Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Remote Power => Topic started by: Ian on January 15, 2013, 03:36:34 AM
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What's up people?? I am wanting to use my V3 but my old eco-charge is totally kaput!! I have seen these threads:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=152186.0
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=155454.0
I was wondering if anyone had better instructions or a way to tell if my V3 is 6v or 12v, I don't remember.
I am going to for sure be making a new battery pack for it and will post all pics as it's happening.
What's the deal, why is no one running one of these beautiful preamps any more?
I always had trouble with the power cable and battery pack so I'm super stoked to make a new upgrade.
Suggestions welcomed.
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The serial number sticker should indicate if it is a 6v or 12v. If you have the serial number you can contact grace designs and they can look it up.
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Here is a list of batteries that folks on the board are using...
Dynex DVD / 9v / Size B, 4.00mm OD × 1.70mm ID
http://www.dynexproducts.com/products/video-accessories/DX-LI101.html
Ultralast DVD / 9v / Size B, 4.00mm OD × 1.70mm ID
http://www.ultralastbatteries.com/battery-match/?R=&page=details&model=UL-DVDL&category_id=1
Bixnet BP160 / 12V/19V + 5V USB Port / Size N, 5.50mm OD × 2.50mm ID
http://www.bixnet.com/unpowbat.html
Battery Geek Mobile Power Station (Different Models) / Size N, 5.50mm OD × 2.50mm ID
http://www.thebatterygeeks.com/External-Laptop-Batteries-for-PC-Mac-Tablets-s/1.htm
Tekkeon 3450 / 5,6,7.5,9,12,14,16,19V & 5V USB port / KPPX-3P Kycon DC Power Connector
http://www.tekkeon.com/products-mypowerall.html
Naztech PB15000 Universal Power Bank Charger / 9,12,16,18,19,20,21V / Size N, 5.50mm OD × 2.50mm ID
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007URKIGC/ or ebay source here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130691172867?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
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if you can't dig up a DVD battery (they're still out there, and they work great. you can have it refitted with better cells too), i'd go the Tekkon route. i've heard nothing but good things regarding that battery.
no need to build anything yourself if you don't need to.
and Ted is pretty much the subject matter expert on this, and he makes great cables if you need one.
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another option -- ecocharge batteries are nothing more than sealed lead acid batteries (SLA) with fancy caps affixed to the top. If you carefully pry off the cap, you'll find that you can easily replace the battery with a new one (the power wires slide onto the battery terminals) and continue to use your existing ecocharge infrastructure.
The battery sizes used by ecocharge are non-proprietary and are readily available . . ..
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if you can't dig up a DVD battery (they're still out there, and they work great. you can have it refitted with better cells too), i'd go the Tekkon route. i've heard nothing but good things regarding that battery.
no need to build anything yourself if you don't need to.
and Ted is pretty much the subject matter expert on this, and he makes great cables if you need one.
Ted is awesome. Very easy to reach.
DO NOT BUY TEKKEON'S THEY ARE GARBAGE!!!! I had three that had to be replaced and now all three replacements don't work. They are ticking time bombs for all of you who bought them. I am getting Bennett's old DVD batteries and a dual cable from Ted to get back in the game.
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another option -- ecocharge batteries are nothing more than sealed lead acid batteries (SLA) with fancy caps affixed to the top. If you carefully pry off the cap, you'll find that you can easily replace the battery with a new one (the power wires slide onto the battery terminals) and continue to use your existing ecocharge infrastructure.
The battery sizes used by ecocharge are non-proprietary and are readily available . . ..
There are a lot of drop in Lithium Polymer SLA drop in replacement batteries avail now as well - I don't know if the ecocharge charger will work but it may - they weigh about half the weight and hold 25-30% more charge. They cost a bit more at $90-150 versus $25 or so for the SLA counterpart
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I was asking the same question not too long ago. I bought the Tekkeon 3450 and so far it has worked great.
I see some folks have had trouble with them but so far so good. I bought it through Grace's website w/ the power cable for the V3.
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I was asking the same question not too long ago. I bought the Tekkeon 3450 and so far it has worked great.
I see some folks have had trouble with them but so far so good. I bought it through Grace's website w/ the power cable for the V3.
The great feeling you have now will make the pain that much worse when it fails you.
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just sent this e-mail:
To: chris@tekkeon.com
Sent: Tue, January 15, 2013 11:17:34 PM
Subject: Re: RMA C0507211 myPower ALL MP3450 (2)
Hey Chris
All three replacements failed. One last Summer and the last two a few weeks ago. I am warning people here not to rely on them. 6 for 6 failure rate was as bad as it can get.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=160202.0
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another option -- ecocharge batteries are nothing more than sealed lead acid batteries (SLA) with fancy caps affixed to the top. If you carefully pry off the cap, you'll find that you can easily replace the battery with a new one (the power wires slide onto the battery terminals) and continue to use your existing ecocharge infrastructure.
The battery sizes used by ecocharge are non-proprietary and are readily available . . ..
^^^^ SPEAKS TRUTH
The hardest part is to pry off the top that Eco charge puts on the battery. After that, just replace the battery and pop top back on. You'll have a brand new set up. I don't have the model number in front of me but I think they cost about $25-30 for a new one.
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Moment of truth. Set up for RRE in Milwaukee with Bennett's old batteries.
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Moment of truth. Set up for RRE in Milwaukee with Bennett's old batteries.
All went well last night. So much easier than having to turn on the Tekkeons and set the voltage. So nice to have the charge indicator lights and light weight after lugging around 12 volt and then 6 volt ecocharges from 1999-2008. It is also great to have the dual feed so I can swap out one when needed and keep rolling. To top it off waiting at work today was my box from Amazon. I ordered 4 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-DVDU923-Universal-Battery-Portable/dp/B0011MZORU
Ready for EFF Tonedeaf and Bean!
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Moment of truth. Set up for RRE in Milwaukee with Bennett's old batteries.
Moment of truth. Set up for RRE in Milwaukee with Bennett's old batteries.
All went well last night. So much easier than having to turn on the Tekkeons and set the voltage. So nice to have the charge indicator lights and light weight after lugging around 12 volt and then 6 volt ecocharges from 1999-2008. It is also great to have the dual feed so I can swap out one when needed and keep rolling. To top it off waiting at work today was my box from Amazon. I ordered 4 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-DVDU923-Universal-Battery-Portable/dp/B0011MZORU
Ready for EFF Tonedeaf and Bean!
I can't frickin WAIT for EF!!!
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Anyone using something like this for their V3?
http://www.all-battery.com/nimh6v10000mahbatterypackwithbareleadscustomize.aspx
Nimh 6V 10000mAh Battery Pack with Bare Leads. About $40.
Just splice in a RC type connection with the V3 plug.
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Got a photo of that dual feed cable?? Would love to check it out now that I have a V3 to power up as well. I have a Tekkeon 3300 that I've used for other devices without issue - but recent threads have made me wary.
Thanks
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dunno if this has bearing but the Tenergy LI-Ion 18650 battery got some bad reviews....the battery linked IS NOT Li-Ion
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So what other good v3 powering solutions exist that are reasonably priced?
The 9.6v nimh batteries always seemed like a good solution:
http://www.batteryspace.com/Universal-External-Portable-DVD-Battery----NiMH-9.6V-4500-mAh.aspx
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So what other good v3 powering solutions exist that are reasonably priced?
The 9.6v nimh batteries always seemed like a good solution:
http://www.batteryspace.com/Universal-External-Portable-DVD-Battery----NiMH-9.6V-4500-mAh.aspx
If people are comfortable with a little hacking and don't mind not having a battery strength meter:
Get a cheap Sony NP-F960 style battery charger (these are the batteries used by the Sound Devices 7xx recorders) like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-BATTERY-CHARGER-Compatible-NP-F970/dp/B0041PMDOQ/ref=pd_cp_p_2
The top "tray" of the charger slides out (I think these were designed so the charger portion could remain the same and a variety of sleds could be made to slide into the charger portion, allowing a wider variety of batteries to be accommodated).
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41qcrhplCfL._AA300_.jpg)
Hack into that top tray and add a cable with the switchcraft locking connector needed by the V3. I found this pretty easy, as the tray on the charger I got had a back plate held on with tiny screws. Get a jeweler's phillips head, pop off the back, and the only thing in there is a couple wires between the battery side connectors and the connection plate to the charger portion (all the charging electronics are in the charger portion). Easy enough to just solder in a wire for your switchcraft connector for the V3.
Then you can use this as a battery sled that accepts NP-F960 and NP-F970 batteries. The knockoff versions can be had pretty cheap. I had gotten some from ebay for like $25 each that worked great. One of these batteries should power the V3 for 7-8 hours.
I'd get a different charger than the hacked one to actually charge the batteries though.
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That looks brilliant. Does the battery stay in the sled, or could it slide out easily?
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That looks brilliant. Does the battery stay in the sled, or could it slide out easily?
The battery clicks firmly into place, so it doesn't slide out.
I should also add that the V3 can be set up for 6v operation or 12v operation. These batteries are 7.2v. No problem at all with operating the V3 at 7.2v, but the low battery indicator will not work properly. You don't want to over-discharge li-ion batteries, so if you run the V3 at the 6v option and the low battery light comes on with these 7.2v nominal li-ion batteries, it is pretty much time to stop recording.
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just sent this e-mail:
To: chris@tekkeon.com
Sent: Tue, January 15, 2013 11:17:34 PM
Subject: Re: RMA C0507211 myPower ALL MP3450 (2)
Hey Chris
All three replacements failed. One last Summer and the last two a few weeks ago. I am warning people here not to rely on them. 6 for 6 failure rate was as bad as it can get.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=160202.0
I can echo this as 100% true... I'm on my third Tekkeon battery, 18 months in (with moderate use, two or three shows a month) and it's totally unreliable. Died at a show last night, got home, plugged it into the charger, it showed 80% of the battery and charged in 25 minutes to "full" power. These are garbage for what you pay. These batteries should cost $30, not $160. I need to use this thing tomorrow, and I'm taking an A/C adaptor with me and a power strip. Something that I shouldn't ever have to do after paying that much for a battery. :facepalm:
Needless to say, I'm looking for new options for powering my V2 (6v). This feels like a dumb question, but how do I get a cable from: http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-DVDU923-Universal-Battery-Portable/dp/B0011MZORU to plug into the V2? The power connector on the V2 is a little weird... Who makes those around here? :D What kind of run-time do people get on those? When people said 'dual cable,' is that because they are running two batteries? Is that required, or more for the purpose of swapping?
Thanks!
--Ryan
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Needless to say, I'm looking for new options for powering my V2 (6v). This feels like a dumb question, but how do I get a cable from: http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-DVDU923-Universal-Battery-Portable/dp/B0011MZORU to plug into the V2? The power connector on the V2 is a little weird... Who makes those around here? :D What kind of run-time do people get on those? When people said 'dual cable,' is that because they are running two batteries? Is that required, or more for the purpose of swapping?
Thanks!
--Ryan
PM sent
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just sent this e-mail:
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=160202.0
Needless to say, I'm looking for new options for powering my V2 (6v). This feels like a dumb question, but how do I get a cable from: http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-DVDU923-Universal-Battery-Portable/dp/B0011MZORU to plug into the V2? The power connector on the V2 is a little weird... Who makes those around here? :D What kind of run-time do people get on those? When people said 'dual cable,' is that because they are running two batteries? Is that required, or more for the purpose of swapping?
I bought two of these and I would not recommend buying them. They are only 2700mah, and only power my V3 for 2-3 hours at most.
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I bought two of these and I would not recommend buying them. They are only 2700mah, and only power my V3 for 2-3 hours at most.
Thanks! I tracked down a 20000 mah battery on ebay that had selectable voltage down to 9v. It seems those are getting harder to find, or my search skills are worsening. Once I get it, I'll try to run it down a few times to see what kind of run times I'm getting.
--Ryan
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I bought two of these and I would not recommend buying them. They are only 2700mah, and only power my V3 for 2-3 hours at most.
That was my impression from doing the math on the spec. Thanks for the confirmation.
It's sad that portable dvd players are an outdated concept and we can no longer find and benefit from the batteries that powered them. I miss the rb-270, though I still have two of them in good condition. They seem to last for years. I thought I was paying a lot when I snagged one at best buy way back in 2007 or so.
I know a lot of folks have used nimh rc packs. Those are still inexpensive, and powerful. Anyone still running them?
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no issues using the naztech at 9v with a 6v V3?
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I would not recommending running a 6V V3 with a 9V batt.
7.2V batt is OK.
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I ran my v3 for years with 9v DVD batteries until I picked up a tekkeon.
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I would not recommending running a 6V V3 with a 9V batt.
7.2V batt is OK.
i've run my v3 off a 9v lithium for years
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I stand corrected. I guess its designed to be robust enough to handle it and it sheds off the extra voltage as heat.
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Yep, it's a little warmer than when I ran it off a 6V SLA, but works just fine
Grace has always said that you can run a 6V v2 or v3 off of 12v just fine. They just run warmer that way
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good to know. i run the v2 at 7.5 volts with the tekkeon, and the battery doesn't get as hot... may just use the naztech for 12v recorders for now.
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I ran my V2 for a while at the 7.5v setting and it eventually started to shut off after a while. I never had the problem again after switching to the 9v setting.
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"switch to 9v setting" on the tekkeon, right? that's interesting... never heard that.
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Yes. It could've been any issue with my battery though.
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Instead of observing the warning 120 days has past since this has last been posted in, I thought I'd keep it in here anyway.
Is anyone else using the Naztech PB15000 (http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-PB15000-Universal-Charger-Extended/dp/B007URKIGC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376769549&sr=1-1&keywords=Naztech+PB15000) to power your V3?
I bought a V3 a couple months ago and have done 7 shows using the Naztech. Pulling the opening act and headliner, I usually have at least 1/2 the batteries capacity left according to the battery indicators. I've been experiencing some issues ever since I've added the V3 to my chain (akg460/ck61>v3>R44 SPDIF/Analog), but I don't think it has to do with the V3 itself (it's at GD as we speak being tested).
After reading all the information about the power supply connection etc, I'm guessing when that is an issue, you would lose power to the V3 all together?
I ask that because my issue primarily has been the signal in both channels fades in both the SPDIF and analog feed after approximately 45 minutes to an hour and 12 minutes of run time. After the opening act (less than an hour) I'll either put the deck in record/pause mode or have shut everything down all together with the same result, that being, after the headliner comes on the channels fade to almost nothing in some cases approximately an hour in. Rather odd, in some instances, the signal has regained some power toward the encore of a 2 1/2 hour show.
I'm using a Lowpro Magnum 200 AW bag, stilts and initially (first 2 shows) had two Naztech batteries (btw set on 9v) slid between the R44 and V3 using dividers. Thinking this may be causing to much heat, which I thought may be weakening the signal from the V3, I moved the batteries to the side in their own separate compartment. Every time I run, I have the Lowpro unzipped with the straps buckled for the top and I hang the bag with one of those super large snap hooks usually on the fence rail etc, to leave plenty of room for air to circulate.
Other things I've done, changed cables, sent the mics to Richard Land for servicing, caps rebuilt, sent back for verification after continuing to have this issue. The 6th of 7 shows, the levels ran fine through the entire night (approx 4 hours) with only a very slight margin of difference between channels in both digi and analog. But then the very next night, things went haywire again and the fading was back to the point, by the encore I had nearly no signal. Things will run perfectly and near perfect levels in almost 4 hours of testing here in the house in a controlled environment and GD said their initial testing of 4 hours (playing music through the V3 on the bench) didn't produce anything abnormal.
My initial thoughts is heat being a culprit because in an air conditioned environment (running batteries) things seem fine. But though even as hot as it has been, inside the bag hasn't gotten like what I would consider super hot, I mean you can still touch it and like I said, I make sure it is well ventilated etc.
My second thought is maybe the Naztech power output weakens under the stress of heat and isn't sending enough power to the V3 possibly causing the signal output to drop?
Sorry for writing a book, I just wanted to try and cover it all and reach out to you all in hopes of finding this demon I've been chasing! Maybe I should have started a new thread? Thanks for any help or advice!
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If your V3 is the 12V version you need to run your battery at 12V instead of 9V!!
Instead of observing the warning 120 days has past since this has last been posted in, I thought I'd keep it in here anyway.
Is anyone else using the Naztech PB15000 (http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-PB15000-Universal-Charger-Extended/dp/B007URKIGC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376769549&sr=1-1&keywords=Naztech+PB15000) to power your V3?
I bought a V3 a couple months ago and have done 7 shows using the Naztech. Pulling the opening act and headliner, I usually have at least 1/2 the batteries capacity left according to the battery indicators. I've been experiencing some issues ever since I've added the V3 to my chain (akg460/ck61>v3>R44 SPDIF/Analog), but I don't think it has to do with the V3 itself (it's at GD as we speak being tested).
After reading all the information about the power supply connection etc, I'm guessing when that is an issue, you would lose power to the V3 all together?
I ask that because my issue primarily has been the signal in both channels fades in both the SPDIF and analog feed after approximately 45 minutes to an hour and 12 minutes of run time. After the opening act (less than an hour) I'll either put the deck in record/pause mode or have shut everything down all together with the same result, that being, after the headliner comes on the channels fade to almost nothing in some cases approximately an hour in. Rather odd, in some instances, the signal has regained some power toward the encore of a 2 1/2 hour show.
I'm using a Lowpro Magnum 200 AW bag, stilts and initially (first 2 shows) had two Naztech batteries (btw set on 9v) slid between the R44 and V3 using dividers. Thinking this may be causing to much heat, which I thought may be weakening the signal from the V3, I moved the batteries to the side in their own separate compartment. Every time I run, I have the Lowpro unzipped with the straps buckled for the top and I hang the bag with one of those super large snap hooks usually on the fence rail etc, to leave plenty of room for air to circulate.
Other things I've done, changed cables, sent the mics to Richard Land for servicing, caps rebuilt, sent back for verification after continuing to have this issue. The 6th of 7 shows, the levels ran fine through the entire night (approx 4 hours) with only a very slight margin of difference between channels in both digi and analog. But then the very next night, things went haywire again and the fading was back to the point, by the encore I had nearly no signal. Things will run perfectly and near perfect levels in almost 4 hours of testing here in the house in a controlled environment and GD said their initial testing of 4 hours (playing music through the V3 on the bench) didn't produce anything abnormal.
My initial thoughts is heat being a culprit because in an air conditioned environment (running batteries) things seem fine. But though even as hot as it has been, inside the bag hasn't gotten like what I would consider super hot, I mean you can still touch it and like I said, I make sure it is well ventilated etc.
My second thought is maybe the Naztech power output weakens under the stress of heat and isn't sending enough power to the V3 possibly causing the signal output to drop?
Sorry for writing a book, I just wanted to try and cover it all and reach out to you all in hopes of finding this demon I've been chasing! Maybe I should have started a new thread? Thanks for any help or advice!
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If your V3 is the 12V version you need to run your battery at 12V instead of 9V!!
jbell - The V3 I have is the 12V version. I have been told by Grace Design and others that even setup for 12V, the V3 will calibrate (may be the wrong technical word/term) itself and run on less than a 12V supply.
Not disputing what you are saying, just stating the answer to that very question I've ask before.
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If Grace told you it will work fine than you should be good!! It was just a thought. Sorry I'm not much help. I own the Naztech, but use it for my 680.
If your V3 is the 12V version you need to run your battery at 12V instead of 9V!!
jbell - The V3 I have is the 12V version. I have been told by Grace Design and others that even setup for 12V, the V3 will calibrate (may be the wrong technical word/term) itself and run on less than a 12V supply.
Not disputing what you are saying, just stating the answer to that very question I've ask before.
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If Grace told you it will work fine than you should be good!! It was just a thought. Sorry I'm not much help. I own the Naztech, but use it for my 680.
No apologizes needed man, I definitely appreciate your response and will run it by GD again Monday morning when I call them.
The more I think about it (from a non-electronics minded person..haha) it just seems like maybe the battery weakens and just isn't providing enough voltage. But then I don't know if that would cause a signal drop and I would think the low battery indicator on the V3 would light up or the V3 would just shut down.
From the manual "For the 6 Volt V3, the low battery indicator flashes if the battery voltage drops below 5.75V. For the 12 Volt V3, the low battery indicator flashes if the battery drops below 11.5V."
Not sure the manual is accurate either because I've always run it on 9V and never seen the low battery indicator light up. So I've got to discuss this more in detail with Grace.
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What about something like this:
http://www.batteryspace.com/Custom-NiCD-Battery-7.2V-4400-mAh-Battery-Packs-with-open-end-wire-12xSc.aspx
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What about something like this:
http://www.batteryspace.com/Custom-NiCD-Battery-7.2V-4400-mAh-Battery-Packs-with-open-end-wire-12xSc.aspx
I think I am going to move toward these RC batteries. Easier to find, and cheaper.
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What about something like this:
http://www.batteryspace.com/Custom-NiCD-Battery-7.2V-4400-mAh-Battery-Packs-with-open-end-wire-12xSc.aspx
I think I am going to move toward these RC batteries. Easier to find, and cheaper.
I like the 7.2V idea and definitely the cost. Could probably get through a 4 hour show with 2 of those.
As far as my level issues between channels, Grace Design discovered that the -20dB attenuation jumpers in the left channel was engaged when the other phase wasn't, so that would explain the level discrepancy between channels. So hopefully that will clear things up and we can put this demon I've been chasing to rest!
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I think a "Community Cabler" type should get on the hacking the Sony charger idea. I'd pay for that.
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I think a "Community Cabler" type should get on the hacking the Sony charger idea. I'd pay for that.
this
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I started prototyping, and had some really cool stuff in the works. But when I posted to verify how much interest there was, it was completely underwhelming, so I immediately stopped. Copying someone else's work is easy, but actual R&D takes quite a lot of time.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=53730.msg2036114#msg2036114
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It seems that there is still cONfuSion regarding 6v and 12v Lunatec V3's
If you have a 6v V3 the battery indicator is set to warn you when a 6v battery is running low.
But you can still power it with 6-12 volts. It's just that the battery indicator won't work properly when using the higher voltages.
A 12v V3 will run on anything from 6-12v too. But, the battery indicator will not work properly when powering it with less than 12v.
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It seems that there is still cONfuSion regarding 6v and 12v Lunatec V3's
If you have a 6v V3 the battery indicator is set to warn you when a 6v battery is running low.
But you can still power it with 6-12 volts. It's just that the battery indicator won't work properly when using the higher voltages.
A 12v V3 will run on anything from 6-12v too. But, the battery indicator will not work properly when powering it with less than 12v.
it's been 10-11 years but if someone is really worried can't they just pop off the cover and set the jumpers to either 6v or 12v? I vaguely remember doing this in a parking lot before a show.
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Is anyone else using the Naztech PB15000 (http://www.amazon.com/Naztech-PB15000-Universal-Charger-Extended/dp/B007URKIGC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376769549&sr=1-1&keywords=Naztech+PB15000) to power your V3?
That's what I use. I run it a 9V, my V3 is a 6V version. Never an issue.
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a question with regards to the Naztech PB15000 and powering a V3. I've got a PMD-661 and the V3, will the PB15000 power both units at the same time ok? I see that the batt outputs 12V of course, but also 5v from the usb port....I tried it briefly and it seems to work fine. Or should I just power the 661 separately? Thanks!
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Should be fine powering both, but unplug the USB port when not in use it will be active even if the battery is off.
a question with regards to the Naztech PB15000 and powering a V3. I've got a PMD-661 and the V3, will the PB15000 power both units at the same time ok? I see that the batt outputs 12V of course, but also 5v from the usb port....I tried it briefly and it seems to work fine. Or should I just power the 661 separately? Thanks!
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a question with regards to the Naztech PB15000 and powering a V3. I've got a PMD-661 and the V3, will the PB15000 power both units at the same time ok? I see that the batt outputs 12V of course, but also 5v from the usb port....I tried it briefly and it seems to work fine. Or should I just power the 661 separately? Thanks!
I have done this a number of times with a tekkeon so the Naztech should be no problem
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decided to try the sled idea with the 722 batteries for my V3. I used a cable from Ted and then soldered it in to the sled. V3 powers up fine. I'll test it this weekend to see what kind of run time I get before taping a show Wed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v505/fsulloway/gear/th_20131109_162720.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/fsulloway/media/gear/20131109_162720.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v505/fsulloway/gear/th_20131109_162623.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/fsulloway/media/gear/20131109_162623.jpg.html)
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There is a chance, though a small chance, that i might have a V3 (6V) next week, which I would like to use for Phish next weekend. The V3 does not include a battery, so is there a battery/cable I could purchase/order quickly?
Thanks
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Moment of truth. Set up for RRE in Milwaukee with Bennett's old batteries.
All went well last night. So much easier than having to turn on the Tekkeons and set the voltage. So nice to have the charge indicator lights and light weight after lugging around 12 volt and then 6 volt ecocharges from 1999-2008. It is also great to have the dual feed so I can swap out one when needed and keep rolling. To top it off waiting at work today was my box from Amazon. I ordered 4 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-DVDU923-Universal-Battery-Portable/dp/B0011MZORU
Ready for EFF Tonedeaf and Bean!
and if this is the battery I would need, fuck, because i literally just sold one I never used for $5 on ebay a couple weeks ago. I mailed it within 2-3 days and the fucker leaves (positive) feedback saying he just now received it 6 weeks late, but never said anything to me. He can send it back now.
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There is a chance, though a small chance, that i might have a V3 (6V) next week, which I would like to use for Phish next weekend. The V3 does not include a battery, so is there a battery/cable I could purchase/order quickly?
Thanks
I heard of a guy on this board that makes all kinds of cables and has a really quick turn around but I hear he is a gear flipper.
Moment of truth. Set up for RRE in Milwaukee with Bennett's old batteries.
All went well last night. So much easier than having to turn on the Tekkeons and set the voltage. So nice to have the charge indicator lights and light weight after lugging around 12 volt and then 6 volt ecocharges from 1999-2008. It is also great to have the dual feed so I can swap out one when needed and keep rolling. To top it off waiting at work today was my box from Amazon. I ordered 4 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-DVDU923-Universal-Battery-Portable/dp/B0011MZORU
Ready for EFF Tonedeaf and Bean!
and if this is the battery I would need, fuck, because i literally just sold one I never used for $5 on ebay a couple weeks ago. I mailed it within 2-3 days and the fucker leaves (positive) feedback saying he just now received it 6 weeks late, but never said anything to me. He can send it back now.
That style of "DVD" battery is what I use on my v3 and 10 sonosax preamps that just sit on my shelf and never get used.
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^^^
:clapping:
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crap, guess i better learn how to build one of those cables by next Friday.
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Can not say enough about Ted's workmanship on his cables. He built me power cables for my V3 that the unit sits on and never have had a problem. http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=133186.0
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Yep. So now I definitely need a battery and cable by next Thursday.
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Thanks, Ted. You fucking arrogant cock sucker.
go by some more excessive gear from gearslutz and decide to sell one of your 'others' here to make a profit off the 'community'.
I don't want to do business with you either. I'll go another route.
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Thanks, Ted. You fucking arrogant cock sucker.
go by some more excessive gear from gearslutz and decide to sell one of your 'others' here to make a profit off the 'community'.
I don't want to do business with you either. I'll go another route.
Another quality member joins the community.
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Thanks, Ted. You fucking arrogant cock sucker.
go by some more excessive gear from gearslutz and decide to sell one of your 'others' here to make a profit off the 'community'.
I don't want to do business with you either. I'll go another route.
Another quality member joins the community.
the last thing anyone needs is your judgement, Ted. You know you were trying to take advantage. I likely won't be able to use the V3 next weekend, but I'll find something that works.
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A good, old fashioned, donnybrook at TS.com! It's been a while...
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This is the last time i will mention this guy or comment on this topic. I have a crazy ex-wife who has a Borderline Personality Disorder so i know the best way to deal with her is to not engage her. Clearly this gentleman enjoys the drama so like my crazy ex, I will not engage him any further either.
I have had no communication with this guy until today when he asked me to build him a cable. He on the other hand has been bashing me in thread regarding a sonosax i bought on gearslutz. I choose not to respond to him in that thread but now i feel i need to speak my peace. When he messaged me today I responded below:
Edited by: BSkalinder
Removed private messages. Please refrain from posting private messages in public. Thanks.
The funny thing is this guy has the balls to contact me about my services after publicly accusing me of flipping gear and is shocked when i tell him i don't want to do business with him. Instead of being mature he starts to swear and stomp his feet. What a loser!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Grow up little boy or take your toys and go home. Notice how I don't have to use vulgar language to make my point and engage your borderline behavior.
Prove to us all that your not a crazy boarder line patient by NOT responding to this. Bet you can't each just one!!!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OLe70gpowqQ/Uzy4EtENNJI/AAAAAAAAAHA/pgTAj6c4I2M/s1600/Can't+Eat+Just+One.jpg)
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:::pops popcorn::: :o
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Tomatoes are in season...
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The Hoff called. He said he's gonna drive KITT down here so you can charge your V3 batteries.
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The Hoff called. He said he's gonna drive KITT down here so you can charge your V3 batteries.
Was he wearing recursive .gif undergarments?
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Grace Designs helped me out. Good customer service. If anyone would like to build their own DVD battery to V3 DC cable for about $4.00 send me a message. Not sure what people charge, but I'd say $4.00 is pretty good.
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Thanks, Ted. You fucking arrogant cock sucker.
go by some more excessive gear from gearslutz and decide to sell one of your 'others' here to make a profit off the 'community'.
I don't want to do business with you either. I'll go another route.
You should seek help.
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Thanks, Ted. You fucking arrogant cock sucker.
go by some more excessive gear from gearslutz and decide to sell one of your 'others' here to make a profit off the 'community'.
I don't want to do business with you either. I'll go another route.
You should seek help.
Pretty sure I'm ok with not being ts.com politically correct, asking the manufacturer and ending up with a battery cable solution 6x more competitive than the cable nazi (who basically said my money is no good here), and sharing it with people so they have the option. Monopolies are not a good thing. As for scavenging classifieds for gear you obviously don't need so you can resell, I don't have a problem with the that, but it's funny when the cronies say in their defense he shared good deals with the 'community', but then does the exact opposite. edit) it's also kind of slap in the face to the people who said that's not his style.
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Thanks, Ted. You fucking arrogant cock sucker.
go by some more excessive gear from gearslutz and decide to sell one of your 'others' here to make a profit off the 'community'.
I don't want to do business with you either. I'll go another route.
You should seek help.
Pretty sure I'm ok with not being ts.com politically correct, asking the manufacturer and ending up with a battery cable solution 6x more competitive than the cable nazi, and sharing it with people so they have the option. Monopolies are not a good thing. As for cavenging classifieds for gear you obviously don't need so you can resell, I don't have a problem with the that, but it's funny when the cronies say in their defense he shared good deals with the 'community', but then does the exact opposite.
Wow, it's been a while since we've seen anyone like you around here.
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Thanks, Ted. You fucking arrogant cock sucker.
go by some more excessive gear from gearslutz and decide to sell one of your 'others' here to make a profit off the 'community'.
I don't want to do business with you either. I'll go another route.
You should seek help.
Pretty sure I'm ok with not being ts.com politically correct, asking the manufacturer and ending up with a battery cable solution 6x more competitive than the cable nazi, and sharing it with people so they have the option. Monopolies are not a good thing. As for cavenging classifieds for gear you obviously don't need so you can resell, I don't have a problem with the that, but it's funny when the cronies say in their defense he shared good deals with the 'community', but then does the exact opposite.
Wow, it's been a while since we've seen anyone like you around here.
that might be a good thing, with all the judgmental self-promoting flakes on this site.
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Back in 2011 I started a thread providing the proper connectors and volatage needed to power most of the equipment we as a community use. I did this so ANYONE can build their own cables, including a lunatec v3. It is no secret on how to build your own stuff. There are tons of threads on DIY cables here provided by honest caring and thoughtful
Individuals who want nothing more then to promote the "sport" we have all chosen.
http://taperssection.com/index.php?topic=150794.0
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I'm not going to read anymore of this crap. I just wanted to share a cable solution w/ people in case they are interested. Some people may need a battery cable and if tgakidis doesn't like them that shouldn't be a reason not to have one so you can't work/enjoy your new gear/create etc. Some people are clearly only here for themselves.
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Thanks, Ted. You fucking arrogant cock sucker.
go by some more excessive gear from gearslutz and decide to sell one of your 'others' here to make a profit off the 'community'.
I don't want to do business with you either. I'll go another route.
You should seek help.
Pretty sure I'm ok with not being ts.com politically correct, asking the manufacturer and ending up with a battery cable solution 6x more competitive than the cable nazi, and sharing it with people so they have the option. Monopolies are not a good thing. As for cavenging classifieds for gear you obviously don't need so you can resell, I don't have a problem with the that, but it's funny when the cronies say in their defense he shared good deals with the 'community', but then does the exact opposite.
Wow, it's been a while since we've seen anyone like you around here.
It's the same guy. Can't remember his previous logins here (though I remember several of them from other forums). He'll keep flipping out on people, make some anti-Semitic remarks, leave in a huff, and come back shortly with a new login.
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I'm not going to read anymore of this crap. I just wanted to share a cable solution w/ people in case they are interested. Some people may need a battery cable and if tgakidis doesn't like them that shouldn't be a reason not to have one so you can't work/enjoy your new gear/create etc. Some people are clearly only here for themselves.
If you reread his post directly above, you'll see where Ted provided the information to anyone who wants it, before you even started looking for it.
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Grace Designs helped me out. Good customer service. If anyone would like to build their own DVD battery to V3 DC cable for about $4.00 send me a message. Not sure what people charge, but I'd say $4.00 is pretty good.
$4.00 is pretty good, for the Switchcraft connector needed.
now let's have a reality check.
Skilled labor for an electronics tech. $30 an hour is on the cheap side, but let's start there. Building and testing a custom cable should take about 1/2 hour.
$4 + $15
Overhead. Shop, Electricity, Tools, Taxes, let's add a bit more.
$4 + $15 + $5 = $24
Profit - I hope that Ted is making sure there is enough profit to do this instead of hanging out with family, enjoying the beautiful summer, mixing/editing his own recordings, etc.
$24 + ?
These numbers are rough, I haven't spoken to Ted about his business, but I run a build/repair shop for a production company.
If Ted's pricing isn't your cup of tea, the beauty of the marketplace is that you are welcome to shop around and find another supplier. In this case, you researched, found out what part you needed and have decided to build it yourself. Congratulations for being a part of the free market.
However, Ted is a businessman who is allowed to decide what he wishes to charge and who he wishes to do business with. Judging by my reading of this board over the last 3 years, I'd say that his pricing is competitive and that his customer reputation is excellent on a board where several other vendors have repeated problems.
In short, if there's a problem, it's pretty obvious that it's with you.
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GTFO....You're using perfectly good reasoning and that doesn't fly with this guy. ;D. DF81, sometimes you gotta look in the mirror and say to yourself if everyone but me thinks I'm being an asshole about a particular situation then maybe...just maybe I am being an asshole. We've all been there at some point.
Grace Designs helped me out. Good customer service. If anyone would like to build their own DVD battery to V3 DC cable for about $4.00 send me a message. Not sure what people charge, but I'd say $4.00 is pretty good.
$4.00 is pretty good, for the Switchcraft connector needed.
now let's have a reality check.
Skilled labor for an electronics tech. $30 an hour is on the cheap side, but let's start there. Building and testing a custom cable should take about 1/2 hour.
$4 + $15
Overhead. Shop, Electricity, Tools, Taxes, let's add a bit more.
$15 + $5 = $25
Profit - I hope that Ted is making sure there is enough profit to do this instead of hanging out with family, enjoying the beautiful summer, mixing/editing his own recordings, etc.
$25 + ?
These numbers are rough, I haven't spoken to Ted about his business, but I run a build/repair shop for a production company.
If Ted's pricing isn't your cup of tea, the beauty of the marketplace is that you are welcome to shop around and find another supplier. In this case, you researched, found out what part you needed and have decided to build it yourself. Congratulations for being a part of the free market.
However, Ted is a businessman who is allowed to decide what he wishes to charge and who he wishes to do business with. Judging by my reading of this board over the last 3 years, I'd say that his pricing is competitive and that his customer reputation is excellent on a board where several other vendors have repeated problems.
In short, if there's a problem, it's pretty obvious that it's with you.