Topic: 1st time transferring Analog to Digital

[Albix714]

This will be my first time transferring a cassette to digital. I have access to an Edirol UA-5 (not digi mod).

I will be renting an tape deck not sure which one.

I have a PC w/ USB and Cool Edit Pro 2.0

If anyone has any tips and or suggestions, I would be grateful.

I want to do this right. Thanks

[Craig T]

1. tape deck > UA5's rca line inputs (on rear)
2. record digital master at 24/96 (set "ADV" to "on" located on rear of UA5, set sample rate to 96k on front of UA5).

you could also cross-fade the tape flips, intro/outro fades, gain, EQ, resample and dither to CD quality 16/44.1,...

make sure you back-up the 24/96 master before doing any DSP/editing.

[heath]

try to get a tape deck that has adjustable azimuth if you really want to make sure everything goes absolutely perfect!

[Albix714]

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

[greenone]

Make sure you clean the tape deck's heads first! Swab 'em with denatured alcohol if possible. And run the tape deck as hot as possible - better to crank the analog up than do gain in post...

[kskreider]

Make sure you clean the tape deck's heads first! Swab 'em with denatured alcohol if possible. And run the tape deck as hot as possible - better to crank the analog up than do gain in post...

I personally prefer Intraclean to regular alcohol.  Get a small bottle if you can still find it.

One more word: "Nakamichi"

[NewHomebrew]

One more word: "Nakamichi"

That does make a huge difference.  Try to get a Nak deck with pitch adjust and bias adjustment.

[Albix714]

OK, I now have a Nak Cassette Deck 2 w/ bias adjustment (no azimuth adjustment). I have a show to transfer that is on 2 Maxell XL-II cassettes. They are 1st Gen tapes that were recorded with Dolby C.

On playback do I need to set the deck's NR to Dolby C?

What does the Bias Tuner actually do?

Any other tips are appreciated, thanks.

[Brian Skalinder]

OK, I now have a Nak Cassette Deck 2 w/ bias adjustment (no azimuth adjustment).

The CD2 likely allows azimuth adjustment, just not through a user-friendly external knob.  If you remove the cassette door, you should be able to use a small, plastic-headed/stemmed screwdriver to adjust the azimuth.  Take a look inside for the small screws near the heads that will adjust the azimuth.  Give it a try, it's easy to do - if you can do this, adjusting the azimuth for each cassette as you play back will have a BIG impact.

On playback do I need to set the deck's NR to Dolby C?

Per Michael Bell's Guide To Cassette Decks and Tape Trading:

If you have a tape that already has Dolby on it the best way to copy it is
to set the Dolby off on both decks.  The copy will still have the dolby on
it and will need Dolby engaged when playing it back.  Most people don't
want Dolby on their tapes though so most of the time you will decode the
dolby on your play deck and then record without Dolby.  Some dubbing decks
will not let you do this.  Multiple encoding and decoding of Dolby will
make the sound worse and should be avoided.

What does the Bias Tuner actually do?

Re Bias, you should have the deck calibrated by a high end audio shop for the cassettes you're using (if it isn't already).  You'll then fine-tune the bias for each individual cassette played back.  Again, per Michael Bell's Guide To Cassette Decks and Tape Trading:

Bias Setting (Tape Types)

There are three broad bias or tape type settings.  These are:

Normal or Type I
Chrome, CrO2, High Bias, or Type II
Metal or Type IV
[Type III or Ferric Chrome is no longer available.]

Each of the names on a line means the same thing.  The first name is the
most common in usage.

Most cassette decks should have settings for the different types of tapes.
Car stereos, boomboxes, and walkmen sometimes do not.  In playback mode
metal and chrome are basically the same.  Many car stereos and walkmen have
a playback setting that says chrome/metal.  Many newer cassette decks have
an auto setting so you do not have to even worry about setting this.  Even
with auto setting there should still be some sort of indicator light
showing the setting.

Fine Bias

Within the normal and chrome settings there is also bias fine tuning that
is necessary.  Most better decks made within the last several years will
have some sort of bias fine tuning.  Some of the older decks may not.  If
your deck does not have any sort of fine bias adjust you should find out
what tape the deck was factory set for and use that tape or have the deck
recalibrated for the tape you want to use.  Many decks are set for Maxell
XL-II or TDK SA in the chrome position which are pretty close to each other
as far as bias.  The exception would be where the deck manufacturer also
makes tapes in which case they would likely bias their decks for their own
tapes.  This is a concern that needs to be addressed with Sony and Denon
decks.  The deck's manual should say what tape the deck was set for.  If it
does not try contacting a service representative for the company or try
experimenting with different tapes.  (More on different tapes below)

There are two ways of setting the bias fine tuning.  With automatic systems
it is usually just a matter of inserting the tape you wish to set the deck
for and pushing a button.  The deck will go through its motions for several
seconds and then be ready to go.  With a manual system there is usually a
dial on the front of the deck.  In the straight up position the dial should
lock in place and be set for whatever tape the deck was biased for.  The
deck's manual will show where to set the dial for other brands of tapes.
If the manual does not give the information you need, you can call a
service representative or you can try to figure it out for yourself by ear.
 

You will need a 3-head deck to set the bias by ear.  Start recording a good
sounding source(preferably a CD or LP) you are familiar with.  Put your
deck on source and get a good idea of how it sounds.  Then switch over to
tape and have the bias dial set to the straight up position.  Slowly turn
it to the right and see what it sounds like and then slowly turn it to the
left.  Your goal is to as closely as possible find the setting that will
match the sound of the source to the tape setting.  Resist the urge to set
the dial only based on where the hiss is the least.  This can result in
dull highs.  The difference in sound will likely be very subtle, so take
your time and  listen closely.  The effects will be most noticeable in the
high frequencies.  Try this both with speakers and headphones.

[Albix714]

Thanks for the tips Brian.

[NewHomebrew]

And of course don't forget the type 1 or type 2 settings, if they're manually set.  I think these are EX, SX, LX on some Naks?  I always found that confusing.

[Albix714]

Yep, I did my 1st test transfer using Type II and NO dolby.

Sounds much better w/o Dolby.

Tape 1 has levels that are much higher than Tape 2.

Tape 2 sounds much better (no distortion).

Should I raise Cool Edit's levels for the final transfer of Tape 2?

[Brian Skalinder]

You should set your levels with the UA-5 so the signal approaches, but does not hit, 0dB.  Try a test run on a loud portion of the tape and watch your levels in CEP as you record.  Get them as close to 0dB as you can without hitting, and then start over and record the whole cassette side.  Repeat the process for side B and additional tapes.  You do not want - nor should you need - to apply any gain changes in CEP proper, i.e. after completing the recording from cassette deck > UA5 > PC.

[Albix714]

So it's ok to seperately adjust the recording levels for Tape sides A & B or Set I & II?

Thanks again.

[Brian Skalinder]

So it's ok to seperately adjust the recording levels for Tape sides A & B or Set I & II?

Depends.  If the original tapes have a single recording that spans both sides, and levels were set only once on side A and they were not changed on side B, then don't adjust the transfer levels for side B.  Doing so would change the dynamic range of side B relative to side A.  If the original tapes had levels set separately for sides A and B, then yes - set them individually during the transfer process.

[Albix714]

Not to beat a dead horse but...

What I think happened was the taper set the levels too high for Set I and realized it and then brought the levels down for Set II (which sounds great).

So I think I'll adjust for the difference between Set I & Set II.

[greenone]

One more word: "Nakamichi"

That does make a huge difference.  Try to get a Nak deck with pitch adjust and bias adjustment.

Just to clarify here...Naks really work best for playback if the original tape was made on a Nak. If you have the deck (or the same model) that the recording was made on originally, that would be best, but in the absence of the original deck, yeah, a Nak won't do you wrong.

[Gordon]

I will be doing this for the first time as well in a few days.  I do not and probablly can not get a nak.  I have a kenwood deck that was barely used before I put it away.  nothing great but not too bad.  I plan on going cass > v3 > audiophile 24/96 (via coax) > wavelab.  should I be worried about pitch issues etc?  didn't know about (or really understand) azimuth adjustment etc.

[Albix714]

Gordon, here are some tips I found on azimuth adjustment: http://www.phish.net/faq/azimuth.html