Topic: SUBJECT CHANGE: homemade t-mount/shock mount tips?

[ozarkbilly]

Ok I've got one of these
http://cgi.ebay.com/Background-Backlight-Light-Stand-New-RF2054_W0QQitemZ200202402079QQihZ010QQcategoryZ30080QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
and one of these
http://cgi.ebay.com/Light-Stand-7-ft-New-RF2051_W0QQitemZ190201320511QQihZ009QQcategoryZ30080QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

coming tomorrow, and I'm planning on buying one of these t-mounts from sound professionals
http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-GNA-3

to use with my CA cards.  What sort of adapter do I need to make this work?  Both stands have a 5/8 stub.  I see the adapter that SP has listed on that page, but I just don't know if that's what I need, and my timeframe before I definitely want to have my rig together is quickly shrinking. 

[aegert]

It looks like the stand is a lighting stand that should have a spigot you can attach a rapid adapter to.. Read this thread its all in there.. The 2 bar I saw in your link had 5/8ths thread so it will be just as in the below link..


http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,99588.0.html
A

[SmokinJoe]

Get a couple of these... http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-TMA-1  At the top of the light stands are a 1/4-20 screw thread, and this will screw onto that, and then your mount will screw onto the adapter.

The Rapid adapter Billy mentioned is great, but for your tiny mics, the 1/4" adapters are plenty strong enough and cheaper.

[ozarkbilly]

+T to both for your help!  Now, armed with this information, is there a cheaper alternative to this t-bar for mini-mics?  The t-mount is $45 for the 12", then $8 x2 for the adapters.  $61 + shipping to top off my .99 stand seems like a bit of overkill...
Also, my CA mics have built-in clips.  Would they work with this t-mount?  If not, what are the alternatives?

[SmokinJoe]

OK this is easy.  Find "something" about 7" long... like a thin flat piece of metal, or plastic, or wood.  Drill a 1/4" hole in it, and get a 1/4-20 nut from the hardware store (they are about 5 cents).

I say 7".... DIN is about 8" wide, so you get something 7" long, and then clip the mics on the end, pointing outward at 45 degrees each, for a total of 90 degrees with respect to each other.

This will get you mounted... not "shock mounted".  If someone kicks your stand you will hear it.  Shock mounts are just about anything with a little rubber suspension to it... get a little creative.

[aegert]

You know that the stand you are buying is 24" right?

A

[Belexes]

The first stand is 27 inches.  That won't get you above midgets at a show. 

I have the T-mount you are looking at.  With the CA mics that come with the clips, the mics won't fit in the windscreens.  I am thinking about getting the CA mics without the clips, which Chris is happy to do. (saves him time)  If you hack off the clips, you can get these:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/127169-REG/Shure_RK183T1_RK183T1_Set_of.html

[ozarkbilly]

The first stand is 27 inches.  That won't get you above midgets at a show. 

Yes  .  The first is 27" and the second is 7'.  And I think it would depend on the height of the midget

[ozarkbilly]

OK this is easy.  Find "something" about 7" long... like a thin flat piece of metal, or plastic, or wood.  Drill a 1/4" hole in it, and get a 1/4-20 nut from the hardware store (they are about 5 cents).

I say 7".... DIN is about 8" wide, so you get something 7" long, and then clip the mics on the end, pointing outward at 45 degrees each, for a total of 90 degrees with respect to each other.

This will get you mounted... not "shock mounted".  If someone kicks your stand you will hear it.  Shock mounts are just about anything with a little rubber suspension to it... get a little creative.

OK I went and wandered around Walmart for two hours and finally settled on a thin 12" metal ruler that I plan on drilling a hole in the middle of and wrapping the ends of with electrical tape to thicken it up a bit.  A few questions about mic configs:
how important is the 7" long thing?  Will it sound like ass if I leave it the full 12"?  Also, on the sp site that I linked to above they offer a 6" 12" & 24" version of that t-mount.  The metal ruler that I found has a 1/4" hole in one end as purchased.  What would one use the 24" t-mount for?   Since I could just grab another ruler and have my own 24" t-mount for $1.98 plus the cost of a nut. 

Also, can anyone offer some hints on which way to turn for a home-made shock mount?

[Jeremy Lykins]

I have the T-mount you are looking at.  With the CA mics that come with the clips, the mics won't fit in the windscreens.

Damn.  I hate when I read things like this when it's too late to do anything about it. I've already bought that T-mount and I've ordered some CA-11's, so how badly won't they fit?  Will I need to hack 'em off if I want to use that T-mount?  I've contacted Chris about this, but it's probably too late, and I've bugged him a bunch already.  Any suggestions on their removal?  X-Acto knife?

[Belexes]

I have the T-mount you are looking at.  With the CA mics that come with the clips, the mics won't fit in the windscreens.

Damn.  I hate when I read things like this when it's too late to do anything about it. I've already bought that T-mount and I've ordered some CA-11's, so how badly won't they fit?  Will I need to hack 'em off if I want to use that T-mount?  I've contacted Chris about this, but it's probably too late, and I've bugged him a bunch already.  Any suggestions on their removal?  X-Acto knife?

If it's too late, you may want to just leave the clips on and clip on to the T-mount.  The wind screens in the SP bar can be pushed out without damage and you could see if even with the clip they fit on to the CA-11's.

There's a 'ring' on each end of the SP bar and I think with the clips on the mics you won't be able to push the mics in.

Perhaps only consider surgery on the CA-11's as a last resort, but if the hack is done and you still need clips later on, Shure makes some nice removable ones that I use for my MM's.

[Jeremy Lykins]

If it's too late, you may want to just leave the clips on and clip on to the T-mount.  The wind screens in the SP bar can be pushed out without damage

Thank you for the suggestions, but it turns out that Chris was able to build 'em without clips for me.    I PM'd him right before I posted this message, and he got back to me within an hour to tell me that he could still do that.  Also, thanks for the info about the windscreens being removable.  I thought that they were glued in there. 

While we're talking about that T-bar...what's the best way to carry/store it?  I've got an old camp-chair bag for my mic stand, but if I put the T-bar in there with it I'm afraid that the windscreens would get crushed.  Should I carry it in the bag with the mic stand and remove the windscreens?  Or would putting them in and taking them out too much ruin them? 

[Belexes]

I keep mine in a backpack and am just very careful with it.  With the bar I bought being 12", I bet there might be some cheap plastic boxes in the craft or fishing areas of Wal-Mart that would house it.

[Jeremy Lykins]

I bought the 12" one too.  Does it get bent out of shape in your backpack?  Do the windscreens get scrunched?  Also, what mic configuration do you use with that T-bar?  I'm guessing that I'll be using it for either ORTF or AB, so I'll probably want to keep it as straight as possible.  And I hadn't thought about getting a plastic box for it, but that's a great idea.  I could just slide that in the camp-chair bag with my mic stand.

[reverser]

Not to hijack the thread but this 7" vs. 12" issue being talked about is leaving me a bit puzzled.

If one were buying a t-mount for the small AT mics, like this one:

http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/SP-DTS-11

...would it be advisable to get the 7" config or the 14.5" config?

Again, not trying to hijack just going off on a little tangent of information contained within this thread.