Topic: TASCAM DR-680 portable 8-track #4

[kirk97132]

I got my DR-680 back from Teac today.
They gave it a clean bill of health. The service manager, Jim, told me my issue was probably the 9v DVD battery I was using. I tend to agree. So, I'm going to start using it with a 12v SLA. So, I'm packing lead again. I'm a pack mule anyway, with all the stuff I carry. 

Can you elaborate on the 9volt issue?  Did anything specific get mentioned?  Really curious since I use the 9V DVD batteries a lot

[Chuck]

I only had trouble when it was really hot out. Like 90 degrees and above and when I was running more than one set of mics.
I'm going back to 12v with an SLA to see how that works. Jim at TEAC repair seemed to think it was the 9v DVD battery I was using.

[Myco]

I only had trouble when it was really hot out. Like 90 degrees and above and when I was running more than one set of mics.
I'm going back to 12v with an SLA to see how that works. Jim at TEAC repair seemed to think it was the 9v DVD battery I was using.

If you have the extra $ to spend, get a batterygeek 12V lithium. I have bought three in the past few years and they are excellent. I don't miss slinging the lead one bit. There is always the Tekkeon option also, if you set it to 12V manually you should be fine, I use my Tekkeon for my 680, and the lithiums for my pre-amps. The Tekkeon isn't very pre-amp friendly, it dies prematurely powering them, but lasts forever with the 680.

[Myco]

I was only running one set of mics into the digi in for the test, so if the 680 was passing signal it must have been locked. I tried jiggling the connection after it was DIN locked and I saw no change, so I think it was the 680 digi connection rather than the cable being bad or not fully inserted. Trust me, when it failed to DIN lock initially I removed the cable and reinserted many times in frustration. I changed almost all of the settings back and forth like was suggested, but to no avail then. I think that the 680 digi in just needed it's cherry popped for some reason, but now I can't make it lose signal without fully removing the cables.

[H₂O]

Lower voltage = higher current on a DC-DC converter  which may damage the DC-DC converter.

Tascam should publish the specs, but if they rate the Voltage at 12V then you typically have a 15% wiggle room or 10.2V - 13.8V anything out side this range may damage the equipment period and it may take time for the damage to rear it's head. 

I still find it funny that people seem that batteries have to be under $30 on a $800 recorder and with $1000+ of other gear.  If you are going to spend that kind of money on gear get over the cheap batteries and power it with rated batteries.  The DVD battery may work great with most equipment but not all.

[Chuck]

For me, it's not prudent to spend $100 - $300 on a battery.

[kirk97132]

I know the Tascam HD-P2 ran in a voltage range, but the 680 only list 12V.  when I asked the tech guy at tascam he said "the manual says 12 volts" not really much help quoting the manual.   It would be nice to know if in fact it does operate on a voltage range like the P2.  I use the DVD batteries because I had them, a lot of them.  And I have one of those China Tang-Tang multi volt batteries which was 40 bucks.  But running the DVD batteries from day one on two different machines and I've had no issues that I am aware of.  I have run all channels phantom mics including a set that draws 10mA each( very high) and even with switching to AC power between sets I could not hear or see any changes.  It could be the Phantom voltage suffers but I have not confirmed this.  I bought a 680 as soon as them were released and so far so good.   I think since the DVD batteries are now costing $50 and up if I need to replace a battery I'd most likely get a 12V version.  But I am not going to spend 1/3 of the cost of the recorder on a battery.

[dlh]

Regarding 12v power, I posted this a while ago.
I already had a bunch of Nimh AA's so I built a box with two 12v sleds in parallel.
I always run this with AA's in the 680 also, but it's never switched over to them.
If my memory is correct, I got 4-5 hrs. out of the double 12v AA sleds.
For me, it was cost effective because I already had the AA's.
The downside is always manipulating the batteries in and out of the chargers.
The jack on the back fits my other stuff too.

[kirk97132]

Regarding 12v power, I posted this a while ago.
I already had a bunch of Nimh AA's so I built a box with two 12v sleds in parallel.
I always run this with AA's in the 680 also, but it's never switched over to them.
If my memory is correct, I got 4-5 hrs. out of the double 12v AA sleds.
For me, it was cost effective because I already had the AA's.
The downside is always manipulating the batteries in and out of the chargers.
The jack on the back fits my other stuff too.

Cool battery sled!  The Nimh beggs another question.  The total output is 9.6V and that is at a full charge.  Following that logic it sure seems like a 9V souce would be good to run the 680

[bobbygeeWOW]

Hey guys, I find that using good power supplies is extremely important for reliability over time and for consistent behavior during that time.
Battery power is great with a nice clean sine wave but personally I insist on running at manufacturer's specs.

I've been using a batterygeek to run both dr-680 and v3 at 12V.
Runs for bloody ever.
For house power I bring my own notch filter to condition the power before feeding it to a nice power supply that feeds the whole rig.
Just my opinion of course so do whatcha will but if if your gear behaves oddly at 9V, suspect the power supply...

[dlh]

Regarding 12v power, I posted this a while ago.
I already had a bunch of Nimh AA's so I built a box with two 12v sleds in parallel.
I always run this with AA's in the 680 also, but it's never switched over to them.
If my memory is correct, I got 4-5 hrs. out of the double 12v AA sleds.
For me, it was cost effective because I already had the AA's.
The downside is always manipulating the batteries in and out of the chargers.
The jack on the back fits my other stuff too.

Cool battery sled!  The Nimh beggs another question.  The total output is 9.6V and that is at a full charge.  Following that logic it sure seems like a 9V souce would be good to run the 680

That's a really good point.
I just based mine on the internal 8 AA's.
I'm gonna fill that sled tomorrow and put a meter on it just to see what it puts out.
I'll try to remember to check it the next time I'm out after I'm finished to see what it drops to.

Dave

[moodymarco]

Hey Folks,

Going back to some digital sync problems in between the R680 and some preamps ...
So, I bought a new shielded coax cable, and tested it successfully in between my soundcard (EMU 1616M) and my JoeMeek TwinQ. Here, everything works as it should ...

I then went back to the DR680, and then again, it was impossible to have the two of them working together.
Tried a bit of everything, but unsuccessfully (every frequencies again,  moving the cable slightly, tried different settings within the menus of the DR680, especially the REC mix channel INPUT, the I/O input for the channel 5/6 and the digital output (AES/SPDIF) ....)

I contacted Tascam Europe (Germany) this morning ... I start to wonder if my unit is not faulty or doesn't have something wrong going on, as I find very strange that connecting the two devices together worked perfectly fine for Kirkd, and not for me:

I used a twinQ for a couple of months with a 680 and had no issues. So it has been too long to remember exactly how the meek works but verify that you have selected the output you want IE: SPDIF (or AES can't remember if the twinQ has aes out).  I had used a coaz rca output on the twin Q and never had a lock issue.  Check you cable maybe try another to be sure?  BUt I can assure you that the Joe Meek will work as digital source for the 680. 

Does anyone heard already of some faulty digital inputs on the DR680 which have been repaired successfully by Tascam support ? My unit still has 11 months of warranty to go ...

Thanks again !
Best,

Marc.

[kirk97132]

Do you have anything else that outputs an AES or SPDIF signal?  there is a possibility of the Joe Meek being the issue.  So like any diagnostic....try to replace a suspect component with a good one in order to verify what is good and what is bad.  Before you condemn your 680 try a different input to the 680.  I know you said you tested it into your sound card but I have chased my tail before by not checking each piece of the chain. 

I dunno if this helps but in the past I can remember gear not seeing a digital signal IF the digital feed was turned on AFTER being hooked up.  This was NOT related to my 680 it was my R44 if I remember right.  SO....hook up joe meek to 680 power up Joe meek THEN power up 680.  sometimes the order can affect things.

[yltfan]

I then went back to the DR680, and then again, it was impossible to have the two of them working together.
Tried a bit of everything, but unsuccessfully (every frequencies again,  moving the cable slightly, tried different settings within the menus of the DR680, especially the REC mix channel INPUT, the I/O input for the channel 5/6 and the digital output (AES/SPDIF) ....)

Don't forget to switch the monitor from mix to din under the home menu...that's what screwed me up for a long time.

[moodymarco]

Express Answer !

Do you have anything else that outputs an AES or SPDIF signal?  there is a possibility of the Joe Meek being the issue.  So like any diagnostic....try to replace a suspect component with a good one in order to verify what is good and what is bad.  Before you condemn your 680 try a different input to the 680.  I know you said you tested it into your sound card but I have chased my tail before by not checking each piece of the chain. 

I dunno if this helps but in the past I can remember gear not seeing a digital signal IF the digital feed was turned on AFTER being hooked up.  This was NOT related to my 680 it was my R44 if I remember right.  SO....hook up joe meek to 680 power up Joe meek THEN power up 680.  sometimes the order can affect things.

Once again, thanks for the advice Kirkd,
Well, the JoeMeek is the only device having digital output that I own; I'm trying to borrow some other pre with digital outputs from some friends to carry on my tests, but it's not gonna be easy from where I live  ...
And yeah, I tried both ways, TwinQ on before I power up the 680, and the other way as well, powering it up while the DR680 is already on ... it didn't change anything ...

Don't forget to switch the monitor from mix to din under the home menu...that's what screwed me up for a long time.

Thanks yltfan ! Yeah, I did it, it was one of the first thin I did actually. But nope, it doesn't work.
I had a reply from Tascam today who is advising me to send it to the closest repair center ....
If I find other preamps to test or any solution to make it work, I'll post more later

Best,

MM.