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Gear / Technical Help => Ask The Tapers => Topic started by: ricola on February 03, 2014, 10:53:19 AM
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I just got 2 DPA 4060 very cheap but unfortunately with a 3pin Lemo connector (Probably for the Sennheiser wireless system).
I don’t know if there any adapter available to connect it with a 3.5mm stereo mini jack.
I will use this DPA’s together with a SP-Preamp (sound professionals with 1/8” stereo mic input and 9vdc plugin power) and Sony M10.
I just saw a adapter at the german Thomann store but for my taste very expensive. Also I don’t know if that will work?
http://www.thomann.de/pt/sennheiser_eladapter.htm
Is it possible to cut the Lemo connectors and soldering it into a 3.5mm stereo connector like this??
http://www.thomann.de/de/miniklinkenstecker_bis_35_mm.html
If so, anyone know how to do that soldering? I’m just a newbie for this...
Thanks for your help and suggestions!!
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I had this done at a local music store to my 4061's (2 lemos to a single 1/8"), only cost $15. I wouldn't buy an adaptor unless you are planning on using the lemos at some time (preaching at church? ???)
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I would have someone who knows what they are doing do it -- Ted Gakidis or darktrain here can probably do it.
I would keep the original connectors -- they're more stable and the resale value of the mics will be better if the original connectors (I assume you have microdots, not lemos) are included.
For that matter, I'd consider getting a different preamp that worked with those connectors.
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I think microdots would no problem...but this version have the 3pin Lemo connector, like this. You can get this for 1oo€ immidiately....I think this is a quite cheap option??
Maybe thats the reason you will get this DPA Mics so cheap, because nobody use this Lemo version (unless you have to work with a wireless system).
http://www.ebay.de/itm/DPA-4060-Lavalier-Mikrofon-/221366454888?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Audio_Hi_Fi_Mikrofone&hash=item338a780a68
However I think with a 1/8" connector you can use this Mic in the same way for stealth recording.....
To buy or use an adapter was just an idea, but I prefer a "hard change", because I don't need that Lemo connector.
If I understand correct, the music store cuts the lemo and solder the 2 cables into a 1/8"? Thats exactly what I need!
So maybe it is the best way to go in the next Electronic/Music store?!
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I think microdots would no problem...but this version have the 3pin Lemo connector, like this. You can get this for 1oo€ immidiately....I think this is a quite cheap option??
Maybe thats the reason you will get this DPA Mics so cheap, because nobody use this Lemo version (unless you have to work with a wireless system).
http://www.ebay.de/itm/DPA-4060-Lavalier-Mikrofon-/221366454888?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Audio_Hi_Fi_Mikrofone&hash=item338a780a68
However I think with a 1/8" connector you can use this Mic in the same way for stealth recording.....
To buy or use an adapter was just an idea, but I prefer a "hard change", because I don't need that Lemo connector.
If I understand correct, the music store cuts the lemo and solder the 2 cables into a 1/8"? Thats exactly what I need!
So maybe it is the best way to go in the next Electronic/Music store?!
If they had the microdots I'd be in favor of keeping the connectors as they are decent and worth keeping and spending some $$ on an adapter which is what I did. In this case, I agree probably worth getting them reterminated to 1/8" as a pair to a single plug. Will work very well for stealth stereo recording in that mode.
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DPA makes threaded Lemo adapters which screw into the stock coaxial microdot, but the used stage mics that I've gotten a hold off were directly terminated to Lemo connectors. If that's the case the Lemo connector shaft is crimped directly onto the mic cable. But double check to make sure these aren't just adapters screwed on to microdots.
I prefer using a microdot>adapter 'Y' cable>stereo-mini to keep the stock dots on the 4060 mics I've bought new. When I picked up a handful of used 4061 at a good price with crimped on Lemos I was tempted to keep those on there since they are very nice trouble-free connectors much superior to a stereo mini plug. But I needed a stereo mini output on them and the individual Lemos are somewhat bulky and heavy and I didn't have the mating connector parts anyway, so I just I chopped off the Lemos, selected the closest matched pair and soldered them to a stereo mini.
The wiring is straight-forward- shield/grounds of both mics collected and connected to sleeve, Left signal to tip, Right signal to ring. The shield/ground weaves are easy enough to manage once you tease out and trim back the yellow kevlar reinforcement fibers, but stripping-back, handling and correctly soldering the super thin signal wire at the cable core is difficult. Unless you are practiced at handling and soldering super tiny wires, I suggest getting someone skilled to put the new connector on for you, lest you set yourself up for frustration trying to do it along with a high potential for future intermittency down the road during a recording.
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DPA makes threaded Lemo adapters which screw into the stock coaxial microdot, but the used stage mics that I've gotten a hold off were directly terminated to Lemo connectors. If that's the case the Lemo connector shaft is crimped directly onto the mic cable. But double check to make sure these aren't just adapters screwed on to microdots.
I prefer using a microdot>adapter 'Y' cable>stereo-mini to keep the stock dots on the 4060 mics I've bought new. When I picked up a handful of used 4061 at a good price with crimped on Lemos I was tempted to keep those on there since they are very nice trouble-free connectors much superior to a stereo mini plug. But I needed a stereo mini output on them and the individual Lemos are somewhat bulky and heavy and I didn't have the mating connector parts anyway, so I just I chopped off the Lemos, selected the closest matched pair and soldered them to a stereo mini.
The wiring is straight-forward- shield/grounds of both mics collected and connected to sleeve, Left signal to tip, Right signal to ring. The shield/ground weaves are easy enough to manage once you tease out and trim back the yellow kevlar reinforcement fibers, but stripping-back, handling and correctly soldering the super thin signal wire at the cable core is difficult. Unless you are practiced at handling and soldering super tiny wires, I suggest getting someone skilled to put the new connector on for you, lest you set yourself up for frustration trying to do it along with a high potential for future intermittency down the road during a recording.
Thanks so much for all your help guys!! I'm sure it is the best to find someone who has expierience with soldering such thin signal wires into a single 1/8"stereo plug. I'm afraid that I cannot do that by myself. But it is imo the only chance to use this two DPA's in a stealth way together with my usual equipment. I'm recording regulary with much "bigger" condenser mics like Oktava Joly Mod, Rode NT5 (Body Mod und Michaels new MJE384 capsules - with fantastic results!!), AKG 460/CK61, 62, AKG C451E/CK1, Neumann KM184, KM84, Sennheiser MKH406, Haun-MBHO603/M200 or Beyerdynamik MCE903.
The DPA is a new expierience for me but I need a more "portable set" when I'm not able to transport all the "bigger cases" with phantom power and Stereo bar, etc....
So in this way I was wondering how the "stealth DPA" will sound for example against a Oktava Joly Mod....
Thanks again!!
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Just bought two DPA 4060 microphones with the Lemo3 connectors.
Does anyone got a wiring diagram to put the mics on one 3,5 jack before i start cutting?
Think I have to put the "Hot" wirers on the tip and the ring and combine the "Cold" and "Ground" on the sleeve...
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those are basically a (very thin) center conductor and a shield. not the easiest to solder due to the fine size but you won’t have any problem identifying the conductors
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^ This.
Think I have to put the "Hot" wirers on the tip and the ring and combine the "Cold" and "Ground" on the sleeve...
These are 2 wire microphones. The wire is coaxial. Cold/Ground is the shield and easy to handle. The central signal/V+ conductor is very thin as noted making it difficult to solder. The white thready stuff is aramid (kevlar) providng tensile strength. Trim it back cleanly as it can easily mess with soldering.
Pair wiring to TRS plug:
Left central wire to tip.
Right central wire to ring.
Combined shields to sleeve.
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i would unsolder the wires from the lemos and resolder them to the stereo 1/8" like gutbucket said. the hardest part is stripping the rubber or whatever is on the outside of the wire without breaking the wire. you need a good set of wire strippers that have various cutting diameters. you also have to have good eyes or a powerful magnifying lens to see everything up close. also thin solder. cutting the kevlar strands is also difficult, you need a sharp cutting instrument. of course you have to power them somehow. i use the coresound power supply and his wiring method and connectors.