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Gear / Technical Help => Remote Power => Topic started by: John Kelly on July 19, 2004, 12:33:37 AM
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So I picked up that Walmart LiON battery and it is just awesome. I've done about 6 shows this week and so far haven't had to recharge the battery yet.
However, I've been thinking of picking up a V3 (I'm turning into a regular gear slut). Would it be possible to power the V3 with this battery? I love it because it's so small and seems to pack a ton of power. However, it's 9.6V and the V3s are either 6v or 12v. I really don't know much about powering stuff so I have no idea if it's possible or not, but I know there'll be at least 100 people here who do. ;)
So, possible? No?
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i think the v3 is 6 to 12 v isnt it, it will just make the battery indicator light not function correctly, and would ahve to be calibrated to the 9.6v????
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i wouldnt trust that, id use a 6v sla and be done w/ it, because youd prolly have to step the voltage down to 6v anyway
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My understanding is any V3 will run on 6v-12v, only question is to what voltage the low batt and shut-off are calibrated. If not calibrated for your particular voltage, the V3's low batt indicator and shut-down won't function correctly. Only potential problem I can think of is you may discharge your batt too much. I don't know of any reason you wouldn't be able to calibrate the V3 for a 9.6v power source if that's what you wanted to run. Graces has the calibration procedure posted on their website in the support area. Wanna make sure and not trust us hacks? Give Grace a call, quality customer service, IME.
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My understanding is any V3 will run on 6v-12v, only question is to what voltage the low batt and shut-off are calibrated. If not calibrated for your particular voltage, the V3's low batt indicator and shut-down won't function correctly. Only potential problem I can think of is you may discharge your batt too much. I don't know of any reason you wouldn't be able to calibrate the V3 for a 9.6v power source if that's what you wanted to run. Graces has the calibration procedure posted on their website in the support area. Wanna make sure and not trust us hacks? Give Grace a call, quality customer service, IME.
I'll do that after I buy one. ;) +t
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suite, let us know whats up john :)
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My understanding is any V3 will run on 6v-12v, only question is to what voltage the low batt and shut-off are calibrated. Wanna make sure and not trust us hacks? Give Grace a call, quality customer service, IME.
I just traded some emails with Jamie. There is some question that the adjustment range may not be wide enough to cover the 9.6V point from either above or below. It needs to be tested.
Be aware that the discharge curve for NiMH or LiON batteries is different from SLA batteries, so you need to rethink the trigger points for low voltage indication and shutoff. LiON has a fairly flat discharge curve so it will go from good to gone pretty quickly compared to SLA when it gets close to the end so don't expect 45min runtime between low and shutdown like with an SLA.
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My understanding is any V3 will run on 6v-12v, only question is to what voltage the low batt and shut-off are calibrated. Wanna make sure and not trust us hacks? Give Grace a call, quality customer service, IME.
I just traded some emails with Jamie. There is some question that the adjustment range may not be wide enough to cover the 9.6V point from either above or below. It needs to be tested.
Be aware that the discharge curve for NiMH or LiON batteries is different from SLA batteries, so you need to rethink the trigger points for low voltage indication and shutoff. LiON has a fairly flat discharge curve so it will go from good to gone pretty quickly compared to SLA when it gets close to the end so don't expect 45min runtime between low and shutdown like with an SLA.
this is really a non issue with the walmart pack for two reasons
LiOn cells are not damaged by deep discharge like lead acid cells so the auto shut off is not needed.
and
The battery meter on the walmart cell is much better than the V3 indicator anyway.
I would get a 6v calibrated unit and run it with the walmart 7.2v cell, it will last about 6 hours.
peace, chris
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My understanding is any V3 will run on 6v-12v, only question is to what voltage the low batt and shut-off are calibrated. Wanna make sure and not trust us hacks? Give Grace a call, quality customer service, IME.
I just traded some emails with Jamie. There is some question that the adjustment range may not be wide enough to cover the 9.6V point from either above or below. It needs to be tested.
Be aware that the discharge curve for NiMH or LiON batteries is different from SLA batteries, so you need to rethink the trigger points for low voltage indication and shutoff. LiON has a fairly flat discharge curve so it will go from good to gone pretty quickly compared to SLA when it gets close to the end so don't expect 45min runtime between low and shutdown like with an SLA.
this is really a non issue with the walmart pack for two reasons
LiOn cells are not damaged by deep discharge like lead acid cells so the auto shut off is not needed.
and
The battery meter on the walmart cell is much better than the V3 indicator anyway.
I would get a 6v calibrated unit and run it with the walmart 7.2v cell, it will last about 6 hours.
peace, chris
That's what I was thinking. I still have to get the v3 first. Once I do I'll give a call to Grace just to be sure...
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The battery meter on the walmart cell is much better than the V3 indicator anyway.
I would get a 6v calibrated unit and run it with the walmart 7.2v cell, it will last about 6 hours.
peace, chris
I didn't know the walmart packs had a level indicator.
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Be aware that the discharge curve for NiMH or LiON batteries is different from SLA batteries, so you need to rethink the trigger points for low voltage indication and shutoff. LiON has a fairly flat discharge curve so it will go from good to gone pretty quickly compared to SLA when it gets close to the end so don't expect 45min runtime between low and shutdown like with an SLA.
Yes be aware that the L Ion bat will drop off very suddenly I had an intersting experience with mine I ran it for 8 shows at all good and at the end of the 8th i turned the rig off and was switching tape and then tried to power up again and the bat had nothing left I checked the light meter on it and it was flat out dead, no lights at all. but it ran it's wittle heart out like a champ and got me a ton of music, love this thing!!
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I would get a 6v calibrated unit and run it with the walmart 7.2v cell, it will last about 6 hours.
peace, chris
Is there a 7.2v Walmart battery? I saw a bunch at my store. Grabbed one and took it home. On the back of the walmart battery box it says 5400mAh, 9v. I didn't see any 7.2v batteries at the store but then again I didn't search through all of them.
Anyone routinely using the walmart 9v battery with a 6v V3 model (not the 12v V3) ? Do I need to step down the voltage or do anything special?
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Is there a 12V walmart battery? My ULN-2 needs 9-24V, so I'm worried that 9.6 would be too close to the shutoff point to last long.
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LiOn cells are not damaged by deep discharge
I don't know where you read that, but I have read just the opposite. Deep discharge kills lithiums, or so it says in the product info in the Li battery i bought.
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http://www.fact-index.com/l/li/lithium_ion_battery.html
An interesting link -- says another drawback of li-ion batteries is that they lose capacity as they age, but that storing 'em in a cold environment (refrigerator) will slow the aging.
Re Deep discharge -- research also suggests that another key requirement of Li-Ion batteries is to have an electronic regulator running 'em to assure proper charging/discharging. I strongly suspect that the electronics in the battery will cut it off before it's discharged too deeply.
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I would get a 6v calibrated unit and run it with the walmart 7.2v cell, it will last about 6 hours.
peace, chris
Is there a 7.2v Walmart battery? I saw a bunch at my store. Grabbed one and took it home. On the back of the walmart battery box it says 5400mAh, 9v. I didn't see any 7.2v batteries at the store but then again I didn't search through all of them.
Anyone routinely using the walmart 9v battery with a 6v V3 model (not the 12v V3) ? Do I need to step down the voltage or do anything special?
I'm using it now. The V3 operates on any voltage between 6 and 12 volts, no need to change anything. The low battery light will not work correctly, though. Other than that there should be no issues.
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connections used: Radio Shack item numbers 274-1568C & 274-1532
objective: connect Walmart 9v battery to 6v V3
This is my first attempt at connecting the Walmart battery with my new V3. I'll try and test it out tonight. One of the walmart connectors will work with the V3 but I don't like the fit into the back of the V3 hense my need to visit Radio Shack. I also didn't want to cut into the V3 power cord that was supplied, or the cord that came with the walmart battery, or use that hideous 4pin xlr connector. Anyone know where I can get that connection with the screw in the back of the V3 connector? I couldn't find it in Radio Shack.
The next wire I will make should be shorter.
(http://www.seaofsouls.net/mbp/V3wire.jpg)
don't ask about the boot knife and the cutting board in the background. My thumb is still healing
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Yeah I have pictures of it working here:
http://www.taperssection.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=23925.0
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John,
thanks for the link. Did you make the wire running from the V3 to the Walmart battery? the wire with the "B" on it I like the right angle connector and would like to know where the heck to get them.
I ran my V3 tonight with no problems. Both the battery and V3 did not get warm but I only ran them for about two hours inside a bar. I did look around for a fire extinguisher before hand though ::) no kidding
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John,
thanks for the link. Did you make the wire running from the V3 to the Walmart battery? the wire with the "B" on it I like the right angle connector and would like to know where the heck to get them.
I ran my V3 tonight with no problems. Both the battery and V3 did not get warm but I only ran them for about two hours inside a bar. I did look around for a fire extinguisher before hand though ::) no kidding
The cable was actually for my MixPre, but the V3 shares the same power connector (although the V3's is a little shorter, so it wont lock with the Sound Devices cable). I went to RatShack and picked up some of their adaptaplug supplies. The end for the battery is a size "B" and the V3 is a size "M" - although the connection to the V3 is not very tight. It does work though. I'm going to try to rig up something better soon, but this will have to work in the meantime. ;)
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thanks for the sizes. I just eye balled what I thought I needed and I'm happy with the connections I got with the R.S. items #'s that I got posted above a couple of posts. Soddering was a beotch but with practice probably is that bad. My first attempt failed and I almost scrapped the whole thing but my second attempt only took a few minutes and was delightly surprised that it works.
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thanks for the sizes. I just eye balled what I thought I needed and I'm happy with the connections I got with the R.S. items #'s that I got posted above a couple of posts. Soddering was a beotch but with practice probably is that bad. My first attempt failed and I almost scrapped the whole thing but my second attempt only took a few minutes and was delightly surprised that it works.
I didn't have to solder anything. The adaptaplugs and cables fit right into each other.
Good thing, cuz I've never soldered anything in my life. ;D
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Had I know about the adaptaplugs earlier I probably would've saved a lot of time and gone that route. ;)
I hate to sodder. I burned myself twice on the soddering iron and sliced my thumb. I won't get into that, just something stupid on my part. Still I would do it again (without cutting or burning myself) just to have one wire and at a good length.
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fwiw, I have been thru 3 of these batteries so far...
I origanlly bought 3 and as one stops taking a charge I buy a new one and return the bunk one in it's place...
1 has never failed and the other 2 have been going strong for a few weeks now ::)
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ok, so I'm trying to put all this info. together. Is it possible to buy 12v 7.2 ah lion batteries at walmart, and get adaptors somewhere that will allow me to avoid soldering? Sorry to be an idiot, from what I can gather I can get the batteries at wallyworld and the adaptors at ratshack. I want to pick one up for the mme and one for the hhb. guessing that a 4 pin xlr adaptor for the portadat is gonna be a tough find? Thanks, Marc.
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>>I origanlly bought 3 and as one stops taking a charge I buy a new one and return the bunk one in it's place...<<
how long does it work before it stops taking a charge?
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fwiw, I have been thru 3 of these batteries so far...
I origanlly bought 3 and as one stops taking a charge I buy a new one and return the bunk one in it's place...
1 has never failed and the other 2 have been going strong for a few weeks now ::)
That's weird. I haven't run into that problem with mine, and I don't think Chris (the discoverer of the battery) has either. I wonder if anyone else around here has experienced similar problems...
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I believe my maha powerbank is the same in concept andI think it advertises approximately 50 uses. I got it at thomasdistributing.com if someone has time to look it up.
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ok, so I'm trying to put all this info. together. Is it possible to buy 12v 7.2 ah lion batteries at walmart, and get adaptors somewhere that will allow me to avoid soldering? Sorry to be an idiot, from what I can gather I can get the batteries at wallyworld and the adaptors at ratshack. I want to pick one up for the mme and one for the hhb. guessing that a 4 pin xlr adaptor for the portadat is gonna be a tough find? Thanks, Marc.
I've only seen the one 9volt Walmart battery. I've only used it once last Saturday for about two hours with my 6volt V3 without problems. There are adaptaplugs to avoid soddering but according to John Kelly the connections aren't very tight. see his post "I went to RatShack and picked up some of their adaptaplug supplies. The end for the battery is a size "B" and the V3 is a size "M" - although the connection to the V3 is not very tight. It does work though."
I think the extra time spent soddering pays off. I used some shielded audio cable, cut it and used Radio Shack item numbers 274-1568C & 274-1532. If the battery doesn't turn on the V3 then most likely the positive and negative wires are touching inside one or both of the connectors. Check your soddering. Those wire connections are small. You need a steady hand and just a little bit of soderring. The screw on black caps can be tough to fit over thick wire or a bad sodering job but once done correctly I doubt you'll have problem with your homemade wire. Just in case bring two or three ;)
btw: I did check with a voltmeter. Coming from the battery, the inside wire is positive and the outside wire or shielding is negative. The way it should be for the V3.
I won't rely on the V3 battery indicator. There is a button to press on the Walmart battery to check it's own battery charge.
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>>I think the extra time spent soddering pays off. I used some shielded audio cable, cut it and used Radio Shack item numbers 274-1568C & 274-1532.<<
why not just solder a 4 pin xlr onto the walmart battery cable? then you can use it with your existing (and locking) v3 connector to 4 pin power cable. just connect the 2 4 pin xlrs...
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>>I think the extra time spent soddering pays off. I used some shielded audio cable, cut it and used Radio Shack item numbers 274-1568C & 274-1532.<<
why not just solder a 4 pin xlr onto the walmart battery cable? then you can use it with your existing (and locking) v3 connector to 4 pin power cable. just connect the 2 4 pin xlrs...
I did look for a four pin female xlr in Radio Shack but I couldn't find one. That was an option I did consider but to reduce wires I still like having just the right length cord. One less thing to get tangled up. If I have any problems with this setup then I'll inform this thread.
follow up photo from last Saturday. Incredible how small the V3 is IMO. Wal-mart battery on top of the V3. Looks like they were made for each other. I probably will put velcro between them.
(http://www.seaofsouls.net/mbp/v3.jpg)
the optical cable I got from www.soundprofessionals.com optical cable to right angle TOS link. No adapters. Just wish the wire was shorter but that's just me and wires. I'm a minimalist and a bad speller.
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I emailed Grace asking about the Walmart battery question. Here was my reply....
______________________________________________
I just received my new 6volt V3 from Colorado. thanks.
I see some folks using a WalMart DVD rechargable 5400mAh/9v battery with their V3's. Is this safe to use with my 6volt V3?
thanks,
Tim
__________________________________________
Hi Tim-
Glad to hear you received your V3! As you probably know, the V3 has two
settings that can be calibrated based on DC operating voltage.
The first of which is the low battery indicator. This is set to engage
at 5.75V for 6V operation or 11.5V for 12V. These voltage thresholds
provide an indicator that will engage with approx. 45 minutes to 1 hour
of runtime remaining and are based on sealed lead-acid discharge
characteristics.
The second adjustable DC parameter is the auto-shutdown circuitry
threshold. Over-discharge of a sealed lead-acid battery will
permanently damage the cells. To prevent this, the V3 will turn off at
the given threshold and will not turn back on until the battery has been
disconnected and reconnected. For 6V operation this voltage is set to
5.0V and for 12V it is placed at 10.0V. Again these values are based on
the sealed lead-acid discharge curve.
Now to address your questions directly:
> Is there any problem running the V3 with a 9.0V source?
There is no problem running the V3 from 9.0VDC. The higher the voltage
you run the preamp on, the warmer it will run. Given the calibration
settings of your V3 (6V) you can run it as-is. If your unit was set for
12V you would not be able to run it off this battery - the DC input
voltage would never exceed the auto-shutdown voltage and the preamp
would not power up (or would power on momentarily and then shutoff).
With this setting however, you will not have low battery indication or
auto-shutdown facilities available.
Depending on the type of cells this 'dvd' battery utilizes, you may be
able to recalibrate the V3's low-batt and auto-shutdown voltages to
match its discharge characteristics. To do so you will need an accurate
voltmeter and variable DC power supply would make it easier. To
reiterate, you do not need to recalibrate the V3, you just won't be able
to use these functions.
It is critical if you wire your own battery to connect the positive to
be to the internal opening and the negative to the external outer shroud
of the DC barrel connector the plugs into the V3. Failure to observe
this proper polarity will cause damage to the V3.
--
Jamie Krapohl
Assistant Design Engineer
Grace Design & Lunatec LLC
____________________________________________________
Hi Tim-
Thanks for sending us the link. Looks like a nice power option, and
convenient form-factor. Nice work!
Tim Younkin wrote:
> thought you might like to see this image
>
> http://www.seaofsouls.net/mbp/V3wire.jpg
>
> thanks for your prior input
>
> Tim
>
--
Jamie Krapohl
Assistant Design Engineer
Grace Design & Lunatec LLC
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the V3 is a size "M" - although the connection to the V3 is not very tight. It does work though. I'm going to try to rig up something better soon, but this will have to work in the meantime. ;)
I went to RS again today. Picked up a size M and L (#274-1568c) connector to compare the two with the V3 connector. The size L looks to be the better fit. As you stated the size M does work but not very tight. To my eye the size M looks a little bit smaller than it should be. I'm returning the size M connectors tomorrow. I'm happy with my size L fitting into the V3 :D
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why don't you use the switchcraft part# S760K, that is designed for the connection?
voltage spikes from loose connectors aren't good.
Because I didn't know about switchcraft part#S760K (http://www.switchcraft.com/products/jack-146.html). Now I do. Thanks. Back to the drawing board. :P
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i just picked one up from wal mart.
i soldered a 4 pin onto the included cable and wired it like a 12v (so if i plug it into stuff wanting ONLY 6v it won't fry it)
gonna test it with a ULN2 and with the mytek box.
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i just picked one up from wal mart.
i soldered a 4 pin onto the included cable and wired it like a 12v (so if i plug it into stuff wanting ONLY 6v it won't fry it)
gonna test it with a ULN2 and with the mytek box.
Definitely post results with the ULN2. I know Matt is interested in new power options...
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not to hijack this sweet thread but eveytime you guys post an email from Grace Designs support it just reaffirms that they are one of the most professional and straight up bad-ass businesses around!
Brian
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plugged into the ULN2 and power kept switching on and off. i guess it's not enough juice? i'll try again after work just to make sure i'm not crazy
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Is that a 12v you are hooking up to? Grace said that 9volt battery would not work on their 12 volt unit. Probably true with other equipment needed 12volts. Not enough juice. read the email I posted above.
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the ULN2 needs 9 or higher, so it should have worked. i wonder what the actual voltage on this lithium is
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i wonder what the actual voltage on this lithium is
I checked with my voltmeter. Even at 3/4th charge it's still putting out 9.1 volts.
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then i wonder what the ULN2 really needs. the back of it says >= 9V
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hmmm. maybe it has something to do with amps? amperes (spelling?)
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are your wires thick enough? That sucker needs 1.4 A at 9v - very hungry.
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hmmm. maybe it has something to do with amps? amperes (spelling?)
B.J. (Metric Halo's technical know-it-all) said it had to do with the battery likely being current-limiting. The ULN-2 requires 0.8W, so I'm guessing this battery cannot put that out at 9V. I'd be curious if 2 in either series (ULN-2 can handle 9-24V) or parallel would reduce the strain on any one battery enough so that this would work.
John, I need to figure out if I can connect a 4-pin XLR or an adaptaplug to that ncharge or powerpad you have. That'd drop my bag weight by about 10 pounds if it works.
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So my wife has this portable Wal-Mart Initial DVD she uses with the kids in the car. It came with a charger and batter. I says "let me see" and wouldn't you know it, it's different then the one I bought for my V3.
Maybe someone has a use for this. Mine's not for grabs but maybe Wal-Mart sells these separately. I'm sure there's a way to track it down. Reads Li-ION 7.4 volts 3600mAh. I'm holding the battery. Not much longer than a pen. The rest of the gear is part of the charger.
The other Wal-Mart battery reads 9volt/5400mAh and has a battery charge indicator button on it. The 7.4volt battery does not.
The AC adapter that came with my V3 reads, output: 7.5VDC 1000mA. So I'm thinking maybe the 7.4v battery might be better for my V3 but it doesn't have a battery indicator on it and I don't know how long it will last under recording conditions.
just a heads up on this other Wal-Mart battery. ;) both the dvd unit and battery has the company name "Initial" written on it.
7.4 volt battery photos below.
(http://www.seaofsouls.net/mbp/bat1.jpg)
(http://www.seaofsouls.net/mbp/bat2.jpg)
(http://www.seaofsouls.net/mbp/bat3.jpg)
btw: what's +T mean? thanks or something
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John, I need to figure out if I can connect a 4-pin XLR or an adaptaplug to that ncharge or powerpad you have. That'd drop my bag weight by about 10 pounds if it works.
I'm sure you could hack off the cable that I already have on there.
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i was considering trying to hack a valence when i had my picturebook, and not that i have a different laptop w/ a valence, i should have definantly done it!
i think it would be so freakin easy to hack that fucker and put say a 4 pin on the end...
might wanna check fully charged voltage and fully drained voltage, just to make sur eit will work for you application. i can do that if no one else can...
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i was considering trying to hack a valence when i had my picturebook, and not that i have a different laptop w/ a valence, i should have definantly done it!
i think it would be so freakin easy to hack that fucker and put say a 4 pin on the end...
might wanna check fully charged voltage and fully drained voltage, just to make sur eit will work for you application. i can do that if no one else can...
I was thinking of doing it to, to run the V3 on. However the model I have is only 5000mAh, less than the walmart batt. So I figure I'll just keep what I have. ;)
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ahhh, i have the 10AH model ;)
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ahhh, i have the 10AH model ;)
Yeah if I had that one I'd probably go for it. As of now the V3 runs on the walmart batt for over 3 hours, which is enough to cover any show I'd tape. I need to test and see exactly how long I can run it for...
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btw: what's +T mean? thanks or something
http://www.taperssection.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=2298.0
;D
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defiunantly john. that would be a pretty sweet setup, i love my valence for my lappy...
how is that modV3 > jb3 working out for you?
i think im gonna move onto a wmod ua5 > jb3 and start saving for a modV3 myself. about to get a promotion at work that will limit my time to tape for a few months but allow me more income to save :D
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I *love* the v3 > jb3 combo. Definitely what I've been looking for. I just taped the Clumsy Lovers last night and it came out great. Gonna start a torrent soon.
I just wish some of my other gear would sell. Money is getting tight after that v3 purchase.
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i think it is gonna be pretty hard for both of us to move our 410's, especially me
when i sold my stock one i took a pretty good loss on it, i remeber that
im shooting you a pm, get back to me
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i think it is gonna be pretty hard for both of us to move our 410's, especially me
when i sold my stock one i took a pretty good loss on it, i remeber that
im shooting you a pm, get back to me
I hate to send it to ebay, but it may come down to it. I am seriously strapped for cash and I need some of this gear to sell.
I'm even considering selling the MixPre, but I really don't wanna. ;)
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btw: what's +T mean? thanks or something
http://www.taperssection.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=2298.0
;D
wow, it's like a whole new world. :D thanks
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so what do yinz want for your 410's ???
i may eventually buy one to run into my new lappy, but the damn audiophile firewire are so suite :)
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bean go to like the second or third page int eh yard sale, my buddy steve is selling a audiophile that is new with battery for pretty decent price
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so what do yinz want for your 410's ???
i may eventually buy one to run into my new lappy, but the damn audiophile firewire are so suite :)
http://www.taperssection.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=24442.0
Asking $300, but if you think you have another price that is fair PM it to me. ;)
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wish i could help guys, i was just wondering :)
that way i could run one of the 2 24 bit and the other 16bit for backup :)
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bumpage
just picked up my wally world l-ion pack...
wiring up the adapta plug wire to the stock connector witht he locking threads so im not nervous about the shotty connection with the size L adaptaplug
i accidently got the adaptaplug extension cable inseat of the cable to put a tip on each end... D'oh
ah well, i wanted to use the stock connector anyways, and il just hack off the male end of my adaptaplug and use the switchcraft connector now
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i've read this complete thread...and something tells me i'm going to need step by step instructions, part numbers, and plenty of pictures when i finally get around to doing this.
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its fairly simple
as long as you get a power cable to hack it will be simple
i bought and tried the radio shack adaptaplugs and i hated how all of them fit and stuck withthe stock plug that screws in tight, but isnt right angle
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i think i'm going to go with a 6v battery for the majority of my taping and then get this for the smaller shows i do that i know will be short. i'll probably be asking a lot of questions in a month or so.
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there is no real reason to carry lead if you dont have too. i despise carrying sla's
this thing packs a punch in a small package
i got a little over 6 hrs on my test the other day with the v3 with it
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well, 6 hrs isn't bad, i was thinking i'd only get 3-4. I'll have to get this first and then test it and see what i can get, but i think 6 hours will be plenty of time. great news.
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i checked it at 6 hrs, and then at 6:15 and it was dead
i thought 6hrs wasnt bad lyself 8)
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Where are these things in Walmart?
What do they cost?
Who is the manufacturer?
I want to run a Mini-Me with one.
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After reading and re-reading this thread for a few days now, I finally ran out and grabbed one. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but one of the adaptaplugs that came with battery fits perfectly in the V3 and it's a right angle. My battery came with coiled cord and 3 adaptaplugs. Didn't anyone try these? No locking ring, but it's a nice snug fit.
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i tried it and i wasnt happy AT ALL. it isnt a perfect fir, and a power plug rocking around in there could cause some damage if/when it shorts. but as always, ymmv
i only use the locking v3 power cable, i dont trust anything else
pm leegeddy if you want a right angle v3 power cable ;)
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I got 3 adaptaplugs with this thing. I don't have them in front of me as I'm at work, however the one I'm using is such a snug fit I almost thought it was too tight. I forget which number it is. And it's not the one with the little pin inside. I wrapped some tape around the connection to the coiled cord and I can't see it going anywhere. Maybe I got an adaptaplug that others are not getting. Ya never know.
I called Paul at Prodig and he said to send him the coiled cord to have the Switchcraft put on, but I may not even do that now. I like this right angle thingy as my V3 sits upright in my bag.
Thanks for the leggeddy tip anyway.
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one of the ones i got was snug also. there are little tabs on the pin in the v3,a nd that connector is bending the shit outta them every time it is inserted... thats if its the same one i have
it is like a pin, with 2 flexible things on the sides of it inside the v3,a nd i noticed that the adaptaplug bent them on mine, if you get what im saying
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Whoa! I better check that out. Time to get out the flashlight. Thanks.
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yeah, i was like " hey this is perfect, it is nice and tight. i put it in and took it out a few times, and it seems to get a little looser"
then i looked in with a light and saw those tiny tabs it was bending. i took a mini screwdriver (flat) and bent them back before i ahd doen too much damage
do yourself a favor and get a right angle v3 cable from leegeddy for 15$. you wont be dissapointed!
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When I wired mine up a didn't put a fuse in. I'm probably going to have to do that soon. Any ideas on a small inline fuse system that would work?
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mine just has a 1.25 amp inline fuse. you could just go to the shack and get a inline fuse holder and a fuse or 2
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^^^
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ok, who wants to build me one or two of these, I am a dumbass, seriously. And is the charger included?
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ok, who wants to build me one or two of these, I am a dumbass, seriously. And is the charger included?
build you a power cable from the l-ion pack > v3?
charger is included,a nd the output on the batt is a size "b" adaptaplug (i think) from rat-shack, just attach a power cable for your device ont he other end and your golden
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can anyone tell me if there's a charger that would work with this battery that is available at ratshack?
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probably, just get one with the same output and voltage
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ok, what is the output and voltage ;)
i need to charge my battery before tonight and do not have the charger at all...the seller forgot to send it with my stuff.
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For both my 7.2v one and my 9v one, the chargers are the same. Both are 12v, 1A. I think the batteries themselves have the smart changing circuitry, so if ratshack has a 12v 1A charger with the right tip size, that will probably work fine.
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the battery themselves have the smart charge curcuitry. that is the same as my chargers also, both mine are 9v
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why don't you use the switchcraft part# S760K, that is designed for the connection?
voltage spikes from loose connectors aren't good.
+t
Thanks moke, I've been looking for that part #.
I love the search funtion....
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just read this whole thread and still have questions. I used my 9v walmart with my v3 last night for the first time.
the battery was on a full charge.
first how fast do the lights on the battery go down? the "full" light was never on except when the v3 was turned off. I soon as I would turn the v3 on the light would dinm.
after about 2 and a half to 3 hours I was at the last light on the battery. it never died but I got a bit worried b/c I have read that they will go for up to 6 hours. I know it doesn't matter but the v3 low battery light never came on.
doesn't seem right to me for it to be on the last light at only close to 3 hours.
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i thought that the v3 only ran at 12v or 6v?
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runs at anything in between.
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the battery was on a full charge.
Are you *sure*? Doesn't sound like it to me given...
the "full" light was never on except when the v3 was turned off. I soon as I would turn the v3 on the light would dinm.
If it was full, I would expect it to register as such even with the V3 plugged in. Now...I don't have one of these, but I have a damn near similar batt quite possibly made by the same manufacturer that I use with my T+ UA5.
how fast do the lights on the battery go down?
Depends on the draw, of course. Even with power-sucking mics, the V3 oughta only draw around 1,000 mA. I can't answer how fast the lights should go down because I don't use the exact same batt with my V3, and I don't know how the lights are calibrated internally in the batt. But...it seems like you lost juice quickly given...
after about 2 and a half to 3 hours I was at the last light on the battery. it never died but I got a bit worried b/c I have read that they will go for up to 6 hours.
If it's a 5400 mAH battery, it should run for roughly 5 hours - and 2.5 - 3 before the last light seems mighty early.
I know it doesn't matter but the v3 low battery light never came on.
True, the V3 low batt light won't come on unless you recalibrate it. Instructions in the Archive or on the Grace website if you wish to do it.
doesn't seem right to me for it to be on the last light at only close to 3 hours.
Me, either. Only thing I can figure is either [1] it wasn't a full charge, [2] it's a faulty batt, [3] there's a problem with the batt > V3 cable /connector wiring causing it to draw far more than it should, or [4] it needs cycling to achieve it's full potential (supposedly LiIOn batts are immune from needing to do this, but IME I've found otherwise.
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I run lions for the v3 and I have not experienced any issues with them
I have even run the LIon with only 2 leds lit for a bit on the v3.
I run the 9v, 5400 variety...
As Brian suggested maybe the battery could be faulty?
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I charged it a few days before. do they loose charge while idle? looking at the info that came with it
4 lights (3 green 1 red) = full charge
3 = below 75%
2 = below 55%
red = below 30%
so I guess I was still safe (one green and the red) at about 3 hours.
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I charged it a few days before. do they loose charge while idle? looking at the info that came with it
4 lights (3 green 1 red) = full charge
3 = below 75%
2 = below 55%
red = below 30%
so I guess I was still safe (one green and the red) at about 3 hours.
yes the do lose charge sitting, I forget the exact percent they lose each day. Once it hits red though you should be looking to switch out the battery,
they can die pretty quick after that..
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thanks y'all! + T getting another one as well. 2 of these are still a shit ton lighter and smaller than one eco charge.
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i ran the km100>v3 on a single 9v for about 5hrs. and the battery was down to the last light.
marc
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for the most parts, MOST types of batteries lose 1% of their charge per day!
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lithium ion batteries should not lose as much charge sitting around as nickel metal hyride batteries.
Lithium ion batteries should also benefit from a few power cyclings (fully charge and then fully discharge) to get them accepting a complete charge. Best thing to do is to set up your complete recording rig and record the tv/your stereo 'till the battery's fully discharged, recharge and repeat (say 2 more times). Moniter how long the battery lasts the final time and you should have a good idea of its total capacity.
Also, when charging, you need to let it charge 'till the red charge light turns completely green (it starts red and then flashes red/green).
Finally, it's best to store these batteries in the fridge, fully charged, to prolong their life.
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lithium ion batteries should not lose as much charge sitting around as nickel metal hyride batteries.
Lithium ion batteries should also benefit from a few power cyclings (fully charge and then fully discharge) to get them accepting a complete charge. Best thing to do is to set up your complete recording rig and record the tv/your stereo 'till the battery's fully discharged, recharge and repeat (say 2 more times). Moniter how long the battery lasts the final time and you should have a good idea of its total capacity.
Also, when charging, you need to let it charge 'till the red charge light turns completely green (it starts red and then flashes red/green).
Finally, it's best to store these batteries in the fridge, fully charged, to prolong their life.
Ithought you were supposed to store them with a 3/4 charge?
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Wrong I am -- actually, per the attached http://www.batteryuniversity.com/parttwo-34.htm -- lithium ion batteries should be stored at 40% charge -- (how do we manage that?) -- sounds like running 'em down as normal during a show and then NOT recharging 'till the day(s) before the next show would be (closest to) optimal.
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Wrong I am -- actually, per the attached http://www.batteryuniversity.com/parttwo-34.htm -- lithium ion batteries should be stored at 40% charge -- (how do we manage that?) -- sounds like running 'em down as normal during a show and then NOT recharging 'till the day(s) before the next show would be (closest to) optimal.
bingo, its really hgard for someone as anal as me to do this :)
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no shit. I try to do it when I get hom so i don't forget.
Also, when charging, you need to let it charge 'till the red charge light turns completely green (it starts red and then flashes red/green).
after the light turns green there is a tiny red flash. this never went away. even after hours. I will try the cycle down thing.