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Gear / Technical Help => Remote Power => Topic started by: jbell on September 28, 2011, 03:50:11 PM
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I'm in no rush to buy since I'm using DVD batteries, but I can run RC batteries with my Littlebox. I wanted to know if anyone knows a good place to buy the batteries and charger? Also what brand should I stick with?
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batteryspace.com
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i used batteryspace but found the ones at radio shack to be cheaper and work just as well
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And buy NIMH NOT NICD Batteries ;) NIMH DO NOT have memory effect ;)
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I got my RC batteries in the yard sale. If you post an ISO, you may get some replies. Also, you can use dvd batteries on the little box, its just a matter of the correct cable which Ted can make with the DIN3 adapter to connect to the LB and then one to connect to the dvd battery.
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I already use DVD batties and Ted has made me a cable!! I also have an RC cable and thought they would be a nice back up since DVD batteries are getting expensive and harder to find.
I got my RC batteries in the yard sale. If you post an ISO, you may get some replies. Also, you can use dvd batteries on the little box, its just a matter of the correct cable which Ted can make with the DIN3 adapter to connect to the LB and then one to connect to the dvd battery.
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I already use DVD batties and Ted has made me a cable!! I also have an RC cable and thought they would be a nice back up since DVD batteries are getting expensive and harder to find.
I got my RC batteries in the yard sale. If you post an ISO, you may get some replies. Also, you can use dvd batteries on the little box, its just a matter of the correct cable which Ted can make with the DIN3 adapter to connect to the LB and then one to connect to the dvd battery.
I'm converting 100% to RC batteries. They're cheap, convenient and easy to replace if necessary.
As far as places to buy, I'd just use ebay and don't sweat it. Since they're cheap, it's not like you're investing like you would be for...say a Tekkeon. Radio Shack is convenient, but their RC batteries are expensive. A single 3000 mah battery at Radio Shack will run you $25 or so, where the same capacity will run you between $10 and $15 from ebay including shipping. If I were you, I'd buy a three pack so you've got plenty of spare power.
With the recent addition of 7 more (thanks Bean) I've got 17 total RC batteries now! :)
If you need them for the mating side, you can get Tamiya connectors from Radio Shack. Again not cheap at $5 for a pair of connectors, but convenient.
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I use one rc battery in an fr2LE, a Tenergy and it has held up well.
I have lots of backups now as I just bought an rc car. Brands Duratrax, Venom, Traxxas, Dynamite; Venom Nimh=not so hot, Lipo=good. Duratrax is very reliable for me.
The Nimh come in flavors: 7.2, 8.4, 9.6v but they are heavier than LI.
I'm interested in trying my Lithium Polymer (LIPO) batteries for recording; lighter with lots of capacity.
They come in 7.4, 11.1, 14.8v but are rather expensive. My 11.1v 5200mah was $100. They're more for high amperage draw. (12 awg wire on most)
I guess I'm not hearing about them for recording because of their price and safety concerns. (Don't want to see a bag of gear go off like a meteor :o)
But they sure pack a wallop of capacity (and I already have them)
Would they need any voltage regulation? Anyone ever try them?
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Steve, this is what I'm thinking of doing!! I have 2 solid DVD batteries I got when you could still find them for $20. I think once my DVD batteries start to fail I'm going to switch to RC batteries for the same reasons as you. They are really cheap and easy to find. What I like about the DVD batteries is having a meter to check how low the battery is getting. I'll keep my eye on ebay. Anyone have a suggestion for a good inexpensive charger for RC batteries??
I already use DVD batties and Ted has made me a cable!! I also have an RC cable and thought they would be a nice back up since DVD batteries are getting expensive and harder to find.
I got my RC batteries in the yard sale. If you post an ISO, you may get some replies. Also, you can use dvd batteries on the little box, its just a matter of the correct cable which Ted can make with the DIN3 adapter to connect to the LB and then one to connect to the dvd battery.
I'm converting 100% to RC batteries. They're cheap, convenient and easy to replace if necessary.
As far as places to buy, I'd just use ebay and don't sweat it. Since they're cheap, it's not like you're investing like you would be for...say a Tekkeon. Radio Shack is convenient, but their RC batteries are expensive. A single 3000 mah battery at Radio Shack will run you $25 or so, where the same capacity will run you between $10 and $15 from ebay including shipping. If I were you, I'd buy a three pack so you've got plenty of spare power.
With the recent addition of 7 more (thanks Bean) I've got 17 total RC batteries now! :)
If you need them for the mating side, you can get Tamiya connectors from Radio Shack. Again not cheap at $5 for a pair of connectors, but convenient.
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Ebay...get a Smart Charger with Battery combo deal...not sure what voltage you need but something like this...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NiMH-7-2v-4200-mAh-RC-Battery-Packs-w-Smart-charger-/140612025171?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bd213b53#ht_2070wt_905
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What I like about the DVD batteries is having a meter to check how low the battery is getting.
That's a big one for me, plus the charger is built-in so they can be charged by simply plugging into any 12Vdc source like a cigarette lighter. Plus their form factor is convenient.
When DVD batteries eventually die, can they be hacked and the cells replaced? Anyone do so sucesfully?
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What I like about the DVD batteries is having a meter to check how low the battery is getting.
That's a big one for me, plus the charger is built-in so they can be charged by simply plugging into any 12Vdc source like a cigarette lighter. Plus their form factor is convenient.
When DVD batteries eventually die, can they be hacked and the cells replaced? Anyone do so sucesfully?
I've opened one to replace a bad charge light button. Should be easy enough. They were panasonic cells IIRC total of six
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If you buy RC Lithium batteries, make certain they have a protection circuit/module/PCB/PCM installed that covers short-circuit, over charge, over discharge, and includes a current limiting resettable fuse. Some, especially airplane and helicopter batteries, do not. "ROAR approved" batteries for RC car racing must have these things.
If I were you, I would only use LiFePO4 chemistry, AKA "LFP" or "Lithium Iron Phosphate," batteries. Compared to regular lithium batteries they are an order of magnitude less likely to experience "thermal runaway" and cause a fire that could burn down my home or get tapers permanently banned from my favorite venue.
An important thing to remember is that LiFePO4 batteries also have about 4X longer cycle and calendar life than regular lithium batteries or NiMH batteries. When you calculate the cost over the lifetime of the battery, this makes them the cheapest batteries you can buy, cheaper than lead-acid or NiMH! The calendar life also means they have higher energy density than regular lithium batteries after just one year past manufacture.
Be smart, use the cheapest, highest density, longest lasting, and SAFEST batteries available right now which are LiFePO4
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A reminder to prolong the life of standard 'DVD' lithium batts (not sure if this applies to LFP type or not, but it probably won't hurt)-
Store them when not in use in a ziplock bag at 50% charge in the fridge. Before use, leave the bag closed until the battery reaches room temp to avoid condensation. Once it warms up, recharge to full capacity.
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I would also like to point out another warning with RC batteries. Not only do many RC batteries packs not have protection circuits, many RC chargers have settings to change the output voltage for charging packs with more or less cells in series. When you put these two things together you have recipe for a nasty accident.
Here's how it goes down. You come home late at night and tired after a show. You plug in your batteries and go to sleep. You didn't notice that your charger was set to 14.4V when you plugged in your 7.2V pack. Now you have a lithium fire.
Sanctioned RC car races require a "lipo sack" to be used on every lithium battery while charging. These will contain a fire unless it is placed on a flammable surface while charging.
I use premade and home-made packs I get from BatterySpace. However, I always use LiFePO4 packs with a protection module, I have chargers than only do one voltage, and I use different connectors on packs with different numbers of cells in series. This eliminates operator error and reduces the chances of a fire. If a LFP battery is shorted or punctured it could get very hot but it won't burst into an out-of-control fire. Always charge on a non-flammable surface.
If you still want RC batteries and RC chargers, get packs and chargers that support "balanced" charging. The pack will have a separate connector (or a third contact for 2-cell-series packs) with wires that lead to each cell, so the charger charges each cell in the pack individually and there is no voltage to set. Only used the balanced connector to charge.
DVD batteries and Tekkeons and the like have protection circuits but there is still a chance of a fire if the cells inside are punctured or damaged because the pack was dropped or crushed. That's why they have rigid plastic shells (as do ROAR approved RC car batteries.)
Again, I switched all of my batteries to LFP because they are the safest, densest, and cheapest batteries available.
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I would also like to point out another warning with RC batteries. Not only do many RC batteries packs not have protection circuits, many RC chargers have settings to change the output voltage for charging packs with more or less cells in series. When you put these two things together you have recipe for a nasty accident.
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Thanks for this; helps my understanding of battery types.
I have Lipo's that I use on my rc car; still paranoid about charging, even with a sack.
So no Lipo's on the audio gear for me.
I have many others Lithium Ion and Nimh that work for now.
Thanks again for the explanation.
Dave