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Gear / Technical Help => Photo / Video Recording => Topic started by: divamum on August 12, 2006, 11:13:30 PM
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Howdy all. Yesterday I dragged out my 35mm Canon Elan when I needed a long zoom and better lowlight/flash to take some theater pictures and it wasn't until I started using the thing that I realised I hadn't shot FILM in about 5 years! Good grief - I think I've forgotten everything I ever learned. I figured I'd wind up with a bunch of blurry nonsense (no tripod - although I improvised by using a handy railing to rest the lens on) but to my amazement got quite a few good pictures, considering the conditions.
Which made me realise that using digital point'n'shoot has made me not only lazy, but I've been putting up with way poorer image quality. I've wanted a digi body for ages but this got me to thinking that since prices seem to be falling it's time to look more seriously -hassling with film developing was a major drag since I can't do my own any more (no space or equipment), and I love the convenience of digital. I have the Canon 28-80 that came with the Elan and a 70-210 (that tele is one of the first generation of USM lenses, I believe - I bought it 2ndhand in about 1996).
So, questions:
- Those lenses will all work with a newer digital body, right?
- I've been reading up on the Rebel and Rebel XT - any thoughts on which way to go? My budget is EXTREMELY limited ... I think I need to go 2ndhand or ebay route (prefer 2nd hand or refurb from reputable source, but I'm open to suggestions).
- what are decent prices on those two models? Ebay pricing seems more variable than usual on these.
- anything else I should know to kickstart this process?
Thanks in advance!
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I'd consider splurging a bit and check out the 20D. Much more durable than the Rebels.
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I just bought a 350d (rebel xt) about a month ago. I love it! It is less $ than the 20d but still has some great features, more than enough for me. Some important differences for a concert photographer between the 20/30d and XT is the XT as 1600 ISO whereas the 30d has 3200 I believe. The 30d also has a spot metering mode in addition to the xt's matrix, center-weighted, and center-area exposure modes. Anyway, despite all the "xt feels like plastic" comments... The xt is still pretty solid if you've been using a point-n-shoot for a while. Personally, if you're on a budget, I wouldn't even flinch to buy the xt body. The most recent posts on my website (see sig) have a bunch of shots from the XT at 1600 ISO with no flash, which are less than ideal conditions, but still came out alright considering the noise you get at those high ISOs. Also, this guy shoots his stuff on the XT, and his shit is pretty damn pro-looking to me... <SMILE>
http://www.boudist.com/
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I just bought a 350d (rebel xt) about a month ago. I love it! It is less $ than the 20d but still has some great features, more than enough for me. Some important differences for a concert photographer between the 20/30d and XT is the XT as 1600 ISO whereas the 30d has 3200 I believe. The 30d also has a spot metering mode in addition to the xt's matrix, center-weighted, and center-area exposure modes. Anyway, despite all the "xt feels like plastic" comments... The xt is still pretty solid if you've been using a point-n-shoot for a while. Personally, if you're on a budget, I wouldn't even flinch to buy the xt body. The most recent posts on my website (see sig) have a bunch of shots from the XT at 1600 ISO with no flash, which are less than ideal conditions, but still came out alright considering the noise you get at those high ISOs. Also, this guy shoots his stuff on the XT, and his shit is pretty damn pro-looking to me... <SMILE>
http://www.boudist.com/
you can get the rebels up to 3200 but i think you have to do the hack for it (just a firmware change)
to answer the previous question- all EOS lenses are compatable with the digital bodies. The only specialties are lenses you dont have (ef-s lenses).
Don't go to ebay for this go over to www.fredmiranda.com/forum
here are the questions you want to ask when buying a used digital slr:
What kind of condition is it in? (you want to know if there are any major scratches or a lot of nasty rubbing- this will tell you how the camera was used. obviously the more damage the shorter the life of the body)
how many clicks are on the shutter? (this is going to be an approximation as you can only get the real count using cancount.exe and that only works on 1 series bodies. anything under 20k snaps you are in good shape. the rebels are rated to 50k clicks on the shutter as is the 20d i believe. i know of people getting 75-100k clicks out of them though. thats a lot of photos)
Was the camera ever dropped or has it ever gotten wet other than typical light rain/splashing, etc.
Where was the camera purchased? (check the retailer to make sure they are an authorized canon dealer)
Do you have the original accessories including manual, Canon battery, charger, and warranty card? (warranty card can be key to getting service sometimes)
Do you want fries with that? (just seeing if you are still reading at this point)
Has the camera ever been serviced by Canon?
Have you ever encountered any backfocusing problems (this was a problem more with the 20d's but I've heard of it being in the rebels as well- some of the nicer glass in combination with the bodies were causing the cameras to focus improperly)
And then all the typical questions about references and whatnot. It is not unusual over at fm for someone to only take money orders or to require you to pay shipping and paypal fees.
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Thanks for the replies so far guys - keep 'em coming! Sounds to me like the Rebel XT is my best bet (I dno't shoot enough for the metal body to be a dealbreaker, and to be honest I'd rather not have the extra weight).
That said, an ebay store called Alkit Pro has a bunch of canon ex demo Rebels/refurbs that seem to be going around the $300-400 mark (as I say, my budget is EXTREMELY limited on this). Any knowledge of this outfit? It's hard to tell if it's associated with the NY mini-chain of hte same name and from what I've been reading over at FM and digigrin (tx for those links - this forum is a great resource for all things!) it's best to be wary of unknown NY-based ebay stores ... In a perfect world I'd really like to buy a new XT, but if I could pick up a body for those kind of $ to get me kickstarted for the time being it might not be such a bad thing to get the ball rolling....
Anyway, thanks again for steering me in the right directions - the last serious camera shopping I did was when I lived in the UK so I'm way behind the curve at this point. You guys rock!! :)
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Thanks for the replies so far guys - keep 'em coming! Sounds to me like the Rebel XT is my best bet (I dno't shoot enough for the metal body to be a dealbreaker, and to be honest I'd rather not have the extra weight).
That said, an ebay store called Alkit Pro has a bunch of canon ex demo Rebels/refurbs that seem to be going around the $300-400 mark (as I say, my budget is EXTREMELY limited on this). Any knowledge of this outfit? It's hard to tell if it's associated with the NY mini-chain of hte same name and from what I've been reading over at FM and digigrin (tx for those links - this forum is a great resource for all things!) it's best to be wary of unknown NY-based ebay stores ... In a perfect world I'd really like to buy a new XT, but if I could pick up a body for those kind of $ to get me kickstarted for the time being it might not be such a bad thing to get the ball rolling....
Anyway, thanks again for steering me in the right directions - the last serious camera shopping I did was when I lived in the UK so I'm way behind the curve at this point. You guys rock!! :)
im telling you, you are going to kick yourself most likely if you buy on fleabay for this stuff, its worth paying a touch more over at fm and getting something you know is going to be good.
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Make sure you get the Rebel XT (350D) as opposed to the plain Rebel (300D). Enough improvements to warrant the extra $$$
I got mine in June for $644 (w/ Kit Lens) after the $100 rebate that was going on.
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Thanks for all this great info. INteresting what you paid with rebate - in my preliminary research I'm seeing USED ones (XTs) going for 400-600 so seems like you got a great deal!
Another question: are there any reputable dealers here in the US who do trade-ins on 2ndhand equipment? That's pretty much how I got my first Canon rig in England - I traded in my old Practika (!!) pentax ME1 knockoff for a Canon eos 1000FN - was the only way I could afford it. Did the same with the lens it came with for the tele and so on and so forth. Then wound up with the Elan "by accident" here in the US when I was burgled - the insurance company said that the Rebel and 1000FN weren't identical so they "upgraded" it to the Elan which was a pleasant bonus! I've been googling, but as yet haven't found the sort of store I'm familiar with - any recc's would be more than welcomed.
Do 35mm have any financial value at all any more? I almost hesitate to get rid of the Elan since it is a fabulous piece of gear, but if the upgrade bug is gonna hit me in visual as well as audio gear I'm gonna have to start making room for it somehow and maybe getting a discount via trade-in somewhere is the way to go....
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Thanks for all this great info. INteresting what you paid with rebate - in my preliminary research I'm seeing USED ones (XTs) going for 400-600 so seems like you got a great deal!
Another question: are there any reputable dealers here in the US who do trade-ins on 2ndhand equipment? That's pretty much how I got my first Canon rig in England - I traded in my old Practika (!!) pentax ME1 knockoff for a Canon eos 1000FN - was the only way I could afford it. Did the same with the lens it came with for the tele and so on and so forth. Then wound up with the Elan "by accident" here in the US when I was burgled - the insurance company said that the Rebel and 1000FN weren't identical so they "upgraded" it to the Elan which was a pleasant bonus! I've been googling, but as yet haven't found the sort of store I'm familiar with - any recc's would be more than welcomed.
Do 35mm have any financial value at all any more? I almost hesitate to get rid of the Elan since it is a fabulous piece of gear, but if the upgrade bug is gonna hit me in visual as well as audio gear I'm gonna have to start making room for it somehow and maybe getting a discount via trade-in somewhere is the way to go....
b&h and adorama both will do trade ins. they are both highly reputable.
35mm has a lot of financial value to some, but probably not to these stores. i still shoot film at times.
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you can get the rebels up to 3200 but i think you have to do the hack for it (just a firmware change)
I don't think that hack works for the xt (350D), it only works for the 300D (aka "digital rebel"). That said, you can just shoot one stop lower in RAW and handle in post to get almost the same thing (ISO 3200).
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right now dell is having sales on 30D's and XT's...
http://www.slickdeals.net/#p7938
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Canon just released the 400d which is a pretty substantial upgrade to the 350d. Which of course means the price on used 350's should start to drop and it is still a great little camera.
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Canon just released the 400d which is a pretty substantial upgrade to the 350d. Which of course means the price on used 350's should start to drop and it is still a great little camera.
yep, i just picked up a 350d for under $300, but sadly it doesn't come with any of the software (zoombrowser, etc).
Anyone willing to upload or B&P me the software discs?
thanks.
Brett
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Minimum service charge by Canon is $150 and they take 2-3 weeks minimum.
The Elans and A2 series Film SLRs had well-know Command Dial failure issues that Canon enjoyed much profit from.
They gave no breaks or credits to the many victims of their cheesey design.
Hence, I jumped ship from Canon earlier in the year
One word on D-SLRs from me:
Nikon
RE: the canon lenses, there is a 1.6X relationship between EF and EF-S lenses:
http://photonotes.org/articles/beginner-faq/lenses.html
An Elan body is worth around $50 these days.
An Elan II about $70 Elan IIe $90 at our local Photo Flea market.
Of course, condition can add or subtract value considerably
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RE: the canon lenses, there is a 1.6X relationship between EF and EF-S lenses:
http://photonotes.org/articles/beginner-faq/lenses.html
That's not stated quite right, close, but it's more accurate to say that the EF-S lenses are for use with 1.6x crop digital bodies only (XT, XTi, 30d, 20d), and the EF lens can be used on any crop or full frame digital or film bodies (any canon body that is). And whoever said the XTi is a huge upgrade over the XT, I'm not sure I totally agree -- the main difference is a bigger LCD and 2 more megapixels (and more megapixels isn't necessarily a good thing always for low light no flash concert photography cause slightly bigger pixels soak up more light).
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RE: the canon lenses, there is a 1.6X relationship between EF and EF-S lenses:
http://photonotes.org/articles/beginner-faq/lenses.html
That's not stated quite right, close, but it's more accurate to say that the EF-S lenses are for use with 1.6x crop digital bodies only (XT, XTi, 30d, 20d), and the EF lens can be used on any crop or full frame digital or film bodies (any canon body that is).
Absolutely true and much better stated.
It should also be said that a 28-200mm EF zoom is effectively a 48-320mm (1.6X) on a Canon Digital
Use this chart and the APS-C focal length equivalencies to find a len's effective size on a digital.
http://www.usa.canon.com/app/pdf/lens/EFLensChart.pdf
The CCDs on Canon digitals are APS sized.
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It should also be said that a 28-200mm EF zoom is effectively a 48-320mm (1.6X) on a Canon Digital
Two comments. One, it depends on your body b/c all canon dslr's are not 1.6x cropped. Take the 5D for example, it's full frame. Second, one thing to keep in mind about the cropping 1.6x is that although in your example you do end up with more like a 48-320mm field of view, you still get the perspective of a 28-200mm lens (it's just cropped and zoomed in) -- this gets lost in some discussions and can be important especially down in the super-wide department. On a rebel, you need that 28mm lens to get your normal 50mm field of view, but your still stuck with the fact that your working with a 28mm lens (and all of the problems that can come with wide angles, like bending of the image, etc.).
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Don't all nikons have 1.3x crop, or something like that.
I would go canon over nikon if you plan on doing concert type photography as canon's handle digital noise at higher ISO's much better than nikons. I've pushed my canon to ISO1600 and 3200 and still manage to get good results most times.
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All I can say about Canon, is that when you have 25 French Nuns and an Orchid room together for once in your career and you turn your command dial and it comes off in your hands, don't say that I never said that it happened to me.
Technology is swell, but reliability is important.
Canon's customer service was not satisfactory to me, and the fact that the command dial issues are well known and documented seems to matter not one bit to them.
In fact, they were defensive and nasty when I mentioned it.
The folks whom I spoke to on the phone lied about what I was to expect at the service center.
The D5 full CCD is interesting, but the fact that the camera has no enviromental seals makes it a non-contender to me at it's price-point.
I think that it is the only full-frame that they have out to date.
Certainly more full-frames to come.
To revisit the 1.6X issue, one last time, if I can...for clarity, the framed image that you see is 1.6x smaller, however magnification remains the same.
Because we compose by field of view, rather than magnification, FOV is considered the more critical element.
Has anyone used a CMOS-based camera, like the Sigma?
It was a hot contender for me, but I really liked one of my Tamron lenses, and wanted to keep my options open. I saw the Sigma as more limited on lens choices.
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Late update:
I wound up getting an excellent price on a Rebel XT, which I've been using with the kit zoom from my 9 year old film Elan and my ooolldddd 70-210 EF (preUSM!) zoom. Of course, 2 months of playing around with it, and I've realised I want some new glass for it too, because these lenses are way too soft when they're opened up, so I'm in the process of acquiring a Tamron 24-135. We'll see how I like it once it's arrived.
In the meantime, I love the camera. As I posted in here at the time, I got a bad unit initially (and props to Beach Camera for sorting it out with no problems at all - an excellent retailer) but the 2nd one they sent out was fine and I have FINALLY had time to play around with it. And LOVE it. It is really a joy to use. I initially felt it was a bit small in the hand to hold comfortably (the Elan is wider) but now that I'm used to it I love it. It doesn't have as many bells and whistles as the Elan - I must confess I DO miss the thumbwheel - but really, it's nothing I can't do manually... more to do with me being lazy than anything else! Colours and lightmeter are excellent, so I'm a happy camper. I'll be very interested to see how it performs with a lens known for a better sharpness.
Anyway, just one (very amateur) user's opinion. Quality control seems a bit random (is it me, or does this seem to be getting worse and worse as electronics become more a part of normal life?) but once you've got your hands on a decent unit, you're good. Excellent consumer-level SLR.
Edited to add: not concert pix (yet!) but one of the kid... I like the color saturation. WOuld have been even better if I'd been using fill-flash, but there ya go.... :)
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Late update:
I wound up getting an excellent price on a Rebel XT, which I've been using with the kit zoom from my 9 year old film Elan and my ooolldddd 70-210 EF (preUSM!) zoom. Of course, 2 months of playing around with it, and I've realised I want some new glass for it too, because these lenses are way too soft when they're opened up, so I'm in the process of acquiring a Tamron 24-135. We'll see how I like it once it's arrived.
In the meantime, I love the camera. As I posted in here at the time, I got a bad unit initially (and props to Beach Camera for sorting it out with no problems at all - an excellent retailer) but the 2nd one they sent out was fine and I have FINALLY had time to play around with it. And LOVE it. It is really a joy to use. I initially felt it was a bit small in the hand to hold comfortably (the Elan is wider) but now that I'm used to it I love it. It doesn't have as many bells and whistles as the Elan - I must confess I DO miss the thumbwheel - but really, it's nothing I can't do manually... more to do with me being lazy than anything else! Colours and lightmeter are excellent, so I'm a happy camper. I'll be very interested to see how it performs with a lens known for a better sharpness.
Anyway, just one (very amateur) user's opinion. Quality control seems a bit random (is it me, or does this seem to be getting worse and worse as electronics become more a part of normal life?) but once you've got your hands on a decent unit, you're good. Excellent consumer-level SLR.
Edited to add: not concert pix (yet!) but one of the kid... I like the color saturation. WOuld have been even better if I'd been using fill-flash, but there ya go.... :)
+t
I too have recently acquired a Canon dslr. So far Im liking it. A rebel xti, along with the 10-22m efs lens, is producing some pretty cool stuff! :D
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/scenes/IMG_0637.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/people%20pics/jake10mm02Baseball2007-04-28.jpg)
edit: along with the 10-22mm, I also picked up the 'thrifty fifty' (50mm f/1.8 ) and Im liking both aside from the kit lens.. hmm.. the only addition I'd like to make for now is the Canon EF 135mm f/2L for some nice lowlight show pics.. then I'd be set for a *while*... :bigsmile:
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I want that 10-22mm lens!
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(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/Jake%208th%20Bday%20Camden%20Riversharks%202007/IMG_1774.jpg)
another 10-22mm shot.. this is Cambell's Field where the Camden River Sharks play.. The ballpark sits right below the Ben Franklin Bridge on the Jersey side..
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I've got the original Rebel, it's a great camera line, I think. Every time I feel the need to upgrade the body, I keep getting more glass. 30kish clicks on her, and all is well, although the focusing screen seems to have attracted a touch of lint...
j
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diggin my xt
Here are a few I shot the other day with the kit lens, 18-55 that came with it. Not a bad lens for daytime shooting.
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yep- the 18-55 ain't bad with good lighting. For my walkaround lens I usually have the Tamron 28-75 2.8 which I like a lot too. 'Course it doesnt go nearly as wide as the 18-55...
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Man, you guys are making me jealous. I really need to get out and take some pictures.
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Just checking in. Loving my 50mm f1.8 lens. The 18-55mm stock one not so much. What lens performs like the 50/1.8 but can zoom? I feel a bit limited at times with the 50. Daylight shows the 18-55 works great but those are few and far between. Any ideas? No real budget. Low end...high end. Tell me about em all. :0)
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Man, you guys are making me jealous. I really need to get out and take some pictures.
I'm kinda lucky in where I live for photography. Natural beauty abounds. Scenic vistas, natural formations, historic homes/communties, beautiful old college (Univ. of the South), waterfalls, gorges, all kinds of stuff. Course I live in the middle of nowhere :P
Tapermark, love the 50 1.8 as well for concert shooting but I too feel a bit limited. Of course, all my money is going into other gear at the moment so nice, fast zoom glass is not option. I may go for a fixed 85mm though to give me some more distance capabilties. Luckily, most clubs I can get stage lip so I will be fine.
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I also have the 50 but I have the USM 1.4 and love it for low light although single focal length does take some getting used too.
I just purchased a 28-135 IS USM and man this is the lens of all lenses for all around use and price.
The IS allows me to use it in lower light situations and I get all types of focal lengths. It does run around $400 though. I will get rid of the 18-55 now that I have this.
My locker now includes
50 1.4 USM
28-135 3.5-5.6 IS USM
70-300 3.5-5.6 EF
18-55 stock lens EF
Starting to feel like a photo junky along with my recording gear.
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Chris -
Excuse my n00bness to the wonderful world of digital slr's, but what is the difference between USM and EF lenses?
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Chris -
Excuse my n00bness to the wonderful world of digital slr's, but what is the difference between USM and EF lenses?
I might be wrong, but all lenses made by canon are either "ef" or "ef-s".. The "usm" stands for "ultrasonic motor" which is the technology for their auto focus system. Some lenses have it, some do not. It is supposedly faster and quieter than their other auto focus motor systems.
for instance.. here is the description of the EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III from Canon's webpage...
""The optical system, construction, and exterior are the same as the EF 75-300 mm f/4-5.6 III USM’s. The difference is that it uses a DC motor instead of a USM to drive the AF.""
as opposed to the EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM, which has this........
"" Compact and lightweight 4x telephoto zoom lens ideal for shooting sports, portraits, and wildlife. The newly developed Micro USM makes autofocusing quicker and quieter. The improved zoom mechanism also makes zooming smoother. The front part of the zoom ring now sports a silver ring for a luxury touch."""
I hope this helps!!
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+t eric, that explains it for me :)
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Chris -
Excuse my n00bness to the wonderful world of digital slr's, but what is the difference between USM and EF lenses?
I might be wrong, but all lenses made by canon are either "ef" or "ef-s".. The "usm" stands for "ultrasonic motor" which is the technology for their auto focus system. Some lenses have it, some do not. It is supposedly faster and quieter than their other auto focus motor systems.
for instance.. here is the description of the EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III from Canon's webpage...
""The optical system, construction, and exterior are the same as the EF 75-300 mm f/4-5.6 III USM’s. The difference is that it uses a DC motor instead of a USM to drive the AF.""
as opposed to the EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM, which has this........
"" Compact and lightweight 4x telephoto zoom lens ideal for shooting sports, portraits, and wildlife. The newly developed Micro USM makes autofocusing quicker and quieter. The improved zoom mechanism also makes zooming smoother. The front part of the zoom ring now sports a silver ring for a luxury touch."""
I hope this helps!!
And...
EF-S = Only work on cropped canon digital bodies (XT/XTi/30d/20d/etc.)
EF = Work on all canon digital and film bodies
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So is the XTi worth the $150-$180 over the XT???
I'll really only be using it at shows and festivals.
Is there a specific lense recomended for low light (concert) shooting??
Thanks,
JAson
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Finally pulled the trigger yesterday. ;D ;D
(http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/5299/bodyaq4.jpg)
(http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/1700/70fm7.jpg)
(http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/2057/50zl2.jpg)
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+t
Your gonna love it ;D
Now, for me to get a zoom lens :)
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Great shots! Where were they taken? I spend a lot of time in KY, TN, NC, and that looks familiar but I can't quite place it.
diggin my xt
Here are a few I shot the other day with the kit lens, 18-55 that came with it. Not a bad lens for daytime shooting.
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USM stands for ultra sonic motor this is what makes the auto focus...auto focus. Apparently it is much quieter than older motors.
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Camera arrived at work at lunch! WOOOOOOOOOOOO
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Great shots! Where were they taken? I spend a lot of time in KY, TN, NC, and that looks familiar but I can't quite place it.
diggin my xt
Here are a few I shot the other day with the kit lens, 18-55 that came with it. Not a bad lens for daytime shooting.
Shots were taken out at Stone Door at Savage Gulf State Park in Grundy County, Tennessee.
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I need A LOT more practice with manual focus with the thrifty fifty. Here are the best from my first time out last night. These three are from the University of Kentucky campus.
(http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/7930/maxhouseig2.png)
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5418/memclockyt7.png)
(http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/7465/doorrw8.png)
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Here's to being at the right place at the right time ;D
I just picked up a canon 75-300mm f4-5.6 IS USM used, but mint for $369 at a local shop.
Going to give it a workout tomorrow and Sunday festi shooting.
JAson
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the 10-22mm efs saves the day again!
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/lightning2671-01resized.jpg)
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+t! that pic is awesome 8)
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I need A LOT more practice with manual focus with the thrifty fifty. Here are the best from my first time out last night. These three are from the University of Kentucky campus.
It's a great lens, but I haven't had much luck with it in low light either. Where were the 1st and 3rd shots taken? I like the 3rd quite a bit.
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The first is the President's mansion on Rose St., backing up to the King Library. The third is the Sigma Nu (I think) fraternity house or right by it, over on Rose Lane near Transylvania Park. I like the third a lot too.
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well, I'm going to expand my lense collection. Just picked up a sigma 70-300 f4-5.6. I do a decent amount of daytime shooting and also venue shooting where I can't get close but stage lighting is excellent. This should come in handy. I do however love my f1.8 50 for real low light and was thinking of another fixed lens in the 80 to 120mm f2.8 range. Any recs. on a decent lens in that category? As much as I want to blow the wad on a fast ass zoom lens, it ain't going to happen at this point so trying to go budget route, at least for now.
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Let me just say that I have enjoyed that Sigma in my experience so far, good choice.
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some pics from my local memorial day parade..
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/Memorial%20Day%20Parade%205-28-2007/IMG_2533resized.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/Memorial%20Day%20Parade%205-28-2007/IMG_2491.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/Memorial%20Day%20Parade%205-28-2007/IMG_2513.jpg)
and from the 50 1.8...
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/Memorial%20Day%20Parade%205-28-2007/IMG_2382.jpg)
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Getting antsy for some new glass, so went out and shot a few with my kit lens (18-55 efs canon) and actually got a few decent shots. Here are some. The last one is the money shot. I was extremely pleased with it.
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Getting antsy for some new glass, so went out and shot a few with my kit lens (18-55 efs canon) and actually got a few decent shots. Here are some. The last one is the money shot. I was extremely pleased with it.
nice! yeah the 18-55 *is* pretty sharp and not bad if it's the only lens you have.. I am torn over an over again as to what to get in terms of a longer lens.. one day its a zoom, the next a fixed, the day after that both! hehe.. I do think that the 135mm f2L is in my future though, and maybe a cheaper zoom for good light conditions..
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Those first two pictures are outstanding Eric!
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Getting antsy for some new glass, so went out and shot a few with my kit lens (18-55 efs canon) and actually got a few decent shots. Here are some. The last one is the money shot. I was extremely pleased with it.
nice! yeah the 18-55 *is* pretty sharp and not bad if it's the only lens you have.. I am torn over an over again as to what to get in terms of a longer lens.. one day its a zoom, the next a fixed, the day after that both! hehe.. I do think that the 135mm f2L is in my future though, and maybe a cheaper zoom for good light conditions..
Well, I got a 50 f/1.8, and a sigma 70-200 f/4-5.6 on the way (my daytime lens). Hoping to pick up a sigma 24-70 f/2.8 real soon and then hopefuly a canon 85mm f/1.8. I would also LOVE that 135 f2 but that is outside my budget for the time being.
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I do think that the 135mm f2L is in my future though...
I shot my avatar with that lens. Larger version here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/baytaper/474128303/in/set-72157600136542729/
Here's another one with that lens in a SUPER dark environment without flash:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/baytaper/385761508/in/set-72157594528233418/
It's outstanding, and worth every penny. Most of my more "close ups" shots on flickr are with that lens.
If you're on more of a budget and looking for fast glass that's just a little longer than the 50mm, the 85mm f1.8 is unbelieveable at $350 -- it's like L glass, and remains my favorite portrait lens despite some of the expensive alternatives I carry around with me. And at 85mm plus crop, it's more like a 135 or so.
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Those first two pictures are outstanding Eric!
thanks!
I do think that the 135mm f2L is in my future though...
I shot my avatar with that lens. Larger version here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/baytaper/474128303/in/set-72157600136542729/
Here's another one with that lens in a SUPER dark environment without flash:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/baytaper/385761508/in/set-72157594528233418/
It's outstanding, and worth every penny. Most of my more "close ups" shots on flickr are with that lens.
If you're on more of a budget and looking for fast glass that's just a little longer than the 50mm, the 85mm f1.8 is unbelieveable at $350 -- it's like L glass, and remains my favorite portrait lens despite some of the expensive alternatives I carry around with me. And at 85mm plus crop, it's more like a 135 or so.
and.. thanks for the links! nice!
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Anyone have any experience with this lens? Sigma APO 80-400mm F4.5-5.6 EX DG OS (http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3272&navigator=3) I am looking for a lens to shoot birds with, as well as some outdoor daytime ( I am not sure how this will do in lowlight) sporting events. I have read good things about the Optical Stablization on this peice, but haven't read alot of reviews on it yet. I have a line on this lens used for 800$...so i am really thinking about it.
anythoughts on how it would do in lowlight? I am guessing not that great.
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anythoughts on how it would do in lowlight? I am guessing not that great.
If you're shooting from the taping section at an outdoor daytime show, this lens probably wouldn't be too bad, but in the dark, its gonna be hard to get a decent shot because its just not fast enough. The F/4.5 will only be at the 80mm end and will grow to f/5.6 at the 400mm end...for concert shooting I'd say you'll need at least a 2.8
Also, I forget the rule, but its something like if you're at 400mm you'll need to shoot at least 1/400 to get a steady shot...something like that, I can't remember exactly. But trying to shoot at 1/400 at 5.6 in a dark room is next to impossible.
For daytime it probably wouldn't be too bad, but I know lots of pros stay away from those types of lenses as they get real soft on the ends because the lens can't be zoomed that much and still stay sharp. Thats why lots of people uses prime lenses over 200mm because its the easiest/cheapest way to get a fast sharp lens. Still, for an amateur just wanting to get out and play a little with a zoom lens, I bet that it'd be a great lens for that and the price seems good. I know I paid $1250 for my Canon 70-200mm 2.8L
Another good alternative would be the Canon 70-200mm 4.0L - still not a great lowlight lens, but its canon pro glass, its sharp, and the zoom would still be great for outdoor shooting and its only $400-$600.
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thanx ed,
however, concert shooting isn't my main concern with this...its mostly birds and sports, possibly some elk(they are SOO far away!)
I wish i could afford a great lens with good distance...they are so frackin expensive! :-[ however...i have also thought about getting two...
the 70-200 f2.8 and a LONG prime if i could find a good price..having never shot with prime...i am worried about framing the pictures correctly, esp in sports when the action moves closer and farther away throughout the game...ugg..so much to learn..so much to spend, with so little time and NO money
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if you're using the rebel, remember the crop factor 200x1.6 = 320mm. I don't know if the sigma factors in the crop or not, so you still might want to look at the 70-200mm F4L - I'd imagine it'd be cheaper and sharper than the sigma and you'd only be giving up 80mm.
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I know I paid $1250 for my Canon 70-200mm 2.8L
:o
Nice price Ed. Where did you get it that cheap? I was thinking they were closer to $1800
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I know I paid $1250 for my Canon 70-200mm 2.8L
:o
Nice price Ed. Where did you get it that cheap? I was thinking they were closer to $1800
The same lens but with IS is about $1650. The non-IS is about $600 less.
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yeah, i bought mine right when IS ones were coming out, I didn't think the IS was worth the extra money. It is, but I still don't need it.
I think at that point in time, everything on FredMiranda was selling for around $1250. I can't remember exactly though, its been almost a year since I bought that lens.
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With Canons rebate going on I got a 70-200mm f2.8L IS for $1,520 delivered to my door. Watch B&H as they have been changing the price of this lens the last few weeks.When I got it it was 1,599-100 so 1499 plus shipping and I'm happy!
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OK, I think I'm done with lenses now.
Just picked up a used Tamron 28-105 SP LD 2.8 It's absoloutely huge (82mm), but it is fast and sharp so far. $350 from Calumet.
Anything else and I'll have to buy a bigger bag.
Then I could always buy 1 more lense, move my camera gear into my Nova 5 and buy a PEGZ 1 or 2 for the rig, that way I can carry the c422 in the bag instead of using a seperate case. >:D ;D
JAson
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OK, I think I'm done with lenses now.
Just picked up a used Tamron 28-105 SP LD 2.8 It's absoloutely huge (82mm), but it is fast and sharp so far. $350 from Calumet.
Anything else and I'll have to buy a bigger bag.
Then I could always buy 1 more lense, move my camera gear into my Nova 5 and buy a PEGZ 1 or 2 for the rig, that way I can carry the c422 in the bag instead of using a seperate case. >:D ;D
JAson
;D
The nova 5's are nice. Unfortunately, mine is already full of camera gear and I have another lens on the way :P For film, I have an old school canon ae-1 with a 28mm 1.8, 50mm 1.8 and a 135mm 1.8, all canon lenses circa 1981 (passed down from the old man). For digi, the rebel xt, kit canon 18-55mm lens, canon 50mm 1.8, sigma 70-300 f4-5.6 apo dg, and on the way is a sigma 24-70 2.8.
Now what next :hmmm:
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there's been bunches of storms rolling though here in the last month or so..
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/scenes/IMG_2742_wm.jpg)
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Nice shot! What lens, speed, aperature, ISO etc?
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Nice shot! What lens, speed, aperature, ISO etc?
I too demand these answers! ;D
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* File size: 56156 bytes
* File date: 2007:06:12 20:39:37
* Camera make: Canon
* Camera model: Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTi
* Canon Lens ef-s 10-22mm f/3.5 usm
* Date/Time: 2007:06:12 09:20:43
* Resolution: 1024 x 683
* Flash used: No
* Focal length: 10.0mm (35mm equivalent: 16mm)
* CCD width: 22.28mm
* Exposure time: 30.000 s
* Aperture: f/22.0
* ISO equiv.: 200
* Exposure bias: 2.00
* Whitebalance: Manual
* Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
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Thank you. Very awesome shot.
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Very nice shot indeed! Thanks for sharing.
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okay. so my wife was bitten by the photography bug recently after borrowing my friends very nice canon 20d SLR setup. Her birthday is coming up next month so I wanted to try to get her a nice entry level type DSLR setup. 10 days ago I knew absolutley nothing about cameras, and to be honest I still really don't know crap, but I've tried to pick up enough to get a decent starter rig for her. However I'd love it if some of you more knowledgeable folks would help me out.
This is what I am thinking of getting her:
BODY
Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT (a.k.a. 350D) 8.0 Megapixel, SLR, Digital Camera Body (Black) Price: $ 379.00
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productList&A=buyUsed&Q=371189
LENS
Canon Normal EF 50mm f/1.8 II Autofocus Lens- Price: $ 79.95 (a.k.a. the nifty fifty)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-USA/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html#goto_itemInfo
ZOOM LENS
Canon Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto EF 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6 USM Autofocus Lens - Price: $ 339.95
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/206435-GREY/Canon_6470A006_Zoom_Wide_Angle_Telephoto_EF.html
-or -
Tamron Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF Macro Autofocus Lens for Canon EOS - Price: $ 399.00
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/347531-REG/Tamron_AF061C700_28_300mm_f_3_5_6_3_XR_Di.html
Here was my thought process.
1) I was advised not to spend a ton on the body, and to spend more on glass(look at me using the photo lingo ;D) if possible. So I went with the rebel XT (350d) body. Obviously canon’s entry level SLR body, but it seems like a reasonable starting point for my wife who knows less than I do about this stuff.
2) I wanted to get one lens with good low light performance for shooting indoors and concert type stuff because she wants to shoot at festivals and family events. I thought the ef 50mm has decent low light performance and would make a good point and shoot type of lens for family gatherings and what not, and it is apparently way better than the kit lens that comes with the rebels.
3) I wanted to get a decent zoom lens. I’m having a tough time deciding between the tamron and the canon lenses. the canon EF 28-200mm seems like a decent choice. It has the USM auto focus which is supposed to be nice. The aperture is decent (3.5 – 5.6) and the 28-200mm seems reasonable. The Tamron lens goes to 300mm which is nice, and I think I can get it used for $300, which would be great and cheaper than the canon. I’m just worried about mating the tamron lens with the canon body. I know it’s built for it, but I’m just worried that they’ll be issues.
So what do you think? Does this all seem reasonable? Is the ef 50mm lens a waste? Should I go with the canon or the tamron zoom lens? I am completely off base with all of this?
Thanks y'all.
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okay. so my wife was bitten by the photography bug recently after borrowing my friends very nice canon 20d SLR setup. Her birthday is coming up next month so I wanted to try to get her a nice entry level type DSLR setup. 10 days ago I knew absolutley nothing about cameras, and to be honest I still really don't know crap, but I've tried to pick up enough to get a decent starter rig for her. However I'd love it if some of you more knowledgeable folks would help me out.
This is what I am thinking of getting her:
BODY
Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT (a.k.a. 350D) 8.0 Megapixel, SLR, Digital Camera Body (Black) Price: $ 379.00
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productList&A=buyUsed&Q=371189
LENS
Canon Normal EF 50mm f/1.8 II Autofocus Lens- Price: $ 79.95 (a.k.a. the nifty fifty)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-USA/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html#goto_itemInfo
ZOOM LENS
Canon Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto EF 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6 USM Autofocus Lens - Price: $ 339.95
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/206435-GREY/Canon_6470A006_Zoom_Wide_Angle_Telephoto_EF.html
-or -
Tamron Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF Macro Autofocus Lens for Canon EOS - Price: $ 399.00
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/347531-REG/Tamron_AF061C700_28_300mm_f_3_5_6_3_XR_Di.html
Here was my thought process.
1) I was advised not to spend a ton on the body, and to spend more on glass(look at me using the photo lingo ;D) if possible. So I went with the rebel XT (350d) body. Obviously canon’s entry level SLR body, but it seems like a reasonable starting point for my wife who knows less than I do about this stuff.
2) I wanted to get one lens with good low light performance for shooting indoors and concert type stuff because she wants to shoot at festivals and family events. I thought the ef 50mm has decent low light performance and would make a good point and shoot type of lens for family gatherings and what not, and it is apparently way better than the kit lens that comes with the rebels.
3) I wanted to get a decent zoom lens. I’m having a tough time deciding between the tamron and the canon lenses. the canon EF 28-200mm seems like a decent choice. It has the USM auto focus which is supposed to be nice. The aperture is decent (3.5 – 5.6) and the 28-200mm seems reasonable. The Tamron lens goes to 300mm which is nice, and I think I can get it used for $300, which would be great and cheaper than the canon. I’m just worried about mating the tamron lens with the canon body. I know it’s built for it, but I’m just worried that they’ll be issues.
So what do you think? Does this all seem reasonable? Is the ef 50mm lens a waste? Should I go with the canon or the tamron zoom lens? I am completely off base with all of this?
Thanks y'all.
good to follow the advice on the camera body and glass.. the 50 1.8, while cheap and *sharp*, will still have to contend with the 1.6 ( think this is the number) crop factor which makes it an 85mm which can be a little *long* for indoor house shooting. I have found it is a bit long for indoor peep shooting, but too short for anything concert wize except small small small venues. It is PLASTIC absolutely, but at the price, it sure does take nice pictures and I dont sweat taking it to places where i'd worry about it being damaged. I personally have been using my efs 10-22mm wide for tight quarter indoor shooting with the flash because it's only a f3.5. The 50mm just wont cut it indoors sometimes due to it's length. I'd look into the zoom first (ef28-200 3.5) maybe as it'll give you an allmost true 50mm for indoors, yet also will give ya the length for outdoor stuff when the light is good.
despite what you read though.. the kit lens (if it is the efs 18 55 3.5) isnt all that bad. It gives you the short length for indoors, and just over 85mm for outdoors. The only drawback is tthat it is a 3.5 which wont cut it most of the time when using available light indoors.
hmm.. deciding on lenses is tough I will say. I have the efs 10-22, the ef 50m 1.8, the efs 18-55(kit), and the ef 100mm 2.0 which covers *alot* of bases, but still leaves me wanting another more versatile lens. Makes it VERY tempting to drop the cake on this baby.. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/264304-USA/Canon_8014A002_Zoom_Wide_Angle_Telephoto_EF.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/264304-USA/Canon_8014A002_Zoom_Wide_Angle_Telephoto_EF.html)
Come to think of it.. the 28-70mm f2.8L USM *might* be the way to go for you.. sure it's pricey, but it gives you the good low light indoor lens for tight quarters (44mm with 1.6 crop) and a 100mm+ for *some* indoor concert stuff..
I know Im all over the place here, which is a true statement to just how hard it is to pick one or two lenses off the bat..
If I allready had a body and need ONE lens to cover lots that I'd like to do, I'd pick the 28-70 2.8L absolutely.. If budget is a problem.. Id go with the kit lens and the thrifty fifty untill I found out 'zactly what I'd want some good glass to do and go that direction.
I hope this helps!
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I'm fairly new at this, but learning quickly myself. I've been noticing that the 28-70 f/2.8 I picked up is a very versatile, fast, sharp piece of glass. I'm loving it! I do also like the 70-300 4.5-5.6 sigma I got for outdoors stuff, though it isn't quite as sharp. The thrifty 50 is mainly staying in my bag along with the kit 18-55.
I signed up for a 3 day workshop on intermediate photography we have at the end of the month up here. Hoping to learn alot and sharpening my skills.
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thanks for the replies guys.
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from last week, with the sigma 24-70, in the front yard ;D
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Nice shot Jon! Love the d.o.f.
Went out the other just looking for some depth of field practice myself. Came out with some fairly pleasing shots.
(http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/9572/reliablesizedac7.png)
(http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/7287/hydrantsizedkx5.png)
(http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/9452/curvessizedub1.png)
(http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/9889/1909sizedvn9.png)
(http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/8784/bucketsizedtk7.png)
(http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/1522/seatsizedun9.png)
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That third shot is very interesting.
Question: How do I add a watermark or sig to my photos? I have photoshop.
oh, and +t for getting out and shooting different stuff :)
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+T back to you in 12.
As far as the signature, I just type that in a text box in each photo (with Photoshop) after resizing. I know you can add a watermark, it might be in ?Filters? but I never have tried it. So basically I'm of no help. :P ;D
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+T back to you in 12.
As far as the signature, I just type that in a text box in each photo (with Photoshop) after resizing. I know you can add a watermark, it might be in ?Filters? but I never have tried it. So basically I'm of no help. :P ;D
Well, I didn't even know about the text box. I've only used photoshop for resizing. Been on my computer for awhile. Time to learn it. I've taught myself all the other audio software I use, time to move on to something else.
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flowers are really out in bloom since we got some rain (finally) the other day. Here are two of the many I just went out and shot.
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I just finished placing the order a B&H and I sort of followed eric b's advice and the advice of my photography knowledgable friends. Picked up....
canon rebel 350d
(http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/items/371189.jpg)
Tamron Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) Autofocus Lens for Canon EOS
(http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/largeimages/284399.jpg)
and some accesories, CF card, card reader, lens cleaning cloth. She'll still need a bag and a good UV filter. thanks for the advice guys. I'm very excited to give this to her.
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Shawn, after playing with hers for a moment, your gonna want one for yourself >:D
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I'm new to the digital SLR myself. I have a Canon 350d with the kit lens. I picked up a 70-300 USM IS for outdoor use and a 28-135 USM IS to fill the gap. I quickly realized I'm stuck when it comes to low light indoor/concerts. I'm wondering if the 28-135 which is f3.5 - ?? will cut it for concerts? I really don't want to buy another lens right now.
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You'll notice the limitations of 3.5 when shooting concerts, especially underlit venues.
Come on, we're all gear nuts, welcome the purchase of new toys ;D
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I just finished placing the order a B&H and I sort of followed eric b's advice and the advice of my photography knowledgable friends. Picked up....
canon rebel 350d
Tamron Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) Autofocus Lens for Canon EOS
and some accesories, CF card, card reader, lens cleaning cloth. She'll still need a bag and a good UV filter. thanks for the advice guys. I'm very excited to give this to her.
nice! I'm curious to see how ya like the tamron 28 75..
post pics! congrats!
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Shawn, after playing with hers for a moment, your gonna want one for yourself >:D
God I hope not. I don't know if we can afford another expensive hobby in our house.
nice! I'm curious to see how ya like the tamron 28 75..
post pics! congrats!
my buddy has the tamron 24-50 f2.8 and loves it, and this is pretty much the same lens. The camera's maiden voyage will be at the all good festival so I'm sure there will be some shots in the rig pics section.
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God I hope not. I don't know if we can afford another expensive hobby in our house.
>:D
I give you two months before you start looking for a 2nd body. Think of it this way, you can share lenses. All you need is a another body.
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right.... well I'll just get you to sell me yours so you can upgrade.
actually this has been good for my taping hobby. I made the camera lens to mic capsule analogy yesterday and I think she finally understands why I want to buy more caps for my mics. ;D
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right.... well I'll just get you to sell me yours so you can upgrade.
actually this has been good for my taping hobby. I made the camera lens to mic capsule analogy yesterday and I think she finally understands why I want to buy more caps for my mics. ;D
:coolguy:
That's the way to explain it ;D
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here is one i liked from today. About a 3 second exposure with a flimsy table top tripod. Time to buy a real tripod.
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here is one i liked from today. About a 3 second exposure with a flimsy table top tripod. Time to buy a real tripod.
very nice shot buff!!
i need to post some pics...im so lazy
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here is one i liked from today. About a 3 second exposure with a flimsy table top tripod. Time to buy a real tripod.
very nice shot buff!!
i need to post some pics...im so lazy
Thanks :) I just finished a 3 day photography workshop with Jeffrey Reynolds. He trained under Minor White and Ansel Adams and has worked as a large format photographer for 40 years. He teaches workshops on standard and digital photography and invented Contrast Contour Colorimetry in 2005. Needless to say, I learned alot and need to take it to the field and practice, practice, practice what I learned before I forget it.
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awesome picture jon.
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awesome picture jon.
QFT!
(I love this thread.)
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here is one i liked from today. About a 3 second exposure with a flimsy table top tripod. Time to buy a real tripod.
very nice shot buff!!
i need to post some pics...im so lazy
Thanks :) I just finished a 3 day photography workshop with Jeffrey Reynolds. He trained under Minor White and Ansel Adams and has worked as a large format photographer for 40 years. He teaches workshops on standard and digital photography and invented Contrast Contour Colorimetry in 2005. Needless to say, I learned alot and need to take it to the field and practice, practice, practice what I learned before I forget it.
where was the workshop? is it somehting he does alot, or kind of a one time opp thing?
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here is one i liked from today. About a 3 second exposure with a flimsy table top tripod. Time to buy a real tripod.
very nice shot buff!!
i need to post some pics...im so lazy
Thanks :) I just finished a 3 day photography workshop with Jeffrey Reynolds. He trained under Minor White and Ansel Adams and has worked as a large format photographer for 40 years. He teaches workshops on standard and digital photography and invented Contrast Contour Colorimetry in 2005. Needless to say, I learned alot and need to take it to the field and practice, practice, practice what I learned before I forget it.
where was the workshop? is it somehting he does alot, or kind of a one time opp thing?
He does them time to time in different parts of the country. He is also a doctor who works as a criminal pathologist. Think CSI. The workshop was here where I live as part of the summer program. I live in a Chataugua and we've had a continuous summer program for the past 125 years. He has taught some workshops here in the 80's and then this one. I feel very fortunate as I'll probably never have a chance to participate in one of his workshops ever again. Our workshop was small, only like 6 of us. The workshop was intended as a intermediate level photography workshop.
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here is one i liked from today. About a 3 second exposure with a flimsy table top tripod. Time to buy a real tripod.
very nice shot buff!!
i need to post some pics...im so lazy
Thanks :) I just finished a 3 day photography workshop with Jeffrey Reynolds. He trained under Minor White and Ansel Adams and has worked as a large format photographer for 40 years. He teaches workshops on standard and digital photography and invented Contrast Contour Colorimetry in 2005. Needless to say, I learned alot and need to take it to the field and practice, practice, practice what I learned before I forget it.
where was the workshop? is it somehting he does alot, or kind of a one time opp thing?
He does them time to time in different parts of the country. He is also a doctor who works as a criminal pathologist. Think CSI. The workshop was here where I live as part of the summer program. I live in a Chataugua and we've had a continuous summer program for the past 125 years. He has taught some workshops here in the 80's and then this one. I feel very fortunate as I'll probably never have a chance to participate in one of his workshops ever again. Our workshop was small, only like 6 of us. The workshop was intended as a intermediate level photography workshop.
thats awesome...as for csi....don't get me started...my wife has her MA in forensic anthropology. weird people i tell you, weird!!! She loves working with remains...has worked doing autopsies in the state crime lab here in arkansas...now she is a stay at home mom :'( [/hijack]
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I am a professional photographer...
I use a Canon Rebel XTi for concerts... the camera at 1600 ISO is plenty fast enough with the right lens.
The XTi shoots 10 meg RAW files, which are good for 11x17 posters.
The CMOS chip in the XTi is now self-cleaning.
The 1.6x is smaller image area than a "full-frame" 1.0x camera. That means the image is slightly cropped, so you just adjust your picture framing when shooting. To get a full-frame camera, you jump up to the $3K price range.
Many people say the 1.6 crop factor in the CMOS chip is a limitation. For concert photography it is actually a benefit.
The 1.6 crop factor makes your lens "longer", meaning you can zoom in closer.
read this and it will make more sense: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/crop-factor.htm
Spend you money on quality lens, the camera is not the most important part of a setup. A really good lens on a Canon Rebel will give you great shots. The Canon EOS Rebel XTi shoots very nice photos, with good color rendition, broad dynamic range and accurate automatic white balance.
Here is a picture of Warren with a Rebel XTi using a Canon 80-200mm f2.8 L lens (image is shot at 1600 ISO at f4.0 at 1/80 sec). The camera cost $600. The lens cost $1800. The quality comes from the lens... the picture you see here is at 20% of the full resolution.
(http://www.fairfieldcounty.net/warren999.jpg)
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So you don't find ISO 1600 to be too noisy? I had issues with it on my Rebel XT, it'd be good to know the XTi was better with it.
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So you don't find ISO 1600 to be too noisy? I had issues with it on my Rebel XT, it'd be good to know the XTi was better with it.
great shot dmc!
Im guessing that since the xti has an updated cmos sensor, it might be a bit sharper at the high ISO's as compared to the xt.. I havent done too much high ISO concert shooting yet with my xti, so I dont know..
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+T back to you in 12.
As far as the signature, I just type that in a text box in each photo (with Photoshop) after resizing. I know you can add a watermark, it might be in ?Filters? but I never have tried it. So basically I'm of no help. :P ;D
Well, I didn't even know about the text box. I've only used photoshop for resizing. Been on my computer for awhile. Time to learn it. I've taught myself all the other audio software I use, time to move on to something else.
if you're still interested in adding a watermark/sig to your pics...here's how....there might be other ways too, but doing a search for "adding watermark in photoshop" in google should get you what you need.
http://www.all-things-photography.com/add-a-watermark.html
Also, if you use Lightroom, there's an option to add your signature everytime you export your files to jpg (either that or its when you import, I can't remember, but I know all mine have my sig in the bottom left).
Also, that Tamron is a great lens, I use mine all the time for portraits, product shots, and low light shooting. Here's some samples if anyone wants to take a look:
My Shar-pei after having eye surgery (http://speshuled.smugmug.com/gallery/2707746#143478906)
When I assisted a calendar shoot (http://speshuled.smugmug.com/gallery/1976085#100637418)
Nice sharp lens.
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So you don't find ISO 1600 to be too noisy? I had issues with it on my Rebel XT, it'd be good to know the XTi was better with it.
The XT and the XTi and totally different cameras, not really the same league. I also have a Canon 5D for full-frame shots. The 5D is $2500... that's a big jump up from the XTi. I would skip the 20D or the 30D... not really much better than the XTi.
Shooting at 1600 ISO is not really a grainy issue at all, although there is a big difference when you go down to 800 ISO. And Adobe just upgrade Lightroom to version 1.1, which allows for grain control for RAW image format. I can blow up my 10 meg RAW files to posters no problem! And with grain control, I can make them up to 30x40 and they still look great. The 10 meg RAW is awesome on the XTi. No other under $1K camera has that resolution.
For indoor convert photos, there really isn't enough light to shoot at 800 ISO. Even with a really fast lens (f2.8 ), you are still at 1/60 -1/125 sec speeds... you can't go slower than 1/60 otherwise shots will look blurry. If the players are jumping around, you need up to 1/250 secs.
So the bottom line, put all your money into quality lens first. You can upgrade to a better body later. And at $600, the XTi is a perfect starter camera within most people's budget. Just buy the body. Don't get the packaged lens. You will end up not using it and the package lens sell used on Ebay for less than $100 -- because no one wants them. Save you money and get an "L" quality pro lens and your shots will be so much better and sharper right off the start.
In the camera lens market, you really do get what you pay for. You can't get a sharp picture with a shitty lens.
Here is a shot I took at an air show about a month ago.
(http://www.fairfieldcounty.net/IMG_1659-P51-sm.jpg)
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Who is gonna buy Warren a training bra?
(http://www.fairfieldcounty.net/IMG_2296.jpg)
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Smiles all around!
(http://www.fairfieldcounty.net/IMG_4436.jpg)
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How big a difference is there in jumping from an xt (what I have) to the 20d? I ask because I'm getting a pretty good deal on a 20d body locally today, and I have a buyer for the xt. I like the xt, but, well, I'm a slut for more gear :P More glass comes next month.
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I have the 20d and think its pretty sweet. If you can get a good deal on one, I'd grab it. The 20d gives you more advanced options than the xt. Kind of the jump from consumer to prosumer, but not quite the pro level of the 5d or the really really expensive pro bodies.
I still want a 5d for the full frame abilities, but until then, I wouldn't give up my 20d for anything.
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Here is one from last night, was using the sigma 24-70mm EX DG f/2.8 set at f2.8 at 1/60
of course resized ;)
Ed, about the 20d, that's what I had heard. Plus a bit more rugged body, which I need as much in the field stuff of different sorts I do.
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I think the 20D and 30D are obsolete.
There is a major difference between the XT and the XTi.
Stay with an XTi and if you want a better full-frame body save up and get the 5D.
The 20D (discontinued) and 30D and not full-frame either.
The XTi with it's cleaning sensor is more advanced than the 20D and 30D... Canon will be coming out with a newer 30D soon. Put your money into good "L" lens and a XTi --- and then save up for a 5D or a 1D
The 20D is 3504 x 2336 (8.2 MP) 1.3 crop factor
The 30D is 3504 x 2336 (8.2 MP) 1.3 crop factor
The XTi is 3888 x 2592 (10.1 MP) 1.6 crop factor
The 5D is 4368 x 2912 (12 MP) 1.0 full frame
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I think the 20D and 30D are obsolete.
There is a major difference between the XT and the XTi.
Stay with an XTi and if you want a better full-frame body save up and get the 5D.
The 20D (discontinued) and 30D and not full-frame either.
The XTi with it's cleaning sensor is more advanced than the 20D and 30D... Canon will be coming out with a newer 30D soon. Put your money into good "L" lens and a XTi --- and then save up for a 5D or a 1D
The 20D is 3504 x 2336 (8.2 MP) 1.3 crop factor
The 30D is 3504 x 2336 (8.2 MP) 1.3 crop factor
The XTi is 3888 x 2592 (10.1 MP) 1.6 crop factor
The 5D is 4368 x 2912 (12 MP) 1.0 full frame
well, I am grabbing the 20d, as soon as I walk out the door. I've already committed to the purchase. The xt will either be backup or stay in the household per se. A 5d will be the next buy but that will be a bit. The xti is just out of my price range as I have gear to buy that actually makes me money (multi track). So, the 20d, though it may be considered obsolete, is gonna have to tide me over until I can afford to make the jump to a full frame camera. I'm used to buying and flipping gear rather often so I'm not concerned. I usually can get what I paid for a piece of gear. Glass will be my next camera purchase, to trade in my sigma 70-300 f/4-5.6 for something a bit better.
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Honestly, I'd buy another 20D before I bought a 30d or an xti. The 20d was and still is a great camera, I think it has enough pro features to give it the edge over the xti. Sensor cleaning aside (honestly, cleaning your sensor takes less than 5 minutes, I can handle doing it on my own), I just don't see the point of spending more $ on an xti than a good used 20d body, when the 20d has more features. And megapixels mean nothing. My 20d can still pull a decent shot at iso3200 when the time calls for it. As far as I know, you can't do that with an xti.
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Ed, I checked out that link you posted up a few posts of that calendar work you did. Great stuff!
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Happy 4th everyone! :)
Here is one from today's festivities of my 1 yr old cousin.
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I am a professional photographer...
I use a Canon Rebel XTi for concerts... the camera at 1600 ISO is plenty fast enough with the right lens.
The XTi shoots 10 meg RAW files, which are good for 11x17 posters.
The CMOS chip in the XTi is now self-cleaning.
The 1.6x is smaller image area than a "full-frame" 1.0x camera. That means the image is slightly cropped, so you just adjust your picture framing when shooting. To get a full-frame camera, you jump up to the $3K price range.
Many people say the 1.6 crop factor in the CMOS chip is a limitation. For concert photography it is actually a benefit.
The 1.6 crop factor makes your lens "longer", meaning you can zoom in closer.
read this and it will make more sense: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/crop-factor.htm
Spend you money on quality lens, the camera is not the most important part of a setup. A really good lens on a Canon Rebel will give you great shots. The Canon EOS Rebel XTi shoots very nice photos, with good color rendition, broad dynamic range and accurate automatic white balance.
Here is a picture of Warren with a Rebel XTi using a Canon 80-200mm f2.8 L lens (image is shot at 1600 ISO at f4.0 at 1/80 sec). The camera cost $600. The lens cost $1800. The quality comes from the lens... the picture you see here is at 20% of the full resolution.
I'm a Nikon shooter so don't currently have the option for a full frame sensor like the 5d, but there are advantages to the larger sensor. Although this is Canon marketing material the principle is pretty clear. http://web.canon.jp/imaging/cmos/technology-e/size.html
Primarily that since the receptor sites are physically larger they can be designed to have lower ISO noise. It's one of the reasons the 5D does so well in low light. All that said I do most of my concert shooting with a Nikon D50 & D70 and come up with some pretty good results...
(http://www.imagelume.com/proofing/Waka07/images/dsc_0407.jpg)
(http://www.imagelume.com/proofing/Waka07/images/dsc_0699.jpg)
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the wife is loving her new camera. she is snapping pics of every thing.... and I mean everything.
attached is a shot of my cousin from a family gathering this weekend.
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went hiking this morning. Cloudy so the light was right for some waterfall shots. Here is one of savage falls. I've got a bunch but thought this one looked alright (and it was the first I processed :P )
iso 100
aperture 32
shutter speed 0"8
canon 20d sigma 24-70 f/2.8 ex dg
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another, up top above the main falls
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one more from a little further below the falls
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one more from a little further below the falls
nice! I like the third one.. more contrast what with the exra green in the pic.. +t!
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one more from a little further below the falls
nice! I like the third one.. more contrast what with the exra green in the pic.. +t!
Thanks for the feedback. :) I like that one too. I wish I had more time down there today. It was a 1.5 mile hike in and I was pressed for time, had to go meet the pops for lunch. I'm definitly going back there again, just getting ideas today for next time.
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I think the 20D and 30D are obsolete.
There is a major difference between the XT and the XTi.
Stay with an XTi and if you want a better full-frame body save up and get the 5D.
The 20D (discontinued) and 30D and not full-frame either.
The XTi with it's cleaning sensor is more advanced than the 20D and 30D... Canon will be coming out with a newer 30D soon. Put your money into good "L" lens and a XTi --- and then save up for a 5D or a 1D
The 20D is 3504 x 2336 (8.2 MP) 1.3 crop factor
The 30D is 3504 x 2336 (8.2 MP) 1.3 crop factor
The XTi is 3888 x 2592 (10.1 MP) 1.6 crop factor
The 5D is 4368 x 2912 (12 MP) 1.0 full frame
Well, this isn't helping my point, but it's worth noting that that 20D/30D crop factor is 1.6x not 1.3 as far as I know.
That said, there are a bunch of reasons why you might go 30D over an XTi. For starters, if you're into concert photography (low light / no flash), there are two key things the 30D has on the rebel: (1) ISO3200, and (2) a spot metering mode. In addition, the low light capability might actually be worse on the XTi because of the added pixels on the same image size.
Beyond that, you could throw in the fact that it uses a bigger and longer-lasting battery (about twice the capacity), and if you know anything about flash, the 30D's max sync is at 1/250 whereas the XTi's is 1/200, that is a difference that matters when it comes to flash for all sorts of complicated reasons. Not to mention that the 30D has separate controls for exposure compensation and flash compensation, whereas they are combined into one adjustment on the XTi -- another absolutely key feature of a more pro camera for anyone using flash. Basically, with a 30D you can dial down the flash compension for fill flash outdoors without touching exposure compensation, with an XTi the only thing you can do is bring down your exposure compensation, which is worthless in that type of a situation (among other scenarios).
For the fast shooters out there, the 30D can do 5 frames/sec, which is 66% faster than the XTi. And, the max shutter is 1/8000 on the 30D, but only 1/4000 on the XTi. This is not only important for fast action shots, but more importantly, for using larger apertures to blur the background in outdoor lighting or other bright environments.
And lastly, the 30D has a few useability form factor features that are improved over the rebel. First, it is bigger and more solid, it feels like a pro camera, where the XTi feels more like a plastic toy. This may not matter to some, but it'll become seriously obvious the minute you try to slap a 70-200mm lens on it. The 30D also has a sweet extra joystick on the back that can be used to pick your focus point or other things depending on custom fuctions. Seems like a small thing, but it makes a difference. And lastly, the 30D shows a bunch of info inside the viewfinder, things like speed, aperture, exposure compensation, etc. This is very, very nice cause your eye doesn't have to leave the viewfinder to change things up in the heat of battle. Now, I'm not sure maybe the XTi has the joystick and the in-eye display, but the older XT definitely did not.
Anyway, the point is, there are definitely additional features to the 30D, and the 30D is certainly not "obsolete." These features for some are simply not worth it, but for others, the combination of these additional things make the 30D much more of a "pro" camera than the XTi is. They are subtle, but they are not trivial, especially the faster sync speed, flash compensation, spot meter, 3200 ISO, faster shutter, and improved durability and ergonomics.
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Tonights sunset, looking out off the bluff high atop the cumberland plateau.
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got my camera yesterday and just started messing with it. took random shots of the dogs. this sequence is titled "Abbi drops the ball but is OK with it"
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Nice pics, heath. Love pet photos. What did you end up getting, and XT?
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Yeah XT. Figured I could save on the body so I could buy more glass from the get go. Now I need to read the book and learn how to use everything :)
By the way, that sunset picture is sweet!!!!
I have a feeling I've been bitten by another bug ;)
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Yeah XT. Figured I could save on the body so I could buy more glass from the get go. Now I need to read the book and learn how to use everything :)
By the way, that sunset picture is sweet!!!!
I have a feeling I've been bitten by another bug ;)
I loved my xt. Sold it to my dad so I could have easy access to it in case I need a 2nd body ;) And yes, you have been bitten by another bug. :P
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Yeah XT. Figured I could save on the body so I could buy more glass from the get go. Now I need to read the book and learn how to use everything :)
By the way, that sunset picture is sweet!!!!
I have a feeling I've been bitten by another bug ;)
I loved my xt. Sold it to my dad so I could have easy access to it in case I need a 2nd body ;) And yes, you have been bitten by another bug. :P
Only Photography can make taping seem cheap.......
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Yeah XT. Figured I could save on the body so I could buy more glass from the get go. Now I need to read the book and learn how to use everything :)
By the way, that sunset picture is sweet!!!!
I have a feeling I've been bitten by another bug ;)
I loved my xt. Sold it to my dad so I could have easy access to it in case I need a 2nd body ;) And yes, you have been bitten by another bug. :P
Only Photography can make taping seem cheap.......
QFMFT!
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Ok, here is a few i took last fall, I was going through them, starting to plan camping for this fall...I hope to post more soon.
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Very nice colors! Nice job!
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Very nice colors! Nice job!
thanx buff.
...that circ. polorizer on the pond shot....those colors are kinda funky to me...makes the grass look blue too...but i like it anyway...
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Anyone want to help me decide if I like this picture or not? :P
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1274/855128755_c06e77ee4b_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=855128755&size=o)
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(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/random%20show%20pics/2007-10-05GPorterJresizedIMG_4030.jpg)
I figured stirinthesauce would like this one.. ;D last night w/ kimock, kimock, and roberts walters at mexicali blues in teaneck, nj.. xti>100mm f2
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(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/random%20show%20pics/2007-10-05GPorterJresizedIMG_4030.jpg)
I figured stirinthesauce would like this one.. ;D
you the fucking man! plustee ;D
Actually, my avi is from a shitty p&s my buddy took maybe 4 years ago at a FM show. Had it for awhile, so it has just stuck and stayed. Very nice shot! Whatcha shoot this with?
Glad this thread got bumped. I'm just about ready to pull a trigger on a 10-22. Budget wise, I'm stuck at 6bills or less. From correspondance with others on the sigma 10-22, I think I'm gonna pass. Considering the tokina 12-24 but no experience with their products. The canon ef-s10-22 is probably what I'm gonna do as it fits my budget, and I prefer canon lenses. Downside is the ef-s, but I will probably stay with a crop sensor (i shoot a 20d and probably gonna move to a 30d or 40d if budget allows). The other downside is the plastic body on these and possible dust factor. Any thoughts from anyone?
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Glad this thread got bumped. I'm just about ready to pull a trigger on a 10-22. Budget wise, I'm stuck at 6bills or less. From correspondance with others on the sigma 10-22, I think I'm gonna pass. Considering the tokina 12-24 but no experience with their products. The canon ef-s10-22 is probably what I'm gonna do as it fits my budget, and I prefer canon lenses. Downside is the ef-s, but I will probably stay with a crop sensor (i shoot a 20d and probably gonna move to a 30d or 40d if budget allows). The other downside is the plastic body on these and possible dust factor. Any thoughts from anyone?
I can give props to the 10-22mm, allthough it is the only wide angle Ive ever used so Im a bit biased.. The construction of the lens, IMO, is great and I havent had any dust problems yet after a year of use.. The only downsides I see are: the fact that it is an efs, which is irrelevant if you are going to stick with cropped bodies AND I believe this lens will hold it's value quite well.. and two, the fact that it is a f3.5.. No way I can use it at a show, but thats ok.. While it's not an everyday walkaround lens, if you keep it on hand you can get some wonderful shots when the timing is right.. pm me with any further Q's if you like....
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/Memorial%20Day%20Parade%205-28-2007/IMG_2531.jpg)
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Thanks for the heads up. I wouldn't think dust would be real issue for me, but I do go on extended trips into the woods, so it will be in a not ideal enviro from time to time. As for concert photog, my 24-70f2.8 and 70-200f2.8 cover that niche nicely. This will mainly be used (90+% of the time) for landscapes.
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http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,92444.0.html
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/scenes/hawk2667nottinghamway_wm.jpg)
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mmm, lunch!
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anybody have any thoughts on the 40D or is it still just a better idea to just go rebel XTi and save for more glass? from the looks of things and a few reviews, it's looks like a great improvement on the 20D and 30D.
i just received a generous and most unexpected gift and i'm finally ready to pull the trigger on a DSLR.
thanks
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anybody have any thoughts on the 40D or is it still just a better idea to just go rebel XTi and save for more glass? from the looks of things and a few reviews, it's looks like a great improvement on the 20D and 30D.
i just received a generous and most unexpected gift and i'm finally ready to pull the trigger on a DSLR.
thanks
myself, I'm gonna wait for the prices to drop. Probably go to this next year. As for you purchasing this, I can't see you going wrong. The 40d is a true pro camera. I would go for this over the pro-sumer line of canon cams. But that is me. The xti is a mighty fine camera.
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yeah...i figured prices would drop after the holidays, but i'm looking to get this before the birth of my child which is in like 4 weeks or less.
need them sharp images from day 1 ;D
here's what i'm looking at right now:
new Canon 40D (comes with a Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM)
Canon EF 50mm f/1.4
and all the necessary accessories.
any thoughts on the lens that comes with the camera? I assume it will be good for the just the standard indoor/outdoor shots. or should i go for just the body which would be 200 bucks less and look for a better "all around lens"? I want it to perform well for outdoors/nature shots/shots of my child outside, but also be good for well lit indoor photos.
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Lens options is up to you. I went with kit lens with my first dslr (digital rebel xt). The lens was ok. Images were sharp, but the focal length was not too practical nor the low light sensitivity. I shopped around and traded lenses and such not. I then sold the body to my dad and bought a virtually new 20d (around 1k in actuations). I've sense traded all my lenses in and running with a canon 70-200L f2.8 (A fricking beast to haul around but if you don't mind weight, it is worth it), a sigma 24-70 f2.8 ex dg (pretty hefty but not bad, my "walking around" lens) and a 10-22ef-s probably on the way next week. That 28-135 I may want to pick up at some point for a daytime walking around lens as it has a little longer reach and would be great for the days where I just wanted one lens.
Sounds like your pretty well covered lens wise. You could go another route or stay with that route. You may want a wider lens for indoor stuff, like a 10-22 or the like, and would be great for lansdscapes. Lenses are like mics, everyone has their opinions, on what tools to use for what situation. You'll just have to figure that out. I also see why getting a camera now is a priority for you. That 40d is going to be sweet!
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thanks for the replies! i just re-read through this thread and those shots with the ef-s 10-22 were amazing! might have to rearrange the budget for that ;)
thanks again!
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I picked up a Sigma 18-50/2.8 for my Nikon but Glass is Glass. I really like it and it is a nice everyday lens. maybe a bit short for some situations, but I like the speed and sharpness you get with the better quality glass. It ran me able $400 from Amazon. The Is kit Canon lens sounds like a good overall lens as well if you don;t mind giving up the speed. IS can make up for camera shake but not subject movement.
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all right folks, need some hands on experience, opinions on some glass. I'm needing a superwide, the 10-22 from canon is what I want, but it will bleed me dry. Plus, won't have left over change for a polarizer and uv filter. Looking now at the tokina 12-24 and reading good reviews. Plus, it is 200 cheaper than the canon. Thoughts?
Nevermind. Went ahead and bought this from bhphoto with uv filter and slim polarizer. Shipping next day air so hopefully I can get some early fall pics on my 2 days off monday and tuesday. Will report.
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just ordered the 40D and am getting the 50mm f/1.4 USM from raoulduke! should be all set by the end of next week!
i was looking at super-wides as well. thanks for the rec on tonika. let us know how turns out. wish i had some dough leftover for that canon though.
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just ordered the 40D and am getting the 50mm f/1.4 USM from raoulduke! should be all set by the end of next week!
i was looking at super-wides as well. thanks for the rec on tonika. let us know how turns out. wish i had some dough leftover for that canon though.
plustee on new toys ;D
That tokina lens I was reading reviews of on fredmiranda and on bh's site. I have not read anything negative about it. Build quality is supposedly top notch, color contrast and sharpness are supposed to be great. I've even read some pros prefer it over the canon 10-22 (hard to believe as I'm a canon fluffer) but the price was right as for what I saved I was able to pick up a nice polarizer (a must for me) and a uv filter. I get off work about 10:30am so when I get home, I should have a package arriving shortly! Spending monday and Tuesday up and around the smokies taking shots so hopefully I'll have something decent to post.
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thanks, and backatcha! i've been doing a hell of a lot of reading. now i just need to go out and shoot! looking forward to seeing the pics with the new glass. :)
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(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/scenes/gourds_wm.jpg)
the 10-22mm.. not just for landscapes! ;D
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very nice!
Well, didn't get my lens today. Ordered during bus. hours (before 4pm est) on Thursday with overnight shipping. Figure process the order on Thursday. Ships on Friday, recieve on Saturday, go out of town sunday night. No dice. They waited 2 days to process the order. It went out today. I like BH return policy but they are slow pokes on getting stuff shipped. 95% of my online shopping (which is substantial), I order and it is here 3 days, maybe 4, with standard ground. This makes twice I've ordered overnight and recieved package 4 days later from them. Fuckers!
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i got the new 40D yesterday and snapped a couple of pictures with the kit lens to get familiar with the camera(wow....never thought i'd be overwhelmed by technology :o ). Although the WB is a little off, i really liked how this one came out.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/stl-taper/sidhe_2a.jpg)
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I am inline to get that camera myself...please share some thoughts on it with us if you get a minute! THANKS
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I am inline to get that camera myself...please share some thoughts on it with us if you get a minute! THANKS
well....this is my first SLR and major camera purchase so i don't have much frame of reference. I know enough about photography to have a basic understanding exposure, ISO, aperture, choosing the right glass....etc etc etc. so after thorough reading of the manual, i was able to make my way through the camera menus and settings fairly easily....but holy cow! i haven't even come close to tapping the potential of this camera. there are so many different settings and options it sort of makes my head spin.
the 3" display is quite nice but not totally accurate to actual picture you are taking. mine makes the picture look barely overexposed even at lower brightness settings, but i think that comes with the territory with LCD displays. All of my pictures looked much better once i transferred to the computer. I've read reviews that the utilizing the "live view" feature can make the camera really hot. I prefer using the viewfinder anyway so it's no big deal.
the build quality is great! very solid piece of gear. the big improvement that the folks on fred miranda mention all the time is the Auto Focus. They say it's much better than the 20/30d and rebels. but like i said i have no frame of reference so i can't compare. It is nice though, but there were certain circumstances i chose to go with the manual focus to get it just right. I think that's pretty common among all cameras because if the auto focus was perfect.....nobody would ever buy anything other than point and shoots :)
i know...not the best review....but that's really all i can comment on at the moment.
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Thanks alot for the quick response!
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I appreciate the review...just picked this camera (40d) up yesterday and so far I don't know what to say...pretty blown away by it!!!
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I appreciate the review...just picked this camera (40d) up yesterday and so far I don't know what to say...pretty blown away by it!!!
awesome! you're going to love that camera. it's really nice. i currently don't have photoshop, but after working on pictures with the canon software, it's helped me choose better settings when i take the pictures. it's been a great learning experience so far.
here's one of the better shots i took my first time out with the 50mm f/1.4
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/stl-taper/Madahoochi%202007-11-01/madahoochi2007-11-0104.jpg)
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Nice shot bro! I can't wait to learn a little more about it. I am new to "real" camera's, but it's in my blood. My father, grandfather, and Uncles are all photographers...I am lookin' 2 learn
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Thoughts?
(http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/8945/18962261371eb9c46df2brp5.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/1896226137/)
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i really like the maroonish-brown color you got, but don't feel qualified to really comment on much else without sounding like a jackass.
it seems dark(underexposed? i am looking on a crappy lcd monitor though so take it with a grain of salt) and i can't really tell what's dripping from the cork....wax i'm guessing?
but yeah....i like the color a lot.
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i really like the maroonish-brown color you got, but don't feel qualified to really comment on much else without sounding like a jackass.
it seems dark(underexposed? i am looking on a crappy lcd monitor though so take it with a grain of salt) and i can't really tell what's dripping from the cork....wax i'm guessing?
but yeah....i like the color a lot.
just to show you differences in perspective.. Im not crazy about the colour. I also think the exposure is fine, however it is obvious there is just not enough light to begin with. Also, I had a hard time (off the bat) telling just what the image was, allthough knowing does improve the image. hmm.. If you were to shoot over again, I'd say move up a stop so that a wee bit more of the bottle neck is in "focus" and add a bit more external light. Overall, I kinda like it..
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i really like the maroonish-brown color you got, but don't feel qualified to really comment on much else without sounding like a jackass.
it seems dark(underexposed? i am looking on a crappy lcd monitor though so take it with a grain of salt) and i can't really tell what's dripping from the cork....wax i'm guessing?
but yeah....i like the color a lot.
just to show you differences in perspective.. Im not crazy about the colour. I also think the exposure is fine, however it is obvious there is just not enough light to begin with. Also, I had a hard time (off the bat) telling just what the image was, allthough knowing does improve the image. hmm.. If you were to shoot over again, I'd say move up a stop so that a wee bit more of the bottle neck is in "focus" and add a bit more external light. Overall, I kinda like it..
+t for a better critique and another in 12 for the willow avatar :) val kilmer's best movie....evah! i must have watched that movie every other day when i was a kid. such a great underrated 80's fantasy movie.
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Thanks guys. +Ts to you both.
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Thoughts?
Ryan
also, Im not sure what equipment you have..but experiment a little with the flash...try turning the camera upside down when you take the pic, and make sure the flash if diffused, but it SHOULD give you a little reflection on the drop, which will greatly affect the image. i agree that the stop should be bumped up a little. I like the lighting, especially back lit like that, thats why i think a very diffuse flash for the drop may be very effective. If the flash fills to much and ruins the type of light you had...try a small beam flash light at very close range pointed at the drop... just something to get a nice reflection...
however...in doing this, it might look a tad weird as you will have a backlight for the main light, and the reflection will be "off"...so you might want to experiment with the light source (left and behind) so it is barely picked up by the shot.
all in all ...i like the idea...keep experimenting!
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Thoughts?
In my experience, if you think you're on to something, you probably are. Keep at it.
Just for kicks (not to mention I've been sick with the flu and have time to kill) I messed around with that photo last night and ended up with these. As you can see, I took a different approach. Tacky, huh?
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x76/JCFRANK/oldrippy3.jpg)
"Detail"
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x76/JCFRANK/oldrippy2.jpg)
The Acid House Remix?
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x76/JCFRANK/oldrippy1.jpg)
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More from me.
Mike Doughty in Louisville last night.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2349/1973206641_850b7ea0b1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/1973206641/in/set-72157603099065639/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2217/1973334419_c02433c715.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/1973334419/in/set-72157603099065639/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2028/1974133336_c3803428c9.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/1974133336/in/set-72157603099065639/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2249/1973193917_a1bc587c39.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/1973193917/in/set-72157603099065639/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2039/1973284185_88a7b08b91.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/1973284185/in/set-72157603099065639/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2318/1974051414_ba413ab767.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/1974051414/in/set-72157603099065639/)
The rest:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/sets/72157603099065639/
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considering you had to compete with the heads of the of people in the front row, those are some nice shots! I like the one of the cello player reading the sheet because of how that one female audience member is also in focus.
looks like a nice venue too.
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went out at sunrise earlier this morning, down to the valley, for some shots. Here are 3 different sunrise shots from 3 different locations I've been half-ass scouting around for this, so here are some resized example.
Which one/s do you like and why or dislike and why. I'm kinda on a deadline to get a bunch of landscapes into this gallery in the next 2 weeks and I need more material. Sunrises I lack, I tend to want to sleep in.
The third pic is noisy (I can fix) but I didn't feel like any more editing at this moment.
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i like the first picture because i think it gives the sense of a sunrise the most. in other words, it looks the most like the morning of the three pictures. the other 2 seem draw my focus to the clouds and not necessarily the sunrise.
[possibly completely stupid comment]
the last two pictures, to me, give the feel of a sunset. i realize both "look" the same, but a sunset doesn't have the same "feel" as a sunrise. Because of the ridge line(how dark it is) and clouds of the last two pictures, it just feels like the sun is going down. the color of the landscape from the light of the sun in the first picture gives the sense that a new day is starting. does that make any sense?
[/possibly completely stupid comment]
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went out at sunrise earlier this morning, down to the valley, for some shots. Here are 3 different sunrise shots from 3 different locations I've been half-ass scouting around for this, so here are some resized example.
Which one/s do you like and why or dislike and why. I'm kinda on a deadline to get a bunch of landscapes into this gallery in the next 2 weeks and I need more material. Sunrises I lack, I tend to want to sleep in.
The third pic is noisy (I can fix) but I didn't feel like any more editing at this moment.
I think the 3rd is the most nicely composed. Try cropping some of the land off the bottom and tweaking the curves and saturation. I spent about a minute doing this, and I wanted you to see how the curve is shaped. The "curves" tool is probably the most powerful tool for exposure control. It can be confusing at first, but becomes intuitive over time.
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x76/JCFRANK/curves.jpg)
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frank - just for my own benefit, explain why you think the 3rd pic has the best composition. i'm still trying to get better about critiquing composition in my own pictures
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Thanks for the feedback, from both of ya'll. Frank, I agree about the cropping. Just needed to hear it from someone else. I'll go back in PS and do that. I'll also take a look a the curves tools. Brian, I like number 1 too. I'll probably get both of these printed.
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I agree with Frank and like the 3rd the best.
I also love the 1st one. Try cropping some of the land, right up to where the fence's bottom is, then crop some of the sky out to make it look like a panoramic. Then work with the curves or saturation to bring out some of those reds.
If you can't quite get the blue in the sky of the first one right with the curves as Frank showed you, since they are a bit tricky, what you can do is drop the temperature down and bring the saturation up, this will make the blues pop out quite nicely.
Ryan, for the wine bottle I have some suggestions for you. When we shot liquids or drinks we always made sure that we had a light source reflecting through the glass. So in order to maintain your current composition of the photo, which I really like, I would suggest getting some sort of high watt bulb either shining through the bottom of the bottle or on the side enough to make it more translucent. If you can dettach your flash or have a strobe available I would place it higher than the camera and to the right. The combination if independently lighting the bottle and having secondary light source which is not from the position your camera is at will go a long way. The effect I assume will appear something like light coming through a window if you get it right. Experiment with your exposure and f stops by using a tripod.
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I agree with Frank and like the 3rd the best.
I also love the 1st one. Try cropping some of the land, right up to where the fence's bottom is, then crop some of the sky out to make it look like a panoramic. Then work with the curves or saturation to bring out some of those reds.
If you can't quite get the blue in the sky of the first one right with the curves as Frank showed you, since they are a bit tricky, what you can do is drop the temperature down and bring the saturation up, this will make the blues pop out quite nicely.
ha! we were thinking alike. I did exactly that just now in pic 1 and am currently uploading to mpix for some prints. ;D
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frank - just for my own benefit, explain why you think the 3rd pic has the best composition. i'm still trying to get better about critiquing composition in my own pictures
Uh... just because? ;)
Good composition is like pornography, I don't know how to define it, but I know it when I see it.
Basically though, the sun is framed by the curve of the hill and the pattern of the clouds seems to be rolling away from the rising sun. It just seems to work. Also, it's the sky that grabs your attention. In the first shot for example, there's really nothing that catches the viewer's eye. The second one is nice, but the gap of clear sky between the land and the clouds seems to hurt it a little. Also, I think it would be nicer if the the sun was closer to the left side of the frame, with the hill sloping downward and away.
These are just my opinions, so please take them with a grain of salt.
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thanks for the response. it's much appreciated.
i guess i just let the color of the first picture win me over without any regard to composition.
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+T to the page.
Great advice Sanjay.
I'll see if I can replicate the shot at some point and use your advice. At the time it was an "oh shit, the wine is dripping everywhere" moment that turned into "ohhhh I better grab the camera."
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Not directly related to landscapes but I was shooting some Senior photos a few weeks ago for a friend's daughter and thought I'd share..
(http://www.imagelume.com/proofing/Senior%20Shoot%202007/images/20071103_senior_shoot_0318.jpg)
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Not directly related to landscapes but I was shooting some Senior photos a few weeks ago for a friend's daughter and thought I'd share..
Very nice work, background included. She and her parents will be pleased!
With all due respect, my only comment would be to see what happens if you dodge the catch light in her eyes a little (or just fake it and paint it in).
FWIW, I started messing with the Imagenomic Portraiture plug-in and it truly is amazing. The sample images on their website aren't BS.
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Not directly related to landscapes but I was shooting some Senior photos a few weeks ago for a friend's daughter and thought I'd share..
Very nice work, background included. She and her parents will be pleased!
With all due respect, my only comment would be to see what happens if you dodge the catch light in her eyes a little (or just fake it and paint it in).
FWIW, I started messing with the Imagenomic Portraiture plug-in and it truly is amazing. The sample images on their website aren't BS.
She is a cute girl and pretty photogenic so it was fun for me being able to focus on composition and lighting. I have not really done any post processing, just a quick exposure adjustment and bumped saturation a bit. I'll probably lighten up her eyes and teeth when i go to print the image.
The Portraiture plugin is really cool I've played around with it a bit, I went ahead and bought the Imagenomic "package". I'm not always a big fan of that highly processed skin look for portraits so have not done to much with it. I probably should try it out as an adjustment layer and drop the opacity down to better control how aggressive the effect is.
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She is a cute girl and pretty photogenic so it was fun for me being able to focus on composition and lighting. I have not really done any post processing, just a quick exposure adjustment and bumped saturation a bit. I'll probably lighten up her eyes and teeth when i go to print the image.
The Portraiture plugin is really cool I've played around with it a bit, I went ahead and bought the Imagenomic "package". I'm not always a big fan of that highly processed skin look for portraits so have not done to much with it. I probably should try it out as an adjustment layer and drop the opacity down to better control how aggressive the effect is.
Yes, it produces almost surreal images when the smoothing effect is applied liberally. The pictures below started as an extreme crop of a crummy snapshot taken in poor lighting (end of disclaimer).
These are over the top, but that was the idea. Another effect I tried was to create a copy of a layer, hit it with a big Gaussian blur (radius ~50 pixels). Change the layer mode to "screen" and then turn down its opacity to about 30%. It creates a nice glowing effect. Then use the eraser tool to remove the blurred areas over the subject's lips and eyes. I've never done this kind of stuff before but I'm looking forward to improving.
Edit: BTW, check out the pearly-whites. Who needs Crest with whitening power when you have the sponge and dodge tools?
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x76/JCFRANK/glamour.jpg)
Vogue, here I come! ::)
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x76/JCFRANK/closeuphighkey.jpg)
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Here is one of my latest..fooling around with dark shots. C & C welcome..esp parts about what you would do in ps with this shot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/razorback/GuitarBindings1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/razorback/GuitarBindings2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/razorback/GuitarBindings.jpg)
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Here is one of my latest..fooling around with dark shots. C & C welcome..esp parts about what you would do in ps with this shot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/razorback/GuitarBindings1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/razorback/GuitarBindings2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/razorback/GuitarBindings.jpg)
ohhhhhh, I like numero uno ;D
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thanx buff..that is my fav of the bunch too. I tried a red light on #3, but I couldn't quite get it to do what I wanted. I went ahead and posted a shot...but the other two REALLY look much better to me.
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I like em.
I took #1, threw it into photoshop, applied the neon glow filter for blue (but you can pick any color), and brightened it up a bit. Turned the picture into a two tone outline and background of the guitar. I thought it was cool looking, almost like a logo or a t shirt design. Blurring the lines of photography and graphic design, but might be something to fool around with.
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I like em.
I took #1, threw it into photoshop, applied the neon glow filter for blue (but you can pick any color), and brightened it up a bit. Turned the picture into a two tone outline and background of the guitar. I thought it was cool looking, almost like a logo or a t shirt design. Blurring the lines of photography and graphic design, but might be something to fool around with.
mind posting it? i would love to see it. I'm not much on ps yet..
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+T as a fellow Tak player!
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Here is one of my latest..fooling around with dark shots. C & C welcome..esp parts about what you would do in ps with this shot.
I used the "glowing" effect I mentioned in another post, and then dodged the area at the bottom of the picture to reveal the shadow of the tuners. Then I applied a curve to lighten everything up. Quick and dirty. It's starting to show some artifacts, but you get the idea.
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x76/JCFRANK/GuitarBindings1copy.jpg)
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+T as a fellow Tak player!
backatya! I have the Takamine for acoustic, and an hollowbody Ibanez, and japanese Strat for electric. I REALLY want a hollow body PRS, but don't know that I will ever get that one.
you can tell in the pic that frank did, that the Tak is quite old now and been through alot with me. I bought it brand new in 1993, hasn't left my side since. It's the ONLY guitar that I haven't traded/sold along the way. I've had to have the frets redone twice(maybe strings were too heavy or i push to hard?) and a few minor adjustments, but it still sounds great!
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Well, some of my pics from the other night got featured on Mike Doughty's blog.
http://www.mikedoughty.com/blog/archives/000707.html
Pretty pumped.
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that's cool ryan.
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Well, some of my pics from the other night got featured on Mike Doughty's blog.
http://www.mikedoughty.com/blog/archives/000707.html
Pretty pumped.
congrats!
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Do any of you guys have acct's on FredMiranda.com? My guitar photo made the finals of this weeks contest. If you happen to look at them, and feel like casting a vote my way, it would be appreciated ;D if not mine..then vote for someone..those guys are good!!!
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Do any of you guys have acct's on FredMiranda.com? My guitar photo made the finals of this weeks contest. If you happen to look at them, and feel like casting a vote my way, it would be appreciated ;D if not mine..then vote for someone..those guys are good!!!
I've got an account. I'll check it out.
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the codetalkers with bobby lee!
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/The%20Codetalkers%2011-16-07/IMG_4307.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/The%20Codetalkers%2011-16-07/IMG_4321.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/The%20Codetalkers%2011-16-07/IMG_4388.jpg)
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sweet! +t
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Last night's José González show. Amazing performance, not my best night with the camera though. Particularly tough place to shoot. Nice venue though.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2006/2080260396_10e1c380a0.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/2080260396/in/set-72157603353551663/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2007/2079475591_06ddac0691.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/2079475591/in/set-72157603353551663/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2282/2079476893_b1ad475d6f.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/2079476893/in/set-72157603353551663/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2416/2080263726_e4a3edcb10.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/2080263726/in/set-72157603353551663/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2052/2080265584_a89da48ce3.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/2080265584/in/set-72157603353551663/)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2151/2079480623_10176ffcce.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/2079480623/in/set-72157603353551663/)
And from the opener's set. Guy/band was Cass McCombs. Didn't like 'em. Like this shot though.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2081/2079478623_be990d86b6.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryan-sims/2079478623/in/set-72157603353551663/)
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Ryan, those look great! nice shots.
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Thank you!
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well, out on quite a hike today to shoot a waterfall I haven't been to in about 4 years. Horsepound Falls in Collins Gulf, at Savage Gulf State Park. About a 2.5 mile hike of rockhopping down a rugged trail, dropping about 800' in elevation. The falls are unique in that it rushes over the side and disappears underground, only to reappear further "downstream" or rather down the dry bed. Here I was at the base of the falls with the water disappearing at my feet. Lens was a Tokina 12-24 ATX, iso 100, f22, shutter speed of 1.3", 12mm. Have some other ones but I really liked this particular one. No cropping, just some minor tweaks.
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well, out on quite a hike today to shoot a waterfall I haven't been to in about 4 years. Horsepound Falls in Collins Gulf, at Savage Gulf State Park. About a 2.5 mile hike of rockhopping down a rugged trail, dropping about 800' in elevation. The falls are unique in that it rushes over the side and disappears underground, only to reappear further "downstream" or rather down the dry bed. Here I was at the base of the falls with the water disappearing at my feet. Lens was a Tokina 12-24 ATX, iso 100, f22, shutter speed of 1.3", 12mm. Have some other ones but I really liked this particular one. No cropping, just some minor tweaks.
Nice! I've always wanted to shoot a waterfall... thinking about it just the other day in fact.
That place is definitely worth another trip at peak lighting, but it's probably a small window of opportunity considering the relative elevation. Nature photographers make that part look so easy, don't they?
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thanks. :) Would like to go back in late spring when the greens are out for some color in the background. Sky was nasty and overcast all day yesterday so it gave nice neutral lighting. If the sky was nice and blue, I would only be able to catch it at the right time for the contrast and for proper exposure on the waterfall. Difficult for sure. Would be better to do this again I think on an overnight expedition, I have a feeling that morinings would be great here when the sun is up, sky is blue, but the direct sunlight has not reached the valley floor yet.
Lots of waterfalls in this area of Tennessee. Been a big drought since summer so no sense until now to get back out shooting those. Does take all day however as some of these falls are rather remote and take alot of hiking. Hiking out of this one was a bitch, 2.5miles of switchbacks, rockhopping, and going up.
Here's another perspective, from the side of the falls. You can see at the base where the pool is and disappears. The log/tree sticking straight out was lodged up under the waterfall sticking out. I have no idea the amount of force that would make it lodge in the side of the cliff as it is a good 25' off the ground.
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Here's one more for some size comparison. My brother in law is standing at the top of the falls shooting me shooting him.
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Since you didn't mess around with these, I couldn't help but try these crops. (I tweaked the curves as well.)
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x76/JCFRANK/008resize_tweaked.jpg)
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x76/JCFRANK/008resize_crop.jpg)
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any 5d users here besides mmmatt? I've read all the reviews on fredmiranda and talked to other folks. Been thinking about an upgrade to a 40d but now thinking why not make the jump to a full frame sensor w/ 12.8mp. Yes, quite a bit more money, however, I can get a new one for an screaming deal from my bro-in-law out in LA. I figure, sell my body along with the 12-24 i will no longer need going to a full frame, the jump could be rather painless in the not so distant future.
Anyone with hands on experience?
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any 5d users here besides mmmatt? I've read all the reviews on fredmiranda and talked to other folks. Been thinking about an upgrade to a 40d but now thinking why not make the jump to a full frame sensor w/ 12.8mp. Yes, quite a bit more money, however, I can get a new one for an screaming deal from my bro-in-law out in LA. I figure, sell my body along with the 12-24 i will no longer need going to a full frame, the jump could be rather painless in the not so distant future.
Anyone with hands on experience?
If you have the money, I'd go for the 5D. As someone with a 30d who will eventually upgrade, I wish I had just bought one from the start. Also, is that 12-24 an EFS lens, if not, I'd keep it, 12-24 on a full frame will be freakin' awesome for certain occasions (one of the main reasons I'd get a 5D in the first place, heh).
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any 5d users here besides mmmatt? I've read all the reviews on fredmiranda and talked to other folks. Been thinking about an upgrade to a 40d but now thinking why not make the jump to a full frame sensor w/ 12.8mp. Yes, quite a bit more money, however, I can get a new one for an screaming deal from my bro-in-law out in LA. I figure, sell my body along with the 12-24 i will no longer need going to a full frame, the jump could be rather painless in the not so distant future.
Anyone with hands on experience?
If you have the money, I'd go for the 5D. As someone with a 30d who will eventually upgrade, I wish I had just bought one from the start. Also, is that 12-24 an EFS lens, if not, I'd keep it, 12-24 on a full frame will be freakin' awesome for certain occasions (one of the main reasons I'd get a 5D in the first place, heh).
The 12-24 is the Tokina ATX, it is an efs lens so it will go. Sucks too because that lens is tack fucking sharp and the color contrast is amazing. I highly recommend it for anyone that needs a superwide on a canon crop sensor back. Shooting an old 20d that I scored with less than 1000 actuations. Only about 7000 on it now so it is still basically new. Fantastic body as is even for the age but I'm starting to get in situations where I need to have prints really big where the limitations may be come apparent, especially with cropping. And of course the real reason, which is I like pro gear cause I'm a helpless slut :P (there, said it)
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Anyone with hands on experience?
I bought a 5D two months ago now right after the price dropped. I think I paid just under 2100$. If you can afford it, and you have the chance at a good deal, I wouldn't hesitate. Low light photography shooting at 1600 with the 5D still looks amazing.
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any 5d users here besides mmmatt? I've read all the reviews on fredmiranda and talked to other folks. Been thinking about an upgrade to a 40d but now thinking why not make the jump to a full frame sensor w/ 12.8mp. Yes, quite a bit more money, however, I can get a new one for an screaming deal from my bro-in-law out in LA. I figure, sell my body along with the 12-24 i will no longer need going to a full frame, the jump could be rather painless in the not so distant future.
Anyone with hands on experience?
My wife is a professional photographer and she has the 5D and shoots concerts now (just started and has only shot 5 so far)...here is what she says:
If you have the $$ go 5D the colors that come out of the full frame sensor are amazing. It is also better at the higher ISOs which you need. You can even go up to 3200 by using a special setting and going to H on the ISO. But also look at the Ignamic (spelling) Noisewear it is worth its weight in gold. For concerts I like to shoot wide many times and you really need the full frame sensor to take advantage of the wide lens also you can get the 50 1.4 for cheap as well as the 28 1.8 each for under $400 each and both are sharp as you will get without getting L lens - the nice thing about having the primes is you have the wider aperture and when you are shooting in low light it is great to really open up the lens and shoot. Right now you can get it at Costco for dirt cheap and at BH photo for around 2K. There are rumors that Cannon will be releasing a new version of the 5D and I am excited about what they are going to do with the ISOs and noise especially after the Nikon 3D release which is just unreal.
I just shared with her this site and will be on soon. Let me know if you have any questions.
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any 5d users here besides mmmatt? I've read all the reviews on fredmiranda and talked to other folks. Been thinking about an upgrade to a 40d but now thinking why not make the jump to a full frame sensor w/ 12.8mp. Yes, quite a bit more money, however, I can get a new one for an screaming deal from my bro-in-law out in LA. I figure, sell my body along with the 12-24 i will no longer need going to a full frame, the jump could be rather painless in the not so distant future.
Anyone with hands on experience?
My wife is a professional photographer and she has the 5D and shoots concerts now (just started and has only shot 5 so far)...here is what she says:
If you have the $$ go 5D the colors that come out of the full frame sensor are amazing. It is also better at the higher ISOs which you need. You can even go up to 3200 by using a special setting and going to H on the ISO. But also look at the Ignamic (spelling) Noisewear it is worth its weight in gold. For concerts I like to shoot wide many times and you really need the full frame sensor to take advantage of the wide lens also you can get the 50 1.4 for cheap as well as the 28 1.8 each for under $400 each and both are sharp as you will get without getting L lens - the nice thing about having the primes is you have the wider aperture and when you are shooting in low light it is great to really open up the lens and shoot. Right now you can get it at Costco for dirt cheap and at BH photo for around 2K. There are rumors that Cannon will be releasing a new version of the 5D and I am excited about what they are going to do with the ISOs and noise especially after the Nikon 3D release which is just unreal.
I just shared with her this site and will be on soon. Let me know if you have any questions.
I've got the L glass covered and my wides. The 20d I shoot also goes to iso 3200, though it is extremely noisy. Thank god for noiseware, that thing works like a charm. Pretty much made up my mind to get one, just have to save some coin. Just looking for some hands on experience from some folks on here as opposed to all the reviews I've read. Think my mind is made up :)
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Here's one I'm happy with. This is gonna get printed and framed for sale. Lot of demand in the area for this landmark, I've sold several of these from a little different angle and the sun setting behind it. This one is shot on a 30d at iso 200, 30 second shutter speed at f8.0 on a sigma ex dg 24-70 on the 28th of December at around 9:30 at night. The fog had just rolled through which left a little mist which gave the setting a little eery type of look.
The resize:
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excellent shot! good color variation for so late in the season!
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excellent shot! good color variation for so late in the season!
Thanks BJ. :) The leaves seem to stay on some of the lower branches. Wind can't get to them and knock em off I guess :-\ I was suprised with the color myself. The long exposure helped as with the lighting. All I did was boost the saturation a bit. I shot that cross 6 days earlier at dusk and the lack of colors had me thinking I shot BW at first.
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Honestly, I would do a limited # of prints. I think you could make some money based on the theme alone. then add in the "limited" and print. why sell once, what you can sell 500 times? :P
I am assuming it is a known landmark in the area? if so..I think you are golden. Go to some churches in the area, tell them about the prints, and let them know you will donate 25% back to each church. if you sell 500...the churches get some money, and you get more! It might only take one larger church...I don't know your area that well..but here..it would go quickly.
500 at 25$ = 12500. minus your printing of 8$/print(guess?) = 8500 - the 25% donation (3125) and you are still at $5300+
think big!!! >:D
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shit, I sell my prints for much more than $25 ;D Of course they are matted and framed. The offer for the church think is a great idea, by the way. I may have to try that. +t for that suggestion. I've thought about doing numbered prints but seeing as how few of each prints I do sell, they all are limited. I may try a numbered print thing at some time and see if that makes a difference. Just really getting into the selling part, the gallery deal. In two galleries at the moment and just trying to get enough stuff together for this other gallery. The problem is finding what sells and what doesn't and going from there. Feedback from customers is great because often times they tell me what they are looking for or what they like. I've already been commissioned for a companion piece of one of my summer landscapes, done at the same place this winter when there is snow on the ground. The image above is one I'm hoping to sell to that particular client as well.
BJ, I finally getting a bit of time to try and get this up and going. The audio production business is slow this time of year and my other jobs are not quite as demanding though do take up a vast amount of time. Currently working 4 jobs if you include this so it comes in bits and spurts. I did finally get my webpage built, if you interested in looking at it. http://www.jpbuffington.com (http://www.jpbuffington.com) Definitly not finished and the slideshow was just a few images that I had at hand when I built it but I'm happy for my first attempt at web design.
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the 25$ was just a number pulled from the air for easy calculation ;) i have never tried to sell prints..so I have no clue what they sell for. it was more of an idea, not the figures so much, they were just there for support 8).
site is looking good! get some pics up!!! mwahah :-*
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the 25$ was just a number pulled from the air for easy calculation ;) i have never tried to sell prints..so I have no clue what they sell for. it was more of an idea, not the figures so much, they were just there for support 8).
site is looking good! get some pics up!!! mwahah :-*
I was just teasing you. Hell, I'm probably too cheap. I had a local artist who I'm friends with persuade me to up my prices. He gave me some good insight and broke it down realistically. It's hard trying to put value on your own stuff, or at least for me. I tend to want to sell myself short. I even do this catering. I've got to make myself charge a higher price than I think is fair. It usually turns out to still be a bargain for the client.
Yes, I need to get some more pics up. Maybe the next few days I'll work on that. Maybe tonight.
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that is a beautiful shot man!!!
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The 20d I shoot also goes to iso 3200, though it is extremely noisy.
I thought it only did 1600? At least that's the highest I've noticed on mine. Did you hack the firmware or something?
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The 20d I shoot also goes to iso 3200, though it is extremely noisy.
I thought it only did 1600? At least that's the highest I've noticed on mine. Did you hack the firmware or something?
The next setting past 1600 is "H" which is 3200. In your menu, go to Custom Functions. Function 8 is ISO Expansion. Turn it on. Then, when adjusting your iso normally, just click up one more past 1600 and it will say "H" (for high iso I guess) which is iso 3200. Fair warning though, the pics are extremely noisy. However, with noiseware applied to said images, noise is completely eliminated. I use iso 3200 for shows when it is really dark or really lacking stage lighting. Not optimal but does the trick.
that is a beautiful shot man!!!
Thank you very much! :)
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Here is a shot i took this morning. I don't think it was my best one, but the first I opened. We will see :P
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Very nice BJ! Glad to see someone up before sunrise to capture the sunrises. Always make for a good day. I might even have to get up tomorrow morning early. ;D
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(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/Indian%20River%20-%20Fishing%20-%20Jensen%20Beach%20FLA%20%202008/IMG_4877.jpg)
yep, that canon efs 10-22mm *still* rocks!
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Here is a shot i took this morning. I don't think it was my best one, but the first I opened. We will see :P
first time back to this thread in a while.. great shot!! :D
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^^Yes it does ;D That just takes you straight into the lake. Great shot, eric.
Nice thread bump. My favorite.
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^^Yes it does ;D That just takes you straight into the lake. Great shot, eric.
Nice thread bump. My favorite.
+t stir! got to use the 10-22 at sawgrass a few days ago.. http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,63308.msg1358260.html#msg1358260 (http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,63308.msg1358260.html#msg1358260)
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backatcha you lucky bastard! Would LOVE to play Sawgrass. I'm ready to play around next week. Time to break out the clubs and bring the cam. Got just the course to play on.
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Hey now!
I've just joined the Canon DSLR club! So is this "Team Canon DSLR" :laugh:
I haven't done any concert photog yet with the dslr, but I may try it out next week. I'll most likely bring the Canon 85mm f/1.8.
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finally got out and shot today. Not much really going on, just crusing through the park with the family. Here is one i threw togethor real quick to post. (i'll spare you the many many shots of my son ;) )
(http://www.y1konline.com/images/Well.jpg)
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finally got out and shot today. Not much really going on, just crusing through the park with the family. Here is one i threw togethor real quick to post. (i'll spare you the many many shots of my son ;) )
well that's a great shot!
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going through some unprocessed landscapes and this one caught my eye. I like it, but it has no significance (at this time) to print and sell. Thought I would post it. Driving down the road on a misty late afternoon/early evening in mid march. This is the lower spillway below the Big Fiery Gizzard Resevoir and the mist was just starting to float over the water and it had an eery cold bluish tone that was captured on this 6 second exposure.
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That's sweet, Jon!
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That's sweet, Jon!
Thanks Ryan :)
A little dark on the exposure I know, but, when boosted it just doesn't look right. It was dark and gloomy with that eery calm settling down. Ya'll know those type of evenings, after a hard all day rain with the threat of another storm looming. Anyways, I had forgotten about this and it was a little surprise that I opened up in Bridge.
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going through some unprocessed landscapes and this one caught my eye. I like it, but it has no significance (at this time) to print and sell. Thought I would post it. Driving down the road on a misty late afternoon/early evening in mid march. This is the lower spillway below the Big Fiery Gizzard Resevoir and the mist was just starting to float over the water and it had an eery cold bluish tone that was captured on this 6 second exposure.
Neat place, cool shot.
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I'm officially on Team Canon Digital SLR...the starting rig:
Canon Rebel XTi
EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 (came with camera)
EF 50mm f/1.8
EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
Lowepro Slingshot 100AW
Now, I just need to figure out what all the buttons mean. Many thanks to this thread for getting me started on what could be another addiction!
--Michael
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Many thanks to this thread for getting me started on what could be another addiction!
. . . will be. . . ;D ;D
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Many thanks to this thread for getting me started on what could be another addiction!
. . . will be. . . ;D ;D
I think you are right. Two of the lenses on my list above are still in UPS transit, and I'm thinking that I need a telephoto. I mean, no kit is complete without one, right? (<- argument to wife)
Are the expensive ones twice as good in the hands of a newb? Let's just say that I want to take pictures of a small child playing soccer from the sidelines...
EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM ~ $549.00
EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM ~ $1,190.00
EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM ~ $1,100.00 (mis-type)
Others I should put in my list?
Patriotically stimulating the US economy,
Michael
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Many thanks to this thread for getting me started on what could be another addiction!
. . . will be. . . ;D ;D
I think you are right. Two of the lenses on my list above are still in UPS transit, and I'm thinking that I need a telephoto. I mean, no kit is complete without one, right? (<- argument to wife)
Are the expensive ones twice as good in the hands of a newb? Let's just say that I want to take pictures of a small child playing soccer from the sidelines...
EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM ~ $549.00
EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM ~ $1,190.00
EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM ~ $1,100.00
Others I should put in my list?
Patriotically stimulating the US economy,
Michael
a 70-200 2.8 IS for $1100?
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Many thanks to this thread for getting me started on what could be another addiction!
. . . will be. . . ;D ;D
I think you are right. Two of the lenses on my list above are still in UPS transit, and I'm thinking that I need a telephoto. I mean, no kit is complete without one, right? (<- argument to wife)
Are the expensive ones twice as good in the hands of a newb? Let's just say that I want to take pictures of a small child playing soccer from the sidelines...
EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM ~ $549.00
EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM ~ $1,190.00
EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM ~ $1,100.00
Others I should put in my list?
Patriotically stimulating the US economy,
Michael
a 70-200 2.8 IS for $1100?
Whoa. You are right. I read and typed that wrong. It's off the list. I'm not that economically stimulating.
--Michael
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Check out the 70-200 f4 IS, great for outdoors, kids sports, etc., that'll be in 1k range, else get the 70-200 2.8 w/o IS which would also help you indoors with low light. Better to have the constant 2.8 or 4.0 aperture throughout the zoom. Or if you want to stay in the $500 range, just get the 70-200 f4 w/o the IS. "L" quality is always a good thing ;D Invest is good glass, you should only have to buy that once.
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Yeah, I'd always try for L glass when you have the opportunity, even if its more, you usually won't be disappointed and you'll probably never need to replace that lens.
On the other hand, I need to get rid of my 17-40mm f/4L and find something wider and a bit sharper.
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That pic on the past page of mine was made with a 12-24ATX f4 Tokina. Very wide (on a crop sensor) and is tack sharp. Easily as sharp as alot of L glass out there. I was super impressed with it. To bad Tokina doesn't make a 16-35 for a full frame :P
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Here's Taperssection.com equivalent for Canon users. Definitely check this site out, you'll be hooked in no time ;D
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/
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I used to hang out here a lot back in the day, don't know what its like now, but they used to be very nice, just like this place. I don't have the time to internet like I used to though, so I haven't been there in almost a year probably.
http://dgrin.com/
stirinthesauce - thanks for the info on that, I'll have to look into it. It'd be nice to find something as sharp and a bit cheaper than the canon lenses in that field.
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I found my 70-200mm 2.8 lens!:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/539396-REG/Tamron_AF001C_700_70_200mm_f_2_8_Di_LD.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/539396-REG/Tamron_AF001C_700_70_200mm_f_2_8_Di_LD.html)
It just hit the shelves, so there are virtually no reviews yet. Hopefully it will get high marks like my Tamron 17-50mm 2.8 has (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/423714-REG/Tamron_AF016C700_17_50mm_f_2_8_XR_Di.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/423714-REG/Tamron_AF016C700_17_50mm_f_2_8_XR_Di.html)). Love that lens.
The cannon 70-200mm 2.8's were out of my price range and I was pondering a Sigma purchase. The Sigma lens cost $100 more than the new Tamron lens and doesn't have the best reviews either.
Just when I thought recording equipment was an expensive hobby, photography came along ;D
I do seem to be getting some use out of the photo equipment as of late, which can't be said for my audio gear unfortunately. ::)
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Like the 722's and 744's (see my sig), It's all about the white lenses or the red tipped ones :P Need some bling bling to pimp your stuff ;D
Congrats on the new toy, enjoy!
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out walking the dog this late afternoon/early evening and brought the cam along. Everything is blooming nicely. Wish I had more time to shoot. Here are a couple three from my walk.
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and one from today, went out for a bit. Cold and extremely windy. Luckily in the gulf, the wind wasn't bad. There were some dead times which was what I needed on a 1 sec exposure.
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and one from today, went out for a bit. Cold and extremely windy. Luckily in the gulf, the wind wasn't bad. There were some dead times which was what I needed on a 1 sec exposure.
Very nice! Great composition.
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and one from today, went out for a bit. Cold and extremely windy. Luckily in the gulf, the wind wasn't bad. There were some dead times which was what I needed on a 1 sec exposure.
Very nice! Great composition.
thanks. So much good beauty up here to go capture. I could spend everyday all day out doing this and never run out of places. This one I go back to on a regurlar basis as the seasons change. Went here this winter and the falls were so heavy that it was blasting spray all down the falls. Tried and tried and couldn't get a decent shot.
Interesting story about this falls. where I live is a summer resort type place where folks have been coming every summer since 1882. Well, around 1900-1905, one young dude rode his horse out to these falls. Folks would take a day trips here as the railroad at that time ran rather close. Well, this fella (his name and picture is in a book I have) was sorta the local summer dare devil type. He was on his horse on top of the falls and decided to show off to his friends down bottom swimming. He rode his horse straight off the top of the falls into the pool below. A 65'+ jump to the pool below. Fucking crazy!
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wow, that 65'! funny how a photograph can skew my perception of scale. very nice shoot indeed.
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yeah, it's a huge waterfall. Loud down bottom with that natural ampitheater behind it. Made a recording of it once. Almost like whitenoise, so monotonous.
Very nice picture of those flowers! Looks like your getting the hang of things. :)
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posted my first ever attempt at a pro sport...ugg!
Pro Cycling (http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,103797.new.html#new)
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posted my first ever attempt at a pro sport...ugg!
Pro Cycling (http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,103797.new.html#new)
Nice work. So what lens were you using? Didn't see any Exif data, wanted to get an idea of your settings. Is AI Servo the way to go with this type of shoot?
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posted my first ever attempt at a pro sport...ugg!
Pro Cycling (http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,103797.new.html#new)
Nice work. So what lens were you using? Didn't see any Exif data, wanted to get an idea of your settings. Is AI Servo the way to go with this type of shoot?
yea.that is one of the downsides of ps2 "save for the web" feature...no exif data
I did use AI servo...but my focusing needs A HUGE amount of work...im not sure if that is the way to go or not...unfortunatly...there isn't a lot of cycling around here ot go practice on :'( I used the 70-200 f2.8 IS turned on, and no tri/monopod I was shooting AI Servo with back * focus MOST of the time...i tried other ways...but never really felt like I got excellent focus...but its from lack of experience i know. The panning shots i raised my f stop from 2.8 to about 20 and tried to let the shutter stop the action on the rider, while the panning was blurring the background...the other shots where f2.8.
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I'm slow, just noticed from your sig you've got a 40D - sweet camera, eh? ;D Assuming you have that gripped?
I use AI servo shooting volleyball, also using "*" for focusing, sometimes I get it sharp, a lot of times, I don't ::) My SS are usually in the 500-640 range. I have yet to try panning.
Great job on yours though. +T at ya!
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BJ, those look nice. Good job on a obviously very demanding shoot.
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posted my first ever attempt at a pro sport...ugg!
Pro Cycling (http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,103797.new.html#new)
Cool! When I lived in Philly, I took my camera to the U.S. Pro Championship race one year and it wasn't easy. I wasted a LOT of film that day, but getting just a single cool shot made it worthwhile.
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posted my first ever attempt at a pro sport...ugg!
Pro Cycling (http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,103797.new.html#new)
Nice shots BJ!
There's a cycling race here on Friday that I'm pumped up to shoot myself.
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This was a great, informative, and nice to look at thread.
I just ordered a Canon xti/400d today and a 50mm 1.8 lens.
After trying to resist in picking up yet another multiple thousand dollar hobby/habbit on top of audio and video,
But I really want to get into SLR photography. Temptation was too great! I am excited!!!!
Now I need to find a good zoom lens that will work well in concert lighting conditions.
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This was a great, informative, and nice to look at thread.
I just ordered a Canon xti/400d today and a 50mm 1.8 lens.
After trying to resist in picking up yet another multiple thousand dollar hobby/habbit on top of audio and video,
But I really want to get into SLR photography. Temptation was too great! I am excited!!!!
Now I need to find a good zoom lens that will work well in concert lighting conditions.
Congrats and welcome to the club! You'll love the camera. Nice lens choice
to start out with as well. Depending on what type (size) shows you mostly attend, you may not need a zoom. I easily get by with the 50 and the 85 especially on a 1.6 crop body.
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Thanks!
I am excited.
Some shows I am sure I'll get by on 50mm.
I do arena shows sometimes too, so I'm going to need a zoom when i don't feel like filming.
*** Newbie question ***
I do alot of video recording, but not much more photography than P&S cams.
So, I'm trying to gauge what zoom I will need, and where the various lenses will put me, from video experience during full zoom.
I think my cam is somewhere between 30 and 40 mm with no zoom.
I get this info from googling specs for a panasonic pv-gs500:
" Leica Dicomar 12x optical zoom lens. This lens has a 43 mm diameter and a 3.3 to 39.6 mm Focal length. "
Soooo the crop factor is confusing me a little bit in trying to get an idea of what im looking for,
if it's say 40mm with 12x zoom,
then i was running somewhere between 400 and 500mm in arena nosebleed seats at max optical?
What mm lens, would that figure put me, given the 1.6 crop on the xti body?
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Soooo the crop factor is confusing me a little bit in trying to get an idea of what im looking for,
if it's say 40mm with 12x zoom,
then i was running somewhere between 400 and 500mm in arena nosebleed seats at max optical?
What mm lens, would that figure put me, given the 1.6 crop on the xti body?
A 300mm lens will put you in that range (300mm x 1.6 = 480mm equivalent).
Keep in mind, if you want to get something in that range that is suitable for low light photography (i.e. 2.8 f stop) you are talking about spending between $2,600 - $4,000, depending on if you purchase third party or canon.
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^ What he said. Also it will be very very hard to hold that steady if it doesn't have IS for that. It's a heavy lens. When I used to use one every day I gained some muscles for sure.
Your best bet is to get a 70-200mm 2.8 lens. With the 1.6% crop factor you'll have quite a bit of reach and with 10 megapixels you can afford to crop down some.
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Thanx guys.
4k is alot of cash, that one will have to wait!!
I'll prob just stick to video when i am that far away from the stage anyways, it was always the best part of nosebleed seating :)
At least I have an idea of where I will be in zoom ranges now, makes shopping alot easier.
Sanjay, I'm already drooling over the 70-200 2.8 IS L ;D think i am going to save for that one.
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wasn't there just a 70-200 2.8L IS in the yard sale for $1250? You could probably save a few hundred by not buying the IS version as well. Mine isn't IS and I usually do just fine. You just snap a lot of pictures, and sooner or later they become less shaky. Although, I haven't used mine at a concert in forever...its usually at sporting events these days and the light is better.
I don't think you'd need a 300 or a 400 unless you were planning on taking pictures from the second balcony, especially with that 1.6 crop.
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FWIW the Canon rebates started today for the 70-200 2.8 IS ($125 off) and Canoga has the cheapest price I foud.
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Thanks!
I am excited.
Some shows I am sure I'll get by on 50mm.
I do arena shows sometimes too, so I'm going to need a zoom when i don't feel like filming.
*** Newbie question ***
I do alot of video recording, but not much more photography than P&S cams.
So, I'm trying to gauge what zoom I will need, and where the various lenses will put me, from video experience during full zoom.
I think my cam is somewhere between 30 and 40 mm with no zoom.
I get this info from googling specs for a panasonic pv-gs500:
" Leica Dicomar 12x optical zoom lens. This lens has a 43 mm diameter and a 3.3 to 39.6 mm Focal length. "
Soooo the crop factor is confusing me a little bit in trying to get an idea of what im looking for,
if it's say 40mm with 12x zoom,
then i was running somewhere between 400 and 500mm in arena nosebleed seats at max optical?
What mm lens, would that figure put me, given the 1.6 crop on the xti body?
12x Zoom refers to the relative range of the zoom. 39.6mm/3.3=12. The focal length only becomes important when looking at the field of view. Camcorder sensors are much smaller than even crop factor DSLR sensors. On DSLRs 40mm is just getting in the range of a "normal" 50mm lens on a film SLR. But I'd bet on your camcorder when your lens is zoomed all the way in at 40mm it is a pretty small field of view. The math I'm coming up with is your CCD sensor is 5.4mm (1/4.7). Which makes it's 35mm crop factor something like 6. So at full wide angle your 3.3mm lens gives the field of view equivalent of a 20mm (6*3.3) film lens. And at full zoom it has a FOV roughly that of a 240mm (6*39.6)lens. Which still gives us the 12/1 zoom ratio. Make sense?
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i liked this picture, figured i would share...
its like bizarro world patriotic.
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like the picture
time to clean that sensor ;) ;D
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like the picture
time to clean that sensor ;) ;D
how do i do that?
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like the picture
time to clean that sensor ;) ;D
how do i do that?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/388983-REG/Giottos_AA1920_Rocket_Air_Blower_.html (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/388983-REG/Giottos_AA1920_Rocket_Air_Blower_.html)
Everyone needs one of these. The most used tool in my bag. Blows dust off my lens and off my sensor. I don't use the chemicals or the swabs on my sensor, ever.
To clean your sensor, take off your lens, go to your menu and select sensor clean. This will lock your mirror up. Then a few good blasts from your giottos rocket to get all that dirt off, then just turn the camera off. The mirror will drop back down. Re-attach a lens and your good to go. All in under 1 minute.
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Thanks for that, Jon. I haven't been shooting a lot lately, but my sensor definitely needs a clean.
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like the picture
time to clean that sensor ;) ;D
looks more like smudges/specs on the filter to me :P, but I am sure they both could use a good cleaning!
nice photo!
i need to get my camera out, its getting lonely
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Love my Rocket Air Blower! For the occasional stubborn dust or smudge, I use a LensPen (http://www.adorama.com/CPLPN.html?searchinfo=lenspen&item_no=3) to gently brush, or wipe, the lens - but I only have to do so very rarely.
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Just my .02
I should be getting my new lens tomorrow arriving
EF 24-70L f2.8
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Thinking of switching up my gearbag. I use a 5D and my current lens lineup is 50/1.4, 17-40/4L, 35/2, 70-200/2.8L. I am thinking of dropping the 35/2 as I rarely use it on the full frame body. I could drop others, depending on where I want to go with this.
Some possibilities:
1. 16-35/2.8L, 24-70/2.8L, and keep my 70-200/2.8L (no primes, but the 2.8 on the 5D should handle most indoor environments as well)
2. 24-105/4L IS, 100-400/4.5-5.6L IS, and maybe a 14/2.8L (slower lenses, but adds reach and IS)
3. 14/2.8L, keep the 35/2 and 50/1.4, add an 85/1.8 and keep the 70-200/2.8L (I tend to be bad at zooming "with my feet," but this would improve image quality and probably teach me to be a better photographer)
4. 17-40/4L, keep the 50/1.4, add an 85/1.8 and a 100-400/4.5-5.6L IS (zoom at the extremes, primes in the money range)
Any thoughts on the above or some other combination? I shoot nature/landscapes and urban scenes for artsy stuff and family/friend events for fun.
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like the picture
time to clean that sensor ;) ;D
how do i do that?
Definitely looks like it's on the sensor. What settings were you using for that shot? f/16, f/22? Guessing you were stopped down pretty much. This is when you notice sensor dust on your pics. Probably don't see it when you're hovering around f/2.8 - f/8
Good luck with the cleaning. I need to get one of those Rocket blowers, too. Thanks for the link.
Cool shot, nonetheless.
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thanks guys!
big thanks for the lesson too, jon. :)
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Brian, that lens pen looks cool. I think I will pick one up for the gear bag.
MattD, I like your option #1. This mimics mine (except I'm on the hunt for a 17-40L as I sold my last super wide). The canon L glass is tack sharp. Only if I was doing studio portraits do I think I would keep primes in my bag. For the field stuff, 3 lenses is more than enough gear to lug around and looks like the superwide, mid and mid-long zooms cover 90% of the needs. I have found though, that the 70-200 is a bit short now on a full frame. Would love to pick up a true long range zoom but now thinking I may just get a canon 2x extender. The times I would need it, I would be using a tripod or monopod so hand shake wouldn't be an issue. Plus, as rare as I need the extra distance, I can't seem to justify the several k drop in coin for the most potentially unused lens in the arsenal.
just my .000002. I'm sure there are prime fans here that would think my suggestions are ludicrous ;D
thanks guys!
big thanks for the lesson too, jon. :)
no problem
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Double post file but, here is one for the B&W fans.
Been playing around with some older files and converting to black and white. This one I finally got to, 4 months later. It is Natural Bridge, here in Sewanee, TN about 10 miles from my house. Cold dreary morning but the sun came out about 15 minutes after I left. Got there just in time before the shadows reeked havoc on me.
Oh, to add, you have to walk across the top of that to get to the bottom where I shot from. ;D
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Nice, cool shot. There's a natural bridge near Payson, AZ that we used to go to when we lived out there.
Do you have the raw, looks a little dark. Maybe it's just my monitor as I'm on my old linux box right now.
Prime fan here, 50, 85, 135 ;D
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Looks fine on my monitor, and it's calibrated. Disclaimer though, I tend to be a fan of "underexposed" shots. Just my preference, and it shows in my work. Though, I use the term "underexposed" loosely. It was a dreary dark morning and I wanted that conveyed onto the winter scenescape.
Thanks for the kind words.
Figured there were some prime fans here ;) All primes on my ae-1, 35, 50, 100.
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much better on this monitor.
yeah, I kind of took a liking to primes. Actually the only zoom I have is the 17-40. You'll love that lens! Next lens will probably be the 70-200 f/4.
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much better on this monitor.
yeah, I kind of took a liking to primes. Actually the only zoom I have is the 17-40. You'll love that lens! Next lens will probably be the 70-200 f/4.
When I went full frame, I sold my tokina 12-24 ATX f4. That lens I loved, sharp as a razor. However, 24mm is now pretty darn wide so I have been getting away with not really needing a superwide except in a few circumstances. But, wider would be nicer. Especially really wide ;D
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much better on this monitor.
yeah, I kind of took a liking to primes. Actually the only zoom I have is the 17-40. You'll love that lens! Next lens will probably be the 70-200 f/4.
When I went full frame, I sold my tokina 12-24 ATX f4. That lens I loved, sharp as a razor. However, 24mm is now pretty darn wide so I have been getting away with not really needing a superwide except in a few circumstances. But, wider would be nicer. Especially really wide ;D
Im guessing you still have the 10-22mm efs? hmm.. I cant remember if the efs lenses work on the full frame.. if so, that 10mm on the 5d must be *crazy* wide..
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Thinking of switching up my gearbag. I use a 5D and my current lens lineup is 50/1.4, 17-40/4L, 35/2, 70-200/2.8L. I am thinking of dropping the 35/2 as I rarely use it on the full frame body. I could drop others, depending on where I want to go with this.
Some possibilities:
1. 16-35/2.8L, 24-70/2.8L, and keep my 70-200/2.8L (no primes, but the 2.8 on the 5D should handle most indoor environments as well)
2. 24-105/4L IS, 100-400/4.5-5.6L IS, and maybe a 14/2.8L (slower lenses, but adds reach and IS)
3. 14/2.8L, keep the 35/2 and 50/1.4, add an 85/1.8 and keep the 70-200/2.8L (I tend to be bad at zooming "with my feet," but this would improve image quality and probably teach me to be a better photographer)
4. 17-40/4L, keep the 50/1.4, add an 85/1.8 and a 100-400/4.5-5.6L IS (zoom at the extremes, primes in the money range)
Any thoughts on the above or some other combination? I shoot nature/landscapes and urban scenes for artsy stuff and family/friend events for fun.
Definitely need to have a prime or three! You should check out he 85/1.2 - sick lens on the 5D from what I've seen. But you do have to pay the price. Sounds like the 17-40 should still work fine for what you're shooting. Could always add a 1.4x or 2x for longer reach on the 70-200.
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much better on this monitor.
yeah, I kind of took a liking to primes. Actually the only zoom I have is the 17-40. You'll love that lens! Next lens will probably be the 70-200 f/4.
When I went full frame, I sold my tokina 12-24 ATX f4. That lens I loved, sharp as a razor. However, 24mm is now pretty darn wide so I have been getting away with not really needing a superwide except in a few circumstances. But, wider would be nicer. Especially really wide ;D
Im guessing you still dont have the 10-22mm efs? hmm.. I cant remember if the efs lenses work on the full frame.. if so, that 10mm on the 5d must be *crazy* wide..
never had the 10-22. Only the 12-24. I didn't want the plastic feel of the canon ef-s so I went with the solid build of the 12-24. I was very impressed with that lens.
EF-S lenses only work on crop sensor back.
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Nice, cool shot. There's a natural bridge near Payson, AZ that we used to go to when we lived out there.
Do you have the raw, looks a little dark. Maybe it's just my monitor as I'm on my old linux box right now.
Prime fan here, 50, 85, 135 ;D
That would be the travertine bridge
(http://speshuled.smugmug.com/photos/244127938_5YCXQ-L.jpg)
see those white and yellow specs above the blown out rock in the bottom right portion of the photo, those are people. Sorry for the crappy photo, took it with a point and shoot and wasn't paying attention to any settings. I might be going back there this weekend actually, and taking my 20d with me this time.
As for the rocket and lens pen, got them both and both are great. Good cheap additions to the gear bag.
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hello. i shoot with a Canon EOS Rebel XTI, Canon EFS 18-55 mm Kit lens, Canon EF 70-300 mm, Tamron SP AF17-50mm f/2.8 XR, Canon Speedlite 430EX..
I love it. i shoot pictures of my children, sports and everything else i can.. "all the time" people that know me are pretty much sick of me taking pictures..
i just think its great..
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hello. i shoot with a Canon EOS Rebel XTI, Canon EFS 18-55 mm Kit lens, Canon EF 70-300 mm, Tamron SP AF17-50mm f/2.8 XR, Canon Speedlite 430EX..
I love it. i shoot pictures of my children, sports and everything else i can.. "all the time" people that know me are pretty much sick of me taking pictures..
i just think its great..
Welcome to TS.com! I hear (and see) great things from the tammy 17-50.
I'm on "UPS watch" today awaiting some PocketWizards ;D
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Definitely need to have a prime or three! You should check out he 85/1.2 - sick lens on the 5D from what I've seen. But you do have to pay the price. Sounds like the 17-40 should still work fine for what you're shooting. Could always add a 1.4x or 2x for longer reach on the 70-200.
I have the 1.4x, just forgot about it when I posted. That pretty much does cover me on the long end, as I only lose a stop and keep the full AF capabilities of the 5D. I can't afford the 85/1.2 without selling pretty much everything else. I'm fine with the 1.8 as a compromise, but I've never shot one. I hardly use the 35/2, so maybe I can swap that for the 85/1.8.
I do really need to focus on lighting at some point. That's the next thing that will make my pictures better, even with what I have now.
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2269/2641574205_747a61cf35_b.jpg)
:D shot my first concert.
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Looks like you're right up front. Lens/settings? Who/what is that? :o
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Looks like you're right up front. Lens/settings? Who/what is that? :o
that would be mr. robert smith...
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anyone help with the shutter button motor " sound" on the CANON 40D? taking pictures of certain kids the sound of the shutter being depressed actually makes them jerk a bit.
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anyone help with the shutter button motor " sound" on the CANON 40D? taking pictures of certain kids the sound of the shutter being depressed actually makes them jerk a bit.
Are you referring to "shutter slap?" If so, nothing you can do. That's a dslr for you. Some are quieter though than others. My 20d made a big ole "smack" sound when that mirror went up and down. My 5d seems to be a bit quieter. My ole xt was quieter. The d300 I played with over the 4th was much quieter than any of the canon's I have played with, though, I haven't shot the 40d nor the xti or xsi.
If there is a "beep", there should be an option in the menu settings.
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anyone help with the shutter button motor " sound" on the CANON 40D? taking pictures of certain kids the sound of the shutter being depressed actually makes them jerk a bit.
Are you referring to "shutter slap?" If so, nothing you can do. That's a dslr for you. Some are quieter though than others. My 20d made a big ole "smack" sound when that mirror went up and down. My 5d seems to be a bit quieter. My ole xt was quieter. The d300 I played with over the 4th was much quieter than any of the canon's I have played with, though, I haven't shot the 40d nor the xti or xsi.
If there is a "beep", there should be an option in the menu settings.
yeah it is the shutter slap, the " beep" i can manage, but with the 24-70L some tight shots i try the shutter makes such a noise as to trigger a response from some of the kids. The portraits are of kids with special needs and sometimes they tend to " jump" with the slightest of sound.
thank you for your reply
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no problem.
Somewhere, I forget exactly where, I saw a review of different model dslr's and the exact amount of db's that each camera's "shutter slap" exhibited. Maybe you can do some research and find that out, and with that info, find a quieter model canon.
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no problem.
Somewhere, I forget exactly where, I saw a review of different model dslr's and the exact amount of db's that each camera's "shutter slap" exhibited. Maybe you can do some research and find that out, and with that info, find a quieter model canon.
Yes, i am looking it up now. It will be interesting if i can find such a category of shutter slap db's.
I would really hope I dont need to go up from the 40d at this moment.
during some shoots I might try to bring up some background music so that the shutter slap is not so " startling" or " appear" so loud due to being so quiet ambiently
I really appreciate the advise
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anyone help with the shutter button motor " sound" on the CANON 40D? taking pictures of certain kids the sound of the shutter being depressed actually makes them jerk a bit.
Yes, you can use the quiet mode option when using Live View. Can come in handy when taking shots in quiet places. Keep the shutter button pressed for as long as you want, when you release it, that's when you hear the sound. But you'll only hear a faint click when taking the actual shot.
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anyone help with the shutter button motor " sound" on the CANON 40D? taking pictures of certain kids the sound of the shutter being depressed actually makes them jerk a bit.
Yes, you can use the quiet mode option when using Live View. Can come in handy when taking shots in quiet places. Keep the shutter button pressed for as long as you want, when you release it, that's when you hear the sound. But you'll only hear a faint click when taking the actual shot.
does the flash work with live view? does live view work with AE? sometimes I use auto, d'oh I guess i can just try it
thanks
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I don't know if doing a search for shutter slap will help but maybe a search with some similar buzz words will exhibit something. I actually think it was a link from here that I followed and read a year or so ago.
Good luck with your search :)
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I don't know if doing a search for shutter slap will help but maybe a search with some similar buzz words will exhibit something. I actually think it was a link from here that I followed and read a year or so ago.
Good luck with your search :)
Me too, i thought I remembered something about the sound of the shutter on certain cameras. Maybe its on B and H written reviews of pro's and con's of the different cameras. I check there also
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using 24-70 lens when i am at 24 and using the lens hood i get shadows from the hood.
anyone else
I like using the lens hood for protection LOL
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using 24-70 lens when i am at 24 and using the lens hood i get shadows from the hood.
anyone else
I like using the lens hood for protection LOL
Huh. Surprised on a crop sensor body you are.
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using 24-70 lens when i am at 24 and using the lens hood i get shadows from the hood.
anyone else
I like using the lens hood for protection LOL
I'm guessing you're seeing this when using the pop-up flash? You'll get this when using the wide end of the lens, not uncommon, especially with the flash so close to the body. Pick up a speedlight, i.e. 430ex, 580ex, something like that and you won't have issues.
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does the Nikon d300 or i think its the d200 do they have a loud shutter slap?
this 40 d is really bugging me, or should i say the subjects are really jumpy to the sound and flash.
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The shutter sound is inevidable, but if you can deal with a beep, the shutter is no big deal.
The noise that is making your subjects jump and is probably not the shutter. Once the shutter is pressed, save for blinking, few things will ruin the picture. People can't really react that quick, might ruin the second picture but not the first.
The noise which is probably setting them off is your autofocus motor! That noise will. Simple solution, manual focus your lenses! No need for a new camera...
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The shutter sound is inevidable, but if you can deal with a beep, the shutter is no big deal.
The noise that is making your subjects jump and is probably not the shutter. Once the shutter is pressed, save for blinking, few things will ruin the picture. People can't really react that quick, might ruin the second picture but not the first.
The noise which is probably setting them off is your autofocus motor! That noise will. Simple solution, manual focus your lenses! No need for a new camera...
When you are dealing with children with cerebral palsy and autism they possess very fast tendon reflexes which actually make them more ' jumpy" then the average folk. And it is the sound of the shutter that make them jump. I also have a point and shoot canon S5IS which is much quieter and they tend to jump much less. yes these kids are that quick and then the anticipation on top of that. Anxiety is held in the body and represents itself as upper motor neuron jerky movements due to sensitivity to sound. The autofocus is relatively quiet. its when i engage the shutter all the way and the kids tend to jump
help me
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faster shutter speed. Boost the iso. No one can out jump 1/200th or more of shutter speed.
Other than that, maybe go rent a couple different models from a local camera shop. Maybe some different canon makes and models and some nikons. Or, maybe they even have some demos you can test out, to find out which model is quietest.
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The shutter sound is inevidable, but if you can deal with a beep, the shutter is no big deal.
The noise that is making your subjects jump and is probably not the shutter. Once the shutter is pressed, save for blinking, few things will ruin the picture. People can't really react that quick, might ruin the second picture but not the first.
The noise which is probably setting them off is your autofocus motor! That noise will. Simple solution, manual focus your lenses! No need for a new camera...
and the kids tend to jump
help me
use a point and shoot camera? Im pretty sure most of the smaller pocket camera have an option to be completely silent while shooting..
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The shutter sound is inevidable, but if you can deal with a beep, the shutter is no big deal.
The noise that is making your subjects jump and is probably not the shutter. Once the shutter is pressed, save for blinking, few things will ruin the picture. People can't really react that quick, might ruin the second picture but not the first.
The noise which is probably setting them off is your autofocus motor! That noise will. Simple solution, manual focus your lenses! No need for a new camera...
and the kids tend to jump
help me
use a point and shoot camera? Im pretty sure most of the smaller pocket camera have an option to be completely silent while shooting..
that is the inference is was making--that the p + s is quieter than the 40D. The 40D is significantly louder and tends to make my subjects jump due to the sound. read the thread from the las few exchanges and you will see that the 40D dslr shutter slap is significant and does make certain subjects that are hypersensitive to sound " jump"
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This goes beyond Canon SLR's as I'm sure you're discovering. They "ALL" make noise. And as I stated above, the 40D has a "somewhat" silent operation in Live View. Have you tried that out? Have you looked into off-camera flash?
Still not sure what you're expecting to find out there. A silent DSLR camera? The sound may vary across different models, but it's still there. The 40D is a great camera and I hope you can find a way to make it work for your needs.
What are you finding out there in the dedicated "photography" forums? I'm sure you'll get a more varied response.
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When you are dealing with children with cerebral palsy and autism they possess very fast tendon reflexes which actually make them more ' jumpy" then the average folk. And it is the sound of the shutter that make them jump. I also have a point and shoot canon S5IS which is much quieter and they tend to jump much less. yes these kids are that quick and then the anticipation on top of that. Anxiety is held in the body and represents itself as upper motor neuron jerky movements due to sensitivity to sound. The autofocus is relatively quiet. its when i engage the shutter all the way and the kids tend to jump
help me
Is it possible to mask the sound of the camera with background noise, perhaps a fan?
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When you are dealing with children with cerebral palsy and autism they possess very fast tendon reflexes which actually make them more ' jumpy" then the average folk. And it is the sound of the shutter that make them jump. I also have a point and shoot canon S5IS which is much quieter and they tend to jump much less. yes these kids are that quick and then the anticipation on top of that. Anxiety is held in the body and represents itself as upper motor neuron jerky movements due to sensitivity to sound. The autofocus is relatively quiet. its when i engage the shutter all the way and the kids tend to jump
help me
Is it possible to mask the sound of the camera with background noise, perhaps a fan?
...or music? :D
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When you are dealing with children with cerebral palsy and autism they possess very fast tendon reflexes which actually make them more ' jumpy" then the average folk. And it is the sound of the shutter that make them jump. I also have a point and shoot canon S5IS which is much quieter and they tend to jump much less. yes these kids are that quick and then the anticipation on top of that. Anxiety is held in the body and represents itself as upper motor neuron jerky movements due to sensitivity to sound. The autofocus is relatively quiet. its when i engage the shutter all the way and the kids tend to jump
help me
Is it possible to mask the sound of the camera with background noise, perhaps a fan?
...or music? :D
I thought music might be as distracting as a camera shutter, but white noise...
Besides, who listens to music? ;D
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When you are dealing with children with cerebral palsy and autism they possess very fast tendon reflexes which actually make them more ' jumpy" then the average folk. And it is the sound of the shutter that make them jump. I also have a point and shoot canon S5IS which is much quieter and they tend to jump much less. yes these kids are that quick and then the anticipation on top of that. Anxiety is held in the body and represents itself as upper motor neuron jerky movements due to sensitivity to sound. The autofocus is relatively quiet. its when i engage the shutter all the way and the kids tend to jump
help me
Is it possible to mask the sound of the camera with background noise, perhaps a fan?
...or music? :D
I thought music might be as distracting as a camera shutter, but white noise...
Besides, who listens to music? ;D
that is what i am trying now, is the music. Just some background music lightly so the shutter does not appear as " suprising" sound when the picture is taken. You would not believe how supersensitive some of the kids are. so the music is not distracting it works by making the shutter NOt appear so loud or shocking as there is more ambient sound in the room
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If that's the case then a Point and Shoot is what you should be looking for. A Canon G9 is an excellent one.
The only truly silent cameras with a shutter are rangefinders since they have a different type, cloth rather than a mirror. If you wanted to go into film you can pick one up rather cheap, however with digital there are only two options and the cheapest is about $2200 without a lens.
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I was gonna suggest music too, or even talking through the snap to try to take their minds off of it.
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I was gonna suggest music too, or even talking through the snap to try to take their minds off of it.
Yeah, that is what i am trying now. Also if i take my face away from the back of the camera and kinda say hello quietly it kind of gets their " mind" off of the anticipation of the shot, although i have to make sure i am really steady with my hand to get a good shot--just more practice
thank you for the advice, it is well received
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I was gonna suggest music too, or even talking through the snap to try to take their minds off of it.
Yeah, that is what i am trying now. Also if i take my face away from the back of the camera and kinda say hello quietly it kind of gets their " mind" off of the anticipation of the shot, although i have to make sure i am really steady with my hand to get a good shot--just more practice
thank you for the advice, it is well received
tripod and timer!!!
sounds like very interesting and challenging work, I'm a little envious!
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I was thinking what you were thinking, a timer, or even wireless remote, I know focus might be an issue but i can just fill up the CF card and see what i get.
i also may go to the 70-200IS lens so i can step back a little further.
It really amazes me how sensitive some of the kids are. Now its anticipation from some of the kids. I mean its not like i am right in their face. some of there " little" movements are so fast--it really is like sport shooting.
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im telling you, you are going to kick yourself most likely if you buy on fleabay for this stuff, its worth paying a touch more over at fm and getting something you know is going to be good.
Buying anything on ebay does, of course, entail some level of risk, but I wouldn't be overly worried or skeptical necessarily. I recently bought a Canon 40D w/28-135mm lens on ebay during the cashback savings (for a total of $900) from a seemingly reputable seller, and everything was good as described. I would just make sure when buying on ebay to check out their feedback, especially regarding similar items, read carefully the description of b-stock, refurb, warranty, etc., and buy with paypal using a credit card. You're pretty safe then even if you got something not as described. Love my 40d, at least so far. 8)
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Finally getting around to uploading a couple of shots taken with my 30D and Tamron lenses. The first is with the 17-50mm and the second is with the 70-200mm.
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Shane, fabulous shots!
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Shane, fabulous shots!
Thanks Jon.
I wish the fireworks smoke would have been blowing away from the camera instead of right to left, but it is what it is.
+T
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backatcha buddy. Fireworks shots are fun
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backatcha buddy. Fireworks shots are fun
Here is the shot that I was discussing in the PM. I'm going to approach a few of those home owners to see if they would be interested in purchasing a print. A couple of those places are million dollar homes, so they would probably be interested in a $75-$100 large print to have matted & framed.
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Nice!
Selling art of local stuff (like that) to the 2nd home owners is an easy mark. I know, I do it all the time ;D
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backatcha buddy. Fireworks shots are fun
Here is the shot that I was discussing in the PM. I'm going to approach a few of those home owners to see if they would be interested in purchasing a print. A couple of those places are million dollar homes, so they would probably be interested in a $75-$100 large print to have matted & framed.
A really good matte + frame job for an 8x10 can easily run that much. I've spent $300 on those before. The results were as jaw-dropping as the images themselves.
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backatcha buddy. Fireworks shots are fun
Here is the shot that I was discussing in the PM. I'm going to approach a few of those home owners to see if they would be interested in purchasing a print. A couple of those places are million dollar homes, so they would probably be interested in a $75-$100 large print to have matted & framed.
A really good matte + frame job for an 8x10 can easily run that much. I've spent $300 on those before. The results were as jaw-dropping as the images themselves.
I plan on attempting to sell a few of the prints themselves. There are too many unknown variables (i.e. wall colors, personal tastes in frame styles/finishes, etc.) for me to attempt to have them matted & framed prior to approaching potential buyers, and I'm not really interested in doing it at a mark-up after I have received their input.
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What print companies does everyone use?
And what is the process is doing so?
do you if you wanted to is touch up the photo before bringing it to a print company?
Also in what format do you bring it to a print company?
the reason i as is that i have used my own printer but that is really not the most economical,
So i do not know the first thing to ordering my own prints?
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What print companies does everyone use?
And what is the process is doing so?
do you if you wanted to is touch up the photo before bringing it to a print company?
Also in what format do you bring it to a print company?
the reason i as is that i have used my own printer but that is really not the most economical,
So i do not know the first thing to ordering my own prints?
http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,101315.0.html (http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,101315.0.html)
I just used MPix for some important wedding shots, and was very pleased. I uploaded the files to their site late Tuesday evening and had the package on my door step yesterday evening (1 day fedex). I also ordered a couple of 12"x18" prints that were pretty stunning. Just for kicks, I have ordered a couple of the same 12"x18" prints from wal-marts online lab so I can compare the quality between the two.
To answer your specific questions: I uploaded the full size jpeg images to MPix's website and made the print size & quantity selections. I did get the 'color correction' offered, but I didn't do any post editing (other than cropping). If you do any post editing, just upload the finished product and don't select 'color correction' (color correction is only offered for certain size prints, BTW). You can also crop photos using their software once you have them uploaded if you choose to do so.
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What print companies does everyone use?
And what is the process is doing so?
do you if you wanted to is touch up the photo before bringing it to a print company?
Also in what format do you bring it to a print company?
the reason i as is that i have used my own printer but that is really not the most economical,
So i do not know the first thing to ordering my own prints?
http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,101315.0.html (http://taperssection.com/index.php/topic,101315.0.html)
I just used MPix for some important wedding shots, and was very pleased. I uploaded the files to their site late Tuesday evening and had the package on my door step yesterday evening (1 day fedex). I also ordered a couple of 12"x18" prints that were pretty stunning. Just for kicks, I have ordered a couple of the same 12"x18" prints from wal-marts online lab so I can compare the quality between the two.
To answer your specific questions: I uploaded the full size jpeg images to MPix's website and made the print size & quantity selections. I did get the 'color correction' offered, but I didn't do any post editing (other than cropping). If you do any post editing, just upload the finished product and don't select 'color correction' (color correction is only offered for certain size prints, BTW). You can also crop photos using their software once you have them uploaded if you choose to do so.
I havent priced out printing services.. so I dont know if MPix is reasonable compared to others.. but for those who dont want to look into it.. here is MPix pricing..
(http://www.mpix.com/Images/productinfo/MpixProducts_11.gif)
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I havent priced out printing services.. so I dont know if MPix is reasonable compared to others.. but for those who dont want to look into it.. here is MPix pricing..
(http://www.mpix.com/Images/productinfo/MpixProducts_11.gif)
Just to add:
3.5"x5, 4"x5" & 4"x6" prints can be purchased for .19/each if you don't want the color correction feature.
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shane, 95% of what I sale is already framed and matted. I take a simple approach and the feedback has always been positive. Simple white matte, black wooden frame. It bumps my return way up. Keeps the hassle down for the buyer. If they want a print without a frame, I will order for them. It happens, but rarely.
Secret ts scoop, dollar general has black frames with white matte (8x10) with glass for $6. Wall Mart has white shadow matte (11x14) with 14 x 16 black frames for just under $20. They look great and I have gotten fantastic compliments from the galleries and the customers. Shhhhhhhh, don't tell anyone :-X ;D
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Are they mostly B&W photos in those frames you sell?
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Are they mostly B&W photos in those frames you sell?
nope. about half color, half b&w
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Wow - haven't stopped by in forever and here's my thread running off the board! It's the little things in life... ;)
As an update to my own digicam situation: LOVE LOVE LOVE my Rebel xt. Yes, I want to upgrade at some point (40d would be nice, thankyousomuch) and I've been
gradually adding new glass so I now have:
XT
28-105 USM
50 1.8 (gotta love that little guy!)
70-200 EF (my old zoom, but still good if you've got plenty of light and/or a tripod)
and today thanks to Adorama's AWESOME shipping which turned up 3 days earlier than expected:
ef-s 55-250 IS.
No samples yet - once I get out there and shoot some decent stuff, I"ll post if anybody's interested, since this lens is fairly new on the scene. But folks, I'm here to tell you that the positive reviews on that baby are the ones to believe - sharp, sharp, sharp and the IS seems to work nicely. AF hunts a little if there isn't oodles of light (but it's a slowish lens, so to be expected) but it's lightweight, has a great reach and the test snaps I took were ridiculously good. (And now y'all know why I'm selling my CMC8's.... gotta pay for this stuff somehow!). If you've been considering it, it's worth it IMO!
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anyone use protection filters for their " L" series lenses?
and if so, please point me in the right direction>
please advise
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I always keep a UV filter on my lenses. I like the B&W and Hoya brands.
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Took a trip through the Safari at Great Adventure last weekend with my two nephews..
Kingda Ka roller coaster.. Six Flags Great Adventure, Jackson, NJ
the Canon 10-22mm EFS
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/safari%20--%20august%202008/IMG_7214.jpg)
the Canon 100mm F/2
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/safari%20--%20august%202008/IMG_7146.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/safari%20--%20august%202008/IMG_7010.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/safari%20--%20august%202008/IMG_6973.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/safari%20--%20august%202008/IMG_7125.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/safari%20--%20august%202008/IMG_6908.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ericBowne/safari%20--%20august%202008/IMG_6815.jpg)
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I always keep a UV filter on my lenses. I like the B&W and Hoya brands.
thank you
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anyone use protection filters for their " L" series lenses?
and if so, please point me in the right direction>
please advise
You'll find plenty of debate on this elsewhere. Seems kind of split from what I've seen. I don't use filters on any my lenses. Why degrade performance with yet another layer of glass when you've already shelled out for an L-series lens? I do like to keep the hoods on for protection whenever possible.
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What kind of bags do people use to keep there photo gear at the ready?
I have the 40D
battery grip
580ex flash
battery pack for flash
24-70 L
70-200 L
14-24 L
3 lens hoods
other accessories
How does one place the camera in their bag?
Do you keep the lens on?
if storing lenses in the bag, do you put them vertical?
how do you keep the lenses in the bag?
what bag fits all this stuff
any suggestions
i use 2 bags right now
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here are a couple rhodendron shots from a camping/backpacking trip I took in June. Love shooting flowers!
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11pm last night, iso 1250, 30 sec exposure, f14 sigma 24-70 ex dg f2.8
The (mostly) original with minimal processing. Surreal looking.
numero dos with fluorescent white balance and bit more processing.
Rough and dirty but gives you an idea of the fun that can be had with night time long exposures. Need to try this at a lower iso with maybe a 5min exposure. The first one, as shot, is rather otheworldly. It seems like daytime (it's not) but yet not quite right colors. Weird. I like.
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anyone remember pinhole photography, using an Oatmeal container--all day exposures? that was in 7th grade- awesome
nice pics
i am still looking for a camera bag
40d
16-35 L
24-70 L
70-200 L
hoods
battery grip--attached
580 ex flash
battery pack for flash
cleaning stuff
filters
i would imagine i could leave the 70-200 lens attached to body with battery grip in the " new" bag
i am not a fan of backpack style
please advise
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anyone remember pinhole photography, using an Oatmeal container--all day exposures? that was in 7th grade- awesome
nice pics
i am still looking for a camera bag
40d
16-35 L
24-70 L
70-200 L
hoods
battery grip--attached
580 ex flash
battery pack for flash
cleaning stuff
filters
i would imagine i could leave the 70-200 lens attached to body with battery grip in the " new" bag
i am not a fan of backpack style
please advise
I've played around with the pinhole technique. You can do the job in post in cs3. Lots of cools stuff. I think the winter's edition of pro photographer mag had a good article on it.
I've bought one of those amvona back pack cam bags on ebay. Maybe 35-50 bucks. Bag is huge. You can carry all your lenses plus some, laptop and your tripod. Still have a nova3 I'm letting my dad use, a nova 5 in semi retirement and a small lowepro back pack bag I may let go of.
ooops, saw your not a fan of backpack. Get a lowpro nova 5
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anyone remember pinhole photography, using an Oatmeal container--all day exposures? that was in 7th grade- awesome
nice pics
i am still looking for a camera bag
40d
16-35 L
24-70 L
70-200 L
hoods
battery grip--attached
580 ex flash
battery pack for flash
cleaning stuff
filters
i would imagine i could leave the 70-200 lens attached to body with battery grip in the " new" bag
i am not a fan of backpack style
please advise
You may want to bring your gear to try it, but I think my bag, the Domke F-3x would fit every requirement but having the 70-200 attached.... that might not work, but it might. I keep a Nikon D300 with a grip with the 17-55mm attached, the 70-200, and room for another 70-200 size lens, plus two side pockets for flashes etc.
http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=287
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anyone remember pinhole photography, using an Oatmeal container--all day exposures? that was in 7th grade- awesome
nice pics
i am still looking for a camera bag
40d
16-35 L
24-70 L
70-200 L
hoods
battery grip--attached
580 ex flash
battery pack for flash
cleaning stuff
filters
i would imagine i could leave the 70-200 lens attached to body with battery grip in the " new" bag
i am not a fan of backpack style
please advise
You may want to bring your gear to try it, but I think my bag, the Domke F-3x would fit every requirement but having the 70-200 attached.... that might not work, but it might. I keep a Nikon D300 with a grip with the 17-55mm attached, the 70-200, and room for another 70-200 size lens, plus two side pockets for flashes etc.
http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=287
thank you, yeah its not totally necessary that i leave te 70=200 attached, i just see that many do that but i can always leave a different lens attached. I probably use my wide angle more, so maybe i can leave that attached.
i just dont know how to position the camera in a bag with the battery grip and lens attached, meaning i dont know if the camera should be vertical or horizontal, the lens pointing up form the camera or horizontal?
any suggestions?
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Camera orientation isn't important. I keep mine facing down with the screen pointing up when I open the bag.
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Camera orientation isn't important. I keep mine facing down with the screen pointing up when I open the bag.
is it facing down with a lens attached or is that without a lens attached.
thanks for the help on these tiny matters
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I leave it facing down with the lens attached, so the weight rests on the lens cap/hood.
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I leave it facing down with the lens attached, so the weight rests on the lens cap/hood.
I looked at the Tamrac 5585 bag. I did not bring my equip. so i might go back tomorrow.
now it is a backpack style which after looking at several i have come to like them.
With that said, I can leave the lens attached with it facing down in a backpack style bag since the depth is deeper.
lmk what anyone thinks?
thanks
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Few shots from a trip to DC this weekend.
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As for bags - I use a Quantaray U100... holds my 30D, 70-200 2.8 IS, 17-55 2.8 IS, 1.4 and 2.0 extenders, tamron 28-75 2.8 430ex flash and bunch of little junk.
Jeff
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tuckerton, NJ.. the canon 10-22mm efs
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3185/2878419512_1139666ef8_b.jpg)
sunset from the surf city bay beach, surf city, nj
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3073/2878403752_1f0d49dcfd_b.jpg)
Barnegat Lighthouse, Barnegat Light NJ.. the Canon 100mm f/2
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3052/2877570571_3f5bbdf5a0_b.jpg)
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beautiful landscapes
love the first one
I'm jealous of the beautiful scenery you have to shoot.
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One of mine from NH. 5D + 17-40/4L
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One of mine from NH. 5D + 17-40/4L
Very swirlly, Nice shot Matt.
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Here is one from this summer. I love this shot! My wallpaper.
(http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s348/stirinthesauce/IMG_8947_finish_resize.jpg)
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i took this out of the window of my work van the other week in Boulder.
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from a walk thru the park today....
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3144/2995199859_9814b36e8e_b.jpg)
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Hi y'all! At the suggestion of Eric B, I'm going to lock this and start a new thread. Who knew that my "just starting to research" thread would grow to this kind of a monster?! :)