/ some extra storage inside too)
I bought this years ago. It was originally intended for Nintendo DS or GameBoy.
Model # Intec G1860
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_3617.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_3618.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_3619.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_3620.jpg)
added > I did some looking and found these >
http://cgi.ebay.com/Intec-G1860-Lite-Safe-Case-NINTENDO-DS-/230456112854?pt=Video_Games_Accessories&hash=item35a84136d6
http://www.cymaxstores.com/Intec-G1860-Ds-Lite-Safe-Case.htm?ID=31399&Src=CI&SrcID=3277561&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=31399
http://www.dascheap.com/safe-case-for-ds-dsi.html
http://www.d2delectronics.com/Intec-G1860-Safe-Case/Video-Game/Nintendo-DS/DS-Storage-p5912545.html
http://www.clevershoppers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4804
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I pre-order a 32gb Duracell 600x CF card from Amazon for about $62. It is supposed to be SLC (SLC NAND flash memory). Honestly, I don't know when it will come; sometimes those pre-orders have wait time more than 4 months.
http://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Speed-Compact-Flash-DU-CF6032G-C/dp/B004AM6SQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=musical-instruments&qid=1296714527&sr=8-1
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Wow, nice find, if that indeed is a SLC. I would be surprised because the price suggests MLC, but going on the Duracell site, it does say SLC.
Please keep us posted if it works or not!
I pre-order a 32gb Duracell 600x CF card from Amazon for about $62. It is supposed to be SLC (SLC NAND flash memory). Honestly, I don't know when it will come; sometimes those pre-orders have wait time more than 4 months.
http://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Speed-Compact-Flash-DU-CF6032G-C/dp/B004AM6SQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=musical-instruments&qid=1296714527&sr=8-1
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Wow.
That's an amazing price for that.
However, what is the write speed ?
All the info on Amazon and Duracell's site make no mention of write speeds.
...from the ad... >
Duracell Pro Photo High Speed CF Memory Card Features
1. Optimized for rapid-fire photo and video
2. Perfect for the newest digital HD video recorders and DSLR cameras
3. Finest SLC memory and controllers for years of reliable use in the most demanding conditions
4. UDMA optimized card-to-computer download speed when used with UDMA camera and card readers
5. 600x rating gives read speeds up to 90MB/s
I wrote them an email requesting more info.
Great find !
I have noticed that the read speeds are generally higher than the write speeds however.
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I got my adapter in the mail today !
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_3626.jpg)
I hope there is a general realization that finding a permanent answer for anything involves more than just looking at
possible solutions, but indescrimanantly poking holes thru them and look closely at all the possible problems that arise from those 'solutions'.
nothing personal !
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Being a taper by night, scientist by day, I can completely appreciate this statement. I welcome additional minds on this and hope someone else can solve the problem!! You can count on me for full support.
I hope there is a general realization that finding a permanent answer for anything involves more than just looking at
possible solutions, but indescrimanantly poking holes thru them and look closely at all the possible problems that arise from those 'solutions'.
nothing personal !
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"Scientist by day"
I like that and i may have to borrow it
OK, so here's a question that may have been covered, but I don't have time to go digging.
I've been taping DSDIFF, and I have a 2.5 hour recording.
ONE of the files, file 4, in this case, just does not want to write.
I can't copy it from the MR1, and when I open the project, that one is just missing.
Surely corrupt, possibly from writing onto a bad sector on the HD, but how do I try to retrieve it, or at least salvage the data and move the file from the MR1?
Thanks!
jb
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Sorry about no updates...
I'm trying to make some $$ in YS to buy a HOODMAN CF card
It's not going so well ::)
This economy BLOWS !!! :(
note: correction HOODMAN not BUSMAN
I don't know where mind is these days.
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BUSMAN CF card
What is this.....? Chris Busman making cards now?
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*HOODMAN - see correction in previous post - DOH ! :o :P ::)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140486532230&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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I am Not sure about this, but if anyone would like to try...
Sandisk made 64GB SSD (UATA 5000) for Dell laptop, it is SLC - but, a big BUT - it is set as master, I have no idea whether it will work. Although Dell has excellent return policy, I am not brave enough to try. Just sharing info. Good luck.
By the way, my local computer shop ordered a SLC Super Talent SSD 32 GB for me. It is an old stock and cheaper than new one. Don't be afraid to ask, somewhere, some suppliers still have them in stock.
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I tried a SanDisk a while back. The form factor of these SSD drives is a bit too thick for the MR1. I looked at a picture of the UATA 5000 and it looks similar to the one I used (it has a raised round part on the bottom), so I am betting it won't fit.
I am Not sure about this, but if anyone would like to try...
Sandisk made 64GB SSD (UATA 5000) for Dell laptop, it is SLC - but, a big BUT - it is set as master, I have no idea whether it will work. Although Dell has excellent return policy, I am not brave enough to try. Just sharing info. Good luck.
By the way, my local computer shop ordered a SLC Super Talent SSD 32 GB for me. It is an old stock and cheaper than new one. Don't be afraid to ask, somewhere, some suppliers still have them in stock.
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I got my External battery in the mail today.
So now I have :
> External battery (5V/5800maH/12V/3800maH)
> USB power /connector parts (USB w/ sleeve & 1.7mm barrel to ends)
> ZIF to CF adapter
Now I need someone to buy some of my gear in YS, then I can buy the HOODMAN CF card
I'm waiting till all the parts are together before I take the MR-1 apart.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_3979.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_3980.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_3977.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z48/igene_01/100_3983.jpg)
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Oooohhh...
That on/off switch looks like it will be easy to trip!
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I was thinking that myself, but I have a fix for that.
I'm away for a few days,. When I get back I'll post a shot
of what I did. ;D
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someone is looking to buy an MR-1.
Just a heads up in case anyone is looking to sell.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=143052.0
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Problems with the CF-mod! Beware!
I taped moe a few weeks ago, which was my first field test with the CF mod. When I listened to it, the recording had faint but audible "clicks" either in the left, right or in both channels. I thought it could be to digi noise because it was an unbalanced connection going from my Aerco to the MR-1, and it was easily handled by iZotope Declicker.
However I finally got a chance to sit down over the last few days and go through the recording chain. It definitely appears to be a problem with having the CF card in the MR-1. Replacing it with the Mtron SSD resulted in a click-free recording. Even when I don't feed it a signal, there are periodic clicks in the recording. When I feed it an amplified signal, the frequency of the clicks increases.
So a word of caution to you igene, because I know you're planning on dropping a few nickels on that Hoodman. As it stands, I am going back to the SSD.
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That more than just a few nickles.
I'm unemployed, so that's quite a bit for me.
(I've been trying to sell my gear to afford it)
I'm going to do some more searching for a solution.
thanks.
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I got my External battery in the mail today.
Did you ever get a chance to test that external, igene?
Curious as to whether you could get the MR1 to consistently read "charging" or "plugged in" with it.
I just ran a show with a Tekkeon 3450 plugged in securely and I had to keep plugging/unplugging to get it to show connected.
Extremely annoying, but better than no show at all!
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I had shelved the whole project for later.
I got the battery and charged it, put it with all my MR-1 gear - and that's how I left it.
I haven't even made the cable for it yet.
I have all the parts, it just hasn't been a priority for me.
I've recently been busy designing a detachable AKG cap mod.(see mic section)
Before that 2 weeks of clean-out on my property (still ongoing), and so on.
I really want to get back to this soon.
I'll get on this shortly. Maybe in a week or so.
Ahhh, the chaos of life....
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I got my External battery in the mail today.
Did you ever get a chance to test that external, igene?
Curious as to whether you could get the MR1 to consistently read "charging" or "plugged in" with it.
I just ran a show with a Tekkeon 3450 plugged in securely and I had to keep plugging/unplugging to get it to show connected.
Extremely annoying, but better than no show at all!
I thought that was normal behaviour for the MR-1 on battery power - when ever I run the MR-1 that's how it's behaved with my external battery (the charge indicator is on for a minute or two and then it goes to the battery bars) - Only in one situation it appeared not to use the external battery.
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I would say that's acceptable, but I lost half a show because of this glitch when I looked and it had shut down.
It was a back-up rig, so I had another tape to fall back on, but still... OW!
The problem with particular that deck is that the internal only lasts 10mins before shut-down.
I suspect that in order to work successfully with an external, it just need to hold more of its own charge in order to make up for those moments when its not charging or something like that.
I'm going to try setting the Tekkeon to 6v instead of 5 and see if that makes any difference.
At this point, I might as see if it fries the deck. I thought the Tekkeon would see more use, but that thing is huge for a pocket pack, and spring is coming, so it will be up in the yard sale soon if the 6v option doesn't solve the problem.
:-|
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Here's a new error I haven't come across.
I recently made a 2 hour DSDIFF recording and just didn't have time to do the transfer, so I left it on the Korg HD.
About 3 months later I was going to transfer it and one of the 1GB blocks lists its size as Zero Bytes. It's number 2 out of 5, and I can pull the other 4, but not that one. Anyone had this happen or want to try to come up with an explanation or fix for it?
Thanks!
jb
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Here's a new error I haven't come across.
I recently made a 2 hour DSDIFF recording and just didn't have time to do the transfer, so I left it on the Korg HD.
About 3 months later I was going to transfer it and one of the 1GB blocks lists its size as Zero Bytes. It's number 2 out of 5, and I can pull the other 4, but not that one. Anyone had this happen or want to try to come up with an explanation or fix for it?
Thanks!
jb
I haven't had that exact thing happen but does it play on the Korg?
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Nope.
Just gives me the "Error > Exit" option.
It did play when I first taped the show, and I think I may have done a 16/44 transfer just to listen to, but that's hardly the depth I was looking to keep.
It's weird. I'll post a screen shot.
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I had a similar problem when I was experimenting with CF mod, but it was a test run so I chalked it up to the CF mod itself.
Have you tried reseating the hdd cable?
Have you tried connecting it to a PC to see if it sees the file?
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I have two Korg MR-1s and I love the sound recorded. However, reliability has been an issue. One of the replaced units had a problem just as it hit the warranty and was repaired. Now the second is having the same problem. While I'm not sure, I imagine the repair will be in the $150-200 range.
Is it worth repairing or should I apply that toward a new multi-channel recorder?
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What issue are you having?
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No input. I have two, so one, no problem, the other, no signal.
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Never heard of that issue - What are you feeding it?
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Mic output. Usually lav. Otherwise with XLR to unbalanced TRS (R unconnected).
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May have found the problem. One of the cables had a transformer, so the resistance couldn't tell be the wiring. On the balanced side it had +/- (red/white) to one side of the transformer, and ground and the lead from the cable to the other. Ground was connected to the shield which in turn went to the sleeve on a 3.5mm TRS. The problem may be that tip and ring are both linked the the yellow transformer output (there is a buried resistor between the yellow lead and the shield, which is connected to the other side on the secondary. If going into a TS it would have had both leads going to sleeve.
Would that have caused the problem? Would taking a stereo to mono airplane connector and just using the tip side avoid that problem?
With the other jacks the worst would have been connecting negative to ground.
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tested with a 2GB silicondriveII CF card, recorded in WSD till full, played back smoothly. sustained write speed is 6MB/s according to the data sheet, more than enough for the ~672kB/s of stereo DSD64. card is ATA-5 and i have a feeling success in running this mod has more to do with ATA standards than random write speeds or SLC/MLC. will try again with a higher capacity – this card only holds about 48 minutes in 1-bit.
update 16.03.24 – tested a 32GB sandisk ultra 50MB/s CF card with a two-hour WSD recording. recording went well, closing the file went well, playback went well. i'm satisfied that this works. using a generic IDE ZIF adapter bought over amazon.
between this CF card replacement and an earlier battery replacement (EEMB 963450), this recorder feels new and modern again. nothing else in its size that i've seen has balanced inputs, so even imagining a replacement is a tall order even before taking into account binary recording. opening it up i was surprised and impressed by the RF shielding inside. it's a shame the included mic isn't shielded at all.
i owe everyone in this thread a debt of gratitude. i wouldn't have attempted either mod without you all.
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so far, i can only get a CF card to work in software version 1.0.1, the later versions just freeze up on me and none of their updates are worth going back to the original HDD for me so i've downgraded back to 1.0.1, which is still available at korg's support site.
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If you need a battery solution to go with your recorder I can walk you through what's needed to do this external but still wired to internal battery hack that came up with for the MR1 in this thread - https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133941.msg2365005#msg2365005 (https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133941.msg2365005#msg2365005)
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I have a MR-2 which uses 2 AA batteries and a SD card I can sell if that’s helpful.
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If you need a battery solution to go with your recorder I can walk you through what's needed to do this external but still wired to internal battery hack that came up with for the MR1 in this thread - https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133941.msg2365005#msg2365005 (https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133941.msg2365005#msg2365005)
ooh, i like that. i think maybe i'd run a molex out to the edge of the case to do something a little more modular. i've had issues powering through the barrel jack while recording in the past, it'd be good to bypass it.
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i've successfully modded two more MR-1s this way. i had to downgrade each back to software version 1.01 to get it to work. someday, someone good at hex editing may be able to incorporate some changes from the later versions but keep the drive formatting of 1.01. that someone will not be me. till then, there are known adapters, known cards and a known software version that work, to bring the MR-1 more up to speed with the hardware of the present.
for my battery mods, the batteries i had have too large a connector, so i cut the old and new battery cables and spliced the old connector to the new battery. applied heatshrink and it works like a charm.
in combination, these mods cut 30g out of the unit's weight, which takes some getting used to.
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I'd love to see pictures fo these battery mods!
I have a drawer full of MR1s that I don't know what to do with.
They have different amounts of charge left in their batteries and ALL of them want me to use deoxit on the scroll wheel before taking them to a gig.