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Gear / Technical Help => Recording Gear => Topic started by: T.J. on September 09, 2004, 12:30:00 PM
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Okay...I just used my new M1 at moe.down for the first time and I'm ready to transfer to CD using a Harman/Kardon CDR 26 burner. before I can do this though, I need to add track marks to the DATs so it doesn't have to be done manually during the burning process. IMO, the M1's manual is very difficult to understand. I know this is probably a very simple process, but I'm apprehensive to try it without talking to someone who has used the M1 in the past. Anyone who is experienced with this process please help......
t.j.
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I can't help with your immediate question, but if it were me I'd:
[1] transfer / burn to a single track
[2] rip (DAE) with EAC
[3] do the track splitting on my PC with CD-Wave
[4] archive to FLAC
[5] burn audio discs
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eventually when my computer is up and running I will be able to, however since i'm only transfering from DAT to CDR this is not an option at the present moment.
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I can't help with your immediate question, but if it were me I'd:
[1] transfer / burn to a single track
[2] rip (DAE) with EAC
[3] do the track splitting on my PC with CD-Wave
[4] archive to FLAC
[5] burn audio discs
Listen to the man, he knows what he's talking about.
You say it's not an option now..
Take Brians advise (at least step #1), then when you can go to a computer, you'll already have a complete set without track marks. This will make for a cleaner "rip", I would think.
Then transfer to CD-R with the tracks added. Best of both worlds ;D
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The way I read my D100 manual, the process for adding Start IDs (track #s) during playback:
[1] Press the START ID*MODE button repeatedly until the AUTO-ID indicator turns OFF. You don't want the deck to automatically assign START IDs as I suspect it'll screw it up (i.e. put the IDs in the wrong place) or not work at all.
[2] RW/FF through the tape to find the location where you'd like to write your START ID. When you find the spot, stop the tape, and press the START ID*ENTER button.
[3] The deck will play the 3 seconds surrounding the point at which you pressed the START ID*ENTER button. This 3-second window just allows you to fine-tune your START ID selection point. So within the 3 second window, press the START ID*ENTER button again to select the precise location of the START ID.
[4] Repeat [2-3] for each track number you want to write. *
[/list]
* It's unclear to me how you close a START ID writing session. I suspect all you have to do is press STOP after you're done writing a START ID and then RW/FF to find your next location.
DONE!!! Unless you want to move your START ID forward or back becuase you're unhappy with the precise START ID location you selected in [3]. The way I read it, you can only move the START ID within the session during which you write the START ID, i.e. you can't come back to it later after writing other START IDs. To move the START ID forward or back:
[5] Press the |<< << or >> >>| button. Each press of the button will move the START ID 0.3 seconds in whichever direction you select.[/list]
I don't know if that helps at all, but say give it a go - I don't think you can damage your recording just by writing START IDs. Just don't accidently record over your show! :P If you're really paranoid about screwing it up:
- First transfer to CD with no track markers (START IDs)
- Confirm a successful, glitch-free transfer
- Add track markers to the DAT
- If you screw it up somehow, you know you have a backup copy of the recording on CD
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Is there really much difference -timewise - between doing them only fly on the M1 versus the CDR?
Both will be somewhat time consuming...and it sounds like you would be wearing out your DAT deck with a lot of FF and RW.
Plus I'd be wary of anything that wants to re-write to the tape...
Do todays CD recorders even understand DAT start IDs? - I remember my first CDR (marantz CDR610) would not understand DAT start IDs...but that was in 1993 when blank discs cost 14 bucks a piece...!!!
When you are recording live - at the show -try to do the indexing on the fly - just hit the "rec" button everytime you want to add a Start ID (this is for the D7/8 - not sure it's the same on the M1)
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I can't help with your immediate question, but if it were me I'd:
[1] transfer / burn to a single track
[2] rip (DAE) with EAC
[3] do the track splitting on my PC with CD-Wave
[4] archive to FLAC
[5] burn audio discs
thanks Brian for the suggestion. I have given up on attempting to place track marks on my master copy in fear that the tape may be eaten (especially since I taped using DDS 90/m). I wish I could transfer/burn to a single track, but for some reason by H/K CDR 26 will automatically place track marks (most of the time when levels are low). So, in between songs during a set, my burner will place up to 5 seperate two second tracks in between songs. It is very frustrating b/c I thought since this is a digital transfer (using my 7-pin coax out) my H/K CDR 26 would recognize the signal and continue to record a single track ???
Well, I almost have enough money for a new CPU, which I think will make life easier. Is an Edirol UA-D1 a good option to transfer from M1 to CPU?
thanks again in advance,
t.j.
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hey tj, id love to grab your copy of moe from 9/3/04, it seems i have a weird digi-noise-ish sound from about buster>on, is this in your source too ???
anyhoo, hope ya dig the quality :)
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bean, haven't played around with it too much yet given this problem I've ran into. plus i've been working like a dog. the quality on the 9/3/04 set sounds really nice ;D (haven't noticed anything from buster on) whenever I figure this out and get a clear copy I'll drop you a line
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suite, thanks tj, and a big ole +T for ya :)
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Well, I almost have enough money for a new CPU, which I think will make life easier. Is an Edirol UA-D1 a good option to transfer from M1 to CPU?
Nope, the UA-1D is not bit-perfect, as are all Edirol products...
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hey just wondering DAE and EAC (exact audio copy??) stand for
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DAE = Digital Audio Extraction
EAC = Exact Audio Copy
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all you have to do to get your HK CDR 26 to stop writing track marks is press the AUTO/MAN button on the remote while recording. if it's in Manual mode it should display MANUAL at the top center of the display.
http://manuals.harman.com/HK/Owner%27s%20Manual/CDR%2026%20OM%20(final)%20rev.%203-28-03.pdf
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WOW....do i feel like a horses ass...cooker you are the man. i NEVER use the remote that came with my H/K CDR 26 so i never thought to look for a manual/auto button on it. THANK YOU very much...you have solved a puzzle that has pissed me off for a while. (i owe you a +T)