Seems like we're going in circles here!
Just think all the going back and forth in this and other threads would NOT be so necessary if Edirol/Roland had mounted, soldered, and secured the correct input jacks in the first place. Then no better or worse than those minijacks found in the other decks.
Now this otherwise great little deck is a pain for customers and gotta believe for Roland.
Wondering if new R-09 production runs having the good soldering and glued down jacks (like I've seen in recent runs) is now 'normal semi-reliable' for 3.5mm type?
Let me be the first to answer my own query!
Have R-09 later production unit with the Roland 'jack fix' treatment THAT BROKE the Left Channel LINE input PCB pad off the board!
I do recall being excessively rough one time with lead-forming the molded right-angle plug cord into a sharp horse-shoe bend and jamming the deck into its Daylight View Case last time I used it. Apparently this was enough generated torque to rip the left channel pad off. And this is the first time rough handling a right angle plug has 'broken' a minijack; always a first time for everything I'd guess!
Apparently Roland's choice of RTV silicone adhesive is not holding securely enough with adhesion to the jack's plastic, and being so thin and flexible a material to 'give' too much with torque. In other words, the glue doesn't grip consistently well enough to prevent instances of pad lifting like I just experienced.
The fix took the better part of an hour to carefully scrape and peal ALL traces of the RTV from the jack and board using the sharpest curved tweezers you'll likely to see, clean several times with Q-tip applied alcohol, clean blown air, and 'plastic welder' type epoxy generously applied to the sides of both input jacks.
While it is now very doubtful these jacks will ever be serviceable (like desoldering and replacement) because this epoxy IS NOT BE REMOVABLE, BUT jacks are now solidly attached with NO CHANCE OF COMING OFF THE BOARD, EVER AGAIN!
If applying a strong plastic adhesive epoxy is chosen as most practical fix, then using an RTV solvent might make removing this 'glue' less tedious, but damage or contamination of the jack contacts and other board components more likely than slow mechanical removal method like I used.
While I considered working the jacks completely off and soldering cables to external jacks like proposed, problem of absolutely securing the cables without more glue to the board, and the electrical 'plug is inserted' signal working off the ground-switch inside the jack prevents this from being an easy practical solution.