Become a Site Supporter and Never see Ads again!

Author Topic: M1 to D8 problem  (Read 3032 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Scooter

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Taperssection All-Star
  • ****
  • Posts: 1770
  • Gender: Male
M1 to D8 problem
« on: June 22, 2005, 01:17:15 PM »
I was trying to patch from KCmoeJoe's M1 to My D8 at Wakarusa, and it just wasn't locking.  I forget, do you need an active 7 pin to go from a M1 to a D8, or is it the other way round?? 
MBHO 603a(ka200n/ka500hn) >
R-44, or H120

LMA Recordings

Offline Tim

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Needs to get out more...
  • *****
  • Posts: 32913
  • Gender: Male
Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2005, 01:21:38 PM »
I think they both might need active cables

even with the "correct" cabling there is no guarantee you'll be able to pass signal from an m1 to a d8......
I’ve had a few weird experiences and a few close brushes with total weirdness of one sort or another, but nothing that’s really freaked me out or made me feel too awful about it. - Jerry Garcia

Offline Scooter

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Taperssection All-Star
  • ****
  • Posts: 1770
  • Gender: Male
Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2005, 01:23:09 PM »
Ahh.  Well that might have been the prob then.  I had a passive, and he had an active cable...
MBHO 603a(ka200n/ka500hn) >
R-44, or H120

LMA Recordings

Offline Scooter

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Taperssection All-Star
  • ****
  • Posts: 1770
  • Gender: Male
Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2005, 01:33:23 PM »
"The Oade Brothers and one or two other shops have started with the Sony RK-DA10 (black casing) and RK-DA10P (gray casing) active input cables and added a passive output. Since the outputs are passive, the voltage the cable will provide depends on the model of recorder you're using. If you use a -D3 it'll be 5.2 Volts. If it's a -D7 or -D8 it'll be 4 Volts, and if its a -D100 or -M1 it'll be 3.5 Volts.

Again: There are no cables that are active (voltage translating) for output."




So...  I according to this, I needed an active input 7pin for this to work(which his supposedly was), since the M1 was sending a  lower than expected voltage.  But then it goes on to say this...




"Remember that if you have a TCD-D100 or PCM-M1, and you need an active input cable, you must buy a cable based on the RK-DA10P with the gray housing; the older RK-DA10 with the black casing may or may not work."



So I guess it could have been the older active 7pin input cable???  Huh.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2005, 01:35:26 PM by Scooter »
MBHO 603a(ka200n/ka500hn) >
R-44, or H120

LMA Recordings

Offline JasonR

  • Trade Count: (5)
  • Taperssection Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 803
  • Gender: Male
  • Schoepsoholic
Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2005, 02:02:31 PM »
Ahh.  Well that might have been the prob then.  I had a passive, and he had an active cable...

Yup - if you guys swapped cables, you'd have been all set.  The outputs are all passive, but an active input cable is needed in some cases to bring the level 'up' to the standard of the receiving deck.  For the D8, it needs a higher level than an M1 puts out, and that's a situation where you need an active cable on the D8.

The other solution would be to change positions in the chain (D8 > M1) but that's no so simple when you're trying to bump the guy who's running the rig.  ;)

- Jason
Schoeps MK21,MK4,MK41,MK41V,MK8 > CMC5/Naiant Tinybox/PFAs > Sound Devices 744T, Sony PCM-M10
DPA 4060 (CS HEB) > SD 744T, M10

Offline cgrooves

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Taperssection Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 804
  • Gender: Male
  • Get On the Bus -Busman Audio
Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #5 on: June 22, 2005, 03:47:05 PM »
"The other solution would be to change positions in the chain (D8 > M1) but that's no so simple when you're trying to bump the guy who's running the rig."

I've always been told that the D8's should come first in the patch chain, and now I understand why.  Good point about bumping the guy running the rig.  I wouldn't be willing to be bumped because I use the internal A/D in my M1, and the D8's A/D isn't as good.
AUDIO:
Open:  Busman Audio BSC1-(K1/K2/K3/K4) > Fostex FR-2LE (Busman T Mod) 
                       
Unopen:  AudioReality Omni Mics (Panasonic capsules)> AudioReality Battery Box (depending on SPL's) > iRiver H140 w/ Rockbox

VISUAL:
Canon 7D, Canon 50mm/1.8, Canon 85mm/1.8, Tamron 17-50mm/2.8, Tamron 70-200mm/2.8

Offline Scooter

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Taperssection All-Star
  • ****
  • Posts: 1770
  • Gender: Male
Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2005, 03:48:27 PM »
thats what we did.  My passive cable was on his M1 output, his active cable was on my input, still didn't work.  There lies the rub ;D.  And ya, I didn't wanna ask him to switch the order of the decks, although he prolly would've totally cool w/ that, just didn't wanna be a PITA...
« Last Edit: June 22, 2005, 03:51:00 PM by Scooter »
MBHO 603a(ka200n/ka500hn) >
R-44, or H120

LMA Recordings

Offline Tim

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Needs to get out more...
  • *****
  • Posts: 32913
  • Gender: Male
Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2005, 04:04:34 PM »
even if you swapped cables I hesitate at the suggestion that you would have been "all set"

IME you just never know when dealing with M1 to D8... you're better off splitting the signal or switching the order of the decks....
I’ve had a few weird experiences and a few close brushes with total weirdness of one sort or another, but nothing that’s really freaked me out or made me feel too awful about it. - Jerry Garcia

Offline brianp

  • Trade Count: (7)
  • Taperssection Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 915
  • Gender: Male
    • Shows I've taped on LMA
Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #8 on: June 22, 2005, 04:28:57 PM »
I've always been told that the D8's should come first in the patch chain, and now I understand why.  Good point about bumping the guy running the rig.  I wouldn't be willing to be bumped because I use the internal A/D in my M1, and the D8's A/D isn't as good.


I think in this situation you can pass the signal from the M1 to the D8 by setting the Oade active cable coming out of the M1 to analog and use the Oade active cable on the D8. I could be wrong though. Ive never had any luck with the M1> D8 thing. This used to be a big issue in the Phish tapers section. The D8's always went in front of the M1's and there were always a slew of D8's and just a handful of M1's. nowadays I rarely see anyone patching, much less running a dat deck.
SBD>MR>C>D>CD>EAC>SHN

Offline Professor chaos

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Taperssection Regular
  • **
  • Posts: 225
  • Gender: Male
  • "Bringer of distuction and disorder."
Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2005, 04:56:52 PM »
i used to hate patching w/ the m1 for that reason. you'd have to get in the back of the patch chain even if you were the first there and someone in front of you would have a problem that would affect your tape.
Microtech Gefell SMS 2000 M20/m21->Oade M148/248->Korg MR-1000/Sony PCM M-10

Offline kindms

  • Trade Count: (6)
  • Needs to get out more...
  • *****
  • Posts: 5956
    • The Breakfast
Re: M1 to D8 problem
« Reply #10 on: July 25, 2005, 11:04:02 AM »
The Oade's put out a document with their active 7 pins that I got when I bought one that strongly suggests you to always put the M-1 at the end of the chain OR split the digi chain and run all D-8's and D-7's on one line and all M-1's &  M-100's on the other line.




AKG c426, AKG414 XLS/ST, AKG ck61, ck22, >nBob colettes >PFA > V3, SD MixPre >  TCM-Mod Tascam HDP2, Sony M10
Little Bear tube Pre >Outlaw Audio 2200 Monoblocks > VR-2's

 

RSS | Mobile
Page created in 0.067 seconds with 36 queries.
© 2002-2024 Taperssection.com
Powered by SMF