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Gear / Technical Help => Remote Power => Topic started by: Gordon on April 03, 2019, 01:36:23 PM
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I have one of these that takes and holds a charge but no longer outputs power. so assuming something is wrong with the output connection.
https://www.amazon.com/Initial-RB-270-Lithium-Ion-Universal-Rechargeable/dp/B0002J9QXG
If anyone can use this just pay shipping and it's yours. Battery only no charging cable as I need it for the 1 remaining battery I have.
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i was surprised and delighted when i busted out the V3>AD2K rig for first time in a decade that the old tekkeons i had were fine. didnt do detailed runtime tests on either, but with one battery each on the V3 and AD2K I ran a 2.5 hour set and were still about half charge afterwards
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Isn't there someplace that refers these?
I seem to remember a thread about this but I can't find it now.
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Most folks have now moved on. The cells could be replaced, but the ultimate death of my DVD batteries was the loss of function of the built-in power meter, after which I no longer dared rely on them.
Take a look at TalentCell an inexpensive and more or less a direct replacement with similar functionality and increased capacity for the same size. Primary difference is TalentCell has an on/off rocker switch, where DVD batts were "always on". Various capacities are available, all of which exceed old DVD batt capacity. I think the smaller ones around the size of old DVD batts may only provide 12VDC and 5V USB out, but if you need 9V, the larger ones have both 9V and 12V ports that can be used simultaneously.
I made the switch a few years ago and have not looked back since.
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Did you find anything smaller or lighter than the DVD batteries?
Looks like I'll need to replace 4 of them and that's 4 lbs I'd like to lose!
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I bought the bigger size TalentCell (about the size of two DVD batteries) and it can run my rig for an entire weekend fest, which used to require about two DVD batteries per day. But I bought a second as backup so I typically alternate them day to day. The smaller ones are about the same size as one DVD battery and I bet two of those will do you in place of 4 older DVDs quite easily.
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I bought the bigger size TalentCell (about the size of two DVD batteries) and it can run my rig for an entire weekend fest, which used to require about two DVD batteries per day. But I bought a second as backup so I typically alternate them day to day. The smaller ones are about the same size as one DVD battery and I bet two of those will do you in place of 4 older DVDs quite easily.
Completely agree with Gutbucket on this one. The TalentCell batteries aren't that much bigger or heavier but last a LOOOOOOONG time. Everybody I know up my way who's still in the game made the jump to these at the start of the summer and none of us have looked back.
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Are these still the battery of choice ?
Steve
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I prefer new TallentCells these days, but Ted currently has a load of DVD batteries for sale in the yard for an attractive price if you want to stick with them- https://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=193615.msg2323586#msg2323586
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I really do like our Talentcell 8300 mAh power banks. They run a V2 plus multi channel deck for hours. I have two for festies or to run a second Grace pre-amp.
https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-11000mAh-20000mAh-Portable/dp/B01337QXMA/ref=pd_sbs_421_6/132-4101393-3123665?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01337QXMA&pd_rd_r=4f9b58ce-d0e0-4e24-9e29-c6448090baca&pd_rd_w=m8rPM&pd_rd_wg=Qa5Mg&pf_rd_p=7cd8f929-4345-4bf2-a554-7d7588b3dd5f&pf_rd_r=KHN3GMGB0BT7XX94Y8GZ&psc=1&refRID=KHN3GMGB0BT7XX94Y8GZ
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I'm a big fan of using 18650 enclosures. This has the added benefit of stretching the life of any cells you might have (when my 9v DVD batteries' meters stop working, I crack them open and harvest the cells (OG rating = 2000mah, usual rating after 10 years of decent use = 1500-1800mah).
One of the enclosures I use takes 6 cells and it can be set for 3.6/5/6/9/12/15/16/19/21 volts:
Ebay link (https://www.ebay.com/i/253762457786?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=253762457786&targetid=877674279770&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9004283&poi=&campaignid=9418895003&mkgroupid=92907999782&rlsatarget=pla-877674279770&abcId=1141016&merchantid=118848642&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtOjyBRC0ARIsAIpJyGNJsAGCSW8IdbLnCglormWxr2ZU0sV18X8Ouf43jUCEMn35625HU9waAlI4EALw_wcB)
Ali Express link (cheaper but requires login) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33046044224.html)
Another enclosure I use takes 8 cells, has a higher amperage rating, a nicer display, and can be set continuously from 4 - 20 volts (states 24 volts but that was an older model that no longer ships):
Ebay link (https://www.ebay.com/itm/No-Battery-QD188-PD-Dual-USB-QC-3-0-Type-C-PD-DC-Output-DIY-Fast-Charger/223791690138?hash=item341b06319a:g:Eh0AAOSwXmhd8aIA)
Ali Express link (cheaper but requires login) (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000433578915.html)
The first enclosures run my audio and video gear no problem and hold the same number of cells as the 9v DVDs. The second enclosure can run all that and my Macbook Pro. After using the sealed enclosures for over 10 years, I'm happy to have something where the cells can easily be swapped when they are dead or have reached their EOL.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ links require login. Great idea though
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Added some ebay links for the same product, but they're a bit more than Ali. I would certainly shop around... The 6 cell one I see for around $13-15 and the 8 cell for around $30-40 (shipped, always from China).
Edit: One thing to note about the 6-cell enclosure... for some reason some sets of cells (not all for some reason) slightly overcharge in it to around 4.26v instead of 4.2v (the cells are arranged 2p3s so charge ends at 12.8 instead of 12.6). For that reason I rarely charge the cells in the enclosure, using a dedicated 18650 charger most of the time.
Also, it's technically possible to hotswap the cells in either of these units while the unit is running (although I'm not sure I'd have the balls to do so, and wouldn't need to since I always have a redundancy). The cells are grouped into pairs of parallel groups and you can remove and replace a cell from each of these pairs while still running the unit. In fact, both units can continuously operate with half the number of cells, if arranged properly.
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I attached some photos for size comparison...
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^ Cool option! Thanks.
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Wow.
OK. this is some pretty cool stuff but I don't think I have the balls to crack open my DVD batteries and see what's happening inside. Then try to harvest those batteries into an enclosure and work that into the mix.
But it might be more cost effective than buying new TalentCells and new cables for everything. For me that's 5 new cables or at least 5 that have to be re-tipped.
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Some things to consider...
With the enclosures, you don't HAVE to harvest your old cells. You can buy new, higher capacity cells. I have some new Panasonics with 3400 mah, which is 1400 more than the cells in the DVD batts were when new. Those are my first line and then I turn to the older cells for longer runs. Your average deck at your average concert, 6 new cells is more than enough and you wouldn't even need to think about using your backup line unless at a festival. For me, sometimes I will do festivals with video, audio, and streaming from a laptop, so having a large cache of newer and older cells that can power everything is ideal.
The Talentcell has one very big advantage... an on/off switch. I assume this means it can run something even with a very low current without shutting off. The enclosures I use have an auto shut-off when the current drops below a certain threshold. The 6-cell enclosure has a lower threshold... it will run a dr680 (about 200-250mA) without shutting off, but it won't run a small converter box (coaxial > toslink) which draws somewhere around 50mA. The larger 8-cell enclosure will shut off if just running the dr680, but will stay on when running a V3 (around 400-450mA), and also (obviously) if running both a V3 and dr680 simultaneously (around 600mA). Mostly I use the 8-cell enclosure to run my laptop and the 6-cell enclosures to run preamp/recorder/video camera/lights.
A third thing to consider... the 6-cell enclosure has an input and output port and it can be charged at the same time it is used, making it work as a UPS. The 8-cell enclosure has one port for input and output and works sort of the way a lead-acid battery would work, where you can variably charge and discharge from the same connection. This means it can't be used as a UPS and it can't be used as a redundancy (where you have two power sources of the same voltage connected with a parallel cable to a single device).
Oh, also... the 6-cell enclosure has a 5.5mmX2.1mm connector, and the 8-cell has a 5.5mmX2.5mm connector... neither of those are the 4.0mmX1.7mm of the DVD battery output port, so new cables or modding the ones you have would be necessary (I would not recommend using adapters, though they are available).
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So I just bought that lot that Ted had for $50 and I gotta say, after testing what I got, I got a great deal. I'm using some as is and I'm cracking some to harvest cells, but one thing I've discovered is that the faulty power meter LEDs should be an easy fix... it is the actual push button that is broken. You can get instantaneous buttons like that for a few cents from China and it looks like a fairly straight-forward solder job, right on the edge of the circuit board. I wouldn't mind taking up the mantle of refurbing these if there is any interest. I might even go ahead and use some of the shells I have to put some refurbs together for sale.
Edit: I just bought 100 pieces of the momentary switch needed to get the meters working again.
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^ A great recycle. Failure of the meters was what killed them for me. Good to hear you found a fix for that.
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Yes, the meter was the primary reason I started moving toward the enclosures. I mean, they all have their pros and cons, it's good to have a couple things to choose from. I took one of the faulty buttons apart to diagnose the cause of failure... it's malachite. That is, oxidized copper. There is a concave, copper plate inside the button and when you press down it bridges the copper contacts inside. Problem is, those contacts had a nice layer of malachite on them. It could technically be scraped off, but taking the button apart is a one-way job. And at about $.02 to replace the part, it shouldn't even be a second thought.
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I flooded a bit of Deoxit around the switch, and that fixed a couple of mine.
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After I made the above post, faced with the month it's gonna take to get the parts from China, I did manage to refurb one of the existing buttons. It takes some real care to disassemble in a way that allows reassembly, but I managed to pull it off and got the button working after scraping away the oxidation. A nice proof of concept, but I'm going to save the rest for the new parts.