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Offline rayr0683

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HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« on: February 28, 2010, 09:53:57 AM »
Hello All,
                Im new here, and wanted to get some help. I have a Sony WM-D6C Pro Walkman.  I am in need of a Microphone for it. And being new, wanted to get something decent, but affordable. I missed out on a Sony ECM-909A for $25.00, and now am left wondering where to go next??  I wanted something that would work well with the unit, like I have read that the ECM-909 does. Can anyone help me out, and point me in the right direction?? I appreciate it. Thanks, Ray

Offline skelly14120

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2010, 11:02:02 AM »
 ::) um ... are you serious ?
I checked the thread to see it this was posted in the 1990's sure enough it was not .That stuffs a little out of date .You can find digital recorders from $120-$399 (Edirol R-09hr) is what I use google it if youre unframilar .No tape flips ,easy transfer to the computer with the SD card and no quality loss from playback .As for the mic spend a bit more go with the church audio CA14s and the st9100 preamp youll be shocked at the quality you get.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2010, 11:17:59 AM by skelly14120 »
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Offline acidjack

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2010, 01:40:14 AM »
I don't see anything wrong with the D6... analog is um, not the latest and greatest thing, but if you put the right mics into it it'll still sound good.

I would avoid the 909a entirely, and frankly, any entry-level sony mic.

The Church CA-11 is about the least expensive decent quality mic set. The CA-14s are better.  There are also the SP-CMC-4 (AT U853) and SP-CMC-8 (AT 943) from Sound Professionals in that price range. 

Make sure that whatever you buy, you get a "battery box" or preamp as well. 
Mics: Schoeps MK4V, MK41V, MK5, MK22> CMC6, KCY 250/5, KC5, NBob; MBHO MBP603/KA200N, AT 3031, DPA 4061 w/ d:vice, Naiant X-X, AT 853c, shotgun, Nak300
Pres/Power: Aerco MP2, tinybox v2  [KCY], CA-UBB
Decks: Sound Devices MixPre 6, Zoom F8, M10, D50

My recordings on nyctaper.com: http://www.nyctaper.com/?tag=acidjack | LMA: http://www.archive.org/bookmarks/acidjack | twitter: http://www.twitter.com/acidjacknyc | Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/acidjacknyc

Offline skelly14120

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2010, 05:15:12 PM »
i dont see the point honestly
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Offline rayr0683

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2010, 09:22:52 PM »
Hey,
        Thanks for your reply. The last thing I needed was a pompous reply like the previous one. I asked a question regarding analog tape machine, which I personally prefer. I know that I can buy a Mini Disc if I wanted. But that wasn't my question. I wanted an answer to the question I posted. Not a history lesson. He can have his convienent 1's and 0's.....and I staye with my nice warm analog.  I am still running 4 Reel to Reels, and have no problem doing so....and yes, front end is a VPI Turntable, with ZETA Tonearm, and several good cartridges. I just seem to hate digital.  So, Im looking for good buy in Mic's that would work with my WM-D6C.....and Im a newbie, so I didn't want to go jumping into the best mic's out there. Im still learning here. I appreciate your taking the time, to analyze my situation, and recommend some mic's. I look on ebay, at all the Sony Mic's, and I dont know what is entry level, and what isn't.  I also looked into an Audio Technica Pro 24 Mic...it has the proper connector on the end of the cord. But Im open to anything you guys may suggest. You know far more than I do. Just keep in mind, I do prefer analog to digital. The place that services the WM-D6C has some Marantz Mini Disc units fo sale, that retailed for $850.00 and he is selling the last 8 or so, for $250.00, but I just dont wanna go there. I just want a good sensitive Mic, Thank You....Ray





I don't see anything wrong with the D6... analog is um, not the latest and greatest thing, but if you put the right mics into it it'll still sound good.

I would avoid the 909a entirely, and frankly, any entry-level sony mic.

The Church CA-11 is about the least expensive decent quality mic set. The CA-14s are better.  There are also the SP-CMC-4 (AT U853) and SP-CMC-8 (AT 943) from Sound Professionals in that price range. 

Make sure that whatever you buy, you get a "battery box" or preamp as well.

mfrench

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2010, 09:34:42 PM »
Nice deck. I've made many really nice recordings with one.
I'd suggest a componentized system of a mic pre (or power box), and a pair of mics, rather than a single point stereo mic that is intended to gather news bytes and speech.

i dont see the point honestly

some people like analog.

mfrench

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2010, 09:42:33 PM »
Hey,
        Thanks for your reply. The last thing I needed was a pompous reply like the previous one. I asked a question regarding analog tape machine, which I personally prefer. I know that I can buy a Mini Disc if I wanted. But that wasn't my question. I wanted an answer to the question I posted. Not a history lesson. He can have his convienent 1's and 0's.....and I staye with my nice warm analog.  I am still running 4 Reel to Reels, and have no problem doing so....and yes, front end is a VPI Turntable, with ZETA Tonearm, and several good cartridges. I just seem to hate digital.  So, Im looking for good buy in Mic's that would work with my WM-D6C.....and Im a newbie, so I didn't want to go jumping into the best mic's out there. Im still learning here. I appreciate your taking the time, to analyze my situation, and recommend some mic's. I look on ebay, at all the Sony Mic's, and I dont know what is entry level, and what isn't.  I also looked into an Audio Technica Pro 24 Mic...it has the proper connector on the end of the cord. But Im open to anything you guys may suggest. You know far more than I do. Just keep in mind, I do prefer analog to digital. The place that services the WM-D6C has some Marantz Mini Disc units fo sale, that retailed for $850.00 and he is selling the last 8 or so, for $250.00, but I just dont wanna go there. I just want a good sensitive Mic, Thank You....Ray





I don't see anything wrong with the D6... analog is um, not the latest and greatest thing, but if you put the right mics into it it'll still sound good.

I would avoid the 909a entirely, and frankly, any entry-level sony mic.

The Church CA-11 is about the least expensive decent quality mic set. The CA-14s are better.  There are also the SP-CMC-4 (AT U853) and SP-CMC-8 (AT 943) from Sound Professionals in that price range. 

Make sure that whatever you buy, you get a "battery box" or preamp as well.

nice table. I'm a fellow wax and shellac geek.
You ought to look into our team vinyl thread - good folk.
I agree with the suggestion towards the Church Audio mics and power/preamps.

Offline skelly14120

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2010, 10:08:47 PM »
 :D hey sorry i thought someone was pranking the board I understand how it is because i was the same way when digital photography first came around I prefered to use my pentax slr then some piece of crap digital camera.
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Offline acidjack

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2010, 11:46:01 PM »
So, to summarize, I would still say:

1. Avoid Sony - virtually any Sony mic product.
2. Consider any of the following small mics in the $150-350 range, depending what type of recording you want:

Up close:
Coresound Binaurals (scoff all you will, but I think these sound amazing with the D6)
Sonic Studios DSM-6S/L (again, always loved the analog + HRTF mic sound.  The Sonics are a better build, but more money - over $500)
Church CAFS-omnis (best bang for buck)

Not necessarily as close/more forgiving of bad circumstances:
SP-CMC-4
SP-CMC-8 (both of these last two also offer the advantage of omni/card/hyper patterns and are more versatile)
Church CA-11
Church CA-14 (either Church mic being best bang for the buck)

Pair any of the above (except Sonic/Coresound, which have proprietary powering systems that they can sell you) with any Church or Sound Professionals battery box.

Any of the above will give you a good start that will make recordings (tapes!) that you like.  You can always upgrade from there.
 
I personally always found the D6 to add a nice "color" to the sound that you don't get with digital gear. Obviously it adds headaches.  But used properly, wow, it is a nice sounding piece of gear.
Mics: Schoeps MK4V, MK41V, MK5, MK22> CMC6, KCY 250/5, KC5, NBob; MBHO MBP603/KA200N, AT 3031, DPA 4061 w/ d:vice, Naiant X-X, AT 853c, shotgun, Nak300
Pres/Power: Aerco MP2, tinybox v2  [KCY], CA-UBB
Decks: Sound Devices MixPre 6, Zoom F8, M10, D50

My recordings on nyctaper.com: http://www.nyctaper.com/?tag=acidjack | LMA: http://www.archive.org/bookmarks/acidjack | twitter: http://www.twitter.com/acidjacknyc | Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/acidjacknyc

Offline rayr0683

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2010, 11:18:24 AM »
Thanks very much for taking me serious, and understanding my situation.  I can understand SKelly thinking it might be a prank, sorry to come off as if pissed, but with the Analog Tape thing, I feel like those of us into Tape, be it reel to reels, cassette, etc....seem to be like Leppers on an Island, only understood by eachother.  I too have a pretty Nice Nikon N-80 SLR Camera, best I could afford, and I dont have a Digital SLR....I do have a Point and Shoot Nikon Cool Pic 7.8 Megapixel, which works for me. I like shooting with my Nikon N80, but if I could afford, would love a Nikon Digital SLR....be able to swap lenses out, so thats nice.

               But back to my WM-D6C...I dont understand Powerboxes....If your trying to be Portable, and carrying least amount of stuff as possible, why does one need a Powerbox/Preamp??  I notice the Microphone Input Jack, on the Sony WM-D6C says Plug In Power...Doesn't this mean that it applies power to the Microphone itself?? I seriously dont understand this part.  But your suggestions sound nice, as I look them up. I see that the Church Audio is out of Canada...so, I guess must be gotten via the Internet. I wasn't sure if Guitar Center, or Sam Ash carried anything that might work well for me?? I have 2 of these stores close by. But just dont know much about Mic. Quality...which is what brought me here.  I will be glad to check o0ut the Turntable Forum on here, I didn't notice it yet, but I just joined. I dont know if there is anything further on Tape, maybe even in the Archives?? But the Microphone is my main priority right now, I was itching to get started...as far as what I wanted to record.....I would say, a sensitive Mic..to record outdoor sounds, maybe some Nature Sounds, etc...and possibly some of the Local Concerts, sponsored by Radio Stations, which are free, they have them every so often, and many times, quality Acts...Richard Thompson, Alot of Older Classic Rock Artists come by...so, Id like to try some of that stuff...that would be the mix of my recordings.  Thank You, Ray





So, to summarize, I would still say:

1. Avoid Sony - virtually any Sony mic product.
2. Consider any of the following small mics in the $150-350 range, depending what type of recording you want:

Up close:
Coresound Binaurals (scoff all you will, but I think these sound amazing with the D6)
Sonic Studios DSM-6S/L (again, always loved the analog + HRTF mic sound.  The Sonics are a better build, but more money - over $500)
Church CAFS-omnis (best bang for buck)

Not necessarily as close/more forgiving of bad circumstances:
SP-CMC-4
SP-CMC-8 (both of these last two also offer the advantage of omni/card/hyper patterns and are more versatile)
Church CA-11
Church CA-14 (either Church mic being best bang for the buck)

Pair any of the above (except Sonic/Coresound, which have proprietary powering systems that they can sell you) with any Church or Sound Professionals battery box.

Any of the above will give you a good start that will make recordings (tapes!) that you like.  You can always upgrade from there.
 
I personally always found the D6 to add a nice "color" to the sound that you don't get with digital gear. Obviously it adds headaches.  But used properly, wow, it is a nice sounding piece of gear.

Offline su6oxone

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2010, 11:39:24 AM »
I notice the Microphone Input Jack, on the Sony WM-D6C says Plug In Power...Doesn't this mean that it applies power to the Microphone itself??

The plug-in power of your WM-D6C (which I'm not familiar with btw) will supply some amount of power, usually in the 3V area, whereas many mics may need more (5V or so) to be properly powered.  Some mics may do with what's provided by your deck though.  Your best bang for your buck mic is probably the Church Audio CA-11 mic, which may need more power though, but you can get that either with the Church Audio 9100 preamp or any battery box (see soundpro's website: soundprofessionals.com).  Try the yard sale forum to see if you can get these used to save some more $$$ (you can probably get both the CA-11 and 9100 for $150 or $125 for the CA-11 with a batt box).

mfrench

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #11 on: March 02, 2010, 11:55:01 AM »
Ray,

The D6C deck was never intended to record music, though, it does a nice job with it.
They were intended to use for gathering news sound bytes in the field, and for convenience. The Sony mics match the power supply well enough, but are not that good of a mic for quieter, sensitive recording; and pretty much suck for anything loud and amplified. They are intended for a reprter to shove in someones face for comments.
There is an inherent issue with the mic preamp, and its "power-in", and that is that the power-in makes it too sensitive to use with outboard condensor mics that require larger voltage. When that signal voltage hits the preamp, it overloads, or does what we call brickwalling. This brickwalling is an electrical voltage overload of the preamp circuitry, and it presents itself as a truncated wav form, and in distortion in the drums and bass in loud amplified music or passages.

So, to counter that, we opt for the line-in rather than the mic-in. The line-in bypasses the overly sensitive mic preamp and is a far cleaner input source.
The problem with this is that the line-in has no built in amplification, so the incoming signal will be very weak, and your s-n-r will be very high in the noise side -- not what you want with analog.
So, to counter the weak signal, you use an outboard preamp to give gain to the signal prior to the line-in input of the recorder.
With cassette analog, its crucial to get this gain amplification in the mastering process due to generational degradation in analog.

In real loud music, you might not need any amplification for going line-in, and might be able to run the D6 line-in at levels that require a bit of attenuation below level 10, but quieter music and ambient nature recordings will need to have a bump up in the levels. Back before we had portable mic preamps, we'd run line-in at level 10, and attenuate down from there, depending on how loud the music/impulse was.

At any rate,... almost any quality outboard mic preamp will be more suited for music an quiet circumstance than the onboard D6 mic pre; Its not bad, but its not great.
Church Audio has a very small mic preamp that he sells. Give that direction some serious consideration. It might cost a bit more upfront, but, you'll save a step in the upgrade bug.

Yu can get in touch with Chris Church, here at ts.com. Hes a member in good standing.
This is one of his ads in our retail section:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=130844.0
« Last Edit: March 02, 2010, 12:06:56 PM by mfrench »

Offline rayr0683

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2010, 12:30:34 PM »
Thanks for the informative replies. I really am learning, I dont know any of this stuff. But let me ask you something?  If you use a preamp, like from Church, and one of his Mic's.....and then, use the Line IN, instead of the Mic Input..can you still monitor sound through the headphones?? Or are you then stuck looking at the single Red LED Meter to  monitor recording level?? I liked having the ability to go into Record Pause, and monitoring the sound via my headphones.  Would I be able to do that??  I appreciate your help in this.  Thanks, Ray


Ray,

The D6C deck was never intended to record music, though, it does a nice job with it.
They were intended to use for gathering news sound bytes in the field, and for convenience. The Sony mics match the power supply well enough, but are not that good of a mic for quieter, sensitive recording; and pretty much suck for anything loud and amplified. They are intended for a reprter to shove in someones face for comments.
There is an inherent issue with the mic preamp, and its "power-in", and that is that the power-in makes it too sensitive to use with outboard condensor mics that require larger voltage. When that signal voltage hits the preamp, it overloads, or does what we call brickwalling. This brickwalling is an electrical voltage overload of the preamp circuitry, and it presents itself as a truncated wav form, and in distortion in the drums and bass in loud amplified music or passages.

So, to counter that, we opt for the line-in rather than the mic-in. The line-in bypasses the overly sensitive mic preamp and is a far cleaner input source.
The problem with this is that the line-in has no built in amplification, so the incoming signal will be very weak, and your s-n-r will be very high in the noise side -- not what you want with analog.
So, to counter the weak signal, you use an outboard preamp to give gain to the signal prior to the line-in input of the recorder.
With cassette analog, its crucial to get this gain amplification in the mastering process due to generational degradation in analog.

In real loud music, you might not need any amplification for going line-in, and might be able to run the D6 line-in at levels that require a bit of attenuation below level 10, but quieter music and ambient nature recordings will need to have a bump up in the levels. Back before we had portable mic preamps, we'd run line-in at level 10, and attenuate down from there, depending on how loud the music/impulse was.

At any rate,... almost any quality outboard mic preamp will be more suited for music an quiet circumstance than the onboard D6 mic pre; Its not bad, but its not great.
Church Audio has a very small mic preamp that he sells. Give that direction some serious consideration. It might cost a bit more upfront, but, you'll save a step in the upgrade bug.

Yu can get in touch with Chris Church, here at ts.com. Hes a member in good standing.
This is one of his ads in our retail section:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=130844.0

Offline acidjack

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2010, 12:47:36 PM »
^^ Yes, the line in works the same as the mic-in in terms of being able to monitor and the level meters. The only difference is that there is no power being supplied to the mics (because the mics are powered by the battbox).

Assuming you are recording anything that is even remotely loud, you absolutely must have a power supply.  My first rig was a D6C and Coresound mics, and I made the mistake of trying the version without the outboard power first... it was worthless.
Mics: Schoeps MK4V, MK41V, MK5, MK22> CMC6, KCY 250/5, KC5, NBob; MBHO MBP603/KA200N, AT 3031, DPA 4061 w/ d:vice, Naiant X-X, AT 853c, shotgun, Nak300
Pres/Power: Aerco MP2, tinybox v2  [KCY], CA-UBB
Decks: Sound Devices MixPre 6, Zoom F8, M10, D50

My recordings on nyctaper.com: http://www.nyctaper.com/?tag=acidjack | LMA: http://www.archive.org/bookmarks/acidjack | twitter: http://www.twitter.com/acidjacknyc | Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/acidjacknyc

mfrench

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #14 on: March 02, 2010, 01:26:41 PM »
Another thing with the D6C, is that you'll want to run it with the first and second LED's as your signal and average peak, with the occasional flickering of the third LED on your most serious impulses - not constantly lit, but flickering at the peak of the impulse. You never want to see the fourth and fifth lights.

If you are using the mic-in, you never want to set the record level knob below level 4. If its requiring going below that point, you're brickwalling, and need upstream attenuation, or, to be using line-in.
Brickwalling manisfests itself as a constant "on" of the first two LED's, and maybe more depending on how hard you're stuffing it. You'll want to see the LED's dynamically dancing rather than staying on.
« Last Edit: March 02, 2010, 01:31:41 PM by mfrench »

Offline rayr0683

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #15 on: March 02, 2010, 01:51:50 PM »
Guys, Im beginning to understand the need for the battbox, between Mic and D6C...but Im not sure of the answer here. the D6C is not a 3 head Cassette Deck, so, would I still be able to Monitor Sounds through my Headphones, prior to actually recording?? Like being in Record Pause...and hearing the sounds Im going to record?? I can do that, if I go straight into the Mic. Input with a Microphone now.  But, if I use a Battbox, between, and then go to the Line Input...can I still Listen to Sound I want to record, prior to hitting the Record Button??  If im in  Record Pause??  I like being able to hear what Im going to record, prior to hitting the actual record button to engage. I realise after that, I can then look at the LED's to monitor, and hopefully still listen to recording through my Headphones.  Will I be able to do this?  Listen through Headphones?  Thanks, Ray






Another thing with the D6C, is that you'll want to run it with the first and second LED's as your signal and average peak, with the occasional flickering of the third LED on your most serious impulses - not constantly lit, but flickering at the peak of the impulse. You never want to see the fourth and fifth lights.

If you are using the mic-in, you never want to set the record level knob below level 4. If its requiring going below that point, you're brickwalling, and need upstream attenuation, or, to be using line-in.
Brickwalling manisfests itself as a constant "on" of the first two LED's, and maybe more depending on how hard you're stuffing it. You'll want to see the LED's dynamically dancing rather than staying on.

mfrench

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #16 on: March 02, 2010, 01:59:51 PM »
You'll be hearing the processors, and not what is going onto tape. You're correct, its not a three head deck. You'll be able to get some headphone monitoring via both mic-in and line-in, regardless.

Depending on what you're recording, loud music for instance, you might not be able to hear anything anyway. Again, its a convenience feature built into the deck, and not intended for an audiophile level of satisfaction in playback or monitoring - its just enough to get the job done.

Its a bit finicky, this portable analog thing.  Once you get a bit of experience with the deck, it becomes second nature.
« Last Edit: March 02, 2010, 02:02:02 PM by mfrench »

Offline rayr0683

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #17 on: March 02, 2010, 05:40:25 PM »
Well,
        As my first experience with the sound of high fidelity, I was 15, and never had any nice stereo at home. I was working as a dish washer/busboy. Making $2.10 per hour. I was in Center City Philadelphia, PA...there was a store, several of them, that sold lighters, cameras, boomboxes, and the new thing at the time, walkmans.  The guy called me over to the counter, and said listen to this. He had a Sanyo M4440 version of walkman. I put on headphones, and was blown away. The demo tape, had a song called "Cool Night" and 80's hit. But the sound was awsome to me. I saved up, and bought it.  It had a feature, that I found by accident. I used to take a train, called the El...elevated train.  Real Noisy, and I looked kinda strange with a Walkman on, headphones, etc... Not many people ever had one then, 1981.  Anyway, I hit a button, that I wasn't aware of, called "TALK-LINE"....

         The unit had a Talk-Line Feature....there was a small built in Microphone, like you see on any taperecorder, the flat small Mic. with slots at the top, but it didn't Record.  What happened was, the Microphone would record and amplify the ambient sounds around me, and play them through the headphones. The feature was intended so that, if someone wanted to speak to you, while you were listening to music, you could press the Talk-Line Button, and the sound of the person speaking to you, would come through the headphones, loud and clear. This was so that you didn't have to take off the Headphones, to be interrupted.  The sound was amplified from a very good distance away. I found it really neat. I was able to hear people on the train talking, and they were far away. Some of them would actually be talking about me and my walkman.LOL....But after 1982, this feature was dropped off of all walkmans.  But, when I put a Microphone in the Mic. Input on my WM-D6C....the same thing kind of happens. I can hear sounds very far away. But I must be in the Record Mode, and either recording, or have the tape paused, with the Record Button pressed in, and the Record Level adjusted to a proper level.  So, this is why, I was hoping to be able to monitor sound via headphones, when I want to Record the Nature Sounds, that Id like to do. Rather than just have to look at the LED Meters....because then I dont know what Im recording, just that something is being recorded, due to Meter Movement. So, for the Nature Outdoor Sounds that I want to Record, Id like to hear via headphones, and know what Im recording. I have done this with an old Microphone that I have, and the WM-D6C...so I know it can work, and understand, that Loud Music probably would be difficult to hear via headphones.  Am I correct about this??  And does anyone remember the Talk-Line or HotLine Feature that was on the very early Walkmans, both Sony, Sanyo, Craig, Grundig...etc...?? This was my very beginnings to getting into HiFi.  Thanks, Ray





You'll be hearing the processors, and not what is going onto tape. You're correct, its not a three head deck. You'll be able to get some headphone monitoring via both mic-in and line-in, regardless.

Depending on what you're recording, loud music for instance, you might not be able to hear anything anyway. Again, its a convenience feature built into the deck, and not intended for an audiophile level of satisfaction in playback or monitoring - its just enough to get the job done.

Its a bit finicky, this portable analog thing.  Once you get a bit of experience with the deck, it becomes second nature.

mfrench

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #18 on: March 02, 2010, 06:42:42 PM »
In reading your post, I was struck by how you might enjoy omni mics, and some of the variations of the binaural techniques, which are essentially baffled omnidirectional microphone techniques. This is basically having the mics fairly close together and isolating them from each other with various baffles - some being artificial heads, others being foam disc baffles, or even your own head. They're really nice recordings, and quite amazing through headphones, but still retain speaker playback qualities.

Do some research on Jecklin Disc and the OSS technique, HRTF, and baffled omnis

Offline Shadow_7

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #19 on: March 03, 2010, 01:06:29 AM »
You could just test your line in monitoring features.  Lots of devices other than mics let you run line out (CD players).

One quirk I'd be weary of on said tape machine.  Most of these originate from pre-cell phone days.  And are therefor NOT shielded from those signals.  I've been archiving my dads old reel to reel (playback only) to CDs.  3 hours per tape (1.5 hours per side).  I live in the country and still can't seem to keep the cell signal out.  Most times I end up letting it run at those wee hours to be safe.  And either turning off the cell phones in the house, or putting them several rooms / walls away.  2 tapes down, probably 20 more to go.

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #20 on: March 03, 2010, 09:59:22 AM »
Hello,
              Im confused by your situation.  I have a standalone CD Recorder, and I have recorded/archived many of my Open Reel tapes to CD's and never had any kind of interference. I wouldn't even know what cell phone interference sounds like. I have gone from any of my Open Reel decks, to my Audio Research sp9 Preamp, and recorded tapes on the open reel decks to my Pioneer Standalone CDR, and no intereference at all. I only use economy priced Monster Cable RCA's out of Open Reel to CDR at the preamp, and there is perfect recordings. No noise at all, even if I have my cell phone nearby. And we have 3 cell phones in the house. I also live in a more country type area, in New Jersey, between Phila, PA and Atlantic City,NJ......no issues with noise.  Ray






You could just test your line in monitoring features.  Lots of devices other than mics let you run line out (CD players).

One quirk I'd be weary of on said tape machine.  Most of these originate from pre-cell phone days.  And are therefor NOT shielded from those signals.  I've been archiving my dads old reel to reel (playback only) to CDs.  3 hours per tape (1.5 hours per side).  I live in the country and still can't seem to keep the cell signal out.  Most times I end up letting it run at those wee hours to be safe.  And either turning off the cell phones in the house, or putting them several rooms / walls away.  2 tapes down, probably 20 more to go.

Offline rayr0683

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #21 on: March 03, 2010, 10:11:12 AM »
I will try to look more into what you are suggesting.  Did you remember what I meant, by the old Talk-Line that was attached to a built in Microphone on the Original Walkmans??  Those cheap Mic's really picked up alot of sounds, from all directions. I was impressed with that feature.

         As for your latest suggestions, would you then be suggesting different Microphones than before?  It seems alot of work, to set up foam baffles in an outdoor situation, between mic's.  If you ever saw the movie "BlowOut" with John Travolta, he played a Sound Man, right here in Philadelphia, and he recorded sounds for movies, such as night recording of Owls, and different animals....plus doors closing, etc...all kinds of sounds, that would later be inserted into Movies. In the Movie, he used a portable Nagra III, with a Long wand style Microphone, and he listened to the sounds through his headphones. In a smaller scale, this is what I was doing with that original Sanyo Walkman, but I was only hearing the sounds, in my headphones, since the Sanyo Walkman didn't Record. But my WM-D6C does record, and I have heard sounds through the headphones, with a cheapo mic. I had laying around, that went to an old, portable battery operated Reel to Reel machine, probably from the 1960's or so.  Not near the quality of the Mic's that you are recommending to me. This is the kind of things I like to record.Aside from the Concerts, which are few and far in between.  Thank You, Ray



In reading your post, I was struck by how you might enjoy omni mics, and some of the variations of the binaural techniques, which are essentially baffled omnidirectional microphone techniques. This is basically having the mics fairly close together and isolating them from each other with various baffles - some being artificial heads, others being foam disc baffles, or even your own head. They're really nice recordings, and quite amazing through headphones, but still retain speaker playback qualities.

Do some research on Jecklin Disc and the OSS technique, HRTF, and baffled omnis

mfrench

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #22 on: March 03, 2010, 10:33:32 AM »
I'd suggesed Church Audio.
Chris builds mics in different pickup patterns, cardioid, and omnidirectional.
Cardioid is a hemispherical pickup pattern. Omnis are an orb, or 360ยบ pickup pattern.
With cards, you depend on spacing, and microphone axis offsets to get stereo imaging.
With omnis, you get imaging via spacing or baffling. Baffling the mics keeps them closer together, which helps control time phasing issues of the signal arriving at two spaced mics at different times - the baffle adds coherency because the time delay is far less than with spaced mics.

These stereo patterns are why you don't want an inexpensive single point stereo mic, as the multiple patterns are so much more functional; and it makes the single point stereo mic very limiting.

You suggest that setting up a baffle might be difficult.
Not at all.
This is my own version of the Jecklin Disc / OSS technique (Optimum Stereo Signal). Around here, we call them j-discs, because they very from the extremely stringent parameters of the OSS technique.





At any rate,... this baffle is 8" diamater, made from a plastic embroidery hoop, scrap foam, and a few hardware store bits. The spreader bar is a piece of dowel and the mic clips are pencil erasers. Cheap, and extremely functional.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2010, 10:43:08 AM by mfrench »

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #23 on: March 03, 2010, 11:15:34 AM »
^ which mic's are those? 
mkh8040>aerco mp-2>pcmd-50
PFS: AKG 414xls

Record Local

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #24 on: March 03, 2010, 11:17:33 AM »
dpa 4060's

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #25 on: March 03, 2010, 11:39:28 AM »
If you have any questions about my gear feel free to ask.. You have got some good advice here. Its always hard to know what to get lots of options but you are in the right place for good answers.

Chris
for warranty returns email me at
EMAIL Sales@church-audio.com

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #26 on: March 03, 2010, 12:35:59 PM »
Sounds to me you're more interested in obtaining something with the talk-line feature...in which case it seems as if you're mostly concerned about how your Sony deck can be morphed to achieve that feature. 

If you want to use your recorder as a recorder of music and ambient sounds, then the suggestions being provided are the way to go because that's what the Sony deck is designed for.  If you want to use it as a talk-line device, then my suggestion would be to seek out something portable that's geared specifically around that feature.  I'm sure they're out there.  'TVEars' comes to mind, although I know that's not the specific product you're looking for.

The people on this website are experts in helping people to record music and ambient sounds...not so much on using devices such as TVEars.

My two cents worth.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2010, 12:41:10 PM by tonedeaf »

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #27 on: March 03, 2010, 12:56:06 PM »
Not exactly, I want to be able to record, the sounds as you say....but being able to monitor it via my Headphones, which the WM-D6C actually did, when I plugged the cheapo Mic into my Mic Input Jack, and listened through my headphones. I was just concerned if this would still work the same way, through my headphones, if I was using the Line Input on the WM-D6C instead of the Mic Input.  Since that seems to be the way I will end up recording with the Mics and Battery Box. Or Preamp.  Ray

      Even when I record on Open Reel, I still monitor the sound, via my headphones or speakers, not just by looking at the VU Meters. That is what I want to achieve. And I know that everyone here knows more than I do. I am not doubting anyone. Just wondering if I will have different results monitoring with the Line Input, instead of the Mic. Input.  Either way, its not a 3 head deck, but I still was able to monitor sound, via the Mic. Input and microphone. Thanks, Ray





Sounds to me you're more interested in obtaining something with the talk-line feature...in which case it seems as if you're mostly concerned about how your Sony deck can be morphed to achieve that feature. 

If you want to use your recorder as a recorder of music and ambient sounds, then the suggestions being provided are the way to go because that's what the Sony deck is designed for.  If you want to use it as a talk-line device, then my suggestion would be to seek out something portable that's geared specifically around that feature.  I'm sure they're out there.  'TVEars' comes to mind, although I know that's not the specific product you're looking for.

The people on this website are experts in helping people to record music and ambient sounds...not so much on using devices such as TVEars.

My two cents worth.

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #28 on: March 03, 2010, 01:03:15 PM »
You could just test your line in monitoring features.  Lots of devices other than mics let you run line out (CD players).

One quirk I'd be weary of on said tape machine.  Most of these originate from pre-cell phone days.  And are therefor NOT shielded from those signals.  I've been archiving my dads old reel to reel (playback only) to CDs.  3 hours per tape (1.5 hours per side).  I live in the country and still can't seem to keep the cell signal out.  Most times I end up letting it run at those wee hours to be safe.  And either turning off the cell phones in the house, or putting them several rooms / walls away.  2 tapes down, probably 20 more to go.

That's really surprising. I've done pro audio for 10 years and when I got my first cell phone, back in '01 or so, it was a Nextel that caused all sorts of interference with any analog audio device, but since then, I have never had intereferece from any of my phones. Next to mixers, speakers, amps, anything the Nextel was near, I would get it. Even on my PC speakers. There would be a rhythmic popping sound about a second before the phone actually rang. This interference is why hospitals don't want you to use cell phones, but that seems to be gone now, mostly. The interference issue I have now is with Blackberries and wireless mics. Every time someone sends or receives a message on a BB, the wireless mic receiver will flip back and forth between antennas and get an audible pop. I was running sound for a group a few months ago that had three wireless mics and was getting popping every few seconds because right next to me was a table full of people and at one time, five of the eight were on their Blackberries. The client complained, and I pointed these people out to him. He asked the attendees to refrain from BB use during the meeting, and of course the people at the table kept right on using them.

I am so glad I am out of the hotel AV business.

BTW, my original rig was two Shure SM57's > Shure line matching transformers > Sony WM-D3. Worked great!






« Last Edit: March 03, 2010, 01:05:07 PM by splumer »
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Offline rayr0683

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #29 on: March 03, 2010, 01:13:16 PM »
Hello,
      So you used the Shure Mic's with your Sony?  Those are dynamic mic's right?  Did you ever notice if you were able to monitor sound to be recorded through your headphones? Also, did you only use the Line In on your Sony? Or did you use the Mic Input?  I didn't know all of the Sony Pro Walkman Recorders had Line Inputs. I knew the D6, D6C, and TC-5 had Line In's....didn't know if the WM-D3 had Line Inputs.

               Thanks, Ray






You could just test your line in monitoring features.  Lots of devices other than mics let you run line out (CD players).

One quirk I'd be weary of on said tape machine.  Most of these originate from pre-cell phone days.  And are therefor NOT shielded from those signals.  I've been archiving my dads old reel to reel (playback only) to CDs.  3 hours per tape (1.5 hours per side).  I live in the country and still can't seem to keep the cell signal out.  Most times I end up letting it run at those wee hours to be safe.  And either turning off the cell phones in the house, or putting them several rooms / walls away.  2 tapes down, probably 20 more to go.

That's really surprising. I've done pro audio for 10 years and when I got my first cell phone, back in '01 or so, it was a Nextel that caused all sorts of interference with any analog audio device, but since then, I have never had intereferece from any of my phones. Next to mixers, speakers, amps, anything the Nextel was near, I would get it. Even on my PC speakers. There would be a rhythmic popping sound about a second before the phone actually rang. This interference is why hospitals don't want you to use cell phones, but that seems to be gone now, mostly. The interference issue I have now is with Blackberries and wireless mics. Every time someone sends or receives a message on a BB, the wireless mic receiver will flip back and forth between antennas and get an audible pop. I was running sound for a group a few months ago that had three wireless mics and was getting popping every few seconds because right next to me was a table full of people and at one time, five of the eight were on their Blackberries. The client complained, and I pointed these people out to him. He asked the attendees to refrain from BB use during the meeting, and of course the people at the table kept right on using them.

I am so glad I am out of the hotel AV business.

BTW, my original rig was two Shure SM57's > Shure line matching transformers > Sony WM-D3. Worked great!

stevetoney

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #30 on: March 03, 2010, 01:35:40 PM »
Not exactly, I want to be able to record, the sounds as you say....but being able to monitor it via my Headphones, which the WM-D6C actually did,

Sorry for the sidetrack with my post above. 

Not to discount your desire, but you should realize that if you will be doing more music recording than ambient sound recording, you'll most probably need to rely on your meters during recording. 

For nature sounds or soft sounds or soft music, you'll of course be able to listen through headphones to hear what's being recorded.  But with music, I've never been able to get enough sound isolation in my headphones, even with lots of headphones amplification, to be able to really differentiate what's coming through the headphones very well from what's being played in the room. 

The exception to this is the headphone amp on a Sound Devices 702/722/744/788 recorder.  On these, first the headphone amp provides alot of high quality amplification, but more importantly, you can selectively have the headphone signal delayed some amount (user selected time delay) so that you can actually hear the delayed signal to differentiate it from the room music.

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #31 on: March 03, 2010, 01:40:27 PM »
I pretty much use my Sony cans, unplugged, as ear protection, *anymore :)

*that is unless I'm setup in the side wings, onstage, with my mics in the sweet spot. That way I at least get to hear the show as its going on, even if I'm maybe only seeing it on a monitor.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2010, 01:43:39 PM by mfrench »

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #32 on: March 03, 2010, 04:07:38 PM »
Damn!!!  That is very creative.  And if you dont think so, as an onlooker, Im telling you so. I would never have thought of anything like that.  I really like the setup, and it is much more easier to take along with you, than I imagined from the original message you posted about this method.  I see how you can just grab that thing, and set it up as you like, once you have it all built like that.  Very Nice work.  That is probably the recording patterns Id like. That thing blows my mind, I wasn't expecting anything quite like that.  I imagined the mic's seperated by that professional accoustical foam squares, that are real expensive, but didn't visualize it all secured, Id love to hear the sounds you get from that.  Ray





I'd suggesed Church Audio.
Chris builds mics in different pickup patterns, cardioid, and omnidirectional.
Cardioid is a hemispherical pickup pattern. Omnis are an orb, or 360ยบ pickup pattern.
With cards, you depend on spacing, and microphone axis offsets to get stereo imaging.
With omnis, you get imaging via spacing or baffling. Baffling the mics keeps them closer together, which helps control time phasing issues of the signal arriving at two spaced mics at different times - the baffle adds coherency because the time delay is far less than with spaced mics.

These stereo patterns are why you don't want an inexpensive single point stereo mic, as the multiple patterns are so much more functional; and it makes the single point stereo mic very limiting.

You suggest that setting up a baffle might be difficult.
Not at all.
This is my own version of the Jecklin Disc / OSS technique (Optimum Stereo Signal). Around here, we call them j-discs, because they very from the extremely stringent parameters of the OSS technique.





At any rate,... this baffle is 8" diamater, made from a plastic embroidery hoop, scrap foam, and a few hardware store bits. The spreader bar is a piece of dowel and the mic clips are pencil erasers. Cheap, and extremely functional.

Offline Shadow_7

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #33 on: March 03, 2010, 04:37:57 PM »
I pretty much use my Sony cans, unplugged, as ear protection, *anymore :)

Same here.  Most times the source is too loud to differentiate from the cans anyway.  Although still useful to tell if the radio tower is getting picked up in the lulls.

-----

In my case we're talking OLD 1/4" tapes.  Older than I am, and I'm encroaching on 40.  The kind used for musak on overseas flights back in the 60's.  RCA out to 3.5mm plug into an M-Audio Mobile Pre via USB to a laptop.  Any one of those things could be just as susceptible IMO.  Although I've never had much issue from non tape player sources.  GSM handshakes abound from the tape player.  Very old nicotine covered boxes with wooden shells.  Sony something -355 ?  Getting new carpet so everything is in shambles right now.  Painting too.  The stereo echos the handshake too, but not relevent to the tape player as there is no mic per say.  As I become dismayed at how many tunes are songs I played all through high school and college and most aren't even the original artists.  And most predate my birth.  I feel so old...

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #34 on: March 03, 2010, 05:04:17 PM »
I happened to buy a box of 10 inch 2 track tapes from an Airline, maybe American Airlines, and they are 2 track tapes, with a paper inside, listing all the songs, and the time of each song. They are not original artists, and are mainly all 1970's hit songs, either instrumental or some NoName singing them.  But I tell you what....these tapes still sound extremely clean, no dropouts, no static, no distortion.....all of my tapes, cassette and Open Reel, are all sounding as good as the day they were made.  All the ones I made, were made on very good decks, that all had been restored to factory specs. or better. And I took good care of them. The only tapes I have had problems with, were 1980's era Ampex 456, which had something called Sticky Shed Syndrome....the binding of the tapes gummed up, and would end up all over the heads, and entire tape path, eventually stopping the machine. They say you have to bake them, or dehydrate them, in order to get a final play from them, to transfer them over to another source. Then toss them, they are worthless.  Ray





I pretty much use my Sony cans, unplugged, as ear protection, *anymore :)

Same here.  Most times the source is too loud to differentiate from the cans anyway.  Although still useful to tell if the radio tower is getting picked up in the lulls.

-----

In my case we're talking OLD 1/4" tapes.  Older than I am, and I'm encroaching on 40.  The kind used for musak on overseas flights back in the 60's.  RCA out to 3.5mm plug into an M-Audio Mobile Pre via USB to a laptop.  Any one of those things could be just as susceptible IMO.  Although I've never had much issue from non tape player sources.  GSM handshakes abound from the tape player.  Very old nicotine covered boxes with wooden shells.  Sony something -355 ?  Getting new carpet so everything is in shambles right now.  Painting too.  The stereo echos the handshake too, but not relevent to the tape player as there is no mic per say.  As I become dismayed at how many tunes are songs I played all through high school and college and most aren't even the original artists.  And most predate my birth.  I feel so old...

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #35 on: March 03, 2010, 08:17:44 PM »
Ray,

I've experimented extensively with baffled omnis for a long time now.  I've only modified a technique that was created by Jurg Jecklin - Jecklin Disc.  His technique has extremely stringent and unbending parameters, requiring a 12" disc, and a particular type of omnidirectional microphone.  So I went about seeing how far I could push those parameters, starting in the mid 80's with an artificial head binaural stereo microphone kit.
 I eventually moved towards the baffles as a means of replacing the head, while still maintaining the qualities that it gave me, especially as I evolved away from true binaural, and moved towards a quasi-binural, baffled omnis study.

In the pictures below, you'll see true binaural, quasi-binural (Head Reference Transfer Function, HRTF), and various experiments with baffling omnis with a variety of different baffle sizes and shapes.
You've already seen the 8" round baffle, here are some other forms of baffling
All of these techniques would require omnidirectional mics:

GudeHead rigged *"true" Binaural (best played back via headphones, very realistic - not as good with speakers)

*rigged as sennheiser factory spec'd for binaural

GudeHead rigged HRTF - Head Reference Transfer Function, quasi-binaural.
This technique replays by speakers far better than true Binaural, yet still retains the qualities of binaural:


Large Diaphragm 15" square j-disc:


4" mini j-disc:

live use in arena, with another cardioid stereo rig:
« Last Edit: March 03, 2010, 08:25:57 PM by mfrench »

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #36 on: March 03, 2010, 09:07:59 PM »
Man.....you've really taken this to the limits.  I cant believe how many degrees of binaural there are.  Im sorry if I ask so many questions, and maybe dont seem to be fully understanding. But to me, it was just plugging a Mic, or Mic's into the input of my machine, and recording. I did figure that some Mic's were better, or more sensitive than others, but never imagined it could be so complex. It really confuses the hell outta me.  But I agree with what you've said a few posts back. When you said that after reading my incident, with my first walkman, with the Talk-Line that you figured Id like the binaural methods of recording.  Do you happen to know of an Engineer named Kermit Gray??  He id one of the more knowledgeable members of Naktalk, over at Naks.com, relating to Nakamichi Gear.

                Anyway, the other night, he sent me a personal email, and was telling me that I would really like Binaural Mic's for recording Nature/Ambient Sounds.  He also stated that Dynamic Mic's were great for very Loud Sounds, like Thunder Clapping, and that sort of thing, plus he said that Dynamic Mic's were extremely rugged, and can withstand the elements, for recording outdoors, and getting wet, etc.... But he daid that Binaural Mic's were so realistic, it was eery, chilling to listen to with headphones. And I guess your variations of that are even more so. That looks wild, seeing that you recorded actual performances, etc.... You really understand the concept.  So, from what you know of me, and what I have been saying that I like, and would like to achieve, what model Mic's would you suggest that I get?? I realize it may be hard to answer, but your best shot.  Thanks, Ray






Ray,

I've experimented extensively with baffled omnis for a long time now.  I've only modified a technique that was created by Jurg Jecklin - Jecklin Disc.  His technique has extremely stringent and unbending parameters, requiring a 12" disc, and a particular type of omnidirectional microphone.  So I went about seeing how far I could push those parameters, starting in the mid 80's with an artificial head binaural stereo microphone kit.
 I eventually moved towards the baffles as a means of replacing the head, while still maintaining the qualities that it gave me, especially as I evolved away from true binaural, and moved towards a quasi-binural, baffled omnis study.

In the pictures below, you'll see true binaural, quasi-binural (Head Reference Transfer Function, HRTF), and various experiments with baffling omnis with a variety of different baffle sizes and shapes.
You've already seen the 8" round baffle, here are some other forms of baffling
All of these techniques would require omnidirectional mics:

GudeHead rigged *"true" Binaural (best played back via headphones, very realistic - not as good with speakers)

*rigged as sennheiser factory spec'd for binaural

GudeHead rigged HRTF - Head Reference Transfer Function, quasi-binaural.
This technique replays by speakers far better than true Binaural, yet still retains the qualities of binaural:


Large Diaphragm 15" square j-disc:


4" mini j-disc:

live use in arena, with another cardioid stereo rig:


Offline splumer

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #37 on: March 04, 2010, 10:24:52 AM »
Hello,
      So you used the Shure Mic's with your Sony?  Those are dynamic mic's right?  Did you ever notice if you were able to monitor sound to be recorded through your headphones? Also, did you only use the Line In on your Sony? Or did you use the Mic Input?  I didn't know all of the Sony Pro Walkman Recorders had Line Inputs. I knew the D6, D6C, and TC-5 had Line In's....didn't know if the WM-D3 had Line Inputs.

Yes, the SM57 is a dynamic instrument mic, often used to mic cymbals. The dynamic range is nice and wide, and the frequency response throughout the range is what I would consider acceptable. They also can take a hell of a beating without ill effects. They're not Schoeps or Neumann, but they've served me well while I save for something better.

The D3 has a Line In, but I always used the Mic In. The line matching transformers just changed the balanced output of the mics to an unbalanced one for the mic input. Then I had adapters to change the 1/4" plugs to RCA, then into a true stereo Y-cable. You can monitor with headphones, but without the third playback head, you're just listening to a patch and not what's actually been recorded. Unfortunately, none of my stuff on the LMA is from cassette. I used my D3 for a couple years, then went to MD and then to a PMD660 when I was able to get one cheap through work. But I will always have soft spot for the D3: virtually indestructible you never lose a recording because of a firmware error or some other nonsense, and cassette is a lot more forgiving with overload distortion.

I don't miss the tape flip, though. My watch's stopwatch came in handy.
"Forget Jesus, the stars died so you could be here. "
 - Lawrence Krauss

mfrench

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #38 on: March 04, 2010, 10:26:00 AM »
Man.....you've really taken this to the limits.  I cant believe how many degrees of binaural there are.  Im sorry if I ask so many questions, and maybe dont seem to be fully understanding. But to me, it was just plugging a Mic, or Mic's into the input of my machine, and recording. I did figure that some Mic's were better, or more sensitive than others, but never imagined it could be so complex. It really confuses the hell outta me.  But I agree with what you've said a few posts back. When you said that after reading my incident, with my first walkman, with the Talk-Line that you figured Id like the binaural methods of recording.  Do you happen to know of an Engineer named Kermit Gray??  He id one of the more knowledgeable members of Naktalk, over at Naks.com, relating to Nakamichi Gear.

I've really only expanded on a few techniques that have been around for a long time. In that, I proved to myself that things really are not so stringent and difficult as the white papers say it should be.
It really confuses the hell out of me
Don't let it confuse you.  I know its a tough call, but trust us on this - you won't be led astray.

Stereo recording essentially depends on two things: signal impulse amplitude and signal impulse arrival timing; amplitude/attenuation, and timing.

With omnidirectional mics (they're omnis, not binaurals) you have two orbs that pickup at a 360ยบ pattern.
You can essentially do two things to create stereo imaging with them:
1- You can space them apart, usually no less than 3' to get some signal attenuation between the mics.  This also introduces timing difference cues.
The problem with the timing arrival cues is that they can offset with each mic, and create timing phasiness or smudging.
2- You can keep them closer together and place a baffle between them.
The baffle creates attenuation between mics that replicates the amplitude differences that you get by spacing the mics. This attenuation is as much as 6dB between mics.  The baffle allows the mics to be drawn together in spacing, which eliminates the timing phase issues.
The baffle makes it more foolproof.

Kermit Gray
I do not know him, but, this place is it for me pretty much. I frequent this forum and a turntablist forum, and thats pretty much it for my internet socializing.

 
Quote
              Anyway, the other night, he sent me a personal email, and was telling me that I would really like Binaural Mic's for recording Nature/Ambient Sounds.  He also stated that Dynamic Mic's were great for very Loud Sounds, like Thunder Clapping, and that sort of thing, plus he said that Dynamic Mic's were extremely rugged, and can withstand the elements, for recording outdoors, and getting wet, etc.... But he daid that Binaural Mic's were so realistic, it was eery, chilling to listen to with headphones. And I guess your variations of that are even more so. That looks wild, seeing that you recorded actual performances, etc.... You really understand the concept.  So, from what you know of me, and what I have been saying that I like, and would like to achieve, what model Mic's would you suggest that I get?? I realize it may be hard to answer, but your best shot.  Thanks, Ray


Binaural Mics
Binaural is a technique and not a product. It is one that utilizes omni mics and a baffle. Companies that sell "Binaural" mics are selling an improperly named product as a gimmick.
You don't necessarily want to record in true binaural either.  The playback via speakers isn't as good as other omni techniques, the quasi-binaural techniques.
So, its best to get away from discussing binaural, as its somewhat confusing; preferring instead, using the baffled omnis terminology.

Dynamic mics are good for loud sharp impulses - and yes, they can be used as hammers (in jest). But they're far from sensitive, and most have frequency response curves that compliment the human voice, and not so much for music. They can, and have been used successfully, but most of us have moved towards condensor mics.

He is correct that the baffled omni techniques are shockingly real.

Wet conditions:
Some mics handle this better than others.  The mics that I've shown on the furry disc baffle, the small black ones, DPA 406x series, can be immersed and swizzled in a glass of distilled water for cleaning them out.
Generally speaking, you want to protect your gear in wet conditions.

You ask for my best shot in mics.
Well, I'm a DPA guy. But the costs of DPA will set you back on your heels. The miniature mics and power/preamp will be in excess of $1200 - this step kills the upgrade bug virus that is so contagious around here.
As I've suggested already - A Church Audio system would serve you very well, and, would keep you below the $500 mark, and possibly well below it (I have not priced his gear lately).

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #39 on: March 04, 2010, 11:25:49 AM »
I used my D3 for a couple years, then went to MD and then to a PMD660 when I was able to get one cheap through work. But I will always have soft spot for the D3: virtually indestructible you never lose a recording because of a firmware error or some other nonsense, and cassette is a lot more forgiving with overload distortion.

The portion in bold may be true as compared to 16bit recording, say through a PMD-660, but I doubt this statement is true if recording in 24bit resolution.  I know the OP said that he's not into digital, but just wanted to point this out.

Also, in terms of recording reliability, I trust my digital recorders alot more than I ever trusted a cassette based system.  There are virtually no moving parts in my digital recorders and, while there are at times isolated instances of software bugs, I've personally experienced very few lost recordings for that reason as compared to the mechanical failures (broken belts...binding tape...binding capstans) that I experienced when using tape...not to mention that digital technology minimizes/eliminates tape flips, music gaps and wow/flutter.

I respect people that choose to continue to value the benefits of analog cassette tape, but personally I'm NEVER and I mean NEVER turning back.

(PS:  I've got about 1000 lightly used, once recorded onto, Maxell XLII's...anybody wanna buy 'em for cheap?)
« Last Edit: March 04, 2010, 11:42:52 AM by tonedeaf »

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #40 on: March 04, 2010, 11:46:09 AM »
Tonedeaf,
                      Just because Im not real into digital, I am by no means wanting to put it down. Sometimes I react to an action, or some kind of sarcasm about Tape being Ancient or Dinosaur like.  but I agree with what was just said. If you were getting married, would you trust a DVD Recording Camcorder??? I have never personally had a bad result with Tape, in audio or video. But so many DVD's and CD's that I have made, or bought, have had glitches...or pixelated...etc...that would be too risky for me to trust a once in a lifetime thing, such as wedding, birth of child, etc...Id rather tape first, then make a Digital Copy of either Audio or Video.

                Another thing....My Akai GX-747 DBX Reel to Reel, which is fully restored and mods performed that have been learned through the years...and the features of the search, go to....return to zero....etc... is first rate. The Computer on this Open Reeel tape deck is so precise its amazing. I dont even see these features on much of the digital equipment today. Also, the Dynamic Range of this Akai GX-747 DBX is 128, a dynamic range of 128, thats amazing for analog....I think its better than digital. So, its not like tape is some old dinosaur....these open reel decks are still made today...and many of the classics, especially by TEAC, full of feature, and great performers, were made right up into the late 1990's...Ray







T
I used my D3 for a couple years, then went to MD and then to a PMD660 when I was able to get one cheap through work. But I will always have soft spot for the D3: virtually indestructible you never lose a recording because of a firmware error or some other nonsense, and cassette is a lot more forgiving with overload distortion.

The portion in bold may be true as compared to 16bit recording, say through a PMD-660, but I doubt this statement is true if recording in 24bit resolution.  I know the OP said that he's not into digital, but just wanted to point this out.

stevetoney

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #41 on: March 04, 2010, 12:13:31 PM »
Tonedeaf,
                      Just because Im not real into digital, I am by no means wanting to put it down.

Ray...perhaps you misinterpreted my words.  Notwithstanding my penchant for bringing levity into most of my posts, I wasn't putting down tape as being a dinosaur...in fact, as I stated in my post, I respect that you and others are staying with tape. 

My point was merely to compare and contrast some statements that I thought were worthwhile to point out for the sake of discussion, as related to digital recorders vs. analog recorder...and the reasons why I prefer digital. 

While I prefer digital audio recording technology, I fully respect that you and others prefer analog and acknowledge the issues with digital that you point out.

Steve
« Last Edit: March 04, 2010, 12:16:33 PM by tonedeaf »

Offline rayr0683

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #42 on: March 04, 2010, 12:48:17 PM »
Tonedeaf,
              I understand that your not putting down, and I didnt take it that way.  I meant that sometimes I do take it that way, from people who really mean it that way, not you.  I just am skeptical, due to problems of shows that I recorded with a very expensive Panasonic DVR....and tried various different brands of Discs, and ended up withpixelation problems at times, or a disc that would not play, in some of my other players, and said disc error.

               BTW, the Place that does still repair, and refurbish Sony WM-D6C, and did mine not too long ago, still has parts on hand, etc....I contacted him regarding another tuneup of the D6C....and he asked if Id be interested in a Marantz CDR-300. He said they are $825.00 units, but he has about 8 new ones left, that he is selling for $325.00 shipped, asking if I was interested in one, rather than continuing on with my D6C.  I dont know if thats really a great price, or how good the unit is. But he speaks very highly of the Marantz units.  Ever heard of them? Or know anyone that has had one?  Just something I was kicking around in my head, since he brought it up to me.  Thanks, Ray






Tonedeaf,
                      Just because Im not real into digital, I am by no means wanting to put it down.

Ray...perhaps you misinterpreted my words.  Notwithstanding my penchant for bringing levity into most of my posts, I wasn't putting down tape as being a dinosaur...in fact, as I stated in my post, I respect that you and others are staying with tape. 

My point was merely to compare and contrast some statements that I thought were worthwhile to point out for the sake of discussion, as related to digital recorders vs. analog recorder...and the reasons why I prefer digital. 

While I prefer digital audio recording technology, I fully respect that you and others prefer analog and acknowledge the issues with digital that you point out.

Steve

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #43 on: March 05, 2010, 04:49:38 AM »
I've experimented extensively with baffled omnis for a long time now.  I've only modified a technique that was created by Jurg Jecklin - Jecklin Disc.  His technique has extremely stringent and unbending parameters, requiring a 12" disc, and a particular type of omnidirectional microphone.  So I went about seeing how far I could push those parameters, starting in the mid 80's with an artificial head binaural stereo microphone kit.
 I eventually moved towards the baffles as a means of replacing the head, while still maintaining the qualities that it gave me, especially as I evolved away from true binaural, and moved towards a quasi-binural, baffled omnis study.

In addition to the Jecklin disc, there's a Schneider disc.  A rounded bump in the middle, instead of just a flat disc.  Not that I'll ever use these things much myself.  I tend to favor outdoor style recording.  And with wind issues having a 12" kite is not desired.  Plus other live concert issues where a mic stand is offensive enough, throw in a fuzzy billboard on top and ticket sales quickly become more important than recording the event.  Even if it's just perceived ticket sales, and not actual ticket sales.

As far as tape, I prefer digital.  Most playback systems these days use digital media.  And with SACD and DSD options, what used to set tape apart from the rest is not as dramatic as it once was.  And once you have a digital version, copies are easy to make, and degredation is no longer an issue.  Perfect copies every time (depending on the delivery medium anyway).  Tape is also problematic in humid conditions.  And because there are moving parts, that motor noise becomes part of the recording in some cases.  And with 1TB HDDs being < $100, you can't even justify tape based on costs anymore.

Offline splumer

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #44 on: March 05, 2010, 09:15:26 AM »
I agree, but with my PMD660 (which I've only been using about a year) there's always this tiny voice in the back of my mind wondering if the recording will take. With cassette, I knew that as long as the meter was going, there was going to be something there. An example: Years ago I was fixing my grandmother's garage roof and found one of the local urchins had tossed a porn VHS up there. Why? Dunno, but I popped it in my VCR at home and it played! Not well, but it played. No digital medium is that robust.

But, having said all that, I still love solid state recorders, and would never go back.

I used my D3 for a couple years, then went to MD and then to a PMD660 when I was able to get one cheap through work. But I will always have soft spot for the D3: virtually indestructible you never lose a recording because of a firmware error or some other nonsense, and cassette is a lot more forgiving with overload distortion.

The portion in bold may be true as compared to 16bit recording, say through a PMD-660, but I doubt this statement is true if recording in 24bit resolution.  I know the OP said that he's not into digital, but just wanted to point this out.

Also, in terms of recording reliability, I trust my digital recorders alot more than I ever trusted a cassette based system.  There are virtually no moving parts in my digital recorders and, while there are at times isolated instances of software bugs, I've personally experienced very few lost recordings for that reason as compared to the mechanical failures (broken belts...binding tape...binding capstans) that I experienced when using tape...not to mention that digital technology minimizes/eliminates tape flips, music gaps and wow/flutter.

I respect people that choose to continue to value the benefits of analog cassette tape, but personally I'm NEVER and I mean NEVER turning back.

(PS:  I've got about 1000 lightly used, once recorded onto, Maxell XLII's...anybody wanna buy 'em for cheap?)
"Forget Jesus, the stars died so you could be here. "
 - Lawrence Krauss

mfrench

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Re: HELP NEWBIE with MIC
« Reply #45 on: March 05, 2010, 10:02:44 AM »
I've experimented extensively with baffled omnis for a long time now.  I've only modified a technique that was created by Jurg Jecklin - Jecklin Disc.  His technique has extremely stringent and unbending parameters, requiring a 12" disc, and a particular type of omnidirectional microphone.  So I went about seeing how far I could push those parameters, starting in the mid 80's with an artificial head binaural stereo microphone kit.
 I eventually moved towards the baffles as a means of replacing the head, while still maintaining the qualities that it gave me, especially as I evolved away from true binaural, and moved towards a quasi-binural, baffled omnis study.

In addition to the Jecklin disc, there's a Schneider disc.  A rounded bump in the middle, instead of just a flat disc.  Not that I'll ever use these things much myself.  I tend to favor outdoor style recording.  And with wind issues having a 12" kite is not desired.  Plus other live concert issues where a mic stand is offensive enough, throw in a fuzzy billboard on top and ticket sales quickly become more important than recording the event.  Even if it's just perceived ticket sales, and not actual ticket sales.

As far as tape, I prefer digital.  Most playback systems these days use digital media.  And with SACD and DSD options, what used to set tape apart from the rest is not as dramatic as it once was.  And once you have a digital version, copies are easy to make, and degredation is no longer an issue.  Perfect copies every time (depending on the delivery medium anyway).  Tape is also problematic in humid conditions.  And because there are moving parts, that motor noise becomes part of the recording in some cases.  And with 1TB HDDs being < $100, you can't even justify tape based on costs anymore.


more alternate baffles:
Round Nerf balls and Nerf footballs. People have reported good results using either of these.

 

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