Gear / Technical Help > Remote Power
KORG MR-1 External Power Source
H₂O:
Thanks for the input mwz. +T
I was able to get this working with my battery finally and with the original connector cable I made many moons ago for my D8. It appears my battery connector (the connector to the battery) was loose (idiot :) ). My battery is now working and actually charging the unit.
One issue I did find through all this that when running the MR-1 and PSP-2 off the same power source a grounding issue may occur. When I run both on the same battery and connect a from the mini of the PSP-2 to the 2 mini's of the MR-1 the PSP-2 will power on with out being turned on. This will not happen if I run both off seperate external power sources.
So now I am resorting to using internal batteries in the PSP-2. I have run it this way many times in the past but my PSP-2 battery slide is about as reliable as an AD1000 with a failing clock. If the contacts aren't exactly positioned the PSP won't power on.
gmm6797:
Ill admit I know next to nothing about the power stuff, so I follow these threads to a T to make sure I dont fry anything.
Any other suggestions other than the power runner pr2300 set to 5v?
I guess the USB port is just for data transfer and can not be used as a power source?
TIA
bdasilva:
Yes.. the USB is only for data. When you're out of battery it will turn off, plugged in to the usb or not.
Power talk now... I'm going to put together a LM7805 regulator circuit. This will take my 9v battery and regulate it down to the 5vdc we need at an amp max. I have measured the current draw and this should be enough. The JB3 did draw slightly more current and did have current "spikes" and the 7805 (with caps on the output and a good heatsink) worked fine. I'll let you know.
gmm6797:
I have a home made (from a friend, not by my hand) converter that takes the Wally World DVD battery down for a MicroTracker voltage (which I am told is the same as the JB3)... could this work with the MR1 if I change the connector on the end out from a USB (or better yet, add an additional output cable)?
H₂O:
I use a LM431ACZ-ND VR which handles upto 3A and can be built to be adjustable. I have a box with 2 (and very large heat sinks) so this allows me to hook up any voltage (a few volts higher then the voltage I am trying to match) and output 2 seperate voltages at any lower voltage using 2 pots (1 per VR).
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/112285/NSC/LM431ACZ.html
I have CAPs and protection diodes soldered in as well.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version