Topic: Sound Devices USBPre 2

[NicStage]

oh that's very very nice

any news on a release date?

Imminent. They should be shipping any day now.

[kirk97132]

He even is passing on our suggestions, one of mine was have the unit able to accept external clocking.

This feature has been included for release. Mostly due to discussions here and some feedback from other users as well.

Here's the updated user guide: http://sounddevices.com/download/guides/USBPre2_en.pdf

WOW!  That is awesome.  Thanks a lot for listening Nic.

[kirk97132]

He even is passing on our suggestions, one of mine was have the unit able to accept external clocking.

This feature has been included for release. Mostly due to discussions here and some feedback from other users as well.

Here's the updated user guide: http://sounddevices.com/download/guides/USBPre2_en.pdf

Nic am I reading the manual correctly that the unit can only be locked to an external signal when used with a computer?  IN other words, if I was using two different decks in the field( say two R-44's and want to use the USBpre-2 to sync the clocks that I could not do it in standalone mode?

[NicStage]

Nic am I reading the manual correctly that the unit can only be locked to an external signal when used with a computer?  IN other words, if I was using two different decks in the field( say two R-44's and want to use the USBpre-2 to sync the clocks that I could not do it in standalone mode?

The information in that section referring to computer settings is just stating what is required for sample rate locking when the USBPre 2 is in interface mode. The USBPre 2 will lock to the sample rate of incoming digital signal automatically when in stand-alone mode.

[kirk97132]

Nic, just to be sure that I am being clear....bear with me....the example I'm using is trying to get two decks synced so that there are no drift issues with the clocks.  But I still want the USBPre2 to accept a microphone input.  What I am trying to accomplish is getting the unit to lock onto another clocking signal, while being used as a mic preamp.  Not just to lock onto the digital input from another deck and output that.  So for instance, I'll use the Edirol R-44 for the example.  This is a four channel deckthat can accept spdif in on channel 3 & 4.  And deck that is able to output a digital spdif signal.  So deck 1 has two channels of analog input and two channels of digital spdif input from USBPre2-#1.  Then deck 2 has two channels of analog input and two channels of digital Spdif signal from USBPre2-#2.  Can I take the spdif input from R-44 #1 and input it into USBPre2-#2 as a clocking only signal while still using it as a standalone mic preamp?

Does that make sense?  Thanks in advance...thanks a lot, Kirk

[NicStage]

Nic, just to be sure that I am being clear....bear with me....the example I'm using is trying to get two decks synced so that there are no drift issues with the clocks.  But I still want the USBPre2 to accept a microphone input.  What I am trying to accomplish is getting the unit to lock onto another clocking signal, while being used as a mic preamp.  Not just to lock onto the digital input from another deck and output that.  So for instance, I'll use the Edirol R-44 for the example.  This is a four channel deckthat can accept spdif in on channel 3 & 4.  And deck that is able to output a digital spdif signal.  So deck 1 has two channels of analog input and two channels of digital spdif input from USBPre2-#1.  Then deck 2 has two channels of analog input and two channels of digital Spdif signal from USBPre2-#2.  Can I take the spdif input from R-44 #1 and input it into USBPre2-#2 as a clocking only signal while still using it as a standalone mic preamp?

Yes, you can do this. The input source LED's (that show what input source is selected currently) will work as normal, but when a SPDIF input signal is present, the SPDIF input source LED's will illuminate in addition to the active input source. So if you have an active SPDIF signal coming in and you have both input sources set to mic, both mic input source LED's and both SPDIF input source LED's will be illuminated:



In this same setup, if you switch an input source to SPDIF, it will be indicated by SPDIF being the only input source LED illuminated for that input. Here I switched input 1's source to SPDIF:



This USBPre 2 was in stand-alone mode when I took these shots. The behavior would be identical if it were in interface mode (i.e. connected to a computer as a sound card). The only difference when in interface mode is that the sample rate in the control panel of the computer's OS would need to be set to the same sample rate as the digital signal coming into the USBPre.

[su6oxone]

Nic, thanks for your input in this forum.  Please come back frequently (  ), your input/participation is highly valued and appreciated.

[kirk97132]

Nic, thanks for taking the time to not only explain but post pictures for (me) us.  And I agree, your input and you feedback here are great.  It's a tangible selling point for me that a manufacturer is not just responding but implementing ideas garnered from the discussions.   You set the bar pretty high for other people who would follow your lead.  I cannot wait to get delivery of the pre. 

So gang, while I was originally going to use a voltage regulator on one of my 9V dvd batteries, I am thinking of going another direction.  Mostly because I am looking for a 12V source for my Apogee AD1K.  I leaning towards the battery on flea bay that has 5v, 9V, &12V outputs.  There's been some ok feedback from buyers.   I still might make a 5V step down too since the parts are so cheap.  How are you guys figuring on powering the unit in the field?

[rastasean]

Nic, thanks for your input in this forum.  Please come back frequently (  ), your input/participation is highly valued and appreciated.

x3

I think I know what I want for my birthday!

[WiFiJeff]

I'll use the Edirol R-44 for the example.  This is a four channel deckthat can accept spdif in on channel 3 & 4. 

?

When I run digital-in to my R44 from a V3, it appears as channel 1 & 2 only.  I don't see a way to switch the digital in to 3/4.

Jeff

[andromedanwarmachine]

I would personally go for a 12v cell arrangement with a step down to 5V.

In this way, you have tons of headroom current- it would run for "days", you have an overhigh source voltage-rail to step down separately for powering all sorts of other gear and also you are utilising a worldwide vehicle-standard voltage which might assist with powering in ardous situations...

Depends on your intended use- I carry my gear and rarely put it down but I wouldn't mind the weight because of the advantages.

JimP

[rastasean]

I would be happy if it could just use a 7.2v RC battery.

[SClassical]

Cheap and compact way to power this thing in the field:

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-X-AA-Battery-Holder-Box-1PCS-5V-DC-USB-OUTPUT-NEW-/150509987935?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230b18285f#ht_2085wt_1139

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320518833585&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_1972wt_976

[kirk97132]

I'll use the Edirol R-44 for the example.  This is a four channel deckthat can accept spdif in on channel 3 & 4. 

?

When I run digital-in to my R44 from a V3, it appears as channel 1 & 2 only.  I don't see a way to switch the digital in to 3/4.

Jeff

It was an example not a verbatim quote.  Just substitute 3&4 for 1 & 2 and you get the idea.  The point is now with a USBPre2 you could sync two R-44 so that there are no drift issues.  How cool is that

As for the power step down, I have two things driving my ideas.  1. I need 12 volts for an Apogee AD-1000.  2. I already own 3 DVD batteries.  So stepping it down from 18 volts ( two dvd batteries in series) is most economical way to go.  In fact I have completed that set up, I'll post pictures.    Stepping down a single DVD battery to 5 volts, again, most economical since I don't have to purchase batteries.  I am in the middle of building that item now.  I will post pictures of that when it's done.    If I were to buy a battery I would buy the battery I linked to which would provide both 12 volt AND 5 volt satisfying both of my needs.  If I were to build from scratch, I can see the benefits of stepping down from 12 volts for longer life, but then the regulator will need to be able to dissipate more heat and would require heat sinks of some sort.  Right now the converter I envision will allow for the 9 volt dvd battery ( already own) to be used and power both the 5 volt units and the units I am already powering at 9 volts.  It will have hot swap capabilities and I will probably include a polarity switch since I may use an Edirol unit which would require a center pin negative.   I am trying to not buy more batteries if I can avoid it and know enough to be able to build a voltage regulator.  Here are Pictures of the one for the Apogee.A little hard to see since I heat shrinked thinks to keep them in place and to prevent shorts.  I had to cut down the strain relief to allow room for the voltage regulator to fit inside the XLR housing, so I used some clear shrink wrap to secure it in place........

[kirk97132]

USB POWER!   Finished.  Takes power from 9 volt DVD battery.  Steps it down from 9 volts to 5 volts on the USB plug.  Has pass thru 9 volts.  This set up would allow me to power my MP-2 and the USBPre2 at the same time.  For this one I decided to forgo a polarity switch and the hot swap.  Mostly because I don't really need them.  The SD preamps don't draw a lot of power and I expect to get over 5 hour run times with both units on a single battery.   I already have a battery cord for Edirol units and I have a hot swap set up for my 680. 

Considering I had extra battery cable parts and I happen to have a few of them fancy gold strain reliefs too, my cash outlay was pretty low.  Probably about $12-15, plus my time.  To build it completely from scratch including cable you could probably do it for under $30.  It could also be done with plugs so that you could just stick it inline of your normal battery setup but the plugs run around $3 or $4 each.  There is still lots of room it you wanted to get fancy and includ on/off switch or polarity switch.  You could even put an led to show it's working if you wanted. 

First picture is finished and installed, A quick DOH! moment as I realized I miswired the pass thru.  Luckly an easy fix.  A look of the unit with CORRECT pass thru.  Then some hot glue to secure everything.  And the finished product.