not sure if this belongs in battery boxes/preamps section or here, its power related and contains some other useful info on other batteries so ill leave it here for now, moderators can move it over there if appropriate
I was doing some runtime test on my MMA6000 and was dismayed to see it hit red light with alkaline 9Vs after just a few hours. Documentation from DPA is slim, per usual, other than the fact that they say either alkaline or NiMHs are acceptable. I saw a little bit of discussion here on powering the MMA6000 (like
here and
here) but they were ancient and not really full of good info so i decided to go from scratch
The problem with alkaline batteries in this device is the red light comes on at about 7.6V. With the steep slope of a 9V alkaline discharge curve this means that it is hitting red light with over half of what we consider capacity on the table
at typical gain levels the mma6000 pulls an estimated 20-30 mA, and we see that Li-ion batteries are about the same in regard to leaving half the battery capacity on the table at red light. This is actually of little consequence because the Li-ion capacity is so high that half of its capacity is still close to 20 hours. This and the fact that keeping your Li-ion discharge to 40% capacity or above is a general rule of thumb, the Li-ions should live a nice happy life and power the pre in the right range
that leaves us with the NiMH batteries, which come in two flavors, the typical 8.4V 7-cell, and the less-common 9.6V 8-cell. These nameplate voltages are somewhat misleading as the voltage can be substantially higher than that at low current draw, particularly when fresh off a charger.
As has been posted here before, high voltages (from even alkalines) can put 406x caps at risk with the wrong circuit
DPA used to publish a schematic of a powering circuit for the 4060-series that showed 9 Volts DC through 10 kOhms, like the link below.
https://jwsoundgroup.net/uploads/monthly_05_2014/post-2730-0-02421800-1399370626.jpg
If you tried that on your own, you'd face a 50/50 chance of destroying your expensive 4060-series capsules. That's because a fresh 9 Volt battery can put out as much as 9.6 Volts. That small difference was enough to often destroy the 4060's FET.
We changed it to use a 13k resistor. That solved the damage problem and retained the extra headroom feature.
That said, if 9.6V can put a 406x at risk, anything over 10V should probably be treated with caution.
as we can see, at low currents, the 9.6V NiMH batteries start out higher than 11V and remain above 10V for basically their entire cycle
the 8.4V NiMH seem to be a safer bet and a better match for the MMA-6000 (or any battery box powering 406x, really). Its discharge curve is exceeding flat and right in the proper range for most equipment
these can read above 10V right off the charger (ive seen as high as 10.4V), but (thanks?) to the high-self-discharge of NiMH they tend to be around upper 9s after sitting around for a day. I was also successfully able to burn off the surface charge by running the MMA6000 at max gain with no mics attached for 30 minutes. This got it under 10V but in the future ill probably run it down to under 9.5V
so this test
start voltage: 10.1V, didnt bleed off any charge
MMA6000 at max gain, +37.5V
capsules were 4015 on MMP-G cables, which should draw similar power to a 406x
impressive! 22 hours to red light at max gain. this is why i would be comfortable running it down to 9V in advance to have close to 20 hours of operation on a very flat curve
i was curious how long it would run after red light, so i did a separate test after letting the unit run overnight.
it was about 45 minutes before it started to nosedive. If you like your NiMHs you shouldnt really take them below 0.9-1V per cell (6.3-7V in this case). With this info in mind it really appears as if the battery light is in fact calibrated to work perfectly with an 8.4V NiMH. While an alkaline will run the MMA-6000 for several hours past red light, witht he scant information we get from DPA its difficult to know what the design spec is for the main voltage rail in that preamp. many preamps and ADs will start to lose headroom when this voltage is crossed, so although it may sound ok at 6-7V on an alkaline its difficult to say whether this is a good range of operation, particularly for very loud sources or high-gain applications.
That said, based on Len's advice above, if you are unsure of the circuitry of your battery box, or if it was built according to DPAs original recommendations, it might be best to even burn a little charge off an alkaline to get it safely under 9.5V before using it to power a battery box, or even 9V but that leaves you less room before you hit the 7.6V red light.
I know some of you (Gutbucket!) have used the 9.6V cells to power miniature DPAs to success, but am unsure if that was with straight battery boxes, or preamps, and what those particular circuits involved. perhaps i might email chris and have him weigh in, since hes also designed and built a lot of pres for these mics.
Lacking further details on this preamp, its hard to say what the acceptable voltage range is. Without someone like like Bruce Myers to answer tech details, Longmont is pretty much void of tech people (or at least those willing to talk), and getting straight answers out of denmark is nearly impossible on current products, let alone discontinued ones. We do know that the external power input is regulated to some extent as it requires 12-30V, and the unit kicks into a different indication mode when external power is present. im personally not tearing mine down to find out how internal power works
Its also hard to say how common 9.6V NIMHs were back then. They did exist, but the manual vaguely specifies "9V NiM or NiCd", which, like alkalines, never exceed 9.5-10V in normal operation
Personally im playing it safe an staying away from 10-11V. I'm only providing the information in context of what it is. Hopefully someone with an MMA-6000 finds the runtime tests useful