Topic: color coding neutrik xlrs

[checht]

I'm building a 100' x 4 channel snake using Redco TGS and neutrik connectors, and have purchased 2 different color coding systems trying to find the one that's easiest to differentiate.
I have low vision, and especially in the dark, even w a flashlight, high vis is super helpful.

I purchased the Neutrik colored boots, and also colored 3D printed caps from Gotham. I kinda think the boots are esaier to see, and given that this application, the reduced size of using caps isn't a huge deal.

Thoughts?

[morst]

I'm building a 100' x 4 channel snake using Redco TGS and neutrik connectors, and have purchased 2 different color coding systems trying to find the one that's easiest to differentiate.
I have low vision, and especially in the dark, even w a flashlight, high vis is super helpful.

I purchased the Neutrik colored boots, and also colored 3D printed caps from Gotham. I kinda think the boots are esaier to see, and given that this application, the reduced size of using caps isn't a huge deal.

Thoughts?

Use numbers rather than colors for better low light legibility!?

[rocksuitcase]

Just given the photo, I'd vote for the boots. More surface area, easier to spot during a quick setup.

[morst]

Just given the photo, I'd vote for the boots. More surface area, easier to spot during a quick setup.

I don't understand the caps.
Are they dust caps to be removed before connecting?
That's ... the opposite of a time-saver, but I suppose protecting from dust is a reason...


OH that's the back of a side-exit connector. I would go with axial connectors if possible, so the boots if that's the choice.

[checht]

Boots need to be drilled to pass cable out. Not sure why they can't do that during printing... Can be used with axial or side exit,, gotta drill either way, but plastic is easier than aluminum unless I head over to my friend's shop.

Numbers would need to be at least .5" tall for me to read them, I have serious optical nerve neuropathy that gets me close to legally blind. Fun fun fun, but at least I can see my grandmonsters' faces. So, colors are more reliable.

I enjoy that stubbies are half the size of original Neutriks, but sometimes venue staff complain that they're too small for plugging in to deep patch bays and even more of a pita when removing. Since this is a snake build, and the cable weighs 6+ lbs, perhaps full size is appropriate.

Thanks everyone!

Pinecil arrived today, tinned it, and am making myself finish work day before jumping in.
Now I gotta pick how long for the fans, thinking 15" or so...

[voltronic]

Checht, I would agree with others that the official Neutrik boots would be easier to see, and I also recommend numbers or other label indicators on the metal shells for a long snake.

If you do decide to drill out the centers of the printed Gotham caps, let us know how it goes. They aren't printed that way because they are intended to just be a cap while the metal shell gets drilled, but I'm interested in possibly drilling the centers for a future build.

[morst]

Numbers would need to be at least .5" tall for me to read them, I have serious optical nerve neuropathy that gets me close to legally blind. Fun fun fun, but at least I can see my grandmonsters' faces. So, colors are more reliable.

I was thinking the numbers should be 3/4" or a full inch high.
I usually use white tape and a sharpie for temporary installs, but since you're building a snake, it's gotta be solid.
Colors will be fine for a 4-channel snake, might I suggest going from dark-to-light when wiring? Purple red orange yellow or some-such plan?


For larger projects, I don't think colors scale well, so I'll keep my eye out for readable solutions while I'm on the job (yes, my day job often involves cables and such lol!)