This is a very nicely made plug. It's taken years for Neutrik to start making connectors for 3.5mm. Unfortunately, the 1.327" body length is too much at almost twice the body-length of the 'safe' molded right-angle plugs I am suggesting. This Neutrik plug, while having lower 'vertical' height, places the same liability for excessive input jack torque stress as using the usual straight plugs.
Just by the picture I can't quite see how much longer the angled Neutrik connector is compared to yours, but you could offer a ready made cable using your molded connector and a 1/4" stereo jack at the other end for people to plug mics or lines. The rule of never unplugging these short cables should be followed though.
But I still think the best thing would be to replace the R9 connector, if feasible, with a threaded 3.5m stereo jack, like that used on the Sony FX1 camera. Unfortunately there's notmuch space to replace it with a serious connector, like a mini-XLR for instance.
I do supply a short (10 inch length) 'minijack extension cable' that relieves the deck's jack of wear and stress damage liability. And most never unplug the extension from the deck as you suggest.
Internal modifications done to these tiny devices is usually NOT A GOOD IDEA as proposed. Increased liability for damage is MORE likely than using a more practical externally applied solution to connector shortcomings
by on the same page, i mean so you'll know about prior discussions regarding these topics.
we've discussed how nice it would be if this unit supplied 9v of "plug in power" instead of 5v as it would drive a bunch of better microphones w/o the need for a seperate power supply.
This is also about the R-09?
If so: did anyone check the circuit providing the 5V?
Maybe the 5V generator (DC/DC pump?) can be tuned or replaced for 9V?
One option could be to cut the trace or remove the part that couples the 5V into the mic signal wire and add one chip to generate the 9V.
This requires one small 9V DC/DC pump with few or zero extra parts
Please post.
I again think this approach is not practical or the least trivial. The internal regulated power inside the deck is 3.3 volts (NOT 5 volts).
And being a systems design engineer I know from experience that attaching anything to the internal supply rails needs be done with utmost consideration as liability to induce all kinds of noise mayhem, and device failure is the most likely outcome if missing a smallest detail.
Suggest an externally attached mic power module as the most reasonable and practical solution.
However, if taking things apart and trying out stuff regardless of likely outcome makes you happy, then consider the suggestion of doing it for yourself first, and use for awhile before digging into other's as some owners may not be so accepting of NOT having a reliable fully functioning hacked deck.
If determined to do the hack, then consider the DPA 4060 series work fine with 5 volt rails and using a simple inductor-less capacitor switching voltage doubling circuit has minimum parts count and easily increases the 3.3 volts to 6.6 volts that'll work fine for powering the DPA capsules.
