Topic: EDIROL R-44 (PART IV)

[cybergaloot]

Here's what some folks use: http://cgi.ebay.com/New-BeachTek-SVU-1-Compact-Stereo-VU-Meter-Beach-Tek-/250730157575?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a60ae9607
RCA jacks in and out

[cybergaloot]

Looks promising for a number of reasons: http://www.markertek.com/Audio-Equipment/Audio-Interface/Impedance-Matching-Transformer/Sescom/SES-OTLMAX.xhtml?SES-OTLMAX

[Erick del Valle]

Here's what some folks use: http://cgi.ebay.com/New-BeachTek-SVU-1-Compact-Stereo-VU-Meter-Beach-Tek-/250730157575?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a60ae9607
RCA jacks in and out

I think that could be this:

http://www.signvideo.com/vu150_audio-meter.htm

100 hours with one battery and cheaper

Erick del Valle
Santiago de Chile

[Erick del Valle]

I recently stumbled upon someone writing in another forum about the Timecode "capabilities" of the R-44. Since I haven't found anything about his point in this forum (correct me if I'm wrong) but find it quite interesting, here it is: If you record BWF files, you get a tagged freerun Timecode. With a video camera that can record freerun TC and an editing suite that can read it (Final Cut Pro and Avid can do it) you should somehow (I didn't figure out how exactly though) be able to sync all of the video with all of the audio by adjusting the audio with the video TCs (should work with any slate clap).
I opened one of the BWF files recorded with my R-44 in Quicktime, pressed Ctrl+J and activated the Timecode bar. That way I get the freerun TC (though it doesn't look like a real day time code).
This seems to be an important feature for audio for video production.

Wow I do not noticed this, can anybody confirm where is this info?

Thanks in advance!

Erick del Valle
Santiago de Chile

[bhadella]

I had previously reported issues getting the USBPre 2 to work with my Edirol R44.   Found out the issue was entirely on the R44 side.   I've tested my USBPre 2 with another R44 with no issues.

My R44 is on its way back home from Edirol getting the coax in fixed.   During hardware testing they found nothing wrong.   During software diagnostic testing they found a glitch that killed to coax in.   Reflashed via diagnostic testing and it's back up and running.   Glad I didn't break it but was very weird.  1st time the tech had seen that issue.   

[rastasean]

Did they charge for the re-flash?

[bhadella]

Did they charge for the re-flash?

Nope.    They called explain the situation.   If it happens again they would want to send the unit to Japan.

[tgakidis]

Cursious besides the flash media vs. hard drive, What are the differences between the R4 and R-44?  I know there is a team thread, but I though someone could give me the quick low down.  Thanks

The biggest difference, and why I upgraded to an R-44, is that you can only run two channels on the R-4 when running digital in.

[jbell]

Thanks Ted!  I could see that being a hassle.

Cursious besides the flash media vs. hard drive, What are the differences between the R4 and R-44?  I know there is a team thread, but I though someone could give me the quick low down.  Thanks

The biggest difference, and why I upgraded to an R-44, is that you can only run two channels on the R-4 when running digital in.

[cybergaloot]

Talking about reflashing the firmware, KEEP A SD card (you know, like the small capacity cart they sent with the unit). You'll need one of the older cards to reflash a lot of the devices that use SD & SDHC cards. Not just recorders but GPS units, etc.

[iluvatar]

Cursious besides the flash media vs. hard drive, What are the differences between the R4 and R-44?  I know there is a team thread, but I though someone could give me the quick low down.  Thanks

The biggest difference, and why I upgraded to an R-44, is that you can only run two channels on the R-4 when running digital in.

FWIW, I'm pretty sure the R-4 Pro can also record both digital & analog at the same time.

-Dan.

[tgakidis]

correct

Cursious besides the flash media vs. hard drive, What are the differences between the R4 and R-44?  I know there is a team thread, but I though someone could give me the quick low down.  Thanks

The biggest difference, and why I upgraded to an R-44, is that you can only run two channels on the R-4 when running digital in.

FWIW, I'm pretty sure the R-4 Pro can also record both digital & analog at the same time.

-Dan.

[rigpimp]

Love my R-44 but hate the level meters. Always running lower than I want. Anyone have any tricks/tips on how to more accurately read them?

I typically run 140>V3 in via SPDIF on 1 & 2 and then an analog console feed on 3 & 4.  I use the meters on my V3 for accuracy and then on the R-44 match the analog levels to [approximately] match those of my digital IN.

[DSatz]

I just ran a polarity test that I should have run a long time ago--the outcome was OK (whew).

When I make four-channel recordings with my R44, generally I use a Grace Lunatec V3 preamp on the main channels because of its accurate level metering and switchable high-pass filtering. I connect the V3's S/P-DIF (coaxial digital) output to the S/P-DIF input of the R44. It occurred to me that I should make sure that the signal polarity is the same through the V3 as recording through analog inputs 3 and 4 of the R44. So this evening I made a test using an asymmetrical test signal and a splitter cable, and verified that correct polarity is maintained through both signal pathways.

My V3 is rather old, and has been back to the factory for the signal polarity fix-up that was made available several years ago. Newer V3s are produced with correct input-to-output polarity to begin with.

--best regards

[Myco]

Does anybody have the name of a contact in the EDIROL repairs department? I have a question for them. I sent my deck to an "Authorized ROLAND repairshop" who I had gotten the info for from Roland's website for a repair on the phantom power only of my R-44, and the shop totally killed my deck. It doesn't work at all any more, won't power up or anything. I made the mistake of sending it to a ROLAND repair shop as opposed to an EDIROL repair shop I was told by an annoyed EDIROL employee when I called one time. The deck worked fine when I first brought it in, I just couldn't use the phantom power. Now this repair shop says that sometimes when they are checking a deck, when they feed it power to check it that it can fry the deck and they are not responsible for it. I say bullshit they were just supposed to work on the phantom power that's it! I mean, how can you bring a working unit to a repair shop, and they get away with totally killing it and saying that it's not their fault? Does anybody know if this can be true and if there is any precedent for this type of thing? I mean, if you brought your car into the autoshop for a repair they can't kill your car and just tell you sorry, right? Anyway, nobody here should ever send their equipment to Hi-Tech Electronics in Lawrence, MA, they have no idea what they are doing.