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Gear / Technical Help => Ask The Tapers => Topic started by: justink on May 16, 2016, 08:37:58 PM
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V3 question... i read the manual but i'm still not sure... when running XLR out (analog) > m10... are the V3 meters still accurate if running unity (level 4) on the m10?
the manual says the meter lights are to the A/D chip. just making sure they are accurate for analog out as well.
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ran an unscientific test with the stereo and found the V3 levels to be more closely accurate to the m10's while running the m10 a hair under level 3.
anyone have similar experience?
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Not sure about the v3, but when I ran VMS02IB>M10, I ran my M10 at about 3 as well! Id just leave the levels a hair under 3 on your M10, and fine tune with the V3's trim knobs :) When I used to run V3>XLR Analog Out>SD 722, I would run the v3 at +20db, and the 722 at whatever level, and then just used the V3's Trim knobs to fine tune!
Sounds like you have it figured out! Best of luck Justin!
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V3 question... i read the manual but i'm still not sure... when running XLR out (analog) > m10... are the V3 meters still accurate if running unity (level 4) on the m10?
the manual says the meter lights are to the A/D chip. just making sure they are accurate for analog out as well.
The V3 meters are for the AD section. The analog output is at approximately +22 (I may be a little off on that, it's been a while) over what is shown on the meters. When I ran a V3 into my R4 I built a pair of attenuator cables with around 22dB of attenuation and then the two sets of meters pretty much matched up.
Keep in mind if you unbalance the signal in the cable (which you will be doing if you go from XLR to mini) you lose ~6dB of signal so that will put the input signal at the M10 at around +15 over the V3 meters.
A few people said it didn't make any sense to add gain with the pre then throw it away with some cheap resistors down the signal path. I thought the V3 sounded better running a little hotter up front and I had the piece of mind of the R4 input signal being the same as the easy to read V3 meters.
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^ Good info. I appreciate it.
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From the V3 manual-
"When using the analog outputs and sending the signal to a recorder with a variable input, use
the following procedure: turn the gain control fully counter-clockwise, turn the trim control fully
counter-clockwise. Set the record level control on the recorder to 12 o’clock or midway between
minimum and maximum. With the sound source present, adjust the preamplifier gain control
clockwise until the signal peaks at –9dBFS (+16dBu) on the V3. Adjust the record level control
on the recorder for the optimum recording level."
(http://s32.postimg.org/3pztmkuvp/image.jpg)
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Knew my memory was foggy. It's +25 dB on the analog out according to that chart. Losing 6 dB from unbalancing is accurate.
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yeah, i read all of that last night. the problem is that there's no opener tonight. just the band coming on and likely banging the opener loud. i know roughly where i need the V3 gain (when i go digi into a bit bucket), but i didn't want to overload the m10. i think my test helped zero the m10 gain a lot.
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Knew my memory was foggy. It's +25 dB on the analog out according to that chart. Losing 6 dB from unbalancing is accurate.
so, in other words... if the V3 is hitting -19, the m10 will be at ZERO, correct? (assuming the m10 is at unity, which... no one really seems to know what level that is)
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Knew my memory was foggy. It's +25 dB on the analog out according to that chart. Losing 6 dB from unbalancing is accurate.
so, in other words... if the V3 is hitting -19, the m10 will be at ZERO, correct? (assuming the m10 is at unity, which... no one really seems to know what level that is)
Correct. You will only be seeing the two bottom lights on the V3 meters on the peaks. I think the M10 unity gain is 3 or 4. Not sure. I would start with the V3 all the way down but the trims in the middle so you can drop the gain another 5 dB or balance your channels if needed.