Taperssection.com
Gear / Technical Help => Battery Boxes, Preamps, Mixers, ADCs, and Processors => Topic started by: stvgray on March 19, 2006, 10:45:44 PM
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Okay, I've finally got my JB3 working with my computer, and I'm ready to leave my DAP-1 at home.
But I'm gonna need better metering than the JB3 provides. I've seen other JB3 tapers using a small device with a couple columns of LEDs. Can somebody tell me what that is and where to get it?
And I'm guessing I'll have to calibrate it to the JB3's 0 db level. Is that hard to do?
Thanks for any advice.
Steve
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You're probably referring to the SVU-1 or SVU-2 from Beachtek, though the smaller SVU-1 is apparently no longer made.
http://www.beachtek.com/svu2.html
Somewhere back in the old posts is one with detailed instructions on how to calibrate it with your rig. Use the search function though I'm not sure what terms to use to get usable hits. I think the instructions were posted by Teddy back when he used Ray76 as his login. Maybe he can post a link t othose instructions. Also look for a post from dklein that has a scale imposed on the JB3's meters so you can get a good idea of how they are calibrated.
<edit> for some serious typos </edit>
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Yep... SVU... and run out of your JB3 line out. Calibration on mine was pretty much perfect out of the box. First red was at ua5 clip light and the next indicated clipping. Only had to do a little bit of calibration. Another bonus of the SVU is you can monitor your levels when you are away from you gear.... I'll often be 10'-20' feet away for dancing room etc. Very easy to just look over and see where the levels are at.
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Yep... SVU... and run out of your JB3 line out. Calibration on mine was pretty much perfect out of the box. First red was at ua5 clip light and the next indicated clipping. Only had to do a little bit of calibration. Another bonus of the SVU is you can monitor your levels when you are away from you gear.... I'll often be 10'-20' feet away for dancing room etc. Very easy to just look over and see where the levels are at.
Another crazy idea is to run a MD with line out of the NJB3. The level meters on MD are very good, and even better if you can get a backlit display.
Richard
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You would need an RH10/MZ100 (mac version) for a screen you could see and monitor and those would cost a great deal more than a SVU from Beachtek. But if your buddy has a MD unit... ;D
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i highly recommend the svu with the jb3
and if the svu1 isn't made, you can still grab them on ebay for aroudn $75
i recommend guygraphics
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The SVU1 sounds perfect. I think that's what I've seen other guys using.
Thanks!
Steve
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The SVU1 sounds perfect. I think that's what I've seen other guys using.
Thanks!
Steve
Mine is now in the yard sale - check it out! A great price for used gear.
Scott
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Scott -- pm sent.
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I am going to be making one for $129.99 in the next month it will be available for sale.
Chris Church
Okay, I've finally got my JB3 working with my computer, and I'm ready to leave my DAP-1 at home.
But I'm gonna need better metering than the JB3 provides. I've seen other JB3 tapers using a small device with a couple columns of LEDs. Can somebody tell me what that is and where to get it?
And I'm guessing I'll have to calibrate it to the JB3's 0 db level. Is that hard to do?
Thanks for any advice.
Steve
-
and if the svu1 isn't made, you can still grab them on ebay for aroudn $75
i recommend guygraphics
FWIW, B&H has the SVU-1 listed as in stock at $70, so even if GG is out, there's an option. And the SVU-2 - according to Beachtek's website - is still a current product, available from Guy Graphics for $95.
I am going to be making one for $129.99 in the next month it will be available for sale.
In light of the above, you may want to re-consider pricing, etc. Then again, maybe not if it's a superior, higher quality product. FWIW...
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Just called B&H and they say it's discontinued (which we knew) and out of stock.
and if the svu1 isn't made, you can still grab them on ebay for aroudn $75
i recommend guygraphics
FWIW, B&H has the SVU-1 listed as in stock at $70, so even if GG is out, there's an option. And the SVU-2 - according to Beachtek's website - is still a current product, available from Guy Graphics for $95.
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I dont need a meter - but I have had this idea...
How about a meter that connects to your SPDIF output...?
Could it actually tell you more accurate information about your gain settings?
Like - I dont really think a SVU can say much about brickwalling...? It might "look" normal...but still be over?
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I dont need a meter - but I have had this idea...
How about a meter that connects to your SPDIF output...?
Could it actually tell you more accurate information about your gain settings?
Like - I dont really think a SVU can say much about brickwalling...? It might "look" normal...but still be over?
Digital meters are out there but are very pricy and AC powered,
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I had no idea they were that cheap. To be perfectly honest there is a company that makes electronic level meter kits, I think that is what the company you mentioned is using, they cost about $40.00. I was going to use a kit to save time / money and just re-calibrate it and use better quality componets. its very time consuming because you have to drill all the holes for the led's and all that jazz it would be atleast 1.5 hours of labor +$40 kit + shipping for kit + case for meter + input and output jacks that are NOT RCA at $129.00 I am not going to be ritch selling them at that price.
Chris Church
and if the svu1 isn't made, you can still grab them on ebay for aroudn $75
i recommend guygraphics
FWIW, B&H has the SVU-1 listed as in stock at $70, so even if GG is out, there's an option. And the SVU-2 - according to Beachtek's website - is still a current product, available from Guy Graphics for $95.
I am going to be making one for $129.99 in the next month it will be available for sale.
In light of the above, you may want to re-consider pricing, etc. Then again, maybe not if it's a superior, higher quality product. FWIW...
-
I had no idea they were that cheap. To be perfectly honest there is a company that makes electronic level meter kits, I think that is what the company you mentioned is using, they cost about $40.00. I was going to use a kit to save time / money and just re-calibrate it and use better quality componets. its very time consuming because you have to drill all the holes for the led's and all that jazz it would be atleast 1.5 hours of labor +$40 kit + shipping for kit + case for meter + input and output jacks that are NOT RCA at $129.00 I am not going to be ritch selling them at that price.
Chris Church
and if the svu1 isn't made, you can still grab them on ebay for aroudn $75
i recommend guygraphics
FWIW, B&H has the SVU-1 listed as in stock at $70, so even if GG is out, there's an option. And the SVU-2 - according to Beachtek's website - is still a current product, available from Guy Graphics for $95.
I am going to be making one for $129.99 in the next month it will be available for sale.
In light of the above, you may want to re-consider pricing, etc. Then again, maybe not if it's a superior, higher quality product. FWIW...
My vote is for your combined (3-wire, dual miniXLR) battery box/preamp. You've got a winner there, and noone else seems to be selling this either. My only suggestion is to put a "pigtail" miniplug on the output to reduce the number of connectors.
Richard
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A pigtail on the preamp or the VU meter? I do not put one on the preamp because, if the pig tail breaks your out a preamp. I think using cheap molded ends suck, you can not repair the end in the field you have to replace it. That is why we never used pigtail ends they do break where the cable connects into the preamp. Since we only use mogami wire that is 2.2 mm OD its hard to find a clamp that works well for that size wire. Other companys use what I can only call cheap cable some of them actually use a UNSHEILEDED cable I am not going to name names! We did make an oem preamp for a company called Fel Electronics in the UK they still sell them, that is the only time we ever made a preamp with a pig tail. We want a product that is going to last and feel that a pig tail makes the product unreliable, and hey would you not want to be able to run a 10 foot cable on the output or a 2 inch cable? to suit your needs. With right angle connectors it seems the argument of the connector sticking out is lost.
Lets face it its cheaper for me to buy cheap cable with a molded plug and then drill a hole and solder it on. Then to put another switchcraft jack on my preamp circuit board. I do not build a product from the standpoint of easy to build I build it so I never have to see it for repair.
Chris Church
I had no idea they were that cheap. To be perfectly honest there is a company that makes electronic level meter kits, I think that is what the company you mentioned is using, they cost about $40.00. I was going to use a kit to save time / money and just re-calibrate it and use better quality componets. its very time consuming because you have to drill all the holes for the led's and all that jazz it would be atleast 1.5 hours of labor +$40 kit + shipping for kit + case for meter + input and output jacks that are NOT RCA at $129.00 I am not going to be ritch selling them at that price.
Chris Church
and if the svu1 isn't made, you can still grab them on ebay for aroudn $75
i recommend guygraphics
FWIW, B&H has the SVU-1 listed as in stock at $70, so even if GG is out, there's an option. And the SVU-2 - according to Beachtek's website - is still a current product, available from Guy Graphics for $95.
I am going to be making one for $129.99 in the next month it will be available for sale.
In light of the above, you may want to re-consider pricing, etc. Then again, maybe not if it's a superior, higher quality product. FWIW...
My vote is for your combined (3-wire, dual miniXLR) battery box/preamp. You've got a winner there, and noone else seems to be selling this either. My only suggestion is to put a "pigtail" miniplug on the output to reduce the number of connectors.
Richard
-
A pigtail on the preamp or the VU meter? I do not put one on the preamp because, if the pig tail breaks your out a preamp. I think using cheap molded ends suck, you can not repair the end in the field you have to replace it. That is why we never used pigtail ends they do break where the cable connects into the preamp. Since we only use mogami wire that is 2.2 mm OD its hard to find a clamp that works well for that size wire. Other companys use what I can only call cheap cable some of them actually use a UNSHEILEDED cable I am not going to name names! We did make an oem preamp for a company called Fel Electronics in the UK they still sell them, that is the only time we ever made a preamp with a pig tail. We want a product that is going to last and feel that a pig tail makes the product unreliable, and hey would you not want to be able to run a 10 foot cable on the output or a 2 inch cable? to suit your needs. With right angle connectors it seems the argument of the connector sticking out is lost.
Lets face it its cheaper for me to buy cheap cable with a molded plug and then drill a hole and solder it on. Then to put another switchcraft jack on my preamp circuit board. I do not build a product from the standpoint of easy to build I build it so I never have to see it for repair.
Chris Church
I had no idea they were that cheap. To be perfectly honest there is a company that makes electronic level meter kits, I think that is what the company you mentioned is using, they cost about $40.00. I was going to use a kit to save time / money and just re-calibrate it and use better quality componets. its very time consuming because you have to drill all the holes for the led's and all that jazz it would be atleast 1.5 hours of labor +$40 kit + shipping for kit + case for meter + input and output jacks that are NOT RCA at $129.00 I am not going to be ritch selling them at that price.
Chris Church
and if the svu1 isn't made, you can still grab them on ebay for aroudn $75
i recommend guygraphics
FWIW, B&H has the SVU-1 listed as in stock at $70, so even if GG is out, there's an option. And the SVU-2 - according to Beachtek's website - is still a current product, available from Guy Graphics for $95.
I am going to be making one for $129.99 in the next month it will be available for sale.
In light of the above, you may want to re-consider pricing, etc. Then again, maybe not if it's a superior, higher quality product. FWIW...
My vote is for your combined (3-wire, dual miniXLR) battery box/preamp. You've got a winner there, and noone else seems to be selling this either. My only suggestion is to put a "pigtail" miniplug on the output to reduce the number of connectors.
Richard
Hey, good points! I know what you're talking about quality-wise. A lot of cable out there is neither shielded nor robust.
OK, how about putting a pair of RCA (female) connectors on the box then? Then you can use a standard dual-rca-m to mini-stereo-male 'home stereo' cable. The user can replace this. I'm going to start doing this on my battery boxes, since RCA plugs seem more robust than mini jacks.
Richard
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To hijack the thread, does anyone have any input on HobbyTron? http://www.hobbytron.com/index.html
Looks like they have a couple of alternatives to the BeachTec SVUs on the Electronics, Audio Equipment page http://www.hobbytron.com/AudioEquipment.html
Chris, are these the same kits you were referencing about upgrading?
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Yes there are a few kits out there this company makes a 15 led version with .05% accuracy for $40.00 i dont know how well it would run on a 9 volt I was going to put it on a momentary switch or a spst so that you can lock it on or hit the momentary to see in a stealth situation with a dimmer.
Chris Church
To hijack the thread, does anyone have any input on HobbyTron? http://www.hobbytron.com/index.html
Looks like they have a couple of alternatives to the BeachTec SVUs on the Electronics, Audio Equipment page http://www.hobbytron.com/AudioEquipment.html
Chris, are these the same kits you were referencing about upgrading?