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Gear / Technical Help => Recording Gear => Topic started by: lsd2525 on October 20, 2017, 09:49:55 AM
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SSIA. Not the greatest photo, but you'll get the idea. Part of my M10 screen is "hazy" from abrasion. Is there a safe way to polish this out without making it worse? My first thought was to try to use something like a Mr. Clean magic eraser, but I just don't know. Any tips?
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My M10 from 2010 has been in and out of my pocket so many times and still looks brand new.What are you storing/carrying it in?
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The "tape on frosted glass" approach may work here depending on the degree of abrasion in areas.
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You might search plastic polishing products and techniques.
I just did the DIY bug-spray head-light defog polish trick on a friends car a few days ago. Rubbing with with a DEET containing bug spray and a rag removes most of the UV fogging from the plastic lenses and makes them clear again. Might work for this, but I'd try it on one of the scuffed round parts first to see how well it works before doing the main screen. Its a solvent and melts the plastic slightly during polishing so proceed at your own risk.
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I just did the DIY bug-spray head-light defog polish trick on a friends car a few days ago. Rubbing with with a DEET containing bug spray and a rag removes most of the UV fogging from the plastic lenses and makes them clear again. Might work for this, but I'd try it on one of the scuffed round parts first to see how well it works before doing the main screen. Its a solvent and melts the plastic slightly during polishing so proceed at your own risk.
I tried this approach with the poor man's version on my old scooby: plain ole toothpaste. It worked quite well but took some elbow grease. It's also helpful to apply a UV protectant afterwards.
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I just did the DIY bug-spray head-light defog polish trick on a friends car a few days ago. Rubbing with with a DEET containing bug spray and a rag removes most of the UV fogging from the plastic lenses and makes them clear again. Might work for this, but I'd try it on one of the scuffed round parts first to see how well it works before doing the main screen. Its a solvent and melts the plastic slightly during polishing so proceed at your own risk.
I tried this approach with the poor man's version on my old scooby: plain ole toothpaste. It worked quite well but took some elbow grease. It's also helpful to apply a UV protectant afterwards.
I did the toothpaste thing on my Crown Vic a couple of years ago before they got too bad; works fairly well. I might try that DEET thing on the car before I try it on the M10 ;D
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Some toothpaste is more abrasive than others, acts as fine polishing compound basically.
The DEET solvent technique requires a lot less elbow, give it a try on the Crown Vic.
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I did both my mom's and girlfriends cars a few years ago using one the store bought "kits" from Autozone or somewhere. Basically paid $15 for $0.50 worth of sandpaper and polishing compound. Worked pretty good, for a while. I stumbled on a you tube clip of a guy doing the 2-3 different sandpaper grits; when done, he hit them with clear spray paint. Genius! That's got to work better than any sealer.
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I've had pretty good results cleaning up my plastic watch face with the buffing wheel and polishing compound that comes with most Dremel sets.
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When I worked in the jewelry repair business, we used Novus plastic polish on soft things like plastics, acrylic and even amber jewelry!
It comes in three types, the #1 is the finest but we used the #2 (red label) for everything we did at our shop.
https://www.novuspolish.com
#2 is for fine scratches - I see someone on the Novus website used it to fix his nearly new camera's LCD screen and he was really happy.
For very heavy scratches, they have #3. I never used that but it might be great for motorcycle or boat windshields? I think #3 needs to be finished with#2 afterwards, as it is a heavier abrasive.
It's a liquidy paste, you will probably need only about 10-20 DROPS on a paper towel to fix your screen, maybe 1/4 teaspoon? Rub in small random circular motion for a few moments and check your work. Repeat until it looks amazing, it doesn't take long.
Try not to get it in the edges of the control buttons or off the edge of the screen as it might get trapped there and it's kinda brownish.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41yTtUcIPxL._SX355_.jpg)
from the SDS (safety data sheet)
Skin Irritation Category 2
Eye Irritation Category 2A Skin Sensitizer, Category 1B
GHS LABEL ELEMENTS:
Signal Word: Warning
Hazard Statements:
H315: Causes skin irritation.
H319: Causes serious eye irritation.
H317: May cause an allergic skin reaction.
Precautionary Statements: Prevention:
P261: Avoid breathing vapors/spray.
P264: Wash thoroughly after handling.
P272: Contaminated clothing must not be allowed out of the workplace.
P280: Wear protective gloves and eye protection.
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Thanks all.
Used a deet product on cloudy headlight and it worked in less then a minute.
Used polish cleaner and deet on wife phone and my m10 and it worked, wife phone looks a lot better and cleaned up M10.
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..and free of mosquito annoyances during the entire process I assume!
Good to hear.
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DEET
(snip)
Its a solvent and melts the plastic slightly during polishing so proceed at your own risk.
DEET? Ew, I guess so, outdoors with gloves!? Amazing that it's used topically as a repellent, but Skeeters 'r' bad, mm-kay?!
Safety Data Sheet from: https://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/88715.htm (https://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/88715.htm)
Section 7 - Handling and Storage
Handling: Wash thoroughly after handling. Use only in a well-ventilated area. Avoid breathing dust, mist, or vapor. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. Do not ingest or inhale. Wash clothing before reuse.
...
Personal Protective Equipment
Eyes: Wear appropriate protective eyeglasses or chemical safety goggles as described by OSHA's eye and face protection regulations in 29 CFR 1910.133 or European Standard EN166.
Skin: Wear appropriate protective gloves to prevent skin exposure.
Clothing: Wear appropriate protective clothing to prevent skin exposure.
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http://www.nevrdull.com/
(http://www.nevrdull.com/wpimages/wpefd43e35.jpg)
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Nevrdull says it's for metals. M10 display is "plexiglas" or acrylic or some such.
http://www.nevrdull.com/
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I know a Nevrdull rep. He pretty much uses it on everything except his teeth.
Good stuff, although I don't know how well it would work for this. Like laundry stain removal, best to try in an inconspicuous are first.