Topic: TASCAM DR-680 portable 8-track #3

[phil_er_up]

What's the "Extended power pack"? Got a link?

B&H
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/622827-REG/Tekkeon_MP3450_10_myPower_ALL_Plus_MP3450_10.html

here's what it looks like with both units together

Thinking of purchasing a 680. 

Was wondering is there a cord provided with the extended battery pack that connects to the 680?
Or do I have to buy that separately and where would someone suggest to get one?

If I went the 9v DVD way to power the 680, is there a local denver/boulder place I can buy one?


Thanks.

[kirk97132]

Regarding the 9 volt DVD batteries that are talked about here on TS.  AKA wallmart battery.  The reason that there is still so many references to them is the fact that a lot of people already own them.  In the past they were a great way to power many of the devices that we use.  notice I did say in the past.  The price has climbed to about 250% of what you used to be able to buy the battery for.  AND with the rise in price the sources for those batteries have dropped to a vendor or two.  Nowadays, it is probably better to look for other battery options.  The DVD battery can be had but they are $50 now and at that price point you can get different batteries larger capacity for just a little more money.  When these batteries were $10 & $20 they just couldn't be beat.  Now....well tekkon is one that a lot of people go to.  There are others out there but the generic DVD battery is going the way of the Dodo.  If you "have" to have a DVD battery they are on Ebay.  you need to watch, the cheaper ones are usually half the capacity of the more expensive ones.  Most people want at least the 5400 mAh versions.  The 2600 mAh does not really provide long enough run times for a long two set show. 

As for cables, it will depend on what gets shipped with a battery or use one of the cable makers here on TS to build you a nice one.   Hope that helps. 

[phil_er_up]

Regarding the 9 volt DVD batteries that are talked about here on TS.  AKA wallmart battery.  The reason that there is still so many references to them is the fact that a lot of people already own them.  In the past they were a great way to power many of the devices that we use.  notice I did say in the past.  The price has climbed to about 250% of what you used to be able to buy the battery for.  AND with the rise in price the sources for those batteries have dropped to a vendor or two.  Nowadays, it is probably better to look for other battery options.  The DVD battery can be had but they are $50 now and at that price point you can get different batteries larger capacity for just a little more money.  When these batteries were $10 & $20 they just couldn't be beat.  Now....well tekkon is one that a lot of people go to.  There are others out there but the generic DVD battery is going the way of the Dodo.  If you "have" to have a DVD battery they are on Ebay.  you need to watch, the cheaper ones are usually half the capacity of the more expensive ones.  Most people want at least the 5400 mAh versions.  The 2600 mAh does not really provide long enough run times for a long two set show. 

As for cables, it will depend on what gets shipped with a battery or use one of the cable makers here on TS to build you a nice one.   Hope that helps.

Thanks Kirkd...Appreciate it.

[Myco]

What's the "Extended power pack"? Got a link?

B&H
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/622827-REG/Tekkeon_MP3450_10_myPower_ALL_Plus_MP3450_10.html

here's what it looks like with both units together

Thinking of purchasing a 680. 

Was wondering is there a cord provided with the extended battery pack that connects to the 680?
Or do I have to buy that separately and where would someone suggest to get one?

If I went the 9v DVD way to power the 680, is there a local denver/boulder place I can buy one
Thanks.

Another option is this one. I own a tekkeon, and I own three of these. These run far longer than the tekkeon does, so my recommendation would be these. The tekkeon does offer the flexibility of changing the voltage though, so it depends on what your taping needs are. For festival taping these batterygeek batteries are a better option than the tekkeons because you can run most pieces of equipment all day on one of them.

http://www.batterygeek.net/Portable-DVD-Player-Battery-p/10-14-100_batterygeek.htm

[hoserama]

Bit off topic, but then not.

So I borrowed a buddy's D100 DAT with the purpose of transferring some old DATs, and was planning on using the spdif in on the tascam. Have the 7 pin cable > rca coax. Plugged it into the DAT...and no DIN Lock. In fact it doesn't seem to recognize it at all. I know its not the cable, because I've used the SBM-1 with the cable and it locks in perfectly.

At one brief moment it locked, showed levels, and then unlocked.

Poked around the net. Looks like the dat doesn't put out perfect spdif voltage, but most recorders could take it. Does the Tascam take only regular spdif voltage, and I need to break out another setup (ie not the tascam 680), or am I doing something wrong?

EDIT: I think I figured out my problem. Patched it into my multiface>laptop, no problems. Realized the DAT was set at 48k, whereas the tascam was set at 44.1k. Switched the Tascam to 48k, now its golden.

[Chuck]

Recently, I heard some unexplained noise on one of my recordings with the DR-680. The problem was on channels 5 & 6 only. So, I did a test and found that the set of breakout cables I made for those TRS  inputs make a bunch of noise when the connector twists (even a very slight twist) in the DR-680 TRS jacks. The break out cables I made have some generic TRS connectors, as I found them very easy to work with for making right angle outputs. I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with any other brand of connectors?  I do have some Neutrik and Switchcraft TRS connectors, so I'm going to test them next.

[tgakidis]

Recently, I heard some unexplained noise on one of my recordings with the DR-680. The problem was on channels 5 & 6 only. So, I did a test and found that the set of breakout cables I made for those TRS  inputs make a bunch of noise when the connector twists (even a very slight twist) in the DR-680 TRS jacks. The break out cables I made have some generic TRS connectors, as I found them very easy to work with for making right angle outputs. I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with any other brand of connectors?  I do have some Neutrik and Switchcraft TRS connectors, so I'm going to test them next.

What's the cable?

[Chuck]

Recently, I heard some unexplained noise on one of my recordings with the DR-680. The problem was on channels 5 & 6 only. So, I did a test and found that the set of breakout cables I made for those TRS  inputs make a bunch of noise when the connector twists (even a very slight twist) in the DR-680 TRS jacks. The break out cables I made have some generic TRS connectors, as I found them very easy to work with for making right angle outputs. I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with any other brand of connectors?  I do have some Neutrik and Switchcraft TRS connectors, so I'm going to test them next.

What's the cable?

Belden 1804a. I should have thought to PM you before posting. I knew a cable maker would provide some good input. I believe it's the connectors that I used, not the cable.

[tgakidis]

The connector is probably a good place to start.

Recently, I heard some unexplained noise on one of my recordings with the DR-680. The problem was on channels 5 & 6 only. So, I did a test and found that the set of breakout cables I made for those TRS  inputs make a bunch of noise when the connector twists (even a very slight twist) in the DR-680 TRS jacks. The break out cables I made have some generic TRS connectors, as I found them very easy to work with for making right angle outputs. I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with any other brand of connectors?  I do have some Neutrik and Switchcraft TRS connectors, so I'm going to test them next.

What's the cable?

Belden 1804a. I should have thought to PM you before posting. I knew a cable maker would provide some good input. I believe it's the connectors that I used, not the cable.

[Chuck]

TRS jacks and plugs are sketchy as far as I'm concerned when used for microphone inputs . I've never liked using them. They don't lock, they stick out too far & they can spin. I suspect that when I try Switchcraft plugs everything is going to work just fine.

[kirk97132]

Use TRS & TS a lot and with many different brands and even custom right angles.  Never had a problem with any of the channels on the 680.  And since you HAVE to use them in order to get channels 5 & 6, whether you like them or not becomes a moot point.  I'd look over the connectors to be sure that there isn't a light "layer" of dirt or anything,  maybe even wipe them down with alcohol to clean them.  The spinning should not make any noise, even though I would not recommend it.  I guess a rule of thumb is if you can see a line on the sleeve where the contact is making the connection while spinning then there might be some "dirtiness" there that could be the cause of your problem.  I'm also assuming that none of these decks are old enough to have developed any corrosion on the contacts inside the deck.  Or maybe you've been taping out in a row boat in heavy surf?   Another thing to check is can you spin any part of your TRS connection. IE Can you spin the tip of ring or sleeve part with your fingers?  You should not be able to do that.  If you can then that plug needs replacing.

[Chuck]

I brought it up, partly because I didn't have this issue with my first DR-680. I have tried other connectors this week and found the Switchcraft TRS to work best so far. But, the problem didn't completely go away. I'm going to treat the connectors with ProGold this weekend. I try to treat all my connectors with ProGold once or twice per year. I'm hoping that is all that is needed.

[baustin]

Recently, I heard some unexplained noise on one of my recordings with the DR-680. The problem was on channels 5 & 6 only. So, I did a test and found that the set of breakout cables I made for those TRS  inputs make a bunch of noise when the connector twists (even a very slight twist) in the DR-680 TRS jacks. The break out cables I made have some generic TRS connectors, as I found them very easy to work with for making right angle outputs. I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with any other brand of connectors?  I do have some Neutrik and Switchcraft TRS connectors, so I'm going to test them next.

what kind of noise?

[Chuck]

Scratchy, like the jack or plug is dirty or corroded. I know the plugs are good and clean. I've had the recorder for less than one month, so the input jacks shouldn't be  old and corroded.

But, like I said, the noise only appears when turning the plug inside the TRS jack. I'm willing to bet that ProGold will fix it.

[Chadfish]

Which ProGold product do you use? I was just checking out their site, and there is a lot of products.