I just got my MP 10 II and despite the Hirose input only taking a minimum of 10V, I am intent on getting my copious 9V DVD batteries to work with it, rather than turning to a new form of power. The 8 X AA sled and the L-mount sled indicate that that input will take lower voltages. Upon inspecting the AA sled, it appears that it is not 8X AA in series but two parallel groups of 4X AA in series. So it’s producing 6V on the high end and as low as 4V on the low end (4X NiMH rechargeables will be around 4V right before dying).
So what does this mean? It means the sled input can take anywhere from around 4V to 9V (an L-mount). So then, one of the solutions would be to buy the L-mount sled, and a dummy L-mount with 9V DVD battery plug (4.0mm X 1.7mm or a locking 5.5mmX2.1mm and one of my battery mods).
Another solution that costs a bit less would use the AA sled we already have. Two sets of 4X AA dummy batteries with a wired DC input on each set should do the job. I found these sets that have a USB A on one end that takes in 5V 2A and puts out 6V up to 1A.
What I’m going to do is chop off the USB ends and attach T3 connectors so I can swap out any plug I want (USB A, 4.0X1.7mm, locking 5.5X2.1mm). That way I can run it off the 9V DVD batts or any USB A battery that has at least two outputs that will output 2A each.
I’ve not tested max current draw with all phantom on, with either the USB or 9V batts, but the unit does power on just fine so far from a USB source when plugged into the wall (spec on power brick is 2.4A per output), but fails during power up when both USB are plugged into a dual output battery that is supposed to have the same spec as the wall brick (EasyACC PB20000MS). Power up is successful when plugged into the EasyACC and a 2nd USB battery, and also when just plugged into the 2nd battery with both plugs. The 2nd battery is a shell that takes 8 X 18650 cells, model: QD188-PD.
Further testing will demonstrate the limits of these batteries, if any, while running at max spec on the MP 10 II. It dawns on me that replacing the boost converter USB that takes 5V 2A and outputs 6V 1A and replacing it with a regular USB A plug might help. Unless there's some kind of handshake issue, 5V at 4A is better than 6V at 2A. Although there may very well be a handshake chip that is needed to allow power over 1A. So, there may be a limit using USB, but I’m confident that two 9V DVD batts in parallel (if not just one) will run this thing just fine. I will update this thread with my progress.