Another obscure Loctite fact: it won't set up if there isn't an active metal present (steel, etc.), and you should use a Loctite primer to cure it. Inactive metals include stainless steel, aluminum, anodized aluminum, cadmium, zinc, etc. I think they also make a version that cures better with inactive metals. Loctite chart attached;
I think it depends on the specific type. For the purple, "It works on most metals without primer, including passive substrates such as stainless steel, aluminum and plated surfaces." This also includes brass, which is useful if you have lots of Manfrotto stuff!
It can be vague, they do have primerless and traditional products in several strengths. Their primerless products work on "most metals," but if you have a traditional product, or a competitor, be careful. If you try it and it doesn't set up, you'll know why. Apparently, you just need a small amount of active metal exposed to activate the cure, so they specify pure aluminum as needing primer. Alloys probably have enough of an active metal. Anodized to anodized won't work, or plastic, they have special product for that.
Many don't realize Loctite doesn't air dry to cure, it wants no air and metal ions to cure (unless primer is added or product is called primerless). Usually you don't worry because steel screws are used most of the time. I don't know how competitors (Permatex et al) do things.
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