Topic: JB3 external power

[jshep]

Is it possible to run a jb3 off of a 9.6 v rc battery pack similar to what the ua-5 can use?

That is what I'm doing.  I'm not sure whey everyone else is using 12v... I may be missing something, but I think your batteries are most efficient the closer they are to the voltage after the converter.  I think the more voltage that the converter blocks, the more amprage is lost in the conversion.  Also the rc's are much lighter, and charge much faster.  I originally thought I was going to go 12v, but the guy at my local "battery-plus" store told me that if you charged your sla on anything other than a trickle, it would reduce the life of the battery.  Maybe there is an advantage to the 12v and one of the "car convertor hack" pioneers can answer that for us.  (Thanks again guys for all your research and tests on this thing!!!)

Matt

Is it reasonable to power the jb3 and hosa 276 from one 9.6v rc battery?  I just need to run those two devices.....

Thanks!
John

[F.O.Bean]

so spill the beans matt, how are you doing it

this is another option once a few small hacks are done

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=816

[jshep]

I guess I wasn't too clear in my last post.  I've been reading this thread and while I have an idea of what I need to do, I'm still a bit confused.  I need to power the jb3 and the hosa 276. 

My first question is, can I use one battery or do I need two?  I asked about the rc 9.6v in my last post, but what about the walmart dvd battery?  Can I split the power cord off of one battery, send a pair of wires to the hosa and send another pair to a car adapter that brings it down to 4.5v for the jb3?  Or, do I need to use separate batteries for each? 

I need to put this together for this coming weekend, so I'd like to do the shopping tonight if I can.

Thanks!
John

[F.O.Bean]

im not sure bro, but if you do have to use 2 seperate batts, just put them together and tape them up or something

that would really be the same as one battery w/ 2 outs

[jshep]

True enough on strapping them together.  My shopping list is a bit different if I need two batteries, though.

[mmmatt]

so spill the beans matt, how are you doing it

this is another option once a few small hacks are done

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=816

Sorry guys... I didn't mark this thread to notify and I forgot about it. 
As long as you run everything in parallel the voltage won't change.  This means that you go pos to pos and neg to neg.  So if you have 2 batts or 100 batts as long as they all connect p to p and n to n you're all good.  Same goes for the items you are powering.  I used the same rc connectors that were on the 3000 mah batts I bought from powersource.  I bought them from radio shack and they had p & n leads (about 3 inches) on each one.  I used crimp on connectors to connect it all.  Buy a couple different sizes of crimp ons or a variety pack.  From there it is just simple in and outs.  2 batts = 2 "input leads" and I have 3 "output leads" (svu-2, ua5, and hacked adaptor for jb3) so I crimped 5 wires together (2 inputs + 3 outputs) for positive and 5 for negative.  Then you are in business.  The only other thing you have to consider is length of wire to work with your rig.  I hope this helps, and isn't too late.  If the hosa works on whatever voltage your batts are it will work with this idea.

Matt

[recordista]

how could you tell and how much power would the jukebox need?

IIRC, the JB3 AC adapter puts out 1.5A, and the JB3 can draw slightly more than that if it is recording in WAV and trying to charging a fully depleted internal battery.

Better figure on 2A max.

I'll again suggest the TI PT78HT205 which can easily handle the task, is a reasonably efficient switcher (longer runtimes) and will take anywhere from 9 to 28V in...

[recordista]

it's actually an 8 battery holder and the guy says he uses circuits to regulate voltage no matter what you put in it

yeah schwill, its pretty simple, he just places a couple caps/resistors,a nd BAM, regulated voltage, a nice cap would hold a steady current i believe

Don't try this at home, kids.  The regulator is more likely something akin to the switcher I pointed out above.

[recordista]

BTW, anybody got a source for molded cables that will fit the JB3 power connector?

--thanks

[JNT]

It's the same power connector as the D8.  Philmore model TC240 1.7mm x 4.00mm.

Joe

[F.O.Bean]

a word to the wise.............

i left my jb3/walmart adapter/12v hooked up overnite w/ OUT the jb3 connected

so i lewft the damn walmart adapter connected to the 12v while driving overnite from hampton to MASS, and when i went to recharge the jb3, the damn adapter was fried

so kids, put a fuse on the 4-pin end, i am gonna do it once i figure out what rating fuse and whatnot on the 4-pin end

luckily i am handy w/ a soldering iron and whatnot, cause i saved the fried board, i just cut 2 very small guage wires and burried them in solder where the board had fried and a solder path was gone, and the green board was showing where there should have been the silver electrical path

so what im saying is, PUT A FUSE on that 4-pin end, it made taping the rest of the run a real bitch and i couldnt tape the second day coventry w/ my jb3, only a buddies d-8

so guys, lets start a fuse thread or something showing some high-quality fuses we can put in line w/ our jb3 so this doesnt happen to anyone else in critical times, and ALWAYS plug the jb3 end in first, THEN the 4-pin

[recordista]

i left my jb3/walmart adapter/12v hooked up overnite w/ OUT the jb3 connected

so i lewft the damn walmart adapter connected to the 12v while driving overnite from hampton to MASS, and when i went to recharge the jb3, the damn adapter was fried

so kids, put a fuse on the 4-pin end, i am gonna do it once i figure out what rating fuse and whatnot on the 4-pin end

luckily i am handy w/ a soldering iron and whatnot, cause i saved the fried board, i just cut 2 very small guage wires and burried them in solder where the board had fried and a solder path was gone, and the green board was showing where there should have been the silver electrical path

The adapter fried with nothing connected to it?  A fuse will probably not prevent that from happening again, unless it was caused by some kind of cable problem AND the regulator has no short-circuit protection.  What kind of regulator is in it?

lets start a fuse thread or something showing some high-quality fuses we can put in line w/ our jb3 so this doesnt happen to anyone else in critical times

They're not the fastest or the best made, but for all my portable stuff I now use automotive blade-type fuses because you can find them almost anywhere, even at a 7-Eleven in the middle of the night.

ATC type fuses (used on most '80s-90's cars) are easier to find and can be plugged into a couple of .250" female disconnects.  Disadvantages are a 3A minimum rating and a larger size than ideal for some compact setups.

ATM type fuses (used on newer vehicles) are physically smaller, come in 2A ratings, and can still be bought at most convenience stores.  Disadvantages are the harder to find sockets and not very easy to kludge together with crimp connectors.

I'm using PTCs for battery and power supply protection now since I can bury them inside things without having to worry about replacing fuses.  They're not fast enough to protect electronics, though.

[F.O.Bean]

so what exactly are ya saying bud

should i be using a fusew or not

i deeeef fixed the problem for at least hoipefully moedown

[John R]

i would be glad to help and answer some greay area q's for ya'll but my current work schedule sux and i cant commit to something like that right now

you can now

[recordista]

so what exactly are ya saying bud
should i be using a fusew or not

The electronic regulator chip(s) in your adapter should be self-limiting for current and protected against short circuits.  Burning traces off the board is indicitave of something sompletely out of the box as far as behavior.  More likely, the battery current coming into the regulator somehow shorted out.  Whatever circuit protection you use should be on the battery side of the converter.

IMO, the slickest way to do this is to use a PTC device inside the battery setup--you can solder it inbetween the battery and the 4-pin XLR or pigtail or whatever leaves your battery package.  The Raychem RGE series are ridiculously affordable and I won't build a battery pack without them nowadays.  Size them a little bigger than your biggest charge or load current and you're good to go.  I fuse the negative lead in case someone screws up grounding and on my bigger packs (35 AH SLAs in Pelican 1300 boxes) I put one on each outlet (2x 4-pin + 2x marine cigarette lighter plug.)