Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Ask The Tapers => Topic started by: Nick in Edinboro on May 24, 2004, 12:10:23 PM
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Anyone ever make one? After running on stage last weekend I'm tempted to make something a little smaller then my big silver bogen knock-off. First a mental picture for you, then my few questions.
Part List and Costs
- 1/2-40 PVC 10ft length $1.19^
- 1 male coupler: $0.26^
- 1 femaile coupler: $0.39^
- 5 "end to end" couplers: $0.12ea. (I got 5, $.60)^
- 5lb. Plate Weight: $2.78%
Total: $5.22*
^ Home Depot, all in same section
% Wal-Mart found in sporting goods.
* This is without paint, which I had laying around.
- Cut length into sections, thinking maybe 12" long or 16" long with enough to go about 3 or 4 feet up.
- Utilize these couplers which are a [female] on both ends so I could join 2x as many lenghts together as I have couplers: male---->[femalecoupler]<----male
- For a base, I used a 5lb weight I got from WalMart. The size is almost exactly the same as a mic stand but heavier and more sturdy. But heavier regardless.... Don't get the "Golds Gym" one, get the silver finished one with the smaller center hole.
- Make one special "bottom section". The bottom section would have a female threaded PVC coupler superglued/hotglued on, and then a male coupler will be attached to the weight. The next part is a custom job, you'll want to find a cylinder that will slip tightly into the hole in the weight (an old unused 1/4" socket for example). I found a 1/4" Black Malleable Pipe male to male coupler fitting (Black Iron Pipe) slipped tightly in. You'll want to epoxy or silicone it into place and then slide the male PVC fitting over the cylinder and glue it into place. I think pictures will help clarify this.
Tips
- If this is for on-stage only, cut the first "section" at about 16-20" just make it as tall as you'll want to use in the field. I made my 16" and seems just about perfect once on top of the weight.
- Tape off ends of cut PVC segments so that extra paint thickness doesn't make your couplers too tight (didn't do this and already primered, afterthought)
- Gluing the couplers might not be neccesary, it's a tight fit and with a rubber mallet they're on their GOOD.
- Sand PVC to a rough finish, then use an alcohol rub or something similar to take off filings.
- Primer, then spray paint to suit.
- If you can find pipe in staggered sizes with enough space in the one larger to give them a "stackable" affect you could pack them all inside the largest PVC pipe and then cap them ($0.16 per cap). Also the larger PVC diameter might permit the drilling of a hole at the bottom to enable mini-xlrs to squeeze through allowing you to run the mic cables through the body of the stand up to a certain height and out the bottom of the stand to wherever your running your pre/ad/etc.
I don't have a digi-camera but I'll try and post pictures if you can't get a mental picture. Easy build
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Check out some table top binocular/camera/telescope stands. A photoshop would have them. Unless your gung ho for a project.
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Very cost effective, PVC is sheap but every time I buy the stuff it some how turns into a potato cannon
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Very cost effective, PVC is sheap but every time I buy the stuff it some how turns into a potato cannon
hey at least your making something fun out of it right??? +T man
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I haven't made a stand, but I did make some extension segments to get my mics a little bit higher from the clamp I have. The guy at Lowe's told me that regular spray paint won't stay on PVC - that might be crap, but I bought some stuff that is supposed to stay on plastic without needing a primer. Worked ok, but it was sort of a pain in the ass to do because I started off using newspaper as groundcover and that got stuck in the paint. I ended up using high gloss junk mail ads. Another option to consider would be to use threaded bolts. You can get them in 3", 6", 12", 24", & 36" lengths and they have couplers to attach two together.