I know that the Li-ion battery will charge from a USB connection. Can you power the unit itself from a USB connection?
Fantastic report, thanks for your exploration of power options.
Any battery life test results? The older DR-100 running on the Li-Ion batt and internal mics gets about 7 hours, according to published sources.
- AA selected as main, both AA and Li-ion inserted, no external battery connected; remove AA and UNIT POWERS OFF (no automatic switchover)!
+T on the thorough review and testing, Steve. BTW, excellent taste in test CDs. ;)
Quote- AA selected as main, both AA and Li-ion inserted, no external battery connected; remove AA and UNIT POWERS OFF (no automatic switchover)!
I’m sure you’ve planned this already, but I’d suggest the following power switchover test: Set AA’s as ‘MAIN’ power source. Allow unit to run until it indicates that it has fully depleted the AAs and has switched to the Li-ion. Try swapping the AAs batteries at that point to see if it shuts down. Hopefully it does not, and (barring a possible firmware update that corrects the issue) the practical work around for that festival powering hot-swap scenario becomes either of two choices:
1) Wait for the unit to switchover to the Li-ion before changing AAs while recording,
-or-
2) Enter the menu and change ‘MAIN’ power source to Li-ion before swapping the AAs.
I have the DR100, exact same case except for some minor changes. In regards to the wireless remote I covered up the sensor on the unit with black electrical tape. At some shows I recorded in the taper section there were 1 or 2 other DR100's. If someone messed with the wireless remote they could screw up other decks.
I have the DR100, exact same case except for some minor changes. In regards to the wireless remote I covered up the sensor on the unit with black electrical tape. At some shows I recorded in the taper section there were 1 or 2 other DR100's. If someone messed with the wireless remote they could screw up other decks.
DR2d has a menu setting which enables/disables use of the IR remote. Not sure if that is the case with this machine.
Fantastic review Steve.
To be fair, the manual says it's SPDIF only.
I got delivery of my DR100mkii today, and wanted to report that it works with an AC adapter I originally bought on eBay for my Tascam DR-07 for about $6.00.
If you search PS-P520 on eBay, a bunch of them come up from different retailers.
It looks like this:
I know that the Li-ion battery will charge from a USB connection. Can you power the unit itself from a USB connection?
Nope. Explanation and photo added. Basically it's just like other recorders...once you connect the USB to the PC, it acts like a separate drive for downloading files from the recorder but recorder functionality is disabled.
How'd you figure that one out? :o
Not true Steve. There is a work around. Press Record first, THEN plug in the external USB battery pack. You'll continue to record while charging the Lithium on the fly. No "USB Connect" screen. I perfected this at Wanee a few years ago with my DR-1, which runs the same battery. A simple cheapo USB AA battery pack had that puppy running 11 hours. Hot swapping made easy. NOTE: if you Stop your recording, the "USB Connect" screen will come up, but no fears, your recording will be saved.
Not true Steve. There is a work around. Press Record first, THEN plug in the external USB battery pack. You'll continue to record while charging the Lithium on the fly. No "USB Connect" screen. I perfected this at Wanee a few years ago with my DR-1, which runs the same battery. A simple cheapo USB AA battery pack had that puppy running 11 hours. Hot swapping made easy. NOTE: if you Stop your recording, the "USB Connect" screen will come up, but no fears, your recording will be saved.
Does this charge the Lithium and power the unit?
3 hrs, 15 minutes on a pair of AA energizers.
Backlight off, internal directional mics, 24/48, low cut and the filters off, of course.
Does the hold switch lock the level adjustment?
I have the DR100, exact same case except for some minor changes. In regards to the wireless remote I covered up the sensor on the unit with black electrical tape. At some shows I recorded in the taper section there were 1 or 2 other DR100's. If someone messed with the wireless remote they could screw up other decks.
DR2d has a menu setting which enables/disables use of the IR remote. Not sure if that is the case with this machine.
Doesn't ring a bell, but I'll double check.
I got 5 1/2 hours run time from the internal Li-ion...backlight off, internal directional mics on, 24/48. Not bad at all, AFAIC.
I know that the Li-ion battery will charge from a USB connection. Can you power the unit itself from a USB connection?
Nope. Explanation and photo added. Basically it's just like other recorders...once you connect the USB to the PC, it acts like a separate drive for downloading files from the recorder but recorder functionality is disabled.
Not true Steve. There is a work around. Press Record first, THEN plug in the external USB battery pack. You'll continue to record while charging the Lithium on the fly. No "USB Connect" screen. I perfected this at Wanee a few years ago with my DR-1, which runs the same battery. A simple cheapo USB AA battery pack had that puppy running 11 hours. Hot swapping made easy. NOTE: if you Stop your recording, the "USB Connect" screen will come up, but no fears, your recording will be saved.
Give it a try Steve when you get a chance. Thanks again. :)
The hold switch DOES NOT lock level adjustment. Seems to lock almost everything else though. I'll do a detailed test and review and put it in the report.
The menu has three choices that control what's going on with that 2.5mm jack. The choices are:
digi-in
RC-10 remote
footswitch
The first selection is made for digital input recording. The second selection is made to use the remote either in wireless or wired mode. The final selection is for an optional footswitch.
Even though it's not specifically identified in the menu as such, if you choose the third selection, you can disable the remote. Confirmed through testing.
The hold switch DOES NOT lock level adjustment. Seems to lock almost everything else though. I'll do a detailed test and review and put it in the report.
Does it lock out the IR remote? Hold switch on the DR2d does not, which is a nice feature IMO. See below..
The menu has three choices that control what's going on with that 2.5mm jack. The choices are:
digi-in
RC-10 remote
footswitch
The first selection is made for digital input recording. The second selection is made to use the remote either in wireless or wired mode. The final selection is for an optional footswitch.
Even though it's not specifically identified in the menu as such, if you choose the third selection, you can disable the remote. Confirmed through testing.
That implies that the IR remote may be disabled if digital input recording mode is selected. Is that the case? I've found it very convenient to be able to lock-down the DR2d with the hold switch and then use the IR remote to stop/start recording.
Mark, can you try running straight in for one set?
The opener perhaps, if there is one? I know a ton of us are curious about
the spls/distortion/brickwalling of running straight into the stock pres.
Thanks for the reviews Steve and hopefully Mr.T
-todd
^^^ Interesting! What is the current consumption of the mics you used?
Steve, that would be stellar brother! I can tell you're curious as well.Mark, can you try running straight in for one set?
The opener perhaps, if there is one? I know a ton of us are curious about
the spls/distortion/brickwalling of running straight into the stock pres.
Thanks for the reviews Steve and hopefully Mr.T
-todd
Todd. My first night out with the recorder in a venue will be in a week, so if nobody has tested the pre's by then, I'll run the opening set straight through the internal preamp to see what we get.
I've got the rest of the year off, so I think I'll do a basement music test in the meantime. Even though I don't really like that method of testing, I'm losing patience to find out a little more about what they sound like. ;)
Steve, that would be stellar brother! I can tell you're curious as well.
I will be back in the game soon and I have a few recorders I have been rushing through my brain.
The top contenders as it stands right now are the 661 because I ran the 660 and am familiar with Marantz
and this tascam. So am digging what yo are kicking out here Steve.Big time thanks.
I ran a stereo mic XLR IN into the DR-100mkii with phantom power on. It got about 3 1/4 hours out of the fully-charged lithium battery.
Does the hold switch lock the level adjustment?
The hold switch DOES NOT lock level adjustment. Seems to lock almost everything else though. I'll do a detailed test and review and put it in the report.
I ran a stereo mic XLR IN into the DR-100mkii with phantom power on. It got about 3 1/4 hours out of the fully-charged lithium battery.
This intrigues me the most since you brought up the SD7xx feature and Hi and Lo brought up the
Steve, that would be stellar brother! I can tell you're curious as well.
I will be back in the game soon and I have a few recorders I have been rushing through my brain.
The top contenders as it stands right now are the 661 because I ran the 660 and am familiar with Marantz
and this tascam. So am digging what yo are kicking out here Steve.Big time thanks.
Well this works out well then. My basement test will be the stock pre's on the 661 vs. the stock pres on the DR100mkII vs. the AETA PSP-3. I'll probably do it tomorrow when my wife leaves the house since it requires some blasting of tune-age.
Definitely one of the things I'm going to check out is what the different gain steps are when you switch between L, M, and H and then what gain range at each setting the level dial goes through from zero to ten.
wow what a review
nice work
so is it safe to assume the overall pros (also assuming it sounds good) vs a m10 are...
48v
dig in
the con is battery life
I'm thinking it will stay in the Low position once SPL's from the PA are involved.
Did you fully cycle your Li-ion a couple of times? If not, you might not be getting your max run-time until you run your Li-ion down a time or two.
I ran a stereo mic XLR IN into the DR-100mkii with phantom power on. It got about 3 1/4 hours out of the fully-charged lithium battery.
Thank you!! Can you try with a pair of AA only and report results? Thanks again.
Does the hold switch lock the level adjustment?
The hold switch DOES NOT lock level adjustment. Seems to lock almost everything else though. I'll do a detailed test and review and put it in the report.
That's fine for now. The Sony M-10 suffers from the same issue. Just tape the puppy down.
I ran a stereo mic XLR IN into the DR-100mkii with phantom power on. It got about 3 1/4 hours out of the fully-charged lithium battery.
Thank you!! Can you try with a pair of AA only and report results? Thanks again.
Will do.
^^^ Interesting! What is the current consumption of the mics you used?
I'm an ignoramus about these things. Not quite sure what to look for but the spec sheet says:
"Phantom power requirements: 48V DC, 6.4 mA typical – both channels total"
It's a stereo mic.
I ran a stereo mic XLR IN into the DR-100mkii with phantom power on. It got about 3 1/4 hours out of the fully-charged lithium battery.
That's not as good as I expected based on my run-time test with the internals.
I ran a stereo mic XLR IN into the DR-100mkii with phantom power on. It got about 3 1/4 hours out of the fully-charged lithium battery.
Thank you!! Can you try with a pair of AA only and report results? Thanks again.
Will do.
That's not as good as I expected based on my run-time test with the internals.
Assuming that the difference in run-time between your mics and the internals with the Li-ion is consistent with that in the AAs, it should be another 1.9 hours or so. More than five hours total without swapping batteries! That sounds very good to me; I almost never need more than that...
Right. I agree with you. My thoughts were that I had sometime ago done a comparison of power draw on a battery with and without phantom and I don't remember specifics of which mics or (I think it was an Oade m248 preamp) other than I got something like 5 1/2 without phantom on and 4 1/2 with phantom on. Since I got 5 1/2 hours of runtime with the Li-ion powering the internals, I was thinking/hoping for something close to the same with phantom on, but no I think 3 1/2 is long enough for almost every show I'd attend and then when you have a couple of AAs as backup, you should never have a power issue.
Sorry, my news is not so good --- with a pair of fully charged ENELOOPS, I only got 40 minutes. I guess the phantom really draws a lot.
Now, these ENELOOPS are a few years old, so they may not be charging as well. I'll try again with some new AA's.
And I'll take Steve's suggestion -- run the Lithium down a couple times and see if I can stretch it.
I finally did some sound sampling today using my PSP-3 preamp and a stock PMD-661 for comparison.
Schoeps MK4 > M221b tubes > Tascam DR-100mkII using XLR In (XLR Switch on Mic In)
http://www.sendspace.com/file/0n4gdk
Schoeps MK4 > M221b tubes > Marantz PMD-661 using XLR In (XLR Switch on Mic In)
http://www.sendspace.com/file/4ricbr
Since I got 5 1/2 hours of runtime with the Li-ion powering the internals, I was thinking/hoping for something close to the same with phantom on, but no I think 3 1/2 is long enough for almost every show I'd attend and then when you have a couple of AAs as backup, you should never have a power issue.
That's not as good as I expected based on my run-time test with the internals.
I don't think it's too bad, is it?...About 60% of the run-time of the internals seems pretty reasonable to me, although I guess it depends a lot on the needs of the internals vs. those of the externals (I would think the internals probably draw less current).
Some better battery life news.
I ran my Beyerdynamic 930's into the XLR of the DR100mkii, using rechargeable Eneloop AA's, with phantom power on, 24/96, and got just under 1 hr 40 min recording time.
Ran mine last night 24/96, p48 off, xlr in coming out of a V2. First of all, love the layout and size over my 661. My only qualm with the design is that its easy to bump the level adjustment wheel. Of course, if i pay attention it wont matter, but after a bottle of wine last night.....you get the picture.
I got about 2 hours with the internal battery. Did not bring AAs. There was one bare left, so probably another 30next minutes. I had the back light set on 30 seconds, and did a bit of adjustment. So you can probably get some more time of you lower the timer. I was hoping for a longer battery life ......however, its a great little recorder.
As far as noise coming from the machine....since i had p48 off there was none. Quiet as could be...
My only qualm with the design is that its easy to bump the level adjustment wheel. Of course, if i pay attention it wont matter, but after a bottle of wine last night.....you get the picture.
Some better battery life news.
I ran my Beyerdynamic 930's into the XLR of the DR100mkii, using rechargeable Eneloop AA's, with phantom power on, 24/96, and got just under 1 hr 40 min recording time.
Is that with or without the Li-ion internal battery?
The best recording level controls to my mind are simple increase/decrease buttons for two reasons-
They lock with the hold switch.
The adjustment is incremental (you can count the number of pushes and know exactly by how much you changed the gain) but usually not audible.
They take less room on the machine.
The knob can't come off by accident and roll off somewhere on the floor.
OK that's four, and the last may not apply here. But really I think level knobs are more about marketing than actual functionality. People like knobs. I know I really dislike car stereos which have buttons instead of a volume knob.
[edit- one more came to mind, the ability to adjust input gain via remote is more common with buttons]
That is without the Li-ion battery. That is using the AA's alone.
When I tested the Li-ion alone I got about 3 1/4 hours with phantom on.
I think about 5 hours on the combination of internal batteries with phantom power is not too shabby.
Fantastic review Steve.
+1
Fantastic review Steve.
+1
I think about 5 hours on the combination of internal batteries with phantom power is not too shabby.
I am contemplating returning my DR-40 and paying a few more bucks for this. There's a weird "helicopter noise" problem with that model, documented here on BH:http://goo.gl/cklQE
Does the MK have any problems with this?
Well after reading this very complete review, its no wonder you decided to let go of the 661.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=152538.0
It looks like this recorder is bridging the gap between the m10 and 661.
Any idea how the wiring would work from this peculiar 2.5 mm plug to an RCA plug?
I found this: 2.5mm TRRS plug to RCA female adaptor for GPS Video Input
here:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-5mm-TRS-plug-RCA-female-adaptor-GPS-Video-Input-/330611669636?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf9fdba84
Looks like the same adapter. Probably could just replace the RCA jack with an RCA plug.
I found this: 2.5mm TRRS plug to RCA female adaptor for GPS Video Input
here:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-5mm-TRS-plug-RCA-female-adaptor-GPS-Video-Input-/330611669636?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf9fdba84
I found this: 2.5mm TRRS plug to RCA female adaptor for GPS Video Input
here:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-5mm-TRS-plug-RCA-female-adaptor-GPS-Video-Input-/330611669636?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf9fdba84
Really just finally checking in, since this looks like a good recorder option. Thanks for the detailed review Steve!
On the cable, is the included cable a TRRS cable? The Tascam website lists the digital input jack as a 2.5mm TRS jack, not a TRRS jack. ???
I've seen several places to get a right-angle 2.5mm TRRS cable assembly that cable builders could use to make custom cables (right angle always seems like the way to go for me), but I haven't found any right-angle 2.5mm TRRS connectors themselves yet.
I just got mine today.
On a first test run, I got 3 hours out of the internal Li-Ion battery with the MBHO actives and P48 on. However, the run time of the AAs is just ridiculous. I got 10 minutes from a fully-charged pair of Eneloops, 25 minutes from a pair of Sanyo 2700 mAh Ni-MH rechargeables and 9 minutes from a new pair of Varta "High Energy" non-rechargeables.
While the Li-Ion performance is what I had expected, the AA performance is just disappointing. I am still thinking about whether or not to keep the recorder. If I keep it, I guess I'll have to get a secondary Li-Ion pack for those shows when I want to tape more than one band...
I think I'm going to reach out to Tascam about this. There's something not right about what you guys are seeing...I really wish I had a pair of P48 mics so I could also test.
I just realized something interesting. When I insert a fresh pair of AAs, the battery indicator in the top right corner of the recorder's display only shows 2 out of 4 bars. I'm getting this behavior with Ni-MH rechargeables and 1.5V alkalines. Is anybody else getting more bars on the battery indicator from AAs?
Edit: The manual lists a run time of 5 hours for Li-Ion and 4 hours for Eneloop (2000 mAh) AAs. That means AAs should run for around 80% of the Li-Ion's run time. The Li-Ion has a specified wattage of 6.66Wh (3.7V x 1800mAh). Two Eneloop AAs have a wattage of 5Wh (2 x 1.25V x 2000mAh). This is 75% of the wattage of the Li-Ion and therefore consistent with the manual. And, at a specified maximum power consumption of 4W, the Eneloops should at least last an hour.
Going through AA's that fast means they are being close to short-circuited with possible safety issues. Were they actually dead when the recorder said they were? Is there a battery type setting somewhere, such that the recorder is properly set for the battery type in use?
Thats a HUGE BUMMER bout the runtimes :(
How long do NIMH AA's last when just recording the Digital Coax INPUT ???
I just ran down another pair of NiMHs. The unit got warm, but not really to a point that I would call it hot. But what's more interesting: I measured the voltage on the NiMHs afterwards and they had 1.274 V and 1.278 V. In my experience, empty batteries should have a lower voltage. I also inserted them into my DR-2d and this unit shows all three bars on the battery indicator. WTF?
Oh, and I did another test with the same Eneloop NiMHs I used yesterday and that got me 10 minutes with P48 on. This time, I recorded from the internal omnis and got 229 minutes just on the AAs.
I just ran down another pair of NiMHs. The unit got warm, but not really to a point that I would call it hot. But what's more interesting: I measured the voltage on the NiMHs afterwards and they had 1.274 V and 1.278 V. In my experience, empty batteries should have a lower voltage. I also inserted them into my DR-2d and this unit shows all three bars on the battery indicator. WTF?
Oh, and I did another test with the same Eneloop NiMHs I used yesterday and that got me 10 minutes with P48 on. This time, I recorded from the internal omnis and got 229 minutes just on the AAs.
This AA battery issue sure sounds like a firmware bug...?
Edit: On a side note, am I the only one who always mistakes the headphone icon in the lower right of the display for a circled "arrow up"? :-[
This AA battery issue sure sounds like a firmware bug...?It does, and that's good news.
Hopefully Tascam will do some testing of Lithium AA's and NiMH AA's and sort it out with a new firmware release.
I'm currently running a test using a pair of Nickel-zinc rechargeable AAs (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel%E2%80%93zinc_battery) that I borrowed.
Wow, I'm now totally astonished. I just got 2 hrs 9 mins from the two NiZn 1.6 V / 1500 mAh rechargeables that I borrowed. And this time, the batteries are really empty (even the DR-2d won't accept them anymore). The unit did not even get hot (just slightly warm).
However, one point I would correct: Li-ions do not have a progressive discharge curve; they have a quick drop from 4.2V, then a very flat discharge curve before rapid death. This requires a precision voltage reference to trigger an accurate low battery warning:
(http://johndayautomotivelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/BM-S23-Fig1-300x287.jpg)
However, one point I would correct: Li-ions do not have a progressive discharge curve; they have a quick drop from 4.2V, then a very flat discharge curve before rapid death. This requires a precision voltage reference to trigger an accurate low battery warning:
(http://johndayautomotivelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/BM-S23-Fig1-300x287.jpg)
Dear Jon and Rainer:
How does the issue you're debating help with the diagnosis of the early cut-out problem with the Tascam? If it doesn't help and your discussion about flat vs. sloping discharge curve is tangential to diagnosing the root cause of the Tascam problem, could I request you start a new thread?
It seems to me the concept of internal battery resistance (perhaps on old rechargeables and certain types of alkalines) and its effect on output voltage was the key concept that needed to be flushed out.
Thanks
Well, my main point was about high internal resistance of various types of alkaline AAs, which will contribute to the variance in observed runtimes with that option. You would want to be sure to use the Duracell Coppertop/Energizer level and not the lower grades, and if you want maximum possible life, the primary (photo) lithium grades.
Also the point about recorders/phantom as constant power, not current, loads--as the battery voltage drops and internal resistance increases, the box will draw increasing amounts of current. That will accelerate the battery towards death, and that effect is worse as power load increases (meaning high phantom draw).
This link on the Battery University site seems to describe what might be happening on the early cut-out. The first graph seems like it would be a logical explanation for the experiences of dogmusic and Sebasian.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_does_internal_resistance_affect_performance
I don't think a recorder would be a pulsed-load the same way a computer is, especially given the evidence in this thread that the cause of AA death is closely associated with phantom load, which is constant. The trouble is that DC converter efficiency is dependent upon a low-resistance supply. So as the resistance increases the efficiency drops, which in turn demands more current, which is a nasty positive feedback loop.
0.06C / 0.1C
Initial voltage: 8.35V / 8.34V
1 hour: 8.15V / 8.11V
2 hour: 8.04V / 7.92V
3 hour: 7.94V / 7.76V
4 hour: 7.83V / 7.63V
5 hour: 7.71V / 7.53V
6 hour: 7.63V / 7.46V
7 hour: 7.56V / 7.43V
8 hour: 7.51V / 7.37V
9 hour: 7.48V / 7.21V
10 hour: 7.45V / 6.86V
11 hour: 7.43V
12 hour: 7.38V
13 hour: 7.29V
14 hour: 7.15V
15 hour: 6.76V
Here's an update on battery run times... After a few days of charge/discharge cycles I'm getting continuous runtimes of around 320 mins. with the Li-Ion and NiZn AAs together. The Li-Ion lasts for 180 to 190 mins. and the NiZn AAs last for 120 to 130 mins. This is enough for any concert I attend.
manleyf,Thanks for the feedback!
I returned my DR-40 for a DR100mkii and I'm very glad I did!
Did anyone run straight in at a show yet with this deck?
I listened to your samples steve and the pres sound good but, we need to
know how they react in a high spl environment too.
tonedeaf ran his m221b tubes>mic-in. Im psyched to hear it :)
Just met Steve last night at a jazz gig down here in FL and he was running this deck. A nice sounding room but no PA so not a high SPL situation.
..BY FAR one of the coolest and nicest people you will EVER meet 8)
Did anyone run straight in at a show yet with this deck?
I listened to your samples steve and the pres sound good but, we need to
know how they react in a high spl environment too.tonedeaf ran his m221b tubes>mic-in. Im psyched to hear it :)WHAT UP STEVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just want to know 3 things:
1) Comparing the built-in mic quality, xlr hiss/noice and the preamps of the mkii and the mki, Which one is better overall?
2) Which one you think is better this one or the zoom h4n?
3) Is the 3.5 mm good as the sony pcm m-10? Like for using this? Rode VideoMic Pro
Thanks a lot people.
And I would like you to let me know whick one you preffer for built-in mics and for externals aswell.
Zoom h4n vs Dr-100 vs Dr-100 MKii
manleyf,Thanks for the feedback!
I returned my DR-40 for a DR100mkii and I'm very glad I did!
What led to the exchange, why are you glad?
The only thing that has me thinking twice really is the 4 track capabilities, even if it's 2 tr+ mics....
Any word from Tascam on the power issue and a firmware update?
They've had a while to investigate.
I'm hoping at some point for a firmware update the revises the low voltage cut out to a lower setpoint.
I'm hoping at some point for a firmware update the revises the low voltage cut out to a lower setpoint.
What I'm looking for is a schedule on when the oh so important fix will be released.. Or even if it will be released.
This issue makes it fairly clear that they never tested the product with commonly available rechargeable AA's. That's a bit sloppy.
It's a deal breaker for me. I was considering the recorder, but will not consider it until they fix it. And if they choose not to issue a fix, then it would very much hurt my confidence in their brand and all but rule out considering them for any future purchase.
Long time readers will recall how we waited for microtrack fixes from m-audio and what a fiasco that became. Never again.
I had success using this 2.5 MM to 3 RCA Camcorder AV Cable for a digital connection.
Has anyone had one of our resident cable gurus make a RIGHT-ANGLE-2.5>SPIDIF for the DR-100mkii?
If so, who and how much?
Thanks!
Manley
Has anyone had one of our resident cable gurus make a RIGHT-ANGLE-2.5>SPIDIF for the DR-100mkii?
If so, who and how much?
Thanks!
Manley
I need one too, so I just sent an inquiry to Ted about making one up.
After hunting around (for the right 2.5mm Connector, thanks for pointing that out Steve) i can't seem to find a decent metal connector
Anyone have an idea what the wiring schematic would be? From the 2.5mm 4C Right Angle Plug with 12" Cable, which of the 4 wires would connect to what on the RCA plug?
I gather it would be the same as if you were connecting to video. Anyone know what that wiring scheme is?
EDIT: I just had another look at the product page, and there's a close-up of the wiring. Most probably the yellow wire is for the video connection.
The SPDIF is sharing a socket with the remote, which is why you have 4 pole for the SPDIF, you only use one of the poles and the earth the other poles on the socket side are used for the remote cable connection. Just hold the two plugs side by side the remote cable and the SPDIF cable and you will see which poles are being used by the remote the other is used by the SPDIF.
Thanks for clarifying that. I totally missed that it was a shared jack. Seems kind of silly - how much could it have cost them to put in a separate jack for the remote?
Thanks for clarifying that. I totally missed that it was a shared jack. Seems kind of silly - how much could it have cost them to put in a separate jack for the remote?
Quite a bit, actually. It would have taken up a lot of space, both outside and especially inside the device.
Thanks for clarifying that. I totally missed that it was a shared jack. Seems kind of silly - how much could it have cost them to put in a separate jack for the remote?
Quite a bit, actually. It would have taken up a lot of space, both outside and especially inside the device.
agreed. There are very few handheld digital devices these days that have an excess of spare space for additional connections.
So, I'm thinking about picking one of these up - mainly to replace the JB3 as a bitbucket for a 2nd rig, but I love the fact that it could be a good 2-ch recorder as well for lower profile gigs. Has anyone decided how the pres and A/D compare to the M-10? Better? Worse? Just a different flavor?
Would I still want to run the Busman UA-5 in front of this whenever possible? I'm assuming both the Pres and A/D would be better quality in the UA-5 - would that be a correct assumption? Would this thing accept 24-bit from the UA-5?
So, I'm thinking about picking one of these up - mainly to replace the JB3 as a bitbucket for a 2nd rig, but I love the fact that it could be a good 2-ch recorder as well for lower profile gigs. Has anyone decided how the pres and A/D compare to the M-10? Better? Worse? Just a different flavor?
Would I still want to run the Busman UA-5 in front of this whenever possible? I'm assuming both the Pres and A/D would be better quality in the UA-5 - would that be a correct assumption? Would this thing accept 24-bit from the UA-5?
I don't think there's been anything definitive stated, but the M-10 is industry best handheld for self-noise so probably safe to say that it still wins a self-noise comp. That said, I also think it's been concluded that the DR100mkII pre's are quite clean, while the flavor of the pre's (which is a subjective thing anyway) can be heard on a couple of samples that have been posted in this thread and one or two other threads in the recorder forum. Recommend reaching your own conclusion on whether or not you like the flavor.
On whether or not these would be improved by a UA-5 in front, again I think the answer would be subjective. What you'd be getting is an option to run two different flavors and whether you prefer one over the other is based on your own tastes. If you listen to the samples I posted, I can say this much...the internal pres on this sound pretty good so I don't think you'd be disappointed running without the UA-5.
Has anyone posted m10 vs mk2 pics? It's so much easier than comparing measurements...
I am really curious how the mk2 a/d performs compared to the 7xx and m10 when used with a front-end pre. But also how it runs stand-alone... More comps please! ;)
And also general subjective usability compared to the m10, which is really excellent.
Has anyone posted m10 vs mk2 pics?
I wonder if they could have knocked an inch off by eliminating the speaker and mics up top? I suppose the XLR's are up there and take a lot of room.
Yep.I wonder if they could have knocked an inch off by eliminating the speaker and mics up top? I suppose the XLR's are up there and take a lot of room.
The xlrs are on the bottom aren't they?
Yep.I wonder if they could have knocked an inch off by eliminating the speaker and mics up top? I suppose the XLR's are up there and take a lot of room.
The xlrs are on the bottom aren't they?
Can you open the Tascam up and take some shots of the guts? :P
I would be curious to know how it works with other pres / A/Ds
Well I picked one of these up last week, ran some tests at home (just to run a few tests & familiarize myself with it a bit) and then took it out for some real world festy experience this past weekend.[/i]
- Pres seem to be quiet and transparent. Not quite as much so as the Oade R-44, but pretty damn good for a $300 unit. Much better than the stock PMD-660 I had a while back.
My first listen-back after doing a comparison: the V2-> AD2k-> Dr-100 mkii was *way-way* better than using the stock DR-100 mkii's pre and a-to-d. But then I'm comparing apples and oranges, money-wise. So no big surprise here.
- battery life is much better than I expected, after what I had read here. I recorded a 2+ hour set running phantom and had 1 bar left on the Li-Ion. It didn't switch over to the AAs until after listening to some stuff on the way home (probably another hour or so)
In my experience, the internal Li-Ion batt does just OK, not great (I got 1:45:00 including phantom power to 2x Schoeps CCM4s). Its the AA's that are *terrible*: I got about 00:10:00 from the brand-new Lenmar 2500ma rechargable AA's before it switched to the internal Li-Ion (powering the CCM4s). I hope this is a Tascam firmware "fuel-gage" issue that will be fixed in a future firmware update, as I believe someone has stated that the DR-2d has been fixes in its 1.03 firmware version.
- it does NOT accept 24-bit from the Busman UA-5. It DOES accept 16-bit, although that definitely limits its use as a bitbucket (until I can upgrade my preamp anyway). I would be curious to know how it works with other pres / A/Ds
I think I had problems locking at 24/96 but that may have been human error--I'll check that again and report back.
Just finished reading all the pages here.
Wow.
Fantastic review, covered most every question I could have!
I was just noticing that the the cost of R-44s is now up to almost what Doug charges for one he's modded:
http://www.oade.com/digital_recorders/hard_disc_recorders/upgrades.html
when I scrolled down to see that he does mods on the DR100.
do you think that also applies to the MKII?
I've been meaning to call him, but since I'm not ready to push the button any anything just yet, I haven't gotten around to it.
he lowest price I've found on these is $300, and if you add a $125 mod and some shipping, that's pretty good.
I emailed Oade and he isn't going to mod the DR100 mkii
I emailed Oade and he isn't going to mod the DR100 mkii
Too bad.
I was looking into it today and thinking that could be the perfect all-in-one with the mod.
Just picked one up yesterday (B&H had them listed online at 269)...looking forward to trying it out. I'm going to try running the SPDIF from a UA-5 digimod to the digital in.
Echoing an earlier post, what are people planning to use for external power? I just picked up a Chinese knock-off 5v/9v/12v external and running that either into the DC in or the USB in. I'll let you know how it works.
The only deck that I know of that had mods done out of necessity was the 660, which I have.
It was nearly unusable with amplified music as an all in one without the mod I have read.
I like my mixpre / M10. What did I need this for?
The BP-L2 Li-ion battery is rated 3.7V and 1800 mah.
Alkalines are rated 1.5V and 1800 - 2400 mah each...so a pair provides a capacity of 3V and 3600 mah minimum.
NiMH are rated 1.25V and 800 to 2400 mah each...so a pair provides a capacity of 2.5V and 1600 mah minimum.
What this tells me is that AAs SHOULD be giving longer run times than the Li-ion. Regardless, just by comparing the ratings, you shouldn't be getting a fraction of the run-time from the AAs than you get from the Li-ion.
Having said this, the specs of the unit say that the maximum draw is 4W...that's very high compared to other devices, but that still doesn't explain the differences in run-time between the two.
QuoteThe BP-L2 Li-ion battery is rated 3.7V and 1800 mah.
Alkalines are rated 1.5V and 1800 - 2400 mah each...so a pair provides a capacity of 3V and 3600 mah minimum.
NiMH are rated 1.25V and 800 to 2400 mah each...so a pair provides a capacity of 2.5V and 1600 mah minimum.
What this tells me is that AAs SHOULD be giving longer run times than the Li-ion. Regardless, just by comparing the ratings, you shouldn't be getting a fraction of the run-time from the AAs than you get from the Li-ion.
Having said this, the specs of the unit say that the maximum draw is 4W...that's very high compared to other devices, but that still doesn't explain the differences in run-time between the two.
I just ran a test with a Rode NTG-3 using phantom power and got 44 minutes of continues recording time. When I went back to look at peoples comments and I think you might be wrong on your calculations for the Alkaline. It appears the battery is hooked up in series so I think the 2 batteries together would provide 3 volts at 1800 to 2400 mAh. I looked anthoer website that seems to validate my thinking.
Let me know if I am wrong.
And a HUGE THANKS for such an excellent review!!!
Instead of posting in review section I should maybe post in DR100mkII 'problems' ....
Those damn silly rubber feet on the unit ... one was missing when I took it from the box. Now, two more have fallen off from simple movement. Little things get my goat. I've replaced them with more durable pads.
Battery ... what gives?? No more than 3 hours on the internal running built in mic. I bought an extra anticipating low life, but this is LOW. Running phantom tomorrow with mics drawing 3.3 mA each. Hope it is a short set. And, is 5 hours a normal recharge time via USB?
Now, I can't seem to get anything from the speaker. Any trick to this? Anything more than switch on bottom and headphone / line out unplugged? Manual doesn't indicate a menu adjustment.
I like my mixpre / M10. What did I need this for?
Here's a recent show I taped with the DR100mkII... (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=155386.0) The unit worked surprisingly well in the stealth-without-guilt situation (i.e. I had no problems finding any buttons in the dark).As large as the DR100mkII is, it is smaller than my old Sony Pro Walkman WM-D6C the old standard. Oh how times have changed.
Here's a recent show I taped with the DR100mkII... (http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=155386.0) The unit worked surprisingly well in the stealth-without-guilt situation (i.e. I had no problems finding any buttons in the dark).As large as the DR100mkII is, it is smaller than my old Sony Pro Walkman WM-D6C the old standard. Oh how times have changed.
Took my MkII out for the first time last night, running through a digimod UA-5 into the digital in. I'm very pleased with the sound, but I am concerned about external power.
EDIT: Forgot to mention initially, I had trouble running 24/96 from the preamp, but I could get locked in at 24/48. I need to play around with it more, I'm sure, but that seems...concerning.
- it does NOT accept 24-bit from the Busman UA-5. It DOES accept 16-bit, although that definitely limits its use as a bitbucket (until I can upgrade my preamp anyway). I would be curious to know how it works with other pres / A/Ds
Make sure you have set the correct mode in order to record at 96 kHz. You must be in HS mode. See pages 25-26 of the manual:
"Mode selection
You can set the operation mode used for recording and playback.
Setting the mode
1. While pressing the ENTER/MARK button press the button to turn the power ON and open the MODE SELECT screen.
STD (default) Standard mode for using WAV files with sampling frequencies of 44.1 or 48 kHz and MP3 files
HS Mode for using WAV files with sampling frequencies of 44.1, 48 or 96 kHz
2. Use the wheel to select the mode to use, and press the ENTER/MARK button to confirm the setting. The unit will start in the selected mode.
NOTE: The selected mode setting is retained and will be used the next time the unit power is turned ON."
Massive Dynamic--
I did have the DR-100 set to the HS setting, set to record at 24/96. The problem was, it was not recognizing a digital signal from the UA-5 when the UA-5 was set to 96 khz. When I changed the UA-5 to 48 khz, things ran normally.
Massive Dynamic--
I did have the DR-100 set to the HS setting, set to record at 24/96. The problem was, it was not recognizing a digital signal from the UA-5 when the UA-5 was set to 96 khz. When I changed the UA-5 to 48 khz, things ran normally.
Not to belabor the point, but do the 48k files you recorded from the UA-5 to the DR-100mkii show up as 16-bit or 24-bit files in an audio editor? Still trying to understand alpine85's comment about 16-bit files. thx
Massive Dynamic--
I did have the DR-100 set to the HS setting, set to record at 24/96. The problem was, it was not recognizing a digital signal from the UA-5 when the UA-5 was set to 96 khz. When I changed the UA-5 to 48 khz, things ran normally.
Not to belabor the point, but do the 48k files you recorded from the UA-5 to the DR-100mkii show up as 16-bit or 24-bit files in an audio editor? Still trying to understand alpine85's comment about 16-bit files. thx
I think he had the recorder set to accept 16 bits - the other 8 bits are truncated...resulting in a 16 bit file.
I just bought a DR100mKII and i would like to ask you something about it:
Is it possible to power a set of DPA 4021 or 4022 with it?
Thxs
I just bought a DR100mKII and i would like to ask you something about it:
Is it possible to power a set of DPA 4021 or 4022 with it?
Thxs
Probably should have thought about that before you sprung for the new recorder... ;)
It should work, though. The Tascam puts out 48V phantom and the DPAs are pretty moderate in their current requirements.
How are people powering this thing (while supplying 48V phantom) for festivals?
^^^ Those DPAs are spec'ed for 48V phantom (http://www.dpamicrophones.com/en/products.aspx?c=item&category=233&item=24026#specifications (http://www.dpamicrophones.com/en/products.aspx?c=item&category=233&item=24026#specifications)), so it should be OK.
Bought a DR-100MKII and used it for the 1st time the other day. Seriously NOT IMPRESSED at all.
This comment probably belongs in the Remote Power subforum but whatever...it applies here. I also bought a Tascam BP-6AA for external power. It uses 6 AA batteries to supply 5V to the A/C power jack. I should have known it would not be efficient since 6 AA = 7.2V. They are stepping the voltage down in this box. There is a green 'on' light and a red 'low power' light. The red light came on after 1 hour. The green light turned off after 1.5 hours. It continued to power the recorder with only the red indicator on. It only lasted for a total of 4 hours. Used 2600mah AA's with phantom power on (powering AT4053a's).
How are people powering this thing (while supplying 48V phantom) for festivals?
Bought a DR-100MKII and used it for the 1st time the other day. Seriously NOT IMPRESSED at all.
This comment probably belongs in the Remote Power subforum but whatever...it applies here. I also bought a Tascam BP-6AA for external power. It uses 6 AA batteries to supply 5V to the A/C power jack. I should have known it would not be efficient since 6 AA = 7.2V. They are stepping the voltage down in this box. There is a green 'on' light and a red 'low power' light. The red light came on after 1 hour. The green light turned off after 1.5 hours. It continued to power the recorder with only the red indicator on. It only lasted for a total of 4 hours. Used 2600mah AA's with phantom power on (powering AT4053a's).
How are people powering this thing (while supplying 48V phantom) for festivals?
Tondeaf states his review post (the 1st post in this topic) that you can feed it 5 volt power via Radio Shack Adaptaplug B. I use an Energizer XP8000 to power my USBPre2 with it's 5 volt output and found it easy to use. Prices seem to have skyrocketed on the XP8000 (I bought mine for $40) but I would give it a positive review. Make yourself or have one of our cable makers a USB to B cable and your good to go.
Tondeaf states his review post (the 1st post in this topic) that you can feed it 5 volt power via Radio Shack Adaptaplug B. I use an Energizer XP8000 to power my USBPre2 with it's 5 volt output and found it easy to use. Prices seem to have skyrocketed on the XP8000 (I bought mine for $40) but I would give it a positive review. Make yourself or have one of our cable makers a USB to B cable and your good to go.
It should also run just fine off of one of these - http://www.amazon.com/Digicom-DC-EPP3000-Xtreme-Power-Pack/dp/B00028VKRM (12 bucks!)
Haven't tested this one specifically, but it looks just like the old "PP-99", which some of you may have laying around from the old days of powering a JB3. I have tested the PP-99 and it works just fine with the Tascam. Not sure about the battery life with phantom on, but the Tascam shows "AC" when it's hooked up, and says the internals are charging.
In fact the MK2 has exactly the same power config as the JB3 - 5V with a "B" tip (this battery has a "N" tip, btw). The AC adapter is almost identical too - other than the Tascam spec is "2.0A" and the JB3 is "2.4A" (this wouldn't make a difference, would it?). Wish I would have known this before I wasted $20 on the Tascam power supply!
Just got my dr100mk2 modded by busman. I should get it back tomorrow. And once I get a pull I report in.
Just got my dr100mk2 modded by busman. I should get it back tomorrow. And once I get a pull I report in.
Just got my dr100mk2 modded by busman. I should get it back tomorrow. And once I get a pull I report in.
Interesting...I sent him an email about a month ago asking whether he was doing mods and never got a reply. Guess he doesn't want the business :shrug:
I do have a matched pair of Rode NT-5s that I use for drum overheads. Though not an ideal mic and definitely not stealth, I am guessing they will be better than the internals in certain situations.
[Prices seem to have skyrocketed on the XP8000 (I bought mine for $40) but I would give it a positive review. Make yourself or have one of our cable makers a USB to B cable and your good to go.
Just got my dr100mk2 modded by busman. I should get it back tomorrow. And once I get a pull I report in.
Oade might start modding these!! He said, that he is waiting to make sure they don't have issues like the original DR100.Just got my dr100mk2 modded by busman. I should get it back tomorrow. And once I get a pull I report in.
Oade might start modding these!! He said, that he is waiting to make sure they don't have issues like the original DR100.Just got my dr100mk2 modded by busman. I should get it back tomorrow. And once I get a pull I report in.
Doug told me he had no plans to offer mods for the MKII and recommended that I get rid of it and find an original DR-100. Didn't mention any problems with the original and, in fact, said the original was the better deck of the two for all-in-one concert recording.
^ oh well, I guess he's losing his memory or something. That's pretty much the exact opposite of what he told me.
a concert mod on one would make a nice all in one.
a concert mod on one would make a nice all in one.
I agree, it would. After running the MKII for a few more shows, I'm actually not as discouraged with it as I was at first. When using the internal pre, the noise floor is a bit higher than most people would like but it's not terrible if the music is loud. I can see how it wouldn't be good for acoustic music or anything that needs a lot of gain. A concert mod seems like it would take care of the noise issue. Other than the noise floor I think the MKII pre sounds great for the price.
(in other words, it's not so bad that I would spend double the price on a used PMD 661...really the only upgrade that I see as worthwhile for an all in one would be to a DR-680 or R-44)
The lack of directional mics. I don't plan to purchase any external microphones so not having UNIs was a deal breaker for me.
They cost $450 plus 13% sales tax in Canada which is ridiculous!
Also, fwiw and ymmv, but I think NiMH is a much more reliable, robust, and durable rechargeable battery technology compared to the Li-ion or Li-poly rechargeables that are used in the DR100 mkII. Li-ion and esp Li-poly are much more prone to failure. Though again, a good charging circuit probably helps loads, and the DR100 may have that.
^^^ With line-in, you'll need to record something pretty loud to get decent levels. Especially since I am under the impression that the CA14s are fairly low sensitivity. If you want to make sure the jack is working properly, you could feed it a line level signal from a CD player or something...
The manual indicates that if using the digital input the sampling rate of the recorder must match the incoming signal's sample rate or you will receive an error.
Why not just run it at a reasonable level and then you don't have to sacrifice stereo recording? A completely useless feature if you ask me.
Some better battery life news.
I ran my Beyerdynamic 930's into the XLR of the DR100mkii, using rechargeable Eneloop AA's, with phantom power on, 24/96, and got just under 1 hr 40 min recording time.
Is that with or without the Li-ion internal battery?
That is without the Li-ion battery. That is using the AA's alone.
When I tested the Li-ion alone I got about 3 1/4 hours with phantom on.
I think about 5 hours on the combination of internal batteries with phantom power is not too shabby.
Anyone ever have this happen? (see attached photo) First time out with my brand spanking new DR100mkii, 36 minutes into a fine Tedeschi Trucks Band set and the display went blank. I had my trusty DR2D running along side so had a backup so I turned of the DR100 and started it up again. Same thing. Looked at the memory card when I got home and the bits were saved just fine, only the display went wonky and continues to be blank. I'm thinking mine is defective from the factory but thought I would ask here first incase there is a simple fix.
I had the DR100mkii attached to Steve's old V3. Must have been the V3 that caused it ;DI was sitting next to rodeen last night and I'd definitely say it was Steve's fault 8)
I've only had the deck for a week or so. It'll be going back to Amazon for a replacement.
What's funny is I never run a backup deck but I recently added a GAKable V3 analog > 3.5mm to my arsenal and wanted to give it a try. Ted's fine work saved my recording. TTB were stellar as always.
I ran my Neumann SKM-184>V3>DR2D. Tracking it right now. Watch for Cliff's KM-185>SD>DR100mkii?. Can't wait to hear the 184's and 185's side by side. His DR100mkii worked flawlessly. I knew I should have brought my Microtrack instead!! ;D
SD USBPre2 with those damn taper porn lights on the front!
Here are links to my pull:
LMA: http://archive.org/details/ttb2013-06-19.km184.flac16
bt.etree: http://bt.etree.org/details.php?id=564845
Hope you like it!
so just got one of these and I see in this thread there was some talk to making a right angle plug connector for the digi in...did anyone ever do that or find a source for one?
hey !
can someone please tell me how long the recorder will run while powering 2 LINE CM3 mics with 48Volt :shrug:
would be just awesome,
thanks !
pillowman
I haven’t run my old DR100mkii for 5-6 years, but I used to get about 40 minutes with AA batteries. A simple 5V usb external battery should give you a few hours.hey !
can someone please tell me how long the recorder will run while powering 2 LINE CM3 mics with 48Volt :shrug:
would be just awesome,
thanks !
pillowman
I haven’t run my old DR100mkii for 5-6 years, but I used to get about 40 minutes with AA batteries. A simple 5V usb external battery should give you a few hours.hey !
can someone please tell me how long the recorder will run while powering 2 LINE CM3 mics with 48Volt :shrug:
would be just awesome,
thanks !
pillowman
Thanks for your reply. So you mean a powerbank ?
:shrug:
Thanks
Yes, a power bank battery. I had a handheld one about the size of a bar of soap that I used. Larger sized battery will give you more runtime.I haven’t run my old DR100mkii for 5-6 years, but I used to get about 40 minutes with AA batteries. A simple 5V usb external battery should give you a few hours.hey !
can someone please tell me how long the recorder will run while powering 2 LINE CM3 mics with 48Volt :shrug:
would be just awesome,
thanks !
pillowman
Thanks for your reply. So you mean a powerbank ?
:shrug:
Thanks