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Gear / Technical Help => TS Knowledge Base / Archive => Microphones & Setup => Topic started by: RebelRebel on June 08, 2006, 06:54:16 AM
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http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0148071
Fastenal Co.
Part # 0148071
1/4-28x7/8 COUPL Z
0152183 sku number on rod
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Teddy,
May I ask what mod this is for? The bar extension to run LD's vertically?
I ask, because I just got one of these (why I waited so long, I'll never understand now that I have it, I barely touch my AKG bar) and I LOVE IT. But with the R4, I've been running a 3rd and 4th mic a lot, and I was thinking it'd be totally freakin' awesome if the top of the vert bar had a 5/8" threaded socket on top. Then, it'd be SOOOOOOO easy to slap an extra omni on top and spread my stereo pair wider at times (or even use hypers). Would this part help me do that?
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I was thinking it'd be totally freakin' awesome if the top of the vert bar had a 5/8" threaded socket on top. Then, it'd be SOOOOOOO easy to slap an extra omni on top and spread my stereo pair wider at times (or even use hypers).
A clamp will accomplish the same result, though not as integrated (which IMO will make it easier to set up than if it were fully integrated).
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I was thinking it'd be totally freakin' awesome if the top of the vert bar had a 5/8" threaded socket on top. Then, it'd be SOOOOOOO easy to slap an extra omni on top and spread my stereo pair wider at times (or even use hypers).
A clamp will accomplish the same result, though not as integrated (which IMO will make it easier to set up than if it were fully integrated).
Yup, using a clamp right now to do this, or sometimes I'm screwing the vert bar into the middle of the AKG Bar. That second approach is a little more hassle, but makes for all sorts of combos, including the ability to do some really good mic comparisons (two sets of mics in xy or din stacked right on top of each other and running into same recorder/pre/etc [R4]). BUT, I beg to differ on the integration front. If there was a screw on the top of the vert bar, all i'd had to do is screw on another mic clip and I'm done. What's harder about that? That would be so easy it wouldn't even be funny (easier than busting out a clamp IMHO). I've been leaving my shockmounts on the vert bar lately, which is making setups even faster, and if I could just slap on one more mic on top by screwing in another shockmount, I'd be lovin' that. :)
Anyway, I still don't know what this part is for? It's a coupler as far as I can tell. Can I use this as the "top screw" on the vert bar such that with the proper adapters (1/4" male to 5/8" male I think), I could end up with a 5/8" mic thread on top? Then, I could have a three mic config with one simple attachment (the vert bar) setup within a couple of minutes easy.
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If there was a screw on the top of the vert bar, all i'd had to do is screw on another mic clip and I'm done. What's harder about that?
I think it's harder because your center mic orientation is directly linked to your stereo pair orientation. Adjusting one via the A27M "top screw" (now the center mic mount) impacts the other(s). So in the process of aligning the stereo pair, you also have to align the center mic at the same time. With a clamp, you have independent control over the center mic v. the stereo pair, and vice versa. Just my opinion / preference based on my own experiences. $0.02
And sorry, I'm not familiar with the hex coupling nut.
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Yes, it is a reversible mod for the shure vert bar that allows LDC mics to be run in blumlein/M-S , etc.. the threaded rod and coupler simply extend the length of the included bar to provide extra vertical clearance..
Teddy,
May I ask what mod this is for? The bar extension to run LD's vertically?
I ask, because I just got one of these (why I waited so long, I'll never understand now that I have it, I barely touch my AKG bar) and I LOVE IT. But with the R4, I've been running a 3rd and 4th mic a lot, and I was thinking it'd be totally freakin' awesome if the top of the vert bar had a 5/8" threaded socket on top. Then, it'd be SOOOOOOO easy to slap an extra omni on top and spread my stereo pair wider at times (or even use hypers). Would this part help me do that?
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If there was a screw on the top of the vert bar, all i'd had to do is screw on another mic clip and I'm done. What's harder about that?
I think it's harder because your center mic orientation is directly linked to your stereo pair orientation. Adjusting one via the A27M "top screw" (now the center mic mount) impacts the other(s). So in the process of aligning the stereo pair, you also have to align the center mic at the same time. With a clamp, you have independent control over the center mic v. the stereo pair, and vice versa. Just my opinion / preference based on my own experiences. $0.02
And sorry, I'm not familiar with the hex coupling nut.
Alright, I see your point now. I'll buy that. Plus it looks like I couldn't use this to do that anyway. :(
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You could have Wbrissette build you a special bar..he built one for me. meter bar with an additional mounting post in the middle.
If there was a screw on the top of the vert bar, all i'd had to do is screw on another mic clip and I'm done. What's harder about that?
I think it's harder because your center mic orientation is directly linked to your stereo pair orientation. Adjusting one via the A27M "top screw" (now the center mic mount) impacts the other(s). So in the process of aligning the stereo pair, you also have to align the center mic at the same time. With a clamp, you have independent control over the center mic v. the stereo pair, and vice versa. Just my opinion / preference based on my own experiences. $0.02
And sorry, I'm not familiar with the hex coupling nut.
Alright, I see your point now. I'll buy that. Plus it looks like I couldn't use this to do that anyway. :(
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I was thinking it'd be totally freakin' awesome if the top of the vert bar had a 5/8" threaded socket on top. Then, it'd be SOOOOOOO easy to slap an extra omni on top and spread my stereo pair wider at times (or even use hypers).
You could use the following to accomplish the goal above.
1/4"-20 / 3/8"-16 coupling nut
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=37841
Simply use this to screw onto the top of the Shure A27M bar in place of the finished cap.
3/8"-16 threaded stud
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0121487
Add this to the coupling nut above so it sticks out the top of the coupler.
Then simply add one of the standard 3/8"-16 female > 5/8"-27 thread adapters (available at B&H and other places) and you're ready to attach your mic clip, shockmount, etc. You may need to cut down the 3/8"-16 threaded stud so it doesn't protrude out the top of the 5/8 adapter.
Scratch all that, I got my thread specs confused. The first part needs to be a 1/4-28 thread, not 20. Doesn't look like Fastenal carries that part. Rats.
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I was thinking it'd be totally freakin' awesome if the top of the vert bar had a 5/8" threaded socket on top. Then, it'd be SOOOOOOO easy to slap an extra omni on top and spread my stereo pair wider at times (or even use hypers).
You could use the following to accomplish the goal above.
1/4"-20 / 3/8"-16 coupling nut
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=37841
Simply use this to screw onto the top of the Shure A27M bar in place of the finished cap.
3/8"-16 threaded stud
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0121487
Add this to the coupling nut above so it sticks out the top of the coupler.
Then simply add one of the standard 3/8"-16 female > 5/8"-27 thread adapters (available at B&H and other places) and you're ready to attach your mic clip, shockmount, etc. You may need to cut down the 3/8"-16 threaded stud so it doesn't protrude out the top of the 5/8 adapter.
Thanks! That's freakin' sweet. I might just try that! Give me a few weeks and I'll report back with photos...
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problem,... its a 1/4-28 thread pitch (fine)
(1/4-20 is coarse)
I misread the spec. Doh!
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For those who are more visually inclined, see attached pics.
- modA27M_01.jpg - from R to L: a27m, threaded rod (SKU 0152183), threaded coupler (SKU 0148071), and 0.5" diameter PVC piping cut to fit
- modA27M_02.jpg - from R to L: a27m threaded mic mount rods (dismantled), a27m base + threaded coupler + threaded rod + stock threaded cap, and 0.5" diameter PVC piping cut to fit
- modA27M_03.jpg - from R to L: a27m threaded mic mounts, mod-a27m with long-cut PVC in place so I don't need the a27m threaded mounts (I clamp my shockmounts to the bar so I can run them closer to the bar to minimize horizontal sag and instability)
- modA27M_04.jpg - from R to L: mod-a27m with short-cut PVC in place and using the a27m threaded mic mount rods
Real easy. Just:
<1> measure how much additional space you need
<2> cut the PVC pipe according to the measurement (used my bro-in-law's table saw)
<3> cut the threaded rod according to the measurement (hacksaw will do nicely; thread the coupling nut on first, and then unscrew the nut over the cut end of the threaded rodto smooth out any jagged edges in the threads due to sawing)
<4> slap it all together
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What diameter PVC tubing are you using for this?
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this is exactly what i need to do, thanks a million.
You jedi rock! +T