Topic: Fostex FR2-le "IN DA FIELD" (fr2le thread, pt 2)

[it-goes-to-eleven]

I would suggest doing some tests with a clean sinewave and gradually increasing levels.. The sinewave makes it easy to see distortion creeping into the waveform.  You might try low and high frequency waves.

[sygdwm]

i aim for -6db and add gain in post if needed at 24 bit. no need to push the thing to 0db. ever.

[cd2go]

I just made a couple of test recordings of the home stereo, constantly bumping the level meters off of 0, with an OL or two. Listening to the recording through a wav editor, I hear a crackle at the OL spots. The rest sounds fine, but the waveform looks like there was a lot of clipping. The side LED was at -3 almost constantly

That sounds exactly like what happened to me during a show while 24-bit recording when I was testing the limits of the trim/gain. I had the mic trim all the way open and the rec level at about 1:00. Got a small crackle at the loudest parts of the recording that went OVER. The strange thing is that for whatever reason it was the left channel that was a couple dB louder, lighting up OVER more than the right, and had the mic peak indicator lit the whole time yet the crackle is only audible on the right channel?? That puzzled me. All considered though it handled pretty darn gracefully as I expected the recording to be completely ruined. Needless to say I won't be running that hot again, ever. 

I've used this deck for about 12 shows so far and have to say that I'm loving it. Congrats to Fostex for the battery options. Currently just using energizer e² batteries and I completely fill up a 4 gig card @ 24/48 (with phantom, no backlight, continuous metering) without the battery dropping 1 bar--very impressive. Been using SanDisk Ultra II with no problems, but have yet to try 24/96 with them. 

-james

[Massive Dynamic]

i aim for -6db and add gain in post if needed at 24 bit. no need to push the thing to 0db. ever.

Yeah, old habits die hard. And I do still plan to run 16-bit at some shows. With my M1 and my iRiver, I know exactly when I have clipped (OVER indicator on the M1, backlight lighting up on the iRiver). I assumed the OL indicator served the same purpose on the Fostex, but I guess not.

I believe the mic trim knobs work as attenuators of the signal from the mic, and the main recording level control knob controls overall recording level. Anyone know if the OL indicator is linked to the mic level? It doesn't seem so from the manual (that's what the mic peak light is for), so there must be an undetermined level where you can be bouncing the levels off of 0, and clipping the waveform, and still not set off the OL indicator. Am I the only one seeing this?

[Jammin72]

i aim for -6db and add gain in post if needed at 24 bit. no need to push the thing to 0db. ever.

This makes sense digitally.  I don't know how the box is wired but if were looking at variable resistors for the pots in an analog world it's better to have less resistor.  Fortunately we have a large test group and a few folks that know what's going on inside the thing.

[willndmb]

the side meters should only be used as a ref point imo
if you want to see where you are really at you should check the top lcd screen

i have watched both and the side are always slightly different then the top
add to the fact that the side goes in -6, -3, 0 you could see -3 lite up but really be at -1

[sygdwm]

the side meters should only be used as a ref point imo
if you want to see where you are really at you should check the top lcd screen

i have watched both and the side are always slightly different then the top
add to the fact that the side goes in -6, -3, 0 you could see -3 lite up but really be at -1

concur.

[aberg]

I use the side meters but try not to let the peaks get over -6 on that meter... which should be fine on the top. Haven't had any clipping issues thus far. YMMV.

[Nick's Picks]

the top meeters are more of a loose range.
from page one:
So you know that if you are recording 24 bit and peaking at -6db, you are in the neighborhood of being -8db to -4db (averaging at -6db, which is the LED segment).  So it gives you an "at a glance" average of your levels.  the low tech approach, you could say.  I think its handy as hell.

due to the layout of the LEDs, -12db , -6db, -3db
so Like I said, if you see -6 lit up, that means your are somewhere around -8db > -4db

[spcyrfc]

i'm probably gonna pick up another battery/charger combo.  right now ive got a "5hr charger" with a switch to toggle between Nimh and Nicd.  i dont know if this will recondition the batts, but i would like to get a charger that will.

suggestions?
thanks

[aberg]

the top meeters are more of a loose range.
from page one:
So you know that if you are recording 24 bit and peaking at -6db, you are in the neighborhood of being -8db to -4db (averaging at -6db, which is the LED segment).  So it gives you an "at a glance" average of your levels.  the low tech approach, you could say.  I think its handy as hell.

due to the layout of the LEDs, -12db , -6db, -3db
so Like I said, if you see -6 lit up, that means your are somewhere around -8db > -4db

Exactly, so the -6 dB peak approach is probably fairly good... if you let it get into the -3 dB LED too much, you *might* run into some clipping...

[tenesejedd]

Here is a recent NMAS show I recorded with this box.

Avantone CK-1 Hypers > Busman T-Mod FR2LE

I'm quite happy considering it was a crappy sounding place to tape.

http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,101921.0.html

[spcyrfc]

what kind of batteries and chargers are yall using?

I have 2 7.2v batts.  one is NiMH the other NiCD.  do i have to change battery type on the menus in the machine?

thanks,
luke

[willndmb]

yes you have to change the battery type in the menu
i use a 7.2 3500 rc and get approx 5-6hrs

[spcyrfc]

From the manual

To operate the FR-2LE with batteries, insert four commercially available AA alkaline, Ni-
Cd or Ni-MH batteries to the supplied battery case and set it to the unit, or set a Tamiya
battery to the unit.

am i correct in thinking i have 2 tamiya batts one in nicd and one nimh?  In which case i would not have to change any settings - correct?

im asking cause my nicd batt only lasts for a few hours whereas the nimh seems to last forever.