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Author Topic: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?  (Read 9262 times)

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Offline fobstl

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Re: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?
« Reply #15 on: May 19, 2015, 01:25:17 PM »
  16/48 like it's 1999  :yahoo: 
If you aren't running onto DAT you may as well do 20/48.

I thought about it.  But then I'd be truncating 4 bits--right?  Might as well let the ad1000 do its thing with UV16?  It's been a while.
Yes, if you are planning to listen in 16 bit you may as well let the UV16 do the work for you, it sounds great.

Offline MakersMarc

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Re: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?
« Reply #16 on: May 19, 2015, 01:58:54 PM »
I'd tend to agree,  though I can't recall for sure if the adk truncates at 20 bit or not.
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Offline H₂O

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Re: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?
« Reply #17 on: May 19, 2015, 02:18:17 PM »
AD1000 was a 20 bit converter but supports uv22 to run at 16bit (and sound close to 20bit) - you can set these options using the knobs a switch on the front (it also supports raw 16bit (w/o UV22 engaged)


The AD500e was 18bit and I have no idea if it noise shaped our you just ended up with a truncated signal


The AD500 was 16bit


In today's world you could simply run the AD1000 at 20bit into a 24 bit recorder and the recorder would PAD the missing 4 bits with 0's so you would be able to hear the AD1000 in it's raw form
« Last Edit: May 19, 2015, 02:22:21 PM by H₂O »
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Offline gormenghast

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Re: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?
« Reply #18 on: May 20, 2015, 11:01:30 AM »
I went to charge a old battery and the charger shows "charged".  Is this possible with an old SLA battery that might be dead?  I won't have the new SLA battery for a little while.  Here is the inside of the cover.  What is that on the negative side?  And could that cause the charger to read charged even though the battery might be dead?

A lot of people run a race to see who is the fastest. I run to see who has the most guts, who can punish himself into exhausting pace, and then at the end, punish himself even more.

Offline H₂O

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Re: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?
« Reply #19 on: May 20, 2015, 11:18:25 AM »
You can remove that component in the battery - not really needed - I did this on my old 12v eco charge -  and may be causing the false reading

SLAs only last a few years even if unused (the longest I have heard of one lasting is maybe six years and it sat on the shelf much of that time.)

You probably need to swap out the cell

I am 75% the yellow component is this and there as a protection mechanism:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor

It's also possible that the charger is shot (or needs adjustment or repair) - I had a ecocharge charger go on me years ago but I don't remember the behavior
« Last Edit: May 20, 2015, 11:23:51 AM by H₂O »
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Offline gormenghast

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Re: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?
« Reply #20 on: May 20, 2015, 11:25:21 AM »
You can remove that component in the battery - not really needed - I did this on my old 12v eco charge -  and may be causing the false reading

SLAs only last a few years even if unused (the longest I have heard of one lasting is maybe six years and it sat on the shelf much of that time.)

You probably need to swap out the cell

I am 75% the yellow component is this and there as a protection mechanism:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor

It's also possible that the charger is shot (or needs adjustment or repair) - I had a ecocharge charger go on me years ago but I don't remember the behavior

OK, Thanks!  I guess I'll need a charger too.  I'm not handy with a soldering iron so I'll leave the lid as is. 
A lot of people run a race to see who is the fastest. I run to see who has the most guts, who can punish himself into exhausting pace, and then at the end, punish himself even more.

Offline gormenghast

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Re: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?
« Reply #21 on: June 08, 2015, 02:29:53 PM »
Got my power cable repaired and returned.  Gave it a quick test and the old 12v battery is dead.  Not sure why it's reading charged on the charger.  But the new the battery is working fine so far.  How long does the AD1000 run with the 12v 7 amp battery using P48?  So far, the PMD661 is taking a signal from the AD1000--even at 20/48.
A lot of people run a race to see who is the fastest. I run to see who has the most guts, who can punish himself into exhausting pace, and then at the end, punish himself even more.

Offline MakersMarc

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Re: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?
« Reply #22 on: June 08, 2015, 02:54:26 PM »
I got about 2:45 with 4022s
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Offline H₂O

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Re: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?
« Reply #23 on: June 08, 2015, 03:55:17 PM »
I got about 2:45 with 4022s


I would think:
7Ah / 1.5 A = 4.666666666666666... hours


Per the manual:
 
Other 12 Volt sources
Any good regulated 12 V DC, 1.5 amp linear power supply will sufficiently power the AD-1000. We do not rec- ommend using a switch-mode type power supply. In addition, we do not recommend the use of the TT-1200 table-topPSU designed for the AD-500. The AD-1000 takes more current than the TT-1200 can provide.
   



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Offline H₂O

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Re: Powering The AD1000! Which Batteries?
« Reply #24 on: June 08, 2015, 05:06:48 PM »
I was able to get whole WSP 3-4 hours shows running km140 > ad1000 in the past on a single 7Ah SLA
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