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Gear / Technical Help => Microphones & Setup => Topic started by: mfrench on January 14, 2018, 03:23:58 PM
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I've been running small 8" and 6" baffles for a long time. I tried to run my Senn MKE2002 bridged omni binaural mic pair on the small 8" baffle, but, it was an awkward fit at best. So, I've been thinking about building a new baffle.
12" baffle, rigged for both my DPA4060 pair, and, the MKE2002 pair.
And, let me be the first to point out that there is nothing quite like a photo to show that you still need to adjust things a bit.
Anyway,... you get the idea.
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What are the materials?
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12" bamboo embroidery hoop (I'd go with plastic next time, as the connecting point is beefier (live and learn).
Foam kneeling pad foam cut to the diamter of an LP, perfect snug fit. I like the fluid-like density of this memory foam-like product.
The stand mount is a 3/8" fender washer, with a 3/8-16 thread rod connecting ferrule to attach to mic stand, and, 3/8-16 extension for a T-Bar across the top. The extension is just tall enough to thread a t-bar onto, and stops just as it taps the baffle ring.
My cross bars are wood dowels the diameter to fit the pencil eraser cap mic clips. They pass through the baffle via cable tie anchors that have adhesive backing on them. The mounting tabs keep the dowel held firmly, and keep the foam from getting destroyed.
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Nice looking disk baffle. Very clean, professional appearance. I like the construction method using the hoop to secure the single thick layer of dense foam kneeling-pad damping material, rather than laminating thinner sheeps of damping materials to a rigid center disk.
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Thanks, Lee
One thing I have yet to do, and that I've done on the other baffles, is to pin the baffle material to the frame. I drill small holes around the compass points, and use long ball head sewing pins that I bag from Sarges kit; all black pins except for one red one facing forward. It helps a lot in keeping the material centered.
But, like I said,.. and this is silly since its a day old,.. I'd suggest the plastic frames as opposed to this bamboo, as the plastic has a beefier arrangement to close the loop. I saw metal closures with the bamboo frame, and, figured that was better. But compared to the plastic frame of my battle hardened 8" baffle, I'm guessing that the bamboo one will need to be replaced. c'est la vie.
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I should make a disk for my MK5's. Links to source materials? Michaels? I can cut a rectangular notch and stick my unused Vark Bar or Schoeps Bar though it and bet it would work perfectly.
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I got my bamboo hoop at Michaels. Inadequate connector, unless somehow extra support applied; I used zip-ties for the time being. I have them above and below my connecting stanchion (not shown in pics though, as this has evolved).
The Bamboo hoop was cheap, at around $5
I found a heavy duty plastic hoop, with a much heavier connecting point at Hobby Lobby (https://www.hobbylobby.com/Yarn-Needle-Art/Cross-Stitch/Hoops-Frames-Tools/12%22-No-Slip-Hoop/p/36320) for something like $22. I liked its build far better, but its price had me finding comfort in $5 funkiness with zip ties for a bit longer.
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I got my bamboo hoop at Michaels. Inadequate connector, unless somehow extra support applied; I used zip-ties for the time being. I have them above and below my connecting stanchion (not shown in pics though, as this has evolved).
The Bamboo hoop was cheap, at around $5
I found a heavy duty plastic hoop, with a much heavier connecting point at Hobby Lobby (https://www.hobbylobby.com/Yarn-Needle-Art/Cross-Stitch/Hoops-Frames-Tools/12%22-No-Slip-Hoop/p/36320) for something like $22. I liked its build far better, but its price had me finding comfort in $5 funkiness with zip ties for a bit longer.
And the source of the pad?
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It is a kneeling pad from the hardware store. I traced the hoop to the foam pad, and cut it with a serrated steak knife.
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It is a kneeling pad from the hardware store. I traced the hoop to the foam pad, and cut it with a serrated steak knife.
You are a lot more brave than I am. I know that I would cut myself wide open trying something like that. LOL
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work slowly - cut away from yourself.
I tried it with a jig saw, but, it just started wiggling like jello, and blurred the line. So, out came the steak knife. It worked well enough
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Mike have you ever attached a threaded mount to any of your baffles so that you can attach the baffle to your stand using that threaded mount?
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My mounting scheme is all about mounting to the stand. And, even includes a mounting stanchion for another set above it.
i suck with a camera, so bear with me,...
In the first image, IMG018, is my original mount scheme. It is a fender washer (wider diameter washer) that is drilled so that the closure point screw of the hoop passes through the washer. The hoop closure screw is then tightened down onto the washer. This creates a perpndicular mounting point attached to the hoop. THis is early in the devlopment of my baffles, and has since evolved to include the second mounting point.
I use a pair of thread rod connector ferrules to create my mount. I have on on either side of the washer. I pass a section of thread rod through one entirely, and, then into the lower one, only partially. This creates a female stand mounting thread set.
In this second image, you can see the second mounting stanchion that allows for a second array to be mounted above the baffle. You can also see the same in the OP images.
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A non-toothed bandsaw (smooth blade band) would be the prefered way to cut that kind of squishy pad material, but who has access to one of those?
An electric carving knife works well for seat cushion foam, and would probably work well if you have one.
A bread-slicing knife is more or less the manual equivalent, similarly serrated like a steak knife, only larger and straight-bladed.
I've used with a razor knife - the sectional snap-off blade type, fully extended to get a long enough blade. The non-serrated blade makes for a very clean cut but one problem is that the blade is often not really long enough. Be careful if doing this!
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My mounting scheme is all about mounting to the stand. And, even includes a mounting stanchion for another set above it.
i suck with a camera, so bear with me,...
In the first image, IMG018, is my original mount scheme. It is a fender washer (wider diameter washer) that is drilled so that the closure point screw of the hoop passes through the washer. The hoop closure screw is then tightened down onto the washer. This creates a perpndicular mounting point attached to the hoop. THis is early in the devlopment of my baffles, and has since evolved to include the second mounting point.
I use a pair of thread rod connector ferrules to create my mount. I have on on either side of the washer. I pass a section of thread rod through one entirely, and, then into the lower one, only partially. This creates a female stand mounting thread set.
In this second image, you can see the second mounting stanchion that allows for a second array to be mounted above the baffle. You can also see the same in the OP images.
^^
Thanks for the explanation Mike!
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OK,... Sarges moment of, Oh god, we don't have any eggs, in the middle of making a breakfast coffee cake has been averted,... saved by Mokes quick trip to the local market.
This is the most recent mount knock up,....
The mounting point is too weak to hold the load. So, I used zip-ties above and below the closure point, to secure the baffle to the stanchion mount. It holds it securely. The image shows it as looking more contraption-like than it is in real life. That detail is too small to see out in the wild.
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^Thank you. I like that!