Topic: DIY Chopper RA XLR's help..

[Jimna]

ive done all the chopping and am ready to solder them up.  before i get started i need epoxy to fill them, can anyone point me in the right direction of where to find some?  also how much will i need if im planning to do 10 connectors?

[Nick's Picks]

in place of epoxy (which any hardware store has.  just get the clear stuff) use "gas tank repair" putty.  sometimes sold as water seal.
Its an epoxy based putty.  it has two layers.  when mixed up (by rolling in a ball like play dough) it becomes a ROCK and works really kick ass.  Plus, you can mold it how you want, if needed.
It costs about the same as epoxy liquid as well.

again, any hardware store, automotive, walmart...etc

Liquid epoxy is a real PITA to work with.  its messy as hell.  Plus, it seeps into the female XLR and locks the little tab...rendering it useless.
that is where the putty really works best. 
Because you can mold it, you can make sort of a rim and "cup" which you can then fill with liquid rubber.  Also found in hardware stores to coat tools and stuff.  DIP GRIP or something like that.  Ask, they'll have it.

[Nick's Picks]

I havnen't tried that stuff.  the gas tank repair putty cures in minutes.  I like that.
plus, take a heat gun to it and it turns back to mush.  handy..in case you need to get back in there for whatever reason

[Jimna]

thanks fellas.

[bluegrass_brad]

I actually prefer the liquid epoxy.  if you use tape as a mold so that it fills up the connector over the actual shaved top of the connector.  Fill the connector with epoxy all the way up to the edge of the little dam. When it sets up you can easily use a file and shave them down so they look really nice after the epoxy sets up. I've done a few this way.  Works great and is super durable.

[Jimna]

I actually prefer the liquid epoxy.  if you use tape as a mold so that it fills up the connector over the actual shaved top of the connector.  Fill the connector with epoxy all the way up to the edge of the little dam. When it sets up you can easily use a file and shave them down so they look really nice after the epoxy sets up. I've done a few this way.  Works great and is super durable.

wow, nice work!!  im am so stealing that idea.  so what do you do to stop the epoxy from running into the female connector springs?

[bluegrass_brad]

I put on a small amount of silicone (with a Q-Tip)for a release so the epoxy wont stick to it.  Then cover with a very small piece of electrical tape. Also let the epoxy set up a little before you put it into the connector so it's not as runny.  I use toothpicks for this type of stuff.  It's an easy way to stir the epoxy to mix and  get the air bubbles out and also direct it around while pouring.

*edit to add* make sure you only put the silicone on the tiny area of the spring, not any where else or it can affect the epoxy adhesion,

[Nick's Picks]

using the XX series is *key* to a nice looking product, imo.
the regular cheap neutriks you have to cut the threads off.  thats when things start to get messy.
w/the XX's, you dont.  the thread are internal..which also helps hold the epoxy/jbweld/putty in place.

but then again..., mine are NOT PRETTY.  unless I use those XX's.  then they come out nice.

[bluegrass_brad]

then fill with liquid rubber.  Also found in hardware stores to coat tools and stuff.  DIP GRIP or something like that.  Ask, they'll have it.

Plastisol. Good stuff.  I made Todd French some cables and coated the epoxy with the spray on plastisol, after taping up the metal so it wouldnt get on it.  It looked great.

[Nick's Picks]

yup.  been there...done that.
qft !

[Jimna]

im hitting the hardware store tomorrow, might have my own "Phatman Silver Shorty RA's" tomorrow night.

if this goes well im gonna retrofit all my previous cables also.




thanks again for all the help.  once agian when i copy TS.comers home work i get good grades.

//rides the coat tails out of sight

[esteyes]

as Nick said PITA using liquid epoxy... but using the moldable stuff it is hard to get it in and around the 3 pin insert and make me confident it all will stay in place, plus you can't fix'em. HATE that. so i did it my way. completely rebuildable/serviceable. time consuming at the moment tho'

sorry for the giant pix. haven't learned to format them for the list. and yes these are the "cheapie" neutriks

shorty RA x2 on the left, then insulator, then regular Neutrik in the middle, prepped cable on the right - you might just be able to see swelling from the strain relief ferrule under the red heatshrink so you can't pull the cable out of the body. strain relief is pretty visible in the last pic.


original link: http://members.cox.net/esteyes/000_0121.jpg

side view: thingie on the left goes down inside the Neutrik body and secures the 3 pin connection from any movement. held in place by two grub screws.

original link: http://members.cox.net/esteyes/000_0124.jpg

closer view:

original link: http://members.cox.net/esteyes/000_0123.jpg

ready to solder Male end:

original link: http://members.cox.net/esteyes/000_0122.jpg

hope this all makes sense
nism

edit by Moke:
I reduced the pic size so that the whole image fits in the thread without the scrolling blue-bubble dealie.
I left the original links in place for detail.
thanks for posting the originals, Neil.

[shaggy]

Awesome, simply awesome. 

Sorry to be a pesk but are you gonna start making these for ts.com members?

[esteyes]

yes

[Gutbucket]

Nice work.  'Like the removable mystery cap.