Topic: Threadlocker

[checht]

I tend to experiment with complicated mic setups, things like different versions of OMT4. They usually are built up of a large number of parts, which can be vexing on site.

Once I've developed a setup at home, I think through breading it down into subassemblies that are easy to transport without damage and efficient to reassemble on site.

Enter threadlocker. Starting a few years ago, I use blue to glue atomic componets together so they hold each other when combining and disassembling subassemblies of the setup.

Using Threadlocker avoids parts coming apart at the wrong place and needing a pliers to take apart. Its temporary nature allows for lots of revision of designs, and builds confidence that crucial subassemblies stay solid when in use.

I use blue, a medium bond, and find it's just right.

Anyone else use the stuff, or is this just me going too far down the rabbit hole (again)?

[tim in jersey]

FWIW, everything I own that requires a 3/8" female>5/8" male adapter bushing is secured in place at the 3/8" end using Loctite blue...

So, no, not going too far down a rabbit hole, IMO. One less potential hassle to deal with while out in the field.

[aaronji]

I have been using the purple (weakest) Loctite for a while. I actually bought it for the same reason Tim cites; my mic clips have little adapter barrels, which frequently worked themselves loose. The Loctite solved that problem and the purple holds quite well. I can break it with tools, but it requires quite a lot of force. Once you have it, you start coming up with multiple other uses (taping and otherwise) and I think it is definitely something to have around the house. 

[Gutbucket]

Warning- Just don't use Loctite "red"!  That stuff is way too strong and requires heating to release it without breaking the part.  We use it at work to secure stainless steel bolts that act as pivot points under constant back and forth rotation loads which are otherwise susceptible to becoming loose over time, and it takes the application of a propane torch to release it prior to disassembly. Otherwise the bolt usually shears off when attempting to remove it.

The weaker thread locking compounds others mention above are appropriate for our use.  If unavailable a dot of fingernail polish works similarly. 

[anodyne33]

Warning- Just don't use Loctite "red"! 

Was about to chime in with that nugget also. Unless you want a reason to break out the MAPP torch.

[checht]

...If unavailable a dot of fingernail polish works similarly.

My first job out of high school was at Holzmueller, a theater equipment rental company in SF. On my first day, I was shown how to calibrate the pots on lighting dimmer controllers. Once calibrated, they were secured with a dot of nail polish. I was a little generous, and the dimmers couldn't be reset in the field. Yikes.

Ended up spending a lot of time w polish remover that first week.

[Gutbucket]

Oh man, at least removing it that way was an option!  Didn't melt any plastic bits I hope.  We've a lot of "nail polish remover" out in our shop in the form of a 55gal drum of acetone.

[aaronji]

With respect to Loctite strength, note that all of the colors come in red bottles. The liquid is the correct color, so you can see before it is too late, but make sure when purchasing that it is the correct number. Purple Loctite comes in a red bottle numbered "222", for example.

Also, use it sparingly. "A little dab'll do ya", and all.

[Gutbucket]

Good note.  The high-strength Locktite "red" which to be avoided for any parts that need to be relatively easily disassembled at a later date is #242

[GLouie]

Another obscure Loctite fact: it won't set up if there isn't an active metal present (steel, etc.), and you should use a Loctite primer to cure it. Inactive metals include stainless steel, aluminum, anodized aluminum, cadmium, zinc, etc. I think they also make a version that cures better with inactive metals. Loctite chart attached;

[Gutbucket]

Didn't know that.  However we use 242 "red" without any primer on 316L stainless bolts threaded into tapped aluminum (both anodized and non-anodized) daily and it definitely cures hard.  We do make sure to wipe off any grease with acetone beforehand though.

[capnhook]

When threads aren't present or needed, I have used Loctite 680 to lock up slip-fit parts





https://next.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/central-pdp.html/loctite-680/BP000000153464.html

[aaronji]

Another obscure Loctite fact: it won't set up if there isn't an active metal present (steel, etc.), and you should use a Loctite primer to cure it. Inactive metals include stainless steel, aluminum, anodized aluminum, cadmium, zinc, etc. I think they also make a version that cures better with inactive metals. Loctite chart attached;

I think it depends on the specific type. For the purple, "It works on most metals without primer, including passive substrates such as stainless steel, aluminum and plated surfaces." This also includes brass, which is useful if you have lots of Manfrotto stuff! 

[fanofjam]

Awhile back I changed the fan on my laptop but before doing so I bought a bunch of screws off the internet to replace those that had gone missing over the years.  Well, most of the replacements have already backed out on their own and gone missing too.  Kinda weird about this thread because this past weekend I was just doing some research into this stuff to keep those screws in my laptop intact. 

[aaronji]

^ The purple is exactly what you need, ST. It is best for small screws according to Loctite. Plus, you probably want them to be removable without too much torque so that you don't shear them.