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Author Topic: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread  (Read 122245 times)

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Offline bryonsos

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #30 on: December 06, 2011, 03:52:45 PM »
Forgot about this thread when I posted this in Rig Pics the other day:

http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=151839.0
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Offline tim in jersey

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #31 on: December 06, 2011, 05:36:35 PM »
yep, totally agree.  this is an excellent thread.  thanks Tim!!!

No problemo, gents. Hopefully this will get stickied by the mods (hint, hint).

Offline Brian Skalinder

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #32 on: December 07, 2011, 12:25:44 PM »
Good thread!  Rather than have loads of stickied threads at the top of each forum, we've long had a single README1ST post that combines a variety of often discussed topics.  So I've created an "All About Clamps and Extension Poles" section in this forum's stickied README1ST thread, with links to this and a few other threads on the topic.
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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #33 on: December 19, 2011, 10:26:30 PM »
For the manfrotto 649,

1) does the silver stud/screw on top detatch? If so, whats the stud size (hopefully 5/8th standard stud).
2) Assuming yes to the above, has anyone tried a stud with a hex base (still 5/8th standard stud, but has a hex base for locking)? Can you get the stud in far enough to "lock" it without being impeded by the hex base?

I'm trying to go [649 clamp > 396-AB arm > rapid adaptor > 237HD arm] for a specific venue which has a parallel/rectangle support structure (so superclamping is not optimum). I'm tempted to buy the 649 but I'd like to verify some stuff first.

3) Is there anything better than the 649 that I can buy new (likely to need it soon) that fits the above requirements? I know johnw didn't like the 649, I swear I was there when his broke, so I figured I'd ask.
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Offline tim in jersey

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #34 on: December 19, 2011, 11:10:34 PM »
Here's a first for me. Clamped to a clamp this past weekend.

Offline flipp

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #35 on: December 20, 2011, 12:28:30 AM »
For the manfrotto 649,

1) does the silver stud/screw on top detatch? If so, whats the stud size (hopefully 5/8th standard stud).

Nondetachable 3/8-16


Quote
2) Assuming yes to the above, has anyone tried a stud with a hex base (still 5/8th standard stud, but has a hex base for locking)? Can you get the stud in far enough to "lock" it without being impeded by the hex base?

The post will recess into the sleeve far enough to get a double-ended stud in the sleeve and the set-screw will lock it in. Sorry, no hex end stud here to check whether it will slide in the "sleeve".


Quote
I'm trying to go [649 clamp > 396-AB arm > rapid adaptor > 237HD arm] for a specific venue which has a parallel/rectangle support structure (so superclamping is not optimum). I'm tempted to buy the 649 but I'd like to verify some stuff first.

3) Is there anything better than the 649 that I can buy new (likely to need it soon) that fits the above requirements? I know johnw didn't like the 649, I swear I was there when his broke, so I figured I'd ask.

If the support structure is too large for a superclamp perhaps a small bar clamp would attach to the structure allowing you to attach a second (super or windtech c) clamp.

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #36 on: December 20, 2011, 08:04:24 AM »
For the manfrotto 649,

1) does the silver stud/screw on top detatch? If so, whats the stud size (hopefully 5/8th standard stud).

Nondetachable 3/8-16


Quote
2) Assuming yes to the above, has anyone tried a stud with a hex base (still 5/8th standard stud, but has a hex base for locking)? Can you get the stud in far enough to "lock" it without being impeded by the hex base?

The post will recess into the sleeve far enough to get a double-ended stud in the sleeve and the set-screw will lock it in. Sorry, no hex end stud here to check whether it will slide in the "sleeve".

So it an extend, but does that come out so I can put a different stud in it or is it that it doesn't come out, but does go deep enough I can stick something over top of it and lock it?

If the support structure is too large for a superclamp perhaps a small bar clamp would attach to the structure allowing you to attach a second (super or windtech c) clamp.

Maybe, but I'd still need the extra clamp in that case for the 396AB arm. If I can find a C-style clamp that accommodates the "manfrotto light stud system" than I'd do it, but otherwise I'm up to a standard heavy duty generic C clamp and just put my super off of that which I'd rather avoid if possible.

On the positive side, at least I know that the 649 is probably not what I'm after.

Here's a first for me. Clamped to a clamp this past weekend.

I've done that before, both premeditated and spontaneous. A surface is a surface as long as it's solid and you don't exceed weight restrictions.
"This is a common practice we have on the bus; debating facts that we could easily find through printed material. It's like, how far is it today? I think it's four hours, and someone else comes in at 11 hours, and well, then we'll... just... talk about it..." - Jeb Puryear

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Offline flipp

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #37 on: December 20, 2011, 09:03:05 AM »
Quote
Quote
2) Assuming yes to the above, has anyone tried a stud with a hex base (still 5/8th standard stud, but has a hex base for locking)? Can you get the stud in far enough to "lock" it without being impeded by the hex base?

The post will recess into the sleeve far enough to get a double-ended stud in the sleeve and the set-screw will lock it in. Sorry, no hex end stud here to check whether it will slide in the "sleeve".

So it an extend, but does that come out so I can put a different stud in it or is it that it doesn't come out, but does go deep enough I can stick something over top of it and lock it?

The post is not designed to come out - but it can with some manipulation. If you want to use a stud with either no or different threads it would be easier to recess the post far enough into the sleeve and insert stud of your choice than to remove the post as there is a spring loaded pin designed to keep the post in place. It appears easy enough to slide something in the sleeve to keep the pin depressed to remove the post but not having done so I can't tell how easy it would be to prevent loss of the spring and pin once the post is removed nor how easy it would be to get the post back in the sleeve later.

The post is designed for a limited amount of travel. Each end is tapered then has a lip before the 3/8 stud on the top or the 1/4-20 socket on the bottom is reached. That spring-loaded pin mentioned above applies enough pressure to the side of the shaft and follows the taper to prevent the post from sliding past the lip.

It sounds like the 649 is not the solution for this situation.

One possible solution, though it will involve several thread adapters or the correct stud, is to get a Panavise 851 adjusting knuckle. Screw it into a super clamp or the post base on the 649 and then adjust to whatever angle you want. One of these is always in my bag. If you go the Panavise 851 route I suggest taking it to a hardware store and replacing the Allen head setscrew with a thumscrew as the Allen wrench is very easy to lose.

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #38 on: December 20, 2011, 09:26:49 AM »
The Manfrotto double articulated arm (http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-396B-Section-Articulated-Bracket/dp/B000MWWXJ2) is a real lifesaver for me in a local venue here where the only taping spots of any kind are on either side of the board, and therefore off-center.

run a split - one on each side of the board :)

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #39 on: December 20, 2011, 10:05:56 PM »
One possible solution, though it will involve several thread adapters or the correct stud, is to get a Panavise 851 adjusting knuckle. Screw it into a super clamp or the post base on the 649 and then adjust to whatever angle you want. One of these is always in my bag. If you go the Panavise 851 route I suggest taking it to a hardware store and replacing the Allen head setscrew with a thumscrew as the Allen wrench is very easy to lose.

unfortunately no, the issue is with the clamp/vice end, not the exit strategy. I'm trying to clamp onto what is about a a 1/4" x 4" metal beam. I can get the super around it, but having a clamp grip designed for flat surfaces is really optimum since I can't get the entire beam inside the jaw (it would just be a pinch point).

but yeah, the 649 doesn't seem to cut it. I think I'll visit the local hardware store and see what they have for generic C clamps since it looks like I'll be clamping off of my clamp in a strange xzibit type way.
"This is a common practice we have on the bus; debating facts that we could easily find through printed material. It's like, how far is it today? I think it's four hours, and someone else comes in at 11 hours, and well, then we'll... just... talk about it..." - Jeb Puryear

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Offline ScoobieKW

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #40 on: December 20, 2011, 10:58:23 PM »
On my iPod touch but google Mathellini clamps from Mathews flat clamps with baby pin. Largest can open 6 inches
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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #41 on: December 20, 2011, 11:04:41 PM »
On my iPod touch but google Mathellini clamps from Mathews flat clamps with baby pin. Largest can open 6 inches

getting warmer (since the stud would be an improvement for clamping), but still have to use the super on that. I need a flat clamp (which the mathews is) that can receive a stud, not send one (as in this example).
"This is a common practice we have on the bus; debating facts that we could easily find through printed material. It's like, how far is it today? I think it's four hours, and someone else comes in at 11 hours, and well, then we'll... just... talk about it..." - Jeb Puryear

"Nostalgia ain't what it used to be." - Jim Williams

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #42 on: December 20, 2011, 11:15:42 PM »
Is the 396ab bar fixed male on both ends? I was picturing using it like my 099b pole which is male/ female
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Offline tim in jersey

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #43 on: December 20, 2011, 11:31:44 PM »
Page/Flipp,

Please post pics when you get this straightened out.

I'm a visual-learner. The text dialog is doing nothing for me even though I've read it numerous times...

I used to do some rigging/lighting and a visual cue might jar something loose...

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Re: Clamp-aholics. The ultimate clamping and rigging team thread
« Reply #44 on: December 20, 2011, 11:53:06 PM »
Is the 396ab bar fixed male on both ends? I was picturing using it like my 099b pole which is male/ female

yes, it's male 5/8" stud on both ends, but one end has a hex lock on it for superclamp rotation locking (in addition to the superclamp's exit lock screw).

You can use it without the hex lock, I've done it before, but you have to find something that will accept and screw lock against a standard stud.

Page/Flipp,

Please post pics when you get this straightened out.

Sure, I get the last component if I was going to use the superclamp this week and I'll post pics probably thursday or Friday. The arm is in the car at the moment otherwise I would now.
"This is a common practice we have on the bus; debating facts that we could easily find through printed material. It's like, how far is it today? I think it's four hours, and someone else comes in at 11 hours, and well, then we'll... just... talk about it..." - Jeb Puryear

"Nostalgia ain't what it used to be." - Jim Williams

 

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