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Author Topic: fuses  (Read 3615 times)

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DaryanLenz

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fuses
« on: December 01, 2003, 04:52:33 PM »
While we are on the subject...could someone post a good page that talks about fuses or comment on their use in our homebrew systems?  I have never used them (go figure) and would like to add them to decrease the possibility that I have another fire...armen, I said decrease ;)

D

Offline oneeyedmike

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Re:fuses
« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2003, 05:03:03 PM »
I believe this is the fuse I use. Someone posted this link here a while back, that's how I found it. Although it seems to me, that if it allows 3A to flow, it could still do some pretty serious damage to sensitive electronics.

http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&&lstdispproductid=223614

Offline sexymexi

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Re:fuses
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2003, 05:04:45 PM »
d, is it just you and me, it seems we both have had fires... haha.. i fixed my problem, but yea, a fuse might also be a good thing for me..  i'll look into it.

matt
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DaryanLenz

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Re:fuses
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2003, 05:43:38 PM »
Thanks.  where does one solder in those suckers?

Thanks again

D

DaryanLenz

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Re:fuses
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2003, 08:02:03 PM »
This is for locking my topic...


 :minigun: :minigun: :minigun:

hehe.  Thanks bud

D

Offline leegeddy

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Re:fuses
« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2003, 08:54:01 PM »
While we are on the subject...could someone post a good page that talks about fuses or comment on their use in our homebrew systems?  I have never used them (go figure) and would like to add them to decrease the possibility that I have another fire...armen, I said decrease ;)

D

'fuses are like insurance. you'll never know it's there until you really need it".

just a few helpful comments about fuses that i've learned from experience.

1. use the LOWEST value fuse as you can without blowing it.
2. fuses go in series on the positive terminal in a DC system closest to the power supply, as some already stated.
3. isolate the fuse so there aren't any other electronic devices that can affect it.

here's a crude sketch for ya:

  -----------> FUSE >------------------------------
  |                                                                 |
 +                                                                 |
_|__                                                     DAT/Pre/ADC
 __                                                               |
  |                                                                 |
  |----------------------------------------------------|

in determining what size fuse to use, i would consult your manual FIRST to look for "Current Draw", "Current Comsumption" or "Power Consumption".

if you have a "Power Consumption" value, divide that by your operating voltage to obtain "Current Comsumption".  remember Power (Watts) = Voltage (V) X Current (Amperes).

if you have multiple equipment, add the individual current draw to obtain your total Current draw.  mind you, basically all of the electronic equipment we use only draw a very small amount of current and is usually expressed in mA (milliamps).

DO NOT use AmpHour ratings to determine current draw.  AH is a number that has a time value factor into it.  i've seen some people determine their current draw by using their battery's "AH" rating and that's totally wrong.  you're looking for an instantaneous current draw from a battery and NOT over a certain period of time.

hope this helps and please see my example below:

marc

==========================

example:

Beyerdynamics MV-100 pre

Current Draw:  85mA per manual
Voltage (DC plug):  24V per manual

i'm using 2-12V 7.5AH batteries in series to power my MV-100.  
fuse size used:  100mA (.1A)

i'm 100% positive that a 1A fuse will work just fine, but that's almost 12X the current rating. it's almost like there is no protection at all by using a 1A fuse.
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